Hyundai Elantra Maintenance and Repair

1404143454668

Comments

  • nodulenodule Member Posts: 118
    hi,

    I have a 2005 Elantra GLS sedan that has 12850 mils. So far
    I love the car. However, since day 1, the engine when accelerating has a mild pinging sound, as if im using low quality gas or something. I tried different brands of gas
    with no change...still pinging sound. I recently change over
    to the new Castrol GTX Start UP motor oil...still pinging.

    First, do others here have this same sound?
    Second, and thoughts on what is causing it?
  • 1racefan1racefan Member Posts: 932
    I have never heard pinging in an Elantra. Have you taken it in to the dealer?

    The thing that first comes to mind is that maybe the air/fuel mixture isn't correct, and a computer could be reprogrammed to fix this - however that is only a guess.
  • doohickiedoohickie Member Posts: 949
    Yeah... check with the dealer, and see if there is a reprogramming they can do. Also, have them check the computer for any codes. (I'm not sure they all result in a Check Engine Light.)
  • spmrebelspmrebel Member Posts: 130
    I hear pinging sound in my 05 Elantra GT from time to time. I tend to notice it primarily on upgrades and under slight acceleration. I have attributed to the quality of gas more than anything - though I haven't tried anything beyond the normal 87 octane (ie. unleaded). I will give unleaded+ or super unleaded the next time I fill up and see if the sound diminishes or goes away. I had an 01 Elantra GLS and I had the same slight pinging in that car.
  • 5port5port Member Posts: 395
    Tip-in ping is considered OK by the industry. Thats when you hear a pinging sound at very first application of throttle. Maybe it will last 1 to 2 seconds. If you are hearing a sustained pinging sound as you accelerate something is wrong. In some parts of the US the standard for regular gas is 85 octane. If thats the case where you live go to the next level of gas. The fact that you heard pinging in your 05 AND your 01 Elantra points to gas. I drive an 01 GT, it has never pinged since new (NY...Amoco 87). A regular diet of Chevron Techron every other oil change will also help to keep down carbon deposits and fight pinging.
  • jkobbjkobb Member Posts: 51
    I have a 05 Elantra GLS and have not heardany pinging from day one , and it now has 9500 miles . I live in Northern Indiana and use regular 87 octane . I buy basically whoever has the best price and don`t pay too much attention to brand name . I would put in a 87 octane gas and if it didn`t clear up I would have the dealer check it out. I don`t know if the timing may be off or something .
  • 1racefan1racefan Member Posts: 932
    Just as a follow up to my earlier post....

    Mitsubishi dealership called Friday and said that they had taken the front struts out earlier in the week, disassembled them, and then reinstalled them on the car. They said that everything else in the front end looked good. They went on to say that after reinstalling the struts, that the car has not made any uncharacteristic noises since. Maybe something had shifted or wasn't tight enough???

    They told me Friday that they wanted to keep the car parked in a certain position (they didn't specify)over the weekend, and then drive it today to see if the noises were back. I haven't heard from them yet, but will let you know how this all turns out.

    Again, sorry for posting off of the Elantra topic here, but thanks for your earlier suggestion.
  • jasminenhjasminenh Member Posts: 2
    We purchased a 2005 Elantra GT 5 dr in May. It has 13,000 miles on it. We have been plagued by a vibration on the highway, despite having the rotors ground, the tired rotated, and a 4 wheel balance and alignment at the dealership last week, after being told we "must have hit a pothole". The latest problem is the check engine light coming on. It came on last week, and after having the car for several HOURS, they came out and said the problem was that a cap had popped off a hose. Guess what light is on again tonight? We have checked the gas cap, as that did happen when we first bought the car. It's very frustrating to have to take time off work *yet again* to have them look at this. Should I insist that they run a code scan when I go back in? I have owned many new cars, and this is the worst experience I have ever had!
  • backybacky Member Posts: 18,949
    One idea is to ask them to swap tires/wheels off another Elantra and see if that solves the vibration--then at least you would know it's in the wheels/tires. Since their first idea on the check engine light was wrong, I think it would be reasonable to ask them to run the scan. Another reason for the check engine light is a bad O2 sensor--a scan would show that. The rear O2 sensor on my '01 Elantra failed at 16k miles. It took the dealer less than an hour to fix it, including diagnostics.

