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Lucky. CA checks with other states and you get points if you have tickets in other states. I received my only ticket in Nevada and CA found out about it.
I'm about to buy, so any info is appreciated.
I'm about to buy, so any info is appreciated.
Can't wait to get my G, counting down the days...
I put on 225/55-17 Michelin Pilot Sport A/S, mounted on the stock wheels.
The Pilot Sport A/S is a great (albeit expensive) tire. Noise is good, only slightly more than the Turanza EL42 which is a quiet tire. Turn in and grip are improved. Ride is about the same, maybe faintly firmer.
However the Pilot Sport A/S made the car significantly more sensitive to "tramlining", or the tendency to follow road ruts and to pull left/right depending on road camber. I've read that unidirectional tires with V-shaped tread patterns sometimes cause this.
Based on this in general I'd recommend staying with the stock tires until more options appear in that size. The stock tires might not seem great, but they were good enough to beat the BMW 330i in several performance metrics.
Would be interesting to hear from other G35 owners doing tire upgrades, to get more data.
-- Joe
Did you notice any other negative effects with the tire size you put on? Tire Rack, Tire Kingdom and poster "cloth" all said that 235/50/17 would fit, and I notice that you put on 225/55/17. Any speedometer problems or other handling issues that you didn't mention?
Just curious, because I am surprised at the lack of tire options for the stock size.
http://g35accessories.com/catalog/wood_kits_193633_products.htm
This should help!
I wonder if the manual shift mechanism on G35 is the same as the "sequential manual gearbox" in BMW M4 or the "sequential manual transmission" in Toyota MR2. (As I understand it, both SMG and SMT use electronic control to carry out the real manual shift within about 0.1 second.) I have not found discussions about this aspect here, but I would like to learn more about this function. Thank you.
The manumatic on the G35 is absolutely nothing like the SMG. The G35's tranny is much more like BMW's Steptronic and Porsche's Tiptronic. It's an automatic that allows users to shift from gear to gear. It does not have a clutch in any fashion. The SMG of the M3, Aston Martin's new tranny and Ferrari's F1 tranny use a clutch and flywheel, just like a traditional manual...the big difference: a computer and servos activate the clutch for shifts (often faster than a human possibly could) and even blip the throttle for you.
Here's how one Edmunds' reviewer explained it:
"So what exactly is a sequential manual gearbox? First, as the name suggests, it is a manual transmission, complete with clutch, flywheel and throw-out bearing. Unlike other "automanuals" or "manumatics" that are actually just automatic transmissions with extra buttons or levers to help the driver change gears, BMW's SMG offers all the increased drivetrain efficiency of a true manual transmission (that is, no fluid torque converter to suck up horsepower before it reaches the drive wheels). A similar design, dubbed "F1," is available from Ferrari, as is one from Toyota that uses the term Sequential Manual Transmission, or SMT. The BMW, Ferrari and Toyota systems are all similar in concept, but BMW's is by far the most advanced in terms of features and functionality."
http://www.edmunds.com/reviews/roadtests/spin/71189/article.html
I don't care whether or not you drive and automatic or not. You seem to be obsessed with the technology (and not driving) or trying to convince yourself that its ok not to drive a manual. Get a life.
The speedo is about 5% fast, at 60 indicated I'm doing 63mph, verified by GPS. Tire calculations say it should only be 1.6% off. I heard Infiniti can adjust the speedo to null this out; don't know if it's true.
You're right 235/50-17 is closer, only 0.2% off. I heard that 235 was pushing the stock 7-in rims, plus 235 exceeded front suspension clearance specs. If Infiniti and Tire Rack say 235 is OK, I guess it's OK.
Besides increased tramlining, no other problems. However the tramlining is really noticible. On right-banked roads (which most are in the R lane) it pulls notably to the right. The Bridgestones only did that very faintly.
Unknown if it's just my car, the specific tires, or what.
Scott
Did someone cross post something with my name?
Obsessed with technology? Yes, I suppose I could ascribe to that rendition of myself, but don't you also drive a car that has about 20 onboard computers in it just like mine?
