Buy a 2000; I don't want too much demand for the 2001's. That's a joke. Let's first talk money. If not an issue the 2001 sounds like it's got some improvements. I think everyone expects the next year's car to be better. This will cost you closer to MSRP, than the end of the year prices on the 2000's. Here in the Boston area I've seen them advertised starting at $16,995. I don't see that much styling difference between the 2. I like the integrated headlights over those from years ago. I hear the 2001's are lighter and more powerful. Maybe more comfortable seats (the truth of that is in the rear of the beholder). Most of that info is what I read and saw on miata.net.
You may have read it on edmunds. The basic idea, is that a Miata can be driven about 9/10 in daily life, while a Corvette/M Roadster/Porsche/etc can only be driven to about 6/10 in daily life. And I think I read somewhere that the Canadian plants that build the F-body now are going to be converted to building, what else, trucks. (sounds familiar?? Anyone remember the Caprice/Roadmaster/Impala SS?)
Pure_evil probably read that comment here in Edmunds under the 2000 Miata reviewer's comments, which were...
"In our opinion, you can utilize 90 percent of the Miata's abilities under normal driving conditions, while a BMW Z3 2.8 driver is lucky to experience 60 percent of that car's potential most of the time. From this perspective, the Miata is a better value and the reason why it continues to be on Edmunds.com's Most Wanted list."
I was comparing the two vehicles myself before buying the '00SE. I drove both - the Z3 before the Miata. There was no hesitation for me afterwards.
I'll admit that the BMW curves (and badge) look good, and the car definitely will outrun the Miata on a straight track, but the difference in cost between the two vehicles for one looking for some weekend fun just could not be justified.
The 90% must be derived from the regular Miata. The upgraded suspension and larger rims has a much higher limit then the base model. The beauty of this is that you hava a choice when you buy the car, something fun, where end performance soesn't matter as long as you can have a blast at relatively legal speeds, or something you can race and really perform in.
The Michelins on my Miata were replaced with Toyos T1-S about 2 months ago. That was after about 23k miles. There were still considerable threads left on them, but wet weather performance was getting scary. For the record, I don't drive like a maniac in the wet, but the tires were hydroplaning like crazy. There were some people who have no problem with the OEM Michelins, and then there are others who feel like they were terrible wet weather tires. Granted they are "high performance" tires, but the new Toyos are much better in wet weather.
I despise the Michelin Pilot SX-GT. There are some folks that just love them though. Even if you love them, no way should you buy another set at $140 or so each. There are many better tires for half as much, or less.
I would proudly stand up as one of the many that detest the SX-GT's...
The miata is no torque dripping muscle car but in the wet you can light up the rear end all the way into third gear.
If those things even hint at lasting 20,000 miles I'll be on new rubber next year, worn or not. Since I've only put 7,000 miles on my car in 13 months... I don't relish another two years on these hockey pucks.
If I spec'ed the right size, Sears was advertising the Michelin Pilot tires at $79.99 ea. this past Saturday in S. FLA.
What's so wrong with the Pilots? I've always run Michelins (except for the stock tires) and have never had any problems with any of their tires. Admittedly, all my previous vehicles were 4 dr. land yachts. Then, too, I don't plan to do any racing.
Hopefully not related to the Pilots on my '00SE, I had a 62+mph vibration which I thought was due to balancing problems. The local dealer checked the setup, told me the tire pressures were all wrong, corrected same and gave the car back to me. That was 5 weeks ago. Last night I checked the pressures and found all 4 at 20psi! Needless to say, they're back up to 26 as per Mazda specs. I hope the vibration hasn't returned. One thing I cannot live with is tire vibration!
Well, these were the Michelins with about 20k miles. I was going back home in a rainstorm and I could feel the car hydroplaning. Granted, they were not new, but there were plenty of threads left (about 1/8" before reaching the wear indicator). And there are more than a few people who have spun out under wet road condition if not being careful when taking corners. Almost same condition (huge rainstorm, so heavy it was difficult seeing cars on the road), and this time I have the new Toyos T1-S, and I had no problem with hydroplaning at all (I could go about 65mph and no handling problem on the highway.) These are just my experiences, some people have better luck with the Michelins in the rain.
