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I own a 2001 V6 Silver Highlander Limited 4X4. I was reading all the previous posts and I haven't taken my Highlander in to the dealer other than the major recalls. I was wondering if anyone could help me out and list out all the major fixes that could solve the common problems that I have(like the wind noise, clicking sound of the glove compartment, etc....). So, basically, I jsut go to the dealer and tell them about my problems and with the list I can suggest what they can do to fix the problems? As you can see, I'm a newb with this kind of stuff. I appreciate all the help!
Thanks,
Will
Three problems off the top of my head that I've remember hearing about on these boards that have known (i.e., TSB-associated) fixes are the rear wheel bearing noise, the front door cross wind noise, and the glove compartment door rattle. I've experienced the latter two and in both cases I took the vehicle to the dealer and briefly described the problem while adding that I understood there was a known fix for it (which is layman talk for saying there's a TSB for the problem -- someone on these boards said some dealers don't like customers telling them that they know there's a TSB for the problem, so I just play dumb and try to sound like a layman) and they fixed it without any fuss or problems (except that the adhesive felt pads they added to fix the glove box rattle slowly migrated and after about a year the glove box door started rattling again).
However, I've read at least a couple of times where people have taken their vehicle in to be serviced under warranty and the dealer would refuse to do so unless if the problem could be demonstrated to them. This is sometimes difficult as some problems are quite intermittent and fail to occur while at the dealership.
Since you just got done going through all the previous posts on this board you're probably up on more of the problems reported here than me. TSBs (Technical Service Bulletins) for known problems are posted on the Edmund's site (You, Your Vehicle and the Technical Service Bulletin) as well as on the NHTSA's site (Service Bulletins Search). The last time I checked (over a year ago) there were about 20 TSBs for the Highlander (specify "Truck or VAN" for SUVs). But note that not all TSBs relate to vehicle problems -- some may be a clarification on a service procedure for the mechanic, for example. Also, the titles and descriptions for TSBs are not always well composed and thus can be ambiguous and difficult to decipher.
Good luck in keeping your Highlander running smoothly!
I have a slight issue, I have 02HL in black. That means scratches are very noticeable. Is there any kind of care kit or chemical I can use to hide some of these scratches. I don't want the paint to come off or make it dully looking. I usesed compond a couple of times, and I can see a slight difference in the paint. I don't want body work either, its to expensinve.
Help if possible.
Thanks!
Can't say about the HL but maybe...
I'd test drive a third Highlander and fiddle with the climate controls after ensuring the windows are fully shut...
Anyway, I want to know if there's some kind of touch up paint or other similar product that can help the scratch disappear. I'm leery of using something that might make the scratch more visible. Anyone have any success with something that can make my scratch disappear? Would a body shop do a better job then I could?
PS - I have the silver Highlander.
I decided to get it checked with the dealer in any case. They didn't seemed to notice the problem since they couldn't simulate the same. It happened to me again. Right now I have the dealer taking a much closer look at it. He informed me that after talking to Toyota corp, they know that its the controller behind the dash that got damaged when some water from the condensation dripped in to it and he is planning to get it replaced. Thank god I am still covered under warranty.
Hope none of you face this problem on a warm day or on a normal day. If you do, now you know what it could be.
Take care and God Speed.
Toyota/Lexus uses an EPR valve downstream of the evaporator and with low airflow on an extremely hot day the evaporator can freeze up.
Does anyone have a suggestion on what my next step should be? I have 15k miles on my vehicle and do not want this problem to happen again after my warranty is up.
Note that the side vents that wwest mentioned which are at the far left and far right ends of the dashboard near the front doors could still be the culprit if they aren't closed all the way -- air will still be flowing through them as long as the vehicle is moving even if the vent fan is off. If I'm wrong, then insist on Goodyears! (For what its worth, the consensus on this board seems to be that the Bridgestones are the better tire...)
Have also found that where the crossbars on the roof rack are positioned makes a definite difference in wind noise. They come with both at the back, which is much quieter than when the front one is moved up. Since I kayak, front one always stays up.
Has anyone experienced this???
wwest: At least what they told me was that it was not the evaporator problem. Like I mentioned in my previous post, it was the controller that was damaged. This was caused by the water dripping as a result of the condensation. Anyway they have changed the controller and I have been driving the HL with the AC on for 2 days now without any problems.