Maybe its not entirely correct to say that I am "obsessed" with technology, but only that I believe that the art of driving can be enhanced with an alternative that might supersede the classic idea of the clutch and shiftknob...
The tiller was a good idea before the steering wheel, a sprocket and chain was a good idea before the driveshaft and differential, heck! open car windows were wonderful before a/c... My only point is that despite the tenacious grip enthusiasts use to hang on to M/T's there should be equal impetus for improvement.
Even Formula one adopted SMG paddle shifting, this represents an evolution of the system... I never said that manual shifting should ever be abolished, or that anyone couldn't enjoy the fruits of that system if they wanted, but it seems from the vehemence of your response that I must have said something like "all people who like Manual transmissions should be shot" and I am pretty sure I never said anything like that.
I will say up front that I agree with you on almost all your points, I also feel more in control, more connected and more "efficient" and yes, have more fun when driving a Manual transmission. If you read more of my posts on the transmission subject, you'll see that I say something along the lines that modern Auto transmissions are merely a compromise and not an end all of anything, just as manual transmissions are, and that my hope for the future is that something will supersede both to the enjoyment of all...
I try to be civil at all times, even when I am angry, and to be honest, your reply made me kind of angry. Please quote to me the inflammatory things that I have said in the past to deserve your reply so that I might apologize, otherwise I think you might have me confused with someone else...
Oh, the one point that I don't agree with you on is the aspersion that I have no life, I actually do, just as I know you do... and just as I respect the fact that you do...
Faenor/Dane4
Apologies to the rest of the board... I spout off when I am upset...
G35 / 6.9 secs.
TL Type-S / 6.42 secs.
328i / 6.86 secs.
CTS / 7.53 secs.
Audi A4 / 6.9 secs.( 3.0 V6 )
Maxima / 6.2 secs ( Note: 6 sp. Manual )
In the slalom, the G zipped thru @ 44.8 mph, which was better than
most cars in it's class except for the 328i's 46.4 mph.The G excelled
at stopping from 60 mph in 112 ft. The TL Type - S needed 134 ft.and
the Maxima 130 ft.
It will be interesting to see how the G35 performs with the manual tranny.
(due next year ? )
PS : Personally, I think Autoweek had lead weights in the trunk for
the 0- 60 runs !!
Do they indicate launch rpm? Seems to me the TL-S is pretty fast, others a bit slower than I'd think.
Interesting.l
Take care.
Joe W.
I am curious about how the adaptive learning algorithm really functions and how its contents (recorded up to the time of the test) may have effected shift patterns for the Gauto tranny.
Not trying to make excuses, as some may want to try and point out, just curious as to why this cars numbers have seemingly declined so much over time. With the torque, hp and gearing that is advertised for the G it seems that the times should be more competitive and maybe more consistant. As it happens the car simulation program I have also seems to think it should produce better times.
I'll try and dig up some tech info on the adaptive algorithm and report it back to you all.
Gary
Also Car and Driver (and maybe the other mags) try both full auto and manumatic shifting, and use whichever one is faster. If the adaptive tranny slowed things down, they'd just use the numbers obtained from manumatic shifting.
My personal guess is the early batch of G35s were slightly different. Maybe a hotter final drive, or maybe ECU fuel mapping changes. The only evidence I have is the hwy milage was revised upward during early production. But it definitely seems something changed.
No less than four different mags tested the G35 and all got 6.2 sec. Then suddenly in September, nobody can get below 6.7 sec, with the average 6.9.
C&D (10/02): 7.1 seconds
AW (10/7/02): 6.9 seconds
Edmunds (9/26/02): 6.7 seconds
MT (8/02): 6.21 seconds
C&D (5/02): 6.2 seconds
R&T (7/02): 6.2 seconds
Motorweek (4/19/02): 6.2 seconds
-- Joe
Still the G35 is quite a bit cheaper than the 2.7T, is almost as fast, and pretty luxurious although not quite equal to the Audi.
