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Mazda MX-5 Miata (2005 and earlier)

1131416181986

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    karl1973karl1973 Member Posts: 89
    Mechanicals in the Miata is pretty bullet proof. The only "problem" is the short crank engines in the early cars (90 and early 91) where the crank nose can break off IF maintenance was not done right (key can be inserted wrong way to the crank sproket) But anyway, if you can spend about 10k, you will be able to find a latter car anyway.
    Check out www.miata.net for all the information you can use on Miatas, including buying new and used, tips on maintenance, and goodies you can buy for your Miata.
    Here is a link to a good article to buying a used Miata
    http://www.miata.net/faq/usedmx5.html
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    kernickkernick Member Posts: 4,072
    I totally agree that a winter beater makes sense. If you're buying any new sports car, you're paying $20K and up.
    Do you want chips from sand/roadsalt? Salt all up in the underside of the car, and wheel assemblies?
    Questionable traction and ground clearance?
    You'll end up paying good money for snow tires and wheels. Take that money and go buy a 7-8 year old Taurus, or some such FWD or 4wd car.
    The money you'll spend on the beater will more than be made up for in not putting mileage and wear on your sports car.
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    freddy_kfreddy_k Member Posts: 376
    chips from sand? I've never heard of that, all my chips are from stones and pebbles that tend to hang around the highways all year round. Besides, I love the Miata, but it is just a car, and not a terribly expensive one at that.

    Road clearance is a problem if you get that much snow. I live in Toronto and we never have so much snow on the roads that a Miata can't clear it. Winter tires are only a few hundred dollars, and the rwd really isn't a problem with a light, well balanced car like this.
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    pinecrestjimpinecrestjim Member Posts: 64
    is a great idea, but you've got costs other than the purchase. Maintenance, insurance, tags, and in some states personal property tax.

    I kept my '91 LeSabre (143K miles) for my daily commuter and to have 6 seat capacity when needed, when I bought my Miata. I still have continued maintenance, $700+ insurance/year, and the likelihood that the car could die before I finally decide to let her go. And let's not forget the working value of ~$3.5K (of course in today's stock market, it would soon be lost anyway!).

    All in all, I still think I made the right decision. For those thinking of a second "beater" who are on a limited budget, don't forget to consider all the costs involved.

    Jim M.
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    sophietuckersophietucker Member Posts: 4
    with the help of postings at this site and Miata.net, I have determined that keeping my '00LS on the road all winter is not foolish, and completely doable...so, I have a service appointment on friday for the hardtop, plan to have 4 snows put on 16" steel wheels by mid-November, will put a collapsable shovel in the trunk, and a sleeping bag, will keep the cell phone charged, and I am ready...after fretting, and even considering abandoning the Miata, I am actually looking forward to the challenge..everyone kept saying, get a beater..I do not want the trouble or expense of an old used car that may or may not start, etc..may the force be w/all of us..
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    freddy_kfreddy_k Member Posts: 376
    two things. one, for snow the smaller the rim are better, 14" steel wheels will be more effective. the other is you don't need to waste so much trunk space with a sleeping bags, they have those super compact emergency blankets, you can fit a couple of them in your center consol. Also don't forget to include a small bag of salt in your supplies.
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    sophietuckersophietucker Member Posts: 4
    freddy...thanks for the info..how come so many ppl recommend going to 16" rims?...is it to had a bit more heigth?...kind of kidding about the sleeping bag but a compact emergency blanket is a damn good idea, thanks again...and will add the salt as well
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    karl1973karl1973 Member Posts: 89
    Generally speaking, bigger wheel = shorter sidewalls = less flex when your tires are compressed, and that would mean better handling (well, most of the time)
    In the Miata however, bigger may not mean better as the stock wheels are optimised for best handling. Stock offset on the 14" wheels (and past BBS 15" specials) is 45mm, and if you get some wheels that are not the same offset, you affect the handling (in a bad way)
    The other reason people go with bigger wheels, is that it used to be if you want high perfomance tires, you have to get big wheels because they didn't come in smaller wheel size. Not the case anymore.
    Originally you asked about snowtires, and you want a lower profile tires so they can cut through the snow and slush and grip the pavement underneath.
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    kernickkernick Member Posts: 4,072
    Insurance: If the Miata is off the road for 4 or 5 months, why insure it. Put it in a garage and just keep comprehensive on it, in case a tree falls or the garage burns down. Of course if you have a loan, that may be tough to explain to your bank - why the insurance is cancelled. The liability insurance on a car where I live is no more than $300. Insure it for 4 months and that's $100.

