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Comments
I have an 01 GT with 14K miles and no peeling trim problem. I know a few people have this though. Let us know how it turns out.
Slight clanging in trunk can be the spare tire itself. The plastic nut that holds it can loosen up. Also sticking some foam under the tire might help.
My dealership has also been very good with the minor issues. They never second guess me, They just fix it.
I made an appointment with the dealership for next Thursday. In addition to fixing the peeling trim and also looking at my rotors (they might need to be turned already, as I'm getting some vibrations when braking at highway speeds -- nothing bad like the Grand Am I used to have, though), I'm also going to have them look at the accelerator again. They said they would try to replace the cable this time, and I also wonder if something else might be vibrating in the car through the cable that shouldn't be. Again, this springy, tensiony feeling through the gas pedal only occurs when the engine is running around or higher than 2500 rpm... and you don't really notice it until you are going 70 or higher (but if i slow down to 68 mph, it's back to normal). Kind of weird, eh? I hope that replacing the cable works.
I'll probably take the spare tire out of the trunk to see what happens. If I still hear the slight clang over certain bumps, I'm going to see if there's anything in the rear seats that might be loose.
One other minor issue has been solved -- my brakes aren't thoomping at lower speeds anymore. Perhaps this is weather related. I'll let you know the next time it gets really cold
5port, when you had your stiff pedal fixed, how did they reposition it? Was there some engine component that was vibrating against the cable? It just seems weird that I would feel it right at 70-75 but then going 68 or 69 (or less), the tingly feeling through the accelerator goes away. (In warmer weather, the strange feeling isn't really bad at all.)
Maybe I should contact a Hyundai dealership in Michigan about this. Since the speed limit on the highways here is 70, and some people drive 75 because of that, then I'm sure more people have noticed this issue. So, the dealerships up there might have more of an idea of what's going on. (I live in Columbus, Ohio, and our speed limit is 65 -- and the techs I talked to here won't drive over 70 to replicate the problem... but then they admit to driving 85 in their own cars... so go figure.)
Also, are you guys experiencing wind-noise? Elantra is better in this respect compared to several other cars, but it would be great if I can get this one fixed. Dealer tried readjusting left mirror and finally gave up on the wind-noise. They said it was normal with other cars in the same class.
Any suggestions?
Can you describe the noises in greater detail? That will give us a better idea of what's happening here.
I've not noticed the accelerator problem. I live in Michigan and drive at every speed, all the way up to 100 when I am in the mood.
Isn't severe usage typically police, taxi and cars that are only used in the city, on short hops? He tried to tell me that Michigan is considered "severe" usage due to temp change and other factors. I really think this is hogwash. My '87 Lynx GS rarely left Michigan and survived 227K miles on a normal maintenance schedule (with more frequent oil changes only).
I was put off from the beginning because I asked for a simple estimate on specific service and was told they should "tailor" the service to my car and was generally spoken to in a way that suggested I've never owned or maintained a car. GRRRR. Any opinions out there?
My dealer replaced the mirror - no noise now!
-------------------------------------------------
Nothing was vibrating against the cable. The service manager said the cable was binding because it was secured (by clamps) the wrong way. They loosened the cable clamps, relieved the tension in the cable by repositioning it and tightened the clamps. Now its fine (no binding). I really think you are overanalyzing the problem and its time to take it to the dealer and let them have a go at it.
As for the Engine noise, I never revved above 4rpm. I constantly switch between premium and regular gas types. Do you think varying gas grades has anything to do with it. My friend was suggesting that could be the reason and that I should just stick to one (something about Engine knocks).
This is an issue I've told them about before, but they didn't know much about it. If they can't figure it out this time, then I'll take it to another dealership.
The first time they looked at it, they lubed it up a little. The second time, I think they just "looked" at it again. This time, I'm going to call the service manager and tell him what you told me (which is more detailed than what we had emailed each other about before).
