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Honda CRV problems
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MSRP is $23,240 --> the price your dealer sells you?
funny...
If it was me I might offer him 20k or 20,5, and worst case, might end up at 21k.
And if possible do it through email, more convenient for you than having 5-6 phone calls where he keeps you on the phone and tries to get you to raise your price.
Good luck
My 2000 CRV has 34,000 miles on it. I bought it new from Carorder.com and the first "problem" seems to be the arm or whatever it is that keeps the tailgate from swinging open too fast or too far. Its spring is sprung, or whatever
I guess my questions are
1) How do I replace it? (I added many of the accessories myself)
2)Does the new car warranty cover this?
3) Will my local Honda dealer honor the warranty...since the car was purchased out of state?
Thanks for your help.
Only does it first thing in the morning, and only on cold mornings. Been back to the dealership multiple times they can not find anything wrong.
The dealer can't pinpoint what is causing this to happen. It happens after the engine fails to cold start. After another attempt, the engine will start, but the airbag (SRS) light stays on. Anybody else having this problem???
Also, I saw that somebody had a question about a hearing single "click" after braking to a complete stop. I hear it too, but it is not a loud click.
Thanks.
"The VTC valve was defective. Once the problem was diagnosed (my dealer initially blamed bad gas) the part was replaced under warantee and I was on my way."
Hope this helps.
and if the host is reading this----can you please change the title, it is "CR-V". Thank you
If you know the code you are getting let me know what it is. The "P" code is the one I would need. We see several P1457 and P1456 but few of the other many codes. I will try and run a check on the Honda Net tomorrow if I get time for any recent bulletins and or known problems. Lately I have been swamped so it may take a day or so but I will get back..
The code in question is P1164. Now I am getting two different stories. My dealer called the tech line and they said to just reset the CEL it is related to a software issue. They will have a software fix soon. Someone else got the same code and their dealer said it is an Oxygen Sensor but they are working on a fix. So which is the real story? I find it interesting that dealers have different stories related to this. Shouldn't Honda be informing them? One guy I spoke with specifically mentioned Honda sending something on March 13 or 14. My dealer insisted he received nothing. I'm sorry to say but this seems to be a real issue with this vehicle, some people are reporting their third CEL. I hope you can shed some light on the real story.
mike phuvie
Others have no trouble the first time.
Go figure!
For the Accords and I am sure it will be the same for the CR-V the code is caused by specific customer driving habbits that cause the ECM/PCM to set a false code(P1164).
I can only guess that the differant stories are coming from people confusing the Accord bulletin with a fix for your CR-V. The person that told you tech lines story was probably the most believable. The only way to know for sure would be to have a tech call again and check on the latest info. I can do this for you but I would need your full VIN and mileage which you could e-mail me if you wished or call back the dealer that already called and see if they could make a call back for you. Or you could wait for the next time the light is on and have them clear the light as well as make a follow up call...Good luck
He has been immensely helpful to me and many others and I would never take advantage of his kindness. I ask my questions on the public forums, that way everyone can benefit.
When mileage reached 232, the check engine light was ON. We brought the car to dealer, and they only reset the light. The car has been in and out the dealer many times. Nothing got resolved. The light keeps ON. I contacted American Honda. No satisfactory service was taken. They want us to continue driving with the check engine light ON. Can we believe them? Can anyone help, please? Who is going to buy a car with a check engine light ON? We don't want the dealer simply to reset the light, but fix it for the normal performance.
Today my 2002 CRV-LX died on the road
The ECL first turned on. I noticed that and thought it might not be a big deal. So I continued
about 100 feet long and came to a traffic intersection and stopped. At that time i heard
the engine was running very rough. I was scared and turn off the engine. Then i tried to start the engine again. But it still run very rough and
i turned the engine off again. After serveral such
tries, the problem became worse, the engine will
just stop running couple of seconds after i started it. At last it won't even start.
I had to ask for a towing service to the nearest Honda dealership, feeling very bad. There is only
2000 miles on the car. And i am a very gentle driver and most the miles are on highway. I didn't expect i will meet such problem with a Honda product.
Did anyone here experience similar problem? By the way, will the towing cost be covered by the
3-year warranty?
Thanks in advance.
Wei
did you read my following post first on the CRV board or just knew the answer right away?
Is this a serious problem? will it happen again
in future? I am concerned. Thanks.
Wei
=============================================
"The Honda dealership technician called me today. I tried my best to remember what he said. Basically the VTEC solenoid of the CRV need to be cleaned,...
Exactly what caused the solenoid valve contamination is still unknown now.
The car will be ready tomorrow. "
Wei
My car has stalled twice @ stops. Both times happened when I came to a stop and was getting ready to accelerate. The RPM's seem to take a dip below 500 (needle below 1/2 way mark between 100 & 0 on tach) most of the time when I come to a stop. Took it in to the dealer for 45k service & had them check the idle & timing. Both OK.
If I were driving a 5spd it wouldn't be that big of a deal but I have an automatic.
I read all the posts. One had a similar problem and there are others that seem related. Anyone have any ideas as to what I should be looking at. Dealer didn't seem to dig deeper for me on this one.
Thanks
4rdtrpz@hondasuv.com
Just on the next day when I drove it on a bumpy freeway while only traveling at 60 mph, I heard a rattle in the headliner, somewhere near the moonroof. At the time, the moonroof shade is all the way closed.
When I open the moonroof shade, whether just slightly or all the way, the rattling stops. Does anyone have this type of problem on their car? This is a brand new car and the rattle is loud enough to notice it even with the radio on.
Anyone help please! Its driving me nuts!
. The salesman said it could be fixed in one day. says he has seen the prob in quit a few ex, models. He even pointed it out to me b4 I even noticed. VERY HONEST dealership-Ralph shomp honda in denver Co.
Anyway bought a brand new LX . No probs at all there.
Driving along (about 20mph)& out of the blue the ABS light popped on and a couple seconds later the brake light came on and both stayed on.
With the window down, I can hear a ticking-type noise (hard to describe, but sounds a lot like how the exhaust pipes sound when cooling down but only can be heard while the wheels are rotating) which 'sounds' like it's coming from the front-driver side wheel area.
Anyway, I immediately called the dealer (taking it in Monday), who said it was very unusual for that to happen in a new car. I asked if it would still be okay to drive (at the time was thinking of driving it the 20 miles to the dealer) and the mechanic on the phone reasoned that since the brakes don't seem squishy or much different as far as stopping ability & that the braking system on the 2002 is no different than the 2001, he didn't see any problem with driving it.
Suffice it to say, I haven't driven the V since & face the weekend with no car.
My question is: Can anybody give me any idea if he was right & it should be okay to drive or should I have it towed, and/or should I fill the brake fluid up to the max line (currently the level is a bit below the mid-level range)and see if the brake light goes off?
I've had conflicting reports ranging from "You have no brakes" to "a sensor's probably screwed up"...