No real complaints in the dry. There are better tires, they do however cost more.
In the wet, they are terrible. In a normal traffic start I can feel the rear end get loose. If you try the rear will slip through 1st and second if you just bury the throttle.
If they give up that much grip under power, you can bet I'm not flying around corners. But I have to admit, kicking the rear end out at 15 MPH in the wet like you're a 16 year old lead-foot in a Viper has its merits.
To back up Colin, I've noticed their poor wet performance from around 1000 to 7000 miles.
Wow, a lot of negative buzz about those Pilots. I won't disagree with those more "experienced" users here but if these are bad tires, I can't wait to try to some *good* tires because I find the Pilots very usable. The dry handling is excellent and very progressive. I find the wet performance more than acceptable at 6000 miles compared to Yokohama 509 (which slide like crazy) and Dunlop SP8000 (very good). Given all the negative buzz, there's little chance I will buy the Pilots again especially given their sky-high price. If I can get better performance for less price, than bring it on!
I own a 99 leather package Miata and in a few weeks I am moving from NY to Denver. Is there anything that needs to be done to my car to adjust to the higher altitude? The car is being shipped to Denver, not driven.
Ship it with an empty tank of gas. When you arrive in Denver, fill up with their standard grade (which I believe is like 85 octane). Drive home and disconnect the battery overnight. (If you have an alarm of any sort, have the remote in hand when you reconnect the battery, trust me.)
This will enable your car to quickly adapt to the change in conditions.
well, like you said you have tried the SP8k and you think they are good. Why spend over 100 bucks a piece for the Michelin then? If you are spending that much, get the Toyos T1-S. A lot of people have tried them (from miata.net) and have had very good experience with them (myself included) oh a little commercial time, if you have not already, go check out www.miata.net A lot of good info there, including, classifieds, product reviews, etc etc
Definitely setting yourself up for trouble with the 300ZX, although they are a great buy for a great car. 2 different kinds of car though, one a lightweight sports car the other a GT.
Warpdrive, I think you'll be pleasantly surprised -- astonished may be a better word -- ifyou were to try your Miata on the Toyos that Karl and I have installed. The difference is incredible. The change in tires alone took nearly 25 seconds off my auto-X time ... either that or I really learned alot about driving in a short time!
Jim, about the vibration (again, with homage to miata.net) ... Miatas have a history of the "60 shimmy" as it was called, almost always traceable to tire inflation issues. Some people used to swear by 28#, others by 26# ... and for some reason it doesn't affect every car! ... whatever. If the shimmy comes back, just try adjusting your tires by a couple of pounds, then see what it's like.
as I understand it, the RE71 (before it was discontinued for the 730) was the choice of us cheapos (about $60/wheel). hard to beat.
As above, Tire Rack carries the Bridgestones. But Dealer Alternative (accessible by Miata.net) is a Tire Rack distributor and also handles Toyos (unlike Tire Rack).
Over the years, I've found Dlr Alt (espec the owner, Bill Cardell) to be extremely product knowlegeable and able to advise based on the kind of use you plan to give your car -- competition, street, autoX, etc.
I see on an earlier post someone said they have seen new 2000's advertised starting at $16995. Has anyone else seen pricing like that, especially around the OH or MI area?
Close to buying a '99 Miata, my first Miata, and wondering if anyone has suggestions about what type of fuel is okay...does a premium grade make a difference or does plain unleaded regular work just as well? Thanks for the help.
Start with standard grade, which is 87 octane in most places. If during hot weather or hard driving you hear any knocking-- or feel a hesistation and it's NOT the rev limiter-- increase your octane.
dutch9, true for all cars, not just Miata, that an increase in octane over that recommended by the mfgr. will either render no effect or even diminish performance. I've never heard of an up-grade being needed in a stock Miata, except when you decide to advance the timing to 14 degrees btdc or more, as some do for performance, and even then it's not always required. Forced induction is another issue.
