By accessing this website, you acknowledge that Edmunds and its third party business partners may use cookies, pixels, and similar technologies to collect information about you and your interactions with the website as described in our
Privacy Statement, and you agree that your use of the website is subject to our
Visitor Agreement.
Comments
1. Lots of complaints about AM radio--does this mean they don't come with FM radio?
2.I read that they don't standardly come with ABS--which my mechanic insists is important. What do others think? I drive in Oregon rain.
3. I found a couple of folks who said they have gotten over 100,000 miles but not many (as compared to Toyotas where it is pretty common) Is this related to the major upgrading of car in 03--such that not many of the newer models have been driven long enough to know how they will hold out?
4. Toyota dealer claims he sees lots of Hyundais on tow trucks...just slamming or accurate?
5. They did not seem to want to bargain for a sale--Hyundai really was willing to. They share a building and are owned by the same person...what is this about?
6.Sister's CAD (computer assisted design) teacher says Hyundais are designed so that parts don't fit well--too much tolerance (or some such) and will rattle themselves to death. Is this the old hyundai and/or the new?
I thank each and every person who tries to give me input--I usually take a couple months to research a car purchase and this need to do something quickly is driving me batty. Ruth
thats it-
One final observation. Remember that 'worthless' appearance & Protection Package for $1495. While I cant see paying for it, the Gloss Treatment & the 3M Wheel Well Moldings along with the Pin Stripes, does make a "Plain Jane" Elantra look nicer .
They do come with FM and a tape deck or CD (optional). I have not had any problem with the AM in either of my Elantra's.
2.I read that they don't standardly come with ABS--which my mechanic insists is important. What do others think? I drive in Oregon rain.
Your choice, but I prefer not to have ABS. It isn't that hard to find them both with or without.
3. I found a couple of folks who said they have gotten over 100,000 miles but not many (as compared to Toyotas where it is pretty common) Is this related to the major upgrading of car in 03--such that not many of the newer models have been driven long enough to know how they will hold out?
The Elantra was redesigned in '01 and has gotten very good reliability reviews ever since.
4. Toyota dealer claims he sees lots of Hyundais on tow trucks...just slamming or accurate?
He is slamming. The local dealer sees fewer Hyundai issues than Toyota or Honda, and they sell all three.
5. They did not seem to want to bargain for a sale--Hyundai really was willing to. They share a building and are owned by the same person...what is this about?
Toyota marketing ego. "We cost more, therefore we are better"
6.Sister's CAD (computer assisted design) teacher says Hyundais are designed so that parts don't fit well--too much tolerance (or some such) and will rattle themselves to death. Is this the old hyundai and/or the new?
Put 42K miles on an '02 in 2 1/2 years with no rattles or squeaks. The '05 GT is just as tight. Ask people who actually own the model, not those who espouse second hand information.
I thank each and every person who tries to give me input--I usually take a couple months to research a car purchase and this need to do something quickly is driving me batty. Ruth
A few other tidbits on that subject: When I bought my '01 GLS, the dealer invited me in for a free 1 month/1000 mile check. I know that kind of check used to be fairly common, but it isn't in the scheduled maintenance. Anyway, at that time the dealer did change the oil and checked a few other things. I figured it was free, so why not? But no such checkup on my '04 GT, even though I bought it at the same dealer. Also, when I bought my '01 GLS, the dealer invited me to an open house in their service department. I went and asked the service manager if it was OK to change oil every 6 months/3750 miles vs. the 3 months/3000 miles mentioned in the owner's manual, even though some of the driving I do qualifies as "severe service." He said, that was fine. You can bet I documented that discussion!
It could also occur in engines running rich, but I think you would see that reflected in poor performance and/or gas mileage. Changing the grade of gasoline will not necessarily help, but changing brand might.
Scott~
My dealer has their own maintenance schedule for the Elantra, too--and they have it on glossy cards etc. I did look at one once and chucked it. It's full of "services" that are unnecessary and at least in one case (throttle body cleaning) recommended against by Hyundai.
2005 Owner's Handbook Supplement
2005 Owner's Handbook & Warranty Information
Your Elantra at a Glance (Glossy 3 Sheet Fold out Pamphlet)
Roadside Assistance Owner's Guide ( 3 sheet Fold Out Pamphlet)
Maintenance Log Elantra
Value Delivery System 4 Page Checklist (Customer should only have last page)
Lemon Law/ Emissions Book for all 50 States
Michelin Tire Warranty Book
Hyundai Collision Replacement Parts Information (3 Page Fold out Pamphlet)
3 Individual Cards ( the exact size of the Plastic holder for the Manual)
1) Accessories Card: Make it fit your style $ 10 Coupon
2) *Maintenance Card:* ©2004 Meredith Corporation & Hyundai Motor America
3) Hyundai Protection Plan
If service is not in the maintenance schedule in the owner's manual, they can't deny warranty claims if you don't do it. Period. Maybe your dealer should get a guest shot on that show "Scare Tactics."
