Blizzard 5691,back in Dec.you had a post where you had the rear axle seals replaced due to noise. I don't have any noise that I can hear, but thought if it had been made a TSB I'd have it done. The Toyota dealer couldn't find any TSB,and had never heard of the problem. Their a bigger Toyota dealer where I bought the HL new in "01",and thought they would know of any on going problems with the HL's. Is yours a 4x4? Mine is a 4x2,don't know if there is any difference in axles. If anyone has any input would appreciate Thanks.
Strong hunch is that one of the tires has gone bad -- I had the same problem with another car some years back -- had the front-end aligned, but didn't affect the problem. A mechanic at a tire store said that almost for sure it was one of the tires, and to swap them from right to left to verify. After doing so the car pulled only slightly and to the other side -- after replacing the tires, problem never occurred again.
I never did find out if there was a TSB but, they are aware of this problem as it comes up constantly. Apparently the mechanic drove 4 Highlanders on their lot and they all had the problem. It is caused by an inner seal on the right rear wheel that doesn't go in enough. They have to replace the rear axle seals ( did both) and lubricate. Just lubricating the existing noisy ones won't do it as they tried it with mine and the noise eventually continued into highway speed. The part # was 90311-52005, quantity (2). Again, Toyota is aware of this and it is a design defect they can and will fix. By the way, I have the AWD. Does anyone still have the vibration behind the pass air bag? It is caused by a wiring harness that vibrates against the back of the dash. They put padding between mine and the dash 3x but, it came right back. Any advice? Also, did anyone try padding between the fuel line and firewall to deaden that tapping from the fuel injectors in cold weather? Thanks, Bill
I just looked at the report of dash vibration. To be more specific, it states they repositioned and padded the ECU Bracket which was contacting the heater box.
Thanks for the info on rear axle seals. If its not a TSB,and is a design defect mine might be ok cause don't hear any noise. Could be on certain vin# and year. Ive got 22k on it now. Thanks for the reply
Hi. I have a 2002 front wheel drive Highlander and I have begun noticing a popping sensation in the steering wheel when I accelerate. This normally happens after I come to a complete stop and then accelerate. Occasionally, I have this sensation when turning. Has any one else had this problem? Thanks.
My wife just called from work. She works at the mall. Our 5 day old HL now has a broken window on the drivers side front door. She does not know how it happened. It was parked out away from the other cars. The Security guard says he was in that area most of the day and he didn't see anything. So we are trying to figure out if someone did it on purpose by hitting it or if the window may have been improperly installed and/or a temperature change may have caused it to break. I called the sales guy at Toyota to see if they have had this problem before. He says the only time they had a broken window, was in a Camry, and they found a rock in the floor board that had been thrown through it. He is going to check the service announcements tomorrow to see if they have had any problems with the windows. So now it's a guessing game. Unfortunately my auto insurance has a $500 deductable. Any ideas or opinions are appreciated. Thanks dpw
Did you have any valuables, even CDs, in plain sight? I've never heard of a window shattering on its own, so my guess is that it was by human "intervention". It doesn't take a thief long to pull off a smash-and-grab - luckily its only a busted window and not a missing radio or worse.
what a shame. I know how long you've waited for your HL and if it were me, I'd be highly pi--ed. As for how it may have broken, around here, vandals use pieces of porcelain from spark plugs. When thrown at window glass, it just shatters them, pretty cleanly and doesn't require much force. You might check for that. Also, like you, with a new vehicle, I always parked well away from other cars, to avoid damage from dents, etc. Unfortunately, the isolation may make it an easier target. Hope you get it resolved.
Thanks guys for the info. My wife says nothing was stollen .. so fortunately just a window to replace. I am going to check with our insurance company tomorrow. I hear some companies have a lower deductible for broken glass. We'll see. I've done a little web searching to see if auto glass can break for no apparent reason. I did find some info about very hot temps or very cold temps and car washes causing glass to shatter. But I'm sure it would be hard to prove so I will probably go ahead and pay for it myself and not mess with it. But I do wonder. Maybe my insurance will help out some. It's always something. By the way if someone did vandelize it ... it may be because our HL looks great. It is gold with the gold package ... very sharp ... so more of a target for a jealous idiot. dpw
I remember an AF major walking out of our TV repair shop into a cold NH winter and the picture tube went szzzzz. Glass neck broke due to rapid temp change.