The funny thing is, the little Daewoo Lanos they gave me as a loaner is shakier than heck on the highway, but the gas pedal is oh-so-smooth. However, I'll take my Elantra over that little car anyday.
They are also going to fix the vinyl trim on the doors that's coming apart on each side as well, and then look at my brake rotors (which might be warping, or maybe just need a quick turning).
I'll let everyone know how this turns out.
Very good.
>The first time they looked at it, they lubed it >up a little. The second time, I think they >just "looked" at it again. This time, I'm going >to call the service manager and tell him what >you told me (which is more detailed than what we >had emailed each other about before).
Thats about the same order of events that I had only the second visit they repositioned the cable.
>The funny thing is, the little Daewoo Lanos they >gave me as a loaner is shakier than heck on the >highway, but the gas pedal is oh-so-smooth. >However, I'll take my Elantra over that little >car anyday.
I think the Lanos hatchback is cute though a little narrow. I'll take my Elantra GT anyday.
>They are also going to fix the vinyl trim on the >doors that's coming apart on each side as well, >and then look at my brake rotors (which might be >warping, or maybe just need a quick turning).
Yeah my vinyl trim is starting to come off also. BTW I hear the TSB on the trim is to remove the vinyl and paint that area black. Havent had a problem with the rotors.
>>I'll let everyone know how this turns out.
Good luck with everything and let us know what happens.
My rotors were also "lightly" turned, and I think they were able to fix the stiff accelerator pedal. I say that I thought they fixed it because I didn't have a chance to get on the highway -- instead, I noticed when braking the first few times that there was a "tick tick tick" noise. I took the car back, and they said that they probably forgot to put one of the brake pads on all the way. So, I'm driving around the little Daewoo again until they get a chance to look at the brakes in the morning.
You win some, you lose some
http://www.hmaservice.com/webtech/iindex.asp?id=394888628 (This was in another posting in the regular Elantra group.)
I hope that helps you out.
My father owns a 2000 Hyundai Elantra GLS. Today he bring his car to the delarship(since it is saturday, the hyundai service department close today. He brought his car to the delarship that selling another manufactorer's cars but take care car service for Hyundai themselves...both under a same name) for 45,000 mile service. He pull his car in at 9.08 am(shown in the receipt), at around 9.30 am the service advisor paged my father that the "ignition wires"(I presumed they mean ignition coil) was burn. So my father accepted to change it and inquire if the warranty is available. They said no.....ok that fine...it costs $47.33...still fine for my father. So at 10.25am, they said the car was ready. However, the bill was $226.41($83.76 for 45,000 mile service + 47.33 for ignition cable + 82.50 for labor) My father was quite mad when he saw the bill...and argued for the labor fee.
Finally he did pay for that because we needed the car.
Now I am wondering if I can get some refund due to the warranty? I looked at the warranty booklet few times and didn't find anywhere that say ignition wire/coil is not covered under warranty. Anyone can give me some advices with this issue? Really appericated~
PS. few minutes ago I posted this message in finance, warranty and insurance board...but I think it might be better to post here. So I moved~
DP5569^^
I feel changing the trans fluid and filter is a snap and plan on doing so. Someone must have done this already themselves... any tips?
I realize the trans filter will most likely have to be bought from the dealer but the fluid should be standard off the shelf stuff and not have to be bought there.
anyone have any insight to share??????
thanks
Manual says it requires 8.2 Qts
I was wrong in saying any off the shelf would do. IN order to not risk warranty protection, you MUST use hyundai brand.
I guess that when the dealership was looking at my sticky gas pedal, they must have fixed something (even though they said they didn't find anything wrong with the accelerator cable et al). It doesn't feel all tense and grainy on the highway like it did before.
The replacement vinyl trim for the front windows (well, it's paint, actually) looks pretty good. We'll see how well it looks a few years down the road, but I guess this is better than having the old vinyl stuff pit and peel off.