    Chips: The stuff they spread here in New Hampshire, is a mix of sand and salt. Our sand has enough pebbles (1/8" - 1/4") in it to chip your winshield, never mind the bumper and hood.

    Where you live: I live in the country. Several storms from 6"-18". Plows clear the roads but leave an inch of snow, and it's under pinetrees which keep the road in the shade. Turns to ice as it melts and refreezes. I drive an AWD Subaru with Blizzak tires. If you live in a city with better conditions where the streets clear in a day or so, the Miata may be okay. Just don't get off the main roads though where heavy traffic and sun clear the roads.
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    hugobeckerhugobecker Member Posts: 45
    Well you may get less sidewall flexing with larger wheels and smaller height tires, but you will also get greater unsprung weight (in most cases). Adding height to a wheel adds more weight than decreasing the sidewall height of a tire. Increasing unsprung weight will have an adverse effect on handling (all other suspension components being the same).

    The Miata's handling characteristics amplify weight changes in the wheel and tires. It really likes light weight wheels and tires. The lower the better.
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    maskedmasked Member Posts: 9
    Hey. As some of you would know here, I am 17, close to 18, and I've basically been given a grant to find a car that I want and my parents will buy it. This will be the ONLY free car I get, so I'm trying to make it a good one.

    Basically, at first I dismissed the 2-seater as a poor idea because of not being able to carry over one other passenger. After a while, though, I'm starting to realise that I'm nt that popular of a guy (heh, big surprise there) and I do 90% of my driving with just me, with 87% of it coming to school and back, so screw the other people, I'm interested.

    The only problem in getting a Miata lies in the protection from rollover--or lack thereof. My mother is crazy about me rolling the thing and killing myself, and when she gets me thinking about it, I almost get worried. I noticed on the BMW's there is a small black bar that rises above the head of the people driving. Is this protection? Or is the only option a rollbar, which come in two versions: ugly or more ugly?

    The second question: about a year ago I saw something about a hard top thst straps onto the top of a Miata. Not so sure about that, but considering after college I may move to Vancouver, a hard top may be a good idea during the rainy season (err....all year). I'm not too confident about moving my convertable to Vancouver where it rains all the time.

    If anyone can help out with my two questions, I may actually be able to get one of these. Really, if you didn't pay any attention to this long post until now, I want to know everything you can tell me about the little black bars that come up above the seats on the BMW Z3's. Any information is greatly appreciated.
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    freddy_kfreddy_k Member Posts: 376
    work opposite of dry weather tires. For snow you want a thinner tire with more rubber, which helps cut through the snow and create more traction. When it comes to the winter part of driving performance should not be much of a concern - that is what the summer tires are for.
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    dgraves1dgraves1 Member Posts: 414
    AFAIK, the only real roll-over protection is a real roll bar and, I agree, I haven't seen an attractive option for the Miata. The only ones I've seen are from "Hard Dog". The hard top you're referring to will not provide any significant roll over protection. You might check on miata.net. I don't know why no one has designed an attractive, real roll bar for the Miata. Beware "style bars". These look like roll bars but offer no real protection
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    ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Finally took the dive and bought a 1993 Miata with a mere 26k miles on Friday. It's tight, loud, and cold with the top down. In other words, PERFECT! :)

    Anyhow, it's a Limited model, white with tan leather and a tan top. It's got the 15" OE alloys, tape and CD, new tires and new battery. Immaculate condition, enough to pass inspection on the first try. Body and frame are perfect. 2 very minor scratches behind the front license plate, but that's it.

    I was extremely happy with the price. Edmunds blue book gives it a retail value of about $11,400, with wholesale at $9,700 or so. I paid $7,800 for it. The owner appeared to be pretty wealthy and just wanted to sell it, I guess. I bought the car the day the ad appeared, just before a competing buyer showed up!

    Drove it home and remembered why I've always wanted one of these - FUN! Man, it's like an arcade game come to life! I smiled all the way home, laughing to myself thinking how all these other people on the road aren't enjoying themselves nearly as much!

    We have 3 vehicles, so it's perfect. My snow/utility/beach driving vehicle is a Forester, and the wife has a perfectly reliable (read: boring) 626 V6 5-speed. FWD just ain't the same, even with power.

