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Hyundai Sonata Maintenance and Repair



  • chanmanchanman Posts: 1
    My Wife and I got a Brand new Sonata on July 3rd. We drove it 200 miles (4 days). It started making a real funny noise. We called service. they came and towed it in. Called my wife back and told her we had a serious problem in that the Drive Chain Timing belts had completely slipped! They needed to completely Pull the engine OUT and redo the timing belts and chains (I guess)whatever the correct technical wording is......
    My problem is that I told them I did not want that car anymore. I asked for them to find me a new one just like it because I've heard once you pull an Engine completely out of a car, by disconnecting everything, you never get that engine to run the same ever again. There is no way they can put that back together as goods as they did at the factory.
    The problem is in understanding what they are going to do at corporate because the dealership has washed their hands of the whole problem saying it is not their problem, call corporate. I felt so used after we don't even have that car for 1 week and it has this MAJOR problem and the FRIENDS we had at the DEALERSHIP when were were buying all of a sudden disappeared! WOW what a shock!
  • lastwraithlastwraith Posts: 350
    Assuming you have checked the car for codes already and have found none it might be prudent to check for voltage at the fuel pump to see if it is getting anything when you try to start the car. Especially if you suspect this to be the area of your problem.

    Fuel pumps will indeed run when given voltage but things can also get in the way. Just ask an older accord owner about failing main relays this time of year.

    And just for the record, your switch question was valid. For example, Ford Escorts have had inertia sensitive fuel shutoff switches in them throughout multiple model years.
  • ray_h1ray_h1 Posts: 1,134
    "I've heard once you pull an Engine completely out of a car, by disconnecting everything, you never get that engine to run the same ever again. ... There is no way they can put that back together as goods as they did at the factory."

    Therein lies the crux of the matter, doesn't it? Opinions on any subject vary as widely as the appearance of peoples' faces. I've even heard opinions that the earth is actually flat and that astronauts never walked on the moon - that it was all staged and took place on dear old terra firma. That miscilaneum aside, I can't help but wonder just how well everything on your new car's engine really was assembled at the factory if you already have a serious mechanical problem at just 200 miles... You may want to consult a lawyer for advice about a legal strategy in attempting to obtain a free replacement car or purchase price refund - the so-called "lemon law" approach. Be aware, though, that most, if not all, states require that the car owner allow the automaker three chances to repair the problem before lemon law litigation can proceed. (Besides, who knows? Maybe the dealership's service department's certified techs will actually satisfactorilly repair the engine despite the conventional "wisdom" of annonymous and unaccountable rumor mongers...) Anyway, I do sincerely wish you the best of luck in resolving a very nasty problem that fate bulls-eyed squarely in your unsuspecting lap.
  • njeraldnjerald Posts: 688
    You are due a satisfactory repair as specified in your warranty whether it happened in 1 week or after 5 years.

    Not a new car.
  • kmonniakmonnia Posts: 8
    I had wind noise with my '06 Sonata. That was very suprising to me because all of the reviews explained how quiet the car was. I brought it back to the dealer and they re-sealed the rear window. It is perfectly quiet now.

    The noise in my car sounded like it was coming from the rear, but I guess if you have a break in the seal the noise could sound like it's coming from diffeent places depending on the location.

    The dealer was very easily able to fix this, however, I did need to take it in when their "glass guy" was in. That's usually a couple times a week.
  • damecourdamecour Posts: 1
    There seems to be a programming problem with the automatic climate control on my 2006 sonata. In auto mode the climate control brings on the air conditioning when needed. When you change to manual mode the air conditioning remains on even though you have not selected air conditioning and there is no icon on the display. The only way to deactivate the air conditioning is to push the air cond. button so the icon comes on and then push it again to turn the icon off. Now the air cond. is off and you can control it manually. Hyundai seems to of missed a step in the climate control program that turns the air off when switching between auto and manual mode. Can anyone verify this? and does anyone know of a fix for this from Hyundai? Thanks
  • gibigibi Posts: 9
    I have the same problem, About 2 months ago they replaced the right rear wheel bearing. Said it was defective. Now 2 months later the same symptons are back. Same squeeking and rubbing sound, I am going to the dealer in the am and give them this info.It is embarrising when people look at you driving your brand Hyundai and it sounds like a dump truck????
  • ray_h1ray_h1 Posts: 1,134
    Unless Hyundai's changed its attitude about wheel bearings since 2003, the wheel bearings they use come from Hyundai's wheel bearing supplier pre-packed with grease - pull 'em outa the box, install 'em, and send the happy car owner on his way. The only service on these bearings is outright replacement if they're faulty. In short, they're either good or they're not. It sounds like you got "lucky" twice in succession with an insufficiently lubed and/or improperly machined rear wheel bearing set from one of Hyundai's suppliers. Who knows? You might eventually get a good one if you keep trying enough times... The good news is that it's on Hyundai's nickel the first five years or 60,000 miles.
  • seepicseepic Posts: 7
    Dealer told me the viberation of the gas pedal is due to "resistence of the computer". He said the gas pedal is like a video game control. When I slightly hit the gas, the computer was confused by what I wanted it to do. He suggested I hit the gas harder. Does it sound reasonable?
  • ray_h1ray_h1 Posts: 1,134
    Sounds like baloney served up with horse-pucky to me.
  • Hi Guys,

