Toyota Highlander Maintenance and Repair

glennf

me too..I live in Orillia and it never seems to warm up fast enough Ihave a 2003 v6..have u taken it 2 your deiler since posting and if so what was the solution?

wwest

For the automatic system the blower will not be activated until the engine water jacket temperature climbs to ~130F. Since any water jacket temperature above that of the passenger cabin will contribute some level of heating you can overcome this delay by manually activating the blower.

 

Also remember that if you have not somehow disabled the A/C, c-best or...., all airflow, fresh or recirc., will first be CHILLED via passing through the A/C evaporator.

 

These systems are also designed such that the persons most sensitive to too much hot airflow will not be discomforted.

 

So, generally, it will help if you over-ride the automatic controls, turn the temperature setpoint up to max, until the passenger cabin is warmed to your liking, or the system airflow becomes too warm.

mikefm58

The instructions in my owner's manual on how to reset the low tire pressure switch are wrong. The manual says "after turning the vehicle on, hold the reset switch until it goes off". There should have been en extra step. After holding the reset switch until the light goes off, turn the vehicle off, then back on again and hold the button again until the low tire pressure warning light blinks 3 times.

 

I'm sure disconnecting the battery would have accomplished this also. I took the vehicle for a 10 mile ride and the warning light didn't come back on again, so everything must be set.

ecotrklvr

Way to go Columbo! How did you figure this out?

 

You've saved yourself a lot of headaches, not having to take it to a Dealer. And saved many more people their time and trouble, too. Kudos. Glad it worked.

ammo-one

My 2003 Highlander has recently started to vibrate nastily while stopped in drive. It vibrates so much that it gives me a headache. Took it to the dealer twice; they said "nothing wrong, it does that when the heater is running (turned off heater, same vibration); it's normal (horse hockey, it just started and I bought the thing in August 2003). Complained to Toyota and they said take it to the dealer (after telling them I took it there twice and I have no confidence in them). I'm going to take it to a Lincoln dealer who used to work on my Towncar. Filed a complaint with NHTS as well. Anyone have any similar problems with successful outcomes?

mikefm58

Oops, sorry for not saying that I did take it to the dealer. They were the ones who told me about the entire procedure. And they were great, in and out, in about 20 minutes. Hope I saved you guys the trouble of going to a dealer.

landdriver

Someone else a year or so ago on these boards complained of a similar problem (HL vibrates while idling) but like you was unsuccessful in getting Toyota to fix it (if interested click on Advanced Search on left sidebar and search on "vibrates" in this discussion).

jds4218

Recently purchased a new '05 Highlander with leather and heated seats. The amount of heat in the seats seems fairly modest compared to other vehicles we had seen. The car was checked prior to delivery and was said to be OK. After 2 weeks of listening to my wife complain about the seats I had her take it back to dealer for a recheck.

 

They apparently held some type of thermometer sensor over the seat and said it was heated to about 80 on driver side and about 72 on passenger side. Calls to Toyota US service center by dealer revealed nothing to do (appears there is no way to increase the amount of heat output) but maybe we are getting the run-around.??...They said the seats were functioning within specs.

 

Anyone with similar experience or insight into this?

wwest

The seat heaters in my 92 LS400 consume only about 24 watts, ~6 ohms at 12 volts. Takes a while on a cold morning to even tell i fthe seat heat is actually working.

 

Don't know the power consumption of the 01 RX300 but it has dual levels and on high you can definitely tell that the heat is ON.

desertguy

Sounds like you are getting the runaround to me. My '04 with leather are too hot! Since there is no adjustment except on and off I have to turn them off because of the heat. I had a VW GTI with heated seats and it had an adjustment knot from 1 - 5. You could leave it on 2 or 3 and not even use the cabin heater.

jds4218

I feel like we are getting blown off. What type of climate are you living in...the winter in TN is reasonable most of the time (20s-30s for low) but sometimes colder...I just think something needs adjustment so we could actually feel the heat.

spencer327

04 HL heated seats work like the tranny. sometimes nice heat output, other times just barely feel it. Control of heating is poor.

thermostatic control is inconsistant.You are never sure what temperature you are going to get.

One of the disappointments with the HL

desertguy

I was using them in Iowa the latter part of the winter last year. Now in the Phoenix area and probably will never turn them on!

flyingdoc

"Bottom line--Why pay $30-35 grand for a car with a known problem the manufacturer won't fix?"

