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Tires wearing evenly and plenty of rubber left.
Any similar experience?
This weekend my wife accidently scraped a rock wall while backing up our '02 Highlander. No structural damage but there are scratches in the plastic that are too deep to buff out. Wondering if anyone has any suggestions about how this can be repaired without going to a professional. Like, is sanding and then painting an option? Any info is greatly appreciated because I've never owned a vehicle with this type of bumpers.
Ken
It is my feeling that these people got the car home and for some reason, maybe the spouse did not like it, are now looking for any reason to tear it down.
1. Rattle under the passenger side dash. It's a wiring harness rattling next to a fan control module...take a look under the passenger dash and cushion the wiring harnesses with foam or felt tape...rattle in our 02 highlander is gone.
2. Rattle in the roof area. The most common cause is a loose or missing roof rack nut. My 03 passat picked up a creaking noise in the sunroof went going over large bumps...fix...take a wax cande, open the roof, and wax the inner edge of the framing...where the sunroof seal meets the metal opening...creaking gone.
Best of luck. Try adjusting the seat. The possibilities are infinite.
If you find your HL seat as uncomfortable as you describe, then your only option probably is to sell it.
Below is one of the best articles that I've seen on how to purchase a new vehicle. It's a little late for your situation, but perhaps it will help next time around.
http://www.kbb.com/kb/ki.dll/ke.kb.sp?kbb.CA;;CA037&90210&- ;395&article_HowBuyNew;article
wwest - what is a RX300 seat and where do you get one?
Scanner, thank you for the information. I did all the things in the article, except I tried to go further and take the vehicle overnight or the weekend and was refused. The dealers in my area would not let me take for any length of time - just the route they set out. The problem with the seat did not show up in the 45 minutes it took me to test drive the vehicle and to sit in it, look everything over, etc. It did not show up until I had actually driven the vehicle for a considerable number of miles. This is the 12th vehicle I have purchased, but the only one I have had any problems with, except one had a couple of stone chips on the hood and it was immediately taken care of. Interestingly enough all my research, study, etc. did not do my any good in this instance.
You might be able to get both front seats inexpensively at a wrecking yard.
If still under warranty, bring your highlander to the dealer for the dash panel insert rattle. If out of warranty, go to your local auto parts store to browse a shop manual (mitchells, chiltons,..) to see how the insert panel attaches...if you don't want to bother, you can purchase high flow silicone(typically used for leaking auto glass)at your auto parts store, tape off the insert panel, carefully pry panel up just a bit, and flow in this thin silcone...this should take care of it....as for your rattle in the rear...have your buddy drive your car on the highways where you know the rattle occurs and locate the rattle...go from there.
I'm 6'0" and slouched down in my leather seat today to see what it might feel like for someone who's 5'7" and I could definitely see how the headrests can press into the back of the head and feel uncomfortable. I re-inserted the headrests backwards (they actually look ok this way, at least with the leather trim) and although this improved the situation it did not completely eliminate it.
I hate to see someone take the price hit of selling a brand new car, but save having someone custom engineer a new headrest or, alternatively, seat inserts, which, depending on who you get to do this, may cost more than the aforementioned price hit, I don't have any other ideas.
FYI: couple of days ago I saw on Ebay a salvage dealer in Texas selling entire leather Highlander interior including seats door panels headliner etc. for I think $600 or $900. Sorry can't remember the URL, but I found it searching with the word "Highlander" on Ebay search.
By the way I'm 5'7" and don't have problems with the headrest, but I don't have the best posture so my head may be more forward then average when seated, but I would prefer more lumbar support and longer thigh support.
My Highlander has less than 100 miles (just picked up on 2/14), and already have the "styroform rubbing together noise" from the right side of dash when going over even mild bumps at any speed, not loud but annoying.
No engines quitting while cruising down the road(Ford/Mazda); no rollover issues predominant(early Liberty); no major interior/suspension quality issues(Chev/GMC/Jeep GC)! Yes, any car can have problems, but the Highlander's repetitive issues have been really minimal - a good sign for long-term usage and resale value!
The real number of problems is much lower than total # of topics, as the reed/door seal noise(TSB), fuel injection tapping noise(normal in most newer FIs in the cold), wind noise with rear windows down(most new cars that are airtight have this problem)and recently the minor headrest issue have been discussed to death! Most of the other discussion boards are dealing with more serious drivability/safety issues that rear window noise(for example).
While it is not a heavy duty off-road monster, it excels in the type of driving that 95%++ of Americans perform! I am absolutely pleased with my electric green LTD, and I plan for it to service my family for many years to come! Dan White
I've been continually frustrated with no true map light in my 01 RX. Recently noticed that the one in the 97 Aerostar just might work.
It does.
Remove dome behind front seats, drill two new holes, wire it up to the existing connector and simply install. Dome function is normal and now you have individual map lights for driver and passenger.
Connector has two wires, 12 volt source and current sink to turn on and fade dome light. Ground return source is picked up from metal overhead, same as manual switch for OEM dome light.
Must be ordered in two parts from ford, light assembly and separately the lens.
Only real shortcoming is black housing which can probably be overcome with a can of almond spray paint.
Do you see any possible problem in doing what you have described with our 2001 & 2002 H/L's?
And yes... we own two of them.
Best Regards, Phil
Looks like I am going to be doing a little modifications to the H/L's.
Best Regards, Phil
But seriously though, lbird1, I think I've experienced the "bumpy ride" you speak of. I would describe it as busy or jiggly. It feels artificial like it's the tuning of the suspension. The only time I experience it is when riding over a quick series of ripples in the highway like those sometimes found at the end of off ramps created by years of hard braking. In my opinion there is only one real thing that you can do about it, and that is to get used to it. Another thing that helps a little is keeping a full fuel tank. The extra weight of the fuel helps smooth the ride a bit. Also, verify your tire pressure with a good quality gauge, not with one of those cheap pencil gauges or the ones found at the gas station air pump.
I had the dealer align it when I got it and that didn't fix it. went back a month later and made them do it again although they didn't want to and it made it less noticible for a month or so but now it is BACK.
at last trip to dealer, guy said it is 'normal' and that if it runs true for the distance between two telephone poles, it is alright. I am feeling like I have to exert constant pressure to the right to keep the thing running straignt and am frustrated.
suggestions?
ront
Switch the tires to the opposite sides they are now on and see if that changes anything. Probably won't change anything but you don't want to be looking hard for a problem when there is just a bad tire.
Follow the car on a smooth freeway in another vehicle. Take good long looks from all angles. Does it seem to be tracking straight and true? I had a Taurus that pulled like that and it ended up being the left rear tire having too much toe in, which tended to steer the car to the left. On the highway you could see that the car didn't track perfectly straight. Once that wheel was correctly aligned, not only did it quit pulling but it rode much smoother going over bumps and bridges since the dynamics of the wheels in motion weren't fighting each other.
I was referred to a specialist in Cincy but never went to him. He said: check the tire heights against each other. I also think it may be the loading (weight) on each spring being different causing a pull.
I agree with having a look at it tracking on the same roads you experience a pull. You probably can see the effect.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
is there any kind of service bulletin out that highlanders don't hold alignment??
thanks
ront
I don't think it's normal, but might be considered acceptable by some (not me), for a vehcle to pull left on a flat road with calm wind unless the vehicle is accelerating hard. Swapping tires from side to side as suggested in other post could determine if one of the tires are causing the pull. The factory tires are not the best even when not defective. Good luck.