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2011 Hyundai Sonata, 2014 BMW 428i convertible, 2015 Honda CTX700D
If you decide to go with an aftermarket radio, email me through my profile; I can point you to some good online resources (people who have done the same thing and put together guides with pictures and stuff).
These can be found on the Hyundai web site.
You can access this information on a Hyundai site called WebTech. I've written a guide on how to sign up and navigate through WebTech here.
2011 Hyundai Sonata, 2014 BMW 428i convertible, 2015 Honda CTX700D
2011 Hyundai Sonata, 2014 BMW 428i convertible, 2015 Honda CTX700D
2011 Hyundai Sonata, 2014 BMW 428i convertible, 2015 Honda CTX700D
2011 Hyundai Sonata, 2014 BMW 428i convertible, 2015 Honda CTX700D
The resistance should start out either high or low, and then move as the temp of the coolant changes. But the movement should be a steady change in resistance, and stay steady once the engine is warmed up.
That all depends on what is making the light turn on. most likely it won't hurt to drive it for a little while if the light is on. But in the mean time check the gas cap, if its not on tight the check engine light will go on. After tightening it it will stay on for a while (not sure why). Also have you done any work under the hood just before that happened? Sometimes reassembling certain things like the hose assembly from the air filter to the engine can cause it (if you put the piece with the sensor on backwards.
2011 Hyundai Sonata, 2014 BMW 428i convertible, 2015 Honda CTX700D
If everything seems okay, but the CEL is on, you are probably fine driving to the dealer. Just watch your gauges and pay attention to anything out of the norm.
If it is the cataltyic converter, that specific part is warranteed specifically longer than any other part, at least in CA. You may want to talk to the dealer, should it come to it.
My CELs all registered as a slight leak in the evap system which is usually attributed to the fuel cap, until the last one, which had a different code and eventually was traced to a bad evap purge valve. Since the valve was fixed, I haven't gotten any more CELs (about 5,000 miles now; the longest I've gone without one).
He said it could be from the oil filter [not a Hyundai filter]. Said he sees many Hyundai's like that from the wrong oil filter and suggested I have the oil and filter changed so I did. He said to call him if I have any more problem with it. So I drove home and the oil light was still on and still didn't go out. Is he lying to me about the oil filter or has anyone ever heard of that before?
I don't want to keep spending more money if he is just going to keep trying things to keep me spending money. Why didn't he just do a diagnostic test on my car to find the problem?
Car isn't under warranty, I bought is used last year. It just recently turned over 60,000 miles so I guess the warranty wouldn't apply now.
Funny though, my car had been serviced at that Dealer before, he said the previous owner last had it serviced for the 20,000 mile service on it. Said the previous owner always had it serviced when it was time for it. Any thoughts on this?
Thanks.
catbabe
Make note of a few things. Is the car running the same? Has the gas mileage changed? Starts the same? Temp the same? If there is no obvious change in the performance of the engine, it could be something as simple as a throttle position sensor or oxygen sensor that is just out of tolerance. Either of these could set the light without having a noticable effect on the performance of the vehicle.
Most oil places check the air filter. One time on mine the assembly attached to the top of the air filter housing came apart and they put the part that attaches directly to the housing on backwards. That alone caused my CEL to come on, apparently there is a sensor in there and being installed backwards will cause a CEL. So I would check to see if that piece is on correctly and if it is tight, also see if the housing for the air filter is on correctly too.
2011 Hyundai Sonata, 2014 BMW 428i convertible, 2015 Honda CTX700D
I stopped and got gas and drove to St. Louis MO. I live in IL.
And the CEL light went out, yippee, I hope it stays out. I called and cancelled my apt for tomorrow. I will wait and see if the light stays off. Car seems to drive ok, has plenty power and not showing hot or anything so far. Service man did say my front breaks were bad. I do hear a slight whistle like noise seems to come from the front wheels, could be the breaks I guess. Wondering if I should stick with Hyundai Service for oil changes, if it really does make a difference. The Dobbs Service place is right down the street from me but the Honda place is in next town. Is it best to stick with a Hyundai Service?
catbabe
What kind of relationship do you have with your dealer and their service manager? If it's good, you could talk to them about the fact that the mirror switch wearing out (if that is what it is) isn't really dependent on all the miles you have driven, and see if they will be sympathetic and cut you some kind of a break. It's worth a try, especially if you have been a "loyal customer" and used the dealer a lot for service (102k is a LOT of oil changes!).
As a trivia note, in a lot of GM autos, and probably others, a power window failure on the passengers side can actually be tied back to the drivers side switch. It is an unusual circuit, but makes sense after you figure it out.
Just one driver, and I bet the mirror was adjusted upon delivery, and not tried again till 60K miles, at which point I think that portion of the warranty which would cover the mirror had expired. Just recently discovered that the passenger side was now doing the same thing. At 60K, the passenger side was working properly.
It has been serviced solely by the dealer, including all the scheduled maintenance. They did cut him a break when he had to have the master cylinder and one caliper replaced. Still some out-of-pocket expense though. Now hearing what might be a rear bearing going south. The original Michelins did last 64K though, and the current BFGs are doing well, with a little sign of feathering. That might be the source of the noise now being heard.
All in all, not too bad considering the miles and costs to date. The leather on the driver's side is somewhat shiny now, but still completely intact with no deterioration otherwise. But I am willing to bet the next 100K might get a little more expensive.
He may be pleasantly surprised on the rear bearing replacement. My experience with the two Elantra's I have ownded is that the repair parts and labor are very reasonable, especially when compared to Honda/Toyota.
I have known some people downstate in the country that have put almost 200K on cars without changing the clutch.
2011 Hyundai Sonata, 2014 BMW 428i convertible, 2015 Honda CTX700D
I did bleed the clutch once, to firm it up a bit.
It appears the BFGs are on their way to get probably 80K.
I figured I would have to get new tires, then new struts, because everything was starting to feel "loose". We just got her Falken Ziex ZE512 tires and the difference is amazing; the car feels tighter than I remember it feeling when it was new. I know those Falkens are popular replacements among Elantra drivers and based on my wife's experience I think that is what I'll replace the stock Michies with when the time comes.