Hyundai Elantra Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • tootoofunnytootoofunny Member Posts: 2
    I have a '03 GLS with the 5-speed..Whats up with the engine RPM'S going UP (a little) when I first depress the clutch pedal?
  • tootoofunnytootoofunny Member Posts: 2
    Anybody have recommendations/complaints on any of the Hyundai Service Departments on the Sacramento Area? Thanks
  • southpawbostonsouthpawboston Member Posts: 29
    the engine RPMS going up may be a throttle position sensor (TPS) problem. this is a known problem on the '01-'03 model year elantras. there was a technical service bulletin issued for this problem. it should be under warranty.
  • servo_fanservo_fan Member Posts: 15
    I have taken my '02 GT to Senator Hyundai. They seem to be competent, if a little slow. I've only had it in for clock replacement at 2 months old and the recent brake line recall. The 15k service was not performed at a Hyundai dealer. I don't know if I'm going to use a dealer for the 30k either.
  • jimijamesjimijames Member Posts: 41
    Yeah, good luck getting your dealer to fix this problem. My car will not start to drop rpm (and sometimes it slightly increases) for a good 2-4 sec after I clutch- one of only 2 problems that are bugging me with this car. I had my dealer look at mine (2003 Elantra GT) at the 3000mi oil change, and as I expected they tried to tell me it's perfectly normal... as a matter of fact they claimed it was a feature! "Hyundai shift assist" is the load of poop they tried to shovel off on me. What the dealer is really saying is come back after 100,000 miles when we can charge *you* $4000 to replace all sorts of sensors, harnesses, and computers.

    I've read elsewhere that this is related to emissions... so that sudden throttle closures don't lead to dumping unburnt fuel out the tail pipe. All manual tranny cars have to deal with it... some appear to deal with it better than others. Like my 2001 626, 5 spd, for example... never had this problem, ever. I think I will tell the dealer about TSB 01-36-025 (engine rpm drops too slowly) next time. First step in the TSB is to check the TPS. Of course they will tell me that is for the 2001 model year, but it's worth a shot. Sorry for the rant, but lazy service depts really tick me off.
  • backybacky Member Posts: 18,949
    I own a '01 GLS 5-speed and just drove a '04 5-speed; neither has this problem. Well, that's not exactly correct. My '01 had the problem for a couple of weeks soon after I got it. The dealer told me (back in November '00) that a software fix was coming. But then the problem just disappeared and has not returned. But at least the dealer didn't try to tell me it was "a feature."
  • southpawbostonsouthpawboston Member Posts: 29
    jimijames--

    thanks for the info. i find this interesting, that there is a re-programming fix for the TPS. when i brought my '02 GT in for this problem, they told me the TPS was faulty and replaced it. however, the problem remained. i'll bring it back and see what they say about the TSB fix you mentioned. all also look it up on hmaservice.com and read it myself.
  • grr02grr02 Member Posts: 6
    Hello fellow Hyundai Owners I have a 01 Elantra GT. I have recently have taken this little guy to the local dealership for the past 3 months for problems. 1. I had a problem with the heat shield from the manifold that cause a really loud rattling noise when accelerating then I had to take it back since the rattling started again. They replaced the catalytic converted since the heat shield wasn't welded right. Good thing for the warranty they have replaced the part and have fixed the problem. Well my major problem now is that it has been raining really bad here in northern Cali and one day my GT was parked outside. Well when I got back from shopping my GT was flooded with water about a inch high inside! this parking lot was flat LAND! to make the long story short it has damaged my electrical! the TCS, ABS, Brake etc.. display plus my alarm went crazy. When I took the car to the dealership they told me that Hyundai will not pay for the electrical inspection and replacement. I just wanted to know is anyone of you encountered this problem? I have told the Hyundai advisor that if the water came from the bottom it would not affect my electrical plus the lot was flat! there is no way that a flash flood would even happen in downtown San Fran!Checked all the seals, sunroof, trunk and the surrounding area for a possibility of flooding around where i was parked and found nothing that will cause the water to get inside the car.I did notice when i first got in the car that the water was mostly towards the front and a little on the back. the dash, seats, the headliner was not wet. I just want to know if water an inch high will cause my electrical system to go crazy? I think that the water came in from the grille by the wipers since i have complained to my local dealer about fog building up inside the car that causes major water build up. I need your help so I can fight for the replacement. Let me know. Thanks
  • crsher2002crsher2002 Member Posts: 21
    I own a '02 GT bought in 8/02 with 32K on it now - 95% hwy miles.