Like BMW, Audi will have to make enhancements to avoid losing some customers to Infiniti. That's good for all of us, no matter which one we drive.
I bought an Infiniti partly because of the reputation of the dealerships for stellar service, I'm discovering now that owning an Infiniti is all about the service!
The rep, was effecient, very friendly, totally attentive to every concern I had, and most of all, genuine... Either he was the best actor in the world, or he was truly concerned about making sure everything I wanted was taken care of...
I can't say more about how pleased I am about this part of the Infiniti "Experience"
One other thing I had to mention (it might actually be some sort of mistake on the form) but I bought a case of Mobil 1 5W-30 from Costco the other day in anticipation of having the dealership use it for the oil change. I paid I think $23.00 for 6 quarts... The service rep said there was absolutely no problem with using it and that it would only be a question if I wanted to use it in the car if it had less than 10k miles on it (they recommend holding off for 10k miles before using the synthetics) Anyway, on the service order it says "Customer requests to use own oil for oil change, Oil located in box on passenger side floor. oil service subtract $36.00"
If I am reading that right, I've just recouped much more of my cost of going with Mobil 1! I'll have to wait and see if it was a mistake, or if I am reading the service contract incorrectly, But I remember distinctly sitting there in the office and listening as the service rep was calculating the discount, punching keys on the adding machine and saying "At this much a quart... that would be minus.... 36...."
I'll let you know what happens when I pick the car up, its probably a mistake, but if not, EVERYONE GO MOBIL 1!!! *laughing*
Faenor/Dane4
I wanted to change the map light bulb to a different color. Do I have to order these or can I get them anywhere like an Auto store? Please help.
what's the record for saying the word "post" in a single paragraph? :-)
I wanted to change the map light bulb to a different color. Do I have to order these or can I get them anywhere like an Auto store? Please help.
He didn't give me any specific reasons as to why they recommend holding off for that long... I know that many premiere car marques use Mobil 1 right from the start, I think Jag and Porsche are two of these. The only thing I can think of is that Infiniti is simply trying to "play it safe" with the dino-based oil from the start. They have tons of data concerning vehicle operation with normal petroleum based oil, whereas that same data for full synthetic might be a bit sketchy, and so instead of having to deal with an additional variables should there be some sort of engine issue, they wait escessively long until it is absolutely certain that the car has settled into its operating regime (10k miles)...
Mobil 1 has been around for a long time, and the new SuperSyn formulation is supposed to be even better at wear protection than the additive composition just a year or so ago. I would think it would be very beneficial to have synthetic in the car right after 500 miles or even right from the get-go... But the car industry sticks to what "works" and this might be the impetus for the 10k recommendation, "We don't have full data so we'll assume it will go badly and stick with what we know works" that kind of thing...
When they put MTBE in the gasoline here in California, everyone was raving about how great it would be for the environment and how we would all be much better off... they upped the gas prices 5 cents to pay for this "great thing"... now they are moving to take the additive out because its poisoning the ground water supply and poses a significant health risk... Guess what they did to the gas prices to take the stuff out?
I think Infiniti is proceeding from the assumption that since they are not absolutely positive about the end result (using synthetic), and that sometimes what looks like a good thing can turn out for a bad thing because you didn't have full knowledge or benefit of historical data, so they hold off judgement till its less of an issue (10k miles)... I wish they had done that with MTBE (funny how the biggest proponents for putting it in where MTBE manufacturers, and environmentalists working for their companies)
Faenor/Dane4
Oh well, I've already switched over, so no point in switching back.
I've switched over too so I'm with you... You wouldn't believe how long and how much info I have gone over about synthetics vs. dino-oil... Break in period, worn engines, engines in good condition, ring seating, oil loss, and on and on and on and on...
You find one opinion with support by a guy with a PHd in engine oil, and 5 years of hard data, then 10 minutes later you find an opinion that is the exact opposite by a guy with 2 PHd's in engine oil and 10 years of hard data... ARGH!