I'm new to Edwmunds. I've just finished reading all the entries in this topic and noticed that 2 or 3 people asked about putting golf bags in the trunk. I can tell you there is NO WAY a full size golf bag will fit in the Miata trunk. At least mine won't. I put it over on the passenger side of the car. My trunk holds my shoes, straw hat, and my pull cart. But I don't think all pull carts will fit in the trunk either. This might be something you'd have to test before you purchased one (a pull cart I mean). I know the top of the line Bagboy fits. The Bagboy has a button that doesn't appear to do anything, I had to call and ask them what it was for. If you press it after you have already folded the unit up, it compresses the legs together a little more and then it will fit in the trunk.
I've got a 1991 with 143,000 miles on it. Last fall and winter I noticed a noise whenever I depressed the clutch when I first started up the car. That is, when the weather was cold and the enginer was also cold. I took the car to an independent mechanic and he quoted me a price around $800 to replace the clutch -- so I put off doing anything. Once spring and warm weather arrived, the noise completely disappeared. I was looking over at miata.net and noticed an entry that said this might just be a case of needing to lubricate the connecting rod running from the clutch slave cylinder to the pivot bearing (or something like that, sorry, I'm no mechanic). My question is, has anybody here experienced this problem, and how did you fix it? I don't want to live with this problem through another winter.
postoak - My standard size golf bag DOES fit in the trunk of my '00SE. Admittedly, I have to remove my Big Bertha drivers and place them in the trunk separately.
The bag is of the design where all pockets open to the front, and was referred to as a "cart" design when I purchased it. I don't know if I can squeeze my pull cart in with the bag. I ususally take the LeSabre when I plan to walk the course.
Jim, I admit I never thought about removing any clubs from the bag to fit it in. It was easier just to carry it up front in the passenger area. When I go to the range, I just carry individual clubs and do place them in the trunk.
My ping "hoofer" carry bag fits no problem. I have to take the driver and 3 wood out and flex them a bit and they fit as well. I can even put a full sized guitar in the hard case in there. Deceivingly spacious!!
Anyway, I've got a question. The time is coming, well winter is coming, then the time is coming, when I will have to decide what to get. I've narrowed it down to two choices.
1. A 2001 Miata - 155 hp 6 speed, nice facelift
2. 1999 Miata and Turbo charge and chip it. My biggest concern about turboing the 99 is that it will drastically shorten the life of the car. Can the engine really handle the extra hp? I know the turbo charger will only last so long and is another thing to fix, but aside from that, I still want the rest of the car to hold up. I know there is still time before I get it but I want to start deciding now, rather then making a last minute - and wrong decision.
Don't turbocharge (or supercharge) a car unless you really like hotrodding and know or want to learn about tuning.
The people that have the most trouble with bolt-on kits like that are the ones who do the bare minimum and then drive it like it's stock. It's not stock, it's highly modified and will require a lot more attention to detail.
Seems strange that you would be asking this question before even driving the new Miata. Personally I think another 15HP -- even with a smoother, flatter torque curve-- isn't going to make the Miata a whole lot faster. Not remotely in the same league as turbo/supercharging an older one, even a 1.6L.
Don't do it. Just because your warranty will be null and void and there's still some uncertainty whether *all* 1999's are affected by the TSB/#4 bearing problem. It's nice to know that my 1999 is covered for five years in case I will ever need a engine replacement (even though my VIN is out of the range)
The 2001 Miata is nice and I'd buy it for the looks and subtle improvements alone. I suspect the improvements will be hardly noticeable in driving so it won't cure any itch for speed. The bigger wheels may cause the ride to be more harsh and I feel the Miata's ride is nicely balanced between comfort and feel.
Ah yes, the warrenty. warrenty warrenty. I would like to know more about this bearing problem for the '99s.
locke2c & warpdirve: I don't really need to drive the '01 Miata, I know I will love it regardless and would buy it without a test drive if I had to. I am hoping that the extra hp will add just the right amount of zip to bring make a bit of difference in highway passing, a .2 sec or whatever 0-60 makes no difference to me. (although a 6 sec 0-60 would be nice!) I would prefer the '01 also more for looks and the standard 6sp tranny that will come with the sport package - as well as the slightly improved interior.
locke2c: You make a turbo sound like more of a burden then anything else. Is adding one after that different then, say, buying a Beetle 1.8T?