Though they wont seem to admit it, service probably loosened the throttle cable. That in itself would cause any tension to relieve itself. Glad to see the tense and grainy feeling (good way to desribe it) is gone.
I havent had my door trim done yet. Right now its bunching up in one corner on each door. We'll see how bad it gets.
I think they might be right about this, as the car did feel a little bit better in braking this morning than it did last night when driving it home.
As for the door trim, I think it's only bunching up in one area, and nowhere else. It's too bad they just can't pull off the small part that's going bad and then replace that area. However, the pull-it-all-off-and-repaint solution does look pretty good considering that what was there before was rather unsightly.
Jim
The only day to day complaint I have is the car sometimes feels a bit floaty or skittish at high speeds (75+). I've mainly figured it for crosswind effects, as I-195 is a fairly exposed highway, and the sound insulation of the GT keeps the noise down (and my stereo is usually up).
Anyway, last night I stopped for gas, and on pulling out noticed the check engine light was on. It may have been on prior to the fueling, but I don't think so. Finished my errands, went home, called my dealer's service department.
Service department guy said it was likely the gas cap not being on properly, to unscrew it and reseat it. He claimed 8 of 10 engine lights they get are cause by this issue, one way it happens is the cap tether gets under the edge of the cap and it doesn't seal right, and the system senses the leak since it's a pressurized system.
He said to reseat the cap and drive normally unless the car sounds or runs strange (it hasn't and isn't) and it would take 8-10 cold starts/a few days for the sensor to effectively reset itself. He also said that replacing the fuel cap if it was needed was not warranty repair.
The question is this: Was he telling me the truth? And if he is full of brown squish, on how many points is he BSing me?
Thanks,
KF
He is not lying to you, a loose gas cap on a Hyundai, or any OBDII system, will trigger a check engine light. One thing where he is wrong, if the gas cap is bad, it is a warranty item under emissions systems. But if the cap wasn't properly sealed after fueling, remove it, make sure it goes on completely (three clicks will confirm) and the problem will go away if thats what it was. Good luck,
Jim
The floaty feeling in high wind gusts was one of my complaints on my 2001 GT. Some people feel it and others dont notice it. I replaced my rear sway bar with a 2003 Tiburon rear sway bar and it made a big diff in body lean in turns (less) and the car is much more stable in crosswinds. I didnt expect the thicker bar to stabilize the GT in winds but it was a nice surprise. For $75 (bar and bushings) it was worth it.
Thanks.
Regarding swapping sway bars, probably beyond me, the only mod I've done is changing to the Tiburon radio antenna. Not a critical issue anyway.
KF
Has anyone else here ever experience this noise with their Elantra? Mine never did this at all until after I got it back when the dealership turned my front rotors. Sure, I had some other squeak noises in cold weather and a few oomph noises in damp weather, but this noise doesn't sound healthy at all.
I hope they can fix it this time. If not, and they fail the third time, I'll unfortunately have to bring up the Ohio lemon law... (I suppose you can argue that this is a safety-related problem, which means they only get one chance to fix it under the Ohio lemon law, but I don't want things to get messy just quite yet. I like my car, but I would like to have a safe car too!)
First thoughts: The GT is very smooth under acceleration, but lacks the pull I have become used to on my 318 (138hp I4 engine). Second gear in the manual seems a bit tall, as the RPMs drop a little too much when shifting at 4k from 1st into second. Not enough torque in low RPM range to get the car "moving" and until I get past 1200 miles, I ain't about to start redlining it. BMW engineered a dual-mass clutch plate for the 318s, to help give the sporty grab they wanted out of that smaller engine. That could be a critical difference in the tranny-feel. All in all, replacing a dual-mass clutch plate costs 5-8 times more than a standard plate, so I am not complaining too loudly. (BMW single plate was $170 IIRC, dual-mass plate for 318 was $700) My GT is a much more quiet under all driving conditions over my BMW. The major reason I see is the age of the BMW, at 8 years old, it has developed a few rattles and doesn't have the same sound dampening that even the cheapest of the newer cars possess. (Still more quiet that a Neon though!)
