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Comments
More harm than good comes from this.
Gas cap is NOT supposed to be venting, otherwise you would have a 'cloud' of fumes on a hot day, which is environmentally not friendly and also downright dangerous. It should be some gas pressure in the tank. It might have some pressure relieve valve.
There's actually a whole bunch of things they are supposed to do when they prep the cars. Many times, parts of the electrical system will be disabled during shipping. I once test drove a CR-V that had no radio or interior lights because they hadn't finished the prep work. Luckily it did have brake lights.
Second, pay for your own investigation of the vehicle. If you're going to take action, don't expect good will from the people you are going after.
Third, don't let it be written off by your isurance. Once you allow that, the issue is pretty much out of your hands.
Fourth, be prepared to lose. Not because I expect you will. Just be open to that possibility.
Keep us posted.
Good luck on your claim. Hopefully no one was hurt?
Steve
Couldn't help but notice....
PLEASE REPORT TO NHTSA, (NHTSA.gov) You can do it online. Takes about two minutes. Put ALL the information there - any recent service, etc. At some point NHTSA will have to initiate some sort of investigation. In fact, I have already requested it. This helps my case and helps yours
If you would allow me to email you privately, I would like to do that.
Also, let your insurance company know there are others on the NHTSA. You can get free reports, but most of the info is actually available straight on-line. The reports look more official, but they only tell you a few extra things.
I have filed my suit. Certainly another will not hurt. Was this your first o/c? I still say the same thing as I have said before. If this is just an o/c problem, why are we seeing them only on 03's and why only at about the first o/c? The 02's are identical and there have been thousands of o/c's done on them without incident. Don't give up, and assume it is related to the o/c. If it cost me 2k, it is likely to cost you more. At least I had a somewhat cooperative dealer. Don't let them tell you it is "undetermined" If it was a bad o/c it should be fairly easy to determine. Please keep everyone informed. One more suggestion. Go to where the car is now and TAKE PICTURES
I am glad you found my post. I was hoping to hear from you. I have changed my profile to show my e-mail address. When I hear from you, I will change it back. I would love to compare notes with you.
I will put the complaint in with the NHTSA (probably early next week).
At last... somebody gives very important clue.
During the Subrina's fire discussion several times I wanted to ask her what kind of smell
she heard before the fire - electrical and oil fires should have different smells.
Looks like we have an OIL problem.
Remarkable: ALL FIRES HAPPENED AFTER OIL CHANGED AT DEALERSHIPS!!!
So I have some (speculative of course) ideas:
I changed oil in my EX twice : 1st - at the dealership, 2nd - myself.
When you do smth yourself you see lots of things which otherwise you don't.
I noticed that Honda instructions advise you to use special TOOL not only to unscrew oil filter
(which is normal) but ALSO when screw in a new one back(?). Everybody who had ever changed oil himself knows that manuals specifically recommend NOT to overtighten filter and turn it BY HAND about 3/4 after filters's gasket touches block surface. Honda recommends to use a tool and gives a torque value (very small). I was surprised, but I did as Honda recommended. Location of CRV's oil filter is inconvenient - many people complained about it.
You normally do not see the filter and do change "by touch", you may spill hot oil on the floor,the frame, etc., and, of course, you do not want to stick you FACE close to oil filter.
Well, at my post #11686 I described an easy way to avoid any spills: just leave oil to drip overnight through the oil plug hole and do not touch the filter. Next day not much oil left inside
the filter and you can safely (but quickly) unscrew it, protecting it with a small peace of paper rug
-no spills.
While I was doing it (next day), I found another remarkable thing: Wearing glasses I stuck my
face close to the filter and I saw a thin 'ring' of oil around the gasket. Sides of the filter was
also oily and had a white color (like milk) - when water mix with oil we have white emulsion.
In other words, I had a small oil leak near the filter gasket and the LAST change of oil was made at the DEALERSHIP!! Oh those professionals! (You don't wanna watch how they service your car).
Also they left the old (factory) metal oil plug gasket in place (it was black painted) - you supposed to change it @ every oil change (it's not very important but it's telling you something - they are cutting corners!)
After changing oil filter I had a test ride and then double checked the surface next to the filter - it was clean. I did that again in a week - it was clean. It was before the Sabrina's fire but I used common sense - oil leak might start a fire.
O'k, in short, I believe people at the dealership did not tighten filter properly, did not check it
after a ride (if they had any) and that might start the fire.
What do you think?
I had brake work done and the noise stopped.
The front rotors were warped which had nothing
to do with the clicking but it was shuddering
from the front.The dealer said the rear pads
were misaligned.So the bottom line is if you just bought your V and it is clicking then insist the dealer check out the rear brakes.
Maybe if you complain early enough they might
cover it under warranty.The work I had done was not.It costs $424 for turning front rotors,replacing front pads,replacing brake fluid,adjusting rear pads.Other than brakes it has been flawless.Eat your heart out Detroit.
varmint "Honda CR-V Owners: FAQ" Nov 25, 2003 1:25pm
But today light is on again and GoodYear guy tell me it is still EVAP problem. He suggest me go to dealer cause it is still covered by warranty.
I made a appointment with dealer but it is next Monday. I am just wondering is this problem serious? Cause I have a trip in the following two days. Can I drive this car with check engine light on? Will it hurt my car?
I am totally new with this situation. Hope you guys can give me some suggestion. Thanks a lot.
No blinking, go on your trip and enjoy without woory. The EVAP code if it is a P1456 is probably just a loose gas cap and if a P1457 then probably a bad canister vent solenoid. Either way evap problems will not cause you any problems on your trip...
I have a 2004 CR-V, and noticed the windshield wipers are pretty slow, even on the high mode.
Can the dealership adjust this. Anybody else have this problem? Thanks.
I keep my tire pressure @ 34 PSI.
I do 5 - tire rotation every 7K.
If you would do it @10K, like manual recommends, the whole cycle would NOT be
completed at - 35K , which is the life expectancy of CR-V tires.
Lets call initial location of tires like this (clock wise):
1 = Front left
2 = Front right
3 = Rear right
4 = Rear left
5 = Spare
During 5 tire rotation I move:
5 to 3
3 to 1
1 to 4
4 to 2
2 to 5.
(please draw a diagram for clarity).
Follow the same routine every 7K and the full cycle will be completed in five rotations (5 x 7K = 35k, all tires will be at their initial positions).
Benefit of tire rotation: tires wear more evenly.
Drawback: rotation would mask the suspension defect if you have one.
I do balance all tires (including the spare) every 15K.
Balancing is important especially if you have aggressive style of driving.
The 5-tire rotation is much easier to do then the 4-tire rotation.
Another advantage - all your tires would wear off at the same time and you free to buy a new set
(of 5 tires) of any brand or type you like.
Meanwhile... This link has a tire rotation plan if you scroll down about 3/4 of the way.
http://www.bridgestone-usa.com/warranty/warr8.htm
Kizhe - The Duelers have a tread life of 30-40k miles, but the BF Goodrich tires (the other OEM tire) last longer. Most get at least 40k miles.
Has anyone else had this problem?
Left Front to Left Rear
Left Rear to Right Front
Right Rear to Left Front
Right Front to Spare
Spare to Right Rear
And I also draw a diagram.
I am new to this...I am considering buying a 2004 CRV-EX... comparing it to the Saturn Vue...can anyone tell me the difference between Hondas multi-port fuel Injected system ,and Saturns Sequential Electronic Fuel Injected System? Also, has anyone been able to get leather upholstery on their CRV? And MPG is listed at 22 city is that pretty acquerate? thanks, Bee
I had just ran into an odd problem regarding the hvac controls on my 2002 cr-v. Although this is an intermittent prob, it happened twice on the same day.
I turned on the fan on the lowest setting with the a/c off. But when i go to turn on the a/c, it refuses to turn on. The light doesnt go on at all. I keep trying to turn it on. Then the a/c lights start to flicker and I could hear the compressor turn on and off along with the light. But when I turn on the fan to a higher setting, the a/c stays on. Probably something regarding the computer? (if there is one for the HVAC)
Although this has gone away i think (i havent drove it for a while), I was just wondering if anyone else has this problem.
It happened during hot and humid weather. Fan was at MIN. A/C stopped working and I saw white vapor cloud
coming from it. I figured that if you would not give enough fan blow (at MIN fan is OFF) - system would freeze and shuts off. I waited, moved fan to medium position and it started working like it should. I never had that problem again.
Model: 2004 CRV-EX
On page 72 of the owner's manual is written:
"To unlock the driver's door from the outside, turn the key and release it."
That of course works fine, but then it reads:
"If you turn the key and hold it, all doors and the tailgate unlock. All four doors and the tailgate unlock when you use the key in the
passenger's door."
The last two statements do not work! Is this a feature that should work?
Am I missing something?
Thanks for your advice!
purchased replacements for a 2002 or newer CR-V? I've looked at the tire rack, but they recommend the OE tire. What B.F. Goodrich or Michelin tires have been used?
But...there is something wrong with the brakes. I hear thumping or clicking noise when I stop at a red light, with my foot on the brake pedal. I hear grinding noise when I turn the steering wheel, with my foot on the brake pedal (as in doing a K-turn). Sometimes, my car seat and steering wheel vibrates while stopping at a red light, when my engine is in drive and foot on brake.
I've read other CRV owners have the same problem with brake noise, is this a recurring theme or mine happens to be the 'imperfect' one? Any suggestions? I brought my car in to the dealer and they said I need to leave it for a day. Since I will be without a car for a day, should the dealer give me a loaner for the day, since this is a brand new car?
Also, when looking at the front tire, I was surprised to be able to see the inside of my car and the other side!!! Based on my past experience, I thought the area by the two front tires should be sealed by a black plastic panel (or wheel aligner, not sure if that's the correct term) to prevent snow, salt and debris from getting into the engine. This caused me great concern since I live in NY and we get pretty snowy winter and that I have seen snow and debris accumulate in that area-by the tires, against the roof of the wheel aligner. Has this cause any concern for anyone? As a matter of fact, this caused so much concern that I started to doubt as to whether I have purchased a quality car or not. My hubby thinks I am crazy. I am just not used to being able to see my engine from the outside, without opening the hood. I've looked at other older models (parked on the street) and saw that area was sealed. Why did Honda change the design? Won't the engine rust with salt and snow getting inside? I asked the dealer if there's any accessories/parts that I can purchase to seal that area off, he said no. I would like to hear what the owner CRV owners' thought on this. In addition, is there a brush guard for the car? Sometimes, I drive over a pile of snow, just want to make sure that the parts are well protected. Thanks for your feedback.
Carmen
Your brake condition sounds new to me. There was a chronic issue with clicking brakes, but your problem sounds very different.
As for the holes in the wheel wells, I would not worry about them. It seems like a common sense sort of thing (there are holes, it must be a problem), but I have never read of problems related to this design. It is also used on the Honda Civic.
FWIW, several "real trucks" like the Durango and others have similar holes. There's also that 10 sqaure foot "hole" under the engine that allows debris into the compartment.
If you are serious about getting the holes covered, I can direct you to a link where someone describes how to make your own "gaiters" for the CR-V. It's your call.
The first thing I did was empty EVERY compartment in the car. It is definitely not something INSIDE the cab/box/glovebox, etc.
My noise is absolutely underneath the car - not in the roof. I talked with the dealership and they said that there is a "heater pan" underneath the front seats and that sometimes they get a rock in them. I will be having that looked at at my 1st oil change.
It made the noise a lot one night last week but whatever it is has lodged and is quiet as a mouse right now.
Of course the dealership said that there's no way they can find what it is if they never hear it. Well, it's impossible to make it duplicate the sound once it's "settled".
I guarantee that the next time I hear that noise I am driving straight to the dealership - very gently so it doesn't settle down anywhere.
I truly believe that there is a loose bolt or screw somewhere.
It's odd that now there's 3 of them that we know about. I think it's very strange that my neighbors car from the same dealership on the same weekend - does the same exact thing.
Thanks for any continuing input or insight.
L