Texaszach: I have the captains chairs and am very happy with them. Are there other dealers around that would have some in stock for you to look at? One of the big pluses in my book was the real center console -- there's so little storage space inside the trucks as it is, the full console is very useful.
lemans: Have you talked to your dealer (and another dealer) about the mileage you're getting? If so, what did they say?
As for the gas v. diesel debate:
o Financially they cost the same over 100K miles. o The gas engine is more convenient to fill. o The diesel is noisier outside, and very slightly noisier inside. o The resale on the gas is lower. o The purchase price of the gas is lower. o The gas pumps are just as good/bad as the diesels. o They'll both tow damn near anything. o Oil changes for the diesel cost twice as much. o Oil changes for the diesel happen half as often.
I think that if you want an 80,000 mile + truck, then you should get whichever one you like driving the best, with the exception that if you do almost all long-haul towing, you should get the diesel. I had a diesel stick that I used as a daily driver (30 miles each way every day) in Dallas traffic for five years -- never had a single problem with the engine.
markbuck: You change the oil in your diesel every 2500 miles? Eesh. I did mine every 7500 with generic 10W30. With 12 quarts of oil, it wasn't getting that bad that quickly. I'd change more often (5000) if I was towing or hauling a lot during the cycle.
Here's one for the books,ordered my SD4x4 on1/11 and its HERE!!!!!pick it up sat.morning.I didn't think it would get here till april or may.The kentucky plant must be gettin their butts in gear.
I BOUGHT A 1995 PSD F250 AND HAVE BEEN MORE THAN PLEASED WITH THE TRUCK AND DIESEL ENGINE . AT THE TIME I COULD AFFORD THE DIESEL ENGINE OR THE 4X4 OPTION . I OPTED FOR THE DIESEL SINCE I DON'T USE FOUR WHEEL DRIVE ON THE ROAD IN TEXAS THAT MUCH .I PULL SOME AND IT BEATS THE HELL OUT OF ANY GAS ENGINE YOU CAN BUY PERIOD . I CANT UNDERSTAND WHY A GUY WOULD BY A WIMP V 10 WHEN IT ONLY GETS 10 MILES PER GALLON WITH A TAIL WIND . THIS STROKE WILL POP YOUR NECK IF YOU STOMP ON IT AND TURNS ALL KINDS OF HEADS WHEN IT STROLLS DOWN THE ROAD BECAUSE YOU KNOW A STROKE IS COMING .IF YOU CAN AFFORD THESE TYPE OF TRUCKS WHATS THE BIG DEAL ON GAS MILEAGE ANY WAY . CANT SAY THAT MUCH FOR THE NEWER 99 MODELS . THEY ARE TOO TAME . HAVE DRIVEN SOME AND CANT SEE THE INCREASE IN POWER . DON'T KNOW IF THE FULL BLOWN BANKS INTERCOOLER KIT WOULD BE WORTH IT . BUT THEY SAY IT WOULD CRAWL OVER THE BACKS OF THE 99'S , BUT I AM PUSHING THEM OUT OF THE WAY NOW !
strokin That's a lot shoutin' over a lot of hot air. No way is the '95 PSD more powerful than the '99 PSD or v-10. The 95 with its blow by turbo and no intercooler doesn't stand a chance against a new PSD. If you are pushing them out of the way now, it is only because we drive with a little more sense. Now if you really want to add power to that 95, add a smaller turbo housing with a wastegate in addition to the intercooler and exhaust. Then you will be right around the level of a new PSD. .............. everyone
FYI Pulled my travel trailer (10K) back to my home today against a 25-30mph head wind. At 65 the console read 8mpg (reset avg. mpg), tucked in behind a semi and got 13.5 mpg. PSD 4.10 CC 4x4 All in how you drive.
.............. mroffshore
On those mirrors, isn't there a product that you can put on mirrors to keep them from frosting up? I've also looked through about every catalog I had, but can't find a mirror heater that I remember seeing someplace. It stuck to the back side of the mirror and had an automatic control that mounted under the dash, out of sight. I don't know if the new mirrors are conducive to that kind of application, but will keep looking.
I thought I had posted this like I said I would, but I don't see it back there either:
From the Frame and Body Mounting section of the Workshop Manual: Caution: when welding is performed anywhere on the vehicle, any parts which could be damaged by excessive temperatures should be removed or adequately shielded. Also prior to welding, disconnect both batteries, then the ABS module, then the PCM. The welding ground clamp should be positioned as close to the affected welding area as possible. Computer processors should be removed if welding is to be done in their proximity. Welding cables should never be allowed to lay on, near, or across any electrical wiring or electrical component during welding. After welding, when parts are cool, carefully inspect wiring and electrical components for shorts or other damage which could cause an electrical system short when the battery is reconnected. When welding low carbon steel side rails, emphasis should be placed upon weld application techniques to avoid stress risers that may adversely affect frame operating stresses. When welding within 4" of any crossmember rivet, remove the rivets and replace with grade 8 bolt/nuts. Do not weld on any reinforcement. Use compression type fasteners when attaching any component to the frame in the reinforced area.
Welding to the frame flange is not recommended; welding to the side web is preferred. If welding must be done to frame do not use gas welding equipment. MIG welding is the only approved method.
When welding near fuel system components, all metallic components should be adequately shielded and protected from hear or weld splatter. All non-metallic components should be removed.
The Body Builder's book repeats the warnings about disconnecting batteries, ABS, and PCM.
AIRWOLF, You must be a friend of Gary's. He has no intention of selling $100 over invoice and I gave him a chance to give me his best. If 2% is the best he can do, than I can live with that, but I also need to find a better deal than what he was willing to give. I found a dealer in Kissimmee that will beat his offer hands down and I will go this weekend and order.
I too have a 95 power stroke f250 and the v10's cant keep up with me . I pull hay trailers and stock trailers in the 10k to 11k range with no trouble . These trucks just pull and a lot of guys I talk to who traded for the new 99 strokes wished they had there old strokes back , really !
Thanks for that. I'm sure there is something I can spray on the mirrors, I just have to get to the parts store. Check that other thing you were talking about, I still can't believe Ford left that out.
