Hyundai Elantra Maintenance and Repair

backy

Need more information. Hold old is your car? Did you buy it new or used? Was the airbag in fact out of warranty when you first noticed the problem? Your statement that you've spent a lot of money trying to fix it leads me to believe it was out of warranty. If not, do you have any records of the work on the airbag? You can use those records to show Hyundai that the problem existed before the warranty expired.

 

If this is an early '01 GLS, there was a recall for the side airbags that affected about 900 cars in late '00. One symptom of the problem is that the airbag light would stay on. Your dealer should be able to tell if your car ever had the recall performed.

tannith

The car is 4 years old. I bought it used. The airbag light came on about a month after I bought the car. Supposidly my car didn't fall into the recall because of it's manufature date. I have faxed the receipts to Hyundai, mailed them, etc and they still won't aknowlege the problem.

 

Warranty work was done on it at that time and it didn't happen for about 3 months. As soon as the warranty ran out the problem came back and it's been a battle ever since.

backy

Replacement parts from Hyundai have a 1-year, 12,000 mile warranty. If you noticed the problem recurring within that period and have documentation to that effect (e.g. brought the car into the dealer for the problem), it should be covered even if the warranty has expired now.

 

Have you talked with someone at the National Consumer Assistance Center (800-633-5151)? If so and they refuse to help you, the next step might be the BBB dispute resolution process, which is outlined in your car's warranty book.

gfoxbruins

I didn't receive an actual document about the airbag issue, but I did receive a phone call last month from my dealer offering to send part of the passenger seat itself back in to Hyundai for a factory adjustment. Apparently Hyundai is not willing to allow the dealers to do this repair one in-house. The dealer me called at Hyundai's request a couple weeks after I had talked to Hyundai (not just my dealer, which had gotten me no where on two occassions) about the issue. The repair took about a week and I had to sign a release document stating I authorized this voluntary adjustment and that I understood that they were reprogramming the sensor to make it more sensitive (ie., it now takes less weight to activate the airbag). Since getting the Elantra back my wife, who weighs about 115 lbs., has consistently been able to activate it while sitting in the passenger seat and I feel much safer knowing that her airbag will now fire if the need arises. Prior to the reprogramming my wife was only able to activate the airbag about 2/3 of the time.

dclurker

Thanks for your reply. Actually, there are two separate airbag issues with the 04-05 Elantras. Hyundai has announced an official recall to reprogram the driver's airbag, which didn't deploy when the IIHS performed its offset crash test. The other problem concerns the OCS (occupant classification system) which controls the front passenger's airbags. Many small adults in the 80 to 120-pound range are not triggering the sensors and thus are riding without benefit of any airbags. This problem is industry-wide, not just with Hyundai. My wife weighs 100 pounds and does not "turn on" the airbags. She is hesitant to even ride in our new Elantra. Thanks for sharing your passenger seat experience. Right now, I'm not sure what to do about the OCS problem. I'll probably file a complaint with NHTSA. Starting this September all cars must be built with the OCS. As more and more buyers discover this potentially fatal flaw, I'm hoping the public furor will force NHTSA to cancel the OCS or at least allow dealers to wire the passenger seat so that the airbags are always "on".

miamixt

You know when you turn on a Light Switch, and sometimes it Pops at you. Well that is exactly what my Blower Switch sounds like, and also during the first Day of Ownership, something was caught & vibrating in the Blower Motor.

backy

I think you need to find another dealer if your dealer's service department couldn't fix this. Might be easier than "going up the chain" in Hyundai.

robc1

I'm having problems with my 2000 elantra. When ever the temperature dips below 20 degrees ferenhiet its wont start, or is very difficult to start. I have replaced the fuel filter, ensured a full tank of gas, added dry gas (sea foam)and still no luck!
The CEL has not come on and other then jerking whan cold it runs fine. The car has 58k miles, manual trans. and I believes a 2.0 liter engine.
Prior to this problem starting was easy a tap of the gas pedal and she started, now its a combination of holding the pedal to the floor and a series of quick pedal pumps, almost acts if it were flooded (without heavy gas smell).
Someone told me it may be a problem with a fuel injector leaking off pressure. Any help would be appreciated...spring is along way off.
Thanks, Rob

backy

It may very well be flooded. I never touch the accelerator on my Elantras (or any fuel-injected car) when starting it, even at less than 20 F.