There is a huge difference between bolting on a turbo and buying turbo model from the factory. When the factory puts out a turbo model, they make a complete package. Every system is designed with the turbo in mind. Fuel delivery, air intake, ignition, cooling, brakes, suspension, compression ratio are all frequently modified to accomodate the turbocharger. Certainly, people have successfully turboed and supercharged Miatas but I bet it takes a lot of fiddling to really get it right and you stand a fair risk of losing your engine in the process.
Well I do like the 2001's better anyway. I really can't wait. I was thinking of getting a 1999 anyway to save money, but this seal thing worries me, and all of the '99s I see available, almost every single last one of them, is silver. I'll splurge this one and go for new. I guess the speed will have to wait till I can afford to bring a Lotus Elise in from Europe!
BTW, if anyone has any arguments for getting a turbo I want to hear them too.
Hmmm.. what do you mean by Mundane? I drive my car, and I do/would make use of every ounce of hp I had (within a reasonable amount that is) and a large amount of a cars handling (pretty much all of my current cars) But it Is a daily driver that I must rely on. I also has to take me through the winter. It wasn't a problem with my Mustang 5.0 but I've never owned a turbo.
Freddy, the #4 bearing problem affects early '99s in a specific range of VINs. But it has been known to exceed those range of VINs. The end result is that you need a new engine. Sometimes, no patterns have emerged yet as the affliction may happen only when the car has had some miles on it and the numbers of cars afflicted may be small. See this thread. http://www.miataforum.com/ubb/Forum6/HTML/001569.html I make no assumptions that mine is immune so I want to keep my warranty in case it happens to me.
postoak, sorry I don't know how to refer you for the clutch squeak, but I know that there are detailed maintenance and how-to instructions available in the Miata manuals that are sold for owners at all of the aftermarket dealers. I'd recommend you buy one & have a "mechanic" provide an "answer" to your question -- I'd look it up for you, but one of my friends borrowed mine to check on how to remove his dash.
freddyk, the turbo does impact reliability, but if you have a good installation of a unit that is tailored for the Miata it's certainly not like you're going to be beside the road waiting for AAA every morning. If you want to pursue the idea, Dealer Alternative offers several kits -- in increasing degrees of boost (& strain on the engine) -- each tailored for use in the Miata. They are reputed to do an exceptional job and I know that Bill Cardell, the owner, is very good at explaining what would be a good idea based on your own driving habits.
My suggestion would be to contact him, address in the marketplace of miata.net for his suggestions. He's steered me clear of some pricey options that he sells before because, he explained, they were for track, not my street use.
Just bought a new Miata and am looking for suggestions on cleaning the inside of the rear window, where the defogger is. Manual obviously says to avoid harmful cleaners, so is the answer just a damp cloth or what to avoid yellowing, etc.? Also, any store-bought conditioners you like for keeping the convertible top, well, in top shape? Armor All or that sort of thing? Thanks in advance all.
I have never owned a convertible, and I appreciate & love to drive quality automobiles. Currently, I own a '98 Audi A4 1.8T quattro, and I like it very much. Here is where I would like advice from convertible owners, Miata and BMW in particular.
What would you say to the following two options:
- Keep the Audi and buy/lease an '01 Miata as a second car (or as a first car, putting the Audi as #2!)
- Trade/sell the Audi for a new BMW 330Ci Convertible as the only car
Assume the cost of either option is roughly equal, within 10% of each other (I'm bettting somewhere around an extra $25k +/-).
I'm thinking about these factors: - Fun - Safety - Cost of ownership - gas, insurance, maintenance - versatility - simplicity
This is a good forum, thanks for any opinions, positive or negative, or other ways to consider the choice.
Other factors: married, no kids, good fun roads nearby, 30 minute one-way interstate commute, weather-friendly location (except for very hot summers).
I am leaning to the Miata option, however I drove the 330 in sedan form, and I have to admit that new engine & handling made my Audi seem pedestrian. I was stunned at how great that car drove.
I own a '97 1.8T Audi A4 and you can guess what my answer is:
The Miata!
As nice as the BMW is (and I'll be frank...it is one car that seriously had me considering trading in my almost new Audi), it AIN'T NO MIATA!
