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Comments
had a similar problem with my 2003 about a year ago. It was a faulty switch on/in the transfer case -- it was shorting out. They replaced it, and haven't had a problem since. i believe the part number was 5083138AA (switch-transfer case). hope this helps.
I own a 2005 jeep liberty and just last night i pulled the seat lever to move the seat backing up or down (to sit up right or lay down) and the lever jsut broke and now it wont lift back up. I dont know how to fix but i'm not sure I want to spend 500 dollars fixing it. AH! Does anyone know how to fix the seat? :sick:
Mike
I was wondering if you have had your liberty fixed. I have a 2002 that I have only had for a short while, it had very low mileage when I bought it, and I have only put a couple hundred miles on it myself. When I went to start it this morning, it mad a wierd clicking noise, then everything went dead, the back door made a strange clicking noise when I opened it, and now it is as if everything is totally frozen. Before I have it towed to a garage, I would like to have a little idea of what they should look for. What did you find out the problem was, and app. how much did it cost to fix? Any help would be appreciated.
I purchase a brand new '03 Liberty Sport "Freedom" Edition 4x4. Absolutely loved it. Came with the 3.7L, front push-bar, side step rails, sunroof, etc. Then we got an '03 Grand Cherokee Laredo w/the 4.9L in it. The old Liberty was like a snail by comparison. So began the Liberty's modifications: new Borla stainless cat-back dual exhaust system, 3" dia ram air in-take system, and finally a Helix Power Tower throttle body 1" spacer. About the same time I also switched jobs and began commuting 48 miles on the interstate hwy daily to work. Needless to say the performance has been a real let down, the ram air squeals like a stuck pig under acceleration, the passing gear doesn't want to kick in above 60mph, and the throttle body spacer does nothing for an increase in MPG or in performance.
The folks at Helix said that the computer just needed to be re-set to allow for all the new in-rush of air. So I disconnected the battery, pushed on the horn and brakes to bleed the system of any stored-up power. Nothing has changed though. As a matter of fact the mpg has dropped down a bit. Does anybody know of a DIY way to re-set the computer other than this? I hate to take it now back to the dealership so they can charge me $100 to re-set it, especially after doing all this work myself. Is there anything else I can do or should I pull off the ram air intake and run the Helix throttle body spacer by itself? The engine only has 27,800 miles on it and I've always used Mobile-1 oil in it. I just wish it had a bit more giddy-up and go. Is there any hope here or should I be thinking about trading her in?
I'm sure glad I didn't start messing with my kids 2 Power Wheels Jeeps........
I have a 2004 w/ 32,000 on it. Yesterday it ate a CD spit it back out 30 minutes later; the car started accelerating very slowly and then my radio, clock, locks all went dead and all the gauges all went hay-wire! I checked the fuses and they were alright but I have no idea what's wrong. I had to fight w/ the dealer to get it in the shop (it goes in tomorrow). It's still under warranty. Has anyone have this happen?
Purolater filters are a good filter but not the best. Wix is a better filter by a long shot.
Please remember your advice you have given is to the Liberty Diesel forum. DCX uses Mobil 1 synthetic 0-40w in the CRD. However some have switched to Rotella, Amsoil and several other brands and weights. We all paid a premium price to have a diesel, and I doubt anyone would be foolish to buy "cheap" oil.
When you say "Mobil 1 around 11" is this your estimate or a wild guess?
The "Oil Myths" site is at least 3 years old, and I read a few things that time has passed by on.
You don't say if you even own a CRD Liberty. The post you responded to was made on April 20, 2006. I haven't seen any posts from sueb2 recently. Not only that sueb2 had a 2002 liberty, which was gas because the CRD came out in 05. I resent you referring to anyone as "Ahh, another 3,000 mile sucker". I doubt sueb2 was still looking to replace their engine here in mid June.
I do not think that changing oil at 3,000 miles is stupid. I have a 1996 Dodge Neon with the original engine with 186,000 miles on it, and runs fine for the miles. I have not seen too many Neons still going at 186,000 miles. So I guess we had to do something right. I have made it a point to go no farther than 8,000 miles twice and there have been some with 5,000 miles , but most were 3,000 miles. I hit a rock on the oil pan, it had to be fixed and the inside of the engine looked very clean, thanks to the first 90,000 miles on Castrol, and the rest on Mobil 5-30w oil.
I don't mind your post, it's your claims that I find flawed, and too much "I know it all" and nobody else knows anything that bothers me. Hope you continue to post, but we have some real experts in this forum, and I am not one of them.
Farout
Hows your fuel milage, and how many miles do you have on your CRD?
Farout
I also have this strange creak. It has been going on for sometime now. It only happens when it is a very hot day (90+) or I have been driving for a very long time. I know this is an old post but did you ever find out what it is and did you get it fixed. Thanks
Farout
One question, though: What's the obvious use of the beefed up roof rack?
Yesterday, I drove 80 miles away from home, parked it for the day, and when I got back in it - it would not start. My husband checked the starter & battery connections - not the problem. We have been told that it must be completely in "park" - done that.... maybe the chip in the key for anti-theft --- doesn't shut down, just won't start.
