Hyundai Elantra Maintenance and Repair

backy

I don't understand your comment about the warranty. If you bought your car used, you still have the remainder of the 5 year/60k miles bumper to bumper warranty. But you do not have the powertrain warranty after 5 years/60k miles, as the original owner doesn.

altsuv

Oh, OK - I guess I'd better go back and re-read my warranty.

So do you have any AM static with your radio when using power accessories?

5port

Hyundai Power Antenna:

http://hdkautosport.com/Merchant2/merchant.mv?Screen=CTGY&Sto- re_Code=HA&Category_Code=PA

backy

No, no static on either Elantra. I have had that problem before with other cars, however, e.g. a Toyota Corolla, and I think it was a bad ground wire.

gfoxbruins

Does anyone know the specs for the factory-installed stereo on the Elantra GLS? (It's the base, non-Kenwood, AM/FM/cassette with 4 speakers.) I'm thinking of upgrading, but I want to know what I'm upgrading FROM.

I can't seem to find anything about how powerful (or not powerful) the stereo and it's speakers are anywhere online. I noticed the rear 6x9 speakers said they were 40W max/20W nominal, but that's about all I can deduce...

Also, is it difficult to replace the stereo and/or speakers? Can I do it myself easily, or is it something best left to the pros?

5port

I havent found the GLS factory stereo specs but here are the specs for the 04 GT factory stereo...Kenwood-MPV622

KEY FEATURES
- Flip-Down Removable Faceplate with Carrying Case
- High-Pass and Low-Pass Electronic Crossovers
- Kenwood Music Keg Ready
- Maximum Output Power: 50 Watts x 4
- Plays MP3-Encoded CD-Rs and Conventional CDs, CD-Rs, and CD-RWs
- Preouts: Front, Rear
- Rotary Encoder Volume Control
- Selectable Rear/Non-Fading Preout
- SIRIUS Satellite Ready
- System Q Sound Control
- LCD Display: Color Shock Variable Color

GENERAL FEATURES
- Clock
- Display Contrast Adjustment
- Display Dimmer
- Display Readout: 5 x 7 12-Character Dot Matrix
- Finish: Silver/Gray
- Flip-Down Removable Faceplate with Carrying Case
- Iso-Mount Capability for Japanese Vehicles
- Rotary Encoder Volume Control
- Sub Illumination: Blue
- Illuminated Function Buttons: Green & Red (Selectable)
- LCD Display: Color Shock Variable Color
- Touch-Tone Buttons: Defeatable

POWER RATINGS
- Full Bandwidth Power (less than 1%% THD): 22 Watts x 4
- Maximum Output Power: 50 Watts x 4

AUDIO FEATURES
- Attenuator with Smooth Volume Return
- Electronic Audio Control (Volume, Balance, Fader)
- Front/Rear Fader
- High-Pass Electronic Crossover: 100/125/170Hz/Through, 12dB/oct
- Loudness Control
- Low-Pass Electronic Crossover: 50/80/120Hz/Through, 12dB/oct
- Preouts: Front, Rear
- Selectable Rear/Non-Fading Preout
- Source Tone Memory
- System Q Sound Control: with User Memory
- Tone Controls: Bass, Midrange, Treble

COMPACT DISC FEATURES
- 0-Bit Mute: Independent Left & Right Channel
- CD Text
- Digital Filter: 8-Times Oversampling
- Digital Optimum Servo Control
- Digital to Analog Converter: Integrated Quad 1-Bit
- Intro Scan
- Play/Pause
- Plays MP3-Encoded CD-Rs and Conventional CDs, CD-Rs, and CD-RWs
- Precision Digital Timing (DPAC)
- Random Play
- Repeat Play: Track, Disc

AMPLIFIER FEATURES
- MOSFET Power Amplifier IC

CHANGER CONTROL FEATURES
- CD Text Display
- Changer Control: 2, or 1 + Aux (with KCA-S210A or Compatible Changer)
- Kenwood Music Keg Ready
- Random Play: Disc, Magazine
- Repeat Play
- Scan: Track, Disc