    Seems I have several of the problems - all of which started in the first 3k miles - recently posted and would appreciate any feedback on the following.

    I've been going back and forth with the dealership on these problem for at least 3 times now. My state lemon law is 4 times.....:

    1)Sunroof leaks along rear seal - dealer has replaced all of the hardware to no avail. It still seeps water after a hard rain or the carwash. They claim, from the Hyundai design area, that "the car is designed to have some seepage" - this is nothing but a bad excuse

    2)Front end shimmy - starts around 65mph and goes up to 75 or so. They have resurfaced the rotors and balanced the wheels twice. I have paid for an alignment - which the car did not hold and drifts to the right. Rotated the tires every 7k or so. The brakes DO NOT pulse and I told them this. Still has the shimmy

    3)Wind noise through sunroof

    4)RPM's up to 2000 to 2500 on start up. Happens intermittently - cold and warm start

    5)Front suspension - has a left side "rattle" over bumps at low speed - sounds like metal in metal rattling - they claim everything is spec.

    6)Door tape - had that replaced - so far so good but not confident

    7)Have the ABS brakes - they are making a metallic "creaking", but not grinding, noise. I've been driving for 20yrs now and have never heard this one. Not worn pads...rotors are smooth, no pits.

    Overall the car is good and I do like it. But the sunroof and shimmy problems should just not be there.
  • backybacky Member Posts: 18,949
    Have you tried taking these issues "up the chain" with someone at Hyundai other than your dealership, e.g. the regional customer service rep? If not, maybe it is time you do so. To say that a leaking sunroof is normal is ludicrous.

    There are some interesting patterns in the problems. For example, 1 and 3 may be related, as could 5 and 7.

    As for the shimmy, see #709 about the Hunter GSP9700 machine. Did the place that did the wheel balancing use that machine?

    Re RPMs, there is a TSB for that problem. I believe the fix involves a software update. Ask your dealer to check on it.
  • grr02grr02 Member Posts: 6
    Well my local dealership has just called me and they said that they had found the leak coming from the sunroof. It started from there and came down the sides and into the dash. POST #871 has the same problem huh? Well I don't have to fight it since Hyundai will cover the repairs. But looks like the sunroof isn't going to be the same. I have taken this car to the dealership regarding problems that I had with the sunroof rattling when driving and just learned to deal with it. Post #871 talked about rotors too, did I mention my GT had 33k when I had to change the rear brake pads and resurfaced. It was weird cause the back went out first before the fronts. Actually they said the front brakes were still thick mmmm? Well I will let you guys know what happens next with the leak from top.....
  • jimpimmsjimpimms Member Posts: 81
    "I had to change the rear brake pads and resurfaced. It was weird cause the back went out first before the fronts."