Lemans,
I had the good mileage 3-4k into my miles. I averaged again today on the highway 20 mpg on 20 mile stretches of road at 66mph. That is with winter diesel. Hey I think the v10 is a great engine no doubt about it. Unless the v10 is having an out of body experience,(HAHA) there is no way your going to get much more then 55% of the fuel mileage that the PSD is getting. It's great now while OPEC keeps on with the flow but sooner or later the reg gas will sneak back up and some guys will be crying. Some day I may regret this but right now it was a good move for me.
Markbuck,
It cost me $26 to change my oil. I use 15w-30 Shell Rotella. I go 5,000 miles on each change. I've read all there is to read on oils and break down. Your wasting money if you change it sooner. It HAS BEEN PROVEN over and over in studies using trucks and NY taxi cabs. I also drive 10-12 miles per day to work and/or around town no problems thus far mileage or other wise. I have several friends who frequent the mountains of upstate Penn. all winter long and have for several years with temps dropping many times to 10-0 degrees and down to 25 below. They never plugged the heater in and never had a problem starting nor did they have glow plug problems. This has been going on for years.
Bottom line, the PSD can and will be an every day around town or long distance driving machine that is not that expensive to maintain! My friends convinced me and professor Rich convinced me. This is the last time I'll discuss this issue, end of Story!!!!! Debate is good!!!!!
Brownfishman,
What would Tim the Tool Man choose? PSD or V10 I love you Man! HAHAHAHA More Power More Power
Standord: I appreciate your input and am leaning towards the captains chairs w/console.
Rebel2: One of my clients traded in a 97 PSD on a 99, he was by the shop last week and did say he wished he would have kept his 97. Upon questioning he revealed that the 97 had a 4.10 axle ratio, while the 99 has 3.73. Perhaps that has something to do with what those guys disatisfaction, because horsepwer and torque on the 99 PSD is the highest its ever been.
Kudos from the Great White North! I'm still not on-line yet up here in Anchorage. I'm logged in at a friends house, so this will have to be brief. I likely won't be on-line again until April-ish. I didn't come close to reading all of the post. there were 361 new posts in this topic since I last logged on.
I left Dallas on 12/31 with a 4,000 pound U-haul trailer in tow behind my truck (F-350 auto trans V-10 4.30 4x4 dually). Needless to say, I couldn't even tell the trailer was behind me. The worst weather on the way to Seattle was the ice storm in Oklahoma and Kansas. I recorded all of my mileage figures for the entire trip, but I don't have them with me. The best mileage was in the 9 mpg range. The worst was the climb from Hays Kansas to Denver in strong headwinds. I got 6.8 mpg on two consecutive tanks. With the 4.30, the truck rarely down shifted out of O/D except on really steep inclines.
I dropped the U-Haul in Seattle and headed to Canada to pick up my slide-in camper. The dry weight was 3,600 pounds. The dealer built a special platform for me. The truck handled great with the camper on. There was no need for airbags or special shocks. Most of the driving to Alaska was done with the O/D locked out because I was climbing through mountains in winter conditions. The temp dropped below zero in Prince George and it didn't get above zero again until I was about three hours out of Anchorage. The average temp was 23-28 below zero, with the coldest temp being minus 36.
I was most impressed with the engine braking. I rarely had to use the brakes on descents. The largest incline I encountered was a 10% grade, both up and down. Since the road had snow and ice, I opted to use 2nd gear and had no problems maintaining speed. 2nd gear also kept the speed constant on the descent.
With the O/D locked out and the truck in 4wd much of the time, I was averaging around 7.5 mpg with the camper on. On the open freeway in 2wd, I was able to get 8.5-9.
I had no problems with the ESOF. I tested it numerous times in subzero temps and had no problems.
After reaching Anchorage, I stored the camper. I haven't been able to test the mpg here in town yet. The gas up here has 10% ethanol in it. I've heard that hurts the mpg. The reason I haven't been able to test the mpg yet is because I haven't driven my truck in about three weeks. One morning, I cranked it up and there was a ticking sound. A rocker arm came loose and damaged the cam. After three days of communicating with Detroit, Ford sent a new engine. It is currently being installed. I am due to get the truck back on Monday.
I was very impressed with the truck on the trip. The engine problem appears to be a fluke. I'm glad it didn't happen on the trip up. The local dealer has been very cooperative, even though I didn't buy the truck from them. I did buy my 92 from them a few years ago. They even gave me a loaner car. The Contour I am currently driving doesn't match up to my truck, but I don't stop at as many gas stations. The truck has 9,500 miles on it. In the long run, I'll probably benefit from having a new engine at this point. Can't wait to get the truck back.
Hello,according to the dealership my truck will arrive the week of March 1st, with enough time to break it in before i start to haul cord wood up to my camp in northern N.H. for another year of fishing and hunting! You just have to have camp fires in the evening!! 1999 Ford sd, sc, swb,srw, V-10,5-speed,3.73,4X4,off road in bright red. Anyone have any experiance with a unit called highrider loading system? Its used to carry an ATV on the rails of the bed,it seems very slick!!
I was just thinking about you a few days ago. I was wondering how you made out. Good to hear from you and I'm glad you made it ok.
I have a college buddy living up there. He is stationed in the Army, I guess there is a base near you. He e-mails me every week. Sounds like a hostile environment right now. Maybe more hostile then Lambo Field in Greenbay, on the frozen tundra! HAHAHA
Take care and looking forward to reading your informative post's again!
Congratulations on successfully negotiating the Alcan! That highway has a history of being an engine eater. It ate the 302 in my parents Torino wagon back in '74 on a trip out in December. Stuck at Muncho Lake for a week over the Christmas holiday while the replacement engine was freighted in.
Glad to hear that mostly all went well and that despite the problem, your getting taken care of well. Is it's Cal's, Stepp Bro's, or Nye that your dealing with? Look forward to your returning to the discussion soon.
Yesterday I visited a local Ford dealer, and saw what I thought to be just another F-250SD Super Cab pickup. Upon a second glance, I couldn't believe my eyes: This "pickup" had 3 locking compartments on each rear fender. It looked exactly like a "factory" pickup - with all the curves and bends in the sheetmetal, as well as the stock tail lights, that normal pickup has, except that it had storage compartments like that of a utility body! Needless to say, I had to check this out.
Only from the rear of the vehicle, does it look a bit different. The tailgate - still with the factory-looking curves and locking tailgate feature (but minus the Ford logo and F-250 badge), is noticeably narrower than the stock tailgate. This is to accommodate the width of the "thicker" fenders. The inside of the pickup bed goes straight up. There is no indentations for the wheelwheels. The top edge of the bed and tailgate also has protective lip, again just like the normal factory pickup. Only this time, because of the width of the fender, it looks like 8" or 9" flat platform, rather than the narrow protective lip found on the stock pickup.