This car has checked out very high on my fit and finish evaluation. No major squeaks or rattles, the AC blows ice-cold and quiet, the car doesn't shimmy or shake when I am on the highway, and so far, I have not noticed any unusual wind noises.
I like this car every bit as well as the '96 Infiniti G20 I once owned (also a 5-speed). MSRP was $24,595 on my G20 back in 96 and it had cloth, a similar quality-level stereo, no fog lights, no sunroof (that I can recall), and an anemic 140hp engine that wasn't any more aggressive than the GT.
I find this car to be much more endearing than my previous Honda Civic HX, with one exception. I passed on the auto (something I would have liked to have) because during my test drives, I felt the auto on the Elantra isn't up too par - too much hunting and pecking for gears, and it robs a few too many ponies from the engine. Compared to a VW auto, or even a Honda auto...the Hyundai autos leave much to be desired. (My roommate drives a '02 Sonata V6 auto, and I don't like her auto much either.) The HX, on the other hand, came with a CVT tranny that did the infamous "clunk" from stop to start most days but otherwise was amazingly smooth, and if you drove one for a day after living with an Elantra auto, you would be screaming for a CVT in the Elantras! Still, I find myself much more satisfied with the GT over the HX. Civics do not even compete on the same level with Hyundai in the "optional equipment included" department. Better stereo (replaced my Civic stereo within a week, plan to live with the GT stereo).
I would have liked to buy a more expensive car ("image" is something, not everything, but something) but with poor credit and a tight budget as I head back to school for my masters, I pulled the trigger on the Elantra. So far, I have been very happy with the car. I think if I hadn't come from such a nice car as my BMW, I would be even more excited about the GT. The GT rides new-car nice, but the BMW had a few other things going for it...a stronger pulling trannie, better shift-feel, better driving dynamic with the RWD, and a better driving position (still getting used to my new captain's chair).
I have read almost every post on this thread now, and will let you know if/as issues develop, but I am very happy with my purchase so far. I can't think of another car in the market that gives you so much for so little. FTR - I payed $12,660 out the door for my GT-hatch 5-speed with sunroof. Love that! (Payed only 1k less for my then 5-year old BMW with 50k miles on it!)
I will keep an eye on the paint. I wish all you auto-shifters out there some luck. I would have liked an auto, but the differences between the 5-speed and the auto actually pointed me to the 5-speed.
To potential new buyers, get the manual!
If you want to drive a good auto, try the CVT Hondas (should be standard auto tranny in the sub-150 hp cars) or my personal favorite, the Volvo S40 (tough to modulate out of the box, but very smooth shifting, and no "hunt and pecking" during my three past test drives (all three on different cars, all three had very smooth autos).
'00 - '01 VW Passat Wagon (wanted utility and reliability - VW isn't ringing any bells for good reliability, but CR reports that the Passat fairs better than the Jettas and Golfs, could it be because the Passat is still manufactured in Germany?)
'00 Saab 9-3 - have always loved the Saab's mix of great looks, speedy performance, and utilitarian hatch design. A 2000 Saab should be in the market at around $17.5k and up, but hard to find, and in the end reliability worries prevented me from going too far with this one.
'03 Subaru WRX Wagon - awesome car, notchy manual that drives very smooth when you baby-shift it, but can be hard to modulate under hard driving. In the end, just too much money.
'03 Impreza TS Wagon - only a few grand less than the WRX (with current incentives and TMV prices) but not enough of a car to overcome a $5-6k difference over the Elantra. AWD and 165 hp would have been nice, and the auto is decent. But the sticker price just kept me from being able to do it.
'03 Mini Cooper - love the looks, the low MSRP on the standard Cooper, and the available CVT tranny. But early reliability has been horrible, 110 hp in a relatively heavy car (3200lbs), and high dealer mark-ups prevented this car from ever becoming "the" choice. In the end, it just didn't have the practical space I wanted and I was concerned about getting a car that couldn't be serviced outside of the dealer network.