I am new to the board and my last Jeep was a very old, very used Cherokee (which I loved) - I would love my Liberty just as much if it would start.
Thanks in advance !!!!!!
So far(knock on wood) it running, so i will see what happens.
June 6, 2006
Federal regulators have expanded a defect investigation of the front suspension on the Jeep Liberty to include all 2002 to 2006 models of the vehicles with the suspension.
The National Highway Traffic Safety Administration Office of Defects Investigation is looking into allegations that the lower ball joint assembly can separate and fail on the Liberty.
Regulators have received 495 complaints describing a lower ball joint failure in the suspension.
The complaints include reports of three injuries and two crashes.
The ball joints, which in some models were the subject of a prior recall, can loose lubrication and corrode and that can result in separation and failure.
Chrysler has changed the design and material used in the Liberty’s suspension since the initial safety recall. NHTSA is looking at that recall to determine if the changes and modifications solved the ball joint problem in the suspension
http://www.consumeraffairs.com/recalls04/2006/jeep_liberty_probe.html
Make / Models : Model/Build Years:
JEEP / LIBERTY 2002-2006
JEEP / LIBERTY 4X4 2006
Manufacturer : DAIMLERCHRYSLER CORPORATION
Component :
SUSPENSION:FRONT:CONTROL ARM:LOWER BALL JOINT
Date Investigation Opened : May 31, 2006
Date Investigation Closed : Open
Summary:
ON JANUARY 6, 2006, THE OFFICE OF DEFECTS INVESTIGATION (ODI) OPENED A PRELIMINARY EVALUATION TO INVESTIGATE ALLEGED FRONT SUSPENSION LOWER BALL JOINT SEPARATION WHILE DRIVING IN CERTAIN MODEL YEAR (MY) 2004 JEEP LIBERTY VEHICLES. ODI SENT A LETTER TO THE MANUFACTURER ON FEBRUARY 7, 2006, REQUESTING INFORMATION ABOUT THESE AND OTHER JEEP LIBERTY VEHICLES. BASED ON THE INFORMATION REVIEWED IN PE06-004, THE RANGE OF SUBJECT VEHICLES UNDER INVESTIGATION HAS BEEN EXPANDED TO INCLUDE ALL MY 2002-06 JEEP LIBERTY VEHICLES THAT USE THE SAME OR SUBSTANTIALLY SIMILAR FRONT SUSPENSION LOWER BALL JOINT. ODI IS AWARE OF 495 NON-DUPLICATIVE COMPLAINTS THAT ALLEGE INVOLUNTARY FRONT SUSPENSION LOWER BALL JOINT SEPARATION IN THE SUBJECT VEHICLES. ODI IS ALSO AWARE OF ONE NON-INJURY CRASH AND THREE ALLEGED INJURY INCIDENTS (TWO CRASH INCIDENTS AND ONE NON-CRASH INCIDENT) RELATED TO THE ALLEGED DEFECT RESULTING IN MINOR INJURIES. IT SHOULD BE NOTED THAT THE COMPLAINT COUNTS REPORTED ABOVE ONLY INCLUDE MY 2002-03 LIBERTY VEHICLES IF IT WAS DETERMINED THE ALLEGED BALL JOINT SEPARATION OCCURRED AFTER PRIOR RECALL REPAIRS WERE PERFORMED (SEE BELOW) OR IF THE VEHICLE WAS NOT SUBJECT TO THE PRIOR RECALL BECAUSE ITS VEHICLE IDENTIFICATION NUMBER (VIN) FELL OUTSIDE THE SCOPE OF AFFECTED VEHICLES IDENTIFIED BY THE MANUFACTURER. THE MANUFACTURER CONDUCTED A PRIOR SAFETY RECALL (03V-460) TO ADDRESS THE SUBJECT ISSUE IN CERTAIN MY 2002-03 JEEP LIBERTY VEHICLES. ACCORDING TO DAIMLERCHRYSLER’S DEFECT INFORMATION REPORT TO THE AGENCY (IN ACCORDANCE WITH 49 CFR PART 573) DATED NOVEMBER 4, 2003, “THE CONSTANT TENSION LOWER CONTROL ARM BALL JOINTS MAY EXPERIENCE A LOSS OF LUBRICATION WHICH CAN LEAD TO CORROSION, ACCELERATED WEAR AND POSSIBLY SEPARATION FROM THE STEERING KNUCKLE. A CONSTANT TENSION BALL JOINT WHICH HAS SEPARATED FROM THE KNUCKLE MAY RESULT IN LOSS OF VEHICLE CONTROL WITH MINIMAL ADVANCED WARNING.” THE MANUFACTURER HAS MADE NUMEROUS CHANGES IN THE DESIGN, MATERIAL COMPOSITION, MANUFACTURE, QUALITY CONTROL, SUPPLY, AND INSTALLATION OF THE SUBJECT BALL JOINTS SINCE THE PRIOR SAFETY RECALL WAS INITIATED IN AN EFFORT TO IMPROVE PERFORMANCE WITH RESPECT TO SEALING, LUBRICATION, AND JOINT RETENTION CAPABILITY. THE MANUFACTURER'S INVESTIGATION INTO ALLEGED FRONT SUSPENSION LOWER BALL JOINT SEPARATION IN THE SUBJECT VEHICLES IS ONGOING. ACCORDINGLY, THIS INVESTIGATION HAS BEEN UPGRADED TO AN ENGINEERING ANALYSIS TO FURTHER STUDY THE FREQUENCY AND SCOPE OF THE ALLEGED DEFECT AND THE ADEQUACY OF THE REMEDY PROVIDED BY THE PRIOR SAFETY RECALL.
http://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/cars/problems/defect/defectsearch.cfm
By the way they did tune up my car last week too. OY
OY what's next....