robc1

If I try starting w/o using the gas pedal it just cranks and cranks...until I have a dead battery.

backy

Is your car less than 5 years old? If so, take it into the dealer before the warranty expires.

jennyevd

Hi everyone! My daughter managed to lock my keys, yes both sets inside my car. Thankfully my cousin had a slim -jim and I was able to get the doors unlock BUT unfortunatly now my drivers side door handle will not work from the outside. It does lift when i pull it but nothing else happens. It seems as if I knocked the door handle spring or something loose with the slim jim. does anyone know how I can take the door panel off and fix this problem or does anyone have a repair manual to tell me how to do this. I

1racefan

I saw a manual for the Elantra at a local chain auto parts store last weekend. it seems like it was about $16. If I were in your shoes, I would probably contact a small body shop to and see what kind of an estimate they could give you for the repair. Right now, you are looking at about $20 for the book, cost of replacement part(s), the value of your time, and running the risk of breaking something else in the process (you would be amazed how easily some of the pastic pieces break when you are taking apart and reassembling an interior). My guess would be that if you contact a local, reputable body shop, you may get the repair done at a reasonable cost. My buddy had to get a part inside his door repaired one time on a Chrysler vehicle. Dealer wanted something like $200. He went to a small body shop down the street from his house, and he got the job done for $60 (part included).

5port

This is taken from Hyundai's on-line shop manual:

http://www.hmaservice.com/webtech/

The graphics never show up when I do this so if you need to see the graphics go direclty to the site, select car/year/model. Select "shop" on upper left. Then select "front door disassemble".

SERVICE MANUAL
Applies to: Elantra 2001-2003
GROUP
Body (Interior & Exterior) Hood, Doors & Trunk Lid


REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION
Remove the screw holding the inside door handle trim.


Remove the screws holding the door trim panel.


Insert a trim panel remover between the trim fasteners and the door trim panel to pry off.

Disconnect the wire connectors from the front door.


Remove the front speaker and the door vapor barrier.


Roll the door glass down and then remove the bolts holding the front door glass.


Remove the front door glass from the front door module.


Remove the front door window glass run.


Remove the rear channel from the front door.


Remove the bolts holding the outside handle, the latch, and the door lock actuator.

Disconnect the connectors from the front door module.



Remove the front door module.


Remove the outside rear view mirror.


Installation is the reverse of removal.

When installing the door vapor barrier, butyl tape should not be placed to block the door trim fastener holes.

glowkat

Hi,

I just bought a brand new '05 Elantra GLS 5 door. Just bought, as in I've had it for two weeks. Everything was going fine - really enjoyed it, was happy to be driving a nice new car again, and then Sunday, it started. The Rattle. There's something in the dashboard (it sounds like) rattling, and it's driving me insane. I've tried small things - closed the glove compartment door several times, taken everything out of the glove compartment, taken every loose piece of stuff that was in the rest of the car (and it wasn't much) out, held the door of the glove compartment shut, etc. Still there. It will usually start when the car is idling, and then reappear intermittently while driving. It doesn't do it as much when I'm on the highway - more when I'm driving around the city. It sounds like the glove compartment, but it does it when there's nothing in it. I was so happy, and now I'm starting to get annoyed - I know it's only been a few days with this, but this car is Two Weeks old!!! There's no way it should be rattling already. Stuff like this drives me nuts, and it's really taken away my enjoyment of my car. Has anyone had this? Am I just WAY too sensitive? Any help would be appreciated...

Thanks!

jlflemmons

Just relax. Open the sunglass holder in the overhead console and see if it changes. Open the glove box and drive with it open and see what happens. Narrow it down as best you can, then drop by the dealer and show them where you think it is coming from and what you have tried. There is always the chance that they have seen/heard the problem in other cars and already know what to do. I had this same thing happen on a $32K truck and could not figure it out. Went to the dealer and described the problem and the tech just said "Yep, seen that one before." and had it fixed in just a few minutes.

I have been into the dash on my Elantra before, and you would be amazed at the efforts to eliminate rattles. But there are a lot of parts in the dash of a car, and sometimes they just need a little extra attention.

Jim

5port

Jim is right, first relax. You will eventually get it fixed and enjoy your new car. The early cars in last generation Elantras had a similar noise. My car is an 01 GT. In cooler weather when I put the car in first gear and started to accel I would hear a rattle coming out from inside the center stack behind the radio. You may be hearing the same noise. It turned out to be two HVAC control cables that should not have been touching each other. Dealer seperated them and noise is gone. My dealer was very good in working with me to get the interior quiet. Dealer even lubed the back seat hinge that was squeaking over bumps. YMMV with your dealer.

Jim is right about the overhead glass holder. It is a typical source of noise.

glowkat

Thanks for the reassurance. You're right - I do need to relax. Knowing what little I do about cars, anything that requires digging behind the dashboard is a huge deal. I guess I just feared that I would be told to "live with it", which would drive me even crazier. I'll try the sunglass holder, and see what happens.

jennyevd

thank you thank you thank you!!!

dclurker

Got a call from NHTSA today. A couple of weeks ago I called them requesting the forms necessary to file a complaint about the airbags not being enabled when small adults ride in the front passenger seat. They took my pertinent information and said they would send the forms to me. I had intended to wait until I had a chance to ask my dealer what, if anything, they could do about the problem before deciding whether to send the complaint to NHTSA. Apparently I misunderstood, because I am now an official complainant. Oh well. So anyway, the guy today was very polite and professional. He went over all my information and asked how big my wife is (4'11", 100 pounds). He said NHTSA had received "a lot" of complaints about this issue and that he was inclined to start an investigation. So far, so good. But then he started backpedaling. He said that because of my wife's small stature, she might actually be safer riding with the passenger seat all the way back with the front airbag off (if that's so, why are the airbags supposed to be activated at 55 pounds? Why not 100 pounds or even higher?). I don't buy that argument. Then I asked him about the side airbag. Surely the size of the passenger has no effect on the efficacy of that airbag. His response was that he believed the side airbag was not controlled by the OCS (according to the 2005 Elantra owner's manual the OCS controls both the front and side passenger airbags). I told him that what I really wanted was for NHTSA to give permission to manufacturers to allow their dealers to do whatever's necessary to bypass the OCS if the owner is willing to sign a waiver accepting full responsibility. His response was "Oh no, we could never allow that." Again, let me state that the NHTSA guy was polite and professional. However, my impression is that NHTSA is going to try to stonewall this issue. I hope other affected owners will file complaints. Only if NHTSA is inundated will they be forced to do something about the flawed OCS.

jlflemmons

I mentioned this to my dealer this past weekend while they were doing a courtesy 3K oil change and inspection. The lead mechanic told me that if I wanted the corrective action installed in the passengers seat, I would have to submit a request to Hyundai. Hyundai would send a zone rep to the dealership to make the change to the seat/sensor. He also said that before the work would be performed, I would have to sign a liability release for injuries sustained by airbag deployment with a small passenger. The dealer also stated that UNDER NO CIRCUMSTANCES IS THE DEALER ALLOWED TO PERFORM THE MODIFICATION. All work must be performed by the Hyundai factory technician.

dclurker

That's exactly what I want done. But wouldn't Hyundai then be subjecting itself to penalties for breaking the law? After all, the Occupant Classification System is federally mandated. I would like to hear something official from NHTSA before allowing anyone to mess with my car. What I don't want is someone simply cutting the wire to the "Passenger Air Bag Off" light and then telling me the airbags are on. I love my Elantra but I hate the OCS!

jlflemmons

The modification does not defeat the system, it just lowers the weight at which the airbag is armed. One thing I have noticed on my '05 GT is that the weight required to enable the airbag is less than when new. Not by a lot, but probably 10-15 lbs. I was told by the dealer that this would happen as the seat covering loosened up a bit.

bsmith4

That's quite a range. I have had my '98 Elantra range between 22 and 29 mpg with my daily city/highway driving combination, depending on how much stop&start I'm doing. Are you doing more stop&start driving when the mpg is low? It can make a pretty big differance. Beyond that, check your spark plugs. I don't know if the 2000 Elantra uses conventional or platinum spark plugs, but my Elantra seemed to really eat up the conventional spark plugs (leading to bad gas mileage) until I switched to platinum.

forhan

After a journey of 4-5 miles, when I completely stop my car. I can hear one continues sound like "tak-tak-tak". Mostly it is from front side or from below the car. Is this normal with a new car. its a 2 weeks young 2005-elentra-hatchback-GLS car.