It also appeared to be very well constructed. The compartment doors are hinged via "struts", like those you find on a hatchback. The galvanized steel shelves are adjustable for position, and the compartment doors close with a quality feel. All-in-all, a very nice package!
I asked the salesman who the outfitter was, but he didn't know.
I know GM has been offering a "designer" utility body for some time, but this one takes that approach to a whole new level.
I've posted before that I thought this idea of a utility body - combined with a standard pickup-looking body would be a terrific idea. Now somebody has gone and done it.
If anyone is interested in the "utility-bodied-pickup" that I mentioned, you could contact Century Ford in Mt. Airy Maryland. I'm sure someone there could track down who the outfitter is.
Here's a chance for everyones input. I'm buying a new RV that will be in the 11-12k weight range. Something needs to be done with the auto tranny, OD won't hold speed. Pretty sure I know what I'm going to do, but would like to here input from you. Here are the specs. F350 CC 4x4 PSD DRW 4.10 Some possibilities include: auxilary transmission shift kits and controllers torque converters pcm chips other????
I don't understand the problem. What is wrong with running in 3rd gear (D) when towing? Fuel economy will probably be almost the same running in 3rd. Tranny life will be better towing in 3rd. You will probably not wear out the engine before you sell this vehicle so the extra RPM's shouldn't be a problem. I used to tow in 4th (5speed) all the time with my 7.3 when towing more than 1/2 of the rated tow amount. The Ford manual used to specify this........
Personally, I'd get the Banks Ottomind (or whatever they're calling it this year). Your stock torque converter should be alright -- might need to swap for a lower stall rate but I don't think so.
What problems are you having with the 11K trailer? Most I've towed was about 7K and the auto didn't have any problems in O/D.
Found some more info on that utility-bodied pickup I saw/posted about the other day. It's manufactured by Royal Truck Body of Paramount CA. They also offer a Chevy version too. Here's their web site:
If you follow the links, you can see the Chevy version, as well as all other types of truck bodies they offer. The Ford version is called the "Sport," and the Chevy version is called the Apache."
Those are impressive. If I didn't have DRW I would seriously consider one of them! Then again, I don't think they'd work with a 5th wheel, but a gooseneck wouldn't be a problem.
texaszach: Hope it's not true about Lariat availability! I ordered mine on Saturday - F250 Lariat CC 4WD PSD Auto 3.73 LS in Bright Amber/Light Prairie Tan. My dealer didn't say anything about delays (big surprise) but I'll call him to check.
I've been pondering this purchase for so long, I would hate to have it held up at this point. They told me to expect 8 weeks, and I've been pretty optimistic based on the latest delivery information posted here.
At any rate, I'll wait! Now begins the weeks of daydreaming and wishing the time away... Survival tips, anyone?
They should know at the time of ordering if there are any delays. The computer system that Ford uses won't let them enter an order than won't be processed. When I ordered mine, I'd heard that a lot of things (from the ESOF to the lariat wheels) were on hold -- the order went in without a glitch and the truck arrived in 31 days.
I just talked to my dealer, and he said they haven't been told anything about a hold on the Lariat. He will double check and call me back if it's true, and I'll let you know.
I'm not sure of the relation of 4th manual and 3rd auto, but in 3rd auto the rpms are around 2700 at highway speeds. This motor is more than capable of handling this load at a lower rpm, the tranny just won't go. Fuel economy drops considerably running at that rpm, even under load. My 6.5 chevy did better as far as holding 4th, but it wasn't stock.
stanford
I looked at the Banks TransCommand, ordered one just to see if it works. Also looked at B&M's equipment. Waiting on a call from them. Do you know anything on the valve body plates that they change in electronic transmissions? I use to do this in old hydromatics, but wondered how they worked with the new trannys. The biggest problem I have is that the transmission won't stay in OD. This was even evident with my old trailer, just not to the extent it is now. Like I said before, my 6.5 chevy would hold 11k in OD and accelerate. Banks also said their new '99 stuff would be out March 1st. Sounds impressive.
Got over 2000 miles on the Beast and all is going great. No runs, no hits & no errors. Sure is fun driving the V-10, lots of power and it seems to be getting stronger. Had a friend tell me a couple days ago he had to take his SD PSD back to the shop. Seems his clutch petal was engaging all the way at the floorboard. He asked the service dept about this and was told it was natural. He said to adjust it toward the top of the petal. Turns out they had to run new lines since the problem was caused by short lines that made the clutch engage toward the floor and they had to install longer lines and fixed the problem. I can't relate to this since I have the V-10 automatic. Any PSD with manual tranny having this problem ? Sad to hear about the delay on the Lariat, might be the reason I waited 16 weeks. Well worth it. Y'all have a good evening. The Brown Fish Man.
Brown Fish Man: It has taken me a while to get used to the clutch on my v10 5spd. Only mine engages near the top of the travel, as opposed to my 91 Explorer that engages mid travel. Since the accelerator depresses easily and the v10 revs fast on the SD, I have to careful that I don't burn rubber starting up. Since both the SD and the Explorer have hydraulic clutch linkage, I am not aware of any adjustments, other than replacing the master or slave cylinders in the case of fluid bypassing the pistons. Changing the hydraulic lines on a new truck seems strange.
We just got back from a 1000 mi trip (330 mi to 1300 mi) from southern to northern CA to visit our daughter (I let her ride in the SD, but didn't let her drive). The truck performed beautifully. Since this was part of the break-in period, I varied the speed a lot, which was kind of fun when I felt the power of the v10. On the way back, we found that we could accelerate in 5th gear going up the Grapevine (a famous long steep grade). Could never do that in any of my other vehicles.
I have a 250SD SC V-10 5 spd w/ 3.73 rear. I seem to not need the 1st gear for getting going for anything but a steep hill when unloaded - anybody else experience this? 2nd gear seems just fine for getting going most of the time.
I sort of wish Ford offered a 3.55 axle ratio to improve fuel mileage.
They do -- its in the F150. The F-SDs were designed to compromise daily drivability in exchange for exceptional workhorse utility -- the F-LDs were designed the other way 'round.
