Toyota Highlander Maintenance and Repair

phrosut

The only way to get that noise is by having air in the cooling system. The heater core (behind the fan/AC panel) is a natural high point that can trap air. Some vehicles are extremely hard to get all the air bled out but HLs are just now reaching the age where the cooling systems will be opened up so there's probably not a lot of experience with bleeding these systems. I worked many years in an auto repair shop and remember some cars that we had to put the front end on the hydraulic lift and tilt the thing almost 45 degrees to get the cooling system entirely air-free.

Did your coolant reserve tank EVER go entirely empty? That would introduce air into the system and of course, changing the thermostat would too, although you had the problem before you did that.

landdriver

A few years ago a friend of mine said there was a bubbling sound behind the dash that began after her car had been serviced. I got in her car and when she started it up, the sound that indeed resemble bubbling or gurgling was from the valve tappets in the engine. Perhaps what you're hearing is the valve tapping noise common to Highlanders mentioned in this board many times, which is apparently more pronounced in cold whether.

jackmick656

When I purchased my 03 HL in March of this year my biggest complaint was outside noise caused by wind.I tried to correct the problem by moving the luggage rack cross supports to the rear of the vehicle, that helped somewhat. Recently I installed a Toyota bug deflector and now the wind noise is virtually non existent. Unlike other deflectors the Toyota version sets one and a half inches away from the hood. Just enough to divert the wind above the top of the car.

tulegit

I recently purchased an 04 H/L with the preferred package. This package includes dual sunvisors with illumination, however, mine did not come with this. I went back and ask the salesman about this and we check other H/L's with this package and none of them came with the illumination, so he did nothing. So I called toyota and asked them about it and they agreed it should have been installed. So i had to go back and talk to a few more people at the dealer before they agreed to order it for me. However, it didn't seem that they were going to fix the other H/L's on the lot. So make you guys have this option, because the dealers wont do if for you.

its_done

You're right! My 04 H/L V6,awd with preferred package w/c I got last Oct 15 has no sunvisor light. Actually it's my 11 yr old daughter who notice it after a few days because my 98 sienna LE do have sunvisor light. After contacting the dealer(Superior Toyota,Merriam Ks)they couldn't believe it! It will be ordered and they gonna replaced it next week. it's a factory screw-up they said.

nimrod99

I thought I had fixed the problem a few weeks ago - only to have the rattle re-appear.

I think I have found the design flaw that causes it.

It's not the hinges - although they could rattle on some cars.

What causes the rattle in my case - is a metal bar or strip that is INSIDE the glovebox between the outer skin and the tub.
If you remove the glovebox and look up from the bottom near the hinge - you can see a small opening. Inside - you can just see the end of a metal strip or bar- that runs along the entire length of the bottom of the glovebox.

When I tapped the glovebox - I could hear the buzz rattle. When I touched the metal strip with a screw driver - the buzz didn't happen.

The fix, I just stuffed in some foam tape to stop the metal strip from rattling / buzzing.

This time - I am sure it's stopped for good.

The other fix - for another problem involved adding felt dots or disks to the glovebox door to hold it snug when closed.

Thats my 2 cents

reidk

Wife's Highlander ('01, 4cyl, FWD) just lost all heat in the passenger compartment. Fan merrily blows copious quantities of Cold air - and, of course, it is Just Now getting somewhat cold here temperature-wise (SE MI) AND vehicle has passed the 36,000 mile mark (some 37K +).

  Radiator is full, although overflow on MIN (at cold - fills up as engine warms). Radiator itself gets hot, upper hose gets hot, fans & temp gauge all appear to work OK - and the feeder tube for the interior heat exchanger gets Very Hot (by personal experience via Touch...) - at least, I ASSUME that it must be the feeder tube for passenger compartment heat exchanger that I "Found"(!). (Just visible above the access panel at right side of driver's footwell.)

Fuses all appear ok - pulled & re-inserted the 50amp "Heater" fuse, just looked at others - and am assuming at the moment that problem is with the Temperature switch on the center dash. Both fan & "direction" switches work normally, but the Temp control feels "looser" when being rotated (but then I don't drive the car all that often & don't know how it "should" feel when being operated).