'03 Mazda 6i - very nice car, but price again ruled it out. With a setup anywhere close to the GT, it would run $22k on the sticker, and wasn't that much better than the Elantra...but was a little better in almost every measure (acceleration, interior style, exterior style, mileage, resale, possible reliability). Still, just had no reason to step up to this level of car.
'03 Volvo S40. Deep discounts put this mid-20k car down to $20k even. As stated, love the engine and tranny (auto), like the styling, and liked the Volvo safety factor, but reliability issues are far more concerning in the 40-series (brake pads that last 10k miles are normal) and I worried about longevity. Resale on the 40 promises to be no better than the Elantra, and starts at much more money, so every year, you lose more of your original investment.
Was also tempted to hold my buying decision until '05 and look at the upcoming Ford Mustang (love the restyle) and the BMW 1-series. But, I decided that I need reliable transportation now, for school, and can do what I like in just three short years when I am done and fully employed again.
Sorry for the long posts. It is my nature.
BMW uses a 138 hp 1.8L engine attached to a 5-speed manual with a dual-mass flywheel (I was just corrected by my mechanic).
Elantra offers a 135hp engine attached to a 5-speed manual with a single-mass flywheel, as are 99% of consumer cars.
Interior space would be similar comparing the Elantra to the 318 Sedans.
But, we also have some huge differences: RWD vs FWD; $30k versus $15k.
Don't get me wrong, I love German cars, but it is worth noting just how far the entire industry has come in a short 10 years. In its day, the 138hp 318 of the world was a pretty good car, lively and well-geared (much better than the Elantra, sorry to say) and potentially very luxurious. But I think the Elantra gives you all the same bells and whistles and about 90% of the performance.
If new, I think the 318 would be a bit more formidable, but I think I would be inclined to buy a new Elantra over a used 318 at this point. Which is exactly what I am doing.
Another worthwhile comparison would have been the Infiniti G20, but the whole market knew that the G20 was over-priced and under-powered for its mission statement, and the car is gone, long live the G35, a far more exciting replacement.
I am saying that when I slide into those leather seats and drive away in my comfy and quiet car, I do find myself thinking that this car was very under-priced...or that other car companies should control their costs the way Hyundai is able to.
Would I buy the Elantra at $18k? Probably not, but I would put it against any car up to that price range. I think it trounces almost any American car under $20k.
Engines - now that most owners and avid car readers are aware of Hyndai's misrepresentation of their hp on both the I4 and the V6 engines that are used for the Tibouron, Sonata and Elantra, I think it is worth looking around at the rest of automobildom and say that Hyundai has some catching up to do. Honda has never been a great company for giving consumers gobs of hp, and it is unforgivable that the Civic engines still have not seen an increase in power over the last 12 years (105, 115, 127) - but they have become more efficient.
In current engine technology, a 135 hp four should be 30-40 mpg and never even close to 16-19 (as some have reported) unless something is very, very wrong. My BMW 138hp engine from 1995 can get 24-25 mpg each and every fill.
I see a standard engine design, that should be reliable, but also is fundamental and behind the likes of Honda's VTEC or anyone else's variable valve technologies.
The V6 at 181 hp was decent, when the real number was dropped to 170, it becomes a second class player in the game. Malibus and other American junk V6s are chunking out 150-170 hp, but most V6s are getting 200+ without superchargers, turbos, or anything beyond good racing technology applied.
I want to know why a company as deep as Hyundai (one of the world's largest "big machine" manufacturers) isn't making better engines. I also would like to know when we will see some of the lessons they learned in WRC coming into the market.
Honda and Nissan both make some amazingly powerful V6s that are still polite of mpg. The new Honda V6 is incredible - 240 hp and still rated around 30 mpg on the highway! Of course, that is a big part of the divide between a $19k Sonata V6 and a $23k Honda V6.
