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Comments
Also remember that if you have not somehow disabled the A/C, c-best or...., all airflow, fresh or recirc., will first be CHILLED via passing through the A/C evaporator.
These systems are also designed such that the persons most sensitive to too much hot airflow will not be discomforted.
So, generally, it will help if you over-ride the automatic controls, turn the temperature setpoint up to max, until the passenger cabin is warmed to your liking, or the system airflow becomes too warm.
I'm sure disconnecting the battery would have accomplished this also. I took the vehicle for a 10 mile ride and the warning light didn't come back on again, so everything must be set.
You've saved yourself a lot of headaches, not having to take it to a Dealer. And saved many more people their time and trouble, too. Kudos. Glad it worked.
They apparently held some type of thermometer sensor over the seat and said it was heated to about 80 on driver side and about 72 on passenger side. Calls to Toyota US service center by dealer revealed nothing to do (appears there is no way to increase the amount of heat output) but maybe we are getting the run-around.??...They said the seats were functioning within specs.
Anyone with similar experience or insight into this?
Don't know the power consumption of the 01 RX300 but it has dual levels and on high you can definitely tell that the heat is ON.
thermostatic control is inconsistant.You are never sure what temperature you are going to get.
One of the disappointments with the HL
Exactly right. I am currently in the market for an SUV. I want 4WD or AWD and decent cargo room. A quiet, smooth ride is important to me (I know, I know it is an SUV, but some have a better ride than others). I came very close to buying a Highlander 2 or 3 weeks ago, but while in the process of negotiating price, started reading about this problem. The sales people at the 2 dealerships I've dealt with deny ever hearing about any potential hesitation problem. Only after I showed them the multiple notes on this forum, the newspaper articles, etc, they still say that they don't know anything about it, haven't been told anything by corporate. Their response is that the vehicle is covered by a good, long warranty so if it has problems, I can bring it to the service department. Of course, my concern is that others have not been able to get the problem fixed and Toyota corporate spokesmen are quoted in newspaper articles as saying that they are still working on the problem.
It's really too bad, because in every other way, the Highlander is what I'm looking for. But a potentially serious safety issue is a deal breaker for me. For example, I also won't look at those vehicles that tipped in the government testing (Ford Escape, for example). So, I'm still looking, but unfortunately not at the Toyota Highlander (or at least until Toyota says that they can fix this problem).
The HELP and DANGER lies in the info in the forums. Since there is no way to verify anything. Caveat Emptor
"Once a design is in the works, it is driven by pure economics". While I would agree that manufacturers may want to downplay any pattern problems that occur, when there is a problem that is of such significance that it appears in the news media and there are numerous complaints to the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration, then it effects the economics. I am a ready and able buyer about to purchase an SUV. I'm sold on many aspects of their product, but as I said, this is a deal breaker for me. If it becomes a deal breaker for enough potential buyers, the manufacturer will be "driven by pure economics" to address the issue. Now whether or not it gets to that point on this issue is another question!!
I do sincerely wish that Toyota would address the issue in some substantive way. If I was convinced that it could be fixed or was fixed on new models, I'd be at the dealership this afternoon. Seriously!!
All they have to do to fix the problem is to modify the firmware such that the "upshift" sequence is significantly delayed, or just simply isn't in the "program".
But that would undoubtedly mean recomputing the fuel economy for several LARGE fleets of vehicles/models already in use for many years.
Not just PR disaster but likely MILLIONS $$$$ in CAFE penalties for the millions of vehicles already in service.
Whilst not wishing to appear rude, I cannot help noticing that there is much huffing and puffing regarding the engine hesitation issue that could far more sensibly be directed to the specific board that has been created for it. I am likely to create further discord by noting that the majority of these posts reflect fear of the problem rather than an actual issue.
It is very difficult to identify those posts which are for non hesitation issues.
Could I please add my voice to the hosts in suggesting that this issue be dealt with in an appropriate place (ie the board given over to it)
Thank you
Graham
Where are you at and what's your ride in NZ?
