Honda CR-V Maintenance and Repair

Karen_S

What problems have you experienced with your CRV? Please share any solutions!

KarenS
Host
Owner's Clubs

coolnik

When I take a U-Turn or a steep left or right turn I hear a noise from the rear wheels of the car. I got it checked at it was the brakes touching the wheels, the guy fixed it temporarily, but the problem keeps coming back after some driving. Has anyone else had this problem? I will try and get it checked at my dealership sometime soon, just wanted to check here before I did.

Thanks for any suggestions/comments
coolnik
'99 CRV

mikefm58

I've got a 1999 CRV LX with auto., 44000 miles, have not had one problem, never been back to the dealer for anything whatsoever, except normal maintenance.

varmit

I have a problem. My dealer doesn't know who I am! I have to get the routine maintenance done at their shop, otherwise they'd have no idea that I'm one of their customers.

99 EX
45K

tomp711

It's been an annoying problem since I got it (2000 EX, 5-spd)and I even had to file Lemon Law paperwork before it was "fixed". It was okay for about 5K miles but has slowly been developing a stronger pull again. I need to contact the dealer again . . . NOT looking forward to it. First Honda and it's a dissapoint in this respect.

varmit

Tomp711 - I think we may have discussed this before, but what you are experiencing is known as the dreaded PTTR (Pull To The Right). I can't recall what you've tried so far, so forgive me if this is redundant.

Some owners have corrected PTTR by having their tires rotated. Others have replaced the upper and lower control arms. Many have found that their dealer was out to lunch when Honda taught proper alignment specs.

Here's a pic. It may be too big for this format. If so, try this link.

Oh, and I'll also recommend that you find out how they "fixed" it the first time.

barnone

my 2001 EX also pulls to the right. gonna go to
the dealer this afternoon appointment. i hope
they could fix it before my long trip tomorrow.

jwaugh

We have just bought a CRV 2001 auto. Cruise control has mind of it's own works great 98% of time but once in awhile will kick down then refuses to release keeps rpm up ie @ about 70MPH will hold rpms at 5000 or so. Accelerating and letting off manually does not release cruise need to shut switch off. Had it back to dealer when picked up told I hah main switch off(expletive). Noone called to clarify?? Any similar experiences.

varmit

Could be the grade logic transmission at work. Were you going up hill during the times when it held a low gear?

jwaugh

Yes but that does not account for why it would not release, once it was past the need for more power and lower gear.

varmit

It's tough for me to say if this is normal behavior for the grade logic transmission because I have the 5 speed. If your CR-V refuses to upshift only when the cruise control is on, then you have a problem. I'd take it back to the dealer and have them take a look. However, if you are driving the same hills without the cruise and it does the same thing, then this is just a quirk of the GL transmission.

bobgordon

even on the slightest grade, the transmission senses this and will down-shift, raising the RPM to compensate for the extra load. It happens to me too, you wonder if she's going to blow! Sometimes you are better off letting up on the gas and waiting for it to shift back into gear. The system sometimes won't release it even if you get past the the load, or grade. It's the nature of the "V" beast. Sounds like a common concern.

jwaugh

Bobgordon and varmint. The downshift is not the problem it is the releasing after the downshift is no longer reguired. Mine does not hunt and usually does not downshift until it is required by the grade. Everything works as it should until the the need for more RPMs is long gone. I have left it to see how long it will hlod the RPM and it does it until I manually turn of the Cruise speeding up using the accelerator and then backing off does not aloow it to release. I have not been back to the dealer as it does not do it very often and I am waiting to see if something will simply quit working the will know where the problem is.

varmit

This is what I would recommend. Find a hill where you are able to repeat the problem. Set the cruise and drive up (making note of how the engine and transmission react). Then drive the same hill, at the same speed, but this time do not use the cruise control. You may have to do this a few times to be sure that you are maintaining a constant speed. If the car holds the same gear and repeats the behavior, then you have a problem with the transmission. If it does not repeat the behavior, then you should have the cruise control looked at.

