Are you a current Michigan-based car shopper? A reporter would like to speak with you about your experience; please reach out to PR@Edmunds.com by 7/2 for details.
Fraver - If it were the diff oil, you'd hear it most when taking tight turns. There was a problem with the striker plate on the glass hatch not being lined up properly. That might sound like a tap, but I doubt that would sound like it were coming from the suspension.
Thanks Varmint for the quick response. Is there a fix for the misaligned striker plate. When sitting up front it does sound like the rear hatch window may be making the noise. The only reason I think it might be the suspension is that I get a creak when I push lightly on the rear. It may be two different noises, its hard to tell.
The fellahs at HondaSUV.com figured this one out. Here's a clip from the article:
"2 things may cause the knocking sound.
1. Gas strut 2. Rear hatch glass rubbing against top edge of rear swing out door.
The gas strut fix is simple enough and easier to isolate because when the struts vibrate, it is pretty obvious to hear and locate the problem.
However, for the rear knocking noise over bumpy roads, it is harder because it happens only when the CR-V is "twisted". Here is an explanation of how that happens.
There is a "striker" mechanism on the rear swing out door that attaches to the a metal U bracket on the flip up rear hatch glass window. Sometimes, this striker mechanism may be misaligned and so causes the hatch glass window to touch the top edge of the metal swing out door. Usually, there should be a gap in between the glass and the top edge of the swing out door. However, if there is misalignment, the glass actually comes very close to the metal and so when going over bumps, the two items touch, thus causing the knocking noise.
This is most evident when driving up an incline at an angle (up into a driveway). The rubbing is the noise of the glass popping out against the metal gate. If you examine the top portion of the rear swing out gate, you'll probably notice some scratch marks left behind from the contacts.
Adjustment of the striker unit is thus necessary to relief the rubbing, and this would be demonstrated in a later article on how to properly adjust the unit."
2000 ex CRV has power locks are no longer working using the key less remote and the interior dome light continuously stays on. Any advice would be greatly appreciated, all fuses and battery in remote have been replaced.
Not sure, but you might have to reprogram the remote. There was a procedure posted awhile ago, do a search. Let me know if you can't find it. As far as your dome light goes, did you check to make sure the switch is in the middle? I believe there's 3 settings, always on, only on when a door opens, and never on.
I would check all your door switches since the light is on. If the door is open or it sees that the door is open the remotes will sometimes not operate correctly. Make sure the dome light switch is in the middle position and if so check those doors to see what is keeping the light on..
If you put smaller wheel/tire combo on the front (or conversely, larger wheel/tire at the back), wouldn't the CR-V become full-time AWD since the front wheels would be constantly turning at a faster rate than the rears, tricking the system into thinking there is slippage?
Bodble2 - Yes, and you would also cause binding in the drivetrain every time you took a turn. The front and rear axles need to be able to spin at different rates in order to round a corner.
RT4WD was never meant to be continuously engaged on a full-time basis. Eventually, the dual-pump fluid will overheat and trigger a relief valve to disengage the system.
But only after it has been in park and brakes applied for the first time after that. It doesn't matter if I put it in forward or reverse. The service dept says it's normal after a few miles to wear the pads down. Or it's normal because the caliper has some play in it and that's the noise I hear. I have a problem with both explanations, because there was someone in the service area with 30,000 miles in for a brake job. I started talking to them about the problem. The service manager interupted us and said the problem did not apply to them because they had 30,000 miles and needed new brakes. So what is it? Many miles or few miles? I think they haven't discovered the source of the problem, and therefore don't have a solution yet. Hopefully, they will keep it as a warranty item at a later date.(The problem did not happen when I insisted on driving a new model while I was there.)
my brakes have clunked since day 1, in my 2002 EX. It sounds like the pads shifting a little in the caliper, to me, and it doesn't appear to have adversely affected anything over the last 25k miles or so.
Has anyone had any problems with their tires. One of the gals at work has a 2003 CRV EX less than 4000 miles on the car and TIRES.