The noise goes on may be for around 30 minutes..

any help would be appreciated

mike91326

This is perfectly normal, as it’s the sound of the exhaust cooling down. Do you live where it's cold as you'll hear it more when it's new and cold.

kdf

Hi,

I just bought a 2005 Elantra GT hatchback on Saturday and I have two issues that give me some minor concern. I have driven the car very nicely and it has only 220 miles on it.

I live in New York and it is quite cold these days. When I start the car, I hear a bit of engine knock that goes away, apparently as the car engine becomes warm. Is this normal? I have not noticed this on many other cars, some but not the norm, and definitely not on brand new cars.

Second, the tach indicates that the engine tends to rev a little longer than what I had in my previous car, 99 VW GTI VR6. What I mean by this is that if I have the tach at 3K and I am about to shift up, when I take my foot off the gas/engage the clutch, the tach tends to take longer than on the VW to begin to go down. This is avoidable by shifting more rapidly but I'm wondering if this is just a Hyundai thing, a new Hyundai thing, or a My car thing.

Thanks for the advice

5port

First congrats on the new GT. I think the start-up noise you are hearing is called "valve tap noise". On most cars that use hydraulic valves a certain amount of valve tap noise at cold-start is not unusual. My GT has been doing it since 2001 (last about 30 secs).

The RPM hang between shifts is also an Elantra trait. My car did it in the beginning then stopped after a couple months. Most people have the throttle position sensor replaced and this cures it. Its covered by warranty so have the dealer look at it. Enjoy your new car.

backy

The RPM hang is not just an Elantra thing. It's common in other cars too, e.g. Corolla, as a pollution control device. But if it happens after the engine warms up, then there might be something amiss as you said.

jpryba

I recently had some brake work done on my 02 Elantra at a Columbus (Ohio) area Hyundai dealer's "express lube" location. The brake pedal felt nice and firm for about a week after, and then for the next week it started to feel mushy. I took it back to the dealership this morning and their regular Hyundai service department ended up having to replace a lot of parts (including new pads and turned rotors up front, plus calipers) because of the mistakes their express lube team made. The advisor told me that they also discovered too much fluid in the master cylinder and bled the system to lower it to a normal level.

The car seemed to be ok driving back home tonight, but driving around some more, I've noticed the pedal is getting a little mushy again. I notice it mainly when pressing the brake pedal to shift out of park into reverse or drive, and at stop lights it also feels a little bit softer than usual (almost sinking in slightly at times with normal pressure being applied).

So, I guess it's back to the dealer I go. (This time I think it's reasonable to ask for a free loaner as well instead of taking their shuttle.)

I was wondering if anyone else here has had something like this happen after a brake job. The last time I had brake issues (with another dealership), someone on here gave me a suggestion that turned out to be right on the money, which was that the rotors were turned incorrectly, causing a chattering/snapping noise from the front while braking at low speeds.

Is it just me, or does the Elantra seem to have brakes that are really hard to work on? I hope my car is the exception rather than the rule, though!

backy

I doubt it's just you. I expect it has more to do with the quality of the service techs at the dealership. I've found there are good ones and not-so-good ones, who can even mess up a simple repair. Who knows what they'd do on a brake job?

jlflemmons

"Is it just me, or does the Elantra seem to have brakes that are really hard to work on?"

Actually, the Elantra has a very simple brake system that is quite easy to work on. What would concern me is the soft pedal after the dealer noted that the master cylinder was overfilled. I would have the dealer determine if the wrong type of brake fluid was used.

It is not unusual for the brakes to feel a little soft right after replacing the pads as the new pads need a few miles to seat in and polish the "fur" off. This shouldn't take more than an average day of driving to accomplish.

jpryba

Here's basically what was on the invoice for the brake job earlier today to try to fix what the dealership's express lube place messed up before...

"Inspected brakes and found front pad hardware had gone crooked and was rubbing on rotor on both sides. Hardware got damaged, so installed new front pads both sides. Also on rears found right rear caliper had a caliper slide bolt that was crossthreaded. Removed slide and retapped so bolt will go in correctly. Lubed caliper slides, both sides on rear. Found master cylinder to be overfull, so took some of the fluid out. Also opened bleeders up to make sure no air in system. Test drove vehicle after repairs -- brakes working as designed at this time."

