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Comments
Similar deal..my fees and taxes (6.25%) were included in the deal, 27.5k OTD, including the appearance package (mud guards, pinstripes, wheel locks, trunk tray); it was an automatic as well.
In any event, I think the best way to negotiate is by making an offer that is $200 to $500 below what you think they will go for. Ultimately, the closer you come to their real bottom line, the more serious they will take you. For example, what if you knew a dealership could sell an Accord for $23,200 - and you write their internet sales department and offer them 23,200 -- and you include a detailed explanation of exactly how you get to that number. That gives them very little wiggle room and indicates to the salesman that you know your stuff. That, in my opinion, is the best way to negotiate (because there is very little negotiation). However, since we virtually never know the exact number at which a dealership will sell a vehicle, then you have to play a bit of a game and go slightly below the amount for which you believe the dealer is willing to give up the vehicle. In this kind of negotiation where the dealer has a fixed bottom line, you want to be forced to move as little as possible from your original number. The more you move, the more you indicate that you 1) weren't serious in the first place and 2) didn't have a realistic idea what the car can be sold for. [The fact that the bottom line is fixed at a relatively well-defined number greatly affects the way you negotiate a new car deal as compared with other types of negotiations -- its even different than negotiating on used cars -- particularly older used cars.]
Unlike many other negotiations, when negotiating the price of a new car, most of the factors which go into the dealer's bottom line can be known by the buyer. That's a huge advantage to the buyer.
One final thing -- be courteous and reasonable. But, having said that, also make sure the salesman knows that you are willing to walk away. Make damn sure you known what "fair" is -- and then, if a salesman pulls something on you that isn't fair - just walk away. Buyers get too embarrassed or too set on owning a specific car to simply walk away. If a buyer overcomes that simple tendency, they are way ahead of the game.
Oh yea --- Good luck! Luck never hurts!
I wouldn't say that any dealer cant macth or beat the price - we simply dont need to. Currently RB is in last place for sales volume (04/25), so they are trying to ramp up some volume business. As I said, it's a good store filled with good people. You are getting a great deal and as a consumer I dont fault you one bit.
Congrats on your Accord.
Make sure they have the color instock!
Make sure you get a complete OTD value before anything. Then make a deal!
On the day you should pick the car up, call the dealer and tell them you just got a call back from X dealer and they dropped the price another $100.00. Odds are they to will drop the price another $100.00 to keep the business.
As for your Nitro, good luck. I'm sorry but the value of those tank as soon as you drive it off the lot
Remeber, advice is free and your are free to spend your money however you wish.
Happy shopping
If you want to buy, take invoice less incentive and less 2% of MSRP and add $200-300 profit for the dealer back onto it. Offer them that for the Pilot, destination, and any and all dealer prep or doc fees. That, to me, is a reasonable offer for a guzzler in $4 gallon times AND a replacement due next month. If the dealer does not find that reasonable, well what did you expect
And never be afraid to "insult" a dealer, they are used to that
Dennis
If you buy a new car and then want to dump it after 4.5 months you WILL get hosed big time. What did you expect? Mopar can't give them away, but yours USED will hold good value? You will either take a beating on it or will just have to drive it and hope and some time you can get out from under it. It is worse with a car that does not hold value well, but even a new Honda would kill you if you decided to trade it after 4.5 months. If you change your mind, then you have to pay - in almost every case.
And yes, making a ridiculous offer does make you look like a fool - but at least you said you feel better
Dennis
Accessories are usually big rip offs and I have seen folks who got great deals on the vehicle get taken on the add ons and them maybe even sign for an extended warranty for 2x or more than what the dealer pays! You can check the prices for this stuff at H and A or other online Honda dealers and even ebay. For the stuff you don't want to install yourself, you have to decide what it is worth to have it done and that plus discounted price would be what you should pay. The other stuff just "do it yourself" and save.
If you want to support CR and pay them $14 that is up to you, they are a worthy group - but the info you need to get a great deal is available without spending that money.
Dennis
Thanks for the tips and I have looked everywhere edmunds,carsdirect, etc. I'm picking mine up at 8:30 in the morning and feel I got a good price of 23,263 OTD that I can live with.... thanks everyone!
That's a really good price for a EXL I4 AT.
It would be clear if they would post the total minus only the taxes and license fee.
Doc fee is really part of the selling price.
I gotta feed MY kids, too !
My experiences with Internet buying are this - largely worthless.
I e-mailed dealers in LA, Inland Empire, Phoenix, Dallas, Houston, Miami, Atlanta, and the price difference from the highest to the lowest was about $250. Whoopee.
EXCEPT FOR - Inland Empire - they were ALL about $900 lower than ALL the other dealers - WHY ?
