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As far as I can tell the stock OEM battery has a common failure mode that is a dead cell in the battery. This causes low voltage (dead battery). This low voltage allows some systems to function properly and some not. So when you get the vehicle jumped IAC valve (idle air control) wigs out because there isn't the proper voltage to control the valve. This explains the dying problem after jumped and evidently the clicking stuff is happening due to this low voltage stuff too.
Remove battery and let vehicle set for 15 minutes so all previous electrical stuff is gone and then install new battery.
And from what I can tell from previous postings is that after you jumped the vehicle the IAC valve poor functioning might cause a really high vacuum (which kills engine when you let off accelerator - when you have your foot on the pedal the throttle valve is open and the engine is getting plenty air) this really high vacuum may give you an eventual vacuum leak. So don't keep trying to jump the engine.
I am now concidering fitting a Sat nav "RB1 AM/FM Navigation, CD, DVD with CD Changer Controls"
Has any one attempted this on a 2002 liberty and what modifications are required.
Then I'll get a filter, cut it open and compare media and pleat size.I'll compare it to a purolator a fram and an stp.
That way all data is factual and current.
But the idea that you need to change your oil every 3000 miles is because jiffy bull does not lab test each cars oil for wear and contaminants, thats a fact.
I have a 1992 volvo just turned 200,000 miles. I ran my last 4 quarts of mobil1 5W30 for 10,210 miles, with a purolator pure one filter. It is a simple scientific fact that if the oil became over contaminated and broke down so would my car. On a kinder gentler note I am now running half 5w30 mobil1 and 1/2 rotellaT 15W40
Any ideas?
Thanks!
I have seen this kind of issue before. The thing that comes to my mind is what ever you saved in $ can't be enough to pay for the engine repair, can it? Unless aperson loves to work on vehicles, it can be a mistake. When you do oil changes save your reciept for the oil and filter, and put the mileage on the slip. Save the papers in a folder and thenyou have your proof og keeping the vehicle up. Hope this works out for you.
Farout
Any updates on your 2002 Liberty AC problem?
I've been stumped with a similar problem with my 2002 Liberty, and our dealer is having a heck of a time fixing it.
Our AC is ice cold... when it works. While driving it will abruptly stop and start blowing hot air. At the dealer they to replicate the problem but if the car's parked it blows 38 with no problem. It seems like it only occurs when the car's on the road. Does this sound familiar to you?
Thanks,
Tom D
:confuse:
Just wondering if this lack of parts means it's a rare occurance, or is this a far more frequent problem ?
Farout
It turns out the Chrysler Ipod kit is not 100% compatable with the U-connect option as advertised. Engineering has apparently indicated they need an additional cable installed , yet after about 8 weeks I'm still waiting for Chrysler to indicate to the dealer where they can actually get the part.
Has any one else run into this?
We have opened up an entire series of new topics related to the Jeep Liberty, in order to better focus each topic for you. Rather than plow through thousands of posts in one giant topic, you can now select a topic that narrows down your points of concern or interest about the Liberty.
Please consult the Jeep Liberty Group list and select a topic that addresses your concerns.
Here's the link to the Group List:
Jeep Liberty Topic List
If you can't find a topic that matches what you want to talk about, feel free to start a new discussion---BE SURE to make your new topic broad enough for others to join in---e.g., "Jeep Liberty AC Issues", rather than "2005 Jeep Liberty AC rattling noise".
This "Problems and Solutions" topic will be made "read only".
MrShiftright
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