Hyundai Elantra Maintenance and Repair

jlflemmons

Your dealer is wrong, the Elantra can dry socks it has so much floor air.

Has anyone figured out how the heater can warm up so fast? In freezing weather I can have warm air out of the vents less than one minute after start. It is almost like there is some sort of electric element or something because there is no way that little engine is generating heat that quickly.

w9cw

It could be similar to SAAB's heating system. SAAB uses a two-stage thermostat. This is a requirement in Sweden.

backy

I think it's just because the engine warms up quickly. After about a mile the temp gauge has started moving up. My 2000 626 acts like this too, FWIW. Both have 2.0L engines.

andyinottawa

how to change rear bearings do I need special tools ? my mechanic wants to charge 300.00 per wheel and said both back and one front is gone ? the dealer price on rear bearings is 132.00 ( cnd) so i would like to do them myself if possible

doohickie

I haven't done a wheel bearing yet, but this may help:

I'm not 100% sure you can access it from Canada, but Hyundai Motor America has the service manual online. Here is a link to a guide I put together on how to access it.

Guide to Hyundai WebTech

andyinottawa

thanks for the link and the info , for some reason I can't get to the service info page ? all the other links work but not that one ? any ideas /

langoustine

i bought a 2005 elantra gls hatchback in january from a hyundai certified used car dealer. the car had 179 miles on it; the reason for the quick resell by the original owner was that he broke his knee and could not drive a manual. i noticed that when i shifted from first to second or second to third, the engine would rev a little after disengaging the clutch instead of going down in revs. after a second or two, it would go back to normal. now, after 2100 miles, the clutch died and had to be replaced, something not covered by the warranty. i learned how to drive on a manual over fifteen years ago and never had a problem like this with a clutch. the new clutch seems to work fine. has anyone had a similar problem?

backy

The clutch should be covered unless the dealer can prove that the failure was due to misuse. The clutch on my '01 Elantra GLS failed last August. It actually "broke". The dealer said it was the result of several "hard" shifts. My wife and son admitted that they had done several of those. :mad: So I had no leg to stand on. But the dealer said if the failure was due to a defect, it would have been covered. The car was almost five years old and had about 36,000 miles on it at the time.

jlflemmons

2100 mile clutch failure not covered by warranty??? Time to call in the dogs my friend because you would have to be using the car on a road course to tear up a clutch that fast. I put 42K miles on an Elantra, mostly stop and go traffic, and the clutch was still tight as a drum.

Did the dealer state specifically what happened to the clutch?

doohickie

The thing about the revs hanging up a little when changing gears: Elantras as well as several other cars do that. Apparently letting the RPMs drop quickly increases polution, so they kind of artificially make the revs stay up a little longer. That should not have had anything to do with your clutch failure, though.

A worn out clutch would not normally be covered, but I suspect that there is some number of miles (probably something like 12k) where *all* wear items are warranted. Check the warranty paperwork.

doohickie

I can't get to the service info page ? all the other links work but not that one ? any ideas /

When you say you can't get to it, do you mean it won't load? Check out the Site Requirements; it is one of the buttons from the main page. You need Internet Explorer (the site is not checked out for Firefox or Netscape), and you also need SVG viewer which they provide a link to under Site Requirements. Also, it is not uncommon for them to bring the site down for maintenance, especially late at night. You may have just tried at the wrong time.

Try it again; if it doesn't work, maybe I can pull the information for you and post it somewhere.

I looked it up. There is one picture that may or may not be useful to you, and here is the text. I found this under Model: Elantra, Year: 2002, under the Shop tab. I selected Drive Shaft & Axle > Rear Axle > Rear Axle/Hub > REMOVAL

REMOVAL
1. Remove the rear wheel speed sensor (for vehicles equipped with ABS).

CAUTION
When removing the speed sensor from the adapter, be careful so that the end of the pole piece doesn't strike teeth on the rotor or other components.

2. Remove the caliper assembly and suspend it with a wire.

3. Remove the brake disc.

4. Remove the hub cap, wheel bearing nut and tongue washer.

5. Remove the hub assembly.

CAUTION
The rear hub assembly should not be disassembled.

CAUTION (For vehicles equipped with ABS)
Care must be taken not to scratch or damage the teeth of the rotor. The rotor must never be dropped. If the teeth of the rotor are chipped, it results in deformation of the rotor. It will make it impossible to detect the wheel rotation speed accurately and to operate the system normally.