The part numbers on the invoice (one for front brake pads, the other for a brake caliper slide) match what is on the Hyundai parts website, at least.

Is there anything else the dealership should check and/or replace based on what you have read here?

jpryba

Is it also normal for the pedal to sink almost all the way to the floor when I press it in order to shift from Park into Reverse or Drive?

When I had my improperly turned rotor fiasco about a year and a half ago, the brakes were really soft for about a week before I started to hear a snap snap snap noise while braking at low speeds. I wonder if something similar will happen with my latest brake job...

Anyway, I'll ask the dealership about the type of brake fluid that was used. Maybe they stuck DOT 5 in the system by accident when DOT 3 is what my car needs.

dclurker

The owner's manual of my 2005 Elantra shows the proper hot level of the ATF to be on the high side of the "V" indent on the dipstick, yet the dipstick itself has "HOT" written on the low side of the V. Anybody know which level is correct? Thanks.

jpryba

I took my car back to the dealership today to have them look at the soft brake pedal. According to my service advisor, the mechanics took everything apart and put it all back together again. They also totally bled the system. The brakes seem to work ok, but the pedal is still soft when I shift out of park (it can be easily pushed to the floor), and it's still a bit spongy when I'm at a stoplight and I have my foot resting against the brake pedal.

I noticed when I stopped to get some gas and turned off the car that I was able to push the brake pedal about 10 times and it didn't get firm. I noticed when I got home that it would firm up after pushing the pedal just a few times, though (after turning off the car, of course). Isn't firmness after a few strokes of the pedal normal no matter what? 10 or more times seems a bit fishy to me...

I asked my service advisor about the possibility of the master cylinder or some other part going bad, but she said there was no way to see if it was going bad other than checking it for leaks.

I'm going to try going to another Hyundai dealership tomorrow evening and get another opinion. I'm hoping they can give me a quick idea of what's up by just coming out to the car for a moment and pressing the pedal a few times (once for shifting out of park, another for resting on the pedal while stopped, etc). I'm also going to see if they'll let me check out another Elantra to make sure it's not just my mind playing tricks on me. Then again, I've had my Elantra for 2 1/2 years, so I think I know when something is wrong...

Does anyone have an idea what's happening, then? Someone on here was able to solve a brake-related problem I had about a year and a half ago, so I'm sure I'll be able to get a solution on here this time as well.

oscar5740

I'm taking mine in to have the brakes looked at this Friday. My brakes have seemed soft for a while now, but I recently had my car in to have the state inspection done, and I was told that my rear pads barely passed. I had the fronts and rears done at 27K, and thought it was abnormal then to have to do the rears at just 27K. After the inspection, I'm thinking there's a problem. It is not normal to go through rear pads in one year's time, or 18K miles.
When I made the appointment, the dealer told me that it could be the master cylinder, or the rear calipers might be sticking. We'll see, I'll let you know what I hear...

5port

It is not normal to go through rear pads in one year's time, or 18K miles.
When I made the appointment, the dealer told me that it could be the master cylinder, or the rear calipers might be sticking.
------------------------------------------

Your emergency brake cable may be over adjusted (too tight). That would also cause early rear pad wear.

jlflemmons

No way, no how does a brake pedal go to the floor if all is okay. Either master cylinder is leaking down (which you cannot see externally)or a line has a balloon (not likely at such a young age, unless damaged)

Now, when the engine speeds up just a bit above idle you will feel the pedal go down just a wee bit, but that is because as the engine comes off idle it develops more vacuum, and the power brake booster runs off vacuum. So, more vacuum, more boost.

I cannot speak to rear discs on an Elantra as my previous was drums, but if all is working well, rear discs should outlast the fronts by a good bit as most of the braking is done with the fronts, not the rears.

And as I have stated before, the Elantra has excellent brakes and I have seen only one issue, which is common. If the brakes get really hot from high speed stops, the thin metal anti chatter shim on the back of the pad will come off and get into the caliper. The metal is too soft to hurt anything, but it does make for some interesting noises!

duckied

Hello. I was driving on a highway a couple of weeks ago in my four-month old '05 Elantra GLS, and suddenly a rock flew up and make a small dent/crack in the windshield? Is this problem covered under the Elantra's warranty? Thanks. Otherwise, my Elantra has been doing great and looks brand new at 4500 miles. No rattles, problems, or paint scratches.

backy

No, a rock hitting your car's windshield is not a defect in the car, it is an accident. It should be covered under your auto insurance policy--hopefully it has a zero deductible for glass repair/replacement. Some small dents/cracks can be repaired rather than replacing the windshield.

