Toyota Highlander Maintenance and Repair

1…1314161819…105

Comments

  • jrfierojrfiero Member Posts: 123
    Re Raggedy Ann comments -
    MY Highlander has brake problems. Just 'cause yours doesn't doesn't mean it is a non-existent problem.
    I'm convinced it is a bleeding issue, but the dealer is unable to correct it. I have complained to both Toyota and NHTSA.
    I don't think the HL has brake distribution - it does have Brake Assist, wherein the car takes over if it thinks you're trying to panic stop, and applies the brakes for you. Mine kicks in too early, and even then the braking force isn't too impressive.

    #760 of 777 brake issues?!? NO by raggedy1 Aug 21, 2003 (3:10 am)
    I'm getting tired of reading about brake issues/concerns. ... have you thoroughly bled the brake system and have you had the recall work completed? Even a slight amount of air in the system will lead to the "mushy" feeling some have complained about. Don't count on the dealer always doing this right the 1st time. Bleeding has to be done more than once sometimes. ...
    The Highlander does have Electronic Brake-force Distribution, which I understood is a system to apply equal amounts of pressure to the 4 corners of the vehicle (I may be wrong on this so someone can correct me).
    This is getting too lengthy but like I said at the beginning, I'm tired of reading complaints about a non-existent problem. Try driving a Ford Taurus before complaining about the Highlander brakes
  • raggedy1raggedy1 Member Posts: 29
    jrfiero
    mr or ms fiero (do you actually own one?)
    my thread was to dispel the notion that the braking system was an inherent flaw in the HL design; if there are a few isolated problems (such as yours) then it should be addressed as such. Early posters implied that the HL design was flawed and that Toyota had put a defective product on the road. I wanted to disagree with that notion.
    And the HL DOES have Electronic Brake-force Distribution. You can check the spec sheet. If you're talking about Anti-Lock Brakes when referring to Brake Assist, then that's another issue that we can discuss. If you're activating the system consistently during routine driving, then you need to reassess when you need to begin your braking. The ABS only activates if it senses impending lockup of the wheels/tires. If you are about to lock up the tires during regular driving, you're either braking too late and/or too hard. Remember that the HL weighs almost 3,900lbs for a 4wd version - much more than your average car.
  • 02hl02hl Member Posts: 8
    When purchasing my '02 LMTD 2WD, I looked for the VIN that starts with the letter J. My brother, who was a Toyota tech, said this signifies the vehicle was manufactured in Japan.

    Based on his experience (he was a Master Tech), Toyota's vehicles manufactured in Japan weren't seen in the shop as often as the domestic ones.
  • jackmickjackmick Member Posts: 39
    Lets set the record straight, It is not a notion that the HL brake system has a flaw in it. These complaints about the brakes are certainly NOT isolated. All one has to do is check back through the Highlander messages starting with the 01 model, and you will find more than a few complaints. In fact the various road tests and articles written about the HL over the last three years also mentioned the "mushy" brake pedal. My HL has a problem, I have learned to live with it.