I encourage you to do this as the cruise control does not in any way regulate rpms. That is the job of the on-board computer. Check this link for more info about cruise control in general. It references early model CR-V's, but maybe you'll recognize something helpful.

http://www.ptcruiserusa.com/hondasuv/crvix/underhood/Cruise_Control.htm

dudka

i have noticed that too. when i climb a hill while cruise is engaged, the tranny downshifts and then when i have already climbed to the top it still hold the gear until i have been drving on the level ground for at least a minute, and when decending a hill while cruise is on, the tranny downshifts again to slow me down

sonnyb7799

Just bought a new CR-V. But when I about to drive off the lot, I checked the engine and it was full of dusts and spider webs. Isn't the dealer should clean and make it look new upon delivery? I want to do it myself but I think dealers have some special tools and compounds to clean the engine area. Would anybody know about this process and what kind of washer they use? Thanks.

barnone

what MY is your cr-v? how long has it been sitting
in the dealer's lot/garage/basement?

sonnyb7799

It's manuf date was 01/2001 and I suppose its been on the lot for a while...

varmit

Take it back and have them detail it for you. The car is supposed to be prepped for delivery. That includes a certain amount of cleaning. Typically, they wouldn't need to clean the engine bay, but this obviously isn't a typical situation. It's a relatively easy job for them, so be nice and make them see it as a way to make a happy customer into an even happier one.

dudka

spider web in the engine bay, i hope you got a good deal on it. if it has been sitting there since february, i would question why no one bought it. i bought mine in june and it was made on may 17th (or 15th) of this year. i basically took it off the boat.

theracoon

I've got a 99 CRV and accidentally broke off the knob that you would lift up to fold the back seat down. Anyone know how to get the remaining piece off and where to find a replacement?

The one on top of the seat back next to the head rest that you pull up to flip the seat back forward?

It screws on, so use a pair of needle nosed pliers to grab the remaining piece to unscrew it. Get the part from your local Honda dealer. They knob only runs about $3.50. Ordering it online doesn't make sense because you'd have to pay for shipping.

Good luck.

anna223

I love Honda's, and bought my 2000 CR-V a little over a year ago after driving my 90 Civic into the ground! A week after I bought the car though, it started stalling on me. I took it in to the dealer and they found it was a bad igniter and replaced it. Now, over a year later, while driving home from a business trip, the car stalled out on me on the interstate! 50 miles from home. This time it was the Ignition Coil. The dealer said that while the screws where tight, you could spin the wire around. They could not tell me how this could have happened. They say that maybe when the work was done with the igniter it was done poorly, but why did it take a year for the problem to show up? They fixed that and sent me on my way. 10 miles later, the engine light went on. Now they say its the catalitic converter (SP?) which was contaminated with gas during the problem mentioned above. They say the car is fine and I could drive it another 10 years with the engine light on like that, but I am having them replace the c-converter none the less. Is this a sign that I am going to have problems with this car forever??? I am in disbelief at this point, because I truly believe that Honda makes a great car, but what the heck! I can't have a car that dies on me on the interstate! Anyone have a similar experience?

varmit

Sounds like your car is fine. It's your dealer that needs replacing. The first problem seems to have led to a not-so-funny comedy of errors on the behalf of the mechanics. If the dealer is telling you that their staff messed up your catalitic, then they should be paying for it.

barnone

does honda come with a 3r/36kmi waranty? and
all honda dealers are mandated to perform those
if and when required?

so go to a dealer which could solve your problem
and tell us who the dealer is so we would avoid
them

jq2000

Can anybody tell me how to change the distribution rotor for my 1997 CRV? I could not figure out how to remove the old one from the distributor.

crashton6

If It's like all the other Honda's I've had, then it's got a set screw holding the darn thing on.

jq2000

Yes, there is a screw but I could not access it as there is a dust cover above it and I do not know how to remove that plastic black cover above the screw.

THanks

atlas1025

not only does my car pull toward right - it now vibrates when fully stopped at the light, i can feel it from the driver seat... can anything else be affected by the bad alignment?

robertr4

Hi Folks,
I recently bought a 2001 CRV LX but without
keyless entry. It costs an extra $350(?)from
the dealership. I've seen handa accessories.com
selling it for $66 (apparently, the receiver in
the car is factory-installed in all CRVs). All
you need is to buy the transmitter and program it.
Is this true? I wonder how one CRV will be uniquely unlocked by a generic transmitter. Thanks
for any help!! - Robert

mikefm58

I picked up a remote on ebay for $15.00 and programmed it, piece of cake. If you can't find one on ebay, then buy the one for $66.00 and program it yourself, it's very easy.

rsav1

I have a CRV that lately has developed a strange whining noise from the right front tire.
My honda dealer says that this is a characteristic of the vehicle.
An independent mechanic said that it is a wheel bearing problem.
Has anyone else had any problems with a whining noise or wheel bearings?
Please post a reponse or email me privately at
brucenights@yahoo.com

robertr4

Just in case the new CRV gets a flat tire...where would you buy these things at reasonable prices..?
Thanks

dudka

why do you need a hydraulic jack? the scissor jack that comes with cr-v works fine. hydraulic jacks are heavier and can not be hidden away like the scissor jack. i only use hydraulic jacks when making repairs and i still use jack stands if i have to crawl under the car. i haven't had to use hydraulic so far, but i had to change a flat once, and the scissor jack worked fine for me.
you can get two types of hydraulic jacks a canister type -- small round jack that is telescopic but slow, or a lever type (one i got) that is bulky and heavy, but provides quick lift in two or more pumpings. i got mine long time ago when caldor was going out of business, but you can check out auto zone, pep boys, sears, home depot, strauss auto, napa, and bunch of other stores. you don't need a truck type jack since your car is not over 5000 lbs.

jkpierce

I need a new muffler for my 1997 CR-V, but don't want to pay the $550 quoted by the Honda Dealership. I was told by Midas (and others) that they don't have a muffler for the CR-V, but could "potentially" make an Accord muffler work.

Has anyone found a national chain that can (cost effectively) replace the CR-V muffler? Did they use a muffler designed for another Honda car?

Thanks!

varmit

Sorry. I haven't had to replace anything, yet.

dudka

you can try an aftermarket muffler for cr-v. i think a mugen double loop mufler is $300. i am have a hard time believeing that honda would charge $500 for just muffler replacement. i would make sure they are talking the muffler itself or the whole exhaust system. also, what you can do is buy the muffler from honda ($100 max) and have your local shop install it for $50 (max).

potenzaus

The engine noise is very noticeable above 2500 rpm on my 2001 CRV 4WD with 3000 miles. Is this normal to CRVs?

varmit

To a certain extent, yes, it is. One of the common complaints about the design is the fact that there is more road and engine noise than in other new cars. However, if you are now getting noises that you did not hear when you first got the car, then maybe something is wrong.

dudka

i think what you hear is the road noise, i noticed on mine that after first couple of thousand miles if i drove over a little more coarse pavement the noise increases substantially. there are peple out there who have replaced the rogognal tires with michellins or some other brand and cut down on the noise greately.

but seriously i have modified the stereo and now i don't even hear the wind.

check out my mods at http://www.blueiedgod.com/subs.html

or the whole page

http://www.blueiedgod.com

mikefm58

I have a strange brake problem with my 99 CRV with 49000 miles. When applying the brake for the first time going forward or reverse, I'll hear a loud click in the front end. Continuing in the same direction and applying the brake again, there is no click sound, things are good. Reversing direction and then applying the brake the first time in that direction and I'll hear the click. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

crashton6

I believe if you buy a genuine Honda Muffler that it comes with a lifetime warranty. You should look around as the price your dealer gave you seems high. I would not go to Midas or any other chain. The quality just isn't there in their products.

Chuck

copland

Just bought the 2002 CRV LX - I've noticed that the front doors need to be pulled pretty hard to fully close, the rear doors seem to latch easier. Also the interior door panels have a lot of flex in them. Just wondering if this is common to the CRV. Otherwise the car is great - good power, and quiet even at highway speeds.

01honvse

Hi folks,
I have a 2001 cr-v se and am looking for an add-on remote starter that will work happily with the existing remote entry system. Does anyone have any information on this? I'm going to install it myself and want to use the same key fob that came with the V. Is there a place where I can find the wiring diagram for the factory remote entry module? Any info is appreciated. Thanks.

spartanman2

mikefm58,

I hear you. Last night I noticed the exact same thing happening to my 99 EX automatic, for the first time. You described EXACTLY the same conditions under which it will "click". Any luck finding out the cause?......

mikefm58

I had to have the pads replaced a couple weeks ago, they also turned the rotors. Clicking sound is now gone. You may be able to fix it by simply readjusting and reseating the pads.

carnivalj

I can't remember where I read it - here or the CRVIX but someone else reported in the 2002 CRV that they could feel a vibration in the brake pedal when the windshield wipers were on. Well, I felt it too and was wondering if anyone knew what was causing this. I've had many Honda cars and I''ve never experienced this before. I it just that the wiper motor is thisclose to the brake pedal or is this something that should get checked out

rburnard

I too have felt it and in the past I have seen the post you're referring to although I can't remember where. Must be normal but it is kinda weird.

cslee6

I ordered a front tower brace for my 2001 CRV. The company charged my credit card but never sent the order. And it is impossible to get hold of him. Maybe he has caller id and for those he chooses to screw over he doesn't answer the phone. I've left messages, faxed, but still no answer, no confirmation, receipt, or UPS tracking #. The only time I talked to him was the day the charge posted to my account and he said that the order had shipped 'yesterday' and that I would get it in 3 days ground UPS. But it never came. I filed with the Better Busines Bureau and disputed with my credit card company. And according to some people on Hondasuv.com he (Jon Mandel aka Manb) has done this before. So do not do business with them!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

bpond

I have a 98 with 78K miles. Started with a check engine light with misfire codes. Continued to get worse. Finally diagnosed with poor compression in cyl#4 and dealer is recommending a head replacement. I would prefer to only replace what is necessary, (won't know for sure until head is actually removed). I have set up a case with Honda but I was informed yesterday that they will not participate in the repair costs. I BOUGHT A HONDA SO I WOULD NOT HAVE TO FACE THESE KIND OF REPAIRS AT SUCH A LOW MILEAGE. My guess is that since the dealer is insisting on a head they must have heard something. I have found other sites where a handfull of owners have had similar symptoms that led to the dealer replacing a head. Any one else have the same problems?

Bob

gamesue

I own a 2001 CRV, which has a strange noise coming from the driver's side door. Whenever
I stop or take off from a dead stop I get this creaking noise. Has anyone else experienced?
this type of problem.

mesoman

I have a '99 CR-V. After a timing belt replacement at 95K, I noticed that the engine was running a little rough when idling. When cold weather arrived, I had stalling problems. The service dept at the dealer checked out the timing belt job and found all to be OK. They noticed the rough idle, but could not figure it out and returned the V to me. I drove from IL to ID and the Check Engine light came on about halfway there. In the home stretch, the light began to flash, and the engine really struggled to stay alive when idling. I called the local dealer in Pocatello (my new home), and he said "Bring it in...NOW!". They had a very seasoned Honda mechanic on duty. He suspected valves out of adjustment. Cyl #4 had low compression. It turned out be be a burned valve. They pulled the head, replaced a couple of valves (but NOT the head). It now runs like new, but it cost me $880 vs the $1000 they estimated.

Bottom line...the mechanic said I could have avoided this problem if I had the valves adjusted every 30K or so. Costly lesson. The adjustment only cost about $90. The dealership in IL never suspected the valves. Would have been nice to know this before I started on a 1500 mile trip.

My CR-V is at 108K now and going strong. This is the only problem I have ever had.