    If this is the worst experience you have ever had with a new car, you have had great luck with your new cars! Anyway, it seems to me the main problem you have is with your dealer's service department. Have you talked to the service manager?
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Member Posts: 2,242
    Anybody check the tire pressure? Also, check for radial runout. This should be measured with a gauge, but if it is really bad you can see it on the balancing machine when the tire is rotating slowly. Backy is right about checking with another set of tires. That would eliminate the rest of the car. Check engine lights are not that hard to fix if you have a technician/mechanic who can read the codes correctly. The diagnostic tool will tell you where to look, but it is up to the tech to analyze the data he is given. I had a vehicle where the throttle position sensor was swapped three times before the lead mechanic stepped in and showed the guy doing the work that there was a loose pin in the harness causing a bad connection and the computer to flag a "bad TPS".

    These are really good cars. Don't let a poor diagnosis sour you on the vehicle.

    Jim
  • kcd999kcd999 Member Posts: 1
    Jim, I have an additional question concerning removing the lens -

    I removed three screws but there is a fourth rubber type gasket holding in the lens - I am not sure what this is and do not damage the lens by using force on this - is it a screw cover ?

    Thanks for your help
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Member Posts: 2,242
    The gasket is a snug fit. The pivot points for the lens are to the outside, away from the trunk/hatch opening. You should be able to pull the lense out using moderate force, hands only, no prying tools.

    Jim
  • kaleekalee Member Posts: 1
    So, awhile ago, my front passenger side door just quit opening from the inside. It opens fine from the outside. I took the door panel off and checked the inside, but everything seems to be connected. The car was sold to me with no owner's manual, so I have no idea how to fix this. Any ideas??? I'd like to get this fixed, because it's quite humiliating to ask my passnegers to roll down the window and open the door from the outside!
  • artthedimeartthedime Member Posts: 1
    Just bought a 2003 Hyundai Elantra. It has accessory packages that all include keyless entry, and a small remote controller was in the glove box, but it did not work. The battery is OK, so I assume the programming is wrong. Any way I can program it myself? artthedime
  • 5port5port Member Posts: 395
    No need to reprogram the remote. The way I understand it you set the ETACS unit to learn the new remote code. Its easy to do and the instructions are in the "Garage Page" of the Drivers and Believers website. Search "Drivers and Believers" then go to page 4 of the garage page.
  • cruzncruzn Member Posts: 3
    Hi,
    I brought a new 2005 Elantra - since day one I've had the following problems -
    a. The interior light goes on and off when I make hard left turns or hit a bump.
    b. The door open light goes on and off spuradically (even when all the doors are closed).
    c. The "passenger air bag is off" light stays on even when an adult is sitting in the passenger seat.

    I haven't taken it in for the airbag recall fix yet.

    Anyone have similar problems ?

    Thanks
  • backybacky Member Posts: 18,949
    That's a new one to me. Looks like a short in the electrical system, or a problem with the light switch on the door--definitely something for the dealer to fix under warranty. One thing to check is if the little rubber covers on the door light switches are seated properly. You can have the OCS reprogrammed at the same time, if that problem isn't related to the others.
  • lightfootfllightfootfl Member Posts: 442
    Re Hyundai's
    While shopping I am concerned about several things, one of which is the timing belt/chain servicing. Does the Elantra have a chain, with long term servicing, or belt with 50-60K servicing required?? What about the Sonata 4cyl or 6cyl ?? Also, in the specs I find some show road clearances others not, does anyone know what they are for these vehicles?? Also what kind of "normal" servicing periods for them? i.e. 30k,60k etc? :confuse: Thanks
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Member Posts: 2,242
    The interior light and door ajar issues can both be traced back to a defective or mis-adjusted door jamb switch. Could be a problem in the harness, but the switch would be the place to start.

    Get the OCS recall performed. That should take care of the "passenger air bag is off" problem. They were trying to make sure the airbag would not deploy with a car seat and child in the front and got the setting wrong. No one in their right mind would put a car seat in the front, but the manufacturers have to assume the full spectrum of consumer intelligence and predisposition to shunning responsibility in favor of litigation.
  • 1racefan1racefan Member Posts: 932
    Regarding the Elantra, they have timing belts. The manual suggests 60K service intervals. This will run you anywhere between $250-$450.

    In terms of normal service intervals - if you are going to have it dealer serviced, my dealer suggests 30K services where they replace fluids and spark plugs (my local dealers do not include auto tranny fluid in these 30K services - and I believe in 30K auto tranny fluid changes). Some Hyundai dealers even push 15K service intervals, which often include an air filter, and some "adjustments". Of course, brakes, belts, hoses and oil changes are seperate from these services.

    I can't answer your Sonata questions.
  • w9cww9cw Member Posts: 888
    Yes, the current generation Elantra has a timing belt. The 2007 Elantra will most likely have a timing chain. The 2006 Sonata 4-cylinder and V6 both have timing chains.
  • lightfootfllightfootfl Member Posts: 442
    Gottcha on all that, thanks... every bit helps in making the decisions.. :)
  • doohickiedoohickie Member Posts: 949
    You can see what Hyundai tells their dealers about wheel shimmy here. Click on "NVH", then ''Wheel & Tire". They know it's a problem and tell their dealers how to fix it. The key is to use a Hunter wheel balancing machine. It's discussed in that link and they even have a link to Hunter's website where you can check to see if your dealer has a Hunter machine, or, if not, where the nearest one is.

    At the very least, you can print out some of those sections and ask the dealer whether they are current on Hyundai's technician training (that link is actually materials from a training course for technicians).
  • doohickiedoohickie Member Posts: 949
    Also, in the specs I find some show road clearances others not, does anyone know what they are for these vehicles??

    Stock clearance on the Elantra is excellent; I don't even have to jack it up to get in underneath for clearance.

    Except: On the front of the frame are two tow hooks, and I've scraped them on steep driveway aprons. It sounds and feels awful but doesn't harm the car (other than scratching the paint on the hooks).
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Member Posts: 2,242
    And those little tie down hooks can protect the expensive pieces. Couple of months ago driving in the dark I came around a curve. When the lights illuminated the steel plate that had fallen into the hole it was supposed to cover there was only time to hit the brakes and hope for the best as there was a car next to me. It sounded like I had absolutely destroyed the front end, but the car continued to drive straight and the dealer inspection showed only that there was no paint on the drivers side tie-down and the paint was scratched on the left side control arm.

    Those tie-downs also will keep you from tearing things up on curbs that are just a little bit too tall.
  • lightfootfllightfootfl Member Posts: 442
    To each one who replied to my request for info I thank you. I truly appreciate all of the comments on these various posts. I too think the hooks would be a good thing for just those reasons given.
    :)
  • doohickiedoohickie Member Posts: 949
    They're essentially undercarriage bumpers. I suppose the rally-types would use those to attach the skid plates.
  • bbecker2bbecker2 Member Posts: 1
    My 2005 hyundai elantra pings when it is cold as soon a it warms up the pinging is gone and the car runs great. What could the problem be.
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Member Posts: 2,242
    Those are the transport/winch points for anchoring the vehicle during transport or winching it up onto a platform wrecker. They started showing up on cars when the manufacturerers went more to unitized bodies. With no frame to hook onto, those without mechanical logic would hook to the tie-rods, struts, whatever was easiest and tend to do a lot of damage.

    Last month in Alaska my BIL put a small SUV into a snow bank. A good samaritan stopped to pull him out, and managed to pull one of the rear control arms off the car.