Hello marc2 For 90% of most peoples driving 2nd is their "1" gear. My own experience, the only times I use 1st is for dragging a loaded 6 horse trailer out of elk camp. Or when you are feeding by yourself and put it in 1st and let it crawl while you pull bales off the back. Most of the time, even when pulling just two horses 2nd starts it fine without abusing the clutch.
I'm about to become a 1999 F250 SuperDuty Lariet Power Stroke extended cab long bed owner. Sticker shock should be over within about four more weeks. The basic reason for this vehicle is to pull a 10,000+ pound 5th wheel. According to the Ford sales person, Ford has had serious complaints from 5th wheel owners because the bed of the truck is too high - as much as 6 inches higher than previous models. Ford (with a special kit) has agreed - under warranty - to lower the bed 3 and 3 quarter inches by removing the blocks and installing new shocks and brake lines. They claim that with this lowering kit, they successfully meet the requirements of all 5th wheels out there. My servicing dealer (Castle Rock, CO) has also agreed to give me the original blocks, shocks and brake lines in case I want to return the vehicle to it's original configuration. Does anyone out there have more enlightening news on this subject? PS: The RV place that will service the 5th wheel also stated that the 5th wheel axles can be reversed to raise the 5th wheel to get the best "level" of the whole nine yards - truck and 5th wheel. Where are the days when things were simple??
Indeed, the 99's are 5 to 6 inches higher than their previous counterparts. While at the Ft. Worth New Car Show last weekend, I heard a Ford salesman telling a potential customer of this lowering kit in response to complaints from 5th wheel owners. I can't enlighten you further Bruce, merely writing to verify what you have been told.
Has anyone compared the height of the new '99s to a comparable Dodge 4X4 DRW? I remember that the Dodges were taller than the old Fords -- from glances on the highway they're not that much different. Yet nobody complains about the Dodge. They're certainly not 5" shorter than the Fords.
the Ford F350 4x4 is 3 inches taller than a Dodge Ram 3500 4x4 (81 inches over 78 inches). The Ram is also an inch and a half narrower over the dually fenders - the Ford is a hair over 95, the Dodge is 93.7.
kcram: The F-SD also has a taller cab. This is why Brutus (and others) are having to make custom platforms for slide-in campers that have a cab overhang (ie: all of them) to fit. Is this also necessary for the Dodge?
Let's end this once and for all. Can you make the following measurements on your 4x4 DRW (I'll make them too) and post the numbers:
Bed-rail height at the center of the wheelwell opening Bed-rail height at the end of the bed Floor height at the end of the bed (not the end of the tailgate)
That should give us the floor height at the center of the truck (hitch positions vary, but they're all based on the rear axle) and bed-rail height at the rear of the truck. These two measurements seem to be the ones most 5th-wheelers are concerned with for fit.
Personally, I've never 5th-wheeled (although I'm thinking about it) and the newer Featherlite goosenecks I'm looking at have been made to accomodate these monsters at stock height.
Sorry that this is not a legitimate Super Duty question but the CB will be used in my truck. :-) I am thinking about getting a handheld CB but have no idea what kind of range it may have. I have never had a CB before. Can somebody tell me what kind of range a handheld may have from inside a truck with the standard little antennae on the radio itself ?
Bruce21 - Just wanted to let you know my experience so far so you won't be too surprised if your Super Duty takes longer than 8 weeks. I ordered my F250 CC 4x4 Lariat V10 3.73 LSD off road, etc., etc., on 11/2/98. The dealer told me 20 weeks max. I felt at the time that since the local dealers here in Las Vegas told me anywhere between 8 to 14 weeks, he was probably being more honest with me (the dealer is in Oklahoma), and the price was a LOT better. It's now a few days short of 16 weeks and so far no VIN#, no build date, no delivery date, nada. I'm getting ready to move back to SoCal within the next two months and I need the truck. If I don't have the truck or at least a build date in the next few weeks I'm going to cancel my order and go buy something off the lot (probably not a Ford at this point). I found this discussion group several weeks after ordering and have learned a lot that I didn't know before (i.e. complete ignorance) about the system - dealer allotments, priorities, factory delays, etc. If I could do it all over I would have shopped for a dealer who could deliver more quickly rather than saving a few hundred $'s. Anyway, I hope your wait is a lot shorter than mine, but if you get yours before I do I'll really be pissed. That's all of my venting for today...
Why does the 99 F350 DRW CC LWB PSD pickup have a max GVWR of 11200, yet the chassis cab can go to 12500? Ford claims that both frames are made out of similar strength material, does the bend in the frame really weaken it 1300 pounds? [actually, since the bed weight is included in the pickup's curb weight (7500) vs the chassiscab curb weight (7100) it's about a 1700# difference] [The spring packs appear to be the same, I've seen both chassiscab and pickup with either the 5leaf base spring or the larger pack if you choose the "HD suspension"] [I did get a moment to look at a pickup and chassis cab side by side (but the pickup left the dealer's lot before I could go back in daylight). They both looked identical below the frame. (Front end frame looked the same too). I only used my fingers to measure the frame, but they were real close in size, but different in shape.]
This may sound like a silly question to most, but I took the time to weigh all the things that will go into / onto the new truck when it gets here (tools, tool boxes, winch, cap, roof rack, etc), and I'll only have a 500# margin for "additional cargo" [in what's left of the bed and on the roof rack and trailer tongue weight.] (Ford's numbers all assume a passenger in every seat and that's the way I want to figure it, cause this is also the family car.)
We travel to Canada each year fishing and we pull our own boats- two vehs and two boats. One of the vehs had a installed CB so we thought it good to pick up a hand held CB so we could talk during the long trip. The installed CB had the usual range of about 5 miles and the hand held unit was just about line of sight up to 3/4 mile. If we became separated by terrain or more than 3/4 mile the signal was lost. The hand held unit just did not work well at all. A good set of walkie talkies probably would do better. The one we use was the Cobra that cost about $100.00. I will probably install a CB in my truck too, I'm still trying to figure a place for the antenna that does not distract from the looks of the truck. Happy Trucking.....The Brown Fish Man
With nothing better to do than scour the internet while I wait impatiently for my 4x4 SD CC V10 Lariat, I came across the following site www.paxtonautomotive.com They've just released a supercharger for the Ford V10. Cost is around $4500, 40-60% increase in hp. Thought it might be of interest. Personally, I'm tempted..........however, while my heart says yes, my head says no!
