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Lincoln Owners Club

edited March 2014 in Lincoln
I'm looking for individuals with extended
ownership experience with Lincolns. I own a 69
Mark III and 82 Mark VI and need help locating
quality parts and servie for these cars.


  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 57,328
    Here's a good list of links for you!

    Mr. Shiftright

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  • Shiftright-

    Funny to find you under this catagory. I've seen you either in the Saab/VW or Audi forum! Thanks for the help.
  • I own a 69 Mark III and would love to hear from other owners about their experinces. My car has been restored and is near show room condition though it is actually a relatively high mileage example.

    I need to find a reliable source for parts for this car. I'm currently restoring a Packard but will soon begin to focus on this very wonderful "modern" example of autmotive engineering excellence. Whenever I take this car out for a spin I'm always amazed by its 7.5 Ltr. monster under the hood.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 57,328
    Here's a picture for those of you who don't know the car:

    mr. shiftright

    PS: Frederick....get a copy of hemmings motor news if you don't have one...should have some good mark III sources...if you're stuck, e-mail me and I'll dig around for you!

    best, Mr. Shiftright
    <<A HREF="">>

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  • Thanks I know Hemmings but I've had spotty luck ordering things through their advertisers. I ordered bumper insets for one of my Cadillacs from a mid-west firm and when they arrived they were of such terrible quality I immediatly sent them back but still had to pay retrun shipping and a 15% restocking fee. I later found a really well made set out in Simi Valley but I made sure I drove out there to see what I was getting.

    I'm looking for "local" Sothern Cal. suppliers I can contact and go see the parts they've got for sale.
    I recently had a brake job done on my 69 Mark III and found out that the upper arms were severly cracked. This is a very unusaul problem for a car of this kind and build. I have no idea what the previous owners were doing with this car but they certainly were have a blast!

    I ended up having to take parts from a 69 Thunderbird in order to repair the problem on the Mark III. The clerk at a very well known L.A. parts yard said that " he'd seen a lot of Mark III's up until 5-6 years ago" but that "they're nonexistent in the yard today." Rarity of parts for this car is building even in major markets like Los Angeles.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 57,328
    Yes, I know the problem...A-arms crack all the time on 80s vintage Saabs. It is usually the result of under-engineering of some sort...unusual stresses on a weak point.

    Im sure that these older cars are drying up because they've all been crushed at the wrecker (especially after the two gas crises in the 70s)...this is why, ironically, you can often find parts easier for the rarer cars, because they were never junked in the first place (like early T-birds, Vettes, most ragtops, cars like that...)...

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    Buyer be ware any early Mark III is really likely to meet the same problem that I did with the uppper arms. I salvaged my replacement arms from a 69 T-Bird but they too were showing stress crackes around the ball joint mounting holes.

    I had to brase the replacement arms before I put them back on my car because the stress fractures on them were already apparent when I picked them up. The replacement job is not so hard but you won't find an arm that you can just drop into your car without reenforcement work on them.
  • gkarggkarg Posts: 230
    Thanks to Mr. Shiftright for the links page. I may have found a possible source for parts on there! I hit a deer last fall (5:00 in the afternoon) with my 1981 Lincoln Mark VI Cartier. The deer came out of nowhere and I hit it broadside, dead center of the car, at 55 mph. It was a young deer, so it wasn't all that big, ie not that much damage. Broke the grill in half and cracked the grill frame and a lens cover. That was the second one I've hit in years past. (The first was a rainy night and I was only going about 35 ~ It ran out and I hit it broadside, left front ~ no damage!)
    In any case, I've been searching for a front header for the car and may have found one! Thank you!
    Separate issue....I'm thinking of getting the car repainted....any suggestions. It is silver. I would like to get a pearlescent silver for the refinish job (if they make such a color.)
    I own a Gold 82 Mark VI and I know the look of your Silver Cartier. I can tell you that you can still get parts for these cars from Lincoln dealerships but they all seem to cost $109+ no matter what the part. You're in luck though because the model run for these cars, as for most "modern" Lincolns, was relatively long lasted and broad based.