    Anyway, I'm very excited about it, but I do have some questions:

    1) I see the oil filter is on the side of the block, like my old Escort's Mazda engine. There appears to be a cover underneath. Any suggestions for a DIY oil change? Stick to OE filters or what?

    2) What else came on the Limited? Mine has power steering, windows, etc, but what about ABS and the rear LSD? I haven't been able to wring it out yet. Is there a visual cue to tell you what type of rear diffy you have? Guess I could look for the ABS controller under the hood.

    3) What simple mods are recommended? That rear sway bar looks mighty wimpy. What about front strut tower braces and such? Easy brake upgrades? I'm thinking chassis, then brakes, and only then engine.

    Glad to join the ranks, and can't wait to pick it up from the inspection. I'm taking tomorrow off to drive, er..., I mean do errands!

    -juice
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    dgraves1dgraves1 Member Posts: 414
    Have you been to miata.net? All of your questions can be ansered there.
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    ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    I'm on the way...but I'll stick around here too.

    -juice
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    davidb72davidb72 Member Posts: 174
    I agree with Dgraves1, pack a lunch, then head over to Miata.net. I've spent hours there! So far I've come up with (For my 1997 M model)...

    1. Front Grill to protect the radiator
    2. New Spark Plugs (NGK)
    3. New Plug Wires (NGK)
    4. Car Cover
    5. Trunk protector for the drivers side.

    As far as the oil change, I'd say give it a try where it is, Moss and Brainstorm sell kits to relocate the filter to the firewall. The only problem is there seems to be a chance of leaks with the hoses. I must admit, I really like the looks of the Moss oil cooler/filter relocation kit.

    To get some specifics on your Miata call Mazda (find the # on their website) and give them your VIN # they are very helpful.

    Good luck and have fun!
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    ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Care to share the part numbers for some of that stuff? :)

    Guess I'll wear gloves and long sleeves to change that oil!

    Where can I order OE oil filters cheap?

    -juice
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    davidb72davidb72 Member Posts: 174
    I got 2 OEM filters from http://www.mmmiata.com/
    they were 5.50 each, if you order 6 they are even less. I got the wires, the trunk protector and a haynes manual from them too, ordered them Thursday, got them today.
    I got my cover from Moss, got the grill from Duetto.
    Here are some links...
    http://www.mossmotors.com/
    http://home.flash.net/~duetto/
    http://www.miata.org/cgi-bin/bsp_home.pl
    http://www.teammiata.com/

    Check those out, my next order is going to be for CIBIE 7" headlights. From what I've read these lights will eliminate the need for Fogs or Driving lights...
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    cdnpinheadcdnpinhead Member Posts: 5,506
    It's not too difficult to change the Miata's oil, but you definitely need the filter wrench (it's an odd size, so you have to go thru Miata). Once you've done it a time or two, it's a snap. You can get to the filter from the top, and drain the oil without ramps, if need be. I've done this a number of times on road trips, and it's no big deal.

    For parts (filters, the wrench, brake pads, etc.), try getting a copy of the Miata magazine that the owners club used to issue six times a year. I can't remember the dealer I used to go to, but they advertised in the magazine, and their prices were 10 - 20% below list. If you're buying something like a tonneau cover (and you should own one, by the way), you can save a significant amount.

    Have fun!

    I certainly enjoyed my Miatas.
    '08 Acura TSX, '17 Subaru Forester
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    oscar18oscar18 Member Posts: 8
    Any feedback on use of synthetic oil in the MX-5. Have heard good things about synthetics. anyone?
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    freddy_kfreddy_k Member Posts: 376
    Synthetic oil is much cleaner and doesn't leave the sludgy crap in the engine that crude oil does over time. It is also more effective if you live in exceptionally cold or hot climates. A normal driver who keeps the car for a normal amount of time would be wasting money on synthetic, but if you plan to keep your car (in good condition) for a long time it would probably be a worthwhile investment.

    I don't bother with it because I won't keep a car long enough to justify paying 3x more for an oil change.
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    pinecrestjimpinecrestjim Member Posts: 64
    I decided to run Mobil 1 in the engine, and Redline in the tranny & diff. I replaced them at 2.5K on the clock (my friends think I'm nutz.....)

    I used to run Mobil 1 in an E-150 years ago, and never had any problems with extended oil changes. That 300 6 cyl ran over 180K before my exwife traded it away.