    When I test drove My HL I was restricted to a short test drive with no freeway driving allowed. I noticed the mushy brake feel, but I figured the brakes pads were not properly seated. I was wrong.This $30,000 vehicle does stop stop properly, I don't like the fact that it doesn't, but I am stuck with it!
  • phrosutphrosut Member Posts: 122
    I was under the assumption that all of the Highlanders were made in Japan. Were some made in the US?
  • 02hl02hl Member Posts: 8
    Yes, some Toyota's are manufactured in the US. This was part of a marketing stradegy to gain market share with caucasion buyers. When domestic car companies launched the "Keep the jobs in the U.S." campaigns, the imports were motivated to open assembly shops in the US.
  • leonmacha1leonmacha1 Member Posts: 16
    2001 HL with 47000 miles. Steering wheel wobbles when stoping gently from highway speeds. Typical of warped front brake rotors. Common problem on Ford and GM, but never before on Toyotas I have owned. Anyone with similar problem? Has Toyota paid for machining of rotors for anyone?
  • jackmickjackmick Member Posts: 39
    Just curious, when you have had your tires rotated over the years did you have the lug nuts hand torqued. There is a rumor out that torquing with an air wrench will warp the rotors. It should not matter, if the rotors are manufactured properly they should stand up to air wrench torquing. Will tire shops hand torque? At what mileage did you first notice the wobbling? Thanks
  • tommyg12tommyg12 Member Posts: 158
    My HL developed the same symptoms at 24k miles. My dealer turned the rotors and replaced the front pads under warranty although I doubt Toyota will cover yours at 47k. The tires have always been rotated by the dealer but I still don't believe that tightening with an air wrench caused the warpage. I've owned many new cars and never had warped rotors this soon. I think that rotors these days are thinner. You can go to any other forum on Edmunds and find warped rotor complaints on a lot of different models. It seems that rotors are almost considered a consumable just like the pads.
  • jackmickjackmick Member Posts: 39
    I agree with you tommyg12. If lug nuts are torqued to 76 ft. lbs. with a torque wrench or an air wrench, the result is the same. I checked my owners manual under wheel nut torque. The specifications are [76ft-lbf] and there is no mention of hand torquing. So If the brake pads are within specs and the rotors begin to warp, then the rotors are defective. I get torqued about all the nit picking problems with these $30,000 HL's. You would think that after 50 years of making cars a good brake system should be a given. Is that asking too much?
  • jrfierojrfiero Member Posts: 123
    Re raggedy1 comments
    "jrfiero
    mr or ms fiero (do you actually own one?)"

    When I first got a home computer I had an '85 Fiero GT, and most of my screen name choices were gone already, and that's what I came up with! It's Mr.

    "And the HL DOES have Electronic Brake-force Distribution. You can check the spec sheet."

    The Edmunds description does NOT have Electronic Brake-force Distribution listed, nor have I ever seen it as an HL feature.

    "If you're talking about Anti-Lock Brakes when referring to Brake Assist, then that's another issue that we can discuss."

    The Edmunds description does have Emergency Brake Assist, which is as I described. It is in addition to ABS.

    "If you're activating the system consistently during routine driving, then you need to reassess when you need to begin your braking."

    I didn't say I was activating the system consistently, I said the Brake Assist assists too early (or something to that effect). I guess they have to build them with the 90lb weakling in mind.
  • lvannicolalvannicola Member Posts: 3
    Hi, new to the board. I'm in the process of leasing a HL, after signing most of the contract, toyota hits me with this gap ins. which supposedly covers the difference between the book value, and what you actually owe at the time the car may be stolen, or totaled in an accident. Any help on this matter would be greatly appreciated.
  • phrosutphrosut Member Posts: 122
    You should check with your auto insurance company. If you didn't put much of a down payment on the vehicle, then you could be "upside down" in the event of a totaled or stolen car. I put little down on our '03 HL, so bought gap insurance from our regular insurer for an additional $10 per month, for up to 2 years. The gap policies sold by dealer cover the life of the loan (usually) but cost MUCH more, usually more than twice what I'm paying. I figure after 2 years the car will be worth less than I'll owe, so the gap coverage won't be necessary. Just my opinion, tho.
  • kat101kat101 Member Posts: 14
    I have heard a lot of complaints about the buffeting from the rear windows, and I have the same problem.

    I am wondering if anyone has also experienced a buffeting from the sunroof when it is all the way open. (I have a 03 Highlander V6)

    It is my belief that Toyota was familiar with this problem and they designed the sunroof to only open 3/4 of the way the first time you press the button to slide back. I don't experince the buffeting here. However, if you press the button again, the sunroof opens all the way, and then I experience the problem.

    This isn't a big deal to me as I'm okay with having the sunrood only open 3/4 of the way. In fact, for some time I did think that that was all the way open, and didn't find out that it opened even further until I accidentily pressed it a second time
  • gwkisergwkiser Member Posts: 326
    I'm a little late to the discussion, but yes some TOYOTAS are built in the US, but ALL HIGHLANDERS are built in the same factory as the Lexus RXs, in Japan.
  • bushmills3bushmills3 Member Posts: 1
    Does anyone know of or recommend a method of having power at any of the utility outlets or lighter even when the key is off? Thanks in advance.
    I have a piece of electronic equipment that has a car adapter power plug and it needs power when the vehicle is unattended
  • pred226pred226 Member Posts: 2
    Anyone had this problem? My 2001 Highlander with only 13,800 miles (I was unable to drive for almost a year).
    All of my lug nuts are rusted and chrome is chipping off.
    This is a minor thing and Toyota is replacing them for me N/C but I can't help wonder, where was the Toyota Quality Control?
    Other than That, I love the thing.
  • pred226pred226 Member Posts: 2
    A Toyota Service Mgr. told me: "If those outlets could be hot even when keys switched off, We (Toyota)would be sued a hundred times a week by people who ran down their battery with an accessory left turned on and then claimed it was a "Toyota design flaw"

    Rig a second battery like campers etc. use.
  • shivas7shivas7 Member Posts: 2
    I just want to thank everyone who has posted for all the good information..we've had our HL for 5 days (replaced our 14 year old Camry V6 LE wagon, which we loved). I have not yer noticed some of the major issues that have been discussed on the board, but let me mention a minor one that cropped up on our first hwy trip today...the passenger side armrest is not level, like thed/s, but slopes down a bit, making it less comfortable...anyone else notice this?..if you check, you'll see it's not parallel with the d/s rest....hey, I told you it was minor, but my wife brought it up..:)..any thoughts?..thanks again for the good information...
  • dominor5dominor5 Member Posts: 58
    Congratulations on your purchase. Since yours is new, can you verify if your steering wheel is dead center when traveling straight on a level road? I just had my 2001 aligned and, though it doesn't pull or wander in either direction, the steering wheel is off approx. 10 degrees to the left when going straight. I didn't notice this when the car was new, so I just wanted verify. Thanks, and good luck. BTW, my d/s armrest is parallel to the p/s's; perhaps your d/s adjustment/position has something to do with it.
  • gklatvgklatv Member Posts: 35
    to shivas7: -try to recline the seat a bit more, and the armreast would be "adjusted" as it's attached to the side of the back support.
  • gwkisergwkiser Member Posts: 326
    Try this test. Line up the passenger seat leanback with the driver's leanback, then compare the positions of each of the armrests when both are all the way down. If one is indeed lower, it could be a loose securing screw. FYI, there is a stop on the metal plate of the armrest that is supposed to prevent the armrest from going too low. If you think the securing screw may be loose, follow the instructions below.