First time poster. Ordered my SD 250,PSD,SWB,4WD,3.73, auto on 1-22-99. Dealer gave me a copy of the order and after reading earlier posts I tried the 800 numbers to check on the progress of my order. On 2-10-99 the order has yet to be picked up by Ford but was received by them on order date. I spoke to Bruce at the plant and he asked me what my priority number was and I told him it was 89 and he said I'd be lucky to get it in 1999. He said to have dealer change to 10-13 and it would be the highest priority. On 2-10-99 my dealer changed the priority to 10 and sent me a copy of the order change. My dealer also informed me that they originally placed the order in their fleet sales and said it would have priority over retail and stock orders. Now its a retail with a priority of 10. Does anyone have any info about what was done and if I'll get it any sooner? Also, I can't seem to get a question answered through the dealer or the factory. Does the SD automatically come with the aux. transmission cooler? Most seem to think that it does but not definite. It is not mentioned in the trailer tow or camper packages. In my 1989 F250 it came with the trailer tow pkg. Thanks in advance for any info that you can provide. gb
Thanks for the info. It sounds like a handheld is definately not what I want. But like you I am not too keen on the choices for antennae's. I have seen some small cell phone looking antennae that may not be too bad. I've seen them on the rear window. I'm just not sure if the range will be up to normal standards. Maybe my old girlfriends were right about size mattering. I'm leaning toward one of those hood mount jobs. I think the bracket may be able to use one of the existing fender bolts. Hopefully one of those bolts will be enough. I just can't bring myself to drill holes in my ride. I'm betting that the coax will feed through the hood release cable grommet if I put a little slice in it. If you do something about a CB soon please let me know what you decide on. Thanks.
I ordered my SD last Friday, February 12th. The dealer said we should have a build date within two weeks. Yesterday my dealer faxed me an order confirmation from Ford which gave an order number but no build date as of yet. This confirmation shows my truck to be a priority 14.
Get a magnet mount K40 antenna. antenna height is adjustable for vfr, rvf, ....you know the tuning thing and you can talk for miles. The magnet is good for about 50lbs so make sure the surface is clean and you aim good. Easily removable and stashable behind the seat when not in use. Had pretty good luck with Radio Shack cb's, but they are probably all fairly good as long as they are 5 watts. Mounted mine to a temporary RS hump mount with a cigarette lighter adaptor. Poor man's cell phone......
cb antenna .... Does Radio Shack still sell the combination radio/cb antenna that mounts in the stock location? I remember seeing these some years ago, don't know how good they are for either application though.
Auto Transmission .... Contacted Level 10 Transmissions in NJ. They are sending me a shift kit for the E40D that had a Ford part # for export. Good-bye slush box. Also ordered a chip for the computer to control shift points and tune the motor a bit. Will keep you posted on results.
Markbuck, I had a trucker friend pick me up a CB unit and it has the K40 mount and K40 Magnetic Base. The unit is a Cobra 29 WX ST which has been "tweeked" by the place of purchase to 19 watts. I'm told this will add some distance but increase the clarity two-fold. This unit also has the weather channel and a few more perks. I have never had anything "tweeked" before, always went standard out of the box, any comments here ? Also am thinking of installing the CB and speaker in a portable box so I can use when needed and remove or place in the back seat when not needed, this would solve the problem of where to install the CB under the dash. Has anyone installe a CB unit under the dash and if so where ?
Mac24: I sent you a E-mail....Good luck.
Took the "Brute" and the 20' Norriscraft Bassboat w/tandem trailor fishing wednesday and was so impressed with the power of the V-10 power. Only have to use the first 1/2 inch of the gas petal. That SD is one nice ride. Kudos & Accolades to all (Ain't that impressive Mr. Offshord )???? The Brown Fish Man
I have owned several brand new vehicles, and know it is common to hear a ticking noise from the exhaust, engine, etc. when a vehicle is new. Even after you shut it off. I guess things are settling. I have heard the same type of noise after getting a new exhaust system on older vehicles. But my Super D has over 2000 miles on it and it still ticks while running and after I shut it off. I don't remember ticking lasting so long on a new vehicle. Does anyone else have this?
I just installed a Radio Shack CB on the recessed area thats just above the transfer case lever. It's a small unit so it fit well. I just had to drill 2 holes in the plastic to mount the bracket. If I ever pull out the CB the holes will not be seen by anyone except those who feel the need to look at things from knee level. I ran power from the cigarette lighter. I removed the ashtray and it mounting unit and had enough access to splice in to the wires. Everything looks pretty sanitary. Now I just need to decide if I'm going to keep my current antennae setup.
Sounds like we are having the same cracks and pops which I think is quite normal during the break in period. Even though the pops and pings continue for several minutes after shutoff I figure it is just the metal becoming "tempered" or maybe Ford has used a better metal that has a faster exchange rate of heat and thus keeping the engine/exhaust cooler while driving. Just my .02 worth here. The Brown Fish Man
Comments
lemans: Have you talked to your dealer (and another dealer) about the mileage you're getting? If so, what did they say?
As for the gas v. diesel debate:
o Financially they cost the same over 100K miles.
o The gas engine is more convenient to fill.
o The diesel is noisier outside, and very
slightly noisier inside.
o The resale on the gas is lower.
o The purchase price of the gas is lower.
o The gas pumps are just as good/bad as the diesels.
o They'll both tow damn near anything.
o Oil changes for the diesel cost twice as much.
o Oil changes for the diesel happen half as often.
I think that if you want an 80,000 mile + truck, then you should get whichever one you like driving the best, with the exception that if you do almost all long-haul towing, you should get the diesel. I had a diesel stick that I used as a daily driver (30 miles each way every day) in Dallas traffic for five years -- never had a single problem with the engine.
markbuck: You change the oil in your diesel every 2500 miles? Eesh. I did mine every 7500 with generic 10W30. With 12 quarts of oil, it wasn't getting that bad that quickly. I'd change more often (5000) if I was towing or hauling a lot during the cycle.