If you get in, there is a decent diagram in the same section, except select COMPONENTS instead of REMOVAL. Also in that section it states that the nut torque should be 159-192 ft-lb.

kagedude

My sister's 2001 Hyundai Elantra GLS's wipers has a lock on it and I can't seem to remove it by pressing on the tab and trying to move the wipers down. Is there a correct way of doing so? Don't want to break it. Thanks.

doohickie

I have no clue what you're talking about. If it's the same as on my 05 (which I suspect it is), there is no lock and the switch is probably broken to where it's jammed.

backy

Yes, not quite sure what you mean by a "lock". Are they custom wipers maybe? The OEM wipers allow the blades to be removed like any other wiper blades, it's very easy to replace them.

doohickie

I took a look and I think I have it figured out:

1. My finger is pointing to the locking tab:



2. Press the tab:



3. Slide the arm as shown while continuing to press the tab:



4. Then slide it back by the attachment fitting:



5. And off:

kagedude

Doohickie, thank you very much for the very fool proof pics! I will try that tomorrow. I think its the first time in 5 years they are replacing the wipers because I couldn't budge it but now that I know which way to go, I am set.

lightfootfl

Absolutely fabulous shots, thanks. van

doohickie

Glad I could help. I misread the first post and thought you said the switch was stuck and I had no idea where it could be stuck. Then I read backy's post and realized you meant the blades themselves. Since my car is only a few months old, everything is still clean and easy to work with.

kagedude

I tried and it worked! Thanks again.

Actually now I need to change a burnt bulb in the right tailight. I started removing the 3 screws but the 4th one is a rubber one which I thought was a screw and accidentally ripped the rubber part. I tried to pull the tailight assembly out and it won't give.

Again, anyone know the correct way of doing it? Thanks!

kagedude

I took the car in the shop and just had them replace the bulb. They unscrewed the 3 screws (left the rubber one as its just a mounting guide) and then pulled the light assembly hard for it to come off. They were nice enough not to charge me since I brought in the spare bulb.

w9cw

Hey Backy and Doohickie - this one's for you . . .

I waxed our new 2006 Elantra GLS yesterday for the first time since the purchase in late December. And, I was chagrined to find "crease dents" beneath the rocker panel on both sides of the car. Each of the "V-type" dents are perpendicular to the rocker seam, and almost alinged with the center rust-proofing plug, just slightly forward of B pillar. The one on the driver's side is more prevalent (and deep) than the one on the passenger's side. There is no evidence of paint damage on either rocker panel.

Obviously, I was sincerely disappointed and concerned on how this could have happened. One starts to "brainstorm" on the possibilities, such as "did the dealer mess up placing the car on the lift, or . . .?" In my case, the car has only been to the dealer once after delivery due to a fraying power steering drive belt, which they changed from underneath the car. Thus, my obsession with the possible hydraulic lift theory.

Well, guess what? I just returned from the dealer and inspected 1 used 2005 Elantra GLS and 6 new 2006 Elantra GLS's on the lot (only 1 hatchback 5 speed BTW) - and, ALL have the same dent in each rocker panel! Big surprise . . . my guess is the jig that punches the holes for the rustproofing must fit "a bit too tightly against the rocker" during the manufacturing process.

Certanly, I'm releived that it seems to be normal, but also a bit befuddled. This is only specific to the current generation Elantra, and not any other of the Hyundai sedan products, as I checked them all this evening - even including the previous generation Accent and Sonata.

So, I guess we Elantra owners have dents supplied as standard equipment with our new car. That's one way of eliminating the anxiety of getting your first parking lot ding! At least you almost have to stand on your head to notice them.

backy

Well, you have dents supplied as standard equipment with your car. My '04 GT has no such dents. I didn't check my '01 GLS but I inspect it pretty closely and I've never seen any dents like that. I recommend you check the Elantras at a different dealer, and maybe look at the used car lot to see if pre-'05 Elantras have those dents.

jlflemmons

My '05 GT has them. They have been there since day one. The lift my dealer uses doesn't come anywhere near them. They are very hard to see unless the car is on a lift and you are underneath.

w9cw

I forgot to mention our Elantra was not purchased at the local dealer, rather at one in a Chicago suburb (Downers Grove) 150 miles north of here. Thus, it appears that it's not specific to one dealer. It looks like it might be endemic to the 2005 and 2006 model years, since Backy's 2004 doesn't have them. Interesting . . .

backy

I confirmed today that my '01 Elantra doesn't have these dents either. Looks like it started in '05.

w9cw

Backy - does your '01 or '05 have platic hole plugs on the underside of the rockers, near the crimp seam? One wonders if this is the problem, and if the holes are punched (or, drilled) at the factory or at port. I just can't see Hyundai delivering the vehicle this way. Next time you're at a Hyundai dealer, take a look at an '06 and you'll see what I mean.