Automotive windshields/windows will mysteriously shatter, the most common explanation being that the glass/plastic/glass sandwich was already under extraordinary stress from the manufacturing process and temperature extremes, hot or cold, broke the camel's back.
In 1966 I had a brand new VW karmann Ghia. The rear pop out window shattered by itself. My father, an engineer/scientist, commented that the glass must have had at least one bad weak spot and the pressure built up from inside the car was enough to break the glass.
The main problem I have is that the HL was at a public place (mall) so probably impossible to prove it wasn't broken by someone. Now if it was at my house in the driveway or garage I would be ready to fight ... but I'm not sure what happened myself so I'll bite the bullet and pay. dpw
Not to long ago it wasn't that uncommon for tempered glass to break on its own, but I haven't heard of it happening much in recent times. It seems to usually happens during very hot weather, and it used to happen mostly to the backlite (rear window glass). Usual causes are defects in the glass, and impacts to the glass. I've seen glass take a shot and not break until quite some time later. Impacts from road debris, slamming the door, etc, are all possible culprits. You might later find yourself with a shattered glass due to a prior accidental hit to the glass with a seatbelt buckle.
Dougweaver, any idea if the alarm went off? What was the pattern of the broken glass? Was any glass found on the passenger's side?
Funny you should post that. I was walking around the dealer lot (Massachusetts)last week while getting my oil changed and there was a new 03 HL parked way in the back with a broken drivers door window. The tempered glass had shattered but the plastic sheet was holding it together. Now, I don't know the story on this truck and it may just be a coincidence, but just thought you' like to know.
I have the same thing! I have had it looked at three times. Once, they replaced the strut mounts-no change. The third time I took it in they said they could not reproduce the condition. If you figure it out, let me know.
I remember a problem with the rear windows of some Fords exploding. The rear defrost would be turned on but, the timer wouldn't shut off. The glass would get too hot and explode. It happened to a police vehicle on patrol and he thought someone shot his window out. It was pretty tense that night till they figured out what it was.They replaced the timers.
As an EX-insurance agent I have a little more insight in window/glass coverage. On most normally written policies any window breakage is normally covered under the comprehensive coverage (not collision)of your insurance coverage; therefore look at your comprehensive deductible. Hope this helps as some of you review your policies. Later, Dan
Drivers side on the left side of the lower cushion. I'm aways careful when exiting the vehicle not to rub that area so this really erks me. Anybody else had this problem. My dealer has been great so hopefully a warranty repair will not be a problem. Now my real concern is the future reliability of the leather. Is the port installed leather different than factory? Anybody else had this problem. thanks.
My 2002 Limited HL has started to have a single clunking or dull thud noise in the rear which I hear below 40 mph when first applying the brakes. It just started at about 17,000 miles. The dealer was able to hear the noise but unable to find anything wrong. They took off the rear wheels and inspected the brakes, suspension, and rear end. The spare is snug and there are no loose items. There is evidently no float in the gas tank to thud. The dealer duplicated the sound in another HL on the lot and claimed that the sound is therefore normal and inherent in the vehicle. He said that it is caused by the gas sloshing in the tank. I doubt it. Why did it just start now and seem to be unaffected by gas level? It sounds more like a clunk than a slosh. There is no TSB on the topic. I have already had the rear axle seal replaced to eliminate the siren sound, the hatch latch replaced to get rid of the rear rattle, and the rear seatbacks padded to reduce that vibration. This is a new and different sound. The dealer's suggested remedy was to turn on the radio! Does anybody else have a rear clunk on braking or any solutions? Great car otherwise.
I don't have this noise, yet. But I do have a clank noise, like a metal object tapping on sheet metal, that comes and goes. When it gets warmer, so I don't crack an plastic trim, I'll pull some interior panels to see what's loose. In addition, I have a plastic rubbing noise on the right side dash when going over bumps, and a little "loose wire hitting on something" noise behind the left side dash which I think is from dealer installed alarm wiring (will also fix that when it gets warmer here in northeast).
I do find turning up the radio helps - don't want dealers to start tearing apart the interior given my past experience with dealers around here.
"But I do have a clank noise, like a metal object tapping on sheet metal, that comes and goes." I had a similar noise. Un latch the rear seats and re latch with some gentle force. The noise is now gone.