For the last week the car had been driving a bit ruff. Yesterday on her way home she heard a strange noises and pulled over. The side wall of the rear tire pulled away from the rim. Much to her surprise and the surprise of the roadside assistance guy when they pulled the tire off the inside was the same way the tire was literally hanging on by a piece of rubber. You could pull the rim straight out of the middle of tire. Left on the rim itself was about an inch of rubber sticking out. All she could think of was the Ford/tire fiasco. Has anyone or does anyone know of any problems. It almost looked as if some sliced them open with a hunting knife. Has anyone or does anyone know if there has been any problems with the crappy tires they put on these car? If your going to pay good money for a car the least they can do is put a QUALITY tire on it. Any help would be appreciated.
Sounds like someone was driving on the rim for a week. It's generally a good idea to check out your vehicle if it's riding "rough" before it won't go anymore.
If my sister owned a CR-V I'd think you were talking about her. A while back she had her car repainted. When the body shop put all the pieces back together they forgot to tighten the lug nuts. On her way home from work the front driver-side wheel finally fell off as she made a right hand turn into our subdivision. The wheel just missed going through a large picture window. She said the car had been making a funny noise and not riding really well. I guess that was an understatement.
Seriously, your coworker's car was telling her to check it out and she ignored it.
Guess that would help. Their the cheap-o crappy Firestone Dueller A/T. And yes she DID checked around the the car several times and saw nothing unusual. Remember the CRV is not the smoothest riding car on the road, and those tires don't help. The tire totally separated from the rim within a day. She took it to the firestone dealer yesterday and of course he told her she MUST HAVE run over something because it couldn't have possibly been a defect with their tire!!! Dripping with scarcasm. They told her they wouldn't replace the tire but she would have to PAY for a new tire. She is in the process of getting in touch with Firestone directly. Thanks
usually happens when the tires are severely underinflated and run at highway speeds for a long time. unfortunately, it can be tough to tell sometimes when tires are severely underinflated, especially if they are on the passenger side and the driver doesn't look at them often.
Most of the explorer fiasco is attributable to underinflation, in my opinion. Sure, we'd all like the tires to tolerate underinflation better, but ultimately, it's the driver's responsibility to make sure the tires are inflated to the proper psi. Most drivers never check their tires, sine cars are so dependable now.
One of my employees has a 99 CR-V with 60K miles, head gasket just blew. Sounds like coolant got into the oil as well.
Seems like a car this young should not have this sort of problem. Anyone have any experience getting Honda to participate in the repair? Alternatively does anyone have experience with buying one of those used imported from Japan replacement engines?
Remember the CRV is not the smoothest riding car on the road, and those tires don't help.
Well, seeing as you compared it to every other car on the road in the entire world, I can't disagree. But, I will say I think it rides very nicely and, I personally think the tires are just fine. BTW it isn't really a car, it's a truck and trucks ride like trucks. Especially when they're entry level trucks. Still all that said, I think it rides very well.
she DID checked around the the car several times and saw nothing unusual.
Did the noise stop since the tire blew? Or did it go away? I suspect it was the tire, right? If it was the tire, there was obviously a problem with it and she didn't notice. Did she check the tires pressure with a tire gauge? Did she make sure there wasn't anything stuck in it? Did all of the tires mysteriously break apart at the same time? All I'm saying is something wasn't right and she didn't get it fixed. It didn't all of the sudden happen, you said it took a week. Sometimes people just need to take responsibility for their actions (or lack of) and not look to others to blame.
Time to bring an end to litigation nation.
If she's really concerned is she replacing all of the tires or just the one that went?
One of my employees has a 99 CR-V with 60K miles, head gasket just blew. Sounds like coolant got into the oil as well.
Seems like a car this young should not have this sort of problem. Anyone have any experience getting Honda to participate in the repair? Alternatively does anyone have experience with buying one of those used imported from Japan replacement engines?
Its a car...it may compete w/trucks, but its a car.. I personally don't think it rides any worse than your typical Civic.
headgasket.. If your employee bought it new, and had dealer service, then there is a really good chance that Honda might help out. If bought used, or not serviced at dealer, then you can try, but I wouldn't want to wager on it.