Any ideas?

Vehicle has had a couple of minor glitches - radio, more rattles than expected (although '99 Camry also had a bunch of rattles), a recall or two - but otherwise has ran well, returning a pleasing combination of performance, mileage, and interior space (again, it is a FWD version: we thought the 4 felt underpowered with AWD when test drove, but this vehicle has surprising zip around town & up to reasonable highway speeds).

In any event, losing heat at 2+ years old & under 38K is disappointing. Based on OUR experience (all of 3 cars...), since 1999 Toyota's quality / reliability is At Best "No Better Than" VW's.

(Any bets on whether or not dealer will be willing to 'work with' cost on vehicle so close to warranty coverage??? Will post fix / cost once known.)

robsfhl

Just took my 2001 Highlander to my mechanic after it after the engine kept stalling out this morning. Found out that the idle control valve was bad and needed to be replaced. I immediately called the dealer to see if it was under warranty. Unfortunately for me, I just passed 40K this month and did not purchase an extended warranty (my fault). The guy I spoke to at the dealer did say that this has been a common problem with Highlanders which is very disturbing to me, as one of the main reasons I bought the Highlander was Toyota's reputation for quality and reliability. Just wanted to share this with everyone and to see if anyone else has had this problem.

wwest

Falls under emission controls warranty, maybe???

bluemind2

Hi friends,
I look through the 04HL(6918) manual guide and it states that the "Tire pressure warnning system reset" switch is next to "Tilt steering lock release lever" but this switch does not exist in my 04HL(6918). Can you check and let me know. This is not a limited model.

bluemind2

I have moon roof in my 04HL. According to the manual guide, when you quickly push and release the switch, the moon roof will open while the switch is depressed... For me, I have to push and hold indorder to open/close the moon roof. Do you have one touch(push & release) with your moon roof? Thanks

tc123

I have a 03 HL , when first starting the car in the morning after a cold night and turning the steering wheel it has this high squeak coming from the steering, just like msg 488 from biffy2.

Any help appreciated.

Thanks

fvp

I have an 03 HL with a moonroof and it opens when I hold the switch down, or, if I press and release if opens itself. Same with closing.
Frank

eastern1

We had the same problem, now corrected, on the '04 I picked up last Thursday. We too had to jiggle the switch until the panel was in the right position. You need to initialize the moonroof or normalize it in order to get it to work properly. See p. 34 of the manual, and follow the directions outlined there as if you had disconnected the battery. That fixed it for me and it now works as it's supposed to (one touch and it opens all the way automatically, one touch and it closes all the way). By "touch", I mean hold it for about a second, then release, and the panel should do its thing all by itself, after you've reinitialized it. Dealer should have prepped this.

reidk

The dealership has presented their diagnosis of the No Heat problem on wife's '01 Highlander: Conclusion is that a Control Module has failed which prevents the heating controls from switching between cold air and warm air.

The service tech can manually switch the unit to either Warm OR Cold air (warm being preferable at this time of year), but once set it will remain at that setting until the module is replaced.

Which, of course, is the Kicker: $500 for the Module PLUS $300 for installation. A grand total of $800 (!!!) simply for the ability to switch between hot and cold air. (The module is a special order item.)

And this on a vehicle which is barely 26 (Twenty-Six) months old --- BUT which does have 37,300+ miles on it... meaning that it is Out Of Warranty.

At moment, expectation is that tech will set unit to "hot air" and we will pick vehicle up this afternoon, with intention of trying our luck with Toyota Cust Svc to see whether or not we can get SOME relief from what appears to be a fairly catastrophic failure (at least in terms of cost!) for such a new vehicle.

Add this to a couple of recalls, a dead radio, and a number of squeaks & rattles, and Toyota's vaunted reputation for Quality seems to be getting somewhat tarnished - at least from our perspective (radio in wife's '99 Camry also failed, and that car had its own squeaks & rattles as well).

Sigh.