Thanks for the suggestion. I'll try that next time I hear it--when it comes, I hear it every few seconds. So far it seems to start or end when I use the rear hatch, but it doesn't seem to be affected by how I close the hatch. Once I even tried to make it stop by opening and closing the hatch a few times without doing any good, then it'll stop after the next time I use the hatch. Today it's been fine, hope your trick works for me when it starts "clanking" again.
I just purchased a 2003 Highlander V6 2WD. Replacing my loaded Mercury Mountaineer lease, I knew I would have to sacrifice some bells and whistles, but wanted to OWN instead of lease due to excessive mileage use. Toyota to me, has always made a safe well built car and the Highlander was beautiful and just the right size. Last night I bought a gold one with lighted running boards, leather interior and driver power seats. I was so very happy. Today I drove it on the highway for the first time with my 3 year old in the backseat. He asked to put his window down and I removed the lock. Going 60 MPH on the expressway, he lowered the window, then instantly screamed..."MY EARS!!!"...The radio sounded like it was on a muffled AM station. I went back to the dealer and drove it w/ 4 different salesmen and servicemen. They told me it was an annoying problem, and a valid complaint (I was happy they agreed) and then they said. "The solution: Don't drive with the rear windows down!" It's funny, last night when I was closing the deal, I told the salesman I loved the "cockpit", but I didn't know I was literally going to feel like I was in an Airplane! I love the car and I hate to complain, but I have never heard or felt anything more annoying. I wish I knew about it before considering to buy...Other than that I love it...but I don't feel that it's right to tell me I can't drive with my windows open while spending $415.00 a month for the next 5 years!! How much is this car worth so I can consider a trade?
I don't own a Highlander, just a Camry. But having had many vehicles I believe what you are describing is "wind buffeting". It is quite common in most makes and models of vehicles in varying amounts and with different windows rolled down. My last truck was a Dakota 4 door quad cab. I would roll down the rear window all the way and get the same thing you are. Most of the time I found that when the driver side front window was down all the way, I would lower the left rear about 3 inches, and there was very little buffeting or wind in your face. The owners manual even mentioned buffeting. Vehicle shape and many things play into this, but try a few combinations with the windows rather than get rid of it. Good luck with it, I hope this helps. Nick.
Thanks for your reply Nick. I hope what you suggested helps. I really love the car, but I also want to be comfortable while driving it! Also, what do you think about the radio (stock) becoming so muffled? It's horrible, will opening all the windows help? I know eventually I will get an aftermarket system and speakers, but for now what do you think? Thanks so much for your suggestions
When you blow into a child's whistle the sound that you hear is the result of a "standing wave", an air pressure wave, to be explicit.
Like the whistle, the air entering that rear window "pressurizes" the vehicle's interior, the resulting pressure wave travels to the rear of the vehicle as it pressurizes the vehicle, and then is reflected back to the opening as that is the only "pressure" exit.
The volume and depth of the whistle determine the frequency, just as it does in your vehicle. Since your vehicle has a HUGE volume in relation to the whistle the resulting standing wave has a very low frequency.
In my old 68 and 75 Ford station wagons I could electrically lower the rear tailgate glass slightly to relieve the pressure.
Law of physics, sorry.
Many vehicles of this fashion, Chrysler T&C, X5, have rear quarter panel window vents that can be opened remotely by the driver.
As has been mentioned in a couple of other posts, the best way to prevent this is to play with the other windows to find what works best to eliminate the buffeting. What I've found works best in most vehicles including the highlander is to open the opposing window a crack. So if you're planning on opening the driver's rear window, open the passenger front window a couple of inches first. This seems to allow the air to "flow" from one window out the other without the buffeting. Hope this works.
I have owned a Highlander since April 2001. same issue with the rear window rolling down and the sound that a helicopter is landing in the back seat and the fact that your eardrums cannot take that vibration. It is a topic that has been beaten to death on the board. I also went to the dealership and complained after discovering this issue. The Highlander is so well built in terms of air pressure within the car that it has no way of releasing the air flow when driving in that situation, so the flow simply bounces back from the rear and causes the vibration. Try this, if someone wants to open the rear window just make sure that one of the front windows is opened a crack to release the pressure. It works for me. Toyota knows about this so called 'design flaw'. As of current all Highlanders do this and there has been no attempt by Toyota to change or acknowlegde. I am sure that if enough of us complain to Toyota directly someone may actually force them to change the design.