 

Exactly right. I am currently in the market for an SUV. I want 4WD or AWD and decent cargo room. A quiet, smooth ride is important to me (I know, I know it is an SUV, but some have a better ride than others). I came very close to buying a Highlander 2 or 3 weeks ago, but while in the process of negotiating price, started reading about this problem. The sales people at the 2 dealerships I've dealt with deny ever hearing about any potential hesitation problem. Only after I showed them the multiple notes on this forum, the newspaper articles, etc, they still say that they don't know anything about it, haven't been told anything by corporate. Their response is that the vehicle is covered by a good, long warranty so if it has problems, I can bring it to the service department. Of course, my concern is that others have not been able to get the problem fixed and Toyota corporate spokesmen are quoted in newspaper articles as saying that they are still working on the problem.

 

It's really too bad, because in every other way, the Highlander is what I'm looking for. But a potentially serious safety issue is a deal breaker for me. For example, I also won't look at those vehicles that tipped in the government testing (Ford Escape, for example). So, I'm still looking, but unfortunately not at the Toyota Highlander (or at least until Toyota says that they can fix this problem).

spencer327

The only way of looking at it is that all vehicles have some failings. The compromises are in the hands of the individual who is paying the bucks. All manufacturers will stonewall problems after the fact. I for one have little confidence of any manufacturer making significant retroactive changes. Once a design is in the works it is driven by pure economics. An informed customer is the best defense. Thanks to info such as provided in these forums we can be helped into choices.

The HELP and DANGER lies in the info in the forums. Since there is no way to verify anything. Caveat Emptor

flyingdoc

I agree that all vehicles have some failings, absolutely right! Almost all vehicles have some sort of compromise.

 

"Once a design is in the works, it is driven by pure economics". While I would agree that manufacturers may want to downplay any pattern problems that occur, when there is a problem that is of such significance that it appears in the news media and there are numerous complaints to the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration, then it effects the economics. I am a ready and able buyer about to purchase an SUV. I'm sold on many aspects of their product, but as I said, this is a deal breaker for me. If it becomes a deal breaker for enough potential buyers, the manufacturer will be "driven by pure economics" to address the issue. Now whether or not it gets to that point on this issue is another question!!

 

I do sincerely wish that Toyota would address the issue in some substantive way. If I was convinced that it could be fixed or was fixed on new models, I'd be at the dealership this afternoon. Seriously!!

wwest

but the solution is complex.

 

All they have to do to fix the problem is to modify the firmware such that the "upshift" sequence is significantly delayed, or just simply isn't in the "program".

 

But that would undoubtedly mean recomputing the fuel economy for several LARGE fleets of vehicles/models already in use for many years.

 

Not just PR disaster but likely MILLIONS $$$$ in CAFE penalties for the millions of vehicles already in service.

edh

hard to believe it would make any difference in mileage

grahampeters

G'day

 

Whilst not wishing to appear rude, I cannot help noticing that there is much huffing and puffing regarding the engine hesitation issue that could far more sensibly be directed to the specific board that has been created for it. I am likely to create further discord by noting that the majority of these posts reflect fear of the problem rather than an actual issue.

 

It is very difficult to identify those posts which are for non hesitation issues.

 

Could I please add my voice to the hosts in suggesting that this issue be dealt with in an appropriate place (ie the board given over to it)

 

Thank you

 

Graham

pilot130

Astute input from "middle earth" Graham, and you're correct in observing that there seems to be mostly huffing, puffing, and speculating about the issue than anything else. There doesn't seem too be much difference (nor anything new either)at the proper board as well. I ceased input at either board for that reason. No point rehashing the same things day after day.

Where are you at and what's your ride in NZ?

grahampeters

G'day

 

Close but you don't get the cigar!

 

I am in Melbourne, Australia and am currently driving a 99 Subaru Outback which is starting to need money spent regularly. I would buy another Outback but the kids have got to that stage where they constantly seem to have more friends along than we have car seats. Hence, I am just off to buy a Kluger (Highlander to you).

 

I have been a regular poster on the Subaru Boards for the last five or so years and have beenlooking through the Highlander boards to pick up on common problems. Fortunately those issues which seem to cause greatest concern on these pages are acceptable to me. We tested the noise from travellling with the rear window open and found it acceptable.

