By accessing this website, you acknowledge that Edmunds and its third party business partners may use cookies, pixels, and similar technologies to collect information about you and your interactions with the website as described in our
Privacy Statement, and you agree that your use of the website is subject to our
Visitor Agreement.
Comments
http://jerrystout.us/sonata/tsb/ambient%20temperature%20sensor%20replacement.pdf-
I have just encountered the same issue and am seeking your advice on this matter. The car is currently at my local (non-dealer) shop and awaiting a decent sub-frame. Apparently all used/salvage sub-frames are suspect and they have refused two already. I can switch the repair to the dealer without any hitches but will not do so if there is no assurance of reimbursement as they will only do the repair with a new part which jumps the cost to over $2k.
Your e-mail is private so I have to try this method of communication. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Paul
leganzaCDX99@aol.com
Your story sounds like deja vu. I originally took my Sonata to the dealer for state inspection and was told of the subframe rust. They initially said they could not repair it at all and that problems like this were usually referred to a local body shop. However, they cautioned that the body shop would have to use a salvage part and the finding one from a 2000 model Sonata would be difficult or impossible. Bottom line: the car is done.
I then took it to my favorite local guy who confirmed that things were really bad and they weren't sure they could fix it.
After that I found this thread and learned that others had pursued claims through Hyundai consumer affairs and had either been reimbursed for their repair or had the work done at a dealer under warranty. After only 2 weeks, Hyundai agreed to repair our car at no charge. I then took it back to the local dealer who cheerfully fixed it.
My recommendation is to call Hyundai Consumer Affairs and open a case. Be patient, courteous, and PERSISTENT. I think they'll do the right thing for you.
Good luck!
Tom Strickland
Hyundai case# 3162725
I did e-mail Hyundai Consumer Affairs back on the 21st of December and received a reply giving me a case number. I chose not to pursue anything over the Holidays. My local shop is still trying to find a decent one before they will start any work or will call it quits if they can't. So I called the phone number for the Hyundai Consumer Affairs today and spoke with a very nice young lady named April who denied any Hyundai coverage from warranty, etc. and noted our rather high mileage of over 140K since 2000. My wife puts on about 20K a year. I thanked her for her time and explained that this is just the opening salvo from my perspective as frame rust-through on any car of recent vintage, especially where welds are concerned, is no small safety issue.
Basically I'm just trying to see what others like yourself have done, step-by-step, to get reimbursement or assurance of same from Hyundai. Obviously if Hyundai does the job they will use a new sub-frame and the cost will rise appropriately so I am more than a little hesitant to take it to the dealer for repair in the first place without some understanding in place. If I have to out-of-pocket a $1300-$1400 repair, I can live with it, even without reimbursement. But I will not out-of-pocket a $2200 repair or more, as other have noted without compensation.
Many Thanks
Paul
I received similar treatment from the Hyundai Consumer Affairs department when I filled my claim. They told me that since my Sonata was a 1999 and had 95K miles on it, it was well out of warranty.
I was trying to figure out from the ones that were successful in getting Hyundai to pay for the sub frame repair what years these cars were but didnt seem to find this info. I wonder if these were 'newer' model cars that they had.
Even so, for something as serious as this, I still think Hyundai should do the right thing and pay up.
Mike
Dealers routinely recommend services above and beyond the manufacturer's requirements--things like "throttle body cleaning" for example. It's great for their profits.
Any body dealt with this?
I am also not that hard on the car, I do not accelerate or brake suddenly.
Any suggestions?
Thanks
that'll make a difference also.
Here in CT we have the crummy 10% ethanol year round (more expensive than "real gas" and lower MPG).
My milage to work is about 3 miles each way, not heavy city traffic, but it might as well be with 2 stop signs and 2 traffic lights, one of which is a "left turn only" and almost always requiring a stop and often having to sit through one light cycle before able to get through the intersection. On the approx 1 mile section of clear sailing, speeds vary from about 40ish down to 20 (and sometimes stop) due to school buses and commercial vehicle turning into and out of a side street. It can take anywhere from 7 to 11 minutes to drive those 2.7 miles. Do the math, my average speed, driving to work, ranges from 15 to 23 MPH depending on the traffic on any given day or how long I may have to wait at a traffic light. Yes, I usually get to 40 or 45 at some point (for maybe 3/4's of a mile). Driving home .5 of the last .7 miles is up an S curve hill with an elevation change of approx 200 ft--not exactly good for the mpg.
