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Check out www.miata.net for all the information you can use on Miatas, including buying new and used, tips on maintenance, and goodies you can buy for your Miata.
Here is a link to a good article to buying a used Miata
http://www.miata.net/faq/usedmx5.html
Do you want chips from sand/roadsalt? Salt all up in the underside of the car, and wheel assemblies?
Questionable traction and ground clearance?
You'll end up paying good money for snow tires and wheels. Take that money and go buy a 7-8 year old Taurus, or some such FWD or 4wd car.
The money you'll spend on the beater will more than be made up for in not putting mileage and wear on your sports car.
Road clearance is a problem if you get that much snow. I live in Toronto and we never have so much snow on the roads that a Miata can't clear it. Winter tires are only a few hundred dollars, and the rwd really isn't a problem with a light, well balanced car like this.
I kept my '91 LeSabre (143K miles) for my daily commuter and to have 6 seat capacity when needed, when I bought my Miata. I still have continued maintenance, $700+ insurance/year, and the likelihood that the car could die before I finally decide to let her go. And let's not forget the working value of ~$3.5K (of course in today's stock market, it would soon be lost anyway!).
All in all, I still think I made the right decision. For those thinking of a second "beater" who are on a limited budget, don't forget to consider all the costs involved.
Jim M.
In the Miata however, bigger may not mean better as the stock wheels are optimised for best handling. Stock offset on the 14" wheels (and past BBS 15" specials) is 45mm, and if you get some wheels that are not the same offset, you affect the handling (in a bad way)
The other reason people go with bigger wheels, is that it used to be if you want high perfomance tires, you have to get big wheels because they didn't come in smaller wheel size. Not the case anymore.
Originally you asked about snowtires, and you want a lower profile tires so they can cut through the snow and slush and grip the pavement underneath.
Chips: The stuff they spread here in New Hampshire, is a mix of sand and salt. Our sand has enough pebbles (1/8" - 1/4") in it to chip your winshield, never mind the bumper and hood.
Where you live: I live in the country. Several storms from 6"-18". Plows clear the roads but leave an inch of snow, and it's under pinetrees which keep the road in the shade. Turns to ice as it melts and refreezes. I drive an AWD Subaru with Blizzak tires. If you live in a city with better conditions where the streets clear in a day or so, the Miata may be okay. Just don't get off the main roads though where heavy traffic and sun clear the roads.
The Miata's handling characteristics amplify weight changes in the wheel and tires. It really likes light weight wheels and tires. The lower the better.
Basically, at first I dismissed the 2-seater as a poor idea because of not being able to carry over one other passenger. After a while, though, I'm starting to realise that I'm nt that popular of a guy (heh, big surprise there) and I do 90% of my driving with just me, with 87% of it coming to school and back, so screw the other people, I'm interested.
The only problem in getting a Miata lies in the protection from rollover--or lack thereof. My mother is crazy about me rolling the thing and killing myself, and when she gets me thinking about it, I almost get worried. I noticed on the BMW's there is a small black bar that rises above the head of the people driving. Is this protection? Or is the only option a rollbar, which come in two versions: ugly or more ugly?
The second question: about a year ago I saw something about a hard top thst straps onto the top of a Miata. Not so sure about that, but considering after college I may move to Vancouver, a hard top may be a good idea during the rainy season (err....all year). I'm not too confident about moving my convertable to Vancouver where it rains all the time.
If anyone can help out with my two questions, I may actually be able to get one of these. Really, if you didn't pay any attention to this long post until now, I want to know everything you can tell me about the little black bars that come up above the seats on the BMW Z3's. Any information is greatly appreciated.
Anyhow, it's a Limited model, white with tan leather and a tan top. It's got the 15" OE alloys, tape and CD, new tires and new battery. Immaculate condition, enough to pass inspection on the first try. Body and frame are perfect. 2 very minor scratches behind the front license plate, but that's it.
I was extremely happy with the price. Edmunds blue book gives it a retail value of about $11,400, with wholesale at $9,700 or so. I paid $7,800 for it. The owner appeared to be pretty wealthy and just wanted to sell it, I guess. I bought the car the day the ad appeared, just before a competing buyer showed up!
Drove it home and remembered why I've always wanted one of these - FUN! Man, it's like an arcade game come to life! I smiled all the way home, laughing to myself thinking how all these other people on the road aren't enjoying themselves nearly as much!
We have 3 vehicles, so it's perfect. My snow/utility/beach driving vehicle is a Forester, and the wife has a perfectly reliable (read: boring) 626 V6 5-speed. FWD just ain't the same, even with power.