    My wife's '97 Tiburon had that problem. The dealer from whom we bought the car informed us, at the 15,000 mile service, that the rear pads were almost gone, but never looked for the cause. At the next oil change -- at a different dealer -- they discovered that the emergency brake cable was misadjusted, which caused the premature wear on the rear pads. What really pissed me off -- and lost the selling dealer two customers -- is that you and I know that the rear pads shouldn't wear-out before the fronts; why didn't that raise a flag in the service dept.?
  • maynard25maynard25 Member Posts: 2
    Has anyone else had problems with their power windows? The power windows in my 2001 Hyundai Elantra started working intermittently, and recently stopped working altogether. Not just one window either...all of them. Just wondering if anyone has had the same problem with their car, or if you can shed some light on what the problem could be. I'm thinking broken wire?
  • kagedudekagedude Member Posts: 407
    Hi. Does anyone know when the first oil change should be for 04 Elantra model? My mom bought hers last month and it already has 1K miles. She said the manual doesn't state to change it at that interval and they recommend to do it at 3000 miles. Thanks.
  • servo_fanservo_fan Member Posts: 15
    If memory serves...I think the interval is 7,500 miles, 5,000 for "heavy duty". There is no other recommendation for 1st change. At least that is how it is with my '02 GT.
  • crsher2002crsher2002 Member Posts: 21
    There are supposed to be 4 drain channels inside the sunroof track area. Obviously they didn't do the job and the sunroof leak must be severe. My dealership tried to tell me that the TechLine and the design area claim that the sunroof is designed to allow for seepage and that is why, in part, the drains are there.

    There is also, I believe, a TSB on front door pillar leakage and corrosion which has been shorting out windows and the radio
  • backybacky Member Posts: 18,949
    The "severe" service interval for my '01 GLS is 3750 miles; did Hyundai up the interval to 5000 for '04?
  • southpawbostonsouthpawboston Member Posts: 29
    maynard--

    this is a classic symptom of a corroded door wiring harness. this problem afflicts 01-03 elantras that are driven in snowy climates. a leak in the A-pillar allows salt water to corrode wires on the 22-pin door wiring connector. there is a technical bulletin (TSB# 01-90-004) on this item:

    http://www.hmaservice.com/webtech/iindex.asp?id=394886777#_394886- - 777%00

    your dealer will be familiar with it and will fix it under warranty. the fact that you said several windows are being affected is a dead giveaway for this problem...
  • jimbeaumijimbeaumi Member Posts: 620
    This morning after an overnight temp of perhaps ZERO degrees, my ignition key would not turn in the lock for several minutes. Grrrrrr!! Finally it reluctantly let go and turned, allowing me to start the car. Has anyone had this trouble? This is my GLS' third winter and this is the first time I've encountered this. Perhaps a tumbler or two decided to just give me hell this morning. Not fun.
  • backybacky Member Posts: 18,949
    Well that sucks! It's been below zero lately in Minnesnowta and no problems with keys turning or other starting problems. Any chance something (like Coke or something else sticky) got into the lock chamber?
  • 5port5port Member Posts: 395
    I would hit the ignition cylinder with a lubricant (preferably silicon based). Sounds like you got water into the cylinder on a rainy day. Maybe the water was on the key at insertion.
  • firemanjackfiremanjack Member Posts: 123
    I posted on here a month or so back that my 02 GLS, 5M has had a fairly severe shimmy in the wheel since I got it..
    The dealer(Healey Hyundai, Beacon, N.Y.) went over the car scrupulously. They cut the front rotors, replaced the drive axles, swapped out the spindles and other front end parts with another car...all to no avail..I took it upon myself to buy American Racing rims and new Toyo Touring tires at 19,000 miles...Nothing worked.
    Now the biggie...I have noticed in the past little while a diminishment in the condition..Last night I was tooling down I-84 for about 20 miles at speeds varying twixt 60 and 73 or so MPH...No more shimmy..Like a goddam miracle. If that ain't the strangest thing I have encountered in automobiledom, and I have driven millions of miles in many different vehicles! For 26,000 miles I had a distinct shimmy from 60 to 75 MPH in the steering wheel and it has gone away..Poof.. Now..what do I tell the Hyundai people, if and when they offer me a new car? Hehe..How honest am I? Just glad that problem is no longer there...I love this car.
    No other problems with it, other than that pesky black plastic crap between the doors, that is still wrinkled even after being replaced once.
    And I have that rear brake noise that seems to be dust accumulation, which I am having addressed next week, when I get my oil changed..
    Like I said...I love this car...Jack
  • 4tecman4tecman Member Posts: 2
    This is the second time in 20,000 miles my brakes are out of round, I've had them resurfaced at my dealer once before. This didn't solve the probelm, it went away for one day and came back. I know I'm not a heavy brake user and I usually use the 5spd to slow down. My dealer is telling me they won't do it under warranty. Could this be a defect in the rotor, or the whole axle? How would they determine that the material makeup of the rotor is defective?
  • jinx1224jinx1224 Member Posts: 8
    Got back from the dealer earlier and wanted to ask a question. I took my car(2001 GT, 36000 mi.) in to have the emergency brake serviced on 1/8 because it was stuck a third on when I was going to work on 1/7. I drove about 5 minutes and it loosened up. Went to the dealer on 1/8 and they couldn't reproduce the problem. It has been around 20 degrees here and I was told that it had frozen up. As a force of habit I set the brake again and on the morning of 1/9 it was stuck again. I drove again for about 5 minutes and it loosened up. However on my way home I heard a metallic noise from the rear which unfortunately was because I had worn my brake pads to nothingness. I had to get new rear brakes and my rotors re surfaced and was told never to set my e brake when it gets this cold. I have never heard this before. Is this a common problem?
  • jinx1224jinx1224 Member Posts: 8
    I had the same problem around 18,000 miles and my dealer diagnosed it as warped rotors which they fixed under warranty.
  • 4tecman4tecman Member Posts: 2
    Jinx, I don't think that should happen. I'm in jersey it's been below 15 here the past 2-3 days and I haven't had a problem with my emerg. brake (2002 5M Elantra). As far as my rotors go, they did the resurfacing under warranty the first time, but refused to do the same again. They gave me some crap about the 1yr, 12,000mi warranty on the rotors from date of purchase. I spoke to Hyundai Corp, they told me that's nonsense, it's 5yr 60,000mi. I'm getting the run around here, but I will get to the bottom of this.
  • firemanjackfiremanjack Member Posts: 123
    Mr. Nomoshimmy here. At about 13-14 months and 15,000 miles I was told that the wheel shimmy was coming from my warped rotors and they would not be covered under warranty..I went to another dealer who told me the same thing..I had them cut, paid 145 bucks for the job, and the shimmy was exactly the same as before..The dealer said rotor cutting was not covered beyond a year by Hyundai. I felt screwed, especially after the shimmy remained.But my pedal was pulse free again..hehe. Re the emergency brake sticking due to cold weather...In a word..[non-permissible content removed]!
    It's been below zero several nights in a row of late here in upstate New York..I set my brake every time I park...No problem. My guess is there was something causing the brake cables to stick other than freezing. Hope they fixed it under warranty bro. Anyhow...cool running .. Jack
  • tmanttmant Member Posts: 70
    My manual states 3000 miles for the severe schedule and not half (as I would have imagined) of the 7500 miles for the normal oil change. There is no special break-in oil being used so you could change it earlier if it makes you feel better.

    The ignition isn't being locked because of the steering wheel is it? Try turning the wheel one way or the other when turning the ignition. Sometimes it is just the obvious!
  • jjbondjjbond Member Posts: 9
    Last week my 03 GLS wouldn't start the first couple of times. It's been cold here in Jersey, but this wasn't an extrememly cold day. And it wasn't that much of a cold start - I parked at the grocery store for about an hour, and when I came back, it wouldn't turn over for the first few attempts.

