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Hyundai Elantra Maintenance and Repair



  • I read to different things on removing the read brake drum.

    One says you remove the grease cap and bearing
    the outer says the drum comes off without doing this
    If i display the brake drum on autozone for
    a 2005 elantra gls it looks like you take it out without
    touching the wheel bearing. confused. anyone done this before.
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,242
    Drum comes off as a single unit, no need to mess with the bearing. If you are having trouble getting it off, take off the wheel and put WD40 on the studs. Let it soak for a while, then TAP, the drum using a sledge hammer. I said TAP, because you don't want to whail away on the drum with a sledge. The mass of the sledge hammer tap will jar the drum and break loose the corrosion causing it to stick.
  • A rubber hammer works as well, although you may have to really give it a whack at several places around the circumference. But, no chance in cracking the cast iron drum.
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,242
    Best is a soft brass hammer, or a "dead" mallet. Those are the ones that are made of high impact plastic, and filled with BB's. You get the force, but with a softer material, and no bounce back at your face! :surprise:
  • New member here asking for guidance on repairing or replacing engine on my daughter's and my 2002 Elantra sedan with 51,00 miles. Does anyone know of cases similar to ours where an overheated and damaged engine was repaired and ran soundly beyond 80,000 miles or so? I like the apparent lower cost of engine repair v. a used, low miles engine replacement. My repair concerns are: 1) increased risks of premature engine failure that wouldn't be paid for by the repair's warranty and 2) replacing the head gasket, machining the head smooth, putting engine together and it still doesn't run.

    The 2002 (we're third owners) overheated on my daughter at 60 mph, lost power as dashboard red lights came on, and then she and her brother saw steam coming from under the hood. Radiator leaked in many places, engine wouldn't restart. Towed car to our regular, trustworthy garage. Manager diagnosed: "no start, engine turns over rapidly, removed timing cover, found engine to be in time, checked compression low, added oil to cyls to get compression to come up with no luck. Compression is at 30 psi. Found radiator tank split open at the top, possible compression in cooling system causing radiator to split. Recommend replacing engine and radiator." He estimated $3000 p/l for a used engine of 33K miles and new radiator. He thinks the head gasket may be blown and rings seized, yet will need more time to know. Temperature and oil pressure gauges okay. One CV joint boot is cracked, parts dry. Otherwise, car seems okay and has run well.

    An area Hyundai service manager, without seeing the car, thinks the diagnosis is right except that engine may be repairable for about $1500 p/l and with a new
    radiator...nearing $2000. "A faulty thermostat likely started the're daughter had anywhere from a few seconds to a minute to react, good that she got off the road." "This is basically a sound little engine. I've seen a number of cases like what you've described, and your mechanic, and we open up the engine,
    replace the head gasket, machine smooth, put it back together and it starts up and runs fine. And at this point, with just a basic diagnosis and I haven't seen the car, he has, we can't be sure that the engine really has no compression, because of the order in which the cylinders fire and no one has opened it up yet." And "if you decide to tow the car up here, I'll be glad to pay for finding out what the problem is, but we're not responsible for the costs of repairs (out of warranties)."

    He agreed to call Hyundai of America district manager about any "goodwill discount" since the second owner, my mother, had thermostat replaced and a gallon of coolant added there at 36K miles along with a new timing belt, drive belts, engine flush, power steering flush, induction service, brakes checked...her complaint coming in was A/C was cool but not cold. She had AT fluid flushed there at 34K after buying the car. So when I hear back on goodwill discount yes or no, then we decide on repairing or replacing the engine, and at which location.

    I happily drive an '05 Elantra hatchback at 47K miles bought in April from original owner. The community comments I've read so far on overheated Elantras have been helpful. Thanks for your reading and comments to come.
  • Wow '57, that's sounds horrible! We've got the same '05 GT hatch as you but we're at 134,000 or so without a hitch thus far KNOCK ON WOOD (after reading your post!). Now admittedly, we drive 'er easy during the week across an interstate for commuting purposes and only drag race the Mustangs on Saturday nights, but the 2.0 Beta engine blowin' at 51k, sheesh! My buddy has the same '02 GLS that you speak of and he's at 175,000 on the odometer, again, without a hitch (Con't to knock on wood). He's one of the reasons we bought our Elantra in the first place. His lil' Elantra seemed to run really well and these things were several grand cheaper at purchase than the traditional [non-permissible content removed] entries in this segment. But my head spins...blown engine and a tried and true engine at 51,000 miles? Geez! Are the rest of you on here hearing similar cases like this one and how does one avoid this? Only reason I ask, we just bought an '09 SE (same lil' engine that could) to add to our fleet and I sure DON'T want this happening to this car!

    TIA 'backy and the rest of you edmunds Hyundai experts.
  • I have a 2002 Elantra GT hatch and experienced a faulty thermostat somewhere in the neighborhood of 65,000 miles, got it replaced for around $100, and no problems since *knock on wood as well*. I'm sitting at around 125,000 miles now and mainly using the littler feller as a commuting car to/from work.

    Not sure if this helps at all, but wanted to add my $0.02
  • OK... you have me worried now. Because of your car overheating at such a low mileage. My Toyota Tacoma didn't overheat until 120,000 miles and my stupid husband drove it with the thermostat shot. And I just ended up paying $800 at Midas for a new themostat, new water pump and a new radiator.

    What you are describing I never heard of. My husband has an 18 wheeler and he had over 900,000 miles before he had to have engine work done with blown head gaskets. And he paid 4 grand to have a used engine put in and all the head gaskets pulled and stuff. But his truck didn't overheat.

    My husband and I both have 2008 Elantras now. And I know we have the 100,000 mile 10 yr warranty. And we are the original owners but I sure hope this is not an Elantra thing.

    Backy...where are you to post to this? I know you know a lot about Elantras. Am I going to be sorry I bought one now?

    And to let everyone know. I have a silver Elantra. And my paint started peeling on the passenger side under the door. Right now it's being repainted. Be careful of your paint. I had a rock hit me too and it chipped off a chunk of paint which within 30 days started to rust on the side of the car over the summer. That's being fixed too with the peeling paint. :shades:
  • I need to replace the thermostat on my Elantra, but the wires to the coolant temperature sensor and to the sensor on the air filter box are in the way. I tried to disconnect those sensors, but I don't know how to unlock the connection. Do I need a special tool? or is there a "trick" to get them separated? Thanks in advance. :confuse:
  • backybacky Twin CitiesPosts: 18,941
    Don't worry. From what I've seen (e.g. in recent movies), the world will end in 2012, so any problems with our Elantras will seem pretty minor in comparison.

    Sorry, but let's maintain perspective here, OK? Cars do fail sometimes. What you have to look at is, how often does a particular model fail? The Elantra would not have racked up high marks in, for example, CR's reliability survey if it has major problems affecting a large percentage of vehicles. I've seen some pretty nasty reports on problems with the Civic. Does that mean it's an unreliable car, in general? No. But say if 1/2 of 1% of Elantras had a significant problem, that would still affect approximately 5,000 of the 2001+ Elantras sold in the US (assuming an average annual sales of 100k). That's a lot of posts on forums like this.

    Now, if the radiator+++ problem had happened to my Elantra and it had 51k miles on it and was well maintained (preferably by the dealer, so they could see I was a loyal customer) and still under the powertrain warranty, I would work for the repair to be covered--or at least a significant part of it. Technically it would not be covered under the powertrain warranty, but there is an implied warranty here that such a thing should not happen to a well-maintained car with so few miles on it. That is the point I would take up the chain with Hyundai.
  • The reservoir in My 2000 Elantra recently dumped a lot of coolant when I pulled into my driveway. I replenished the coolant (50/50), and took it Meineke for oil change and check-up. The shop didn't find a problem, saying the pressure was fine, and there was no leak, but by the time I got home (5 miles), all the coolant was gone, and the engine was getting hot. Then I took it to a Napa Auto Care center, and within few minutes, they said the termostat was stuck, and needed to be replaced, ($165 charge). My first question is how can they be sure of the cause? Because I don't think they could have removed the cover to check that fast. My second question is should I attemt to do it myself, as I understand the thermostat is not that expensive?
  • 57, sounds like you ran hot for what ever reason and blew a head gasket. If your car engine is in time and still will not starting up you probably do not have enough compression to run the engine. Based on the information you have posted and if it were my vehicle, I would pull the engine head, have it checked and resurfaced and replace the head gasket. You could do this yourself for a very small fraction of what a professional mechanic would charge you. You must determine if your car is worth the repair cost. Sounds to me like it probably is worth repairing.

  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,242
    I would stay in contact with the Hyundai guy. There were several incidents regarding thermostat failure on Elantra's of this generation, and many were warranteed by Hyundai. Especially since your engine is still under 60K miles, you may have a strong argument.

    And the failure is just as you and others here have described. Cruising along without a care in the world, and the thermostat breaks and blocks all coolant flow. When this happens on a fully warm engine at highway speeds, you have seconds to react before things get ugly. Sad fact of aluminum heads, they don't like heat, and they heat up fast.

    Good luck.
  • Thanks all for comments on 2002 Elantra overheated engine at 51,000 miles, repair or replace engine? Two local, independent shops recommend installing a low miles used engine, not repairing engine. One said: "He got only 30 p.s.i. after
    adding oil to cylinder? I know that shop. That means bottom-of-the-engine damage, more than a blown head gasket... you're better off with a used engine." Hyundai Wash. D.C. area district manager hasn't yet called back the service manager where 36K service was done for second owner about any "goodwill" costs coverage for this out-of-warranties car. I'll work up the line with HOA for covering some costs, have a used engine with warranty put in by our usual shop. A nearby dealer wants $400 to tear down and diagnose and also favors used engine v. repair. Most important part here is my daughter and son weren't injured. Secondly, Elantras are usually reliablep; this car's condition makes it worth repairing v. salvaging. A good Thanksgiving to all. Stay tuned. '57.
  • I just bought a 09 elantra with about 10-11 months old, the exhaust manifold(the part that attaches to the engine) looks very rusty and almost redish, is that normal? wondering if the previous owner replaced it with crapy parts..

    also, is there a way to tell if the engine is the factory engine, not a replacement?
  • espo35espo35 Posts: 144
    It's normal. Cast iron rusts. In another 20,000 years it might become an issue.
  • I don't have my manual. A warning light and a sound indicator just came up on my dashboard. It's white, it's a vertical line with squiggly dashes coming off the the right and wavy lines underneath the whole thing. Can anyone identify this for me?
  • What year is your Elantra? The description sounds a *little* like either a temperature warning, or a Tire Pressure Monitor warning - BUT - they (I don't believe) existed together on the same model - The temp warning doesn't appear on newer models, and the TPM warning only exists on newer models...
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,242
    I looked up the warning indicators for a '01-'06 Elantra and cannot find one to match your description. Where is the indicator in the instrument panel in relationship to the speedometer?
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,242
    uhmmm, that would be the coolant temperature indicator. If it is on, you have a problem, either overheating or loss of coolant, or indicator failure. If it has been on for a while, and the engine is still running okay, you better get it checked out like immediately!

    Sorry I didn't pick up on this initially. All my vehicles use gauges and it wasn't until this morning that I noticed the symbol you describe as being below the needle movement of my temp gauge.
  • kagedudekagedude Posts: 407
    Hi all. My sister's 2004 Hyundai Elantra GLS engine with 75k miles hit a light pole on the front left side with the reflector coming off and the fender scratched while coming out of a parking spot. A day after, she was driving on the highway at 70mph and it started losing compression, engine stalled and to make the long story short, the mechanic is now looking for a rebuilt engine.

    I'm just a little confused as to why the engine would be damaged just like that? I'm not engine technical but from what my sister told me, the mechanic said oil leaked (?) into the crankshaft damaging the engine block? Would someone that is more versed on this subject be able to explain?

    What is on the front left side of a Hyundai Elantra that might be sensitive and cause a domino effect reaction that will damage the engine?

  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,242
    I would bet he said oil leaked OUT OF the oil pan, damaging the crankshaft (and the rest of the engine, for that matter). Only an inspection would show if some portion of the light pole base damaged the oil pan, but based on the incident as you explained it, that is probably what happened. The oil pressure light would have been coming on to indicate loss of oil.

    If she has comprehensive/collision insurance, she needs to contact her agent. As the engine damage is the result of an accident, she *might* be able to file a claim. Be prepared, the insurance company may use the argument that by driving the car while damaged she caused additional engine damage.
  • kagedudekagedude Posts: 407
    Thanks for the explanation! Wouldn't the loss of oil cause the engine to overheat? I asked her about that and she didn't notice if the temp gauge was up at the time the car lost compression on the highway.

    Unfortunately, she only has liability on the car and its out of warranty. :sick:
  • stephen987stephen987 Posts: 1,994
    Loss of oil would probably cause damage due to excessive wear on the pistons, rings, and other internal components before she would notice any change in engine temperature.
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,242
    Yep, oil loss will kill the engine before it has time to overheat, unless it is a really worn engine (loose). I am surprised she didn't get an oil warning light, though. Then again, I know way too many people that don't notice/pay attention to/understand what those lights mean when they come on. :sick:
  • I have a 2002 elantra, recently the clutch is slipping, it goes in to gear fine, but when I release the clutch it feels like it isnt fully released if that makes sense, you know where the RPMs race then it eventually is fine it isnt horrific yet, the person I purchased the car from said they had the "clutch pins" replaced?? anyway, how can I differentiate what is wrong between clutch flywheels, and cables, etc...I have a good mechanic but I looked through some comments earlier, and the dealer suggestion was good with respect to repairs being warrentied for a while....I dont know how much more life I have in the clutch would love to hear some advise I know what ever I have to do will not be cheap but the car is in really great shape and has 120.000+ miles on it so no complaints really...just need some honest feedback or advise
    thank you
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,242
    First off, I have been working on cars for a long time, and have no idea what a "clutch pin" is. If the car has 120K on it with the original clutch, it probably needs a clutch. Now, when replacing a clutch, the friction plate, clutch pressure plate, and throw-out bearing should all be replaced. Each of these has 120K miles on them, and all are removed to replace the friction plate (which is where your problem is. Just like brake pads/shoes, this is a wear item, and it has done its job). With regard to the flywheel, these are not replaced unless the clutch has been slipping to the point of scarring the metal deeply. If only lightly scored, you do the same as you would with a brake rotor/drum, just lightly machine it to get a good surface for the new clutch friction plate. If there is no scoring at all, and the surface is in good condition, you don't do anything with it.

    Cost wise, yeah, not cheap. The transaxle must be removed to replace the clutch. And this is something you need to get done before you get into a situation where you need to get the car moving in a hurry, because with a worn clutch that isn't going to happen. Get bids for the work. I have heard of several incidences where the dealer was actually cheaper than private garages for this repair, and you get a warranty to boot. Good luck.
  • Has anyone ever removed the oil pan if so how hard is it
  • jacktbjacktb Posts: 41
    Hi Folks. It's your uncle Jack here with the results of my 60,000 mile timing belt replacement examination.

    First, the vehicle:

    2005 Elantra GLS auto
    Miles: 67,000
    Purchase date: 10.2004
    Date replaced: 1.2010
    Area: Chicago - 0 degrees in winter to 90+ in summer.
    Average usage: Mostly short hop school commutes. City/hwy ratio 75/25. Teenage driver not afraid of a speed limit.
    Overall wear rating: With 1 being babied (like my cars) and 10 being a taxi cab, I would rate the use of this vehicle at a solid 8.

    I had the technician save the belt for me. At first glance, I thought he gave me a new one. That's how good this thing looks. Closer examination using a magnifying glass shows little, if any, visible deterioration. Rubber is supple, there are no cracks in it at all, and IMO it appears this belt would last significantly longer than 60,000 in any vehicle under any conditions.

    I have three of these vehicles and will not hesitate to take them to 90,000 with the original belt. Furthermore, I can find little data of any failures at the 60-90 thousand mile range except for old models where age comes into play. Furthermore, since my original posts last August, I have checked the used car market here in Chicago for this generation model. Many are for sale in the 80-100 thousand mile range running the original belt. I think this is because either most people are not as aware of maintenance as we are or they just don't want to pay the $1,000+ plus for the service in our area (which is the topic of another thread I will be posting).