It will be interesting what the local dealer says about this. They will probably plead ignorance, but OTOH they may have the real answer.

My question is: Why just the Elantra, and why only the '05 and '06 model years? Wierd . . .

backy

Yes, both of my Elantras have the rubber plugs in the rocker panel. I'm not sure why they would be drilled at the port.

Is it really a big issue? Like you said, you need to stand on your head to see them.

credulus

No, it's not a big issue. I'm just somewhat chagrined that a new car comes with dents regardless where they are located. I don't think anyone buying a new car expects dents to be present. I probably would have gone another 4 months not noticing them, except for the recent wax job.

I'll check with the dealer this week; hopefully, he will know the reason why they are present in the '05 and '06 model years.

w9cw

That's my post above. Used by son's notebook, and I didn't realize he was already logged onto Edmunds.com! BTW . . . the dent on both rockers is a dimension of 1" x 2", not big, but then not real small either. FWIW, I'll keep you posted on the official Hyundai position on this. I find it very interesting.

rvail

Seems my vent control knob doesn't work, as of yesterday. The split setting (floor & dash combo) is on whether I set it to any of the other positons. I'm wondering if this is a cable linked operation (probably) or something else. Anyone know or have this problem?

Thanks,
Rick

doohickie

Not sure; I haven't had any problems like that. I would suggest consulting Hyundai WebTech, their online service manual. I've written a guide to using it at DFWHyundais.com (click on "Hyundai WebTech Guide" from that link). Hyundai allows free access to their shop manuals online with a free registration.

Karen_S

A reporter would like to talk with owners of vehicles with headlight covers that are becoming cloudy or yellowed. Please respond to jfallon@edmunds.com with your daytime contact info, vehicle details and a few words about your experience no later than Thursday, May 11.

Thanks,
Jeannine Fallon
Corporate Communications
Edmunds.com

backy

I am happy to report that after almost six years the headlamp covers on my Elantra are non-yellowed and pretty clear, with some pinpricks from sand etc. of course. I am actually surprised how well they have held up. But part of it is I drive almost entirely on city streets and highways, so not many dirt roads. However, the winter sand on the roads takes its toll.

snakeweasel

But part of it is I drive almost entirely on city streets and highways, so not many dirt roads.

I have had more than my share of dirt roads, gravel roads, corn fields, back yards, and the like and headlamp covers (as well as the car as a whole) have held up pretty well.

jlflemmons

Chrysler and Ford have had real problems in this area. I have seen six year old Chrysler mini-vans and Neons where the headlights were nearly opaque.

I used a golf club ferrule polishing technique to clean them up. Done right, works great. Done wrong, and you are buying a headlamp assembly.

a1911guy

Bought our Elantra new here in Colorado. Been a good car without problems, but recently has started to grind as the shift lever is moved into 2nd gear. When car is cold -- setting over night -- it does not do this initially, but once warmed up is it pretty consistent. If I shift very, very slowly it will not grind. And yes, I am fully depressing clutch pedal.

Took it into the dealer and they say I need a new clutch. And, oh by the way, it is not covered by warranty, even though we have only 64,000 on the car, so we will be out $675. I've been driving for 40 years, and every car/truck I've had has not needed clutch replacement until much later than normal. My conviction is that this is a transmission problem, and has nothing to do with the clutch. Anyone with similar experiences or insights?

Thanks.

jlflemmons

If it is only doing it when warmed up, try changing to an appropriate weight synthetic gear oil. Clutches will tend to grind more when cold as the gears do not slow as easily in cold oil so I don't buy the clutch story. And if this doesn't fix it, you are only out $20 bucks or so for the oil.

Might also be sure the fluid level in the clutch cylinder is full.

backy

I had a Civic that needed a new clutch after 40,000 miles and a 626 that needed one after 45,000. So it happens. And I was driving in the flat Midwest, not the hills and mountains of Colorado.

The only way you can tell for sure if it is a transmission defect is take it to another mechanic, preferably a transmission specialist, for an evaluation. Then if they find there is a problem that is covered under warranty (might be difficult to prove, may have to go to arbitration) you can go to Hyundai to pay for the repair. But I am pretty sure the clutch pressure plate (if that is what needs replacing) is NOT covered under the powertrain warranty as it is considered a "normal wear" item like brake shoes.