PULL SOME AND IT BEATS THE HELL OUT OF ANY GAS ENGINE YOU CAN BUY PERIOD . I CANT UNDERSTAND WHY A GUY WOULD BY A WIMP V 10 WHEN IT ONLY GETS 10 MILES PER GALLON WITH A TAIL WIND . THIS STROKE WILL POP YOUR NECK IF YOU STOMP ON IT AND TURNS ALL KINDS OF HEADS WHEN IT STROLLS DOWN THE ROAD BECAUSE YOU KNOW A STROKE IS COMING .IF YOU CAN AFFORD THESE TYPE OF TRUCKS WHATS THE BIG DEAL ON GAS MILEAGE ANY WAY . CANT SAY THAT MUCH FOR THE NEWER 99 MODELS . THEY ARE TOO TAME . HAVE DRIVEN SOME AND CANT SEE THE INCREASE IN POWER . DON'T KNOW IF THE FULL BLOWN BANKS INTERCOOLER KIT WOULD BE WORTH IT . BUT THEY SAY IT WOULD CRAWL OVER THE BACKS OF THE 99'S , BUT I AM PUSHING THEM OUT OF THE WAY NOW !
That's a lot shoutin' over a lot of hot air. No way is the '95 PSD more powerful than the '99 PSD or v-10. The 95 with its blow by turbo and no intercooler doesn't stand a chance against a new PSD. If you are pushing them out of the way now, it is only because we drive with a little more sense. Now if you really want to add power to that 95, add a smaller turbo housing with a wastegate in addition to the intercooler and exhaust. Then you will be right around the level of a new PSD.
..............
everyone
FYI Pulled my travel trailer (10K) back to my home today against a 25-30mph head wind. At 65 the console read 8mpg (reset avg. mpg), tucked in behind a semi and got 13.5 mpg. PSD 4.10 CC 4x4
All in how you drive.
..............
mroffshore
On those mirrors, isn't there a product that you can put on mirrors to keep them from frosting up? I've also looked through about every catalog I had, but can't find a mirror heater that I remember seeing someplace. It stuck to the back side of the mirror and had an automatic control that mounted under the dash, out of sight. I don't know if the new mirrors are conducive to that kind of application, but will keep looking.
From the Frame and Body Mounting section of the Workshop Manual:
Caution: when welding is performed anywhere on the vehicle, any parts which could be damaged by excessive temperatures should be removed or adequately shielded. Also prior to welding, disconnect both batteries, then the ABS module, then the PCM. The welding ground clamp should be positioned as close to the affected welding area as possible. Computer processors should be removed if welding is to be done in their proximity. Welding cables should never be allowed to lay on, near, or across any electrical wiring or electrical component during welding. After welding, when parts are cool, carefully inspect wiring and electrical components for shorts or other damage which could cause an electrical system short when the battery is reconnected.
When welding low carbon steel side rails, emphasis should be placed upon weld application techniques to avoid stress risers that may adversely affect frame operating stresses. When welding within 4" of any crossmember rivet, remove the rivets and replace with grade 8 bolt/nuts.
Do not weld on any reinforcement. Use compression type fasteners when attaching any component to the frame in the reinforced area.
Welding to the frame flange is not recommended; welding to the side web is preferred.
If welding must be done to frame do not use gas welding equipment. MIG welding is the only approved method.
When welding near fuel system components, all metallic components should be adequately shielded and protected from hear or weld splatter. All non-metallic components should be removed.
The Body Builder's book repeats the warnings about disconnecting batteries, ABS, and PCM.
You must be a friend of Gary's. He has no intention of selling $100 over invoice and I gave him a chance to give me his best. If 2% is the best he can do, than I can live with that, but I also need to find a better deal than what he was willing to give. I found a dealer in Kissimmee that will beat his offer hands down and I will go this weekend and order.
I too have a 95 power stroke f250 and the v10's cant keep up with me . I pull hay trailers and stock trailers in the 10k to 11k range with no trouble . These trucks just pull and a lot of guys
I talk to who traded for the new 99 strokes wished they had there old strokes back , really !
Thanks for that. I'm sure there is something I can spray on the mirrors, I just have to get to the parts store. Check that other thing you were talking about, I still can't believe Ford left that out.
Lemans,
I had the good mileage 3-4k into my miles. I averaged again today on the highway 20 mpg on 20 mile stretches of road at 66mph. That is with winter diesel. Hey I think the v10 is a great engine no doubt about it. Unless the v10 is having an out of body experience,(HAHA) there is no way your going to get much more then 55% of the fuel mileage that the PSD is getting. It's great now while OPEC keeps on with the flow but sooner or later the reg gas will sneak back up and some guys will be crying. Some day I may regret this but right now it was a good move for me.
Markbuck,
It cost me $26 to change my oil. I use 15w-30 Shell Rotella. I go 5,000 miles on each change. I've read all there is to read on oils and break down. Your wasting money if you change it sooner. It HAS BEEN PROVEN over and over in studies using trucks and NY taxi cabs. I also drive 10-12 miles per day to work and/or around town no problems thus far mileage or other wise. I have several friends who frequent the mountains of upstate Penn. all winter long and have for several years with temps dropping many times to 10-0 degrees and down to 25 below. They never plugged the heater in and never had a problem starting nor did they have glow plug problems. This has been going on for years.
Bottom line, the PSD can and will be an every day around town or long distance driving machine that is not that expensive to maintain! My friends convinced me and professor Rich convinced me. This is the last time I'll discuss this issue, end of Story!!!!! Debate is good!!!!!
Brownfishman,
What would Tim the Tool Man choose? PSD or V10
I love you Man! HAHAHAHA More Power More Power
Mroffshore
Rebel2: One of my clients traded in a 97 PSD on a 99, he was by the shop last week and did say he wished he would have kept his 97. Upon questioning he revealed that the 97 had a 4.10 axle ratio, while the 99 has 3.73. Perhaps that has something to do with what those guys disatisfaction, because horsepwer and torque on the 99 PSD is the highest its ever been.
I left Dallas on 12/31 with a 4,000 pound U-haul trailer in tow behind my truck (F-350 auto trans V-10 4.30 4x4 dually). Needless to say, I couldn't even tell the trailer was behind me. The worst weather on the way to Seattle was the ice storm in Oklahoma and Kansas. I recorded all of my mileage figures for the entire trip, but I don't have them with me. The best mileage was in the 9 mpg range. The worst was the climb from Hays Kansas to Denver in strong headwinds. I got 6.8 mpg on two consecutive tanks. With the 4.30, the truck rarely down shifted out of O/D except on really steep inclines.