I love my Highlander and exhuasted research of all other SUV's of that size at that time to determine which one was a best fit for my family's lifestyle. I too also have a 3 year old that did the same complaining when it happened.
Compared to a Ford/Mazda Escape/Tribute (many recalls) Jeep Liberty (I detest Crysler products). The Highlander is sure to last many more years than those other offerrings.
I was also tired of the stock system and promptly replaced the unit (Panasonic) and door speakers with Inifinity 3 ways. What a difference.
Toyota and Lexus use climate control designs by NipponDenso, Denso USA. These designs require the vehicle cabin be especially well sealed to prevent the "conditioned" interior atmosphere from too rapidly exiting the vehicle via the build-in "exhauster" (in the RX the exhauster is inside the driver's side rear quarter panel near the bottom).
These automatic climate controls are designed to enable the the A/C compressor operation at all times and at all temperatures. The only exception is unless the exit airflow from the A/C's cooling heat exchanger, evaporator, declines below about 34F (it's freezing outside and the system is in "fresh" mode).
To prevent the A/C compressor from cycling on continuously and thereby adversely affecting the fuel economy the "conditioned" air must not be allowed to readily escape.
Therefore the exhauster outflow is located in an area of typically higher atmospheric pressure, above that within teh vehicle, underneath the vehicle at the rear.
Even if you don't have the automatic climate control your vehicle still comes out of the factory extremely well sealed to exit airflow.
I have often considered adding additional outflow exhausters to my RX, say like those on the side of the Porsche 911 Targa or the 76 Mustang fastback. I had hoped the RX330 would have remotely operated rear wing vent windows to help overcome the problem, like the Chrysler minivan series or the X5.
You are not alone. I too have those same sounds. The one on the right under glove box area and also a creaking sound coming form the front somewhere. Goes away in the warm weather. If you find the solution please post. Thanks
The pretzel spin explanation is nothing but malarky!!!
The helicopter noise is ABSOLUTELY the worst I have ever experienced in any vehicle I have ever been in PERIOD - EXCLAMATION POINT. To say that it is because of the vehicle so well built is a very unreasonable explanation. It's comparable to justifying building an airplane out of bricks and although it can't fly, saying it is the most durable, best airplane every built.
To play games with the windows with trying this and trying that and experimenting with what works is a cop out by Toyota. Just fix the darn thing.
Try doing the same thing with almost any new vehicle on the road today and you'll get the same result. Whether its a Ford, Chevy, Honda, Toyota, or anything else, the newer aerodynamics of the cars don't have the same inherent turbulance going over the car and so they cause the same effect if you open only one window and it is exacerbated if the window you open is a rear one. If you want a vehicle that is quiet going through the air and has adequate gas milage because of it, it will be aerodynamic. If it is aerodynamic, it will cause the reverberation with one window open.
Sorry, but I need to disagree with you. Please re-read my previous post. As I said, I've owned plenty of cars and been in plenty of other vehicles with the windows open and although they do make some sort of a wind noise, I have never, EVER experienced anything like this before. We're talking damage to the ear here. Have you actually heard it? It's unbearable for even a few seconds. I'm not making this up.
Don't fall for the Toyota explanation. They're just trying to cover it up under the guise of great engineering (???). What's even more of a shame is that their customers are falling for it.
As I said before, my 68, and my 75, Ford country squire station wagons did exactly the same thing. But in those all I had to do was lower the rear tailgate window ever so slightly to let the "pressure wave" dissipate.
Qualification on the RX/HL dessertaion.
Even though the Fords would resonate in the same manner, the amplitude was NEVER so great as to actually be painful as it is, can be, in my 01 RX.
I brought up the issue of the sound proofing, insulation, and extraordinary level of restrictive sealing to outlet airflow only as an explanation for the extremely painful amplitude of the pressure wave.
If Toyota and Lexus were to be motivated to solve the problem the simplest solution is to be able to open the most rear quarter panel window(s), even just ever so slightly, jus as can be done in the Chrysler T&C, and I think the X5.
An ideal DIY solution to the painfullness of the sound resonance might be to buy two of the louvered panels which serve as battery gas outlets in the Toyota Prius and fit them, one to each side, into a hole cut in the exterior metal at the top of each rear quarter panel.