Anyway, I'm very excited about it, but I do have some questions:
1) I see the oil filter is on the side of the block, like my old Escort's Mazda engine. There appears to be a cover underneath. Any suggestions for a DIY oil change? Stick to OE filters or what?
2) What else came on the Limited? Mine has power steering, windows, etc, but what about ABS and the rear LSD? I haven't been able to wring it out yet. Is there a visual cue to tell you what type of rear diffy you have? Guess I could look for the ABS controller under the hood.
3) What simple mods are recommended? That rear sway bar looks mighty wimpy. What about front strut tower braces and such? Easy brake upgrades? I'm thinking chassis, then brakes, and only then engine.
Glad to join the ranks, and can't wait to pick it up from the inspection. I'm taking tomorrow off to drive, er..., I mean do errands!
-juice
-juice
1. Front Grill to protect the radiator
2. New Spark Plugs (NGK)
3. New Plug Wires (NGK)
4. Car Cover
5. Trunk protector for the drivers side.
As far as the oil change, I'd say give it a try where it is, Moss and Brainstorm sell kits to relocate the filter to the firewall. The only problem is there seems to be a chance of leaks with the hoses. I must admit, I really like the looks of the Moss oil cooler/filter relocation kit.
To get some specifics on your Miata call Mazda (find the # on their website) and give them your VIN # they are very helpful.
Good luck and have fun!
Guess I'll wear gloves and long sleeves to change that oil!
Where can I order OE oil filters cheap?
-juice
they were 5.50 each, if you order 6 they are even less. I got the wires, the trunk protector and a haynes manual from them too, ordered them Thursday, got them today.
I got my cover from Moss, got the grill from Duetto.
Here are some links...
http://www.mossmotors.com/
http://home.flash.net/~duetto/
http://www.miata.org/cgi-bin/bsp_home.pl
http://www.teammiata.com/
Check those out, my next order is going to be for CIBIE 7" headlights. From what I've read these lights will eliminate the need for Fogs or Driving lights...
For parts (filters, the wrench, brake pads, etc.), try getting a copy of the Miata magazine that the owners club used to issue six times a year. I can't remember the dealer I used to go to, but they advertised in the magazine, and their prices were 10 - 20% below list. If you're buying something like a tonneau cover (and you should own one, by the way), you can save a significant amount.
Have fun!
I certainly enjoyed my Miatas.
I don't bother with it because I won't keep a car long enough to justify paying 3x more for an oil change.
I used to run Mobil 1 in an E-150 years ago, and never had any problems with extended oil changes. That 300 6 cyl ran over 180K before my exwife traded it away.
I'm using Mobil 1 oil filters also, contrary to what several people here have recommended. I had to go to a Mobil distributor and by a bulk case of 6. They're not readily available at the mass marketing shops. Each filter ended up costing 1/2 of what K-Mart wanted for the more popular sizes!
You might want to check out the synthetic oil topic here at Edmunds for more information, Topic 543 under Maintenance.
Jim M.
Chuck
Gave her a good detailing yesterday (took the day off to register and clean it). It's in really great shape, no dents or dings at all. Looks real good now.
The white paint does have "stains" on it, so I'll have to buff it a bit more next time. Any suggested products for deep cleaning?
The tie down hooks are still on there, so I'll yank them off this weekend. Oil was fresh. Clear, even. Talk about a precision engine.
Impressions? Sorry, no time, gotta go out for a drive...
-juice
-juice
If you really want a concourse (sp?) finish, clay is essential. If you just want to drive the car, take it or leave it. It does work.
More impressions: the heater CRANKS! I mean burn-your-feet type of heat.
Wind noise seems to be best with my window down and the passenger window up. I drive with the top down, always, period. Hasn't rained since I got it!
Is there a way to adjust the seat bottom angle or height on a '93 C package? Any tips for a 6', 205 pounder to get more comfortable?
Called Mazda and mine does have the rear LSD, but no ABS. I'll have to do that test on the diffy.
-juice
-juice
thanks
Amsoil is $8 per quart, and you need about 3.5 for each change (plus if you burn any inbetween). That's kind of steep.
It's probably worth it if you autoX or have enough mods to push the engine real hard.
-juice
As far as your seat goes you can put spacers under the seat frame front or rear to change the angle. Also go to miata.net marketplace & check out lumbar supports. You're never going to have the comfort you get in your Forester.
Chuck
Chuck
leave the top down (of course)
get a tonneau
turn the heat up, vents aimed at your hands ...