Hoping to get some feedback on my tire problems. I just purchased an "03" LX AWD with Bridgestone Dueler H/T's two weeks ago. I immediately noticed a "thud", "thud" noise that seemed directly related to my tires. It slowed down and speeded up in relation to how fast I was moving. I called the dealer the next day, and went in for a test drive 2 days later. They seemed to think it was also tire related and ordered 4 new tires. They did not check the car out at all, just did the test drive and checked the air pressure(so they said). Because they were so busy, they cannot replace the tires for 2 weeks. I explained that I was going on vacation and would be doing a lot of driving. The told me they didn't believe it was a safety issue. Should I take their word for it and just continue driving for the next 2 weeks, or should I be really concerned? I told them I'm not comfortable driving the car but I still couldn't get an appointment any sooner. Any suggestions that would make me feel better? Thanks!
did they check your wheel weights? That could be an easy fix, if you have a wheel out of balance.
they could also swap the front and rear tires to see if the noise moves to the back or stays up front, to help identify the problem.
your safety is top priority, if you aren't feeling safe, take it to a tire shop and do the above steps. You have a full size spare, so if it's only one tire, you could swap that one out and be good to go.
I just installed an excellent rack system for my 02 crv. It is made by Thule. I consists of the following components: Control towers #00214 and Landing pad # 8. This system installs into the same receptical as the factory rack. Unlike the factory rack it can be easily removed by releasing the latches. This is an excellent system to fit bike or boat rack to. The cost is around 140.00 dollars.
The roof rack system that I had written about in posting # 435 was manufactured by Yakima and not Thule. Thule specs. a system for the CRV but I dont know how it could be better than the Yakima system I just installed. If you have the sunroof option it is very nice to have the option of easily removing the rack when you are not carrying something due to the loud wind noise the rack system creates.
OK, I don't get it. All these very informative messages about the 2003 CRV and few if any reveal my situation - disappointing MPG. The reason I bought this vehicle over the Liberty was, in part, the 22 city mpg city. I ain't get that - not even close. 18.4 mpg each on my first two tanks. I'm not a lead-foot, but I do drive in Atlanta stop-and-go 90% of the time, about 45 miles round-trip to work. What's the problem? It feels like it's driving great. Can the dealer do anything? I run the tires at 30 psi. I'd appreciate any thoughts/recommendations.
How long does your 22 mile trip to work take? If its 45 minutes to an hour, and the air is going full blast the whole time (Hot in Atlanta, right?), then 18.4 doesn't seem far off. Just because the Liberty was rated at 17 or 18 MPG city (guessing) doesn't mean it would get that in the same conditions you are experiencing. I have about the same distance commute that you do, but it only takes me 28 minutes, and even though my air conditioning is on most days, the load on the engine is a lot less, because of less traffic congestion. When you are in stop and go traffic, with the air on, you can really suck fuel. When you are accelerating with the air on, your engine is at maximum load. You might do that 50-60 times on the way to work, while I do it maybe 7 or 8. I get about 23-24 MPG on most tank fulls this time of year, but I'm averaging probably 45 miles per hour on my commute. Don't feel bad about not getting a Liberty. With that curb weight and engine, you probably would be getting 12-14 MPG. If you are concerned about your mileage, try a nice weekend trip out of the city, and see what you get then.
Is very, very negatively affecting by ANY kind of acceleration -- even the seemingly minor step from 15-25 MPH to 45-50 MPH (the kind of acceleration common on my mostly crowded freeway commute) means my INSTANT MPG dips into to 10-12 MPG range...
The EPA simulator does NOT reflect that kind of traffic, they allow for coasting, and THAT conversely REALLY boosts MPG.
When coasting I routinely see my instant MPG exceed 30-40 MPG, sometimes for several minutes (like when exiting a freeway ramp onto a another controlled access highway, where my coasting speed starts at 60+ MPH, and by the time I hit the stoplight/toll plaza I am still rolling at over 40MPH...)
As kyfdx suggests, take a drive where you can coast/maintain a constant speed and you MPG will soar!
Yes, they don't call it "Hot"lanta for nothing. The vehicle air is almost always on full cool if not full fan. Your stats are right on too- my 22 mile commute is 45-50 minutes easy, and 50-60 accelerations is probably accurate as well. That means I average around 25 miles mph. Still, I figured 22 city meant 22 city. 23-24 like you get would be wonderful - I didn't know there was a break-in factor that allowed for improving mpg. We'll see. I'll let post back later.