TUNER FEATURES
- Automatic Memory Entry
- HD Radio Ready
- High-Speed Multipath Control (CRSC) with ANRC
- Kenwood CR-2 Advanced Tuner
- Seek Tuning
- SIRIUS Satellite Ready
- Station Presets: 24 (18FM, 6 AM)

INCLUDED ACCESSORIES
- Remote Control: Full-Function 10-Key, Grip-Type

OPTIONAL ACCESSORIES
- KPA-CP100 Compass
- KPA-HD100 Heads-Up Display
- KPA-SS100 Sensor Unit
- KTC-SR901 Sirius Satellite Radio Tuner
- KTC-WB100 Weather Band Tuner

jimijames

I don't know the specs for the factory radio (my guess would be 14W/channel or some tiny number like that), but practically anything on the aftermarket will be an improvement. I replaced the CD player in my 03 GT (this was before the Kenwood was standard) with an Eclipse and the difference in sound quality was night and day... even thru the factory speakers. I added a 10" sub (it fits in the nook behind the drivers side rear wheel well - built a custom .5cu ft sealed box) and the sound is great for everyday listening. The factory speakers will crap out at ear bleeding volumes, but I like my hearing so I rarely visit those levels. The factory system put out muddy bass and not much of the higher frequencies. Replace your factory stereo with a quality aftermarket piece and you should be impressed. If not then you can change your speakers.

As for doing it yourself, it's not the hardest job but it certainly isn't easy either. The dark grey panel that runs from the drivers side of the dash across the instrument panel and down to the ash tray needs to come out. Take out 4 screws, 2 around the ash tray and 2 above the instrument cluster, and then pop a bunch of clips... this is the hard part because it feels like you are going to break the plastic. You then have to disconnect the switches and fish the panel past the steering wheel. Then pop out the radio/pocket and figure out how to install the new radio with the existing brackets (not always easy depending on the radio). All in all I would say not an easy job for a novice...I was a stereo/alarm installer in a past life, so I was able to change the stereos in both my GT and GLS myself. If you've never done a stereo before, I say spend the $50 or so and have the pros do it.

gfoxbruins

Thanks for the insight. I was intending to replace the factory speakers first, but it sounds like from your experience replacing the stereo itself would be a wiser first step. My local Best Buy and Circuit City both do free labor on installation, so it would only cost me about $30 I think for wiring harnesses, etc. to have it installed. Installing it myself sounds a bit out of my league and/or patience level. Of course, if I upgrade the stereo to anything beyond a 4x40W unit then I'll be overpowering the factory speakers and I'll have to replace them as well...

themanx

MY dealer upgraded my radio in my o3 GLS with a cheap DUAL brand cd player. It does the job and works well with the stock speakers.

http://www.spectravox.com/spectravox/xd6110.html

It does the job and they put it in for free as part of the deal.

I got my new 03 GLS in September with rebate for $12,150. With cruise control and mud guards.

ElantraSTan

jimijames

Free labor...even better!

I'm not trying to turn this into a car stereo message board, but I just wanted to caution you on the output power ratings on car stereos. When you see a rating higher than 10-15W x 4, then you are usually dealing with a MAX power rating. For example, my stereo is rated at 13W x 4 and 50W x 4 max. That means when needed (like low freq stuff), the internal amp is capable of supplying up to a 50W spike of power, but continuous output is less than 13Wx4. Of course the literature says my stereo is rated at 50Wx4. Dig deeper into the specs and you will see a much lower continuous power rating. Therefore your factory speakers should be safe no matter what the rating says. The quality of the output signal (which is harder to quantify) is more important than power output rating. A dirty signal (i.e. clipping) at low power will destroy a speaker faster than a clean signal at high power.