 

Handling is a bit unexciting compared to the Outback but overall the Kluger looks like a good buy. I'll update more on the Highlander boards if I do get one

 

Cheers

 

Graham

pilot130

Sorry about the error Graham. I focussed on the Southern Cross and didn't notice the star under the Union Jack. No excuses from the Great White North, right?

You can't go too far wrong with the Highlander in my opinion, and evidently the opinion of most owners hereabouts. This hesitation problem being fussed about isn't nearly as big an issue as advertised, so don't be unduly alarmed by what amounts to a tempest in a teapot.

Good luck, and very best regards from this Canuck. Your Country is great!!

wbay

If you're an agressive driver, the hesitation may annoy you. If not, you'll probably never notice it.

 

Mercifully, here's another topic, sort of. What records are produced when one goes through the arbitration process? Something Carfax picks up? In other words, if I go through the arbitration process and the outcome is not to my satisfaction, so I decide to sell, who knows about the arbitration process?

marklin

Haven't had a chance to get dealer to take a look. I notice that on a -20C, it takes about 5 min. to actually feel the warm air coming out (with recirc and medium fan). Not sure if that's normal, but in my old Acura EL, it took a min or two to heat up...

leighanne4

Buy the magnum or pilot

1sttimevolvo1

I searched the forum prior to asking this, and didn't find post relating to it.

  

My inlaws own a 2001 Highlander V6 AWD. They've been extremely pleased with it and have really put it to good use. 1 trip up to Nova Scotia and throughout the NE of Canada, 1 trip through 10 states out west, and another trip to Canada planned this year.

  

My question is about the Homelink unit. About 4 months ago, the unit would lose it's memory setting for their garage after about a week or so, yet the link stored for our garage is retained.

  

I tried storing their garage in the 1 and the 3 slot, but end up with the same result - after about a week, Homelink loses the signal. Ours, however, still remains stored in slot 2.

I suggested he take it to the dealer, but he fears it'll cost more than he wants to spend, so he uses the unit that came with the opener.

  

Anyone experience this, and if so, how was it rectified?

  

Thanks.

starrider

Howdy all Highlander owners,

 

It has been a while since I posted anything here so bear with me. My wife has a 2004 Highlander V6 4WD Automatic. We have had really good luck with the vehicle until today, as she was leaving Walmart she noticed that the slip detection light started flashing, then it started beeping then then the brakes came on and well she freaked.

 

I took the thang for a test drive and was unable to go above 25 mph. The antilock brakes kept kicking in and the dash kept beeping and flashing and it was shakin and I freaked.

 

I called the local dealership and they are towing in to have a look at it. It would appear that the computer thinks the tires are slipping and it is trying to correct the for it. I tried to go above 25 and with my foot still on the gas it literally brought the car to a stop.

 

It only has 11000 on it and any problems should be covered, I just want to know if anyone else has experienced this problem.

 

So uh has anyone else had this problem?

 

Thank you

 

Starrider

ecotrklvr

Not a current Homelink owner, but I do know from past experience that not all garage door security systems are programmed the same. Some use a "rolling code" system for additional security. This requires a slightly different set-up for the Homelink - see www.homelink.com/home/faq.tml

1sttimevolvo1

.Not a current Homelink owner, but I do know from past experience that not all garage door security systems are programmed the same. Some use a "rolling code" system for additional security. This requires a slightly different set-up for the Homelink - see www.homelink.com/home/faq.tml

 

Theirs is not of the rolling code type.

desertguy

If it is not a rolling code type, it must be a fairly old opener as the rolling code has been the standard for many years. The opener still has to "learn" from the Homelink so I would certainly check the opener itself before assuming the Homelink is responsible. I have had several cars with the homelink system and four different GDOs and all have worked flawlessly after initial setup.

ecotrklvr

Seems as though you've proved that the Homelink memory is fine - it would be hard to believe that it would "lose" the memory selectively. The other remotes for their opener are being operated in between the times you use your Homelink. That's a clue right there. I'd re-do the Homelink set-up again. Maybe even try the rolling-code set-up. By the way, how would one know if one's GDO is a rolling-code type, anyway?

1sttimevolvo1

If it is not a rolling code type, it must be a fairly old opener as the rolling code has been the standard for many years. The opener still has to "learn" from the Homelink so I would certainly check the opener itself before assuming the Homelink is responsible. I have had several cars with the homelink system and four different GDOs and all have worked flawlessly after initial setup.