Close but you don't get the cigar!
I am in Melbourne, Australia and am currently driving a 99 Subaru Outback which is starting to need money spent regularly. I would buy another Outback but the kids have got to that stage where they constantly seem to have more friends along than we have car seats. Hence, I am just off to buy a Kluger (Highlander to you).
I have been a regular poster on the Subaru Boards for the last five or so years and have beenlooking through the Highlander boards to pick up on common problems. Fortunately those issues which seem to cause greatest concern on these pages are acceptable to me. We tested the noise from travellling with the rear window open and found it acceptable.
Handling is a bit unexciting compared to the Outback but overall the Kluger looks like a good buy. I'll update more on the Highlander boards if I do get one
Cheers
Graham
You can't go too far wrong with the Highlander in my opinion, and evidently the opinion of most owners hereabouts. This hesitation problem being fussed about isn't nearly as big an issue as advertised, so don't be unduly alarmed by what amounts to a tempest in a teapot.
Good luck, and very best regards from this Canuck. Your Country is great!!
Mercifully, here's another topic, sort of. What records are produced when one goes through the arbitration process? Something Carfax picks up? In other words, if I go through the arbitration process and the outcome is not to my satisfaction, so I decide to sell, who knows about the arbitration process?
My inlaws own a 2001 Highlander V6 AWD. They've been extremely pleased with it and have really put it to good use. 1 trip up to Nova Scotia and throughout the NE of Canada, 1 trip through 10 states out west, and another trip to Canada planned this year.
My question is about the Homelink unit. About 4 months ago, the unit would lose it's memory setting for their garage after about a week or so, yet the link stored for our garage is retained.
I tried storing their garage in the 1 and the 3 slot, but end up with the same result - after about a week, Homelink loses the signal. Ours, however, still remains stored in slot 2.
I suggested he take it to the dealer, but he fears it'll cost more than he wants to spend, so he uses the unit that came with the opener.
Anyone experience this, and if so, how was it rectified?
Thanks.
It has been a while since I posted anything here so bear with me. My wife has a 2004 Highlander V6 4WD Automatic. We have had really good luck with the vehicle until today, as she was leaving Walmart she noticed that the slip detection light started flashing, then it started beeping then then the brakes came on and well she freaked.
I took the thang for a test drive and was unable to go above 25 mph. The antilock brakes kept kicking in and the dash kept beeping and flashing and it was shakin and I freaked.
I called the local dealership and they are towing in to have a look at it. It would appear that the computer thinks the tires are slipping and it is trying to correct the for it. I tried to go above 25 and with my foot still on the gas it literally brought the car to a stop.
It only has 11000 on it and any problems should be covered, I just want to know if anyone else has experienced this problem.
So uh has anyone else had this problem?
Thank you
Starrider
Theirs is not of the rolling code type.
It definitely is not the "rolling code" type opener. The house was built in 1996 and the opener is identical to the one we have in our house.
Their's has worked "flawlessly from the setup four years ago. They began having trouble with it about 4 months ago.
Additionally, we have the Homelink on our Volvo. We have their garage code stored in the "2" button, and we have yet to lose the code.
This reinforces in my mind that the problem is with their Homelink transmitter, not the GDO.
I believe it's indicated in the Operations manual of the GDO (at least it was in theirs and ours).
No apologies required. I neglected to mention in my initial post that they've had no problems whatsoever for nearly four years until about 4 months ago.
Very puzzling.
Thanks for the sentiment.
A year ago we decided to get rid of our problem plagued 2002 Buick Rendezvous CXL AWD.We did much research here on Edmunds for the most dependable problem free SUV's and narrowed the choices down to a Honda Pilot and a Toyota Highlander.After driving both the Pilot and Highlander the choice was the Highlander.
We have owned our 2004 Highlander Limited AWD for nearly 11 months now.So far its had 13,000 trouble free miles and we have had absoluetly no hesitation problems.
I have a 2002 highlander. Have a problem with car not turning on radomly. Warm or cold starts. If I give it gas after turning the ignition it will start but sometimes die out. Have taken it to 3 different mechanics with computer analysis and nobody can figure it out. All suggestions would be appreciated! thanks, Will
I'm trying to find out if anyone else has gone through this problem and what repair was successful.
Problem: I have a 2002 highlander. Have a problem with car not turning on randomly. Warm or cold starts. If I give it gas after turning the ignition it will start but sometimes dies out. Have taken it to 3 different mechanics with computer analysis and nobody can figure it out. All suggestions would be appreciated! thanks, Will
I am planning on buying a used ( 2-3 yrs) 2WD Highlander, 4 CYLINDER ( 2.4L engine)
Did not see comments and reviews on 4 cyl. Anyone could offer any input on this?
Thank you in advance!
Dan
USES 7440 BULBS I THINK
Has anybody tried running regular, and was there are side-effects besides less horsepower ?
Thank you
The performance didn't seem to improve, but I am not an aggressive driver.
the bad news, the vibration was never fixed, and in fact, i have been in 2003 and 2003 rx's that are exactly the same. it is very annoying. i believe its the vacuum controlled engine mount. when the a/c is on, its actually better. also, the vibration has gotten a little worse now.
on the other hand, my 2003 nissan murano has a loose seat which was fixed once, but nissan refuses to fix the second time saying its not bad enough yet. which would you rather have?? tough choice.
BTW, they want about $350 to replace the ISCV.
Thank you much for the well described episode with your 2002. After reading other info on the Edmunds site, I thought it's possible also to be the ISCV. Please let me know how you make out with doing the cleaning a and placing the gasket and PCV valve. I'll probably try to attempt the same. Also, if you have the part number of the gasket + PCV valve from toyota-- would appreciate it.
Well, a day of adventure. I just finally managed to un-stick my ISCV from idling at 2,00RPM. Now it's back to being alarmingly low. Actually, much better for me than the 2,000RPM. Now with my 4-cylinder, it may be different from the V-6, but I know I can adjust the "throttle-stop" a bit higher to offset the worn-out ISCV.
The standard spec for the throttle-stop is to un-lock the 8mm hex lock-nut, then to adjust the screw (2.5mm hex) out until it just contacts the tang, and them another quarter-turn back inward (opening the throttle a tiny bit). Then tighten the 8mm hex lock-nut snugly, though not too tight - it's aluminum it resting on. I will make that quarter-turn a bit more - perhaps 5/8 to 1/2. Just got to experiment for a slightly-higher idle. I found out today that the ECU will kill all the injectors from firing after a rev to 2-3000 RPM, and then lifting off the throttle. This valve is supposed to react, and catch the idle before it stalls. When the valve is going out, is when it's most likely to die. If I can raise that throttle-stop a hair, I hope to prevent that type of stall.
I believe I just saved about $400 today. Time will tell, though. Am I the only one who had a high idle from the ISCV? Toyota Service hadn't seen this before. If anyone posts with this problem, I'll tell my secret.
Meantime, just know that these ISCV's do wear out, and they are not covered under Drivetrain or Emissions warrantee - so get 'em replaced before the 3/36,000 warrantee runs out. They sludge up quite a bit due to EGR and PCV varnish and such; there also seems to be a bi-metallic thermal spring in there that ages and gets weaker - like old choke-setting springs did. Cleaning them does help, but isn't a lasting fix.
If anyone wants to tackle cleaning it by pulling it off the throttle body, it looks easy. But I couldn't get one of the screw out as they are very tight, and quite soft metal. Just didn't have the exact metric Phillips screwdriver bit, I suppose. I'd recommend first buying the gasket and three new screws first - less than $10 total. And maybe someone can tell me how it worked. I cleaned mine on the vehicle; after a few mishaps, I finally got it.