Moral of the story... don't let the sales guy push you into a speaker upgrade using the power rating. Try a quality head unit first and if still not happy then go for the speaker upgrade. Just trying to save you a little $$. Last note... the GT has 6 speakers where as the GLS has 4. I'm happy with the factory speaker sound in my GT, but I'm not sure if the lack of tweeters in the GLS will make yours sound that much less impressive. Good luck!

altsuv

jimijames:... the GT has 6 speakers where as the GLS has 4

Just wanted to clarify - my '02 GLS has 6 speakers, not 4. Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but I beleive the standard stereo with casette player comes with 4 speaker system, and the optional stereo with CD player comes with 6 speaker system. This was the case for '02 anyway. Maybe Hyundai has changed that for '04 MY?

jimijames

Altsuv, you're right. I think before '04, the CD player/6 speaker stereo was an option on the GLS, standard on the GT. I'm not sure how many speakers you get with the 04 GLS CD player upgrade.

jlflemmons

also, look at the distortion levels on those hi power systems. 10W with little distortion sounds much better than 50W with 10% distortion!

keziah

I'm the original owner of my '01 Elantra GLS today the alternator went dead, having owned many POS cars in college, I knew what was wrong as soon as my lights and radio went out driving to work this AM. Called Hyundai roadside asst. got it towed to my dealership, long story short..they called and said they couldnt get battery to charge they would have to replace it to find out what else was wrong...umm ok said I. they called later to say i could come pick it up, they had to replace the alternator. ok, np, under warrrenty. But, got there 3 min before closing so I couldnt talk yo anyone, the charged me $50 for "diagnosing & testing electrical system" and ~$82 for a battery!
Correct me if I'm wrong in my thinking here but the altenator dying killed the battery, this should all be covered under warrenty and as for the $50 diagnosing fee??? WTF is that about?

sorry for the typos one handed, had hand surgery 2 weeks ago!

so, any thoughts?

Kristi
St Louis, MO

5port

If the battery would not take a charge then $82 for that is justified.

  Its the $50 for diagnostic I have a problem with. Their diagnostic testing pointed them to a warranty item (alternator). If it had stopped there...no diagnostic charge. The fact that they found an O O Warranty item bad (battery) I'm sure is what gave them reason to charge the $50.

backy

I agree, since the diagnosis pointed to a warranty item, they should not charge the fee. I had something like this happen to my minivan awhile ago, and the cause was only a bad battery (I thought it was something else because of the strange way the car was behaving). The dealer charged a diagnosis fee and of course charged for the battery, which was not under warranty. You should talk to the service manager to see if they will refund the diagnosis fee.

gogophers1

Good luck.

Hopefully, you used your credit card to pay for the repair and the shop is within 50 miles of your home. If so, and your dealer (like my dealer) is uncooperative honoring the cost of the diagnostic under warranty, contact your credit card co. and dispute the charge.

drago

I have noticed that my new 2004 Elantra runs hotter than any other car I have ever owned. I was wondering if this is normal for a Hyundai. It generally runs very close to half (midway from cold to overheat). I also notice the same thing with a different car I test drove. Anyone else notice this and has it become an issue.

jpryba

Actually, I think it's normal for most cars to run around the halfway mark. My 02 Elantra is always a notch below halfway after warming up, and it's never budged from that in all the weather conditions I've driven it in. In contrast, the last 2 Grand Ams I had (an 87 and a 96) would normally run about halfway and then occasionally go up to 3/4 in warmer weather (in stop and go traffic) but then cool down again. I also noticed the same thing in a 99 Grand Am my ex used to have. So, nothing to worry about on your Elantra -- it should be fine.

drago

Thanks for the response. The reason I asked was because my 1988 Toyota pickup and my 2000 Ford F150 usually run with the gauge around 1/3 the way up and I never noticed any other car I have had run around halfway.

altsuv

My '02 Elantra temp gage runs at about half way too - I think its normal. My last car ('92 honda accord) also ran at about the half way mark, but did go up in stop & go traffic.

altsuv

My '02 Elantra temp gage runs at about half way too - I think its normal. My last car was the same - '92 honda accord.

don1

i have had my 2002 elantra gls for two and a half years. the heat gauge has allways set just below the halfway mark. it has never ran hot! i am sure that this is normal. btw,haven't had any problems with the car. we love it. don...

jpryba

I've noticed something about my 02 Elantra as of late -- when accelerating, the steering wheel gets a bit "stiff" when the engine is at higher rpms and I need to turn the wheel (like when merging into traffice while speeding up). It goes away when the rpms return to normal.

