Honda CR-V Maintenance and Repair

scname

same thing here. I assume its the same with every 02V. I'd like to hear from those 02,03 owners whose V doesn't hesitate when you re-accelerate.

soasoas

My '02 V does the same thing. I encounter a slight hesitation when I quickly accelerate from a complete or rolling stop. I've found I can avoid this if I am patient and wait a second or two following a complete stop. The trick here is for me to learn how to do a complete stop (Driver's Ed. was 2 decades ago - ouch)!

djg4312

Mine doesn't so much hesitate as what I can only call slip. Hard to describe, but it feels like there is a delay in the tranny downshifting to first. Then suddenly it downshifts, and "catches".

dtruong8

Hello everyone,

I have previously mentioned a while ago about the noise in my 2002 CR-V, coming from the rear driver's side.

I have suspected that the body has somehow been weakened and thus, causing these creaks and groans as weight shifts towards that side.

Hopefully, I took my car to the dealer and explained to them everything. They simply tightened the suspension bolts/screws but to no avail.

I have read in motortrend that their long-term Altima had noises coming from that area also, but the window caused it. I tried opening the windows while driving but yet the same thing occurs.

To this day, I wonder what the noise is coming from and why. Anyone else notice this on theirs?

mush2

I have a 02 CRV (3000 miles) Has any one used the Fumoto oil drain valve from fumotovalve.com or any other drain valve?

Has any one used synthetic oil? any recommendations??

Great site, I'm glad I found it...

Mush2

reed4

Mush2

We have an 02 CR-V EX Auto and I did my first oil change at 4550 miles. Changed to Amsoil synthetic and a Wix filter. Gas mileage immediately went up 2mpg for both city and highway. Also had a recent high of 28mpg (100% highway) coming home from vacation. Amsoil gets my vote!

Reed

hungshy

Looks like most of problems come out after model 2000 cr-v. isn't it odd to see?

rerenov8r

...are going to bother posting about 3+ year old vehicles???

I doubt the newer ones are more problematic, just more owners who are likely to go on-line.

inkie

What weight Amsoil synthetic did you change to?

reed4

I went with the 5-20.

Ordered directly from their web site.

http://www.amsoil.com/

Reed

pbose

Our car has 27K miles on it and the maintenance required light seems to be on even though the car seems to be running very well. Also, the car has be serviced by the local dealership about 1000 miles ago.

Is this a common problem with other CRV owners? Please comment. Thanks in advance.

kyfdx

most likely, it wasn't reset at time of service. You can do it yourself. tells you how in the manual, or just stop back by the dealer and have them do it....takes 15 seconds. It comes on strictly my mileage on the odometer. It doesn't mean something is wrong with your car. It starts flashing 2000 miles before service is due on the 10000 mile interval.

gary_william

I hear a ticking noise right behind my head on the drivers side. I have determined that it is the door seal and trim which are making the noise, and it is exaggerated in the winter due to the materials contracting. I will try a little hot glue to hold it in place, or else shim it from the inside. This may be the noise you are hearing, or it may not be. can you describe the noise? is it a high pitched noise, a low rub, a screech? does it sound like it is coming from up high or low? have you put someone in the back seat to ride with you and try to find it, or you get in back since you know what it sounds like and let someone else drive? I am hyper-sensative about interior noises and it took me a few days to find the loose door seal, but now that I know what it is it doesn't bother me as much.

rlei

I once had some anoying noise from the aft of driver side, after a few days I was so certain that it must be the rear suspension and got a bit mad this happened to a two years old Civic. A few days later, I suspected it might have something to do with the child seat so I switched the child seat to the other side and the noise went away.

I was so sure it was the suspension ......

inkie

Thanks for your response, I am going to order some oil from this site and give it a try.

reed4

Please keep us posted on you results.

I know mine is well broken in now but it's definitely running stronger and more efficiently than when it was new and on the "break-in" oil.

Reed

topcut

I have narrowed it down to these two...after hearing some of these problems,,,wondering if I should just buy the Suzuki.....

dtruong8

Thanks for the input everyone.