    Mine is a 2006 GLS V6 (bought a month ago). At first, I was very impressed by the quiet engine. At about 500 miles, I asked my dealership to do an oil change (I doubted there was a problem with the oil filter but it turned out there was not). Since that, I have had a feeling that the engine gets louder, espcially after a cold start. Whenever I accelerate the car from low speeds, stepping on the gas padel softly, with windows closed and fans and music off, I can hear apparent engine roaring. When I am waiting for red lights, with palms on the steering wheel I can feel a slight vibration through it.

    Maybe I am just meeting troubles halfway. Any kind comments?
  • ray_h1ray_h1 Posts: 1,134
    At just one month into ownership and with your new car totally under Hyundai America's blanket warranties, why not discuss your concerns with your dealership's service manager? It doesn't seem like you should have to settle for a noisy, vibrating motor when it's idling or accelerating from rest at part throttle. If these anomalies only became apparent after your dealer's servicing, be sure to mention that, too.
  • jason15jason15 Posts: 6
    Yes. I have seen this problem too. Probably just the way it was designed. Let us know if you find a fix.
  • jack47jack47 Posts: 312
    Could it be the 85% ethenol/gas that a lot of people are unknowingly filling up with?
  • pekelopdpekelopd Posts: 139
    Read section 2-13 in your owners manual. This page will explain a little of how ESC helps. The only time(s) you might want to turn off ESC is when your car is parked on ice and you are trying to pull away from it. If the computer sense tire slippage, it will brake certain wheels in order to regain control, or so it appears to the computer. Other times you might want ESC off is if you plan to drive the car like a sports car and do some drifting and hard cornering, but then again, this isn't exactly a sports car. If you go to Hyundai's web site, it give a computer simulated example ESC and non-ESC.
  • miamixtmiamixt Posts: 600
    I visited your link, that was a waste. I don't plan on ever turning off the ESC, as it controls the ABS too. So if I was planning to drive the Car like a sports Car, with hard cornering and drifting, isn't that why I have these features in the first place?.
  • ray_h1ray_h1 Posts: 1,134
    The ABS system is not driver defeatable - only ESC is. pekelopd's advice was spot on.
  • miamixtmiamixt Posts: 600
    Page 2-12 refers to the ABS(ESC) as one component. Are you sure he's spot on?.

    WARNING! (Look for the yellow caution box)

    ABS(ESC) will not prevent accidents due to improper Driving...

    The breaking distance for cars equipped with an anti-lock braking system(ESC) may be LONGER...

    The safety features of an ABS(ESC) equipped vehicle should not be tested by high speed driving or cornering...
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 57,354
    Only condition where ABS might take longer to stop is on gravel; otherwise it's pretty hard to outsmart it.

    MODERATOR --Need help with anything? Click on my name!

