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Comments
Niels
Have you tried an "emissions beater" additive? It goes in the gas tank.Not sure of the brand... I used it on my 98 accent, and my check engine light went off for 4 days.... passed inspection... the cel went back on the next day!! Be sure to give a few days for the computer to "clear out" any old emissions data... bottle cost me $4 ... worth a shot i guess... good luck
I looked around on Hyundai Webtech, and there is a link for training. I looked at it and there was a training presentation that covered, among other things, tire vibration. The training covers Radial Force Variation, the balancing problem that is not handled by normal wheel balance machines and instructs service departments to use a Hunter balancing machine (even saying that if the dealer doesn't have one, they should send the car out to a shop that does).
Here is a link to the training presentation. Click on NVH, and Tire/Wheel NVH to see what they instruct their dealers to do about tire vibration. This shows Hyundai is aware of the problem and is instructing their dealers to fix it.
Print this out and take it with you to the dealer. Armed with this, I'm sure you can have any wheel balance problems you may encounter solved at the dealer.... WITHOUT paying anything!
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I was just wondering how your latest experience with Hyundai turned out.
Good luck!
Hopefully you can have better luck with the tire company. As for the Kumho tires, I had them on my old Accent and loved them, I prefer them, especially for the added traction and manuevering.
The clutch pedal feels loose, i.e. very little resistance. When the tow truck called by Hyundai Roadside Assistance arrived at my house, he jiggled something and the car started, but the gears would only grind, not shift. (I told him, "Please don't do that too often!") He took the car away to the nearest Hyundai dealer.
Any ideas on what the problem might be? I assume something broke since it was a sudden malfunction--at least I hope something broke so it's covered under warranty!
BTW, the experience with Hyundai Roadside Assistance was excellent, very responsive, professional, and courteous in all aspects. A great benefit. It was the same story the other two times I have called them--to open up my '04 GT after DW locked the keys in the car. Also, they gave me instructions on how to get reimbursed for the towing charge.
The free feeling brake pedal is the tip-off. I think the clutch master cylinder has failed. The clutch pedal is directly connected to the master cylinder and that drives brake fluid to the slave cylinder that moves the clutch.
The grinding when you try to get into a gear is caused by the fact that the clutch is not moving (not seperating from the fly wheel) so you are forcing the stick into gears. I've had car wash bozos do this while cleaning the interior with the engine running and leaning on the stick :mad:
Certainly not your typical clutch failure with spinning revs and car goes nowhere. Sorry to hear this happened. Sounds like Hyundai emergency service works well. I just bought a prepaid type cell phone for just that reason. Let us know how this turns out.
Lots of things it could be, but clutches are very simple animals and generally not too difficult to diagnose when it is sitting in front of you.
Jim
Oh well, the dealer was backed up today so looks like they won't get to it until Monday. Good timing I guess in that I left for Sydney today, so my family can get by on one car for awhile. The service writer did say they'd get my wife a loaner car Monday if necessary--they were out today.
I managed to get rid of my Elantra shimmy once and for all -- I traded mine in and leased a new 06 Sonata! I figure in 3 years I'll look at the new Elantra and see if it has had the same shimmy issues the current one has. (BTW, does anyone with a 96-00 Elantra have shimmy issues? We don't hear about those too much around here. It seems like it all started with the 01 redesign.)
Spent the morning helping a friend out. '98 Chrysler Concorde on its original brakes, at least what was left of them. Using a floor jack and stands we did rotors, pads, and both motor mounts in less than three hours. If anyone is wondering, the drivers side motor mount isn't easy. Had the wheel off anyway, so I used a 36" extension through the wheel well to get to the bolts. yee hah.
Also, is Hyundai supposed to pay for this? Will I have to let the dealer try to fix it first?
Thanks for any help.
I had a talk with my son, who is the other driver of the car (since I know there has never been a "heavy hit" to the clutch while I have driven it). He did admit that when he first started driving about a year ago, he had a few rough shifts. Would that be enough to cause a failure like this?
I am not too happy about this, and have some other questions for you folks who know more about such things than I do:
* Is it common for a clutch pressure plate to "break into pieces" without any defect? I have owned many stick-shift cars and in only two have I had to replace a pressure plate--both were due to wear. Up until I replaced the part, the cars drove fine, but the shifter and clutch action wasn't as nice as when new.
* Does $1250 seem reasonable for this kind of repair? I would have thought I could get an entire new transmission (rebuilt anyway) for that kind of money. The last clutch pressure plate I had replaced (granted this was around 1990) cost $400. $1250 seems like a lot. It includes $80 for machining the flywheel. I am out of town so I haven't seen the details of the repair order; my family needs the car back so I told the dealer to go ahead and fix it.