Then when I went to pay the bill, the total was $19.54. Seems they had a special for their customers to compensate for any inconvenience the construction may have caused. Did I mention that the Toyota service department is only one block from the Hyundai construction?
That, my friends, is how you keep good CSI scores.
Which is weird because the dealership has free coffee (non-starbucks) doughnuts, and soft drinks in the waiting area. An area that has nice chairs and a big screen TV. It will be interesting to see if the new Hyundai showroom has the same amenities as its "upscale" counterparts.
You are also getting a lamp rated for 135 hours of use, or about one year average.
The standard H7 halogen is good for about three years.
This may be more than you wanted to know, but I thought it important to note that not all headlamps for our beloved Elantra's are the same.
Jim
What do you think about this?
Most if not all of us have seen gas mileage go up after 2-3K miles, sometimes as much as 4K. My '02 w/ 5spd was knocking off 33-35 mpg with the ac on when I traded for an '05 GT w/ auto. The GT is up around 27mpg in town with the AC running full blast. It has been a little warm down here in Texas.
I called the dealer I bought the car from, and they (the person in repair/ maintenance I talked to on the phone) at first seemed reluctant to replace the window under warranty. As I understand it, the window is laminated (that’s how they get the heating element in the glass) and if the window is pinched while being installed, this can create a flaw that may not show up right away. I mentioned this to him and assured him that the window had not been hit, as he’ll be able to see when I bring it in.
The crack does a half spiral and then runs straight down—sort of like a question mark. No nick or anything from any impact. They gave me the impression that if the window is as I described, they’d replace it under warranty.
Q1. I’d like to know if I’ve got this right about potential defects in laminated glass.
I haven’t talked to a zone rep (I assume there is such), because the dealer so far seems amenable to taking care of it under warranty.
Q2. I’d like some suggestions on how to increase the chances that the dealer will do the replacement under warranty and also what to do if he balks.
They said they’d call me back Thursday, July 21, to confirm that the glass has come in. If so, I plan to drive up on Friday. I believe that some glass shop in Reno will be doing the work.
Note that the nearest Hyundai dealer is 175 miles away and that the dealer I bought the car from is 200 miles away. So, I don’t want to make a 400-mile round trip and be left high and dry.
Q3. Should I talk to a zone rep before I make the trip? If the dealer balks, is talking to a zone rep while I’m in Reno likely to make any difference?
Q4. If they refuse to do the work under warranty, should I pay them to do the work and then take them to task and/or court afterwards or drive home empty-handed and take them to task when I get home?
I asked them if they’d give me a loaner while they were working on the car. They said that required an extended warranty, which I currently don’t have.
Thanks,
John
My guess is the dealer doesn't want to commit until he sees the window, which is wise on his part. If you come in with a good attitude and a car that has obviously been taken care of (clean without a sampling of every fast food joint in the adjacent counties laying about the cabin) they will probably be more willing to handle this.
Don't forget that when the Ford Escape first came out, many of the rear windows would fall out on the ground when the doors were slammed. Seems someone didn't follow the instructions on the cure time of the window adhesive. Just to say that mistakes do happen, and yours may be one of them. Good luck.
As of late, I've discovered that I can get similar belt noise to show up if I do any of the following:
1) turn on the a/c -- If the windows are rolled down when I do this, I'm able to hear a chattering/chirp noise from up front that goes away as soon as I turn the a/c off.
2) turn the steering wheel all the way in either direction and hold -- a similar noise occurs, this time sounding a bit more like a fast chirping than a chattering noise.
3) roll down the windows -- I'll hear a slight noise high-pitched noise coming from the belts that goes away when I let go of the window switches. If I press the switch after the window is rolled down, you can still hear the noise. It goes away when I let go of the button. This particular noise is very faint (and thankfully not annoying) when compared to the other chattering/chirping noises.
I was told before that my belts are ok, but that was a few months ago when the noise wouldn't occur when running the a/c. I highly doubt that 2 or 3 of my accessory belts are going bad at the same time, though, so maybe one of the pulleys is going bad instead. (Looking at an engine diagram from the Hyundai WebTech site, it appears some of the belts wind around the same pulley or two.)