Try this on your Elantra to make sure it's not just me -- go 70 on the highway and shift into 3rd gear (this turns off overdrive). Try moving the steering wheel a little (maybe make a lane change or two) and compare that to how much easier the wheel moves when you have the car in normal Drive.

Is this torque steer in action, then? Is there anything related to tires or the suspension that could be causing this too?

backy

Maybe its the speed-sensitive steering. The steering is designed to get firmer at higher speeds. Maybe it's based on engine RPMs vs. speed.

boatman1339

It's an uncurable disease. The vibrations, as much as I can tell, will never go away. I noticed mine while driving home the day we bought the car.
Some of my other posts describe the hell I have been through with this peice of junk. It's been two years of in and out of the dealer shop, brake shops, tire shops etc. No solution exists for this problem other than getting a new car.
I have experienced every vibration that all of you have posted in this forum.
I have had problems with the air bag light coming on and off, its been off for a few weeks now, the same amount of time that the check engine light has been on. I have a popping sound in the radio that can only be heard when the radio is on with the volume off. I also have a problem with the door seals disentegrating, actually it looks like they are dissolving.
Yesterday, I finally reached a point of nearly explosive proportions when the vibrations got so bad I could barely hold the steering wheel.
I went home and pulled the front wheels and found the pads to be good, and the rotors glazed over to the point where they looked like mirrors. I could actually see myself in the reflection. I used emory cloth and removed the glazing from both sides of each rotor. The braking was smooth for about ten feet of braking. Also, the rotor vent area is like a solid peice of rust, so I have no choice but to buy new ones. These rotors look like they came from a junk yard, not from a new parts rack in a factory.
I would really like to find some Hyundai owners who would get together and launch a lawsuit against these people. Not only because of the vibration problems, but also because of their total lack of concern about the problem. They don't care, the dealers don't care. I have been all the way through the lemon law process here in florida, and that is also a joke. The Better Business Bureau provided the arbitrator, and he sided with Hyundai, after beleiving the likes and crap that the Hyundai Regional Mechanic told him.
I am willing to send copies of the ruling to any person who would like to use it for prosecution purposes. The fact is, the vibration problem will not be addressed by Hyundai, because they don't care.They just hide behind their legal talk, and their crappy ten year warranty. Read them closely, and you will find that they cover nothing. Unless you have a catastrophic failure of the motor, and you had all maintenance done on time and at Hyundai, it covers nothing.
I had a headlight that went out last week, and out of curosity i looked at the warranty, sure enough, its only covered for a year. My 96 grand am has never had a bulb replaced.Never had to put new rotors on it either, never had a severe or mild vibration problem and my kid has curbed it a few times. Hyundai is junk, junk, junk.
JUNK JUNK JUNK JUNK JUNK JUNK JUNK JUNK JUNK JUNK
Thanks for listening

don1

how old is your car? what is it? how many miles? do you still have the 5 year bumper to bumper warrenty? that will cover your headlight. as for your other problems, i have never experienced any of the afore mentioned problems with my 2002 elantra gls. on the contrary, i haven't experienced any problems in two and a half years. good milliage,great driving, a pleasure to drive. you have a lemon,that's for sure....

jpryba

Did you get the dealership to swap a set of tires and wheels from another Elantra without the vibration issue? That fixed my vibration issue the first time. (If you are in the first year or so of ownership still, they should do this for free without giving you much of a hassle.) The vibration on my Elantra came back a few months ago after the next rotation. A wheel balance or two plus moving a suspect tire to the back of the car has minimized the vibration enough -- and that should tide me over until I buy a new set of tires. If the new set of tires starts having issues after the first rotation, I'll raise a stink with the tire place I buy them from -- and if we can't get things fixed, then it'll be about time for me to get rid of the car (figuring I'll owe about as much as what it's worth by then).