I have experienced the problem you describe, but I gotta tell you, it goes away, if you just vent the cabin by opening another window. No offense, but when common sense and minimal inconvenience can overcome the problem, why complain about engineering? Yeah, maybe it isn't perfect, but these are the types of "problems" that are not safety issues, but are things which we can control. If the situation couldn't be resolved, that would be a different matter.
With all due respect. I have opened and experimented with opening other windows and the noise does not go away. It does become somewhat bearable but not to the point where I would keep the windows open for an extended period of time.
My Highlander is a 01 so maybe the newer models are better(??). Don't know. Nevertheless, I agree it is a great riding vehicle . . . I just can't (and won't) ever drive with the window(s) down, especially going 65 MPH on a Highway - - ear damage will occur.
as the name clearly implies, "runpanther" is consistently driving at a higher speed than most of us typically do. The higher the vehicle speed, the more pronounced the pressure wave will become, even with multiple windows open.
May I recommend an experiment, only to be used to confirm the cause and effect analysis, not really practical for everyday use. Open the tailgate just a few inches and somehow tie it into place in that position and then take a drive to confirm the analysis.
Is there a way to program the remote so that all the doors will be unlock by just pressing the the unlock botton on the remote just once instead of twice? Since the HL is our family car, 99.99% of the time I am using the car with the whole family.
While you're at it, what about the rattles from the plastic dash panel above the glovebox? The dealer did the glovebox-door "fix" but that was never the problem.
Seems like an awful lot of buzzes, rattles, noises in the dash as a whole. Anyone with ideas? I'm tired of turning up the radio!
The Highlander must be the best built auto on the market if the only problems are rattles and uncomfortable head rests. Check out some of the other boards and you will see transmission problems, body falling apart, engine problems and other related situations. Some of these problems tie up cars for over two weeks!! We really do have a great car in the Highlander!!
I like my HL very much. But, I just spoke with a service advisor at a Toyota Dealership and he said rattles/vibrations are covered under the 3yr 36k and they would install items to correct the problem. Probably cushioning of some kind. I'll let you folks know. By the way, personally, I find the seats more comfortable than my wife's LS 430.
The headrest reference was to a woman who is having a problem due to her height. I also find the Highlander to be the most comfortable and quiet car I have ever owned. The only car that can come close was a 1973 Volvo 142. We kept that one for 13 years. My wife even commented that the seats are more comfortable than in her 2002 Camry.
Toyota tried to fix the glove box rattle in my Highlander 3 times and failed each visit. I did a little exploring and found a plug/bracket that is vibrating. Open the glove box and lower it all the way down toward the floor. Reach up under the dash right at the top of the opening and probe back till you feel 2 wiring harnesses wrapped in rigid plastic tubing, both running left to right. Use a zip tie to connect them tightly. Now, follow them to the left till you feel a large plug that one harness ends at. I couldn't see the color but, it is smooth with rounded edges. You can feel that it is loose and can be worked back and forth. The back portion can make contact with the casing behind it and this causes the vibration. I used a thick piece of foam insulation that was about 2 inches by 2 inches and a tore off a piece about 3 inches long. Compress and wedge it between the back of the plug and where it comes up against the casing and it will immobilize it and end the vibration/rattle. I did it a few days ago and it stopped right away. Good luck, Bill
Comments
Does anyone still have the vibration behind the pass air bag? It is caused by a wiring harness that vibrates against the back of the dash. They put padding between mine and the dash 3x but, it came right back. Any advice? Also, did anyone try padding between the fuel line and firewall to deaden that tapping from the fuel injectors in cold weather? Thanks, Bill
Automotive windshields/windows will mysteriously shatter, the most common explanation being that the glass/plastic/glass sandwich was already under extraordinary stress from the manufacturing process and temperature extremes, hot or cold, broke the camel's back.
Dougweaver, any idea if the alarm went off? What was the pattern of the broken glass? Was any glass found on the passenger's side?
I do find turning up the radio helps
Like the whistle, the air entering that rear window "pressurizes" the vehicle's interior, the resulting pressure wave travels to the rear of the vehicle as it pressurizes the vehicle, and then is reflected back to the opening as that is the only "pressure" exit.
The volume and depth of the whistle determine the frequency, just as it does in your vehicle. Since your vehicle has a HUGE volume in relation to the whistle the resulting standing wave has a very low frequency.
In my old 68 and 75 Ford station wagons I could electrically lower the rear tailgate glass slightly to relieve the pressure.
Law of physics, sorry.
Many vehicles of this fashion, Chrysler T&C, X5, have rear quarter panel window vents that can be opened remotely by the driver.
Ken
I have owned a Highlander since April 2001. same issue with the rear window rolling down and the sound that a helicopter is landing in the back seat and the fact that your eardrums cannot take that vibration. It is a topic that has been beaten to death on the board. I also went to the dealership and complained after discovering this issue. The Highlander is so well built in terms of air pressure within the car that it has no way of releasing the air flow when driving in that situation, so the flow simply bounces back from the rear and causes the vibration. Try this, if someone wants to open the rear window just make sure that one of the front windows is opened a crack to release the pressure. It works for me. Toyota knows about this so called 'design flaw'. As of current all Highlanders do this and there has been no attempt by Toyota to change or acknowlegde. I am sure that if enough of us complain to Toyota directly someone may actually force them to change the design.
I love my Highlander and exhuasted research of all other SUV's of that size at that time to determine which one was a best fit for my family's lifestyle. I too also have a 3 year old that did the same complaining when it happened.
Compared to a Ford/Mazda Escape/Tribute (many recalls) Jeep Liberty (I detest Crysler products). The Highlander is sure to last many more years than those other offerrings.
I was also tired of the stock system and promptly replaced the unit (Panasonic) and door speakers with Inifinity 3 ways. What a difference.
Goodluck.
These automatic climate controls are designed to enable the the A/C compressor operation at all times and at all temperatures. The only exception is unless the exit airflow from the A/C's cooling heat exchanger, evaporator, declines below about 34F (it's freezing outside and the system is in "fresh" mode).
To prevent the A/C compressor from cycling on continuously and thereby adversely affecting the fuel economy the "conditioned" air must not be allowed to readily escape.
Therefore the exhauster outflow is located in an area of typically higher atmospheric pressure, above that within teh vehicle, underneath the vehicle at the rear.
Even if you don't have the automatic climate control your vehicle still comes out of the factory extremely well sealed to exit airflow.
I have often considered adding additional outflow exhausters to my RX, say like those on the side of the Porsche 911 Targa or the 76 Mustang fastback. I had hoped the RX330 would have remotely operated rear wing vent windows to help overcome the problem, like the Chrysler minivan series or the X5.
Maybe an aftermarket kit?
The pretzel spin explanation is nothing but malarky!!!
The helicopter noise is ABSOLUTELY the worst I have ever experienced in any vehicle I have ever been in PERIOD - EXCLAMATION POINT. To say that it is because of the vehicle so well built is a very unreasonable explanation. It's comparable to justifying building an airplane out of bricks and although it can't fly, saying it is the most durable, best airplane every built.
To play games with the windows with trying this and trying that and experimenting with what works is a cop out by Toyota. Just fix the darn thing.
Just to inform you.
Ken
Don't fall for the Toyota explanation. They're just trying to cover it up under the guise of great engineering (???). What's even more of a shame is that their customers are falling for it.
Qualification on the RX/HL dessertaion.
Even though the Fords would resonate in the same manner, the amplitude was NEVER so great as to actually be painful as it is, can be, in my 01 RX.
I brought up the issue of the sound proofing, insulation, and extraordinary level of restrictive sealing to outlet airflow only as an explanation for the extremely painful amplitude of the pressure wave.
If Toyota and Lexus were to be motivated to solve the problem the simplest solution is to be able to open the most rear quarter panel window(s), even just ever so slightly, jus as can be done in the Chrysler T&C, and I think the X5.
My Highlander is a 01 so maybe the newer models are better(??). Don't know. Nevertheless, I agree it is a great riding vehicle . . . I just can't (and won't) ever drive with the window(s) down, especially going 65 MPH on a Highway - - ear damage will occur.
May I recommend an experiment, only to be used to confirm the cause and effect analysis, not really practical for everyday use. Open the tailgate just a few inches and somehow tie it into place in that position and then take a drive to confirm the analysis.
Seems like an awful lot of buzzes, rattles, noises in the dash as a whole. Anyone with ideas? I'm tired of turning up the radio!
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