    If you will notice, there is a round plastic cover on the inboard side (towards the console) of the armrest. (If you don't see the cover, then you might have aftermarket or distributor/dealer installed leather as we do, and the cover will be underneath the leather cover. Carefully remove the leather cover, pop off the plastic cover and there is a screw deep down in the recess. Double-check that the screw is tightened enough and is not backing out when the armrest is raised and lowered. We had this problem for a short time on our '01 and I was able to install a lockwasher which helped to keep enough tension on the screw to avoid it backing out. Tightening the screw too much will prevent the armrest from raising and lowering and may damage the upholstery.
  • kbalchkbalch Member Posts: 19
    I would love to have the outlets stay hot without the key, even our '96 Explorer left the outlets hot, with the key off. Our Maxima turns the outlets off as well, maybe it is a Japanese thing. I would also love to have the window lock not lockout the window controls on the drivers door.
  • john361john361 Member Posts: 9
    I have a 2003 highlander that makes a small clunking noise when going through a dip, like when leaving a driveway. Has anyone else had this small problem?
  • dominor5dominor5 Member Posts: 58
    If you have the stock steel wheels, remove the center caps of the rear ones and check by the mounting hub. I forgot the part name, but it's the notched round thing by the Cotter pin in the middle--mine was loose on the p/s.
  • landdriverlanddriver Member Posts: 607
    Also see posts 7377, 7385, 7394 and 7422 in the main Highlander discussion.
  • landdriverlanddriver Member Posts: 607
    I'd suggest getting the Highlander electrical manual to ascertain the most efficient way of re-wiring the harness so that the ignition switch is bypassed, or simply run a wire from the positive post of the battery to the 12V outlet. Be sure to use a large enough guage wire for the anticipated current and add a fuse. Also see posts 7259 and 7268 in the main Highlander discussion.
  • rick27513rick27513 Member Posts: 29
    Can anyone tell me what the "re-torque drive axle" service requirement is all about? I own an '03 HL, 2WD/v6 just about to turn 5k miles. The owners manual states oil & filter, and tire rotation, as expected... but what is this axle re-torque requirement? Is it something that can be done at home? I prefer to do routine maintenance myself, and this is required every 5k miles!
  • phrosutphrosut Member Posts: 122
    Unless I'm totally misled, it just means that the driveshaft bolts (8 of them) need to be checked every service. They are supposed to be torqued to 54 ft/lbs. I do my own service (even though my oil changes would be free at the dealer, I use synthetic oil and would rather pay for that than have anything else put in, free or not). I've checked the torque and set at 54 ft/lbs, I didn't move any of the nuts at all. Proper torque means loosening the nuts then retorqueing them. I can't believe Toyota technicians do that nor that Toyota wants them to. I'm just guessing that Toyota wants to make sure that they don't get loose and cause problems. So I check them for looseness everytime I'm under the car. If they come loose and cause a problem and I haven't had a Toyota dealership check them, then I guess I'm just out of luck, warranty-wise.
  • twobrownstwobrowns Member Posts: 52
    I have a whine which occurs at 30 mph ever since new. Per my previous posts they replaced the rear bearing and seal but the problem persists. I now have 13000 miles on the HL and it is definately increasing in intensity. I took it to the dealer recently and now they say it is normal. I find that difficult to believe. I recall someone had a similar problem a while back but I did not see any posts if his problem was solved. I have been very patient with the dealer but maybe it is time to get more persistent . Any insights would be appreciated.
  • steveg44steveg44 Member Posts: 21
    I am trying to locate an easy place to run my fog light wiring. Any suggestions. I am running 55W Pilot PL-362W lights. They are 5" around and fit perfectly (with some engineering for the attachment) in the false grill slots. Any help would be appreciated.
  • dgmcdermottdgmcdermott Member Posts: 10
    My new V6 Highlander hesitates when starting from a stop. Hesistation is very short (approx 1 sec). Engine running fine. Almost like it is not shifting. Dealer is stumped since it does it sporatically. Anyone else out ther ehave a simialr problem-if so how do I fix it??
  • bbouch57bbouch57 Member Posts: 29
    My 4 cylinder did it off and on usually when it was cold on initial startup. Felt like engine was not getting gas. No response when starting from a stop. Dealer could not find anything, but did clear computer and reload. After that, no problems since.
  • raggedy1raggedy1 Member Posts: 29
    Braking & Traction
    · Full-Time 4-Wheel Drive
    · 4-Wheel Anti-Lock Brakes With 4 Channels, 4 Sensors
    · Front Power 295-mm Ventilated Disc and Rear Power 284-mm Solid Disc Brakes
    · Electronic Brake Assist
    · Electronic Brake Force Distribution
     

    http://autos.yahoo.com/newcars/details/toyota03highlander/sportut- ility4x4/trim_specs.html?refsrc=google
  • nbuinbui Member Posts: 3
    I have the same problem as yours with my 01 HL, but at 2000rpm. My Toyota dealer though it was either the alternator or belts. After replacing both, the problem is still there! I have been back to the dealer many times with this problem and they seems to give up on it. I guess I have to cope with it;however, if any one have a clue about this problem please let us know.
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    I modified the DRL ciruit on my 01 RX to activate the fog lights. I added a 12 volt relay in series with the DRL circuit and the relay contacts activate the OEM fogs.

    On the RX the DRL voltage dropping resister is under the battery support plate and I opened that ciruit and added the relay coil in series.

    Now I have the use of fog lights without the headlamps and no sooty halogen bulbs due to operation at low DRL voltages.
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    Go to the fuse panel and bridge a constant 12 volt source to the outlet fuse.
  • mcmattmcmatt Member Posts: 80
    There is also a single "lock bolt" on the bottom that looks like it aids in holding the shaft to the transmission. This bolt is 34.2Nm.

    I assumed it was this one since it is never mentioned plural. This may be a translation thing, though.