Yes, I think Hyundai should be slapped with a class-action lawsuit for the vibration issue. I bought the Elantra because it cost $2-3K less than a Civic or Corolla -- and although I figured I would have a few small issues to deal with because Hyundai is still smoothing out the rough edges, their response on this specific issue has been pretty much unexcusable -- and the time spent on fixing the problem plus the money that will be spent on new tires, balancing, etc means that the difference in cost is now less than that $2-3K that made the Elantra a tempting buy in the first place. I don't want to make money off of this, though -- I just want Hyundai to fix the problem and not charge me for it. I think that's fair enough.

The Elantra is far from being JUNK JUNK JUNK (like your posting says). The funny thing is that you mention that you had a 96 Grand Am as well -- and that's what I would call JUNK JUNK JUNK (at least after the first 85K or so)!

backy

While not minimizing the problems some Elantra owners have with wheel vibration, I wonder how prevalent it really is. I mean, how likely is it that someone who experiences no vibration will make the effort to go to a forum like this and post, "Just want to let everyone know my Elantra has no vibration!"

Looking at the reliability history for the Elantra in CR, the '01 model had some kind of suspension problem noted by between 2% and 5% of those who returned the survey. The '02 and '03 had suspension problems noted by 2% or less. I think suspension is the most likely category for the CR survey for this kind of problem. (The other possibility might be brakes, which has the same survey results as suspension.) So that means of all the Elantra owners who returned the survey, only 5% or less had some kind of suspension problem over the first three years of ownership on the '01s and less than 2% have a problem there on the '02s and '03s. How many of those were the wheel shimmy? No way to tell.

BTW, does anyone have a '04 Elantra that has exhibited the wheel vibration problem? There were many changes made for '04.

mpcdc

Short reply-04 elantra gt-no shimmy problems

wdoran

My low gas warning light has never lit on my 2003 GLS with 11500 miles, several times I added 13 gals to tank at fill up (tank is 14.5). My other cars lit up with 4-5 gals remaining in tank. Do these cars indicate low gas later than other cars or do I have a small problem? Other than that I think my car is near perfect and never had a regret about buying an Elantra.

bikerpa

'04 GT stickshift hatch, bought two months ago, now at 6600ish miles, had it up to 100mph on I-95, no shimmy problems yet. Tires kept at 36psi front & rear, and at 40psi for autocrossing. Only issue is rough shifting from 1st to 2nd over 3500rpm and a very slight vibration that just started happening somewhere over the back seat at highway speeds... and that could be due to the subwoofer I installed last week.

backy

On my '01 GLS the little gas pump doesn't light up until there is a little over 1 gallon left in the tank. On some of my other cars, this has happened with 3-5 gallons left. Since it is consistent behavior I don't consider it a problem. I just watch the gas gauge and miles travelled and when it starts getting near E I fill up. I have let it get low enough for the light to come on a few times, which is pretty stupid, but I was playing the game "how far can I go on a tank of gas?" I've noticed that on my '04 GT the gas pump lights up earlier, before the needle hits E.

wdoran

Thanks backy, I think I'll carry a gas can the next time and see if light goes on before I stall. With only a 14.5 gal tank I hate to fill it too early. I'm usually a suburban driver with gas stations always near by. If light doesn't work I wouldn't even bother to fix it, just want to use it to say "get gas now".

jpryba

If Hyundai changed something related to the shimmy, then they should offer to fix Elantras that have the problem.

I guess the tires are the main suspect, as Hyundai switched from the Kumhos to the Michelins sometime before the 02's came out.

Then again, the Michelins are also a problem... and for some with the shimmy, any tire or even new wheels isn't fixing the shimmy.

So, a few observations -- first, some have a shimmy that can be fixed with new tires and/or wheels, but others may have something that is suspension-related (or maybe even powertrain-related). This is where the issue may be uncurable if Hyundai isn't willing to figure out what's causing the problem.

I think my shimmy can be fixed with new tires, but I don't want to take the plunge and find out that's not the case.