    You not likely to find many of these cars in the junk yard because they've proven to be relatively durable, although the 5.0 Ltr. engine is a bit anemic. I've ridden in numerous VI's still serving as airport limos in N.Y.C.

    I have only one comment about your repainting job. If you look closely at your VI you'll notice that the, I believe it's burgundy colored, pin striping on your car is in fact painted on the car. This is a little bit of a problem when you consider repainting the entire car because it'll cost extra $'s to have that pinstripping repainted. The second problem you'll encounter is that I think you have a Cartier "CC" stenciled into your pinstrip line somewhere on the car. This kind of detail is what makes your Cartier different from your average VI like mine and if not preserved you'll deminish the value of your car with a new paint job unless your old original paint is completely shot.

    The early 80's was not the best time for automotive painting technology here in the States. Many upscales American manufactureres switched to the new European style paints that put a clear coat over the base color coat to make the color look deeper and richer than your traditional single stage paint used for years here in the U.S. Unfortunatly the early clear coats here in the States were not very stable and quickly began to deteriorate when exposed to the sun's harsh violet light.

    You'll have to have that old "bad" clear coat entirely removed and then repiant the base metalic coat over the old metalic coat finishing off with a new quality UV protective clear coat. The pin striping will come after the final clear coat has cured.
  • gkarggkarg Posts: 230
    Thank you for the tips on the painting. You were definitely right in remarking about the engine. I have always been disappointed with the power coming from under the hood. I realize it is a heavy car, but my parents purchased a 1984 Grand Marquis many years ago. It basically has the same engine EXCEPT for the ignition and distributor set-up. Now that car has 210,000 miles on it and the engine (which has only needed a water pump) still runs better than most new engines. They must have just perfected the EFI system for 1984?

    My clear coat is really looking bad. especially the left side of the car. The hood is now a totally different color. it just looks aweful! Altough I do not drive the car during the harsh salty winter here in the northeast. i do not have a garage to store it in. it was garage kept before i bought it and now i'm sure the sun is what killed the clear coat! i don't recall a "cc" in the pinstripe, but then again, I've never looked. i'll have to check.

    i'm wondering, too, about the vinyl top. it is a medium gray and still in good shape, but the elements are not treating it very good. i don't expect it to last real long. i wonder if it would be easy to replace the top?

    i've been amazed that this car has held up so well. i mean it is so sturdy. no rattles or thuds or squeaking of any kind! my parents also now have a '93 taurus and it makes more rattles and bangs and thuds than you can believe. not to mention having the head gaskets replaced twice for their 3.8 liter engine. i also had to replace head gaskets in my 94 cont. they are right when they say, that they just don't build them like they used to! of course the ride, handling and interior of my 94 are way better! that's just a given. with interstate highway cruising is a tie!

    Thanks again!
    When I first got my Mark its landau roof was in really sad shape. It had a lot of mold spots growing on it and the color was no longer uniform. I reversed this and actually made it look a lot better by simply steam cleaning it with a high pressure nozzle then treated it with Armor All. I now regularly wipe it down with a new coat of Armor All after each washing.

    I am like you in that I live in a very harsh enviroment where I'm not able to garage my car. I live near the beach and the salt water will just eat up your car in a matter of years as well as the harsh summer sun. I've taken to covering my car with a car cover regularly and that seems to have really slowed down the deterioration of its finish, roof, and interior. The suon on the top of your rear seats as well as the dash will just eat them alive.
  • gkarggkarg Posts: 230
    I know you had mentioned engine power in a previous note. I just wanted to let you know that I went to the local Walmart and bought 4 packs of the "Splitfire" plugs and put them in. They have helped quite a bit! It runs a little smoother, there's a little more power and I'm not sure, but I believe gas mileage may have even improved. I changed the rotor/cap and wires last year.
    Thanks for the info on Splitfires, I've wondered whether they really work. Since my car is equiped with a an in dash computer I'd know immediatly if the new plugs were making a difference on fue economy.
    I've had a problem with my Mark III overheating on really hot days and spitting a bit of fuid out the over flow tube after long runs about the city. I check the radiator frequently and fill it when needed but it never seems to get below a few inches from the top. Infact it seems to just spit out any fluid I add above this low/high fluid level.

    I done a bit of asking around about the problem and already recored the radiator in an effort to fix the problem but that only seemed to reduce the temperature build up to the point of preventing total boil over. Someone else has stated to me that they thought a head might be cracked. I know that this is a possibilty but I'm a bit surprised by this. The long block engines are really huge and I'd have thought it'd blow head gasket before it gave up and burst a block.

    Anybody with Mark III overheating problems out there? What was your problem and what did you do to remedy it?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 57,328
    Why don't you try putting on an overflow bottle to capture the coolant as it expands?

    Your condition sounds fairly normal, really, if indeed it's a hot day and traffic is heavy.

    I seriously doubt a cracked head...that would cause an immediate and catastrophic overheat, since you have exhaust gases heating the cooling water...such a diagnosis does not match up with your symptoms.

    Also, check your thermostat for both condition and temperature range. If it's been a few years since you replaced it, do so with a summer range thermo and see how that works. But the overflow bottle will save you antifreeze and helps the environment, since anti-freeze is poisonous to animals, who lick it because of the sweet taste.

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    Question? I've been advertising my Mark III with a window sign for some time now but I've only had a few tentative bites. To be honest with you I don't really want to sell this car but I'm trying to appease my wife by at least making an attempt at it.

    I know that if I lowered the price to around $5,000 I'd certainly move the metal. This is what I payed for this car two years ago. It is cosmetically restored and a looker at a distance. What is your gut accessment about the future market for a car like this. 1969 is begining to be one of those middle years where income and memories don't match for most collectors.

    I sense you've been around the block a few times so just be honest at tell me your thoughts.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 57,328
    Well, it's appeal as a collectible is limited at best. For one thing, it is a sedan, and for another, by 1969 the "Mark" series was only a name, not a distinct and special Lincoln anymore. So Lincoln really "devalued the currency" on this car, and the market knows that. $5,000 is really all the money for it, I think, and I don't expect the value to go up. It's all about supply and demand, and for now there are more of these cars than people who will pay big money for them.

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    Understood, thank you for the input. When you say the Mark III "is a sedan" how does that differentiate it from a coupe? The official terminology for these cars is a personal luxury coupe. I agree that this car is near market value since I've had more than a couple of buyers interested in the car near the $5,000 price range but I do know that there still are plenty of these cars around on the road.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 57,328
    By "sedan" I meant with a metal roof...I call a car a sedan if it has a post between the windows, either two or four door, and a hartop coupe is when there is no post on the two-door...but the terminology is not well-defined by anyone, so the terms are used rather loosely these days. To me, a true "coupe" is a "closed coupe", with no side windows at all except the door windows, but that's a rather purist definition. I think the factory certainly called your car a coupe.

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    The Mark III was an early frameless window model although there is a small rear passenger window it is essentially a continuation of the drivers window. Once again I appreciate your experience and expertise.
  • gkarggkarg Posts: 230
    I think sedan refers to the amount of interior room in a vehicle...I read it in Car & Driver, when they were talking about the new toyota two-door. They mentioned that it would be a sedan due to it's spacious interior. I know my Mark VI's title lists it as a sedan and it is 2-dr.

    Oh, related to a previous question about paint. I priced repainting with several local shops and many say it will cost between $2,000 (extreme low-end) to $4,000+. One said "time & materials."
    I think I'm going to try and hold off at least another year. That's a lot of dough!

    I read your post in the Lincoln Towncar & must agree about the trips and comfort comments. I drove my 81 mark on a 300 mile round trip last summer and have driven it on 500 mile trips previous years and always loved the comfort and ride...its premium! I even think it rides better than my 94 continental on interstate travel.
  • gkarggkarg Posts: 230
    I calculated my trip mileage on the last tank of gas for my Mark VI and it was 20 mpg. I almost don't believe it, but unless something went wrong in the math.....that would be my best mileage yet. It wasn't all highway miles, either.
  • I am thinking of purchasing the Lincoln Mark V Collector's Edition '79, the person who is selling it wants $4000. The car is in mint condition, with only 96K miles. Does anybody know the original price of the car, or if this car is worth the price.
    Thank you,
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 57,328
    There was no "collector's edition" per se...either Diamond Jubilee Edition, or one of 4 "Designer" editions...the Diamond Jubilee cost about $8,000 over the $12,000 list price and the Designer cars about $1,800 over the 12,000 list.

    Today, both the diamond jubilee or the designer cars are worth the same...about $7,500 for a very very nice one, which is only about $500 more than for an ordinary Mark V. So the collector factor does not have much bearing on the worth of the car. No doubt this is because they made so many of them (over 72,000 Mark Vs, and more than 15,000 collector models, of which many still exist). So the law of supply and demand seems to indicate that this car will hold its current value but not appreciate very much.

    Nonetheless, it sounds like at $4,000 you are getting a fair deal, and perhaps with luck you could even turn a small profit on the car later on.

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    Believe it or not you probably are getting even better mileage on your VI than you've stated. Lincoln's 5 Ltr. 302 cu. in. V-8 is no rocket but with its overdrive auto trans you will get nearly 20 MPG around town and over that on the highway.

    I own an 82 with digital dash and info center that regularly states 22 MPG when I'm driving on a open highway. This is an amazing figure for a car as heavy and old as the VI. The car is a bit of a dog climbing hills or passing at lower speeds but it does get "great" gas mileage. I personally find that its sheer size alllows the Lincoln to merge and or pass anywhere I choose to do so.

    Long live the American Land Yatch!
  • gkarggkarg Posts: 230
    I frequently get the name "Aircraft Carrier" for my Mark VI.

    I too have the Digital Dash and trip buttons with my Cartier. The only trouble I have is the clock or date sometimes changes & the Distance to Empty sometimes messes up.

    On long distance trips the "Destination" feature is awesome. Punch in the trip miles and it tells you when you will arrive - based on current speed (and much more)....pretty cool for an old boat! (I'm sure yours has this too!)

    Long live the aircraft carrier!
    I've replaced my in dash display module twice only to find out that it was only a faulty grounding wire all the time. The button monitor module is not cheap nor is the digital module but w/o them all you'll get is chimming bells as you promptly overheat in the middle of the intersection at La Brea and Beverly Blvd. on your way to an important client meeting with a profile account in Hollywood.

    I ended up having to call the account from my cell phone to reschedule and apologize. I eventually made the sale but I ended up towing the car to a nearby Lincoln dealership and renting a Toyota Corrola for my trip to Nor Cal. Bummer of a car to have to drive North to the Bay Area.

    After twice going through the digital dash's conniption fits an automotive electronic specialist shop told me that the grounding connection for the dash display module was was a flat male/female connector right on the floor board behind the gas peddle. If this connection becomes loose you'll have all kinds of strange and expensive problems with your digital dash.

    The remedy is to have a screw and eyelet connector put on the ground wire and save the headaches for something else.

    "Enjoy the ride" should've been the Mark's tag line.

    Is it possible to interchange the window seals on old 68-70 Thunderbirds with those of a Mark III? I need new rubber for my side windows and it seems that there is a heck of a lot more after-market repros for Thunderbirds than there are for the old Marks.
  • gorniegornie Posts: 2
    Anyone know of a good condition Mark II with air for sale?
This discussion has been closed.