One other clue -- once or twice this past winter I would hear a slight squeal coming from under the hood when first driving in the mornings, but otherwise there would be no other noises.
The car seems to be performing just fine otherwise, but the noises are getting to me -- and they can be downright embarrassing as well if other people are around to hear them.
So... do I just need new belts (wear and tear) or do you think it's something else that's hopefully under warranty (pulley, tensioner, alternator, steering pump)? Or maybe it's both with my luck. Any ideas before I take in the car on Saturday morning would be most appreciated
Although they won’t provide a loaner while the work is being done, I’ll bet they’ll give me a short ride (otherwise a long, hot walk) to my favorite restaurant and pick me up when the car is ready. After all, they surely give people rides to their job, if they need one. I haven’t asked for this, but I will.
While I was out, I got a call from their parts department, asking me to call. I hope this is just a duplicate call, but I will call them back before I leave for Reno.
Over time the noise did go away by itself. My feeling is that its the emissions system. Seems there is a valve or pump that (at idle) would make just the noise you described. hard to say how long it took to go away but after about 2 years I noticed it was gone. Hope this helps.
Jim
Technical Service
Bulletin
Subject
Group
Number
Date
Model
CIRCULATE TO: [ ] GENERAL MANAGER
[X] SERVICE ADVISOR [X] SERVICE MANAGER [X] WARRANTY MGR [ ] SALES MANAGER
[X] PARTS MANAGER [X] TECHNICIAN
ENGINE MECHANICAL
05-20-004
JULY, 2005
ALL MODELS
SULFUR ODOR FROM EXHAUST
DESCRIPTION:
Some vehicles may experience a sulfur-like or “rotten egg” odor coming from the
exhaust. The amount of sulfur in the fuel sold in California is regulated; however, the
sulfur content in gasoline sold in other states can be significantly higher. Sulfur content
can differ considerably between gasoline brands and locations. Sulfur is a natural
component of crude oil from which gasoline is refined. The amount of sulfur in gasoline
can be reduced through the refining process.
VEHICLES AFFECTED:
• All Models
REPAIR PROCEDURE:
A sulfur odor coming from the exhaust does not necessarily indicate there is an issue
with the engine’s running condition. A sulfur odor most likely is related to the fuel;
however, if an excessive sulfur odor is determined, perform the following steps:
1. MIL ON - Check for diagnostic trouble codes (DTCs) and repair as necessary.
2. If no DTCs are found, recommend the customer to try an alternate gasoline source.
Replacement of the oxygen sensors, air/fuel ratio sensors or catalytic converters will not
reduce the odor and will not be considered warrantable.
WARRANTY INFORMATION:
Normal warranty procedures apply, only if the concern is found to be a defect in factory
workmanship or materials.
Courtesy Hyundai America Technical Service.
I thought the heating element on the rear window was inside the glass, between two laminated layers. I knew I had a crack because I could feel it on both sides. No, on the inside I was feeling part of the heating element. All I had was a big scratch on the outside. Probably some grit got caught by the rear wiper.
The dealer buffed out the scratch, changed my oil and oil filter and checked lubrication—(I’m not aware of receiving a $10 coupon—which proves nothing. What did it come with?)—and modified the software that controls the air bags. I could have done all that at home, except the software modification, which I thought was not urgent.
Go ahead and laugh. I’ve crawled under a rock and can’t hear you anyway.
Fortunately, a friend joined me and we had some good conversation, enjoyed the very scenic route, and had a fine lunch in Reno.
Which is a bit of mechanical trivia for everybody: A car with drum brakes in the rear will move backward with the brake on, but not forward. Drum brakes do not contact the drum with the correct rotational angled action when rotated backwards. They lose about 80-90% of their effectiveness in the reverse direction.
Never did let him live that one down ...
Thanks in advance!!
It’s also probably good that I did the first scheduled maintenance with them, but obviously I want to do as much as possible in town. When and if the next problem arises, I’ll try to make certain that it is what I think it is.
I have a 2002 Hyundai Elantra with 27K miles on it. I am noticing that the car vibrates (I can hear the door panels making noise) a lot when going at 80 mph. What could be the possible causes? I have 2 new tires on the front while the back tires are still the old ones. Can that be a cause?
Thanks.
Also I logged on to webtech but could find no instructions or part numbers for the filter.
Am I missing something?
Thanks.
How do I know which cat converter I have? I called up to price check, and the guy on the phone says to me it's either "California something or other", or not... also, it's either inside the manifold (front), or it isn't (rear)... any ideas? :confuse: