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Comments
So to buy or not to buy? I'd say NOT...but if you decide to try your luck, buy a bumper to bumper warranty.
We have been very happy with the truck and I would buy another.
Frank
Looking for advice and resolution to problems that sound the same
Many thanks
Kevin
I love everything about it, took one for test drive, but now I'm scared after reading all these bad things happening with yours and others...!
i have a 98 Toyota camry and I'm just tired of it, can't say why, maybe midlife crisis thing-y....had a celica for 14 years, so I know about reliability, dependability, holding their value, yadayadayada....but now I want some FUN in my life!
although it does not sound like you've had much FUN with yours!
how is it going, any better?
please give me some encouraging news!
Fortunately, I have a very good local dealer with a very good service department. My hope is that when they get all the bugs fixed, this will be a good vehicle. Let's just say that DC's concept for the CRD was good, but their execution sucks.
Of course I may be being too optimistic. If it turns out that the overheating is really due to a fundamental design flaw in the cooling system instead of just bad software running the TEMP gauge - as some here have suggested - then I will revise my opinion downward. Guess I won't find out until next summer when the weather warms up again.
My advice to the original poster who was unhappy about two visits to the service department in two weeks: get used to it.
What were your options on the engine replacement?
Exhaust Leak on the Turbocharger.
Gear Searching at highway speeds.
Gear Searching with a "clunking" sound when decelerating at
lower speeds in town.
I do not get greater than 25 MPG on the highway.
I had the Turbocharger leak repaired ( It took a week for parts to arrive), but there was thick black soot coating under the hood that was not cleaned off. In addition,
there are some vital electronic components that were subjected to excessive heat
degenerating the insulating capability of those components, not to mention the heat dissipation aspects. The electrical components are still at risk of electrical failure due to carbon arching from the soot build up.
I am going to take the jeep back in for a check-up tomorrow and try to work out the problems with the Transmission anomalies.
By the way, I have 20,000+ miles on this liberty 19,000 exclusively highway miles.
I use this vehicle to drive to work and travel many miles per day.
On the lighter side, this liberty is a sound riding machine, with exceptional power at low RPMs. Handling is is effortless and it has a quick nimble feel when addressing turns at all speeds. Sway or yaw could use some finer tuning.
I plan on checking out or testing the claims made by chrysler concerning all aspects of this vehicle. I have all records of travel, maintenance, repairs and fuel.
I will be forwarding this and other findings to Daimler Chysler for reponses and action. I recommend that all customers do the same.
Are there any hidden screws or special mounting channel :confuse:
there are no bolts and no mounting channel on my CRD. I need only pull it up and waggle it. It sits in rubber seatings. I hope it helps you.
Thank you for the info.
By the way, I noticed my turbo hose going to the filter housing was ready to fall off the housing because the body of the metal fixation collar (which is almost flat underneath) had deformed the plastic material of the filter connection. It was shaped like a "D" instead of an "O". I got there just in time...
Do you still drive the 2.5L ?
yes, I do still drive my 2,5 CRD sport manual tranny. I have now 95.000 km (about 60.000 miles) on it. During summer 05 started light vibration somewhere in drivetrain. Higher temperature=more vibs, cold=no vibs. I feel it in the steering wheel. Didn´t find any reason. Chrysler people "cannot feel or duplicate it". Shafts were tested. Mileage 22-24 mpg depends on speed.
Im sorry to read here Chrysler did not eliminate the old problems in new trucks at all. It seems to me purchasing Liberty now is even greater venture as 3 years ago.
I did this and the pressure is more stable between summer and winter because there is no moisture in the gas. You may have a different tire pressure from left to right if you drive fast during summer. I didn't believe it would make a big difference but I must admit I'm surprised. Here it costs 4 Euros extra per new set of tires.
I'm heading towards 60,000 Km without any problem except for the fan clutch the first year. I would buy a new Liberty diesel if I could get it without the electronics. A cam driven injector-pump system would please me more even if I had to loose a bit of torque.
I have a 2004 liberty limited. On the Highway keeping a strait line, if i release the accelerator the car pull to the right. If i correct the direction, and keep it strait, when i accelerate the car goes to the left. Any one has an idea?
When both cardan joints were repaired was it only replacement of the cross pieces and bearings? You could have too much play in the splined sleeve of the transmission shaft. I think you're reaching the limit of this design.
It was only replacement of those pieces as you write. First replacement was done by Chrysler and it was not good, but they "did not feel any vibrations". Then I buyed aftermarket joints with lubricators, installed them and it was better, near perfect. It held almost one year.
I tried to balance the shaft with two hose sleeves and their best position seems to compensate the original counterweights.
I´m thinking about buying new shaft, when DC can offer a balanced one.
You may be right with the play, but by the hand I don´t feel it.
It's bad enough that she doesn't use the sunroof, but sometimes when her husband (or I) drive it we forget, open the roof, and then have to futz with it for 10 minutes to get it to close
It has 77K on the clock, so it's no longer a warranty issue and the cost to open up the entire roof on an exploratory mission (which a dealer would be only happy to do at $80/hr) would probably be very high.
Does this trouble sound familiar to anybody? Does anybody have any clues where the trouble might lie to help narrow it down?
TIA
Other than this issue and a couple dealership trips to tighten some stuff in the rear suspension, it's been trouble-free and she LOVES the thing.
DjB
I tend to trust this particular service department, but I really have no idea if they're right or not. My mileage is around 5500 now, and the brakes still groan anytime I park the vehicle outside in cold weather.
Anyone else have thoughts on the validity of this diagnosis?
craigk1
> brakes, but rather when I'm rolling either forward or in reverse. Again,
> goes away after a few seconds. Hope the diagnosis still stands.
Yup, same with mine. I get the noise when I back up; no foot on the brake - sometimes it will even happen while going forward. Usually stops after 50-100 yards, but one time it lasted for several blocks.
The noise should disappear with wear as was stated above. Flushing the brakes may hasten the end of the noise, but this may not work until the brake pads have worn in some.
Ken