I dropped the U-Haul in Seattle and headed to Canada to pick up my slide-in camper. The dry weight was 3,600 pounds. The dealer built a special platform for me. The truck handled great with the camper on. There was no need for airbags or special shocks. Most of the driving to Alaska was done with the O/D locked out because I was climbing through mountains in winter conditions. The temp dropped below zero in Prince George and it didn't get above zero again until I was about three hours out of Anchorage. The average temp was 23-28 below zero, with the coldest temp being minus 36.
I was most impressed with the engine braking. I rarely had to use the brakes on descents. The largest incline I encountered was a 10% grade, both up and down. Since the road had snow and ice, I opted to use 2nd gear and had no problems maintaining speed. 2nd gear also kept the speed constant on the descent.
With the O/D locked out and the truck in 4wd much of the time, I was averaging around 7.5 mpg with the camper on. On the open freeway in 2wd, I was able to get 8.5-9.
I had no problems with the ESOF. I tested it numerous times in subzero temps and had no problems.
After reaching Anchorage, I stored the camper. I haven't been able to test the mpg here in town yet. The gas up here has 10% ethanol in it. I've heard that hurts the mpg. The reason I haven't been able to test the mpg yet is because I haven't driven my truck in about three weeks. One morning, I cranked it up and there was a ticking sound. A rocker arm came loose and damaged the cam. After three days of communicating with Detroit, Ford sent a new engine. It is currently being installed. I am due to get the truck back on Monday.
I was very impressed with the truck on the trip. The engine problem appears to be a fluke. I'm glad it didn't happen on the trip up. The local dealer has been very cooperative, even though I didn't buy the truck from them. I did buy my 92 from them a few years ago. They even gave me a loaner car. The Contour I am currently driving doesn't match up to my truck, but I don't stop at as many gas stations. The truck has 9,500 miles on it. In the long run, I'll probably benefit from having a new engine at this point. Can't wait to get the truck back.
arrive the week of March 1st, with enough time
to break it in before i start to haul cord wood up
to my camp in northern N.H. for another year of
fishing and hunting! You just have to have camp
fires in the evening!! 1999 Ford sd, sc, swb,srw,
V-10,5-speed,3.73,4X4,off road in bright red.
Anyone have any experiance with a unit called
highrider loading system? Its used to carry an ATV on the rails of the bed,it seems very slick!!
Thanks
moe7
Glad to hear you made it ok - look forward to seeing yor posts again in the spring
I was just thinking about you a few days ago. I was wondering how you made out. Good to hear from you and I'm glad you made it ok.
I have a college buddy living up there. He is stationed in the Army, I guess there is a base near you. He e-mails me every week. Sounds like a hostile environment right now. Maybe more hostile then Lambo Field in Greenbay, on the frozen tundra! HAHAHA
Take care and looking forward to reading your informative post's again!
Mroffshore
Congratulations on successfully negotiating the Alcan! That highway has a history of being an engine eater. It ate the 302 in my parents Torino wagon back in '74 on a trip out in December. Stuck at Muncho Lake for a week over the Christmas holiday while the replacement engine was freighted in.
Glad to hear that mostly all went well and that despite the problem, your getting taken care of well. Is it's Cal's, Stepp Bro's, or Nye that your dealing with? Look forward to your returning to the discussion soon.
Love my 350 Lariat! So far it's flawless !!!
Only from the rear of the vehicle, does it look a bit different. The tailgate - still with the factory-looking curves and locking tailgate feature (but minus the Ford logo and F-250 badge), is noticeably narrower than the stock tailgate. This is to accommodate the width of the "thicker" fenders. The inside of the pickup bed goes straight up. There is no indentations for the wheelwheels. The top edge of the bed and tailgate also has protective lip, again just like the normal factory pickup. Only this time, because of the width of the fender, it looks like 8" or 9" flat platform, rather than the narrow protective lip found on the stock pickup.
It also appeared to be very well constructed. The compartment doors are hinged via "struts", like those you find on a hatchback. The galvanized steel shelves are adjustable for position, and the compartment doors close with a quality feel. All-in-all, a very nice package!
I asked the salesman who the outfitter was, but he didn't know.
I know GM has been offering a "designer" utility body for some time, but this one takes that approach to a whole new level.
I've posted before that I thought this idea of a utility body - combined with a standard pickup-looking body would be a terrific idea. Now somebody has gone and done it.
Bob
Bob
F350 CC 4x4 PSD DRW 4.10
Some possibilities include:
auxilary transmission
shift kits and controllers
torque converters
pcm chips
other????
What problems are you having with the 11K trailer? Most I've towed was about 7K and the auto didn't have any problems in O/D.
http://www.royaltruckbody.com/FordSport002.html
If you follow the links, you can see the Chevy version, as well as all other types of truck bodies they offer. The Ford version is called the "Sport," and the Chevy version is called the Apache."
Bob
Hope it's not true about Lariat availability! I ordered mine on Saturday - F250 Lariat CC 4WD PSD Auto 3.73 LS in Bright Amber/Light Prairie Tan. My dealer didn't say anything about delays (big surprise) but I'll call him to check.
I've been pondering this purchase for so long, I would hate to have it held up at this point. They told me to expect 8 weeks, and I've been pretty optimistic based on the latest delivery information posted here.
At any rate, I'll wait! Now begins the weeks of daydreaming and wishing the time away... Survival tips, anyone?
I'm not sure of the relation of 4th manual and 3rd auto, but in 3rd auto the rpms are around 2700 at highway speeds. This motor is more than capable of handling this load at a lower rpm, the tranny just won't go. Fuel economy drops considerably running at that rpm, even under load. My 6.5 chevy did better as far as holding 4th, but it wasn't stock.
stanford
I looked at the Banks TransCommand, ordered one just to see if it works. Also looked at B&M's equipment. Waiting on a call from them. Do you know anything on the valve body plates that they change in electronic transmissions? I use to do this in old hydromatics, but wondered how they worked with the new trannys. The biggest problem I have is that the transmission won't stay in OD. This was even evident with my old trailer, just not to the extent it is now. Like I said before, my 6.5 chevy would hold 11k in OD and accelerate. Banks also said their new '99 stuff would be out March 1st. Sounds impressive.
great. No runs, no hits & no errors. Sure is fun
driving the V-10, lots of power and it seems to be
getting stronger. Had a friend tell me a couple
days ago he had to take his SD PSD back to the shop. Seems his clutch petal was engaging all the
way at the floorboard. He asked the service dept
about this and was told it was natural. He said
to adjust it toward the top of the petal. Turns
out they had to run new lines since the problem
was caused by short lines that made the clutch
engage toward the floor and they had to install
longer lines and fixed the problem. I can't relate to this since I have the V-10 automatic.