Any advice on how to best approach Toyota (OR of a less expensive repair!) would be appreciated!!

bluemind2

Check your power steering oil. It happened on my 96 Avalon. After filling up oil, the problem was gone.

reidk

Highlander back from dealer - on temp basis. The "Control Module" is indeed The Control Module: this is the actual electronic control for the fan/heat/outlet switches. Dealer swapped out unit in wife's '01 for unit from car on lot and all worked fine, and thus source of problem was confirmed. (Alas, they also swapped these units back to their original vehicles once testing was complete.)

Damages: $581 (!!) for the Control Module; $47 for some sort of Retainer for the Module (why the existing one couldn't be re-used is a mystery) + 1 hour of labor IN ADVANCE... equals some $734 Just To Order The Parts (note that the hour of "Labor" comes to close to $100!).

This is somewhat mitigated by Toyota's apparent willingness to split the bill 50/50 - BUT, WE have to first pay the dealer for the entire repair cost, and then petition Toyota Cust Svc for a refund (consisting of their Promised 50%).

On the one hand, Toyota certainly did not HAVE to offer to share the cost - and their willingness to do so IS appreciated. On the other hand, this is still a bitter pill to swallow for a vehicle that is barely over 2 years old -- and, with an Over $600 PARTS bill just for the HVAC control module, we cannot but wonder what type of horrors await should something SERIOUS go wrong the the car...

dkadams

Its_Done,

Do you know what they ordered for parts - My dealership doubts that sun visor with illumination can be retrofitted.

tc123

Thanks Bluemind2 I did check and it seems to me that the steering fluids are okay.

I spoked to the dealer who sold me the car, and he said it is normal in cold weather cause of the engine has to be warmed up and the oil circulated?

Any opinion on that, he said his two car does same in the morning.

Thanks

its_done

DKADAMS
The parts they ordered is the sunvisor with light(which is supposed to be the in car.) I dropped by the dealer yesterday for the new visors and I end up driving a rental car(03 H/L limited, not bad!). Thought it was a 15 minutes job to replaced the visors as they said turn out to be least 2 days or more as of today. They need to drop down the headliner to reach for the wiring harness in the ceiling. Sometimes I'm wondering if I made the right decision of having it changed or not considering the amount of work to the done although it's a warranty job. Now, I can't resist comparing my 04 HL with this loaner 03 HL. I guess many of you knows the changes between 03 & earlier vs 04 model.
I'm expecting the service advisor call today..

dkadams

its_done,

Thanks for the response. My dealer is telling me that it can't be done, that it requires an entire new wiring harness; even going so far as to float the idea of to buying the car back.

While I don't know that they are telling someting other than the unvarnished truth, something is not right. Is there a name at your dealership that I could ask for as I attempt to sort out an outcome that I can live with.

bluemind2

I brought my 04HL to the local Dealer(SJ-CA) and told them that couple HL owners reported missing lights on the Sunvisor. The Service manager open the Database with my VIM number. He explained me that even with Preferred Pkg(HE) but it depends on regions where we bought the vehicle. I bought my 04HL from Southern Calif and the DB doesn't show my "sunvisor with light" on the db, it just says sunvisor with vanity mirror. So I am okay with it.

dkadams

Check your window sticker, Toyota has "corrected" their database. The db on my vehicle no longer says "illumanted vanity mirror", but my window sticker still does.

bdyment

Thanks to post #896 our moonroof now operates according to the manual.
Why Toyota doesn't have one button for slide and one for tilt is a mystery.

Anyway we just brought our new 04 HL home from the dealership yesterday and are very impressed.
Hope this positive feeling remains.

its_done

Finally got the H/L this evening. Took them 3 days to replaced these sunvisors! This is what was written in the service paper :
"Customer states visors do not have the illum. w/ the vanity mirrors.. Vehicle did have this option. Ordered new visors w/ illum. Removed old visor and found no wiring provisions to add this option. Found WINDOWS STICKER to be MISPRINTED. Auto trim to remove headliner then install wiring from dome light circuit to new visors w/ illum. features." If they had told me beforehand it was a label error I won't have to go this far, tearing down the headliner. I bet the dealership want to do it since it is a warranty job they will be paid for the work and 3 days car rental.
DKADAMS, I'm not sure if it's all right to post names, the service dept. no is 913-831-0014 at Superior Toyota (KC area).

kjrusso

I also have an '03 Highlander V6 that has a steering squeak. It just started about a week ago. It squeaks throughout drive time - not just when the car is started. Esp. squeaks when making slight turn to the right or left. All fluid levels are fine and it was just serviced two weeks ago.

