http://www.mazdastuff.com/ should be able to get you replacement springs for your Miata. Not sure if they will ship to Brazil, but you could e-mail them and check.
Thanks boggse, I'll send mazdastuff an email. I had looked there too and they didn't have the springs listed on their website, maybe they'll send me the info by email. As for shipping, I usually ship it to my brother in Boston and have him send it to me. That is legally simpler and cheaper than shipping direct - you should be happy and proud because you guys have it very easy there in the states... Abraço, gts
Why not post a wanted ad on Miata.net to see if anyone who has replaced their stock springs with aftermarket will send the old one to you for the cost of shipping? They shouldn't wear out if the car is not abused.
Thanks kymike. I'll probably succumb to that idea if I have to go for the shocks. Still no one with any experience in spring lifters... My only concern about asking for used springs is that if I get a pair down here that is still "low" I'll never know if it is the car or the springs (and it will still take some 30 days to get to me) Well, in any case, I still have the passat... gts
If you ask about lowered Miatas, I bet a handful of people would respond.
With the spacers, my concern would be that the springs are well seated and could not be knocked loose. I doubt anyone makes customized ones for the Miata, so this would be tough.
I'd try the new shocks first, then maybe tires with a softer sidewall, and tire pressure around 26-28psi, no higher.
You may be experiencing what is called "bump-steer" and this could be related to very poor front end alignment. You should get the car aligned first off before you start replacing bushings, etc. While they are doing the alignment they can check the front end, probably for no extra charge.
Hi, I have to sell my "94 laguna blue w/ 62,000 miles. It's in great shape and I'm trying to figure out what a fair price is. It's the A pkg and it has new tires, lighted rearview mirror, roll bar, power remote door locks. I've heard that the laguna blue makes it more valuable. I've also heard that blue book values or Edmund's values tend to be low. I'd really appreciate any suggestions as I want to be fair to both the buyer and myself. I live in Florida. There are pics at this address, which should be one line: http://photos.yahoo.com/bc/deepdrop/lst?.dir=/Miata&.src=ph&a- mp;.order=&.view=t&.done=http%3a//photos.yahoo.com/
It probably helps that you're in Florida, but I believe the Edmunds TMV takes that into account. You might want to calculate the TMV and the KBB values and go with what makes you feel comfortable.
As a shopper, I used Edmunds values and then went to look at the ones priced at or below, then bought the one in best condition that I could find, i.e. a good car at a good price. Be careful not to price yourself out of the market.
Edmunds and KBB tend to be low? I've only heard that from salesman trying to rip me off. I find Edmunds tends to be only slightly high, whereas KBB is ridiculously high. Every used car transaction in which I have been involved, whether as a buyer or a seller has been below Edmunds prices and well below KBB.
If you think KBB values are low, you aren't ever going to sell that car if you price it higher than KBB. They are full retail.
Edmunds TMV tends to be very hard-nosed realistic and I think you could squeeze more money out of the car than TMV if it's the right car in the right place.
I've been waffling around about getting a ragtop - Boxster vs. S2000 vs. Z-3, etc. for a while - some of you have even responded to my posts on other boards before.
I'm coming to the conclusion that for 14 to 15 K$ a pristine 2001 Miata will deliver most all the driving experience, without the high insurance and maintanence costs of the others and at about half the entry fee. What's not to like?
Well, for one thing, the last time I drove one, which was around 2 years ago, I felt like the top of my head was sticking up an inch or two above the top of the windshield and taking more of a beating than I'd like. A ball cap wouldn't stay on my head.
Is there any way to lower the driver's seat a couple of inches? I'm 6 feet and 185 lbs., and fit in the car OK otherwise.
One other thing - how do you all feel about the sport susp. pkg? Worth it in terms of ride quality trade-off?
I could pull the trigger on a $15K Miata without any guilt pangs, which I've so far been unable to do on any of the more expensive competition, even though I could afford them. I guess that should tell me something, huh?
I wonder if you could rent one somewhere to get a good feel for it. Or if a place like CarMax would allow an extended test drive.
I have actually raised the front of the seat track to give me better thigh support. I don't see how you could lower it and maintain safety/integrity for the seat.
FWIW, I'm about 5'11.5" and 208 lbs and I fit OK. Even the type of shoe I wear makes a difference, the smaller the better. Mocassins, yes, boots, no way.
I'm 6 feet and am able to keep a ball cap on at highway speeds, although I've got a first generation Miata so the seating position may be a bit different. One thing that really helps with turbulence is a wind blocker.