    It's been fine since then. I am thinking of taking it in for an oil change (almost to 4000 miles) just for peace of mind, but how do I explain this problem? And does this sound familiar at all?
  • jimbeaumijimbeaumi Member Posts: 620
    Thanks for all of the responses. No, the wheel wasn't turned, the key was never wet and no beverages were spilled. And no, it hasn't repeated itself (thank goodness). Just a sticking tumbler I suppose.
  • crsher2002crsher2002 Member Posts: 21
    Ok guys, just back from the dealer on 1/12 to address the continued leak from back of sunroof and the front end shimmy from 65mhp to about 75mph along with poor alignment (hard drift to right with steering wheel cocked to the left to hold it off):
    1) they did a rotation, balance and 4wheel alignment and GUESS WHAT - it shimmys worse than before and the pull to the right is just as strong - they didn't even do the road test!!

    2)the sunroof still leaks - they said it did not. I asked them how they tested it - they simply put a hose on it and ran the water across it - now that is a real world test if there ever was!

    3)high revs when shifting - I pointed out the TSB for the TPS. They claim it is due to the very cold weather we've been having here in CT. Said the sensor is fine. We'll see.

    So, this is the 4th time around for the sunroof/shimmy. I called Hyundai cust assistance to open a poor service claim and then called the service manager at the dealership. He asked if I could bring the car in Monday - a full week out! The next call was to the dealerhip GM and got him involved. I told him they need to resolve this now or put me in a new car - he kind of chuckled as he took my info.

    So, we'll see what happens. The next step is Lemon Law but I'm open to your suggestions. I really like the car but this is too much. Thanks to all your posts I have some back up ammo for supporting my case if I do go to arbitration.

    Any comments please?!
  • southpawbostonsouthpawboston Member Posts: 29
    crsher2002,

    where in CT did you buy your elantra? a poor, incompetent service dept. can make an otherwise very satisfying ownership experience horrible! you may consider bringing it to lia hyundai, in enfield, near springfield, MA. i have been very happy with them for parts and for service. i'm even considering making them my default service dept, even though they're two hours away...and that's even considering that i have many choices for dealers closer to me than them.
  • crsher2002crsher2002 Member Posts: 21
    Southpawboston, I bought the car in Bridgeport from Key Hyundai, which also has a location in Milford, CT and in Manchester, CT. I'm near Stamford, and I know right where Lia is. It is a haul to get there, easily an hour and 15min, but I have thought of that. I am going to stick with Key for now, so that if this goes to arbitration,they will be the only service dept. that handled it.

    I'm meeting with the GM of service and the Hyundai rep tomorrow moring. I have ZERO confidence that they'll get this done. There is nothing more they can do for the sunroof since they have replaced EVERYTHING, and the shimmy is clearly a parts replacement fix at this time, since there is no more adjustments they can do - they have done 3 rotations, 2 balancing, and 2 alignments!! I'll bet the Hyundai alloys or tires are out of round or something alonng those lines.

    Thansk for the input.
  • jimpimmsjimpimms Member Posts: 81
    I live in Pittsfield, MA, a little over an hour from LIA Hyundai in Enfield. I've been taking my '01 GT there for service for the past year. Their Parts Manager, Jay Montigny, is a Global Moderator on a Hyundai Elantra enthusiasts' site, is VERY knowledgable about performance upgrades, and offers members of that website a 25% discount on genuine Hyundai parts. Jay owns a GLS that's been modified for autocross, and also uses the car to test various and sundry components. Their service department is top-notch. They will be, I'm sure, one of the first dealers to stock H.A.R.D. parts, Hyundai's upcoming aftermarket performance parts bin. You couldn't find a better dealership.
  • arukisharukish Member Posts: 7
    I have 2001 Hyundai Elantra with 51000 miles on it.Recently,I have noticed some sound while stoppiing.i.e.If I stop ,car is shaky and seems it will turned off by itself.It happen only when car stops.What it could be?
  • drewdaigledrewdaigle Member Posts: 3
    Well, my 2001 Elantra just passed 102,000 miles, and it's still going strong. I am preparing this weekend to do the first heavy maintenance I've had to do yet. After just over 100k of HARD miles (commuting, stop and go, plus I have a long, bumpy dirt driveway!) the clutch is finally starting to fade a little, so we're doing it this weekend. While we have it up, we're going to go ahead and replace the timing belt too, although when we checked it at 80K, it still looked to be in great shape. I have recently, however, encountered the first thing that I would actually consider a "defect" in the manufacture of an otherwise amazingly reliable car. A few months ago, I developed a pinhole in the rubber section of the lower power-steering return hose. (this is the small section of rubber hose, connecting two rigid lines near the oil pan.) I attributed it to living in a rural area, and because of it's position at the bottom of the engine, I figured a rock or some other road hazard was kicked up and punctured it. Yesterday, I once again saw the tell tale smoke, and heard the whining of a dry power-steering pump. I refilled the reservoir, and to my surprise, instead of the lower portion of the hose, there was a pinhole in the upper portion of the hose where it runs along the firewall! (of course it was perfectly placed so that there was a perfect little stream coating the back of my engine, it looked like someone watering the lawn...) The only conclusion that I can come to is that the hoses are made defective, so if you see smoke, and your power steering gets stiff, I would look there first! On the other hand, it's pretty amazing that after 102,000 miles, the biggest problem I've had is a pinhole in a hose!