    I'm using Mobil 1 oil filters also, contrary to what several people here have recommended. I had to go to a Mobil distributor and by a bulk case of 6. They're not readily available at the mass marketing shops. Each filter ended up costing 1/2 of what K-Mart wanted for the more popular sizes!

    You might want to check out the synthetic oil topic here at Edmunds for more information, Topic 543 under Maintenance.

    Jim M.
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    crashton6crashton6 Member Posts: 245
    I used Mobil 1 in my 88 4Runner. I changed the oil every 5k. When I sold it I had put 195k on it. The guy that bought it 2yrs ago is still driving it. I'm sold on Mobil 1! Now I use it in my Forester & Miata. I don't use synthetics in my trannys. I've heard that they are too slippery for the syncros to slow down the gears enough for smooth gear changes. Over time they can ruin a tranny. I've heard Redline MTL has a friction modifier & is ok to use. Maybe I'll try this next gearbox oil change. Almost forgot to mention you can get Mobil 1 oil filters at Auto Zone.
    Chuck
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    ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Thanks for the tips and the links, I'll be busy surfing for a while...

    Gave her a good detailing yesterday (took the day off to register and clean it). It's in really great shape, no dents or dings at all. Looks real good now.

    The white paint does have "stains" on it, so I'll have to buff it a bit more next time. Any suggested products for deep cleaning?

    The tie down hooks are still on there, so I'll yank them off this weekend. Oil was fresh. Clear, even. Talk about a precision engine.

    Impressions? Sorry, no time, gotta go out for a drive... :)

    -juice
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    karl1973karl1973 Member Posts: 89
    Get yourself some clay bar from auto store. Wash your car thoroughly first and then follow directions to clay the whole car. You will not believe the difference until you got it done and rub your fingers over the paint surface.
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    ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    I've heard good things about that product. How do you keep from scratching the finish?

    -juice
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    goldorakgoldorak Member Posts: 6
    Hi, I'm 21 and I can only afford getting one car. I also live in Montreal, wich means snow 4 months a year. Anyone here that drvies their Miata during the winter? What are your impressions?
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    freddy_kfreddy_k Member Posts: 376
    Read back a bit, there are plenty of comments on winter driving. I live in the country next to you, Canada, and there is no problem as long as you take the proper precautions. (sorry, bad joke)
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    cdnpinheadcdnpinhead Member Posts: 5,506
    Regardless of source (the Zaino fanatics are in a class by themselves), clay can be a pretty good thing. To your point, to use this stuff, one normally wets the surface first with a lubricant of some sort (could be just water, but often there is an additive), then strokes the clay bar across the area just treated. With older cars, or those exposed to lots of crud, it's possible to pull off quite a bit of junk with clay.

    If you really want a concourse (sp?) finish, clay is essential. If you just want to drive the car, take it or leave it. It does work.
    '08 Acura TSX, '17 Subaru Forester
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    ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Thanks for the info, I'll have to use a bit of elbow grease on it. It already looks much better than when I bought it.

    More impressions: the heater CRANKS! I mean burn-your-feet type of heat.

    Wind noise seems to be best with my window down and the passenger window up. I drive with the top down, always, period. Hasn't rained since I got it! :)

    Is there a way to adjust the seat bottom angle or height on a '93 C package? Any tips for a 6', 205 pounder to get more comfortable?

    Called Mazda and mine does have the rear LSD, but no ABS. I'll have to do that test on the diffy.

    -juice
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    dgraves1dgraves1 Member Posts: 414
    Tips - become a 6', 185 pounder? :)
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    ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Good one. I guess I'll just have to stop eating!

    ;)

    -juice
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    cdnpinheadcdnpinhead Member Posts: 5,506
    I've owned a '65 MGB and a couple of Miatas ('91 & '94R). I'm 6'2" and weigh between 210 & 230. I barely fit it all three cars, but did, and managed many 700+ mile days. With the Miata, tilting the seat back a bit (with it all the way back, of course) yielded a pretty good result.
    '08 Acura TSX, '17 Subaru Forester
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    krodrenkrodren Member Posts: 31
    Anyone close to Phila.-So. Jersey-Wilmington found a dealer with 01's to show? The ones I talk to say "not until spring."
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    oscar18oscar18 Member Posts: 8
    Have heard good things about amsoil synethetic. Any one distributing in the Cincinnati,Oh. area. Would appreciate any feedback.
    thanks
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    ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Steve: yeah, seat is all the way back, and reclined too. I've found that resting my knee against the center console helps. Plus, it's a 3rd vehicle so I don't plan on very long trips with it.