  • jaxs1jaxs1 Posts: 2,697
    But some percentage of people may want to drive their Sonatas on roads paved with a combination of gravel, marbles, sand and loose snow on a daily basis.
    The inability to turn off the ABS and ESC could become a safety issue in their minds.
  • miamixtmiamixt Posts: 600
    Mr. Shiftright, I can think of a few other situations like Ice, or Driver error. Many people have not experienced ABS in action, so they let off the Brake when that "terrible" pulsating feeling is felt. However the point of my post, Since ABS/ESC seem to be linked together via logic, I wonder if turning off ESC in the Sonata, also turns off the Logic for the ABS. I suppose I could go test this, what do you think?
    "Getting the ABS Concept
    The theory behind anti-lock brakes is simple. A skidding wheel (where the tire contact patch is sliding relative to the road) has less traction than a non-skidding wheel. If you have been stuck on ice, you know that if your wheels are spinning you have no traction. This is because the contact patch is sliding relative to the ice (see Brakes: How Friction Works for more). By keeping the wheels from skidding while you slow down, anti-lock brakes benefit you in two ways: You'll stop faster, and you'll be able to steer while you stop.

    There are four main components to an ABS system:

    Speed sensors

    Anti-lock brake pump and valves

    Speed Sensors
    The anti-lock braking system needs some way of knowing when a wheel is about to lock up. The speed sensors, which are located at each wheel, or in some cases in the differential, provide this information.

    There is a valve in the brake line of each brake controlled by the ABS. On some systems, the valve has three positions:

    In position one, the valve is open; pressure from the master cylinder is passed right through to the brake.
    In position two, the valve blocks the line, isolating that brake from the master cylinder. This prevents the pressure from rising further should the driver push the brake pedal harder.
    In position three, the valve releases some of the pressure from the brake.
    Since the valve is able to release pressure from the brakes, there has to be some way to put that pressure back. That is what the pump does; when a valve reduces the pressure in a line, the pump is there to get the pressure back up.

    The controller is a computer in the car. It watches the speed sensors and controls the valves.

    ABS at Work
    There are many different variations and control algorithms for ABS systems. We will discuss how one of the simpler systems works.

    The controller monitors the speed sensors at all times. It is looking for decelerations in the wheel that are out of the ordinary. Right before a wheel locks up, it will experience a rapid deceleration. If left unchecked, the wheel would stop much more quickly than any car could. It might take a car five seconds to stop from 60 mph (96.6 kph) under ideal conditions, but a wheel that locks up could stop spinning in less than a second.

    The ABS controller knows that such a rapid deceleration is impossible, so it reduces the pressure to that brake until it sees an acceleration, then it increases the pressure until it sees the deceleration again. It can do this very quickly, before the tire can actually significantly change speed. The result is that the tire slows down at the same rate as the car, with the brakes keeping the tires very near the point at which they will start to lock up. This gives the system maximum braking power.

    When the ABS system is in operation you will feel a pulsing in the brake pedal; this comes from the rapid opening and closing of the valves. Some ABS systems can cycle up to 15 times per second.

    Types of Anti-Lock Brakes
    Anti-lock braking systems use different schemes depending on the type of brakes in use. We will refer to them by the number of channels -- that is, how many valves that are individually controlled -- and the number of speed sensors.

    Four-channel, four-sensor ABS - This is the best scheme. There is a speed sensor on all four wheels and a separate valve for all four wheels. With this setup, the controller monitors each wheel individually to make sure it is achieving maximum braking force.

    Three-channel, three-sensor ABS - This scheme, commonly found on pickup trucks with four-wheel ABS, has a speed sensor and a valve for each of the front wheels, with one valve and one sensor for both rear wheels. The speed sensor for the rear wheels is located in the rear axle.
    This system provides individual control of the front wheels, so they can both achieve maximum braking force. The rear wheels, however, are monitored together; they both have to start to lock up before the ABS will activate on the rear. With this system, it is possible that one of the rear wheels will lock during a stop, reducing brake effectiveness.

    One-channel, one-sensor ABS - This system is commonly found on pickup trucks with rear-wheel ABS. It has one valve, which controls both rear wheels, and one speed sensor, located in the rear axle.
    This system operates the same as the rear end of a three-channel system. The rear wheels are monitored together and they both have to start to lock up before the ABS kicks in. In this system it is also possible that one of the rear wheels will lock, reducing brake effectiveness.

    This system is easy to identify. Usually there will be one brake line going through a T-fitting to both rear wheels. You can locate the speed sensor by looking for an electrical connection near the differential on the rear-axle housing.