Any PSD with manual tranny having this problem ?
Sad to hear about the delay on the Lariat, might
be the reason I waited 16 weeks. Well worth it.
Y'all have a good evening.
The Brown Fish Man.
We just got back from a 1000 mi trip (330 mi to 1300 mi) from southern to northern CA to visit our daughter (I let her ride in the SD, but didn't let her drive). The truck performed beautifully. Since this was part of the break-in period, I varied the speed a lot, which was kind of fun when I felt the power of the v10. On the way back, we found that we could accelerate in 5th gear going up the Grapevine (a famous long steep grade). Could never do that in any of my other vehicles.
Jim
I sort of wish Ford offered a 3.55 axle ratio to improve fuel mileage.
For 90% of most peoples driving 2nd is their "1" gear.
My own experience, the only times I use 1st is for dragging a loaded 6 horse trailer out of elk camp. Or when you are feeding by yourself and put it in 1st and let it crawl while you pull bales off the back.
Most of the time, even when pulling just two horses 2nd starts it fine without abusing the clutch.
Cowpokes
According to the Ford sales person, Ford has had serious complaints from 5th wheel owners because the bed of the truck is too high - as much as 6 inches higher than previous models.
Ford (with a special kit) has agreed - under warranty - to lower the bed 3 and 3 quarter inches by removing the blocks and installing new shocks and brake lines. They claim that with this lowering kit, they successfully meet the requirements of all 5th wheels out there. My servicing dealer (Castle Rock, CO) has also agreed to give me the original blocks, shocks and brake lines in case I want to return the vehicle to it's original configuration. Does anyone out there have more enlightening news on this subject?
PS: The RV place that will service the 5th wheel also stated that the 5th wheel axles can be reversed to raise the 5th wheel to get the best "level" of the whole nine yards - truck and 5th wheel. Where are the days when things were simple??
the Ford F350 4x4 is 3 inches taller than a Dodge Ram 3500 4x4 (81 inches over 78 inches). The Ram is also an inch and a half narrower over the dually fenders - the Ford is a hair over 95, the Dodge is 93.7.
Let's end this once and for all. Can you make the following measurements on your 4x4 DRW (I'll make them too) and post the numbers:
Bed-rail height at the center of the wheelwell
opening
Bed-rail height at the end of the bed
Floor height at the end of the bed (not the end
of the tailgate)
That should give us the floor height at the center of the truck (hitch positions vary, but they're all based on the rear axle) and bed-rail height at the rear of the truck. These two measurements seem to be the ones most 5th-wheelers are concerned with for fit.
Personally, I've never 5th-wheeled (although I'm thinking about it) and the newer Featherlite goosenecks I'm looking at have been made to accomodate these monsters at stock height.
Ford claims that both frames are made out of similar strength material, does the bend in the frame really weaken it 1300 pounds?
[actually, since the bed weight is included in the pickup's curb weight (7500) vs the chassiscab curb weight (7100) it's about a 1700# difference]
[The spring packs appear to be the same, I've seen both chassiscab and pickup with either the 5leaf base spring or the larger pack if you choose the "HD suspension"]
[I did get a moment to look at a pickup and chassis cab side by side (but the pickup left the dealer's lot before I could go back in daylight).
They both looked identical below the frame. (Front end frame looked the same too).
I only used my fingers to measure the frame, but they were real close in size, but different in shape.]
This may sound like a silly question to most, but I took the time to weigh all the things that will go into / onto the new truck when it gets here (tools, tool boxes, winch, cap, roof rack, etc), and I'll only have a 500# margin for "additional cargo" [in what's left of the bed and on the roof rack and trailer tongue weight.]
(Ford's numbers all assume a passenger in every seat and that's the way I want to figure it, cause this is also the family car.)
our own boats- two vehs and two boats. One of the
vehs had a installed CB so we thought it good to
pick up a hand held CB so we could talk during the
long trip. The installed CB had the usual range
of about 5 miles and the hand held unit was just
about line of sight up to 3/4 mile. If we became
separated by terrain or more than 3/4 mile the
signal was lost. The hand held unit just did not
work well at all. A good set of walkie talkies
probably would do better. The one we use was the
Cobra that cost about $100.00.
I will probably install a CB in my truck too, I'm
still trying to figure a place for the antenna
that does not distract from the looks of the truck. Happy Trucking.....The Brown Fish Man
They've just released a supercharger for the Ford V10. Cost is around $4500, 40-60% increase in hp. Thought it might be of interest. Personally, I'm tempted..........however, while my heart says yes, my head says no!
Auto Transmission .... Contacted Level 10 Transmissions in NJ. They are sending me a shift kit for the E40D that had a Ford part # for export. Good-bye slush box. Also ordered a chip for the computer to control shift points and tune the motor a bit. Will keep you posted on results.
unit and it has the K40 mount and K40 Magnetic
Base. The unit is a Cobra 29 WX ST which has been
"tweeked" by the place of purchase to 19 watts.
I'm told this will add some distance but increase
the clarity two-fold. This unit also has the
weather channel and a few more perks. I have never had anything "tweeked" before, always went
standard out of the box, any comments here ? Also
am thinking of installing the CB and speaker in a
portable box so I can use when needed and remove
or place in the back seat when not needed, this
would solve the problem of where to install the
CB under the dash. Has anyone installe a CB unit
under the dash and if so where ?
Mac24: I sent you a E-mail....Good luck.
Took the "Brute" and the 20' Norriscraft Bassboat
w/tandem trailor fishing wednesday and was so
impressed with the power of the V-10 power. Only
have to use the first 1/2 inch of the gas petal.
That SD is one nice ride.
Kudos & Accolades to all
(Ain't that impressive Mr. Offshord )????
The Brown Fish Man
which I think is quite normal during the break in
period. Even though the pops and pings continue
for several minutes after shutoff I figure it is
just the metal becoming "tempered" or maybe Ford
has used a better metal that has a faster exchange
rate of heat and thus keeping the engine/exhaust
cooler while driving. Just my .02 worth here.
The Brown Fish Man