Any suggestions?

dtcox

I picked up my 04 HL Limited last night. Thanks to the posts about moonroof operation I checked mine and it to did not operate automatically. I read page 34 of the manual and followed the procedure which did work. The only caution I would add is when you hold the button down while the moonroof goes through its cycle, you have to make sure and let go precisely when it finishes its full cycle. I let go a little late so the moonroof will now open automatically with a push of the switch. However, it goes just past close. It means you have to make sure and release the button during normalization at just the right time. I find it a little difficult to know exactly when the roof is closed and it may take a couple times to get it just right. When you get it right , it then operates automatically just fine.

biffy2

Had the same thing last year. If it is the same as mine there is an easy fix. Look under the dash where the steering column passes through a rubber seal. Spray some silicone all round the shaft at the point where it goes through. Do not use WD40 etc. as it will deteriorate the seal. Let me know if this works for you.

Mike

jackmick656

Have an 03 HL and the steering squeek just started at 6500 miles. Going to try your fix in the morning. Thanks much for the info. Is this a great message site or what.

landdriver

According to both the '04 brochure and www.toyota.com the preferred package includes illuminated vanity mirrors.

wwest

I don't think you need to be that careful. Just hold the button down until you're sure the window, moonroof, rear hatch, etc, has reached the true end of travel. It won't hurt the drive motor to try to go beyond end of travel.

stevesr1

>What causes the rattle in my case - is a metal >bar or strip that is INSIDE the glovebox between >the outer skin and the tub.
>If you remove the glovebox and look up from the >bottom near the hinge - you can see a small >opening. Inside - you can just see the end of a >metal strip or bar- that runs along the entire >length of the bottom of the glovebox.

Nimrod,

Could you be a little more specific about what exactlty this "piece of metal" is? Is it visible with the glove box installed? "loose metal" strip doesn't sound like it should be here because it doesn't perform a function. Are you talking about the metal dashboard frame that the glove box attaches to?

The hinge shims previously described fixed 90-100% of the rattle I was experiencing. Now that it's gone I am now hearing a squeaking noise in the same general area. I think this might be either the glove box latch sliding on the strike or the glove box door sliding against the glove box light switch. However, after reading your post I would like to checkout your findings.

Thanks,

Steve

When I tapped the glovebox - I could hear the buzz rattle. When I touched the metal strip with a screw driver - the buzz didn't happen.

The fix, I just stuffed in some foam tape to stop the metal strip from rattling / buzzing.

This time - I am sure it's stopped for good.

The other fix - for another problem involved adding felt dots or disks to the glovebox door to hold it snug when closed.

nimrod99

Steve
The piece of metal is only visible with the glove box removed.
It's not the metal cover that is screwed to the back.
The only way to see it - is to look at the hinges.
At either end of the glove box - next to each hinge, is a small slit. Look inside and you can just make out a thing metal strip about 1/32" thick by 1/4" wide. It extends the full width of the glove box (I think).

At first I though the rattle or buzzing was due to the outer plastic color matched skin buzzing against the black plastic tub. It was only when I stuck my ear / face near the hinge (glove box out of the car) - that I noticed the metal strip.

To me - it seems match the pitch and frequency of the buzzing. It needs to be something light in weight (for higher frequency) and flexible ( buzzing starts when driving over a rough asphalt road).

Hope this helps

nimrod99

Oh
I would not recommend that you add washers to the gap near the hinge. The space is for thermal expansion. The plastic pin should fit snuggly to stop any vibration. Also when the glovebox is closed - the outer frame of the glovebox and the opening in the dash are supposed to form a snug fit (tapered edges)

bdyment

Well, I can't find the reset button either. HL Limited 2004. Certainly not where the manual states it is. Any ideas?