Transmissions - I knew after the first test drive that Hyundai isn't making a great auto tranny. It hunts for gears, it gives up way too much power (auto-trannies rob power as compared to a manual) and it makes a decent engine feel even less competitive.
Both in Elantras and in Sonatas (I am guessing both use a different automatic), the auto hesitates on power delivery, doesn't like to kick down gears, often kicking down two gears instead of one then jumping up a gear in under 2 seconds (the wha, WHHAAAA, Whaaaaa effect). In the Sonata V6, I will be coasting along in 5th at 45mph, a slow hill will come up, and I will press on the gas to climb the hill with a little authority, and instead of dropping to four and driving, there is a half-second pause (during which the pedal gets soft) and then it kicks down to third, sometimes second - instant engine whail! Then, just as the power starts to boil, without lifting from the gas, it bumps up to fourth, dropping the rpms, falling out of the "high" power zone. At this point, if you lift off the gas, it will shift up to 5th, if you stay on the gas, it will drop into 3rd again.
That is a recipe for hunting and pecking. Good autos don't do this. At least the Sonata has the option of the auto-manual.
Perhaps the trannies in the Tibouron are better, I don't know - never did test drive them. But the autos in both the Elantra and the Sonata are not great, decent, but not great.
The manual tranny in the Elantra is better, but also lacks a little in the "snick-snick" world of good manuals.
I thought I could live with them, but they are just too flabby and they drop most of the mid-range so low that it reminds me of watching movies in surround sound without a center channel - all the voices sound hushed.
Found a place that is blowing out MB Quarts at cheap prices, but I wanted to check on sizes. They said 6x9s for the back and 7" to fit in the front. I checked the back, couldn't get in and measure, but isn't a 6x9 oval? The speaker in the rear hatch is definately round by my eyes.
Anyone do a speaker upgrade? Anyone do a speaker upgrade and leave the OEM unit in place? Did you eventually have to drop the CD player as well?
I have always wanted a car that can sound clean without going deep into the aftermarket world, but I am getting prepared for the inevitable speaker-upgrade.
Anyone who has done after-market audio on a GT would be a welcome input/advice giver.
(btw, I used to sell home audio and while not a pure audiophile, I can hear quite a bit when I listen to systems...sadly, cheap systems drive me nuts.)
<http://www.gwebworks.com/elantra_gt/garage2.shtml>
My filter was $44 I think, and the dealer actually had a couple of them in stock in very dusty boxes. I didn't realize they were so large, but I think this is a good thing. Can't wait for cleaner air.
I notice that when making certain turns at lower speeds, there is a bit of a hissing snake noise. The car has done this before, but there was never any shaking or any strange pulls in the steering wheel.
If it's not a botched up rebalancing, I suppose it could be anything -- bent wheels, an engine mount, something related to power steering, or even something in the transmission acting up. I guess I'll give my dealership another chance to fix this, and then I'll head to another dealership to see what they can do.
(By the way, the Hyundai dealership I go to isn't very close to the highway, and I bet they didn't take it another road test after rebalancing the tires because of the traffic in the area. This other Hyundai dealership I'm going to probably go to is right next to the highway, so they can get my car up to highway speeds right away and get a better idea of what's happening.)
Glad I could help. I'm thinking of putting this filter in myself. Some sources can get it for $33. I'll see what my dealer wants.
jpryba:
The EGT is very sensitive to wheel balance. If it is just slightly off you will feel it. I think you are on the right track. Sometimes you must break the tire bead and rotate the tire on the rim to get a better balance. The cheapy and quick places wont bother to do this. Some tires have a dot on them to tell you where to place the valve. A good place will pay attention to all this. Good luck.
Backy: I dont have this hiss problem with my 2001 EGT but it sounds like the power steering system is forcing fluid thru a valve when you are in tight turns. Not sure if anything can be done about it. Like a lot of problems it depends on how loudly you complain at the dealer