 

It definitely is not the "rolling code" type opener. The house was built in 1996 and the opener is identical to the one we have in our house.

Their's has worked "flawlessly from the setup four years ago. They began having trouble with it about 4 months ago.

Additionally, we have the Homelink on our Volvo. We have their garage code stored in the "2" button, and we have yet to lose the code.

This reinforces in my mind that the problem is with their Homelink transmitter, not the GDO.

1sttimevolvo1

By the way, how would one know if one's GDO is a rolling-code type, anyway?

 

I believe it's indicated in the Operations manual of the GDO (at least it was in theirs and ours).

ecotrklvr

I agree. Sorry, I hadn't caught the part about the flawless operation for 4 months. I've now got a clunky transmitter that works great, just big and ugly. Good luck with your Homelink.

1sttimevolvo1

I agree. Sorry, I hadn't caught the part about the flawless operation for 4 months. I've now got a clunky transmitter that works great, just big and ugly. Good luck with your Homelink.

 

No apologies required. I neglected to mention in my initial post that they've had no problems whatsoever for nearly four years until about 4 months ago.

Very puzzling.

Thanks for the sentiment.

regalluvr2

flyingdoc,

    A year ago we decided to get rid of our problem plagued 2002 Buick Rendezvous CXL AWD.We did much research here on Edmunds for the most dependable problem free SUV's and narrowed the choices down to a Honda Pilot and a Toyota Highlander.After driving both the Pilot and Highlander the choice was the Highlander.

 

    We have owned our 2004 Highlander Limited AWD for nearly 11 months now.So far its had 13,000 trouble free miles and we have had absoluetly no hesitation problems.

will7

hi Challenger,

 

  I have a 2002 highlander. Have a problem with car not turning on radomly. Warm or cold starts. If I give it gas after turning the ignition it will start but sometimes die out. Have taken it to 3 different mechanics with computer analysis and nobody can figure it out. All suggestions would be appreciated! thanks, Will

will7

Hi folks,

 

  I'm trying to find out if anyone else has gone through this problem and what repair was successful.

Problem: I have a 2002 highlander. Have a problem with car not turning on randomly. Warm or cold starts. If I give it gas after turning the ignition it will start but sometimes dies out. Have taken it to 3 different mechanics with computer analysis and nobody can figure it out. All suggestions would be appreciated! thanks, Will

dan bitman

Hello,

I am planning on buying a used ( 2-3 yrs) 2WD Highlander, 4 CYLINDER ( 2.4L engine)

Did not see comments and reviews on 4 cyl. Anyone could offer any input on this?

Thank you in advance!

Dan

edh

SEEN DIM ON THE HL- ANY AGREEMENT? WAYS TO FIX?

USES 7440 BULBS I THINK

alex9700

I see that toyota recommends premium fuel for the V6 highlander.

 

Has anybody tried running regular, and was there are side-effects besides less horsepower ?

 

Thank you

bdyment

I have used regular fuel 90% of the time in my 2004 V6 AWD. It runs great. I tried premium, just for comparison purposes. Actual gas mileage improved ever so slightly, not nearly enough to offset the difference in cost.

 

The performance didn't seem to improve, but I am not an aggressive driver.

edh

My 2004 v6 Hl I use only regular

roadrunner70

i was the one that posted the vibration in idle problem. that was about 40,000 miles ago. the good news, this car has been incredibly reliable. probably the best car we ever had.

 

the bad news, the vibration was never fixed, and in fact, i have been in 2003 and 2003 rx's that are exactly the same. it is very annoying. i believe its the vacuum controlled engine mount. when the a/c is on, its actually better. also, the vibration has gotten a little worse now.

 

on the other hand, my 2003 nissan murano has a loose seat which was fixed once, but nissan refuses to fix the second time saying its not bad enough yet. which would you rather have?? tough choice.