We all have different driving conditions which affect our mpg's differently.
(The hill coming home is why I shake my head when I read some of the posts on the Azera forum that say there's no big difference between RWD & FWD. Many snow storms I have to go a couple miles on a round about route to avoid that hill even with FWD.)
Go to a bank driveup window or fast food joint driveup and sit in line for 5 or 10 minutes. Real gas gobbler.
Well, of course LOL! ...the answer is ZERO mpg.
Play with it and find the optimum driving style to achieve the best mileage you can.
Thanks
Anyways thanks again.
water/steam leak from a hose?
We have found over the years that our stuff lasts about twice as long as the "severe service" driver might experience. I'm all for PM but don't believe in overkill.
1- passenger side rear window would not lower/raise from drivers console. They supposedly fixed it....its still mesed up and now I have to make yet another trip to the dealership.
2-The windshield wipers work when they want to work. No problems found at time of service...argh! They told me the water sprayer would have to be checked and blown out , that it was clogged......what? $ 90.00???
The sprayer started working again all by its self....blockage my foot?
3-My side mirrors quit working and the mechanic said it was a blown fuse...no there was no fuse in it when I took it to dealership. I went by auto parts store bought fuses and replaced the missing one....the mirrors and lighter works now...in the hand book it shows no fuse for side mirrors....dumb butts!
But the worst part is why didn't the dealership catch this when it would have been a minor repair??? They've serviced the car several times over the past few years!
My friend suggested I should pay out of pocket and have it fixed in a body shop. But I kind of prefer to have the dealership look at it and fix it completely, I don't know if the body shop can fix the alarm system and I don't know if the bodyshop repair would impact my warranty in the future.
But I don't know if I submit the claim with Geico, they would raise my rate really high later. To make the situation worse, I'm a new driver and this is my first car, I got it less than a month ago.
So I was wondering if anybody has any experience with insurance going up after an accident.
If I submit the claim and take it to my dealer (to make sure everything is fixed), Geico would have to pay about $2000 or more. Would my insurance go up substantially?
I have a friend who was in the similar situation and the insurance went from $450 to 2k for 6 months after slight collision with a pole (only bumper damaged). That sounds ridiculous!
Do you know if I switch company when if happens, can I get a lower rate from other company?
Thank you for your help in advance!
I hope you all have a good weekend!
No, he doesn't have a car anymore.
After considerable effort with the dealer, who could feel the problem but had no fix for it , I finally get the attention of the Factory rep. He road in the car and drove it but insisted that it was performing as designed.
Well, I still experience the problem and must put the transmission into shitable 4th gear to eliminate the vibration.
I still feel this is a problem area and if it exists on all 2007 Hyundai GLS,s then Hyundai has a problem they are not addressing.
Anyway,since I cannot afford to replace the car, I will live with it until I can do something.
I find Hyundai hard to deal with as I cannot find anywhere else to take my concern. Talked by phone to Hyundai customer service and they never got back to me. Also, does anyone know of an email address for Hyundai other than the dealer?
Others can do what they want, but I will not again be a Hyundai customer. Unfortunately I bought two 2007 Hyundai Sonatas at the same time. So I guess I made a mistake. I won't do that again.
I feel bad for you. Have you tried changing the trans fluid? It may help. If it was my car doing this I would invest a few bucks and have it done. Good luck man.
When I try to start the car after about 2 hours of non operation, the engine won't start at the first try. It cranks but doesn't catch on. It doesn't happen all the time but happens more than 50 ~70% of the time. Of course when I take it to the dealer, the car starts right up because it's been running.
1st time the dealer told me they could not duplicate the problem.
2nd time, the dealer changed the knock sensor.
Has anyone else had a similar problem? How did you fix it? This problem is driving me nuts. I have a 2001 toyota sienna that starts every time on the first crank.