    I would be interested in hearing other ideas.
  • twobrownstwobrowns Member Posts: 52
    I drove the HL to south Fld. last week to visit our daughter(1100 miles one way). I-95 all the way and most of the time was averaging 80 mph and at times 90. Avg mpg for the trip was 21.5 not bad. However the drive train whine at 80 was anoying and very audible.In my opinion this is unaceptable and should not be for a $35000 toyota.Not sure what I may do. As I said before the dealer said it was normal!
  • steveg44steveg44 Member Posts: 21
    Does anyone have a wiring diagram and can tell me the color scheme of a hot wire to tap into for foglight installation?
  • jimshighlanderjimshighlander Member Posts: 3
    I have a Toyota Highlander AWD V6 and while I like my car very much the oil changes are killing me.

    Does anyone have any tips on how to get in and change the oil filter? I have tried reaching it from below and from above and I cannot see and easy way of reaching the filter.

    Any suggestions? Such as dropping the plastic panel that attaches to the frame to gain access from underneath.

    Thank you,
  • megawattbluesmegawattblues Member Posts: 66
    I remove the plastic pan underneath - takes a few minutes, but worth it.

    Also I lay a rag on the crossmember that the oil drips on - there's a hole in the middle of it that could let dripping oil in...
    HTH
  • jimshighlanderjimshighlander Member Posts: 3
    Thanks for the advice.. I knew that there had to be a simpler way other than letting Jiffy Lube do it.
  • junepugjunepug Member Posts: 161
    I have a few small scratches on the black pillars on both the 2003 Highlander and the 2002 Camry. Found out today that the dealers do not carry touch up paint for this purpose.
    Can anyone direct me to the proper paint to use?
  • junepugjunepug Member Posts: 161
    I have a few small scratches on the black pillars on both the 2003 Highlander and the 2002 Camry. Found out today that the dealers do not carry touch up paint for this purpose.
    Can anyone direct me to the proper paint to use?
  • landdriverlanddriver Member Posts: 607
    If memory serves me correctly (I'm too lazy right now to go out to my car and check) the black paint you see on the pillar when you open the front or rear door is somewhat of a semi-gloss texture rather than the high gloss texture on the exterior of the vehicle. My guess is that it will be almost impossible to find someone that sells a paint that matches that exactly. Either take it to a body shop, or buy some Rustoleum black semi-gloss spray paint (white can; excellent stuff; I'm assuming its available all over the U.S. and not just on the west coast) or other semi-gloss spray paint available at an automotive paint supply store (supplies paint to body shops) and re-paint the entire pillar, which is probably what the body shop would want to do.
  • kdvaillancourtkdvaillancourt Member Posts: 19
    2003 HL Limited w/2k miles. 1) When I accelerate from a stop (not all times) I hear a creak sound from the middle pillar area. After investigation appears nothing is loose. I have tried adjusting the seatbelt and no change in the creak sound. 2) Washing car last weekend and noticed small discoloration "dots" on rear tinted windows. Is the tint "built" into the windows or added. Please advise if any of you have had similiar experiences
  • rugby65rugby65 Member Posts: 81
    My 2003 Highlander V6 Limited has 2600 miles and I just noticed a whineing noise that starts at about 10 miles per hour and gets louder as I acelerate to 40 MPH. I descovered today that if I turn off the air conditioner it goes away. I would rather it be the air conditioner motor than the drive train. The front end is out of alingment also. When I stop and put the transmission in park the shifter makes a noise If the HL moves a little when key is turned off. I try to remember to set the emergence brake to prevent it moving.
  • little_pogilittle_pogi Member Posts: 149
    The schematics I have is for the 2001 model. Assuming your 03 model is prewired, and nothing has changed, it should be the red with white stripes. It should originate from Pin 7 of the junction Block right beside the Fog light relay socket.
  • eastendjimeastendjim Member Posts: 5
    Take a wire hanger and carefully guide it around the very outside of the rubber gasket that is on the firewall from inside the engine compartment. Once you do this you can snake your wires thru and the gasket will seal back around them. NO DRILLING
Sign In or Register to comment.

Helpful Tools

Most popular vehicles

Your Privacy

By accessing this website, you acknowledge that Edmunds and its third party business partners may use cookies, pixels, and similar technologies to collect information about you and your interactions with the website as described in our Privacy Statement, and you agree that your use of the website is subject to our Visitor Agreement.