    ABS Questions

    Should I pump the brake pedal when stopping in slippery conditions?
    You absolutely should not pump the brake pedal in a car with ABS. Pumping the brakes is a technique that is sometimes used in slippery conditions to allow the wheels to unlock so that the vehicle stays somewhat straight during a stop. In a car with ABS the wheels should never lock in the first place, so pumping the brakes will just make you take longer to stop.
    In an emergency stop in a car with ABS, you should apply the brake pedal firmly and hold it while the ABS does all the work. You will feel a pulsing in the pedal that may be quite violent, but this is normal so don't let off the brake.

    Do anti-lock brakes really work?
    Anti-lock brakes really do help you stop better. They prevent wheels from locking up and provide the shortest stopping distance on slippery surfaces. But do they really prevent accidents? This is the true measure of the effectiveness of ABS systems.
    The Insurance Institute for Highway Safety (IIHS) has conducted several studies trying to determine if cars equipped with ABS are involved in more or fewer fatal accidents. It turns out that in a 1996 study, vehicles equipped with ABS were overall no less likely to be involved in fatal accidents than vehicles without. The study actually stated that although cars with ABS were less likely to be involved in accidents fatal to the occupants of other cars, they are more likely to be involved in accidents fatal to the occupants of the ABS car, especially single-
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 57,354
    I can't imagine a manufacturer designing an ABS that is turned off with ESC...that would be pretty strange.

    Well look, ultimately what keeps your car on the ground is those four tiny patches of rubber under the four tires...if you are on totally slick ice, 8-wheel drive attached to a Cray computer isn't going to help very much. Technology has its limits.

    Human stupidity can always defeat technology! I've proven this---FACT!

    MODERATOR --Need help with anything? Click on my name!

  • jaxs1jaxs1 Posts: 2,697
    It would not be safer to have no ABS when on ice. On ice, it would be extremely easy to lock the front wheels and lose complete control of the vehicle without ABS.
    I've seen this on tv where a news crew was setup on an ice covered freeway and video taped cars at a crash scene. The cars without ABS were spinning out of control with locked brakes and crashing into each other and the cars with ABS were able to steer around the stopped vehicles.
  • bobadbobad Posts: 1,587
    Human stupidity can always defeat technology! I've proven this---FACT!

    I agree, but when I say something like that, my post gets deleted! :blush:
  • bhmr59bhmr59 Posts: 1,601
    I've been told by a guy who is race track certified that ABS stops you straighter but does not stop you quicker. Any wheel hop, including pot holes or small bumps (like an over-filled pot hole) will cause a longer distance for ABS cars to stop. Being able to steer while jumping on the brakes is a benefit, of course.
  • miamixtmiamixt Posts: 600
    "I've been told by a guy who is race track certified that ABS stops you straighter but does not stop you quicker".

    That was always my understanding of ABS!. Since all references in the manual refer to ABS, as ABS(ESC), or anti-lock braking system(ESC), I thought perhaps defeating the ESC by pressing it off (and why would you?) would be in essence turning off the ABS system?.
  • jaxs1jaxs1 Posts: 2,697
    Being able to control and steer the car while braking is an important benefit.
    Plus, it will save you from ruining your tires by dragging the locked wheels across the pavement.
    Many times it will shorten the distance since ABS can control each wheel individually and apply maximum braking to whichever wheels have the most traction.
  • bhmr59bhmr59 Posts: 1,601
    I wouldn't know about ruining tires by dragging them across pavement. Can't remember when was the last time I locked up the wheels on dry pavement.
  • desertguydesertguy Posts: 730
    "Can't remember when was the last time I locked up the wheels on dry pavement."

    Fortunate for you. When you or I do lock the wheels it is usually a panic situation. A long skid can flat spot the tires and actually ruin one or more.
  • ray_h1ray_h1 Posts: 1,134
    It's very easy to lock the more lightly loaded rear wheels with non-ABS equipped vehicles in wet or icy conditions before locking the more heavily loaded front wheels. When the rear tires lose traction, the car's in imminent danger of swapping ends - not uncommonly with centrifugal force induced loss of the front wheels' traction into a four wheel, uncontrolled slide. As for the question of whether Hyundai's implementation of ABS is co-dependent on active ESC, this would be easy enough to test safely. Just find an infrequently stretch of straight, smooth, and level road under dry conditions, accelerate up to ~25 mph, disable DSC, and slam on the brakes. If the car stops straight and true, with a mild-to-moderate pulsing sensation in the brake pedal, that would be proof that ABS works independently of ESC engagement.
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