My mother in law has a 2002 CR-V EX. Her tailgate will not stay open (the whole door, not the glass) if the car is on even a slight hill. I told her the gas struts are probably defective, but she said the dealer has already replaced them once.
Is this a common problem and is there any solution? On the same hill, our Suzuki XL-7 has no problem keeping the door open.
Pardon the username; it’s my daughter’s favorite Disney character. I have a 2000 CR-V EX automatic, with 45k miles and recently developed a noise in the “A” pipe of the exhaust. When climbing a hill a metal-to-metal vibration noise is heard. The dealer has made two adjustments by crimping the outer pipe tighter to and against the inner pipe. I’m still hearing the noise, though less so than before the adjustments. Dealer says the other option is to replace the pipe, but the part itself is somewhere in the $550 range. There is no apparent road damage or misuse since I purchased it new, so Dealer is not sure how the problem started. I inquired about a possible recall and was told there was none. Would appreciate information if anyone else has had a similar problem.
I'd take it to an exhaust shop (car-x, maybe?), and have them take a look. It sounds like it could be a heat shield, but I would think the dealer would have seen that. Exhaust from a dealer is always expensive, because the only thing they stock is OEM. I'm not necessarily recommending the exhaust shop route, but its great for a second opinion, and then you will have options. And the advice is free!! (from them and me..LOL).
Danix - Not sure about the 2002 CR-V, but my '99 model has a prop for the rear door. It's a 6 or 8 inch plastic sleeve that clips onto the gas strut and will hold the rear door open. Mine was stowed in the same "holster" as the lug wrench.
As varmit wrote in his message the '02 also has a plastic prop that attaches to the piston it is in the same pouch as the handles for the jack. I would also recommend you talk to the dealer about changing the gas strut [non-permissible content removed]'y because that door should stay open even on steep hills as mine does.
hi everyone, i recently purchased a brand new 2003 cr-v ex, and i already brought it back to the dealership 3 times, and the car still drift toward right (3rd time being yesterday 7/22). so they claimed that they have performed 4-wheel alignment twice (they told me it was "normal" the 2nd time i brought it in, and gave me the speech of "all honda cars drift toward right"). when i said that i had a acura for 12 years and it never did that - they told me that i can't compare acura with honda, because i'd be comparing apples with oranges. hmm, really. they told me yesterday that acura has a better transmission, but then we'll be looking at cars ranging from $35k and plus, for honda, on the other hand, it's a cost reduction issue. well, i must have been really lucky - my 1991 acura integra gs didn't cost me 35K, honda must have made a mistake and put a transmission that was meant for a 35K car in mine! now i have to bring it in again on 7/31 - i'm losing my patience, and i'm definitely tired of being patronized. any advise?
I'd try a different Honda dealer, if you have one close.... All the Acura crap is just blowing smoke up your butt. I've had 7 Honda/Acura's and none pulled to the right, unless I had alignment, tire pressure, or wheel/tire problems.
hi everyone, i recently purchased a brand new 2003 cr-v ex, and i already brought it back to the dealership 3 times, and the car still drift toward right (3rd time being yesterday 7/22). so they claimed that they have performed 4-wheel alignment twice (they told me it was "normal" the 2nd time i brought it in, and gave me the speech of "all honda cars drift toward right"). when i said that i had a acura for 12 years and it never did that - they told me that i can't compare acura with honda, because i'd be comparing apples with oranges. hmm, really. they told me yesterday that acura has a better transmission, but then we'll be looking at cars ranging from $35k and plus, for honda, on the other hand, it's a cost reduction issue. well, i must have been really lucky - my 1991 acura integra gs didn't cost me 35K, honda must have made a mistake and put a transmission that was meant for a 35K car in mine! now i have to bring it in again on 7/31 - i'm losing my patience, and i'm definitely tired of being patronized. any advise?
i called another dealership last night that's closer to me - after i explained what the car situation was, they told me about the same story - must be in the handbook - and said that they won't have an opening until 8/2... it's annoying to have to adjust my steering wheel in order to drive straight.