As far as your listed factors, the Miata wins by a big margin on these: Fun, Cost of ownership, simplicity. More questionable is safety as the BMW is a much larger car and size matters. As well it has more safety systems (but that goes against the "simplicity" factor)
The BMW is a big sedan/conv weighing 3000+ pounds. The Miata is a two seater weighing 2300+ lbs. The driving feel is vastly different due to this fact. Very few cars offer the driver involvement of the Miata at any price. The BMW coddles you quite a bit but is also a better all around car. That's why it makes sense to have a sedan and a Miata, there are times when the sedan is just more appropriate. However, after owning a Miata, there is very little reason for me to *want* to take my A4 (necessity dictates that I do sometimes). With the A4 and Miata, you have the best of both worlds. The Miata will be far more reliable and cheaper to run than any German car. I firmly believe, although German cars are highly desirable, the cost of that privilege is high in general.
The Miata is more fun than any other car that I can afford (ok, the S2000 is another great fun car). I could live with a 330 conv but I still don't see that car as an adequate replacement in terms of fun compared to a Miata. When the road gets curvy, shifting through that close ration gearbox, tossing the Miata in curves is one of life's great pleasures. Even if I could buy a 330, I would still want to keep my Miata.
Comments
I thought I knew something about cars until I started working with a guy who's an automotive journalist. I'm painfully aware of how little I know.
Let's first talk money. If not an issue the 2001 sounds like it's got some improvements. I think everyone expects the next year's car to be better. This will cost you closer to MSRP, than the end of the year prices on the 2000's. Here in the Boston area I've seen them advertised starting at $16,995.
I don't see that much styling difference between the 2. I like the integrated headlights over those from years ago. I hear the 2001's are lighter and more powerful. Maybe more comfortable seats (the truth of that is in the rear of the beholder).
Most of that info is what I read and saw on miata.net.
And I think I read somewhere that the Canadian plants that build the F-body now are going to be converted to building, what else, trucks. (sounds familiar?? Anyone remember the Caprice/Roadmaster/Impala SS?)
"In our opinion, you can utilize 90 percent of the Miata's abilities under normal driving conditions, while a BMW Z3 2.8 driver is lucky to experience 60 percent of that car's potential most of the time. From this perspective, the Miata is a better value and the reason why it continues to be on Edmunds.com's Most Wanted list."
I was comparing the two vehicles myself before buying the '00SE. I drove both - the Z3 before the Miata. There was no hesitation for me afterwards.
I'll admit that the BMW curves (and badge) look good, and the car definitely will outrun the Miata on a straight track, but the difference in cost between the two vehicles for one looking for some weekend fun just could not be justified.
I'm most satisfied with my decision.
Especially in a miata, the limits are very high once you get rid of the stock dogmeat tires.
-Colin
-Colin
The miata is no torque dripping muscle car but in the wet you can light up the rear end all the way into third gear.
If those things even hint at lasting 20,000 miles I'll be on new rubber next year, worn or not. Since I've only put 7,000 miles on my car in 13 months... I don't relish another two years on these hockey pucks.
What's so wrong with the Pilots? I've always run Michelins (except for the stock tires) and have never had any problems with any of their tires. Admittedly, all my previous vehicles were 4 dr. land yachts. Then, too, I don't plan to do any racing.
Hopefully not related to the Pilots on my '00SE, I had a 62+mph vibration which I thought was due to balancing problems. The local dealer checked the setup, told me the tire pressures were all wrong, corrected same and gave the car back to me. That was 5 weeks ago. Last night I checked the pressures and found all 4 at 20psi! Needless to say, they're back up to 26 as per Mazda specs. I hope the vibration hasn't returned. One thing I cannot live with is tire vibration!
Jim M.
One thing about the Pilots, they can't be as bad as the Firerocks I had on another car.
While you didn't know it at the time, all of your comments assisted me in getting a great sports car at an incredible price.
Thank you.
Almost same condition (huge rainstorm, so heavy it was difficult seeing cars on the road), and this time I have the new Toyos T1-S, and I had no problem with hydroplaning at all (I could go about 65mph and no handling problem on the highway.)
These are just my experiences, some people have better luck with the Michelins in the rain.