Also, if you want more of a retro sports car feel, you may also want to consider a very low mileage 90-97 Miata and save some additional $$$. The cars are extremely reliable and you should be able to find a near perfect one for under $10k U.S. You can also have some fun working on and/or customizing an older one if you are into that kind of thing. When I was looking for mine my preference was a 2nd generation model, but now that I have my 90, I wouldn't go back.
I recently purchased a 99 miata with 37K miles and would like comments from the gurus around here.
I washed/waxed my car this past weekend and noticed some bleeding of the paint. I used Nu-Finish liquid polish and noted some redness on my applicator pad. I had used the polish on my 98 4runner for the past 4 years without any problems. Unfortunately, I was stubborn and proceeded to polish the whole car. After looking online at miata.net and saw another person had the same problem with Nu-finish, I continued to be unsettled and proceeded the next day to wash the car with Dawn detergent to wash the Nu-finish off and applied 2 layers of Zymol liquid polish. The car however still has swirl marks. The paint still looks good, but if you look closely, you can see swirl marks. The car has not been repainted, as there were chips in the paint that suggests no paint job had been done over the past 3 years. Am I correct in assuming this car has a clear coat and the bleeding should not have occurred? Has anyone else experienced this problem and any insight into Mazda's paint warranty?
In addition, the Check Engine Light came on at approximately 200 miles after my purchase. I bought the car at a good price and the car was purchased on a "As-is" basis, which meant the car was out warranty coverage. I brought the car to the local Mazda dealer and the diagnosed the problem to be excess "Exhaust Gas Recalculation" flow, which is common to the 99+ miatas. Luckily, the dealer was honest and informed me the service was covered under the federally-mandated period of 8yr/80K miles for emissions components. Anyone with the same diagnosis should be aware of the warranty limits and should not be pay for the repair service.
that's a good heads up about the emissions stuff - back in the day I spent a fair number of $ replacing a defective ignition system (big surprise!) on my girlfriend's Spitfire, THEN found out it was covered under the separate emissions warranty and the dealer would have to have done it for free.
Thanks stangelj for the comments - I've since test driven a 2001 without any big problems with turbulence - my cap stayed on OK! so I don't know what the deal was the other time, maybe I was just in a cranky mood.
I've made an offer of $14K on the 2001, supposed to hear from the seller today. I've got a feeling that may not cover this young couple's loan balance, so I'm not too hopeful. If they do decline my offer, I may look at earlier model years.
I was looking for a 2001-on based on the HP increase that came along then - but I'd appreciate any info on earlier models, how they compare, what to look out for, etc.
On the paint, I've come to the conclusion that with clear coated finishes you're better off just keeping it clean and not putting anything on there. But I'm far from an expert in that area.
Your 90 Miata is in very good shape! Looking at your pictures, I was wondering if you installed that steering wheel? If you did, where did you get the wheel, what car is it off of, how much did it cost, and how difficult was it to install? Also, do you know how to disconnect the airbag warning light? My Miata is a 92. Since the airbag light is indicating a malfunction and the leather wrap is literally turning to powder on the top of the wheel, I figured a replacement to a non-airbag wheel like yours would make sense. I would appreciate any insight. Thanks.
Its been a few months since I got my new miata. So far so good. Though in hindsight I wish I did look around till I found one with a sports pkg.
Does anybody know any good shops in Orlando that can install a roll bar for a miata. I called up the mazda dealer right now and they said if the hard dog roll bar is DOT certified they could. Which indicates they have never done this type of work and I want someone who has experience workin on keepin my head from the road
Also I have the Bose audio which is so so. I really would like to get some high quality sound in this car. Any ideas?
So if any of you guys got any suggestions please let me know.
Hard Dog bars are SCCA approved, but I do not know about DOT. Do you autocross or run your Miata on tracks? I was just curious as to why you want the roll bar. They can be an inconvenience when lowering and raising the top. The best place to find out about local shops is through a local club. Here is a link to the Miata club directory:
As for the upgrading the Bose system, you can simply replace the speakers with better ones, but keep in mind that the stock Bose door speakers are 1 ohm impedance, so solutions for this are hard to find. Most people end up replacing the head unit and speakers and adding an amp. A good vendor for 20 cm (to replace the 6x8s) door speakers is:
I was considering a roll bar until it was pointed out to me that roll bars are intended for racing with a helmeted driver. Since few people wear a helmet when street driving, a roll bar can actually be a hazard. Something to consider.
Nope don't do anything other than street driving. Roll bars mainly to increase the safety level. Heard it helps makes the car more rigid thru forums. Not sure if there is any truth to it or not. But I would guess having a roll bar that ties up the middle portion of the car should help.
Fred: Roll bars should be useful in street driving in the event of a roll over. Otherwise why would so many other convertibles have them stock from the factory?
From what people are saying on another big Miata forum, it will be a turbo 1.8L with about 170-185 HP. Of course, it will have upgraded suspension, exhaust, etc., and custom paint colors (until they decide to make them standard, like the Titanium Gray in 2004). Let's hope they avoid the Spicy Orange they used on the Protege. I will be curious as to whether they put in a better stereo. It should be available late fall if you believe the rumor mill. Details are few and far between. They are also supposedly coming out with a Mazdaspeed 6 and RX-8 within the next year or so.
I'm curious as to why the miata mazdaspeed will be so underpowered. 170-180 hp sure isn't much given that the car produces almost 150 before adding the turbo. I'd expect at least around 200. you plop 200 hp and 200 lb-ft in a rwd little toy like that and you're gonna have some neck-snapping fun.
Stock Miatas put out 142 HP. A 40 HP increase is pretty significant in a 2400 lb car. I imagine that they are limited in what they can do since it is already a high compression engine.
Pretty much the problem with the MSP is the turbo lag. When the turbo kicks in, the front LSD can't handle it, so torque steer is inevitable. I would think a MS Miata to be a better platform to start with, so I wouldn't expect the same sort of problems.
Good point, Collin. I suspect that is the difference betwen the aftermarket roll bars and the factory ones. The factory ones are designed for street use and are lower. The hoops on things like Boxsters and Z3/4s are below the seat top. Aftermarket ones such as hard dogs are designed to meet SCCA standards, which probably assume a helmeted driver. Anyhow, I'm not an expert in this just throwing out things to consider. BTW, in the spirit of closing the barn door after the horse has gotten out, I've decided to stop using my name in internet postings. Many of you know me by my former username which was dgraves1.
Depends on how tall you are. If you are really tall and have to put the seat all the way back in a Miata, the roll-bar could be a hazard. My girlfriend is short enough where the only chance she would have of hitting the hard-dog sport bar with her head would be if she came out of the seat, which in a crash would probably lethal roll-bar or not. I have to sit a bit cramped if I want to drive her car and not worry about my skull.
You can't predict the dynamics of an accident, that's true, but more likely than not, your skull is going to contact the bar even if you are tiny. If you think about how people's shoes get ripped off, or how their heads bend the headrests, I don't see why the body couldn't be elevated enough to hit the bar. I'd rather contact the soft top braces with my head than 2" steel pipe.
It is not about how high your head would have to travel, it is about whether or not the bar is over your head. With the seat adjusted to how my girl likes it, the bar is far enough behind the seat where even if she came right out of the top of the car she wouldn't hit her head on it.
Even with the seat pushed all the way back, the bar is only just over the back of the headrest.
Did you ask the previous owner/dealer if there was anything wrong with the vehicle before you purchased it? If not, now may be a good time to do so. At the very least, find out if it has ever been to a Mazda dealer and which one, so you could take a look at the maintenance records.
Some auto parts stores will scan the code for you for free. Advanced Auto Parts, was it? I don't remember for sure.
It's just a symptom. Could be a loose gas cap or a bad 02 sensor. Even a single misfire could trigger it.
If it's running smoothly, you could reset the ECU. Disconnect the battery, step on the brakes to use up any residual power. Then reconnect, start her up and let her idle until warm.
Recently I had overheat problem so I replaces the water pump, radiator, thermostat, water hose. One week later I found the coolant bottle is full to the cap and coolant level on radiator is low.
I tried to add coolant to radiator again but coolant flew to coolant bottle when engin is hot but did not flew back when engin is cold. Can not figure it out why at this moment.
Over the weekend I got some spring lifters made from Nylon and installed into my Miata ("Penelope" for those who know her). The car is now 1 inch higher than when I acquired it and back to spec height. It is also handling much better than it did before (my advice to anyone who drives on anything other than perfect asphalt: do NOT lower your car!). I'll remove the spring lifters when I get my new springs delivered (in about 60 days...) but until then I think this will be an interesting experiment. I'll let you know if anything goes wrong. Now that this is done, I am moving to the next step. This weekend, for the first time, I've removed the hardtop and found out how much less rigid the car becomes (particularly in the less then perfect asphalt). I remember reading in some forum (or in miata.net) about somebody that used a foam inside the chassis to stiffen the body. Does any one have experience on this? Where can I buy it? Has anyone had trouble with this? Thanks for any tips or advice. Cheers, gts - a now happier miata owner
None of the work itself - shop too dirty to take a lent camera... The installation is pretty simple and the whole thing cost a LOT less than the new springs I bought. The toughest part was getting the pieces made out of a solid block of nylon. I really whish I had found some plastiprene instead. I've been told it is much more resistant in the long term... I'll send you some pics of the lifters in place. I think they look good.