I can believe it... I've never had to do this, but you could call Honda, and tell them what the dealer told you....that they all pull to the right, and you should buy an Acura if you want a good car. They might be able to light a fire. However, you should probably be ready to change Honda dealers, after they help you resolve it.
atlas1025, I had this very annoying and,when on long trips, tiring condition. I reviewed the factory service manual and noticed that small camber adjustments could be made by installing camber adjusting bolts. To get rid of the pull to the right we (the dealership and I) confered then installed the adjusting bolts and put the left front camber to 1.0 positive camber which is 15 minutes out of spec on the positive side. We also decreased the positive camber on the left front to neg .1 which is within spec. I have not noticed any unusual tire wear on the front driver's side tire. (pos camber is when the top of the tire is tilting outward. I would not go back to your original dealership but go to another dealer and tell them you want it fixed. There is a reason there are camber adjusting bolts! rockycow
thanks, kyfdx and rockycow, for your time - i really appreciate it. i have documented everything and sent a letter to the general sales manager at that dealership - he didn't acknowledge it but did pass it onto the director of service & parts. it doesn't seem like this is working. i will send a copy of all my documents to america honda, just to voice my concerns. i'll try another dealership and keep you posted.
I know it's disheartening but, if you keep calling eventually you'll get someone at Honda America that knows what they are talking about.
My sister bought a used Civic from a dealer in the Chicagoland area. When she was driving home she notice the CD player wouldn't work. The dealer told her she to go to Best Buy and get one and they'd install it free. I told her that was BS. I got on the horn and talked to 4 people. The first said the dealer would pull the stereo and she'd be without while it was being repaired. Finally, the 4th guy told me that they don't send customer's stereos out for repair. They are supposed to install re-manufactured stereos on the spot.
It took too long to get that info but, with persistence, it was taken care of. Good luck.
I have a new 2003 CR-V that I've driven less than 1500 miles. I'm noticing something that seems a little peculiar to me. As soon as I come off the gas pedal, it seems that the car slows down unusually fast. In other words, I don't seem to coast like I use to with my other cars. I've checked the parking brake to see if it might be engaged, but it's not. I've never owned an SUV with AWD before, so I'm thinking maybe that's the way it's supposed to drive. Does the car need to be broken in more? Are the brake pads sticking? I don't know? If anyone has had a similar experience or has any ideas, comments, suggestions, I'd really appreciate it. Thanks.
Atlas - Try asking the dealer about TSB 03-004 from January, 2003. This is only supposed to affect a low number of VINs, but it might be worth a try. Here is the VIN list.
2002 CR-V 4WD (auto) - All England produced (VIN begins with SHS) 2003 CR-V 4WD EX (auto) - From VIN SHSRD788.3U100001 thru SHSRD78X.3U108790 2003 CR-V 4WD LX (auto) - From VIN SHSRD788.3U100001 thru SHSRD78X.3U108913
Comments
"2 things may cause the knocking sound.
1. Gas strut
2. Rear hatch glass rubbing against top edge of rear swing out door.
The gas strut fix is simple enough and easier to isolate because when the struts vibrate, it is pretty obvious to hear and locate the problem.
However, for the rear knocking noise over bumpy roads, it is harder because it happens only when the CR-V is "twisted". Here is an explanation of how that happens.
There is a "striker" mechanism on the rear swing out door that attaches to the a metal U bracket on the flip up rear hatch glass window. Sometimes, this striker mechanism may be misaligned and so causes the hatch glass window to touch the top edge of the metal swing out door. Usually, there should be a gap in between the glass and the top edge of the swing out door. However, if there is misalignment, the glass actually comes very close to the metal and so when going over bumps, the two items touch, thus causing the knocking noise.
This is most evident when driving up an incline at an angle (up into a driveway). The rubbing is the noise of the glass popping out against the metal gate. If you examine the top portion of the rear swing out gate, you'll probably notice some scratch marks left behind from the contacts.
Adjustment of the striker unit is thus necessary to relief the rubbing, and this would be demonstrated in a later article on how to properly adjust the unit."
hope this helps, have a good one.
