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Comments
It seems that if you are going to spend more anyway, use the money on the highest quality ester-based synthetic which has proven results in providing greater oil film strength, higher actual viscosity in bearings under high temperature, less hydrodynamic drag, the ability to absorb more engine heat, better flow at subzero temperatures, and allows drain intervals in excess of 15,000 miles. Hey, that sounds like an infomercial!
There are many polyol ester oils on the market, but most are used for other engine types (aircraft, etc.), and applications. I guess the cost is the major factor at the present time. Almost every synthetic oil has some level of ester, even Castrol (which used to be 100% ester). Since no one will reveal their formula, it's hard to say what kind of levels we are talking about. Redline is the only brand that does say they are 100% polyol ester that I know of.
When a mechanical component has substantial amounts of material worn off it, that's it...nothing in a can is going to put metal back on a piston or a camshaft or a valve seat or a timing chain sprocket.
Hydraulic valve lifters aren't externally adjustable. It's the valve lash you are adjusting. Hydraulic lifters require less frequent adjusting than do solid lifters.
--- Bror Jace
A friend has recommended "Rislone" that he got from AutoZone. He says that it helped him smoothen the 'clickity clack' sound of his valve lifters as well as the engine noise. I have not used it yet (or any other additive) so not sure if this is the best for the job. Has anyone here used this additive for noisy hydraulic valve lifters? Should I use the Marvel Mystery Oil instead? Thanks.
If the problem is sticking lifters, then I would be very concerned about what else was gummed up in the engine, and why that happened since I only use synthetics.
Maybe I would try some additive if I had a vehicle on its last leg, and I was just trying to squeeze a few more miles out of it, but I wouldn't expect it to run for very long when I'm simply covering up a problem.
Lifters--try Rislone. It does work if the only problem is varnish or dirt and it isn't too bad. If you really have a filthy engine, one of the 5 min flushes that are mostly kerosene may cure the problem, but follow the instructions and IDLE it no longer than 5 minutes. It might be a good idea to follow up with a shortened oil change interval right after using it to remove any kerosene left.
"I knew a guy with a 2nd generation (1990-94) Acura Integra that had a noisy lifter or something in the valve train and he used the CD-2 detergent to good effect."
Those Integras were dohc engines, which don't have lifters, to my understanding of the matter.
Whatever it was that was quieted, it wasn't hydraulic lifters on an Integra!
Now where did that cut-away of the engine I had go ... ?
--- Bror Jace
Seems like the additive marketers took a page out of the cosmetics industry handbook: million dollar
hype to sell what is essentially mineral oil,water and fragrance, then sell it for 39.95 for 4 oz. of youth in a bottle.
But I still love those Dura-Lube infomercials!
30,000 miles. The engine with Arcographite still had hone marks on the cylinder walls, the camshaft was like new, so were rings, crankshaft, bearings, etc. ARCO discontinued the graphite oil sometime in the early 80's. I remember Union 76 Long distance purple, it was a 10-30 long life oil, looked like grapejuice and poured like it. It also disappeared. A few years ago i searched for a GRAPHITE additive, i found a company that sold a 16oz bottle for $19.95
forgot name, it was a multi-level marketing company that used parymid scheme to attract distributers, shucks, can't remember. Maybe AMWAY, not sure..
Don't know how it works in the motor oil however.
The Saab recommendation for lubegard in the transmission is for real.
But I am hesistating now because an authorized factory technician told me that if I do use such additive, my next oil change should be done in a shorter interval (less than 2000 miles according to him) to prevent it from developing sludges which could eventually damage the engine. He said sludges are developed because Slick 50 or others similar in nature have teflon in them. Is this true?
First, the stuff is a little on the thick side so I'd use it in the summer.
Second, I wouldn't worry about it 'sludging up' and I'd run it the usual 3-5,000 miles and then change your oil and filter. Yes, the stuff has teflon in it and I'm not sure how much help that stuff is inside your motor (opinions vary) but I don't see how it could sludge up unless you really extend your change interval and the rest of the oil breaks down, oxidizes and collects particulates.
--- Bror Jace
Reminds me of the "fifty mile per gallon carbuerator" you could get for your Cadillac if the oil companies weren't holding the patents. Patents expire, fuel injection does better than any carbuerator, and we still don't have fifty mile per gallon Caddy's.
Harry
I don't believe in "miracle" products either.
I think with synthetic compounds (oils, greases, etc ...) you can gain a little advantage of one type or another ... but you pay for it. Nothing is for free.
--- Bror Jace
I'm not sure what you expected from that CD-2 detergent. If your engine is not suffering from any lubrication sludge/deposit problems, it should not have made a difference.
I know an Integra owner who thought he had a stuck valve and CD-2 valve detergent seemed to 'cure" it ... but that's it.
--- Bror Jace