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Comments
could there be a problem with the brake system itself, maybe the wrong master cylinder installed. The wrong amount of pressure could cause the calipers or shoes to contact the disc or drum.
Mine is a disc\drum system.
How about you other owners with a vibration problem. what are your brake systems?
I'm hoping that you all can help me with this question. According to the Edmunds.com site, the towing capacity of the Hyundai Elantra is 3086 lbs (from this article: http://www.edmunds.com/reviews/list/top10/102426/article.html ). The dealers I've contacted say that the capacity is 1000 lbs. without a trailer brake and 1872 lbs. with a trailer brake.
Does anyone here know how Edmunds determined capacity in this case, and why it differs so radically from what the dealers say? (I'm aware that the dealers could just be doing a CYA maneuver) Additionally, is this true only of the 2004 model or of earlier models as well? Finally, has anyone here used their Elantra to tow a trailer of any sort?
(I did search the boards with several different search terms, but came up empty. If there's an ongoing discussion of this, please let me know.)
Thanks in advance!
Jim
What can I do if I want to have more engine brake?
Recently I also tried Toyota Camry 2.2L, which also has similar feeling with sephia.
With elantra, at gear 5 the car slows down very slowly. Even in gear 2, it couldn't hold speed on a downhill.
I wondering whether the car is injecting too much fuel after I release gas pedal, just a guess.
I found there is a TSB(04-36-011) about 2001-2003 ELANTRA ECM REPROGRAMMING TO
REDUCE THE DELAY IN RPM DROP BETWEEN SHIFTS
WITH THE AIR CONDITIONER ON
I don't think my car's problem is related to AC ON, but it is slow RPM DROP.
I think it is worth to try reprogramming.
Someone mentioned that engine braking was diminished because of this. I agree..When I first got the car, I was rather putoff by this, my previous regular driver being an '88 VW Fox with 4 spd manual..A nice shifting little car, whose rpm's dropped between shifts like all older vehicles. I find that with the RPM's hanging slowly between shifts I can more easily match upshifts and downshifts with the rpm's.
I think I may have even adjusted my shifting to accomodate the rpm hang...At any rate I find no problem with it now..I wonder what other modern manual trannies are like? Any experiences here?
Jack
Jim
I've talked to a few salespeople about this issue and they just give me a dumb stare. I was hoping someone on the board could help confirm for me a fix was implemented.
I think it is significant that Hyundai asked the IIHS to retest the '04 Elantra. They would not have done that unless there had been some changes to the design affecting frontal offset crash test performance. The test was conducted by the IIHS earlier this year, but for some reason the results have not been released. It could just be that IIHS is waiting to do one of there infrequent press releases that contains the results for the Elantra and some cars in its same class.
Note that the NHTSA retested the Elantra this year, and the frontal results changed: from 4 stars for driver and 5 stars for passenger on the '01 to 5 stars for driver and 4 for passenger on the '04. Side impact results remained the same.
Regarding the towing capacity information in the Top 10 Vehicles for Towing article, the 3,086-lb capacity we list is with the use of trailer brakes (without brakes, it is only 1,000 lbs) -- this information is provided by Hyundai on their media site.
Now that it's official, I'd like to see someone actually do it. I don't care what car you are driving, 130ish hp and ft lb of torque just doesn't seem like a whole lot to lug 5700-6000 lbs (curb weight+trailer+passengers). I also think the clutch would vaporize after a few miles too :-).
To be more serious, I would guess that is a mis-print. Other reliable sources show the tow capacity at 1212lbs dead weight regardless of trailer brakes. That seems much more in line with a vehicle of this size an power.
Thanks
I've read here that the torque value is 80 ft-lbs. I'm trying to confirm this, buy the owners manual says nothing. Also looking on webtech, but can't find it.
Can anyone provide a link to the source of the 80 ft-lb torque value of the lug nuts?
thanks
I actually found it in two places.
Under "Suspension System", for the "Wheel nut" (I'm guessing this is the same as a lug nut) the value is 67-82 lbft.
Under "Drive Shaft & Axle", the Wheel nut value is 66-81 lbft.
I'm not sure why there's a 1 lbft difference, but whatever, it's close enough to 80 for me.
Bypassing is easy (NO 2 wire switch that is closed to start), but I don't know if it's legal...therefore I don't want to post specifics. Problem is if you do try to start it in gear and the car damages someone or something, whoever bypassed the switch will probably be in a world of hurt... not to mention what you would have to deal with.
I brought the car twice to the Hyundai car dealer who every time assured me to fix the problem (the first time he said to have adjusted the brakes and the second he claimed to have changed the tyre...which does not seem to make sense to me at all) but guess what: the noise is still there. It typically shows up after I have driven a little while (5-10 minutes).
I wondered if anybody has an idea what the cause could be? Any idea would be of great help.
Many thx
Also, did someone from the dealer ride with you in the car? It's important that someone hears it with you, so you can say "Hear that? That's the noise I want fixed."
One more thing: how many miles do you have on your car? If you're at 40k miles or so, it could mean you need new brake shoes, or brake pads if you have the ABS. However, I would think that the dealer would have checked for this.
Jim
As I've always been bothered by how dinky that filter size seems, I tried entering other model year Elantras (2001, 2003 and 2004) around mine where the exact same engine was used. Interestingly, it produced a different filter size for those three years, the 6607. But that puppy was even smaller! So I went ahead and bought the 7317 again.
But I'm really curious and am wondering if anyone knows...why would Walmart's computer list show one size filter for model years 2001, 2003 and 2004 and a different size filter for 2002? This defies all logic, unless, as I assume, Walmart's list just isn't all that accurate.
Has anyone went back and forth between the two filters? I assume both fit just fine on Elantras model years 2001-present, but logic (my logic) dictates that the bigger filter (presumably with more filter area) is the better filter. I should also mention that I've had the Hyundai dealer change my oil before and the OEM filter seemed about twice the size of the 7317 I'm using now.
Any thoughts?
I sent an e-mail to Champion Labs some time ago about the change in sizing in the Wal-Mart catalog for my '02. Here's the reply I got:
"The ST2808 was recommended in the 2002 catalog. This number is no longer available and the ST7317 is now recommended for the 2002 Hyundai Elantra.
The ST6607 is a shorter filter and can be used as an alternate.
Thank you.
Chad Garrett
Technical Service Representative
Champion Laboratories, Inc."
Some people say the smaller sized oil filters are actually better. Not sure the exact reason, maybe less of a delay in coming up to full pressure?
At any rate, the Hyundai filter is probably better, but $1.99 for the ST7313 appeals to the same sensibilities that convinced me to buy a Hyundai in the first place...value!
Just curious, but do you guys use a filter wrench or just hand tighten? I haven't found a wrench small enough to safely grab the tiny 7317/6607 filters, so I use a 10mm wrench to remove the plastic drain ramp on each change so I can get my arm up there with enough leverage to completely loosen the old and tighten the new filter in place. I've thought about just permanently removing the plastic ramp and chucking it as it seems to serve no purpose other than being an annoyance at every oil change.
I have looked all over the parts houses, and other than going with snap-on or such, I cannot find a filter cap that fits. That little sucker is juussstttt a little bit too small.
Jim
I am having a problem of some sorts.
There is no shimmy or anything like that, but as I drive I hear a "thumping" sound right underneath my driver side wheel well. It is over every bump and and little hump in the road.
It is almost a thumping "click" type of sound. And I can feel it under my foot as I drive. Right under that place where I rest my left foot.
The wheel seems fine as do the tires, does anyone have any idea what could be wrong?
Too bad about your experience, but the posters here know it is not indicative of Hyundai's quality. You are on the right track, however, pursuing this case with BBB, etc. Best of luck getting it all resolved.
Do not make any sharp blows or impacts on the vehicle, especially near the SRSCM or the satellite sensors, until after the battery negative terminal has been disconnected for at least 30 seconds.
I don't know exactly where the SAB satellite sensors are on the Elantra, but it's possible they are on the lower part of the car, so that they won't go off for a minor hit to a door.
This is a good cautionary for owners of cars with SABs--after any impact to the side of the car, it might be a good idea to have the diagnostic codes for the SRS checked. I would not have thought of that but for deputy's post.
The other thing mentioned by the TSBs (see 04-90-002) is that SRS repairs caused by collisions are not covered under warranty. :-( So while I sympathize with deputy, I can understand Hyundai's position if they believe the air bag deployment was caused by an impact to the car.
The TSBs can be found at:
http://www.hmaservice.com/webtech/default.asp
Sometimes, when I have a series of very poor stop-and-go commutes (I seriously dislike my route/area for driving), the mpg computer reports only about 21. So it's not always a rosy mpg. I hope it's not over-inflating too much!
2) I started having trouble with my clutch safety switch (ironically right after I posted that mine was ok). It was getting to a point where I would have to kick the clutch to the firewall several times and sometimes the switch would open mid-start. I stuck my head under the dash and pressed the switch with my finger a few times. Since then have not had any trouble at all. Is this a fix? probably not, but I thought I'd pass it along just in case.
Try finding an aftermarket switch and see if that takes care of the problem. In answer to your question of whether or not moving the switch with your finger is a fix, probably only for the short term. What can sometimes help is to press the switch in with your finger and let it "snap" out. This sometimes will clean the contact contamination enough for the switch to work for a good while. It is generally bad contact resistance that causes this failure, rather than a complete mechanical failure.
Jim