I appreciate your input because it will help me decide whether to appeal this "up the chain" at Hyundai.
Needless to say, if I ever get another Hyundai (which is much less likely than it was yesterday), it will have an automatic transmission, which is covered for 10 years/100k miles.
I would find out exactly what all was done. Then I would call a local transmission shop (like a Cottman or some place that just does transmission/clutch work), and ask them what they would charge to do this on a 2001 Hyundai Elantra.
My boss has a car (not a Hyundai) that has an automatic tranny. Last year, he was having a problem with it - it was hesitating a little upon take off. He took it to the dealer (car was out of warranty). The dealer drove it, and said it would be a minimum of $500 for them to tear into the tranny and diagnose it, not to mention additional costs for actually fixing whatever the problem is. He took it to a transmission specialist, they drove it, diagnosed it, and $60 later it was fixed.
Now in your case, obviously taking it to the dealer was the correct thing to do - since it is still warrantied. I just wonder if after they diagnosed the problem at the dealer and called you with the estimate, what they would have charged you if you were to have told them that you didn't want them to fix it because you were going to have it towed to a tranny shop because you thought they were too high??
I will say that the Hyundai dealer's service department (and I am referring to both of the ones that are local to me) have also kind of caused me to shy away from purchasing another one in the future. I love our Elantra, but some of the things I have seen and been told at the service departments scare me.
The article also said that most dealers adjust the pressures back down when they prep them for sale on their lots, but some dealers don't. The article said that sometimes dealers only adjust the pressures back down on 2 or 3 tires (because they get distracted and forget to do a tire or 2). I guess people have test driven cars in the past, and the handling or steering feel has been weird, so they checked and one front tire would be at 32, and another at 45. Once both tires were put on equal PSIs, back where they should be, all was normal.
And as a statement of fact, FWD clutches and transaxles will not stand up to abuse the way a RWD system will. Just the nature of the beast. With RWD, agressive action on the part of the driver will spin the wheels out back. On a FWD, the weight of the engine tries to prevent that from happening. All those load forces have to go somewhere.
With all of the parts that you just mentioned that need to be removed when changing a clutch on a FWD, would it not be smart to go ahead and have a new CV joint put in at the same time (assuming it were a high mileage car - I'm not referring to backy's)? Seems like with a CV joint being such a high stress item, that if you had a FWD with over say 80 or 90K miles and you were needing a new clutch that you could probably just pay for the cost of the CV joint, and not really any labor since all of the other stuff had to come out anyway.
Oh, that's right. Dad said he would disown me. He had spent over 30 years in the business and was a bit jaded.
I had a 2003 accent and now a 2005 elantra GT. Both cars seem to bottom on relatively small bumps.
Could I put high profile tires on when time to replace.
So far this is the only problem with my GT. I was hoping that the "performance suspension that is included in the GT model would prevent this.
http://tinyurl.com/9br9q
Yes. My first car was a Fiat 128 5spd. About one month after buying it used the clutch went. The repair shop showed me how the fingers on the pressure plate just shattered. Repair price in the late 70's dollars was about what $1200 in todays dollars.
After that I've always treated clutches with respect and got long service. Your right, now that he knows it should last.
shimmy problem with my car when braking.... I told the service manager, he looked
and took some readings from my front 2 rotors and swapped them out with brand new
ones with no questions asked.
Car is a 2005 Elantra GLS hatchback with 22k miles and my dealer is excellent!
He said if I wanted to.. I could do all the maintenance myself like changing oil, spark plugs , transmission fluid, etc... but to make sure I kept the receipts for the items
and document my repairs/replacement and mileage. And his dealership would honor any
warranty issues if I had any. He just made the point to follow the maintenance
schedule religiously to keep the car humming along, and to maintain the warranty
coverage.
When I heard that, then I knew I could trust my dealer to do the right thing. I have been
going to his dealership ever since to do my maintenance since I know they were
trustworthy and would not bend me over wth unecessary work.
lamond
lamond13@cox.net
My first car was a '60 Falcon, 3 speed on the column shift. Something like 85 HP. Car was reved out at 60 MPH. But being 16 years old, I wanted to burn rubber, like my friends could. Simple with the stick, just rev the engine & pop the clutch. Never thought about the stress to the car, just that it was cool to spin the tires. Maybe you'll find out about a similar story a few years from now when your son is older & ready to tell you, if that is what happened.
But, yes, I'd to go as far as reasonalble to see if Hyundai will pay for the repair.
A good example is the Fiero which had very long cables. The adjustment could be off less than a 1/4" and that little sucker would not shift.
And yes, it can also make it difficult if not impossible to engage one or more gears, like first.