    I hope this sheds a little light on the situation. It's just my car guy opinion. --Jack

    PS: I was unable to copy and paste a couple photos, so if anyone can give me a tip on how to add them to the post I would appreciate it. Thanks.
  • fushigifushigi Chicago suburbsPosts: 1,459
    It's great that the belts are durable. Regardless, people need to replace the timing belts and do other scheduled service to maintain the portion of the powertrain warranty that relates to the belt. Hyundai would be within their rights to deny warranty coverage if it can be shown that the owner neglected the maintenance schedule.

    As an aside, for those who can occasionally claim mileage expense/reimbursement and get the federal rate, this is why the allotment for mileage is so much higher than just covering gas; it's meant to cover all operating expenses which include maintenance.
    2017 Infiniti QX60 (me), 2012 Hyundai Elantra (wife)
  • backybacky Twin CitiesPosts: 18,941
    Thanks for that report! I will be changing the belt on my 2004 Elantra GT at 60k miles, only because it will still be under the 10 year powertrain warranty at that time, so if there is any problem I want it to be covered. But 60k miles will likely not come until the car is 8 years old, or in another 2 years. I feel better now about waiting for 60k miles. I live in the Twin Cities, where the weather is not much different from Chicago (maybe a little colder in the winter). And on the 1-10 scale, I'd put my car at about a 4, and that's only because I don't get her out on long trips much.
  • jacktbjacktb Posts: 41
    Glad you found my grass roots research helpful! I believe that's the best use of this board, to get real world information.

    In addition, my online research of various similar forums and used car ads has turned up dozens of posts on this topic. The vast majority of them have the original belt at 80,90,100 thousand miles with one guy in a 2004 at 168,000! The posts that have it failing before 60,000 are usually tied to an internal engine problem that causes misalignment or abnormal pulley tension.

    My conclusion is that if your motor has run problem free for 60,000 miles, the chances of the timing belt failing at that point are very minimal. I will not hesitate run my 2006 to 90,000 to perform the same belt inspection and report.

    Hopefully I can ease someone's mind to buy a little time if money is tight and they can't swing the replacement cost for a while. --Jack
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,242
    Not to mention the timing belt replacement interval for the same car sold in California is 100K. Don't know why, possibly some consumer legislation?
  • jacktbjacktb Posts: 41
    Thanks for reminding me of that fact. I wanted to add the following:

    If this belt was not designed to last 100K+, the Internet posts would be full of people getting this replaced under warranty in CA. In fact, it's difficult to find any posts stating pre-100K failure anywhere, with the occasional rare exceptions mentioned previously.

    Considering there must be hundreds of thousands of these cars in CA, I'd like to hear some of their experiences.
  • backybacky Twin CitiesPosts: 18,941
    Considering there must be hundreds of thousands of these cars in CA...

    You must be thinking of the Civic, or Corolla. ;)
  • jacktbjacktb Posts: 41
    Maybe one too many zeros on that number.

    Still a bunch, though!
  • I had my 03 Elantra GT timing belt and it too looked like it would go another 60k. Also, I now have a little over 96k and have yet to replace my brake pads. I will check them again tomorrow but they just seem to go and go and go Got rear ended by an 18 wheeler about 4 years ago and it got repaired (about 6k in damage), and car is just fine. Took quite a wallop, enough to brake an engine mount.. Only had the A/C compressor go and the radiator. The radiator developed a crack along the top plastic section. Did the replacement myself. All in all, not a bad car. Motor on.
  • jacktbjacktb Posts: 41
    Good to hear some additional feedback. This timing belt issue has become a pet project of mine. I'd like to gather as much data as possible and appreciate the input.