To describe the noise in more detail, it seems to be emanating from the upper part of the door. It is loud enough to even hear from the front passenger seat. It is rather a rub, occurring only when certain weight is shifted towards the driver's rear side.

I checked the seals around the door already. And yes, I have moved the child's booster seat all over the place but the noise is still there.

I am also hyper-senitive about noises. Especially this one since I have to go up a hill to my house and ... um ... lets just say a lot of weight is shifted around.

cslee6

To those experiencing door noises, creaks, etc...

I have a 2001 SE. For the longest time there was a creaking sound whenever I braked or accelerated. Finally read on hondasuv.com about a similiar sound...turns up it was the black rubber moulding rubbing against the door frame. Get some silicone lubricant spray at any auto store , put some on a rag or paper towel, and wipe off the moulding all around. The 2001 model year and previous has less of a rigid body frame and this contributes to "body flex" when braking or accelerating. I don't know about after 2001 but if you are experiencing similiar "creaking" sounds, then give the silicone lubricant a try. I find that I need to do this every few months or so as the silicone lub drys out over time...

Happy CRVing!

partytya

I wanted to share my own experience with a noise problem I had on my '02 EX. It was noticeable tapping sound that seems to be coming from the headliner as I drove over semi-rough roads or Interstate highways with repetitious concrete seams. The sound was intermittent enough that a couple of times that I took the V to the dealer, I couldn't repeat it for them. That was frustrating!

I noticed that I can get rid of the tapping noise while driving by slightly pushing up the headliner material near the dome light with my right hand fingers. The noise went away. As a result, I decided to take the dome light off and investigate what might have caused the tapping noise. A couple of possibilities came up. 1) the dome light electrical wires have some play to them when the dome light fixture is installed- so I wrapped a little foam tape around it so it wasn't as loose to bounce around. 2) the headliner seems to have a little play at the dome light fixture even if the fixture was tightly installed onto the ceiling bracket. I decided to add foam tape (about 1/2 inch wide) at each corner of the bracket (onto the bare metal) between the bracket and the headliner material. I reinstalled the dome light bracket with the two screws and took it for a test drive. Voila, the tapping noise is finally gone!

If this is similar to your case, I hope this helps to resolve it. If not, good luck with other solutions.

Partytya

jfigueroa1

I have notice that the struts the hold open the rear window will make some noise. If any of you want to try and open the window and tap it see for your self the part of the strut ball side fit litely lose and will make some noise same might be happening when you drive in uneven or damage roads.
Greetings from sunny Miami.
v/r
fig

dtruong8

Hello everyone,

I have tried lubricating the rubber door seals but it is still the same.

Yesterday, I did another complete search around the driver side rear door, checking for any loose trim. I felt around the interior side of the window and the black rubber covering the edges of the window frame were making similar noises as I have described when I put pressure on it.

Have anyone had this problem with this?? If so, any suggestions on fixing this?? Taking it to the dealer would be a last resort as I needed the car for work and driving the kids to school.

Also, about the rattle on the headliner, I have also previously posted about that. The rattle went away if you opened the moonroof shade. It seemed to disappear from my car somehow. I'm also glad that someone found a fix for it.

Thanks for the input again!! Everyone was sure helpful.

bmorisette

I had heard a bunch of years ago someone suggest that if you buy a brand new vehicle, that you should take it in for a complete fluids change after the first 100 miles or so. The logic provided for this was that a completely new engine and transmission will have lots of metal and composite particles leftover from the actual machining and assembly of the parts plus a lot more particles will be generated as all the gears work together for the first time under stress. All these particles are floating around your fluids and until your first fluids change and you are better off having this done sooner rather than at the 3,000 mile mark.

This sounds like it makes sense but I don't know if it's a throwback from 60's manufacturing techniques or if it still holds water in the modern era of mass production. I ask because I'm taking delivery of a brand new CR-V on Friday. :-).

Any opinions?

Thanks,
Barney

theracoon

The CR-V Owner's Manual has a section that specifically talks about changing oil early.

It says don't do it! ;D

Actually it says you should change it at the first scheduled interval, which based on how you drive is either 5,000 or 10,000 miles for the '03 CR-V. Best thing you can do for your new CR-V is to spend some time reading your Owner's Manual, especially the section on maintenance.

mikefm58

Your owner's manual is the bible in regards to maint. and fluid changes. Follow it religously and your new CRV will give you years of good driving.

theking

I have a 2002 EX AWD with automatic..At idle it tachs at 750 RPM but Idle is very rough. I have brought it to attention of dealer last 3 oil changes....they have checked if there are any computer codes or Honda TSBs on problem...none. Has anyone else out there in Edmunds land experience this problem ???

gsp243sux

Becareful on slick rainy roads,your crv will slide out of control in a heart beat. most do not have antiloc brakes

auburn63

Have your dealer check and see if your ECM/PCM software has the latest update using the H.I.M.(Honda Interface Module)SB 01-023. There is an update available that addresses a code P1164 that also repairs idle quality complaints I forget what that bulletin is but they can find it on the ISIS computer site..Good luck

gary_william

last night I found a friend of mine stuck, so I put my front bumper to his rear one and gave a push for about 5 seconds, during which time he didnt move at all, and I just sat there and spun. several minutes later my ABS light came on. Anyone see a correlation here? What the hell does wheels spinning have to do with ABS? I thought ABS was designed to STOP a vehicle *grins*

auburn63

If there was any wheel spin on your part while another tire was not spinning it would through a speed sensor code for that wheel.

jperrino

I have a '99 CRV with 60K miles. Within the last 2 months I started experiencing slightly rough idling when the car was in Drive but not moving. After taking it to my local Honda dealership, a valve adjustment was recommended & the mechanic noted a "tight" valve was found during the adjustment. This seems to be a common problem for both CRV's & Civic's. Honda dealerships now recommend a valve adjustment be performed every 30K for CRVs, although the maintenance guide recommends the first adjustment at 105K. From what I've read on other forums this is a known "issue" on both CRV's & Civic's (same engine). A valve adjustment costs approximately $100 (not counting diagnostic fees). If the problem is not caught in time, making it necessary to replace a burnt valve, the approximate cost is $1500. I'm not a mechanic, but have been told that valves don't tighten they get loose over time, and that a "tight" valve may indicate a problem that exists in some CRV's & Civic's from day one. I've also seen in some forums where people are claiming that if this problem occurs in a Civic, Honda is covering the cost but the same is not true for the CRV. I'm posting this to first spare other CRV owners a possible costly repair. I recommend you ask your Honda service department if they recommend a valve adjustment every 30K (as opposed to 105K stated in the maintenance guide)when bringing your CRV in for its 30K servicing (or next scheduled maintenance if you're past 30K already like me). Also, if anyone has any additional information on why Honda now recommends the valve adjustment at 30K instead of 105K, if no problem with the valves exist, can they post that information as well.

liemlink

I decided to change the oil today in my 2003 Honda CRV, so I got all the necessities and drained oil from the car. Wanting to record the mileage on the car, I stupidly turned on the car to read the odometer. It ran for about a minute before I realized what I was doing. Have I done any irreparable damage to the engine?

jfigueroa1

May be not. I do not think that a quick min will ruin your eng. nor that I would find this acceptable but, When you drain the oil some should remain in the bearings and other components, so I think it should be ok, when you put the oil back on and started the car back on, did it have the same normal sound as it did before? if so do not worried
Greetings from sunny warm Miami.
v/r
Fig.

liemlink

After I finished with the oil change, I took it for a run, and everything seems fine, knock on wood. Thanks for the help.

qgu

Did you see you oil pressure light on? It should come on to warning you the danger of ruining your engine. I had my first oil change 3 weeks ago at the dealership where I bought my V. Last weekend I saw the warning light flashing a few times. I immediately checked my oil level. It was very low. I had to add another 2 quarters to make it to normal. I am too worried about my engine since I have driven 2500 miles after the oil change.

liemlink

When I turned on the engine, I was staring at my dash display the whole time and didn't see that light flash. But like you, I'm more than a little worried about my engine. Every creak, moan, and hiccup coming from under the hood will make me cringe.