-Colin
In the wet, they are terrible. In a normal traffic start I can feel the rear end get loose. If you try the rear will slip through 1st and second if you just bury the throttle.
If they give up that much grip under power, you can bet I'm not flying around corners. But I have to admit, kicking the rear end out at 15 MPH in the wet like you're a 16 year old lead-foot in a Viper has its merits.
To back up Colin, I've noticed their poor wet performance from around 1000 to 7000 miles.
Thanks for your comments!
This will enable your car to quickly adapt to the change in conditions.
-Colin
If you are spending that much, get the Toyos T1-S. A lot of people have tried them (from miata.net) and have had very good experience with them (myself included)
oh a little commercial time, if you have not already, go check out www.miata.net A lot of good info there, including, classifieds, product reviews, etc etc
Looking for a cheap sporty, fun car? how is a 90 Miata for under $5k and around 100,000 miles? say compare with a 300ZX?
am I setting myself up for lots of repair and maintenance on this?
Jim, about the vibration (again, with homage to miata.net) ... Miatas have a history of the "60 shimmy" as it was called, almost always traceable to tire inflation issues. Some people used to swear by 28#, others by 26# ... and for some reason it doesn't affect every car! ... whatever. If the shimmy comes back, just try adjusting your tires by a couple of pounds, then see what it's like.
BTW, I run my Toyos at 30.
Take care.
Joe W.
www.tirerack.com
As above, Tire Rack carries the Bridgestones. But Dealer Alternative (accessible by Miata.net) is a Tire Rack distributor and also handles Toyos (unlike Tire Rack).
Over the years, I've found Dlr Alt (espec the owner, Bill Cardell) to be extremely product knowlegeable and able to advise based on the kind of use you plan to give your car -- competition, street, autoX, etc.
Highly recommended. No, I'm not affiliated.
Take care.
Joe W>
Some people run higher octane but, unless you've modified the engine and it runs higher compression the higher octane fuel really isn't necessary.
As for anecdotal information, I got no significant difference in mileage between 3 tanks of 93 and 3 tanks of 87 octane...
-Colin
The short answer is: regular.
Take care.
Joe W>
The bag is of the design where all pockets open to the front, and was referred to as a "cart" design when I purchased it. I don't know if I can squeeze my pull cart in with the bag. I ususally take the LeSabre when I plan to walk the course.
Jim M.
Regards,
- remove the driver & 3 wood and lay them on top of the bag.
- fold the pull cart and remove the wheels.
well winter is coming, then the time is coming,
when I will have to decide what to get. I've
narrowed it down to two choices.
1. A 2001 Miata - 155 hp 6 speed, nice facelift
2. 1999 Miata and Turbo charge and chip it. My
biggest concern about turboing the 99 is that it
will drastically shorten the life of the car. Can
the engine really handle the extra hp? I know the
turbo charger will only last so long and is another
thing to fix, but aside from that, I still want
the rest of the car to hold up. I know there is still time before I get it but I want to start deciding now, rather then making a last minute - and wrong decision.
The people that have the most trouble with bolt-on kits like that are the ones who do the bare minimum and then drive it like it's stock. It's not stock, it's highly modified and will require a lot more attention to detail.
Seems strange that you would be asking this question before even driving the new Miata. Personally I think another 15HP -- even with a smoother, flatter torque curve-- isn't going to make the Miata a whole lot faster. Not remotely in the same league as turbo/supercharging an older one, even a 1.6L.
-Colin
Don't do it. Just because your warranty will be null and void and there's still some uncertainty whether *all* 1999's are affected by the TSB/#4 bearing problem. It's nice to know that my 1999 is covered for five years in case I will ever need a engine replacement (even though my VIN is out of the range)
The 2001 Miata is nice and I'd buy it for the looks and subtle improvements alone. I suspect the improvements will be hardly noticeable in driving so it won't cure any itch for speed. The bigger wheels may cause the ride to be more harsh and I feel the Miata's ride is nicely balanced between comfort and feel.