In the end, I just went with what Infiniti recommended... it might not have been the best thing to do, but if something goes wrong (I hope not) at least they won't be able to blame me for using Synthetic too early or something LoL!
Have a good one!
Faenor/Dane4
I even drove around with it on at night when it was about 60 degrees outside just to celebrate the quietness and no loss of power!!! I was freezing my rear end off but loving every minute of it! *laughing*
BUT...
This morning I was putting a coat of wax on the car and underneath the rear bumper was a deep gouge/scratch in the lower area of the bumper where it was hard to see unless you were standing back from the car looking at the rear, or next to the car bending down...
No one likes leaving the rear of my G35 undamaged! first the rear end accident while my wife was driving now this! It definitely happened at the dealership and looks like the ran a jack or some other equipment into the back of the bumper
I called immediately and spoke to the service rep, and he said to just bring it in at my convenience and if they couldn't fix it there they would send it to the body shop... That made me feel better...
Infiniti still has great service all around, I just wish I didn't have to use it for something like this
Faenor/Dane4
Gary
The break-in limitations are very clearly specified in the owner's manual. If the dealer said there isn't one, he's either an idiot or a lier. Either way, probably not a good idea to do business with him.
************
During the first 1,000 miles (1,600 km), follow
these recommendations for the future reliability
and economy of your new vehicle.
-Avoid driving for long periods at constant
speed, either fast or slow.
-Do not accelerate at full throttle in any gear.
-Avoid quick starts.
-Avoid hard braking as much as possible.
-Do not tow a trailer for the first 500 miles
(800 km).
**************
You have to decide whether a demo would necessarily be made to follow these rules strictly. I know the demo I drove wasn't kept to these standards. The warrantee may still protect you, of course.
Gary
After reading your post, I pulled my manual out of the car on my lunch break to check and see if I had remembered the numbers incorrectly, but my owner's manual says 1200 miles and specifically references the 4000 RPM limitation. I did noticed that the online PDF version of the manual from Nissan is as exactly as you quoted in your post though. Maybe the trunk isn't the only subtle change Nissan made with respect to the car?
Bottom line, as you stated, is that there is definately a break-in schedule for the G35. If this sales person made statements to he contrary on something so important I would steer away from that dealership. It shows a real lack of respect for the buying public. It may be you just got handeled by a nefarious sales person. Reporting the glitch may be the right thing to do , but that is up to bgoldca.
Thanks,
Gary
what i would recommend is first find a reputable installers, and discuss it with them as to what you want to done.it will be dependent on your phone service, your phone(is a kit available) and your car.
the installer i use said he had done a few g35's with no problem. this installer does high end cars, was recommended, and is busy. i figured he must be good, and he is.
i would talk to dealers of high end cars as to who they recommend in your area for this work. Infiniti a good place to start.
i will probably do it on my g 35 as well.
while in the car your cell phone works as good as a factory install, your phone is charged when in the cradle of the car and when you leave you can take the phone with you fully charged. the reception is good the use is easy, and the sound in both directions is clear with just a little road noise and small reverb sound going out.
find the right installer and it can be done very clean (no wires/no holes), and look nice, as well.
make sure you get the flat antenna and not the pig tail or stick, they will make wind noise.
============Original Message============
I had this "jiggling" effect explained to me on several ocassions... It is a combination of effects that cause the apparent "vibration" when you look at your HIDS projected into the distance...
HID headlights by design and by characteristic of the brightness of the lights have an extremely "sharp" or focused pattern, or relatively focused when compared to the dispersal pattern of standard, or even halogen headlamps.
Because the borders of light to dark are so crisp and not diffuse, it is far easier to discern the normal car motion as it effects the beam pattern in the distance.
If anyone is familiar with laser dot sights, or laser pointers, it is a close analogy... The laser dot is extremely fine and/or focused... Because of this, if you shine the dot on a wall about 50 feet away, you can see every single "jitter" and shake of your had amplified many times, because of the distance, and tightness of the beam.