I have an offer on an '01 BRG, and its about 600 miles away! I've never done a long distance deal before - any advice besides checking the VIN on Carfax? The car only has 10K mi. so I'm not too concerned about mechanical issues. My phone conversations with the seller give me the strong impression he's a regular guy - if he's scamming he's REALLY good. He says he has Miata America (or some such) financing, through the local dealer - I guess we'll need to go there to exchange $, paperwork -will they be able to produce the final title document there (in Calif.) or is it OK to accept a receipt and get title through the mail? I'll be paying cash. Thanks for any advice.
Comments
As for shipping, I usually ship it to my brother in Boston and have him send it to me. That is legally simpler and cheaper than shipping direct - you should be happy and proud because you guys have it very easy there in the states...
Abraço,
gts
-juice
I'll probably succumb to that idea if I have to go for the shocks. Still no one with any experience in spring lifters... My only concern about asking for used springs is that if I get a pair down here that is still "low" I'll never know if it is the car or the springs (and it will still take some 30 days to get to me)
Well, in any case, I still have the passat...
gts
With the spacers, my concern would be that the springs are well seated and could not be knocked loose. I doubt anyone makes customized ones for the Miata, so this would be tough.
I'd try the new shocks first, then maybe tires with a softer sidewall, and tire pressure around 26-28psi, no higher.
-juice
I have to sell my "94 laguna blue w/ 62,000 miles. It's in great shape and I'm trying to figure out what a fair price is. It's the A pkg and it has new tires, lighted rearview mirror, roll bar, power remote door locks. I've heard that the laguna blue makes it more valuable. I've also heard that blue book values or Edmund's values tend to be low. I'd really appreciate any suggestions as I want to be fair to both the buyer and myself. I live in Florida. There are pics at this address, which should be one line:
http://photos.yahoo.com/bc/deepdrop/lst?.dir=/Miata&.src=ph&a- mp;.order=&.view=t&.done=http%3a//photos.yahoo.com/
As a shopper, I used Edmunds values and then went to look at the ones priced at or below, then bought the one in best condition that I could find, i.e. a good car at a good price. Be careful not to price yourself out of the market.
-juice
Edmunds TMV tends to be very hard-nosed realistic and I think you could squeeze more money out of the car than TMV if it's the right car in the right place.
I'm coming to the conclusion that for 14 to 15 K$ a pristine 2001 Miata will deliver most all the driving experience, without the high insurance and maintanence costs of the others and at about half the entry fee. What's not to like?
Well, for one thing, the last time I drove one, which was around 2 years ago, I felt like the top of my head was sticking up an inch or two above the top of the windshield and taking more of a beating than I'd like. A ball cap wouldn't stay on my head.
Is there any way to lower the driver's seat a couple of inches? I'm 6 feet and 185 lbs., and fit in the car OK otherwise.
One other thing - how do you all feel about the sport susp. pkg? Worth it in terms of ride quality trade-off?
I could pull the trigger on a $15K Miata without any guilt pangs, which I've so far been unable to do on any of the more expensive competition, even though I could afford them. I guess that should tell me something, huh?
I have actually raised the front of the seat track to give me better thigh support. I don't see how you could lower it and maintain safety/integrity for the seat.
FWIW, I'm about 5'11.5" and 208 lbs and I fit OK. Even the type of shoe I wear makes a difference, the smaller the better. Mocassins, yes, boots, no way.
-juice
Also, if you want more of a retro sports car feel, you may also want to consider a very low mileage 90-97 Miata and save some additional $$$. The cars are extremely reliable and you should be able to find a near perfect one for under $10k U.S. You can also have some fun working on and/or customizing an older one if you are into that kind of thing. When I was looking for mine my preference was a 2nd generation model, but now that I have my 90, I wouldn't go back.
http://miata.cardomain.com/id/stangelj
I washed/waxed my car this past weekend and noticed some bleeding of the paint. I used Nu-Finish liquid polish and noted some redness on my applicator pad. I had used the polish on my 98 4runner for the past 4 years without any problems. Unfortunately, I was stubborn and proceeded to polish the whole car. After looking online at miata.net and saw another person had the same problem with Nu-finish, I continued to be unsettled and proceeded the next day to wash the car with Dawn detergent to wash the Nu-finish off and applied 2 layers of Zymol liquid polish. The car however still has swirl marks. The paint still looks good, but if you look closely, you can see swirl marks. The car has not been repainted, as there were chips in the paint that suggests no paint job had been done over the past 3 years. Am I correct in assuming this car has a clear coat and the bleeding should not have occurred? Has anyone else experienced this problem and any insight into Mazda's paint warranty?