    I'd buy another Hyundai in a hot second! There's no better recomendation I can give than that.

    Drew
    Norco, CA
  • jimbeaumijimbeaumi Member Posts: 620
    This is a great report. My GLS is also a 2001, and at the moment I am just under 40K miles. I am continuing to count on this car for 200K or more, and 100K for certain. Now we finally hear from someone with very good service beyond 100K miles. Congratulations!
  • kev02gtkev02gt Member Posts: 12
    I have a 2002 GT 5 speed with 29k miles. Last week a clicking sound was coming from what sounded like the front drivers side wheel that would only quiet down upon acceleration. I dropped the car off at the dealer-(Healey in Beacon, NY)on Friday morning. They called that afternoon saying they ordered a new transmission- no questions, no hassle, and no charge. They also performed the recall brake line work and the car was ready on Wednesday. I've only been to the dealer for the first oil change over a year ago and as I said they replaced the tranny quickly with no hassle.
  • 5port5port Member Posts: 395
    Manual trannys rarely fail, it does happen though and Suzuki is having its share also. Yours is the first Hyundai I've heard. Good to see they were so cooperative and that a part like a Transmission can be ordered so quick.
  • jimbeaumijimbeaumi Member Posts: 620
    I'm with you on the point about manual trannys. I'll repeat for the millionth time here that my '87 Lynx 5-speed lasted over 227K miles with original tranny AND clutch. I hope my '01 GLS can go that distance.
  • tiredofelantratiredofelantra Member Posts: 3
    I have a 2002 Elantra that is falling apart before my eyes. The horn has not worked in months. I have taken it to the dealership dozens of times. First off, the service can not be any worse and secondly, they really don't care about my safety. Do you know what it's like to drive without a horn??? I have tried calling customer service and they never returned my call. Also, my left light is not working. At first I thought it was the bulb and it's not. I replaced the bulb and it worked for about an hour and now it's done. My car pulls to the right, the steering wheel goes nuts after I hit 60mph. I don't know what to do. Any suggestions.
  • 5port5port Member Posts: 395
    1) The horn has not worked in months.

        If the horn is not working it is covered under warranty. If the dealer does not replace the horn after you have shown him it doesnt work you should look for another dealer.

    2) Left light is not working.

       Again covered under warranty. See comments on dealer above.

    3) Car pulls to the right.

       Alignment. If the dealer is not addressing these issues you should look for a reputable dealer in your area. Yes, this may mean you will have to drive farther to get there.
  • elavertuelavertu Member Posts: 13
    It's actually a good thing if your horn is dead. The horn is probably the most annoying thing ever used on a car.

    In two years I've never used mine except to check if it wasn't broken.