So, again... anyone with the shimmy issue needs to have the dealership swap tires and wheels with a shimmy-free Elantra to see if the problem goes away. If so, then that helps narrow down where the problem is. Granted, rebalancing should be tried first, but the vibration issue on the Elantra seems so common that maybe the swap should occur first. (That can be our new battle cry at the dealership -- "Swap first, balance later!")

justin

a Grand Am isn't too bad. they fall apart interior-wise, but they run like heck. Mom has a 95 or 96 V6 Grand Am Coupe. over 300k miles. shocks/struts/belts/brakes/tires. that is the only work that has EVER been done to it. it won't die, and she won't stop driving it! i know it has to be a fluke. she actually keeps going to look at Elantras and Sonatas because of the warranty, but i just don't think she will get 300k out of the Hyundai's.....

smith20

My '04 GT Auto has not exhibited the shimmy so far. We've had the car for 70 days now. Only problems are the airbag sensor not working quite right (seems to trigger at 120 pounds instead of 55) and a slight rattle in the driver's side door which is actually pretty quiet, but I can hear it because (1) the car overall is very quiet and (2) the rattle is only about 8 inches from my left ear.

Can someone tell me if the screw covers in the doors just pop off when pried, or do they need to be manipulated in some way first? I'm just cautious and don't want to break it if I check to see that the screws are tight. Thanks.

backy

Screw covers: This must be another "improvement" from early Elantras. Some of the covers on my '01 GLS popped off by themselves when slamming a door. By looking inside the hole, there appears to be a bit of threading in the socket. So you might try giving a little twist when pulling them out.

Tires: When did the current-gen Elantra ever come with Kumho tires standard? My GLS was built in September '00 and has the Michelins. Also the brochures and ads at the time touted the Michelin tires. Could it be some dealers swapped out the Michelins for lower-priced Kumhos?

smith20

Thanks for the advice.

baber1

Our 99 Elantra came with Michelins. At that time only Elantras with Automatics came with Michelins. The 5 spd Elantras came with Kumho tires. I even remember seeing a 99 Elantra 5 spd on the lot with Hankook tires. Our 99 never had the shimmy problem. I dont know when Hyundai started putting Michelins on all their Elantras. I also bought an Accent in 99. The Accent came with Kumho tires that were very good, they always kept their balance very well and nevr shimmied. In fact I never had to have the Kumho tires rebalanced just rotated every 7500 miles. I replaced the Kumho tires with Michelin rainforce tires at about 60,000 miles. The Michelins were always loosing their balance. I would get a shimmy at high speeds until I had them rebalanced. I was going to replace them with Kumhos when my Accent was totaled in an accident. My new 04 Elantra GLS 5spd has been shimmy free. My low fuel light on our 99 and 04 Elantra comes on with about 2 to 3 gallons left. The light is triggered by a sensor on the fuel sender unit installed in the gas tank. You can have the dealer check it and replace it if it is defective.

ems1

My Elantra developed a shimmy problem after I rotated the tires. For the rotation I moved the the front tires to the rear on the same side of the car. After the shimmy developed I moved the rear tires back to the front and it went away. This was clearly a case of a wheel balance problem. I am convinced the Michelin tires are the problem with my car, don't know about anyone else.
I was thinking about this and wondered if the brake rotors could be the problem on some of the other Elantras? There is a lot of weight in the rotors and I suppose a casting could be bad. Even if your wheels check out to be perfect and rotating the tires does not change the shimmy, I would think about replacing the rotors.

jpryba

I have wondered the same thing about the shimmy in my Elantra (if it is brake-related). I remember someone in this board mentioning how rebuilding the calipers and doing a few other things to the brakes fixed his shimmy (look at message 832). It cost him about $250, and Hyundai would not reimburse him for the cost. Personally, if this would fix the shimmy for good, I would just pay the $250 and eat it.

I am pretty sure it's just crappy tires on my Elantra, though, as the vibration happened right after rotation, and moving one of the tires to the back made the vibration change as well. In my case, the shimmy is pretty minor, and the worst it gets is when I moderately accelerate to get on the highway and level off at 65-70. The shimmy them goes away, occasionally coming back but not as bad.

I guess this means the tires on my car are "out of sync", right? Is it possible for this to happen even if the tire dealer says the tires are technically still within tolerances?