Which reminds me... I had the brakes checked on my '01 Elantra the other day and there was still 90% left on the fronts and 85% on the rears--I was pretty happy about that, since the car does a lot of city driving.

rcinmd

Try bleeding the clutch. It's a simple procedure, and may make a difference. At the very least, it will get air out of the system, and give you a firmer pedal. I noticed on a friend's Elantra with about 70K miles at the time that his pedal was soft, so I recommended we bleed the clutch. He was amazed at the difference in pedal feel following the procedure.
The bleeder valve is accessible without having to remove any hardware.

doohickie

Also, there is a simple procedure to remove the restrictor plate in the clutch that makes it shift more quickly.

jlflemmons

I thought removing the restrictor only allowed the clutch to re-engage faster. The dis-engage shouldn't be affected and with or without will not affect the scratching of the gear on shifting. This would not be the first Elantra I have heard of that would sometimes scratch going into second gear.

doohickie

Could be. I have an AT.

gary045

I think you are right about it being a transmission problem.
Sounds like a worn out 1st to 2nd gear synchronizer.
My son-in-laws hopped up Mustang did the same thing till he had a tranny rebuild kit done on it.

Does it grind the same if you shift at 12mph and 16mph?
Use more force or less?
If there is a difference, it is probably a synchronizer.

I'd mention the 1st to 2nd gear synchronizer when talking to the service manager before I paid for a new clutch that may not fix the problem to see what he says.

cgood

We're car-shopping this weekend. Considering a new Elantra 5-door OR a Tuscan, though in looking for good gas mileage, the Elantra seems preferable. Hubby wants good driving car, I want more sport! Either way we're probably looking for leather, sunroof, goodies. We're ALMOST empty-nesters, time for something nicer FOR US! Kids can drive the old beaters we've always had.

Any pros-cons on buying either? Thanks.

snakeweasel

All things considered I would go with the Elantra, its less expensive and better on gas. But the big thing will be which one do you like best?

Take both for a test drive, with both you and hubby driving each for at least a little. Then talk about which one both of you like the best.

doohickie

Hubby wants good driving car, I want more sport!

If you want sports handling, forget the Elantra unless you want to put in some modifications. There is a cheap (~$100-150) mod to put in the Tiburon GT sway bar which is a big improvement, but it still doesn't corner like a Mazda3. If I really wanted to make it handle, I would put on some aftermarket springs, especially in the front.

However, if you are looking for a freeway cruiser for longish trips, I can personally vouche for the Elantra. I just finshed an 1800 mile round trip in mine and got 32+ mpg overall with an automatic. And compared to other cars like the Corolla, Focus and Sentra, it feels like a much larger car and is pretty darned quiet.

If you can find an 06 Elantra hatch, you should be able to get it for a really good price since it is the last model year of the body type. I have an 05 hatch and I'm lovin' it.

I've heard only luke-warm reviews of the Tucson... but then again, I am definitely not an SUV fan, so I probably listen to the worst interpretation.

toddmerkin

OK - HERES A NEW ONE - THE RADIO IN OUR '04 ELANTRA STOPED WORKING 6 MONTHS AGO - JUST SHUT OFF SUDDENLY AND THEN THE NEXT DAY WAS BACK WORKING

THE RADIO IS ACTING UP AGAIN TODAY - JUST WOULDNT TURN ON - ANYONE ELSE HERE AVE THIS ONE HAPPEN TO THEM?

ALSO - IS ANYONE ELSE HAVING PAINT PROBLEMS ON THEIR 04 OR 05

OUR CAR IS BALCK SO IT SHOWS EVEYHTING BHUT THE WHOLE HOOD IS COVERED IN CHIPS AND PAINT INPERFECTIONS.

WOULD APPRECIAT5E ANY AND ALL REPLIES

doohickie

First of all, lose the caps lock; it makes it sound like you are SHOUTING. Secondly, unless the car has over 60,000 miles, it is still under warranty. Take it to a dealer and have them look at the radio.

Also, which radio do you have? Is it the Hyundai radio, or the Kenwood radio, which was standard on 04 GT models?

toddmerkin

its a gls so its not the kenwood and they tell me the radio isnt covered under the 5 50 warranty so i may have to replace it with an aftermarket radio

backy

According to hyundaiusa.com, the radio has a 3 year, 36,000 mile warranty. Depending on how many miles your car has on it, it could still be under warranty. If you took the car in a year ago when the radio first failed, there would be a service record on that, which might help your case. Paint defects are also covered for 3 years, 36,000 miles.