    :mad:
  • doohickiedoohickie Member Posts: 949
    There was a video going around on the net last year showing someone pulling a car out of a snow bank and they end up pulling the whole bumper off!
  • mjames11mjames11 Member Posts: 2
    I just got a 2005 elantra. No owners manual. Not sure how the keyless entry works. Seems when I hit the lock button twice it beeps but not sure what that indicates. Also, is there an alarm built in? I got the alarm to activate when I exited the car but couldn't get it to active when I tried to open when it was locked.
  • backybacky Member Posts: 18,949
    The beep on the 2nd press is just to verify that the car is locked and alarm is engaged. The turn signals flash when the doors lock and alarm is engaged, as a visual cue. That way, you can lock the car with one click and not bother your neighbors. :)

    The alarm should go off if you try to open the car any way other than with the remote once the alarm is armed (with the remote). For instance, if you use the key or reach in through an open window and unlock the car, the alarm should go off when you open the door.
  • doohickiedoohickie Member Posts: 949
    If you have a broadband connection, go to HyundaiUSA.com and register as an owner, and put your car in. From there you can download a PDF file for the Owners Manual.
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Member Posts: 2,242
    Also, if you use the remote to unlock the car and do not open a door in ~30 seconds, the car will lock itself and arm the alarm. Neat feature in my opinion.
  • doohickiedoohickie Member Posts: 949
    Nice feature... but you have to get used to it.
  • mjames11mjames11 Member Posts: 2
    When the low fuel light comes on, how much fuel do you have left?
  • backybacky Member Posts: 18,949
    Not much--about a gallon on my '01 GLS and between 1-2 gallons on my '04 GT. So it's best not to let the light come on at all, IMO, especially in the cold of winter.
  • obnurse79obnurse79 Member Posts: 1
    seems like the motor(front) makes a slight rumble noise when starting out at least first few miles? is this normal on a new car, common with this car, going to continue or should i have it checked out?
  • rjnulphrjnulph Member Posts: 1
    I've recently bought a 94 Hyundai Elantra GLS. When I start the car up it idles ok but when I press on the gas it starts spitting and sputtering. It also wants to stall out when you put it into drive. I've replaced the spark plugs, fuel filter and the mass air flow sensor. This however did not fix my problem. Does anyone have any ideas or experience with these types of problems?
  • backybacky Member Posts: 18,949
    Probably should have it checked out. It's hard to tell what kind of "rumble" you are hearing. It could be nothing but might as well be sure. Another thing you could do while at the dealer is ask to drive another Elantra to see if it makes the same sound.
  • don1don1 Member Posts: 14
    moisture in the gas? buy a bottle of gas additive, and pour it in tank,along with a full tank of hi-octane gas,and have your gas filter changed.... ;)
  • doohickiedoohickie Member Posts: 949
    Is the rumble you're talking about an exhaust noise from the rear of the car? I've noticed that on cool/cold mornings, until the car warms up there is a kind of pronounced exhaust growl at certain RPMs. I haven't checked but I would guess it's at 2500-3000 RPMs, right where you have the engine running when driving gently in the morning before it's warmed up. It seems to go away as the engine warms up.

    Is that the kind of noise you're talking about? If so, I think it's pretty normal, but you may mention it next time the car is in for service and see if that's true.
  • w9cww9cw Member Posts: 888
    I have a new 2006 Elantra GLS with only 675 miles, which has developed its first (seemingly) abnormal noise. I say "seemingly," because perhaps it's normal. I plan on taking it in to the dealer for a listen, but also thought I would post it here in case anyone may have any ideas.

    The noise appears to occur when the engine is at operational temp, and is most noticeable from around 1900 to 2100 RPM. The noise is present in Park or Neutral, or when driving at those RPM ranges.