    Amsoil is $8 per quart, and you need about 3.5 for each change (plus if you burn any inbetween). That's kind of steep.

    It's probably worth it if you autoX or have enough mods to push the engine real hard.

    -juice
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    crashton6crashton6 Member Posts: 245
    If you get Mothers clay bar it comes as a kit. You get the clay, a liquid spray detailer & a small bottle of cleaner wax. First you was & dry the car. Then you spray the liquid detailer on a small area. Take the clay bar & go back & forth on the area. you will feel & hear it pulling the dirt out of your paint. Kneed the clay bar & continue until your done. Then wax the car open a cold one & marvel at your new car.
    As far as your seat goes you can put spacers under the seat frame front or rear to change the angle. Also go to miata.net marketplace & check out lumbar supports. You're never going to have the comfort you get in your Forester.
    Chuck
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    crashton6crashton6 Member Posts: 245
    The local dealers here have a bunch of 2000s to unload. It seems as if Mazda is holding the 01s back until they sell off the 2000s. The salesman told me he didn't expect to see any 01s till Dec. I think if you want a 01 they can find you one. They're probably sitting on the docks.
    Chuck
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    oscar18oscar18 Member Posts: 8
    Does anyone know of an amsoil distributor in the southern Ohio area. sounds like a great product,Any Buckeyes out there.
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    davidb72davidb72 Member Posts: 174
    Tried it for the first time today, and now I'm hooked! Unfortunately it was the last run of the season for my SCCA chapter. Can't wait till next spring! If you have a Miata and haven't tried it, you have to. I didn't know my Miata could get that sideways!
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    jwilson1jwilson1 Member Posts: 956
    I'm glad to see I'm not the only one who knows to mix Miata w/Forester for pure fun! You've been such a help to me in the Subaru topics that I feel I owe you one: try this --

    leave the top down (of course)
    get a tonneau
    turn the heat up, vents aimed at your hands ...

    I've driven top down on REAL cold days this way and it really limits the discomfort as the tonneau helps direct a constant stream of hot air up over the driver! And boy, the looks you get -- oh, yeah, I put the hood on my jacket up.

    Take care.
    Joe W.
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    ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Chuck: the tips are appreciated.

    I like the spacer under the front idea. I'm more comfortable with the front of the seat in a higher position, to support the bottom of my thighs on longer drives. Are the seat tracks easy to access?

    David: was that with the stock sway bars? Were you tending towards understeer or oversteer?

    Joe: nice to see a familiar face. Well, you get the point.

    I have yet to drive it with the top up, and it was about 40 degrees this AM! I have a nice fleece-lined wind breaker and already discovered the vents-at-the-hands trick. No hood, though. Does a hat work?

    Where'd you buy your tonneau? I get lots of leaves at home, and it's a pain to keep cleaning them off. I need a cover! Suggestions?

    Did get the chance to remove all four tie-down hooks. Rears were easy. Fronts were a pain, had to use a crescent instead of the ratchet to access that last bolt on each side.

    What PSI do you guys run in the tires? I got it with 25psi, pumped it up to 33psi. Too hard. Went down to 30psi and it seems to be at a happy medium, with no shimmy at 65mph like some tend to report.

    -juice
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    davidb72davidb72 Member Posts: 174
    The car was bone stock, no extra air in the tires, didn't take the spare out... About the only mod on the car is the NGK wires I put on the day before. That being said, I felt that the car was pushing really bad. It was probably my inexperience, could have been in a wrong gear, maybe a few PSI would help, who knows? I could get it to oversteer with the throttle easier than I thought I could though. I guess what I'm saying is that I'm not going to monkey with it until a dozen or so more autocrosses. I'll have to get a lot smoother before I go making adjustments. For next spring I'm hoping to have a set of wheels and tires set up just for autocross. Other than that I'm going to run it bone stock and just work on driving better!
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    shaw10shaw10 Member Posts: 14
    So I just got back from a test drive of a 2001 LS - loved it !! But tell me, besides keeping the engine in its torque range, does the 6 speed tranny also mean the engine is running slower in 6th compared to the 5 speed in 5th? Looked like it was doing 2800 rpm in 6th at 60 mph - what is the Base turning in 5th at 60?..Also, the official Mazda site says the cassette player is standard on the LS...their brochure says its optional...the site says the LS rear end is a 4.3 - the brochure says 3.9 ! The site says that the cassette player is standard in the LS...the brochure says its optional? Can someone let me know what really is the way it is ? !
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    twolongearstwolongears Member Posts: 1
    I drove a '94 and a '00 LS. There was a HUGE difference in power and overall performance. I would like to know if this is typical of older miatas.
    I am looking to buy a 1.8 miata as a 2nd car for fun and autocrossing, but I only get 1 shot at this as I will soon have significantly higher domestic responsibilities, and the fun funds get clipped.
    Any miata autocrossing clubs in the Philly area?
    Any tips on models/ years to either skip or focus on?
    thanks in advance.
    ears.
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    dgraves1dgraves1 Member Posts: 414
    That's funny. I drove a '95 and '00 back to back a few months ago and didn't notice a significant difference at all.
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    jwilson1jwilson1 Member Posts: 956
    I got the tonneau from Moss Motors, if I recall ... about $200. The only disadvantage is not being able to fit a passenger (depending on who the passenger is!) And it does help a) keep windblown junk out of the inside and b) keep harsh sun off the seats, especially desirable if they're leather and prone to drying out.