5port

Had the same thing happen to me last year. Was driving to a company meeting at a local college and whack! Called State Farm that morning and they sent me to a glass installation place that does repairs. By 5:00pm that day the star in my window was gone and I paid nothing. State Farm even called me at the glass place to see if I was happy.

Cost to me would have been $50 if I did not have glass coverage on my insurance.

oscar5740

First, Thanks for all the advice and suggestions on the problem with my brakes. I never considered the parking brake as a possible cause, but that does make alot of sense.

When I picked it up from the dealer today, they told me my brakes "were operating exactly as designed". I asked if it was normal for my car to go through rear brakes twice as fast as front brakes to the tune of 1 year and 18K miles. I told the tech that I barely got 27K miles of life out of the original pads, and he responded that 27K miles on rear pads was "very good longevity" for rear pads. His suggestion was that I must not have used Hyundai genuine brake pads, and used that as his explanation. If that's "exactly as designed" then I want my Subaru back.
I have never owned a car that went through rear pads faster than fronts. Am I expecting too much or being unreasonable? Should I get a second opinion?

backy

Well, I once owned a '91 Caravan that ate up its OEM rear brake pads in 30k. So it can happen. But my '01 Elantra is at 32k miles and the rear brakes (and front brakes) are still strong. I am pretty easy on brakes, but I also do a lot of short-distance, stop-and-go driving so I probably uses the brakes more than most people who have driven 32k.

iceman4

here some advise on your concern:

1.Engine noise (hyundai 2.0 engines installed on elantra and tiburon have some sort on engine/lifter noise.As long the noise goes away when the engine is warm that's okay. But if you feel and hear the noise is coming from the bottom end of the engine then you should be concern).

2RMP drpos too slow betwenn shifts (go to any Hyundai dealership and have the reprogram your ecm per TSB 04-36-011 - reduce delay in rpm shifts)

bartman6

Sounds like the injector system is losing pressure overnight. Try putting the key in the "ON" position for 5 full seconds before cranking. This should allow the fuel pump to build the pressure back to normal. With fuel injection, you should never have to tap the pedal to start the car. The remote starters that are common today do not tap the pedal. The car's computer controlls the injectors allowing just the right amount of gas into the cylinders. Hope this works. If this works, then maybe the pressure regulator is bad.

gaelsguy1

03 Elantra GT Auto. I always leave the headlight switch in the ON position. Lately I have had a couple of situations. I insert the key and notice that the dashboard light(s) don't come on; neither do the running lights which they usually do. After starting the engine, the headlights come on but not the rear running lights. By removing the key and re-starting, I usually get all lights working. The other night when I shut down the car, the lights would not automatically turn off (after opening the driver's door). This included the headlights. Anyone have a problem like this? I will eventually see the dealer but he is about 25 miles away so I keep trips to a minimum.

gaelsguy1

I think I found my electrical problem. It has to do with the ignition lock assembly. There appears to be a micro switch that gets acuated when the key is inserted. Mine fails to do so at times but if I lift the key/lock up a little after inserting the key and before starting the car, ta-da, all is well. I shall be seeing the good folk at J. Hall Hyundai someday soon. Glad I could be of help

jimbeaumi

My '01 GLS is about to roll 54K miles with original equipment brakes and pads. On the last service, however, it was noted that my rear pads would need to replaced "soon". Brake performance has been consistently good on this car, after 3.5 years and several winters. I don't recall ever having brakes last this long.

vkxmai

Hello,

I have a 1997 Elantra (standard transmission) with just over 100k miles. This winter I noticed a problem where when I would turn the key, the engine would sound like it was turning over to start but it would make the normal sound, then click, instead of coming to life. I have a new clutch, timing belt and spark plugs/wires--so those are pretty much ruled out. It has warmed up a bit here and the problem still comes and goes.

Sometimes it is four tries before the car will start and sometimes it is 10. The dealer and a mechanic have looked at it and found nothing. Is this a common problem?