For the last week the car had been driving a bit ruff. Yesterday on her way home she heard a strange noises and pulled over. The side wall of the rear tire pulled away from the rim. Much to her surprise and the surprise of the roadside assistance guy when they pulled the tire off the inside was the same way the tire was literally hanging on by a piece of rubber. You could pull the rim straight out of the middle of tire. Left on the rim itself was about an inch of rubber sticking out. All she could think of was the Ford/tire fiasco. Has anyone or does anyone know of any problems. It almost looked as if some sliced them open with a hunting knife. Has anyone or does anyone know if there has been any problems with the crappy tires they put on these car? If your going to pay good money for a car the least they can do is put a QUALITY tire on it. Any help would be appreciated.
Edmunds Price Checker
Edmunds Lease Calculator
Did you get a good deal? Be sure to come back and share!
Edmunds Moderator
If my sister owned a CR-V I'd think you were talking about her. A while back she had her car repainted. When the body shop put all the pieces back together they forgot to tighten the lug nuts. On her way home from work the front driver-side wheel finally fell off as she made a right hand turn into our subdivision. The wheel just missed going through a large picture window. She said the car had been making a funny noise and not riding really well. I guess that was an understatement.
Seriously, your coworker's car was telling her to check it out and she ignored it.
Most of the explorer fiasco is attributable to underinflation, in my opinion. Sure, we'd all like the tires to tolerate underinflation better, but ultimately, it's the driver's responsibility to make sure the tires are inflated to the proper psi. Most drivers never check their tires, sine cars are so dependable now.
Seems like a car this young should not have this sort of problem. Anyone have any experience getting Honda to participate in the repair? Alternatively does anyone have experience with buying one of those used imported from Japan replacement engines?
Well, seeing as you compared it to every other car on the road in the entire world, I can't disagree. But, I will say I think it rides very nicely and, I personally think the tires are just fine. BTW it isn't really a car, it's a truck and trucks ride like trucks. Especially when they're entry level trucks. Still all that said, I think it rides very well.
she DID checked around the the car several times and saw nothing unusual.
Did the noise stop since the tire blew? Or did it go away? I suspect it was the tire, right? If it was the tire, there was obviously a problem with it and she didn't notice. Did she check the tires pressure with a tire gauge? Did she make sure there wasn't anything stuck in it? Did all of the tires mysteriously break apart at the same time? All I'm saying is something wasn't right and she didn't get it fixed. It didn't all of the sudden happen, you said it took a week. Sometimes people just need to take responsibility for their actions (or lack of) and not look to others to blame.
Time to bring an end to litigation nation.
If she's really concerned is she replacing all of the tires or just the one that went?
Seems like a car this young should not have this sort of problem. Anyone have any experience getting Honda to participate in the repair? Alternatively does anyone have experience with buying one of those used imported from Japan replacement engines?
I thought the CRV was built on the Civic platform. Wouldn't this make it more car than truck?
headgasket.. If your employee bought it new, and had dealer service, then there is a really good chance that Honda might help out. If bought used, or not serviced at dealer, then you can try, but I wouldn't want to wager on it.
regards,
kyfdx
Edmunds Price Checker
Edmunds Lease Calculator
Did you get a good deal? Be sure to come back and share!
Edmunds Moderator
I just purchased an "03" LX AWD with Bridgestone Dueler H/T's two weeks ago. I immediately noticed a "thud", "thud" noise that seemed directly related to my tires. It slowed down and speeded up in relation to how fast I was moving.
I called the dealer the next day, and went in for a test drive 2 days later. They seemed to think it was also tire related and ordered 4 new tires. They did not check the car out at all, just did the test drive and checked the air pressure(so they said). Because they were so busy, they cannot replace the tires for 2 weeks. I explained that I was going on vacation and would be doing a lot of driving. The told me they didn't believe it was a safety issue. Should I take their word for it and just continue driving for the next 2 weeks, or should I be really concerned? I told them I'm not comfortable driving the car but I still couldn't get an appointment any sooner. Any suggestions that would make me feel better? Thanks!
they could also swap the front and rear tires to see if the noise moves to the back or stays up front, to help identify the problem.
your safety is top priority, if you aren't feeling safe, take it to a tire shop and do the above steps. You have a full size spare, so if it's only one tire, you could swap that one out and be good to go.
Good Luck.
I have about the same distance commute that you do, but it only takes me 28 minutes, and even though my air conditioning is on most days, the load on the engine is a lot less, because of less traffic congestion. When you are in stop and go traffic, with the air on, you can really suck fuel. When you are accelerating with the air on, your engine is at maximum load. You might do that 50-60 times on the way to work, while I do it maybe 7 or 8. I get about 23-24 MPG on most tank fulls this time of year, but I'm averaging probably 45 miles per hour on my commute. Don't feel bad about not getting a Liberty. With that curb weight and engine, you probably would be getting 12-14 MPG.
If you are concerned about your mileage, try a nice weekend trip out of the city, and see what you get then.
regards,
kyfdx
Edmunds Price Checker
Edmunds Lease Calculator
Did you get a good deal? Be sure to come back and share!
Edmunds Moderator
regards,
kyfdx
Edmunds Price Checker
Edmunds Lease Calculator
Did you get a good deal? Be sure to come back and share!
Edmunds Moderator
The EPA simulator does NOT reflect that kind of traffic, they allow for coasting, and THAT conversely REALLY boosts MPG.
When coasting I routinely see my instant MPG exceed 30-40 MPG, sometimes for several minutes (like when exiting a freeway ramp onto a another controlled access highway, where my coasting speed starts at 60+ MPH, and by the time I hit the stoplight/toll plaza I am still rolling at over 40MPH...)
As kyfdx suggests, take a drive where you can coast/maintain a constant speed and you MPG will soar!
Thanks to all for the feedback.
Her tailgate will not stay open (the whole door, not the glass) if the car is on even a slight hill. I told her the gas struts are probably defective, but she said the dealer has already replaced them once.
Is this a common problem and is there any solution? On the same hill, our Suzuki XL-7 has no problem keeping the door open.
regards,
kyfdx
Edmunds Price Checker
Edmunds Lease Calculator
Did you get a good deal? Be sure to come back and share!
Edmunds Moderator
I'd think heatshield too. Could be a bad cat, I think they can rattle when they go bad.
I think there is a way to keep the rear door open. Somewhere in the owners manual it talks about it.
regards,
kyfdx
Edmunds Price Checker
Edmunds Lease Calculator
Did you get a good deal? Be sure to come back and share!
Edmunds Moderator
good luck,
kyfdx
,
Edmunds Price Checker
Edmunds Lease Calculator
Did you get a good deal? Be sure to come back and share!
Edmunds Moderator
I had this very annoying and,when on long trips, tiring condition. I reviewed the factory service manual and noticed that small camber adjustments could be made by installing camber adjusting bolts. To get rid of the pull to the right we (the dealership and I) confered then installed the adjusting bolts and put the left front camber to 1.0 positive camber which is 15 minutes out of spec on the positive side. We also decreased the positive camber on the left front to neg .1 which is within spec. I have not noticed any unusual tire wear on the front driver's side tire. (pos camber is when the top of the tire is tilting outward. I would not go back to your original dealership but go to another dealer and tell them you want it fixed. There is a reason there are camber adjusting bolts!
rockycow
I know it's disheartening but, if you keep calling eventually you'll get someone at Honda America that knows what they are talking about.
My sister bought a used Civic from a dealer in the Chicagoland area. When she was driving home she notice the CD player wouldn't work. The dealer told her she to go to Best Buy and get one and they'd install it free. I told her that was BS. I got on the horn and talked to 4 people. The first said the dealer would pull the stereo and she'd be without while it was being repaired. Finally, the 4th guy told me that they don't send customer's stereos out for repair. They are supposed to install re-manufactured stereos on the spot.
It took too long to get that info but, with persistence, it was taken care of. Good luck.
Michael
2002 CR-V 4WD (auto) - All England produced (VIN begins with SHS)
2003 CR-V 4WD EX (auto) - From VIN SHSRD788.3U100001 thru SHSRD78X.3U108790
2003 CR-V 4WD LX (auto) - From VIN SHSRD788.3U100001 thru SHSRD78X.3U108913