Now take an ordinary flashlight of about the same size and weight (a mini maglite of some sort) and you will notice that there is far less apparent motion in the beam. This is due to the fact that the light border between dark and light is very much more diffuse and in essence "hides" alot of the imperfection of your shaking hand.
Because the beam pattern from your HID headlights is a sharp "rectangle" in front of your car, and not a glowing "blob" You see far more of the cars front end motion in the same way you would see the jiggling motion of a needle gauge, but if you had bad eyesight and took off your glassses, you would just see a blur of the needle looking as if it were motionless... There is still motion there, but the blur, "blurs" it
Additionally, HID lamps are protected from shock loads, by various isolation methods that consist of anything from flexible mounting rods, to soft rubber isolation pads. Ironically, HID lamps are far more resilient than the bulb structure of halogen lamps, but the added protect is driven by the fact that the HID lamps are many many times more expensive than halogens... Some movement is attributable to whatever method they are using to protect the bulbs from shock loads, but the main "culprit" if you can call it that, is beam sharpness and beam intensity.
Another phenomena, while I am blabbing on about HIDs is the fact that many people complain that it appears as though their aimpoint on the beams is too low. This is due in large part again, to the intensity of the beams more than anything else... Since everything in the covered arc is so brightly lit, and everything outside of the beam is so dark (very little "glow" or diffusion of the beam) It gives the illusion that the lights are aimed lower than is normal, since things can, and will just suddenly "leap" into illumination like a flashbulb, whereas, with regular headlights, things seem to creep up in the orange glow and get brighter and brighter. In actuality, you are seeing things as far if not further down the road, but those things have more of a tendency to surprise you.
Point of fact, the HIDs can often represent an ironic twist... Because they are so bright... they also amplify the "dark" beyond their reach... Your eyes adjust to everything in the beam, and whats outside of it becomes this inky black, like shining a flashlight in your face... that inky black can sometimes be dully lit with Standard headlights...
Its like the old story about caltrans and guard rails... There were far more accidents involving cars plunging off cliff roads when there were guard rails present then when there weren't... the assumption was that if you are looking at a 500 foot drop you tended to be FAR more concerned if there was nothing to keep you from going over the edge "Keeping you on your toes" as it were... If you are in a situation where the beamlight is less intense, maybe you try harder to "see" as far as possible into the distance
Sorry to ramble on...
Faenor/Dane4
ciao,
gary
Two questions:
1. When I press the remote trunk release from the keyfob or from the button inside, the trunk catch releases but it does not swing open like my I30 or other cars that I have seen. Is this characteristic of the 2003.5G or is something wrong with the trunk release?
2. The brakes give off a burning smell that sometimes comes into the cabin. As soon as I step out of the car, I can smell the brakes and they also feel hot. I have been EXTREMELY gentle with the brakes. Have others experienced this? Is there a break-in period for the brakes as well? I hope this goes away!
Thanks,
-krishnaj
Intuitively, the brake issue doesn't sound good though.
Gary
The brake pad issue is also normal. Because they are so tight, they will got hot at any speed of braking regardless of how light you are on the pedal. As far as the smell, I noticed a smell also, and was told by the service rep. that they coat their brake pads in a treatment of some kind that burns off in the first hundred miles or so, thus accounting for the smell. It should go away soon.
The brake dust, unfortunately, is there to stay. If you haven't already discovered this, just check out your front rims after a few days of driving. They get very dirty. Nothing can be done till an aftermarket manufacturer comes up with a new pad design which hopefully is less messy.
As far as waiting for the break-in period, if it's any consolation, you can still do 100 in 5th gear at 4000 RPM. Enjoy your new G, the ivory/graphite combo is really sharp.
Thanks for the info. I have about 60 miles on the car now and the brake smell is less noticeable. No other complaints. I've read about the brake dust and it looks like Infiniti benchmarked BMW too well on that one :-). Small compromise for such a great car.
palmerg,
You won't be disappointed. This is the first car that I've owned where I want to skip out early just to drive. This is also my first RWD and I now understand what the 'purists' were raving about.
Regards,
-Krishna
Just curious, how long was your wait?