    I wish I would include a audio file, but it sounds kind of like a low to mid-pitched "rrrrrrr" superimposed on a lower-pitched rumble (almost like a bad bearing sounds). It's coming from the crankshaft and accessory belt drive side of the engine (left-side when facing the car). I spent some time with a mechanic's stethoscope this evening, and couldn't come up with anything localized or definite. I does sound like it's coming from the bottom-half area of the timing belt cover area, but it's really hard to pinpoint the exact source.

    I know it could be anything, but is it normal for the timing belt tensioner to make some noise? If not, and if it's the timing belt tensioner, do they prematurely (infant mortality) fail occasionally? Another possible source may be the AC belt tensioner, below the AC compressor. Or, possibly even the alternator bearing. I know I'm grabbing at straws here, but it certainly doesn't sound normal, and neither my wife or I have heard it until today, as the engine (not exhaust) seems to make more noise even at idle than before.

    The only thing that I've ever heard even close to the "rrrrrrr" sound is what some of the GM X-series (Celebrity, 6000, Cutlass Ciera, etc.) cars used to sound like from outside the car at low speeds, and I think that sound was transaxle related.

    Obviously, it's off to the dealer for some troubleshooting. I just hope the tech can hear it . . .

    Thanks,
    Don
  • backybacky Member Posts: 18,949
    I've never heard a noise like that, from that part of the car, in the 10+ Elantras I've driven (I own two). I'd take it in for a look-see if I were you.
  • 1racefan1racefan Member Posts: 932
    Anybody know roughly what it costs to have the struts replaced on the current generation Elantra? I think my wife's struts are weak on her '02. Tires are brand new, but we are noticing an increased level of road noise in the rear of the car when we travel over uneven surfaces (seems to be traveling up throught the wheel wells, throught the trunk, and into the cabin). The fronts are still pretty quiet, but I would probably just go ahead and have all 4 replaced as the car seems mechanically sound otherwise, and I am going to be using it as a third car here and driving it until it dies.

    Speaking of third car, we are getting the itch again. Going to check out the Tucson as well as the Element withing the next few weeks. We sat in both back at the auto show, but have yet to drive either of them.
  • backybacky Member Posts: 18,949
    Are you sure your Elantra has struts in back? I thought the Elantra has an independent multi-link rear suspension with stabilizer bar and coil springs. There's struts in the front, though.
  • doohickiedoohickie Member Posts: 949
    Elantras have rear struts with a coil spring.
  • doohickiedoohickie Member Posts: 949
    Elantras have rear struts with a coil spring.

    image
  • 1racefan1racefan Member Posts: 932
    The front struts are pretty quiet, but I have noticed when I am driving her car, and pull into our driveway, the tie down hooks under the front bumper scrape a little bit. This has just started within the last couple of months. That leads me to believe that the struts are a little weak in the front as well. But with 72K on the car, that is to be expected. Like I mentioned earlier, the car seems to be great otherwise, so I think I may just go ahead and have 4 new struts put on it.

    I am going to get a quote from the local Hyundai dealer. Unfortunately, the dealer we were dealing with got bought out, and the entire dervice department was replaced with new service managers and techs. When I asked the new service manager how long he had worked on Hyundais, his response was, "We are all new to Hyundais, we all came from one of the dealer's other stores that deals in another brand." There is also a NAPA service center up the street from my house that I have had various things done at over the years. They are a pleasure to deal with, and always do a good job. They have been in the community for a lot of years, and have developed a great reputation with the locals. I amy also get a quote from a place like Monroe as well just for the heck of it.
  • doohickiedoohickie Member Posts: 949
    While you're at it, you may inquire what they have as far as Tiburon parts. They fit the Elantra and will give you a tighter, sportier ride. If you want soft/comfortable, though, stick with th Elantra stuff.
Sign In or Register to comment.

Your Privacy

By accessing this website, you acknowledge that Edmunds and its third party business partners may use cookies, pixels, and similar technologies to collect information about you and your interactions with the website as described in our Privacy Statement, and you agree that your use of the website is subject to our Visitor Agreement.