I have been in LOTS of showrooms the last 3 weeks, and I can tell you they are largely deserted, void of buyers. WHY ? Yep - Honda dealers too ! You don't have to lower the price because you 'don't need to' ? Fine by me, I can save a lot of money at just about any other make of car dealer, and I will.
Will that car be 'as good as' a Honda ?
Well, anymore, probably. Five - and even three years ago you could argue that, today I'm not so sure. I can buy a Fusion that has more options than an Accord for $5,000+ less. No, it's not a Honda, it's a Ford, today I'm not so sure that matters much anymore.
I'm in dallas, TX. Got the lowest internet quote $23,160 (just included destination, but without TTL). Asked the next two low quote $23,500. They said can not match and it is unreal. I drive to a dealer nearby. They have one in stock with appearance package. I asked $23,500. initially they didn't agree. But called me after i back home and agreed on that price. Is this a fair price for EXL 4I sedan w/o navigation?
So let me get this straight... you made an offer and the agreed... now you are questioning your offer?
You on the other hand, have not added value to any discussion here. I presume you live in the L.A. basin, why would email Houston, Miami and Atlanta? Why waste their time with your price shopping? ALL of the information for pricing can be found with a quick search on the internet. The smart public, like the readers here, know almost to the penny what we own cars for and what little hidden incentive Honda is offering to dealers.
"My experiences with Internet buying are this - largely worthless." How could you say that? In the very next sentenace you say that Honda in Victorville or San Bernadino is $900.00 cheaper then anyone across the country (let the buyer beware).
I've got news for you - six of the top ten Honda dealers in the country are less then three hours from downtown L.A. (04/26) the number one being West Covina. Honda once again is going to have a record month for volume. It's only the 180th month in a row for growth.
"I can buy a Fusion that has more options than an Accord for $5,000+ less. No, it's not a Honda, it's a Ford, today I'm not so sure that matters much anymore."
Your right - TODAY it doesn't matter, five years down the road with 80,000 miles on it?
Good luck being a professional shopper.
Car $25,663
NJ Tax 1,804 7%
MV Fee 334 NJ requires 4 year registration on new cars
Doc Fee 199
Total $28,000
They included a 3 year lost key/appearance protection thing. Only value might be the free key replacement as apparently the new keys are quite expensive if you lose one.
The dealer was Hudson Honda in West New York, NJ. I thought they were very reasonable and honest. A couple of other dealers I talked to I felt weren't completely on the up and up.
Car: 23100.00
Doc Fee: 299.00
MV Fee: 299.00
Sales Tax(NYC 8.375%): 1935.97
TOTAL OUT THE DOOR:$25,650
The car included the mud flaps, wheel locks and the 3 year paint/interior and key replacement warranty. Is this a good deal ???
08 ACCORD EX-L V6 with a rear deck spoiler (added at N/C)
Graphite Grey (dark metalic silver) with Grey leather interior
We leased for 36 months, 12K per yer.
MSRP: $28,695.00
Residual valve $17,217.00
60% residual with 12K miles/yr
Money Factor of .002450 (5.88%) - this is the BUY rate for Super preferred credit (over 710 beacon score)
Selling price $26,105.00 ($300.00 back of invoice)
We gave a check for $3,700.00 - this included 1st mo payment,
assignment fee (bank fee) of $595.00
Doc fee of $45.00
Tax, title & license fees
Cap cost reduction of $3,149.41
TOTAL CAP COST = $23,572.59
Monthly payment of $277.18 PLUS 8.25% cali tax of $22.87 = $300.05
WE FEEL GREAT, THE PROCESS WAS PAINLESS AND WE GOT IT FROM WOODLAND HILLS HONDA IN WOODLAND HILLS, CALIF
WE LOVE IT !!!!
Has anyone had a good experience going through the Costco buying program? Obviously the internet department is not the way to go any longer.
The cap cost reduction came from the sale of an older car to CARMAX.
I know you should put as little down as possible but in this instance we needed the payment to be at specific #
Oh and the lease comes with GAP insurance/protection already included.
In past experience, we have sold Honda's at lease end to CARMAX and gotten MORE than what the residual valve was (ie: built in equity to be used for the next lease)
In 3 years we will most probably rol into another HONDA unless something else catches our eye.
car: exl I4 AT sedan silver with gray leather. including paint and fabric sealant, mud guard, wheel lock and trunk tray.
price 23500
OTD price 25211 (6.25% TX tax)
I tend to keep cars for 10 years. My new 08 V6 4dr w/nav & rear spoiler cost me:
$27,979 Car (with destination charge)
$368 Dealer fees (Tempe Honda)
$600 Spoiler
$995 8 year/120K $0 deductable Honda Care Extended Warranty
$1350 intrest (3 yr @3.5, Navy Federal Credit Union)
$1679 Tax
$138 Idaho DMV Plates
Free Window Tent
Free Splash Guards
Free Ingation Key (wife tends to loose one some where down the road
guessing it holds 30% after 10 years I have about $10,000 in assets, again if my math is correct in the 10 years you will spend about $40,000 and not have any value in a car. Why is leasing better? Is just so you can drive a nicer car for a short period of time and have a nicer car every 3 years? or is there some sort of personal business you have that you get to write off some % of the car expense only if you are leasing? Anyone expleain why leaseing is a better way to go or how it is less expensive than buying... at least for Honda's?
When did you buy it? Your loan rate is exciting. How can one apply to become a member at Navy Credit Union? Thanks.
I bought on 29 March this year... The rate is still on for now, just checked tonight. As far as becoming a member go to the link below and see if you can become a member.
http://www.navyfcu.org/about/membership_eligible.html
Car: 23200.00
Doc Fee: 250.00
MV Fee: 59
Sales Tax(5%): 715.00 (I had a 9000.00 trade in value in my old car)
TOTAL OUT THE DOOR:$24224.00
I am also looking to buy 2008 Accord LX-P from South Bay area. Did you make any progress on your search and could you please let me know what is the best quote you have got for the car and from which dealer?
Thanks
Aman
I am looking at the EX-L, but I am not sure if I want the 4 or 6 cylinder. I am set on the EX-L because I definitely want leather and I definitely want the sunroof. I also already have a satellite radio subscription, so I would want that in the vehicle as well. The real question comes in here:
My father has very good credit, and I've agreed to put $3,000 down as my payment into the car... Do you think I'd be able to get at least the EX-L I4, 12k miles per year for 36 months for less than $300/month with the $3,000 down at signing? Any possibility on the V6?
Car Price - 25452.00
Doc fee - 199.00
Tax to be paid(MO)
Other accessories like Mud guard, Pin Strips are included.
Place of Purchase - St. Louis, MO
Final price paid is 25651(w/o tax)
I think this is the best one can squeeze out from Honda dealer for V6. I might be wrong, but anyway, I am happy to be proud owner of another Accord V6.
Hope this helps to all are planning to buy new accord.
Enjoy and Drive Safe!
Dealer 1:
EX-L w/Nav Price $24,516*
EX-L Price $22,528*
EX Price $20,821*
Dealer 2:
EX-L W/ NAVI
$28,060
*E-Price $25,424
Dealer 3:
EX-L W/O NAVI
$24,177.98
All of these are 4 cyl Models. Obviously dealer 1 has the best price! Goes to show the difference in prices among dealers. I may ink with dealer 1 tomorrow.
They may tell you:
Sorry, it just sold to someone else and it's the only one at that price.
It's a demo with 5K miles.
Plus destination charge, options, and $900 doc fee.
Typo.
Misunderstanding about nav or not nav.
I don't mind waiting for the car I want, especially one without all the dealer add ons like the ugly pin stripes all the dealers are adding here (priced from $300 to $600!). From other postings it looks like invoice or slightly higher is the going price for coupes, is that still achievable for a rare combination?
thanks
"The oldest e-trick in the book" is to quote prices w/o destination and / or the dealer's high doc fee. You get on the lot ready to buy and they "remember" to add them back onto the price they gave you.
If they will not give you the answer or give you a complete quote, then don't bother going onto their lot.
Dennis
I love to lease, but it is not for everyone - and you are a prime example
Most folks buy a new car INTENDING to drive it forever but they get the new car itch in just a few years. They get ripped on their trade an maybe roll some negative equity into their new deal. They keep doing this every few years and while they get to drive a new car every few years, they are doing it the "wrong way" and wasting money. If they leased - for sure at a nice, cheap promotional rate (my wife's new Pilot is 0.34% effective) then they come out ahead and they have no risk on future value. Sure, if you drive the value out of the new car you get your money's worth, but if the value of your new car tanks (the Pilot if gas is $6 a gallon at lease end) you simply turn it in and get something else. If you the value holds and the car is worth more and at lease end, then you can buy it at that time and keep it - or sell it to a call dealer to make a little money.
I am always amazed at folks talking bad about leasing and when I quiz them about their car buying habits it turns out they over pay for their new cars and get ripped on their trade ins. Heck, some even buy cars from CarMax and you know what a rip-off that place is.
Not for everyone and not for you, but for folks who don't drive too many miles and trade cars every few years anyway it can be quite a deal.
What is a Navy man doing in Idaho
Dennis
Has anyone had a good experience going through the Costco buying program? Obviously the internet department is not the way to go any longer.
Anyone out there in Houston with recent 08 Accord EXL (4-cyl) automatic, no navi purchase experience? Out the door (including all fees TTL prices)
How far to Shreveport, LA are you? Holmes Honda seems to have some pretty nice prices and may be worth a trip. I got on their e-mail list when shopping for my 05 S2000 3 years ago, but ended up getting it elsewhere.
Dennis