This failure caused intermittent operation of the Check Engine light and set codes P1133 and P1135. One or both of these codes will self clear if the problem doesn't show up on 2 consecutive trips. BTW, Autozone will read trouble codes for free while you wait.
Steve
Nope, we're not.
My 2001, ~24K, approx 1/3 at highway speed, has fine mudflaps.
The brakes still suck, but the important stuff like mudflaps are still going strong.
ahh, sarcasm; just what every forum needs...
did you check the 70-0 braking distance before buying??? the distances tested are not too bad, but they're definitely not great either.
1. Outside wind noise or inside wind noise.
2. Minor squeaks and rattles
3. Having to put too much pressure on the brake
pedal.
4. Engine ticking noise.
5. Mud flaps cracking.
6. Rough shifting in tranny, sometimes.
7. Engine vibration felt in steering wheel.
These are the basic complaints over the last three years. Never read one message about oil leaks, break downs, blown engines or tranny's,
electrical problems etc. Check out the Honda Pilot discussions and read about the guy who had 5 quarts of oil leak out of his Pilot overnight.
I own a 03 HL V6 with 3000 miles on it, and so far I am loving it. Smoothe, lots of power, quiet and good styling. What else can you ask for.
The fix was to replace *both* A/F sensors and reprogram the ECU. If you had this issue you would know it because the Check Engine Light would be on.
These A/F ratio sensors are really just heated oxygen sensors. The only way that I can think of to damage them would be to leave the heater in them on for too long a period and the heaters are under the control of the ECU.
Steve
Sincerely,
Sunshine60105
The final analysis, you can't go wrong with either a Toyota or Honda!
I like to research the various test articles before buying a vehicle, but reading what owners like and dislike about their vehicles tells the true story. Owners are not bashful about telling you that they love their vehicle or that they think it is a P.O.S.
So if the local Honda dealer would have at least done a little bargaining, I would now be driving a Pilot. Maybe it is his loss and my gain, time will tell.
Enjoy the ride! I own a Pilot, but I have also admired the Highlander. Where I live, the Toyota dealers are the ones who don't deal because they are the only dealer within 300 miles. My two closest neighbors own Highlanders, so I got to see it up close. More elegant interior features than the Pilot. Pilot is more, well, truckish in its plain jane interior, but man is it functional! We all love our vehicles and love to compare notes. I am sure you will too.
Thanks,
Steve
I jsut went to the dealer today to get some of the TSBs done for my car. I have about 18000 miles on my 2001 HL Limited and they said that I should get the 15k miles Tune up for the HL. Is it worth to get the Tume up this early?
-Will
Oil and filter change, replace air filter, rotate tires,add fuel conditioner in fuel tank and install battery terminal protectors. The rest of the service consists of a long list of items the dealer checks. For instance: Check tire condition, battery, fluid levels, belts, chassis etc. I am quoting from a mailing I received today from Toyota. The cost for this 15,000 mile service is $169, give me a break.
When I take my HL in for the 15,000 mile check I will tell them to change oil and filter and re-torque the drive shaft bolt. That is all that is required according to the Scheduled Maintenance Guide.
For those who have changed their cabin air filter, I just wanted to know if it's simple to change and if anyone could tell me how to do it?
Thanks,
Will
The basic goal is to allow the glove box door to swing down - so you can access the slide out tray which holds the hepa filter (located behind the glove box bin.
Firstly - look under the glove box - near the right wheel firewall. There is a tension cable that acts to slow the opening on the glove box. It it held down by one screw - remove the screw to release the tension.
Next - you need to release the two stops at the rear of the glove box bin. Once removed - the glove box bin will swing open past the normal position. The larger opening allows access to the slide out try. Its a plastic frame holding a pleated filter.
Hope this helps.
I don't usually listen to FM stations - but I have noticed that the reception of FM radio stations is not all that good. Even the local stations (which should have a strong signal) come in which some hissing and fluctuating signal strength (FM indicator sometimes blinks out).
Does anyone have any comments - is this normal for this type of antennae? Do other people with this type of antennae experience these problems?
thanks