Hyundai Elantra Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • jprybajpryba Member Posts: 201
    I'll put up with it for another year and maybe try out new tires. Then I'm dumping the car when I owe about as much as what I can get for it in trade.
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Member Posts: 2,242
    anybody try swapping the rotors right to left? Just a thought....
  • boatman1339boatman1339 Member Posts: 16
    While trying to purchase new rotors for my 02 elantra gls, i noticed that this car is available with disc\drum or disc\disc braking systems.
    could there be a problem with the brake system itself, maybe the wrong master cylinder installed. The wrong amount of pressure could cause the calipers or shoes to contact the disc or drum.
    Mine is a disc\drum system.
    How about you other owners with a vibration problem. what are your brake systems?
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Member Posts: 2,242
  • jantajanta Member Posts: 1
    Hello --
    I'm hoping that you all can help me with this question. According to the Edmunds.com site, the towing capacity of the Hyundai Elantra is 3086 lbs (from this article: http://www.edmunds.com/reviews/list/top10/102426/article.html ). The dealers I've contacted say that the capacity is 1000 lbs. without a trailer brake and 1872 lbs. with a trailer brake.

    Does anyone here know how Edmunds determined capacity in this case, and why it differs so radically from what the dealers say? (I'm aware that the dealers could just be doing a CYA maneuver) Additionally, is this true only of the 2004 model or of earlier models as well? Finally, has anyone here used their Elantra to tow a trailer of any sort?

    (I did search the boards with several different search terms, but came up empty. If there's an ongoing discussion of this, please let me know.)

    Thanks in advance!
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Member Posts: 2,242
    Per Hyundai Technical is 1872, and that is with trailer brakes. I have no idea where they came up with the 3K tow rating. That looks more like a gross combined weight rating. Personally, I think even 1800lbs is a stretch. The Elantra is a great little car, but no tow vehicle.

    Jim
  • backybacky Member Posts: 18,949
    At least it can tow somethiing. Some compacts are not rated to tow anything, according to the manufacturer.
  • starriverstarriver Member Posts: 26
    Elantra GLS 02, 5 speed manual. I think my car has little engine brake effect when I don't push gas pedal, compare to other manual cars I drove before. Do you guys have the same feeling?
    What can I do if I want to have more engine brake?
  • backybacky Member Posts: 18,949
    Can you be a little more specific? What gear(s) are you referring to? What other cars are you comparing the Elantra to?
  • starriverstarriver Member Posts: 26
    I used to have a KIA sephia 1.8L and the car slows down very quickly after I release gas pedal on gear 5.
    Recently I also tried Toyota Camry 2.2L, which also has similar feeling with sephia.

    With elantra, at gear 5 the car slows down very slowly. Even in gear 2, it couldn't hold speed on a downhill.

    I wondering whether the car is injecting too much fuel after I release gas pedal, just a guess.
  • backybacky Member Posts: 18,949
    There can be a hesitation in the RPMs going down; that is pretty common these days and is related to emissions controls. If it seems really off you might take it into the dealer; there's been TSBs for that. I don't have time right now to look it up but I'm pretty sure it was for the '02 model.
  • starriverstarriver Member Posts: 26
    Backy,Thanks for your information.
    I found there is a TSB(04-36-011) about 2001-2003 ELANTRA ECM REPROGRAMMING TO
    REDUCE THE DELAY IN RPM DROP BETWEEN SHIFTS
    WITH THE AIR CONDITIONER ON
    I don't think my car's problem is related to AC ON, but it is slow RPM DROP.
    I think it is worth to try reprogramming.
  • firemanjackfiremanjack Member Posts: 123
    My guess is that this is normal on this car.
     Someone mentioned that engine braking was diminished because of this. I agree..When I first got the car, I was rather putoff by this, my previous regular driver being an '88 VW Fox with 4 spd manual..A nice shifting little car, whose rpm's dropped between shifts like all older vehicles. I find that with the RPM's hanging slowly between shifts I can more easily match upshifts and downshifts with the rpm's.
     I think I may have even adjusted my shifting to accomodate the rpm hang...At any rate I find no problem with it now..I wonder what other modern manual trannies are like? Any experiences here?
                             Jack
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Member Posts: 2,242
    Revs drop right off on shifts, and while the engine braking in 5th is a little light (good grief, it's an overdrive gear) 4th will bring it right on down.

    Jim
  • mrr162mrr162 Member Posts: 8
    I am ready to buy an Elantra for my daughter, but have one concern holding me back. The Insurance Institute for Highway Safety rated the Elantra poor on its offset crash results mainly due to a late deploying airbag. I would think this would be a software or maybe sensor issue that Hyundai could have fixed easily, but haven't seen anything confirming it was done. I know Infiniti had a similar problem on its Q45 a number of years ago and fixed the problem quickly.

    I've talked to a few salespeople about this issue and they just give me a dumb stare. I was hoping someone on the board could help confirm for me a fix was implemented.
  • backybacky Member Posts: 18,949
    I have done some research on this question with HMA. Their story is that Hyundai researched the IIHS test results from '01 and could find no problem with the airbag system. They noted the Elantra uses the same sensors as the Sonata, and that car did not have the same problem. The other problem identified by the IIHS test was the driver's seat moved forward too far, "injuring" the dummy's leg. Hyundai did redesign the seat track in '02. But I don't know for sure if that new track is used in current Elantras.

    I think it is significant that Hyundai asked the IIHS to retest the '04 Elantra. They would not have done that unless there had been some changes to the design affecting frontal offset crash test performance. The test was conducted by the IIHS earlier this year, but for some reason the results have not been released. It could just be that IIHS is waiting to do one of there infrequent press releases that contains the results for the Elantra and some cars in its same class.

    Note that the NHTSA retested the Elantra this year, and the frontal results changed: from 4 stars for driver and 5 stars for passenger on the '01 to 5 stars for driver and 4 for passenger on the '04. Side impact results remained the same.
  • Karen_SKaren_S Member Posts: 5,092
    From the Edmunds.com editors:

    Regarding the towing capacity information in the Top 10 Vehicles for Towing article, the 3,086-lb capacity we list is with the use of trailer brakes (without brakes, it is only 1,000 lbs) -- this information is provided by Hyundai on their media site.
  • jimijamesjimijames Member Posts: 41
    Wow... I checked hyundainews.com (go to press kit -> 2004 models) and sure enough, the little elantra is rated for 3086lb! (w/trailer brakes) The only other 04 model that is cable of towing anyhing is the Santa Fe... and the elantra towing capacity bests nearly all of its' available configurations!

    Now that it's official, I'd like to see someone actually do it. I don't care what car you are driving, 130ish hp and ft lb of torque just doesn't seem like a whole lot to lug 5700-6000 lbs (curb weight+trailer+passengers). I also think the clutch would vaporize after a few miles too :-).
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Member Posts: 2,242
    I have towed everything from flatbeds to 30' travel trailers with vans and trucks. If you hook 3K to the back of an Elantra, the first thing that will happen is the rear suspension will bottom out as a trailer should have 10-12% of the weight on the tongue. IE 300-360lbs. Now, I will agree that proper trailer brakes will handle the whoa, but you better be ready for a really long acceleration curve and have a fat wallet for the clutch/AT replacements.

    To be more serious, I would guess that is a mis-print. Other reliable sources show the tow capacity at 1212lbs dead weight regardless of trailer brakes. That seems much more in line with a vehicle of this size an power.
  • maynard25maynard25 Member Posts: 2
    Hi Emmie, I'm in a similar situation (2001 used Elantra, great price), but just found out that my exhaust manifold is cracked. Seems to be a bit of a costly repair as my warranty is up. I'd be interested in knowing what you or others have found out about this problem and if it will be recurring.

    Thanks
  • altsuvaltsuv Member Posts: 53
    Hey guys. I'm planning on rotating my tires this weekend. I'd like to try and avoid the notorious shimmy, so I'm going to make sure and torque the lug nuts to avoid potential warping issues.

    I've read here that the torque value is 80 ft-lbs. I'm trying to confirm this, buy the owners manual says nothing. Also looking on webtech, but can't find it.

    Can anyone provide a link to the source of the 80 ft-lb torque value of the lug nuts?

    thanks
  • altsuvaltsuv Member Posts: 53
    I found it on webtech. I would provide the link, but the full address doesn't apear at the top of the screen.

    I actually found it in two places.

    Under "Suspension System", for the "Wheel nut" (I'm guessing this is the same as a lug nut) the value is 67-82 lbft.

    Under "Drive Shaft & Axle", the Wheel nut value is 66-81 lbft.

    I'm not sure why there's a 1 lbft difference, but whatever, it's close enough to 80 for me.
  • wbobbyd40wbobbyd40 Member Posts: 1
    Have had 2002 GT for 27 months. Have 23K miles. Body has a lot of dings. Warranty repairs; warped front rotors, switch on windshield wipers, driver seat loose, and hatch mechanism broke. Leather interior wearing so-so, tires replaced at 16K miles, shimmy has appeared at times. 2 recalls, Overall I rate it between a B and B-. Mileage varies. Overall it is comfortable and a reasonable value. Don't think I would buy another one but would consider Hyundai's other offerings.
  • don1don1 Member Posts: 14
    wbobby, i have a 2002 gls,had it for 30 monthes this month. 22,000 miles, trouble free! not real crazy abot the paint job, but a small sacrifice to make for all the good stuff. i have never had any problem with this car. sorry you had so much trouble with your car, but don't give up on hyundai. maybe try an elantra gls next time. good luck. don...
  • zicozico Member Posts: 2
    Until now, I've never felt compelled to post a message before. However... I own a 2004 Hyundai Elantra GT that seems to be having a recurring problem. As most of you are probably well aware, modern vehicles with a manual transmission have a "safety" feature that requires the driver to depress the clutch in order to start the engine. It seems my car's sensor, which is really nothing more than a button switch that is depressed by the clutch arm, has already failed once (whence I had it replaced) and is doing it again!!! Needless to say, until I get this thing in the shop, I have to go thru an annoying process of multiple clutch depressions and key turning. Has anyone else had this problem? Is there any way to override what I consider a ridiculous safety feature? Thanx
  • jimijamesjimijames Member Posts: 41
    My 03 GT clutch switch did that a couple times last winter. No problems in the warmer weather so I haven't had it replaced. I found that if I just held the key in the start position and then pushed the clutch in it would start ok (I only do this when it's acting up, normally I depress the clutch first like normal folk). We'll see what happens this winter.

    Bypassing is easy (NO 2 wire switch that is closed to start), but I don't know if it's legal...therefore I don't want to post specifics. Problem is if you do try to start it in gear and the car damages someone or something, whoever bypassed the switch will probably be in a world of hurt... not to mention what you would have to deal with.
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Member Posts: 2,242
    My dad got in, and being used to an auto, stuck in the key and turned. And, being tuned perfectly, the car fired on the first turn, jumped forward in first gear, and nailed the back of his company car.
  • cuisinecuisine Member Posts: 1
    I bought an Elantra (2002) that started to have a annoying problem recently. While breaking, there is a loud noise coming from the back of the car. I assume that it comes somehow from the brakes but am not sure.
    I brought the car twice to the Hyundai car dealer who every time assured me to fix the problem (the first time he said to have adjusted the brakes and the second he claimed to have changed the tyre...which does not seem to make sense to me at all) but guess what: the noise is still there. It typically shows up after I have driven a little while (5-10 minutes).
    I wondered if anybody has an idea what the cause could be? Any idea would be of great help.
    Many thx
  • altsuvaltsuv Member Posts: 53
    When you say "loud noise", what do you mean? Can you describe it a little more? Is it a scraping noise, like metal on metal? A squealing noise? A rumbling?

    Also, did someone from the dealer ride with you in the car? It's important that someone hears it with you, so you can say "Hear that? That's the noise I want fixed."

    One more thing: how many miles do you have on your car? If you're at 40k miles or so, it could mean you need new brake shoes, or brake pads if you have the ABS. However, I would think that the dealer would have checked for this.
  • jimbeaumijimbeaumi Member Posts: 620
    Mine seem to be fine at over 48K miles ....
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Member Posts: 2,242
    This has been adressed before, but the rear drum brakes on an Elantra can load up with lining dust when new linings are breaking in. This will cause the auto adjusters to not operate, the brakes don't stay "tight", and you get the weirdest noise out of the things when braking. The TSB (no, I don't have the number handy, but it is on the Hyundai site) calls to pull the rear wheels, pull the drums, wash everything down with brake cleaner, and manually adjust the star wheels to take up the excess slack. The auto adjusters will work after that, and generally speaking the problem doesn't come back as the initial surface of the shoes is now polished and worn in to the shape of the drums. Worked just fine on my '02. Problem occured at about 4K, and after the service never came back. I am at nearly 38K now.

    Jim
  • gogophers1gogophers1 Member Posts: 218
    I just got back from a trip to Walmart and after entering the usual information into their little filter computer contraption (2002 Hyundai Elantra 2.0 liter 4cyl), it kicked out a list of filters, including the one I usually buy, the Fram 7317.

    As I've always been bothered by how dinky that filter size seems, I tried entering other model year Elantras (2001, 2003 and 2004) around mine where the exact same engine was used. Interestingly, it produced a different filter size for those three years, the 6607. But that puppy was even smaller! So I went ahead and bought the 7317 again.

    But I'm really curious and am wondering if anyone knows...why would Walmart's computer list show one size filter for model years 2001, 2003 and 2004 and a different size filter for 2002? This defies all logic, unless, as I assume, Walmart's list just isn't all that accurate.

    Has anyone went back and forth between the two filters? I assume both fit just fine on Elantras model years 2001-present, but logic (my logic) dictates that the bigger filter (presumably with more filter area) is the better filter. I should also mention that I've had the Hyundai dealer change my oil before and the OEM filter seemed about twice the size of the 7317 I'm using now.

    Any thoughts?
  • 5port5port Member Posts: 395
    I never did a comparison between filters. When I first bought my GT in 01 I bought 10 Hyundai OEM filters on-line at $3.99 each. Now that I've run out I will go to Walmart and use their house brand filter (ST? for $2.50 or so). A friend is using them in his Elantra and claims they are just fine. I used to be a Fram believer until I saw how they are made. No thanks.
  • tomkimbenetomkimbene Member Posts: 9
    I've also been using the Wal-Mart house brand (SuperTech, manufactured by Champion Labs). Based on comments I've read on the Internet, the consensus seems to be they're fine, as 5port suggests.

    I sent an e-mail to Champion Labs some time ago about the change in sizing in the Wal-Mart catalog for my '02. Here's the reply I got:

    "The ST2808 was recommended in the 2002 catalog. This number is no longer available and the ST7317 is now recommended for the 2002 Hyundai Elantra.

    The ST6607 is a shorter filter and can be used as an alternate.

    Thank you.

    Chad Garrett
    Technical Service Representative
    Champion Laboratories, Inc."

    Some people say the smaller sized oil filters are actually better. Not sure the exact reason, maybe less of a delay in coming up to full pressure?

    At any rate, the Hyundai filter is probably better, but $1.99 for the ST7313 appeals to the same sensibilities that convinced me to buy a Hyundai in the first place...value!
  • gogophers1gogophers1 Member Posts: 218
    That's the one for which I was looking. No wonder I couldn't find it. I think I'll check with the Hyundai dealer for oil filter prices the next time I pick up an air filter (for which I can find no aftermarket alternative at all).

    Just curious, but do you guys use a filter wrench or just hand tighten? I haven't found a wrench small enough to safely grab the tiny 7317/6607 filters, so I use a 10mm wrench to remove the plastic drain ramp on each change so I can get my arm up there with enough leverage to completely loosen the old and tighten the new filter in place. I've thought about just permanently removing the plastic ramp and chucking it as it seems to serve no purpose other than being an annoyance at every oil change.
  • 5port5port Member Posts: 395
    I've been using the stock Hyundai filters and found that a socketed cap works well. I place the cap on the filter, insert my 3/8 rachet and loosen the filter to remove it. After installing the new filter I hand tighten the filter then use the cap for another 1/4 turn.
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Member Posts: 2,242
    5sport,

    I have looked all over the parts houses, and other than going with snap-on or such, I cannot find a filter cap that fits. That little sucker is juussstttt a little bit too small.

    Jim
  • 5port5port Member Posts: 395
    I believe I bought this cap at US1 Auto Parts when it was open (now closed) near my house. It is tough to find a cap that fits the smaller sized filters. When I get home I will look at it closely and post any further info.
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Member Posts: 2,242
    Thanks! That is an odd sized little filter.
  • mrsbritneymrsbritney Member Posts: 1
    I just bought a Hyundai Elantra 2004 at the end of June. It is an automatic.
    I am having a problem of some sorts.
    There is no shimmy or anything like that, but as I drive I hear a "thumping" sound right underneath my driver side wheel well. It is over every bump and and little hump in the road.
    It is almost a thumping "click" type of sound. And I can feel it under my foot as I drive. Right under that place where I rest my left foot.
    The wheel seems fine as do the tires, does anyone have any idea what could be wrong?
  • deputydeputy Member Posts: 2
    I'll never buy a Hyundai again! 2001 Elantra..minor damage to right side from last year snow storm, friend grazed it with snow blower...14 months later sitting with car in park-passenger side airbag discharges locking seatbelt but no airbag comes out....2 weeks later sitting again with car in park just about to get out..drivers side airbag deploys striking me in side of head rupturing eardrum..take it to dealer where their "super computer" tells me it was in a collision for the passenger side! Brought it back after the drivers side incident...and the district rep claims there is undercarriage damage that caused the airbag to deploy! Nice to know the dang airbag will work if you get hit under your car! They denied the claim and the consumer affairs dept from Hyundai did nothing...so it's attorney time, BBB time, attorney general time. Buy American I know i'm going to once I unload this peice of crap!
  • jimbeaumijimbeaumi Member Posts: 620
    These are the options? One bad experience with this car -- or -- buying an American model? A little research will tell you that on the whole Asian manufacturers -- including Koreans -- are producing a better product than the Big 2.5. Your posting seems to suggest that a simple move to an American model is the answer, when you could, in fact, have just as bad luck as now.

    Too bad about your experience, but the posters here know it is not indicative of Hyundai's quality. You are on the right track, however, pursuing this case with BBB, etc. Best of luck getting it all resolved.
  • backybacky Member Posts: 18,949
    The undercarriage damage could very well have triggered the side airbags, e.g. by damaging the side airbag sensors or wiring or by being just barely enough of an impact to set off the SABs. TSB 00-90-008 discusses precautions for servicing the Elantra with respect to the SRS; one of them is:

    Do not make any sharp blows or impacts on the vehicle, especially near the SRSCM or the satellite sensors, until after the battery negative terminal has been disconnected for at least 30 seconds.

    I don't know exactly where the SAB satellite sensors are on the Elantra, but it's possible they are on the lower part of the car, so that they won't go off for a minor hit to a door.

    This is a good cautionary for owners of cars with SABs--after any impact to the side of the car, it might be a good idea to have the diagnostic codes for the SRS checked. I would not have thought of that but for deputy's post.

    The other thing mentioned by the TSBs (see 04-90-002) is that SRS repairs caused by collisions are not covered under warranty. :-( So while I sympathize with deputy, I can understand Hyundai's position if they believe the air bag deployment was caused by an impact to the car.

    The TSBs can be found at:
    http://www.hmaservice.com/webtech/default.asp
  • deputydeputy Member Posts: 2
    Thank you for your information..I am really just upset that a safety feature would be so inconsistant....why on earth would you put a sensor on the undercarriage? The fact is that..if I did hit a curb or a chunk of ice (live in the northeast here) why didn't the airbag deploy then? The care was in PARK and the car was not running when this happened...I took key out of ignition and was exiting the vehicle. Good reaction time from the sensor I'd say only took 13 months to deploy..sorry just a bit of sarcasim...again thank you for replying...drive safe...
  • elangtelangt Member Posts: 2
    My 2004 Elantra GT has about 3000 miles on it and the computer MPG is consistently off. I do mostly a highway commute at around 60 mph (break in period included) and the computer says I get 36-38mpg. Actual mpg is around 31 mpg. Is the Computer just a gimmick for people who don't do the math on their own, making people think they are getting better mileage? Thanks in advance for any replies.
  • backybacky Member Posts: 18,949
    I've noticed that the computer and actual mpg are pretty close. I've also noticed that depending on the gas station, I can put significantly more gas in the tank (like two gallons!) before click-off at one station than another. At one station in my neighborhood, even if I try to top off the tank I can't get it nearly as full as a station a mile away. So when you are measuring mpg at the pump, do you always fill at the same station, the same pump, the same time of day, and shut off at the same point?
  • smith20smith20 Member Posts: 256
    I've had similar experiences to what Backy is describing . . . I have noticed with every car I've ever driven that the slant of the ground at the pump is what seems to make the biggest difference in how much gas the car will take. If the ground is higher near the pump, then the car might accept in excess of a gallon more than if the ground is slanted towards the pump. I think the mpg computer is probably within at most 1-2 mpg on our Elantra, which I think is reasonable.

    Sometimes, when I have a series of very poor stop-and-go commutes (I seriously dislike my route/area for driving), the mpg computer reports only about 21. So it's not always a rosy mpg. I hope it's not over-inflating too much! :) Our best has been about 34 mpg on a long trip on the interstate highways.
  • backybacky Member Posts: 18,949
    That's close to what I am getting (automatic). My wife gets around 22 in town, lots of short trips and stops, A/C on all the time, heavy foot. I get around 26 in town, but I don't run the A/C as much. Best has been 37 mpg on the highway with a full load of passengers and cargo, A/C part way, 60-70 mph.
  • jimijamesjimijames Member Posts: 41
    1) I'm seeing about 31-33mpg tracking miles and gallons and the computer usually shows 32.x mpg, so I'd say it's pretty accurate. If yours is showing something that looks inaccurate, you might want to reset it (hold in the reset button for a couple seconds, just like reseting the odo). It will be touchy for the first few miles, but will eventually settle down.
    2) I started having trouble with my clutch safety switch (ironically right after I posted that mine was ok). It was getting to a point where I would have to kick the clutch to the firewall several times and sometimes the switch would open mid-start. I stuck my head under the dash and pressed the switch with my finger a few times. Since then have not had any trouble at all. Is this a fix? probably not, but I thought I'd pass it along just in case.
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Member Posts: 2,242
    It is an unfortunate thing that a lot of the little switches used in autos are supplied by the lowest bidder and not always the best quality. Chances are you can buy a replacement switch (non-Hyundai) and never see the problem again. Not slamming Hyundai here, it is all over the place from the door jamb switches that don't turn on the cabin lights to the infamous Chevy/GMC brake light switch that wouldn't open, leaving the brake lights on all the time.

    Try finding an aftermarket switch and see if that takes care of the problem. In answer to your question of whether or not moving the switch with your finger is a fix, probably only for the short term. What can sometimes help is to press the switch in with your finger and let it "snap" out. This sometimes will clean the contact contamination enough for the switch to work for a good while. It is generally bad contact resistance that causes this failure, rather than a complete mechanical failure.

    Jim
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