inkie

You do not have to start your engine to get your milage from the odometer. move key to the position where the odometer displays all the dash lights and the milage. Its two positions foward. Some oil is always left in your engine but consider yourself lucky that you shutdown when you did.

rroadking

Would the info given in your post #280 also apply to a 02 Accord with idle quality problems.

auburn63

No as of now there are no spftware updates available for accord pcm's. However you could have your dealer reset the ECM/PCM and do an idle learn procedure, which is basicly reset the ECM and let the car idle hot for 10 min. Accords do have a normally shaky idle in the 750-950rpm range. At 650-700 it is smooth and that is where it should be at. It will however come off that if the steering wheel is turned from a straight ahead position or if a electrical load is placed on the engine, such as rear defroster,a/c,headlights...So as of yet not much canbe done in that idle range...

insur_suvs

I must agree with the other posts, you probably didn't suffer any damage since you shut down quickly. One thing you might want to consider if you are changing the oil yourself (while vehicle is under warranty), use a Honda filter. The reason is this, my Honda mechanic (who owns a shop that specializes only in Honda & Acura, and has been servicing my Civic for over 10 years)at one time was the shop foreman at one of the Honda dealerships here in Miami, he told me of a case where an Accord owner had changed the oil and used a "Napa" filter, the Accord later threw a rod. Honda did not honor the warranty claim since they did not use a Honda filter. My mechanic was not in agreement and fought for the Accord owner. My mechanic was reprimanded by Honda and the dealership. That's why in his shop he uses Honda parts (for any type of service) so that Honda will not try to void a warranty on one of his customers. You can bet I'll have a Honda filter installed on my 03 CR-V EX when its time to change the oil.

liemlink

I would use a Honda oil filter, but I can't find the one that came originally with the car. It's a Tennex oil filter that's made in Japan. My girlfriend in Japan is trying to find the exact one for me as we speak, but for now I'm using one that she sent me. It's a Lemans brand. I figured since I'm driving a car made in Japan, I might as well use a filter made in the same country. I'll post when I receive news of the Tennex filter.

icvci

I'm quite certain it is against the law to refuse warranty service based on an oil filter. As long as the filter meets certain standards (I'm not sure who sets them) an auto manufacturer must service the vehicle.

Otherwise you'd have to use Honda oil, Honda wax, Honda soap, Honda anti freeze...

icvci

Isn't it as simple as pulling the main fuse? Or, disconnecting a battery cable for a couple of minutes?

I'd avoid the dealer for something that easy.

rroadking

Thanks auburn63 for the detailed info........

inkie

I would have agreed with you about using Honda Filters before I purchased this last batch for my CRV and Accord. The old ones were made by Filtech the new ones are made in Canada by Fram. They are 2 ounces lighter and look like junk throughout. The new Honda Fram filters if the dealership was right about the NAPA filter causing a thrown rod {which I don't believe} will cause many a rod to go. fwiw

reed4

I've used Wix Premium filters for several years. Excellent quality and no problems. Wix is also used by many professional racing organizations such as NASCAR.

Reed

pbose

Hello:

We have a 2001 CRV EX with 28K miles. Recently, I noticed that the engine revs at very high RPMs(2500) when first started in the morning. However, after idling for a bit it does go down to around 1000.

Is this something I should be worried about? If so, is there a possible solution you can suggest.

Thanks in advance.

saber86

It sounds normal. My wife 02 cr-v is the same way especially during cold mornings. It hovers up around 2k rpm and gradually goes down to as engine warms up. I think it does that to all cars when you are first starting unless the weather is hot.

fito1

I am thinking about buying a 2001 CR-V EX for my son with 60,000 miles on it, and need everyones help.

1) If the normal maintenance schedule has been followed, how long and how many miles can I expect out of this vehicle???

2) Any idea what a decent price for this CR-V would be? It is a Certified Honda Vehicle with a 100,000 mile warranty, no deductable $0... .

Thanks...

erics6

Interesting article from our paper The Oregonian on the Honda CRV http://www.oregonlive.com/info/drivetime/chip_keen/index.ssf?/base/automotive/1046523370179670.xml.