    I was also rear ended in my '05 Elantra four years ago. Had 5K in damages but all has been fine after the repairs. I would have to agree that these cars can take a punch! --jack
  • sakhisakhi Posts: 4
    Hello everyone, i've just been introduced to this site as i've been experiencing problems with noisy hydraulic lifters which i've replaced 3 times already. Could anyone please shed some light on this as mechanics can't seem to get it right! Thanks.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,490
    Of course I don't know any of the details, but it's pretty near impossible for 3 sets of lifters to be defective out of the box. My guess is that something else is damaging these lifters. Has anyone checked camshaft wear, or the oil pump?
  • sakhisakhi Posts: 4
    Evening Mr Shiftright, well i've got 300k's on de clock and as for the oilpump i've changed it once with the hydraulic lifters; so at 1st it goes quiet and then after a month or so it goes back to being a tractor (noisy lifters) i'm not sure what the cause could be but i've been adviced that i should use heavier or richer oil thou! And as for the camshaft its a bit weary on 1 side and the machenic adviced that i get another 1 coz other holders are a bit loose as well which i think that will result in wearing off the lifters. And i've been experiencing long starting; as it takes much longer than usual for the car to start and i have to start and hold the key until it start and this happens regardless of the time of day or weather temp as well. Or by the way sorry for the late reply; Sakhi!
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,490
    I'm not very keen on running new lifters with an old camshaft. Maybe a synthetic oil would help here....with an engine of such extreme mileage, it's hard to say about bearing health as well...oil pressure is dependent on bearing wear, not on the oil pump itself.
  • simmsimm Posts: 6
    I have an 07 Hyundai Elantra GLS with about 41,000 miles on it. I had the brakes inspected by a tire place and they told me they are still good. I'm not having any issue with the breaks but I was under the impression that Hyundai's brakes wear out fairly quickly. I just dont want to wait to long and possibly cause damage to the rotars or anything else. Your suggestions are much appreciated.
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,242
    Brake wear is one of those things where your mileage certainly may vary! A good driver who does gentle stops with the majority of the mileage on the highway can get amazing mileage out of a set of pads. On the other end of the spectrum, hard stop and go driving can wear brake pads much more quickly, and in far fewer miles.

    That being said, the only time I felt that the pads on an Elantra seemed to wear quickly was on a '05 GT that was driven, shall we say, in a spirited fashion? :shades: The rear pads on a GT were small and non-metallic, hence the faster wear. Just check for pad thickness when changing the oil or rotating the tires. The pads will not just suddenly "disappear" unless some other failure has occured such as a stuck caliper. If the brakes are smooth and even with a good firm pedal, enjoy the ride.
  • Didn't do the "brake job" 'til 100k on our '05 GT (all hwy miles of course and driven like a 70mph for the most part...back and forth...back and forth). Closing in on 140k now and she's doing fine. Like you said, it's how ya drive...or WHO is doing the driving. Kid's turning 16 here shortly. Oh noooooo! :surprise:
  • simmsimm Posts: 6
    Thanks for all the help
  • backybacky Twin CitiesPosts: 18,941
    I called my local Hyundai dealer today to check on the price for the 60k service on a 2001-6 vintage Elantra (it's a long story why I needed to ask them). I about bruised my jaw on the desk when the service guy said, casually, "$1099". He said half of that was the timing belt replacement. Now, I know the 60k service is a big one, but THAT big?? Has anyone had this service done recently, where did you have it done (dealer or not), and what did it cost? Thanks!

    BTW, Edmunds has the cost for this service at about $480, but they didn't include replacing the transmission fluid, which is recommended at 60k. But still a LOT less than $1100.
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,242

    I just picked up my 2010 Elantra Touring SE. Note that this is the same 2.0L engine Hyundai has used since what, 2001? The timing belt change interval is now 90K miles for normal driving, 60K for harsh. My guys here say just under $500 for the timing belt. The tranny fluid is easy as there is no filter to change. $1100 seems pretty steep to me.

  • fushigifushigi Chicago suburbsPosts: 1,459
    My wife's '01 GLS is at 74ish K miles. She paid for the 60K service but I don't recall it being anywhere near that. Maybe somewhere in the $600s.

    FWIW she does her other maintenance - oil changes and whatnot - at a Meineke that's within walking distance of our house. They can do the full scheduled maintenance including timing belt. I'm normally a proponent of dealer service as my experience has shown it to be just marginally more expensive but in your case you definitely should call around.
    2017 Infiniti QX60 (me), 2012 Hyundai Elantra (wife)
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