I would like to know more about this bearing problem for the '99s.
locke2c & warpdirve: I don't really need to drive the '01 Miata, I know I will love it regardless and would buy it without a test drive if I had to. I am hoping that the extra hp will add just the right amount of zip to bring make a bit of difference in highway passing, a .2 sec or whatever 0-60 makes no difference to me. (although a 6 sec 0-60 would be nice!) I would prefer the '01 also more for looks and the standard 6sp tranny that will come with the sport package - as well as the slightly improved interior.
locke2c: You make a turbo sound like more of a burden then anything else. Is adding one after that different then, say, buying a Beetle 1.8T?
Well I do like the 2001's better anyway. I really can't wait. I was thinking of getting a 1999 anyway to save money, but this seal thing worries me, and all of the '99s I see available, almost every single last one of them, is silver. I'll splurge this one and go for new. I guess the speed will have to wait till I can afford to bring a Lotus Elise in from Europe!
BTW, if anyone has any arguments for getting a turbo I want to hear them too.
It's not a bad idea at all for a hardcore enthusiast okay with trading reliability and infrequent, low-cost maintenance for a *lot* more performance.
-Colin
But it Is a daily driver that I must rely on. I also has to take me through the winter. It wasn't a problem with my Mustang 5.0 but I've never owned a turbo.
http://www.miata.net/garage/tsb/tip_6_99.html
So SC'ing a '99 is a bad idea for this reason alone.
freddyk, the turbo does impact reliability, but if you have a good installation of a unit that is tailored for the Miata it's certainly not like you're going to be beside the road waiting for AAA every morning. If you want to pursue the idea, Dealer Alternative offers several kits -- in increasing degrees of boost (& strain on the engine) -- each tailored for use in the Miata. They are reputed to do an exceptional job and I know that Bill Cardell, the owner, is very good at explaining what would be a good idea based on your own driving habits.
My suggestion would be to contact him, address in the marketplace of miata.net for his suggestions. He's steered me clear of some pricey options that he sells before because, he explained, they were for track, not my street use.
Good luck.
Take care.
Joe W.
What would you say to the following two options:
- Keep the Audi and buy/lease an '01 Miata as a second car (or as a first car, putting the Audi as #2!)
- Trade/sell the Audi for a new BMW 330Ci Convertible as the only car
Assume the cost of either option is roughly equal, within 10% of each other (I'm bettting somewhere around an extra $25k +/-).
I'm thinking about these factors:
- Fun
- Safety
- Cost of ownership - gas, insurance, maintenance
- versatility
- simplicity
This is a good forum, thanks for any opinions, positive or negative, or other ways to consider the choice.
Other factors: married, no kids, good fun roads nearby, 30 minute one-way interstate commute, weather-friendly location (except for very hot summers).
I am leaning to the Miata option, however I drove the 330 in sedan form, and I have to admit that new engine & handling made my Audi seem pedestrian. I was stunned at how great that car drove.
Thanks.
I own a '97 1.8T Audi A4 and you can guess what my answer is:
The Miata!
As nice as the BMW is (and I'll be frank...it is one car that seriously had me considering trading in my almost new Audi), it AIN'T NO MIATA!
As far as your listed factors, the Miata wins by a big margin on these: Fun, Cost of ownership, simplicity. More questionable is safety as the BMW is a much larger car and size matters. As well it has more safety systems (but that goes against the "simplicity" factor)
The BMW is a big sedan/conv weighing 3000+ pounds. The Miata is a two seater weighing 2300+ lbs. The driving feel is vastly different due to this fact. Very few cars offer the driver involvement of the Miata at any price. The BMW coddles you quite a bit but is also a better all around car. That's why it makes sense to have a sedan and a Miata, there are times when the sedan is just more appropriate. However, after owning a Miata, there is very little reason for me to *want* to take my A4 (necessity dictates that I do sometimes). With the A4 and Miata, you have the best of both worlds. The Miata will be far more reliable and cheaper to run than any German car. I firmly believe, although German cars are highly desirable, the cost of that privilege is high in general.
The Miata is more fun than any other car that I can afford (ok, the S2000 is another great fun car). I could live with a 330 conv but I still don't see that car as an adequate replacement in terms of fun compared to a Miata. When the road gets curvy, shifting through that close ration gearbox, tossing the Miata in curves is one of life's great pleasures. Even if I could buy a 330, I would still want to keep my Miata.