ecotrklvr

Hey - I just went to the dealer today about the idle on my 2002 Highlander 4-cylinder. Two weeks ago, it nearly stalled out several times when stopped - very low idle speed. This week, it's at 2000 RPM. Their service man said it was probably the Idle Speed Control Valve (ISCV). This device sits on the side of the throttle body, and bleeds air to the engine when the throttle is closed, to keep the idle at the right speed (theoretically). He had an old one in his desk drawer (what a coincidence, I thought). With the engine off, you can see it. Take off the air line feeding the throttle body, and look down into the throttle body; you'll see a small, squarish port just above the closed throttle plate. That's the top port. There's a bottom port, nearly identical, below the throttle plate that you can see when you open the throttle. This device is controlled by the ECU, and cycles between open, halfway open, and closed, depending on the engine temperature, load, etc., according to the wishes of the ECU. Except when it's clogged, or stuck. Mine seems like it's stuck. I suggested a cleaning with Throttle-Body cleaner. He thought that might work. There's only three screws that hold this thing to the throttle body, and I might yet take it off for a scraping, but I'm waiting for the $7 gasket to be in my hand before I try this. So, I'm going to try the on-car cleaning in the morning. Also going to change the PCV Valve (another $8 or so). I'll let y'all know how it goes.

 

BTW, they want about $350 to replace the ISCV.

will7

Hi ECO,

  Thank you much for the well described episode with your 2002. After reading other info on the Edmunds site, I thought it's possible also to be the ISCV. Please let me know how you make out with doing the cleaning a and placing the gasket and PCV valve. I'll probably try to attempt the same. Also, if you have the part number of the gasket + PCV valve from toyota-- would appreciate it.

ecotrklvr

Will7 and others -

 

Well, a day of adventure. I just finally managed to un-stick my ISCV from idling at 2,00RPM. Now it's back to being alarmingly low. Actually, much better for me than the 2,000RPM. Now with my 4-cylinder, it may be different from the V-6, but I know I can adjust the "throttle-stop" a bit higher to offset the worn-out ISCV.

 

The standard spec for the throttle-stop is to un-lock the 8mm hex lock-nut, then to adjust the screw (2.5mm hex) out until it just contacts the tang, and them another quarter-turn back inward (opening the throttle a tiny bit). Then tighten the 8mm hex lock-nut snugly, though not too tight - it's aluminum it resting on. I will make that quarter-turn a bit more - perhaps 5/8 to 1/2. Just got to experiment for a slightly-higher idle. I found out today that the ECU will kill all the injectors from firing after a rev to 2-3000 RPM, and then lifting off the throttle. This valve is supposed to react, and catch the idle before it stalls. When the valve is going out, is when it's most likely to die. If I can raise that throttle-stop a hair, I hope to prevent that type of stall.

 

I believe I just saved about $400 today. Time will tell, though. Am I the only one who had a high idle from the ISCV? Toyota Service hadn't seen this before. If anyone posts with this problem, I'll tell my secret.

 

Meantime, just know that these ISCV's do wear out, and they are not covered under Drivetrain or Emissions warrantee - so get 'em replaced before the 3/36,000 warrantee runs out. They sludge up quite a bit due to EGR and PCV varnish and such; there also seems to be a bi-metallic thermal spring in there that ages and gets weaker - like old choke-setting springs did. Cleaning them does help, but isn't a lasting fix.

 

If anyone wants to tackle cleaning it by pulling it off the throttle body, it looks easy. But I couldn't get one of the screw out as they are very tight, and quite soft metal. Just didn't have the exact metric Phillips screwdriver bit, I suppose. I'd recommend first buying the gasket and three new screws first - less than $10 total. And maybe someone can tell me how it worked. I cleaned mine on the vehicle; after a few mishaps, I finally got it.

scoti1

Some folks in the Engine Hesitation forum (see "helpful links" in the sidebar) are considering going the arbitration route for their "hesitation" problem. Someone there has said they perused the law databases and reported there have been No arbitration cases with Toyota for this problem. That contradicts what some here have reported. Can anyone who has gone through arbitration with their Highlander (or any model for that matter) give your advice to these others? I think leighanne is one person who shared their case with this board.

commish1

I have an 05 Camry SE V6. I have 2K on the car and have brought it to the dealer 2x. They say the hesitation problem is because of the new drive by wire system. From what I understand this is also a problem in the Highlander. If you have a problem call 1-800-331-4331 Ext 3. This is the corporate office and they will "investigate" this problem. They advised me that they already have had some complaints about this. The more people that complain the better the chances of us having our cars fixed!

scoti1

Commish1, thanks. I also encourage you and others with the problem to file complaints with the NHTSA and the Center for Autosafety (http://www.nhtsa.gov and http://www.autosafety.org). They can help nudge Toyota to action if the problem is prevalent or poses a safety hazard.