Also does anyone know the approx. weight distribution, front to rear?
Thanks

dkadams

The button is right _under_ the lip of the dash. Locate the steering wheel tilt release with you left hand. Run your hand straight down until you are tracing the underside of the dash. Move your hand to the left and you have it!

bdyment

Thanks. Just found it.

kjrusso

The silicone worked like a charm. Thanks for the help!

rflsacca

I have an whine noise coming from the left front tire area on my Highlander that happens when the vehicle is moving. It started about a week ago, doesn't change if I apply brakes, and makes the same noise whether going forward or reverse. The whine is there at all speeds but only happens intermittently. Anyone else had this problem? Anyone know what it is?

Ray

reddevilfish

I had this problem as well from my rear right wheel. It occurred at low speeds under 20 miles. Toyota service said it was a faulty wheel bearing. They ordered me the part assembly and installed it; problem was corrected. It was covered under warranty.

mdernst

The back door latch on our 2002 HL started sticking the other day (it won't unlatch) and the back (cargo) door will not open. My wife made an appointment at the dealer and she got the vague impression that they may have seen this before. I'm wondering if anyone else has had this problem (is it recurring?); and if so, is this something Toyota knows about?

Thanks.

sdanders

repaired under warranty on my 2002 HL. It was just an adjustment, no parts required.....works fine now....

reidk

Dealer obtained & installed the HVAC control module - the "guts" that sits behind the Fan/Temp/Location switches (and also extends upward to include the small buttons that adjust the clock) - and heat has returned to the Highlander.
Direct cost has been just under $790; now we start the process of requesting 50% refund from Toyota (as per their earlier promise).

Hopefully this unit will last for longer than 26 or so months....

fwpmdp

I have an '03 HL 6 cyl, 2k miles. After slowing down to 5 to 10 MPH such as turning a corner or in heavy traffic situations where you slow down then speed up (or entering an on-ramp) there is period of time of several seconds where the engine lags & hesitates and does not accelerate but will then eventually kick in and you gain power. This is nerve wracking when trying to merge on an expressway!
The dealer said this was a chronic problem (also for Camry) with the transmission - it stays in OD too long and doesn't shift down. I question this explanation, it seems that the engine doesn't have the power to respond or is not tuned properly. Have any of you experienced this condition? Any solutions, do you think the '04 engine (3.3 vs 3.0) is an improvement? Thanks.

cmuniz

Frank - To test the dealer's theory, next time you slow down, press the O/D buttom on the gear shift and see if it accelerates faster when you step on the gas again.

budhinckley

Any way to disable the alarm bell that sounds when the front door is open with the key in the ignition and the vehicle is not running?

And where is it located?

jackmick656

I own a 03 HL V6 And the Accelerator pedal seems a bit hard to press down. Anyone have the same problem? I see that there is a spring on the pedal that controls the tension. I am tempted to remove the spring and try to bend it and remove some of the tension. However if I cant get it back on, I will be SOL. Any ideas?

akat2000

I just bought a 2004 Highlander Limited. Advice in all these Town Hall forums was very invaluable and helped me narrow it down to this vehicle.

There was some discussion about Sunroof normalization and auto open/close a few weeks back. I followed the same instructions. I normalized the sunroof by holding it towards tilt until it completed a full cycle. It still doesn't automatically open and close as described in the manual. Any suggestions?

wwest

With engine off depress it all the way to the floor, firmly, and then release the pedla quickly.

If the pedal doesn't snap back, literally, then it is binding and you should take it to the dealer.

alevin04

I really like the HL and still may buy but I have two questions:

#1 Rear Window vibration

I have test driven a few HL ('03 and '04).
At speed of 35mph and up, when rear window(s) is lowered, I got a loud, deep (and a head-ache inducing) vibration which I assume came from the window rattling. I would rarely drive with those windows open but it was an annoying flaw - am I imagining it?
Has anyone else noticed this and is there anything that can be done?

-------------------------------
#2 Child booster in 3rd row

Has anyone tried to put a child safety booster for a 7 yr old (57lbs) in the third row (required at least here in CA - assume 3rd row is not exempt) ?

seems kind of cramped

Thanks