Good luck to you and your next vehicle.
The engine light came on and has stayed on since thursday7/6, i stopped at the local wal-mart thinking maybe the car might need some oil, when I came back out it would not start. i sat there for 30 mins before it would start. during that time I had called the car dealer, explained the problem to him and he told me to bring it back to the dealership on saturday. Friday, the car did fine although the engine light continued to stay on. Read in the owners manual that maybe bad fuel could cause this so went to a different gas station and put in some more gas. Got back in the car and it would not start. this time though I only had to wait about 2 mins and then it started. I had several errands to run on Saturday 7/8 before going to the dealership, and even though the engine light is still on, i had no problems with the car not starting, until I got home and then got ready to go to the dealership and again the car would not start. I waited about 30 mins, trying the different things the book tells you to try and finally the car started. I drove to the dealer, about 30 miles away and guess what? they told me I really needed to take it to a Jeep dealer who would be able to diagnose it, ( I bought it from a ford dealership at a fairly good price). So I got back in my jeep and it would not start. I had the mechanic, several salesmen and others out there trying to figure out why it would not start. finally after about 45 mins the car started.
Fortunately I bought a 2 year warranty with this car and i have an appointment with the jeep dealership who will honor this warranty. I would just like to know if anyone else has had this same problem and what the cause was found to be. The engine light continues to stay on while driving and when I did get home this afternoon, i shut off the car and of course it did not start. It acts like it wants to but seems to not be getting any gas or something to it. any answers, guesses or help that I could get before I take it to Jeep to get this fixed would be greatly appreciated. I hate to go to a car repair shop and not have at least some type of idea what my issue is. That helps me to keep from getting ripped off.
And if the trouble turns out to be something that is not covered under the $2000.00 warranty that I purchased, this jeep is going back to the ford dealer and with the sales man getting a piece of my mind. I will then file a lemon law thing on it , one way or another if this does not get fixed, i will get my money back.
again, any insight that anyone could give me would be most welcome as I am a single parent with no mechanic or other male around to help.
thanks :mad:
The 7 yr. 100,000 powertrain dont count. Each state is different.
My 2002 jeep(only 28,300) miles stalled going up a hill and 2 hrs later it started. 3 days later it would not start again then my light came on. Had my jeep towed to the dealer and they said i had a dead cell in my battery. Ok did the routine and even serviced my jeep just so 3 days later again the light came back on. I had no problems starting it so i drove it to the dealer and it was a vacuum leak. Good luck
Sorry for the late reply, just saw this. Hope you got it fixed but if not it is the blower motor resistor. Located on the heater box behind the glove box. Easy to replace and not too expensive ~$15.00 I think.
Hitch336
Farout
if it takes the mark out what stops it from coming back everytime it rains. Im afraid if I cover with seat covers what are they going to be like when I need to remove them later.
Wish me luck Im not giving up on this! Jeep is wrong and these should be recalled,I didn't buy a new car to have spotted seats just months after buying
Is this normal-
With ac button off, set air selector to floor and fan switch at 1 or 2. The compressor runs. Even if you move heat contol to hot, it still runs.
Change air selector to "vent and floor " or "vent" and the compressor goes off.
Made some modifications to it after I bought it, replaced stock air filter with K&N Filter & stock exhaust with Gibson Cat-Back system - sounds awesome, very throaty growl when revved up. Recently replaced stock cd player with an awesome Alpine w/Sirius Sat. Radio.
Engine light came on at about 15,000 miles, 6months after I bought it. Took it to dealer and was told it was a condensor switch??? that failed to engage. Was fixed in about an hour under warranty.
3/2005 at about 45,000 miles, had to replace battery.
8/2005 at about 62,000 miles replaced stock 215/75R-16 Goodyears with 235/70R-16 Yokohama Geolanders - damn good set of tires.
Now at 75,000 miles is starting to notice starter seems to be straining while starting engine. Will be buying a new starter soon, so that I can have it ready when stock starter goes out.
That's been about it, love my Jeep, especially running through these country roads here in So. Texas.
Farout
Farout
The air conditioner is enabled when the floor heat is selected but not when "Floor and vent " is selected.
In "Defrost " mode the A/C is reasonable but for winter heat on the floor , it makes no sense.
Winter air is VERY dry so dehumidifying is not important.
Fuel consumption is 5 to 10% poorer.
The A/C button could make the choice as it does in Vent mode.
The programmer must live in southern California and never travelled north.