In addition, the Check Engine Light came on at approximately 200 miles after my purchase. I bought the car at a good price and the car was purchased on a "As-is" basis, which meant the car was out warranty coverage. I brought the car to the local Mazda dealer and the diagnosed the problem to be excess "Exhaust Gas Recalculation" flow, which is common to the 99+ miatas. Luckily, the dealer was honest and informed me the service was covered under the federally-mandated period of 8yr/80K miles for emissions components. Anyone with the same diagnosis should be aware of the warranty limits and should not be pay for the repair service.
I appreciate any advice.
Thanks stangelj for the comments - I've since test driven a 2001 without any big problems with turbulence - my cap stayed on OK! so I don't know what the deal was the other time, maybe I was just in a cranky mood.
I've made an offer of $14K on the 2001, supposed to hear from the seller today. I've got a feeling that may not cover this young couple's loan balance, so I'm not too hopeful. If they do decline my offer, I may look at earlier model years.
I was looking for a 2001-on based on the HP increase that came along then - but I'd appreciate any info on earlier models, how they compare, what to look out for, etc.
On the paint, I've come to the conclusion that with clear coated finishes you're better off just keeping it clean and not putting anything on there. But I'm far from an expert in that area.
Never heard that about the paint, but now I'll never buy Nu-Finish, tell you that much.
-juice
Does anybody know any good shops in Orlando that can install a roll bar for a miata. I called up the mazda dealer right now and they said if the hard dog roll bar is DOT certified they could. Which indicates they have never done this type of work and I want someone who has experience workin on keepin my head from the road
Also I have the Bose audio which is so so. I really would like to get some high quality sound in this car. Any ideas?
So if any of you guys got any suggestions please let me know.
Thanks
TJ
PS: The new RX8 looks sweet!
http://www.miata.net/clubs/
As for the upgrading the Bose system, you can simply replace the speakers with better ones, but keep in mind that the stock Bose door speakers are 1 ohm impedance, so solutions for this are hard to find. Most people end up replacing the head unit and speakers and adding an amp. A good vendor for 20 cm (to replace the 6x8s) door speakers is:
http://www.wolfmiata.com
Head Units and amps can be found at numerous places.
Fred: Roll bars should be useful in street driving in the event of a roll over. Otherwise why would so many other convertibles have them stock from the factory?
if it is in any way possible for your HEAD to hit it while belted in and flopping around during an accident, DON'T install it for street use.
if there's no possible way your head could strike it, you're fine for non-helmeted use.
-Colin
The MazdaSpeed Protoge's engine is not the smoothest, at least I've heard.
-juice
Anyhow, I'm not an expert in this just throwing out things to consider.
BTW, in the spirit of closing the barn door after the horse has gotten out, I've decided to stop using my name in internet postings. Many of you know me by my former username which was dgraves1.
;-)
-Colin
-juice
Even with the seat pushed all the way back, the bar is only just over the back of the headrest.
It's just a symptom. Could be a loose gas cap or a bad 02 sensor. Even a single misfire could trigger it.
If it's running smoothly, you could reset the ECU. Disconnect the battery, step on the brakes to use up any residual power. Then reconnect, start her up and let her idle until warm.
Check the Miata.net garage for other tips.
-juice
Z5 is made to hide the swirls. Just keep layering it on until all the swirls are gone. Great stuff.
I tried to add coolant to radiator again but coolant flew to coolant bottle when engin is hot but did not flew back when engin is cold. Can not figure it out why at this moment.
I found plenty of advice on Miata.net, but no photos. I'll try to take photos when I do it myself.
It is leaking, slowly, but surely. It's lost about 1/4" in the fluid level in the month or so since I topped it off.
-juice
Now that this is done, I am moving to the next step. This weekend, for the first time, I've removed the hardtop and found out how much less rigid the car becomes (particularly in the less then perfect asphalt). I remember reading in some forum (or in miata.net) about somebody that used a foam inside the chassis to stiffen the body. Does any one have experience on this? Where can I buy it? Has anyone had trouble with this?
Thanks for any tips or advice.
Cheers,
gts - a now happier miata owner
-juice
He says he has Miata America (or some such) financing, through the local dealer - I guess we'll need to go there to exchange $, paperwork -will they be able to produce the final title document there (in Calif.) or is it OK to accept a receipt and get title through the mail? I'll be paying cash.
Thanks for any advice.