    People who use the horn more than once a month usually live in a place where people really don't know how to drive or they have an agressivity problem.

    But as some suggested, it is under warranty, if your dealer isn't fixing it, go to another dealer.
  • southpawbostonsouthpawboston Member Posts: 29
    elavertu,

    i take issue with your claim that "it's actually a good thing if your horn is dead". i do in fact "live in a place where people really don't know how to drive", and i have to use my horn to remind them. if a driver stopped at a stoplight forgets to watch the light as it turns green, and causes a traffic back-up at a busy intersection, that in my opinion is a safety issue for which the horn is an effective safety device. i use my horn regularly, and while i am quite aware (and in agreement with you) that the horn is an annoying device, especially in urban areas, it is a critical safety device. if it weren't, it wouldn't be a required device on automobiles. in the U.S., if the horn doesn't work during a state safety inspection, the car fails the inspection.
  • 5port5port Member Posts: 395
    I tend to agree with southpawboston. Here on L.I. it is usefull. So much so that I upgraded my Hyundai horn to a pair of Fiamm Hi/Lo horns. Now My Elantra sounds like a Buick.

       Maybe we should adopt the European city/country horn system. In my collector car (76 Maserati) when you pull the horn stalk you get a little beep. Push the stalk and you get two air horns.
  • jprybajpryba Member Posts: 201
    Does anyone have a creaking driver's seat in their Elantra? Mine makes a creaking noise if I make a right turn while the car is moving. It doesn't make the noise if I make a right turn after slowing down to a stop (and it doesn't do it on left turns at all). I've tried spraying everything under the seat with WD40, but that has helped only a little.

    Also, is the inside trim by the rear doors of your car popping out in the corners? I'm talking about the trim that's in the car itself that wraps around the inside where the doors meet the body of the car. As for the same trim up front, part of it started to lose its color a few months ago (you could start seeing the black rubber gasket behind where the fading started). So, the dealer replaced that trim -- but now it's starting to fade again. I noticed that the 2003 and up models have all black trim no matter what color the car is -- so maybe the dealer will be nice and replace all this trim with the updated all-black version. So, there's no fading to black because it's already black to begin with.

    These are minor issues, I know, but they do add up over time (check out my earlier posts). Still, I like my car, and I get compliments about it even after 18 months and over 17K miles.
  • 5port5port Member Posts: 395
    Yes, I do have the seat creak. It creaks once in a right hand turn as I use the clutch (5spd). Only started this winter. Seems to be temperature sensitive. Does it more in the cold than when its mild out. My car is an 01 GT with 19.6K miles.

       As far as the interior trim coming loose I havent noticed. I do have the loose b-pillar vinyl trim on both b-pillars.
  • mike91326mike91326 Member Posts: 251
    I had the same problem with my 2001 GLS. I sprayed some WD-40 in the seatbelt buckle and the creak went away.
  • jimbeaumijimbeaumi Member Posts: 620
    I've had minor trouble with my trim coming out of place, in the same area. A neighbor was working on his car ('93 Intrepid) and used adhesive on many of his door seals. He gave me the rest of the tube. It is a multipurpose "bonds everything" adhesive -- I will try to remember to get the name of it next time I am downstairs in storage. Or ask your auto parts people what they recommend for rubber-to-metal adhesion. Mine seems to be holding up pretty well. Apply the adhesive and push very firmly into place for as long as you can. You may end up pushing the moldings into place one or two more times over the course of a day before they stay in place on their own. Good luck!
  • gretsgrets Member Posts: 1
    I am seriously thinking about buying a 2004 Elantra GLS. I have done my research and am pretty sure this is what I will do. The problem? My sister in law has a 2001 and has several problems, that her dealer hasn't fixed after several trips to the shop. Now I'm getting nervous. Can anyone give me some info on Universal in Orlando? Seems they have a poor reputation. Also, do you have to take the car to the dealer you bought it from?
    Thanks for the help.
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