I guess there's one last thing we can try on our Elantras to rule out whether or not the problem is the wheels/tires or the powertrain. I guess if you go 70 or so and then put the car into neutral, the problem is probably mechanical if the shimmy goes away. If the shimmy is still there, then it's still probably a tire/wheel issue (not sure about it being a suspension issue, though). I just need to find the right road to do this on because you probably want to come to a complete stop before you switch the car back into drive, and a crowded highway may not be the best place to do this... (Before I do this, does anyone know if going into neutral in an automatic going 70 or so is ok?)

boatman1339

Yes, after they tries turning the rotors, doing an alignment and forced balance. No fix.
I have been trying to get this fixed since the day the bank bought it for me.
This is not the only problem with this car. It has also had speed sensors replaced. First only one, then I had to take it back because the correct repair for that problem is to replace two particular sensors at the same time, as they need to matched or something.
There have been several other problems, but when I think about them I just feel abused and violated.
Yesterday I put new tires on the car. Not Michelins though. They feel real nice, and the car handles fine. the vibration is still there. I found a lug nut that was installed crossthreaded. Back to the shop. They replaced the lug bolt and lug nut at no cost to me, but it cost them a bit at the Hyundai dealer. Something to think about isn't it. A simple lug bolt, commonly sold in auto parts stores, but the Hyundai bolt has to be special ordered, or purchased through the dealer.
This is how I justify calling this car junk,junk,junk.
I am very happy to hear that you have not had any problems like these with your car. good luck with it.

boatman1339

That post was mine. The shimmy came back after about 250 miles. It,s worse now than it was then. Just had new tires put on and shimmy is still there. Had the shop torque the lugs to 80ftlbs, still has shimmy.
Have been looking for rotors for this thing and can only find them at dealers. Does anyone know of an aftermarket manufacturer for these rotors and drums?

baber1

According to the manual the tires are rotated front straight to rear and Rear crosswise to front. Most tire dealers rotate straight front to rear rear to front. I always had to tell the tire dealers special about Hyundais wierd tire rotation proceedure. The tires on my 99 Accent and 99 Elantra always wore even this way.

jpryba

I don't think the 99 Elantra had this issue at all. It was the 01 model that got people complaining about the shimmy. Does anyone here with a 96-2000 Elantra have the shimmy, then? If so, please speak up!

jlflemmons

Straight rear to front, and crossing front to rear is a very common method of rotation. It allows the tires moved to the back to "settle in" to the reversed rotation direction. By the time the next rotation is done, the tires coming to the front have been rolling in the same direction for some time.

Be careful, though. Many of the high performance and rain tires are unidirectional and will become very squirrely in the rain if rotating in the wrong direction. As if the tread pattern weren't enough of a giveaway, these tires will usually have an arrow on the sidewall indicating the correct direction of rotation.

kev02gt

Has anyone tried using hubcentric ring adapters on their wheels to get rid of the shimmy? (I did a topic search and don't see mention of it on this board.) I have seen reference to them being used on aftermarket wheels to avoid shimmy in the 60-65 mph range, which is where we have the problem. Perhaps our wheels need some extra help.

firemanjack

Hey Kev..awhile back someone posted about putting on after market wheels and the dealer installed "hub centering rings" after discovering that the shimmy was still there . As I recall the shimmy went away for this person. I was going to go this route myself and somehow have been putting it off. It could be the solution..If you try it, please keep me informed. It's been over two years now, and I have tried about everything to rid the car of the shimmy, to no avail.
 Backy mentioned brakes..I had the rotors cut about a year ago..It was Hyndai's "first step" in ridding the car of the shimmy...Of course it didn't work and they charged me 150 bucks for the rotor cutting. The rotors seem a little warped again..My guess is, after this cut, they will need to be replaced..Someone was looking for an aftermarket supplier for rotors..I'd like to know one too..
          I still love this little car.......Jack

emelaeth

Hi...

I just bought a used Elantra and Im curious if anyone else has had any major issues with cracks in the manifold/exhaust pipes. I got a steal on this car and it seems to be in great condition other than this crack in the pipes. I did a search on yahoo to see if others had similiar problems and did find a few threads. So Im wondering just how big of a problem is this and once I get it fixed if its going to be a problem in the future.

Thanks for your replies,
Emmie