    Sure, a hat works well. But I prefer the hood, so long as you can get one that won't block your vision, because the hood keeps the wind off your neck and ears. Hmmm, maybe a bag with eye-holes cut in it?

    This morning there was a little ice on the driveway, but the sun was out and the colors were good in the trees, so I left the radio off (like usual), put on gloves and raised the hood on my jacket and took the long way to work.

    Take care.
    Joe W.
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    ace10ace10 Member Posts: 137
    Just finished reading the 800 plus posts...

    Here's my summary:

    If you want any decent info, such as specs or aftermarket stuff on the vehicle, go to www.miata.net

    This is a good forum for pricing and purchasing information.

    Big wheels are bad? Bull-loney. You make it sound like the ride degrades to the point that the car is undrivable. I have 17" 'ers on my 97 M Ed. It handles much better than with the stock 15". Some of that is attributable to the Pirelli P7000's. And no, there is no more shimmy than with the stock 15" Bridgerocks. The wheels are a little over 19lbs. About 5 lbs more than stock. But guess what... the tire has less rubber. I'm thinking the net is only 3.5lbs difference.

    Roll Bars are bad? What a joke. I hope that people don't take this advice seriously. Unless you leased your miata, you owe it to yourself to consider the bar. And yes, I do have a Hard Dog sport. It looks good and adds confidence to my driving. Resale value. It sounds as if the only consideration should be trade-in value. If you need to sell your miata, I strongly advise not trading it in. A potential miata enthusiast is surely looking to buy your car and will appreciate safety accessories. Many vendors have ceased selling the "style bars", I support their decisions.

    Now when it comes to adding a forced induction system to the miata, we are talking about another story. That represents a major alteration to the mechanicals of the vehicle and CAN reduce the life of the engine. However a simple intake system such as the Jackson CAI or the Racing Beat intake is a bolt-on item and can be removed.

    Yes, the six speed makes ZERO sense. I don't know why Mazda bothered.

    By the way, there was no 1998 miata.

    Anyone who owns a pre '99 miata should advance their engine timing. It's free power. It works. It's not much work and can be reversed in the winter when reformulated fuel will be more likely to induce knocking. I suggest 14 degress before top dead center. If you go past that you may lose some low-end torque and will definitely need 89 or better octane. Experiment. A timing light is only $20 or $30.

    Yes, I have owned several Miata(s). They all had their strengths and weaknesses. I can't believe that Mazda felt it necessary to change the styling of the 2nd generation miatas already. This is proof positive that the M1 was virtually a timeless design (9 model years has to be close to a modern mass-production record) and the M2 is just another jellybean.

    Yes, this is a rant, in the Dennis Miller style, but Monday Night Football just ended. This forum really needs some stirring. I have been a poster on edmunds for a couple of years, just not over here.

    Thank you for your time and patience.

    Ace
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    ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Bag with eye-holes, LOL!

    Actually, I'll be looking for a nice British cap to wear. A baseball hat just doesn't do the experience justice. Maybe some driving gloves, too. Any suggestions?

    Ace: 3.5 lbs sounds like nothing, but you've increased unsprung weight by well over 20%. As they say, YMMV.

    Also, from my research, just about everyone that sells roll bars also sells style bars.

    Anyone have instructions to set the timing? With photos, I mean?

    -juice
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