I've driven top down on REAL cold days this way and it really limits the discomfort as the tonneau helps direct a constant stream of hot air up over the driver! And boy, the looks you get -- oh, yeah, I put the hood on my jacket up.
Take care.
Joe W.
I like the spacer under the front idea. I'm more comfortable with the front of the seat in a higher position, to support the bottom of my thighs on longer drives. Are the seat tracks easy to access?
David: was that with the stock sway bars? Were you tending towards understeer or oversteer?
Joe: nice to see a familiar face. Well, you get the point.
I have yet to drive it with the top up, and it was about 40 degrees this AM! I have a nice fleece-lined wind breaker and already discovered the vents-at-the-hands trick. No hood, though. Does a hat work?
Where'd you buy your tonneau? I get lots of leaves at home, and it's a pain to keep cleaning them off. I need a cover! Suggestions?
Did get the chance to remove all four tie-down hooks. Rears were easy. Fronts were a pain, had to use a crescent instead of the ratchet to access that last bolt on each side.
What PSI do you guys run in the tires? I got it with 25psi, pumped it up to 33psi. Too hard. Went down to 30psi and it seems to be at a happy medium, with no shimmy at 65mph like some tend to report.
-juice
I am looking to buy a 1.8 miata as a 2nd car for fun and autocrossing, but I only get 1 shot at this as I will soon have significantly higher domestic responsibilities, and the fun funds get clipped.
Any miata autocrossing clubs in the Philly area?
Any tips on models/ years to either skip or focus on?
thanks in advance.
ears.
Sure, a hat works well. But I prefer the hood, so long as you can get one that won't block your vision, because the hood keeps the wind off your neck and ears. Hmmm, maybe a bag with eye-holes cut in it?
This morning there was a little ice on the driveway, but the sun was out and the colors were good in the trees, so I left the radio off (like usual), put on gloves and raised the hood on my jacket and took the long way to work.
Take care.
Joe W.
Here's my summary:
If you want any decent info, such as specs or aftermarket stuff on the vehicle, go to www.miata.net
This is a good forum for pricing and purchasing information.
Big wheels are bad? Bull-loney. You make it sound like the ride degrades to the point that the car is undrivable. I have 17" 'ers on my 97 M Ed. It handles much better than with the stock 15". Some of that is attributable to the Pirelli P7000's. And no, there is no more shimmy than with the stock 15" Bridgerocks. The wheels are a little over 19lbs. About 5 lbs more than stock. But guess what... the tire has less rubber. I'm thinking the net is only 3.5lbs difference.
Roll Bars are bad? What a joke. I hope that people don't take this advice seriously. Unless you leased your miata, you owe it to yourself to consider the bar. And yes, I do have a Hard Dog sport. It looks good and adds confidence to my driving. Resale value. It sounds as if the only consideration should be trade-in value. If you need to sell your miata, I strongly advise not trading it in. A potential miata enthusiast is surely looking to buy your car and will appreciate safety accessories. Many vendors have ceased selling the "style bars", I support their decisions.
Now when it comes to adding a forced induction system to the miata, we are talking about another story. That represents a major alteration to the mechanicals of the vehicle and CAN reduce the life of the engine. However a simple intake system such as the Jackson CAI or the Racing Beat intake is a bolt-on item and can be removed.
Yes, the six speed makes ZERO sense. I don't know why Mazda bothered.
By the way, there was no 1998 miata.
Anyone who owns a pre '99 miata should advance their engine timing. It's free power. It works. It's not much work and can be reversed in the winter when reformulated fuel will be more likely to induce knocking. I suggest 14 degress before top dead center. If you go past that you may lose some low-end torque and will definitely need 89 or better octane. Experiment. A timing light is only $20 or $30.
Yes, I have owned several Miata(s). They all had their strengths and weaknesses. I can't believe that Mazda felt it necessary to change the styling of the 2nd generation miatas already. This is proof positive that the M1 was virtually a timeless design (9 model years has to be close to a modern mass-production record) and the M2 is just another jellybean.
Yes, this is a rant, in the Dennis Miller style, but Monday Night Football just ended. This forum really needs some stirring. I have been a poster on edmunds for a couple of years, just not over here.
Thank you for your time and patience.
Ace
Actually, I'll be looking for a nice British cap to wear. A baseball hat just doesn't do the experience justice. Maybe some driving gloves, too. Any suggestions?
Ace: 3.5 lbs sounds like nothing, but you've increased unsprung weight by well over 20%. As they say, YMMV.
Also, from my research, just about everyone that sells roll bars also sells style bars.
Anyone have instructions to set the timing? With photos, I mean?
-juice