2013 and Earlier - Hyundai Sonata Prices Paid and Buying Experience

bhmr59

I thought I read that somewhere. Maybe it was another site. Anyway, I haven't had to worry about crashing into a 20 post max per day.

larryxp

Am I missing something here? Most of the great deals people are talking about here are the sticker price minus the rebates. Which in reality is the new sticker price. The practical invoice price goes down with rebates.

The $1000.00 financing rebate should not enter into the buying near invoice figure.

A very low price for a 4 cyl GLS after subtracting the dealer hold back and including the $500 rebate is $17636. HMCF fininancing would lower that by $1000. The dealer is of course entitled to some profit so look for something above that figure. TTL are local costs and aren't much use here on a forum.

A very low price for a 6 cyl GLS excluding rebates is 17452. Rebates would, of course, lower that figure.

Someone please show me the error in my thinking.

backy

Yes, now I am confused. In my book, a good price is invoice (true invoice, not one inflated by "advertising fees" etc.), before rebates. That would put a good price on the I4 GLS at about $18,500, before rebates. Anything less than that is gravy IMO. If you can get the dealer to part with some of their holdback, great. If you can find one of those "one only, from 12:01 am to 12:02 am during the 3rd Saturday in November in a leap year" specials like the dealer in Arizona offered, fantastic. Go for it. And I'll bargain as hard as I can. But in general I will be satisfied with invoice less rebates as a maximum price for a car like the Sonata. I want the dealers I buy from to be in business to service my cars, so I don't mind if they make a little money on the transaction. Just not a lot.

bhmr59

Was there a typo in your post? You've got the 4 cyl costing more than the 6 cyl in your examples of very low price.

zen2

Yes, you are very confused. None of the deals
mentioned here were near MSRP. Mine was about
150 over invoice, at 18000. Add the two rebates,
brings it to 2000, or 1495 under sticker. Kathryn did
better than this, and Fitzmall was selling the
GLS V6 for 17062, about 800 below invoice.

Do you really expect the dealer to sell you a car at
imvoice, and also give you the holdback? Go try
this with an Accord.

Also, you have the price of a GLS 4 cyl only
500 dollars less than a V6, when there is a difference
of, I believe, 1000 dollars in dealer cost. Why
would anyone buy a 4 cyl for 500 dollar difference?

chessplayer

Patsy,

The Edmunds invoice price of $20615 for a GLS V6 with option package 4 is the same invoice price that I figured from another source.

I contacted 9 dealers today by email/fax and quickly received 2 first offers for invoice minus rebates + $35 dealer fees + tax & license. This is the same offer as Carsdirect in my area, and it's only their first offer.

Your dealer is almost, but not quite, in the right ballpark. You may want to contact out-of-area dealers and ask for quotes from their sales manager or internet manager. If you call today or tomorrow you might find someone who is willing to deal to reach their monthly sales target. Or you can try again at the end of December...

Good luck.

larryxp

My point is people are buying a car at MSRP - rebates and feeling as if they got a great deal. In fast they are just buying at the current sticker price. The market has adjusted the value of the car down.

Some on this board have given figures like 15,900 to 16,500 for a 4 cyl GLS. Others have given 17,500(sticker-rebates). I'm trying to find one closer to 15,900.

Yes the 4 vs 6 cyl prices are tricky because the 6 does not include the $1000 consumer rebate in that figure. It may be the better buy right now.

I agree the dealer has to eat. In a buyers market you sometimes can get a lower price so I'm trying to get him to eat a little less well at my expense. IMHO if you allow $300-500 more than the above very low figures you are allowing the dealer to eat just fine.

bhmr59

"A very low price for a 4 cyl GLS after subtracting the dealer hold back and including the $500 rebate is $17636. HMCF fininancing would lower that by $1000. The dealer is of course entitled to some profit so look for something above that figure. TTL are local costs and aren't much use here on a forum.

A very low price for a 6 cyl GLS excluding rebates is 17452. Rebates would, of course, lower that figure."

You said the 4 cyl after subtracting holdback and after including $500 rebate is $17,636. Then you said the 6 cyl BEFORE rebates is $17,452. That's almost $200 less for the 6 vs the 4 and after you considered rebates for the 4 but before considering rebates for the 6. The "rebate to all" is presently $1,000 on the 6 and $500 on the 4. So, as you typed it, you are saying the 6 cyl should cost $700 less than the 4 cyl. Was there a typo or am I just not understanding your statements?

larryxp

One more time. Buying a 4 cyl at $500(+$1000 finance rebate) below MSRP or a 6 cyl at $1000(+$1000 finance rebate)below MSRP is not getting a great deal IMHO. The finance rebate is designed to get you to use HMFC at what is likely a higher rate than you could get elsewhere. The $500 consumer rebate is a "market adjustment" that you see by dealers with more popular cars, only going up in price. I've seen it on Lexus's and Toyotas; as much at $3000.

The very low prices for the GLS 6 cyl is off. It should been about $18,446 including the $1000 consumer rebate. Add whatever amount you feel is a decent profit and aim for that.

Is anyone able to get near the GLS 4 cyl figure of $17,638 or the 6 cyl GLS figure of 18,446 EXCLUDING the $1000 finance rebate or any other rebate except for the consumer rebate?

stockmanjoe

I paid 18,100 (less 2,000 in rebates). This is for a 4 cyl auto GLS. They agreed way too quick I wish I came down about 500 and I think you can do it.

stockmanjoe

So it was 16,100 out the door.

jib4

So would this be a good deal?
An LX with NO sunroof or stereo upgrade for just under 20K ($19,970) AFTER tax / title / doc fees....
This includes 1k rebate, 1k financing rebate, 1k loyalty.
Anyone?

Sure wish posters would be specific w/ prices. Are we to guess if your cost includes taxes and title? If we don't have a base for comparison then it's meaningless to compare.

thank you to all who provide full disclosure.

bhmr59

If we assume your sales tax rate is 6% and your title & doc fees totaled $200, you would getting the car for about $18,650. Add back the $3,000 in rebates and the dealer is charging you $21,650 which is "about" invoice. (Of course, "Hyundai" is rebating you $3,000 making your cost $18650 & TTL)

Maybe you could do a little better; you certainly could do a lot worse. Looks like a good deal.

jib4

OMG.. I didn't post the 6%. I'm one that I complain about!
Yes 6% tax. I'm going for counseling now for incomplete informers. I'm standing in front of the room now and I'm proclaiming... "Hi, I'm jib4 and I'm a cronic incomplete information provider"... but I only do 9 steps in the program and leave after my first cup of coffee.

I'm going to have to do cut the number down a bit now. Thanks bhmr59.

backy

Actually, for comparison purposes it really helps to state the price BEFORE taxes and fees. The reason is those are variable. So what is your price before the taxes and fees?

bhmr59

Backy, I think the price plus dealer conveyance fee is more appropriate. Conveyance fee varies from dealer to dealer. Two or more dealers can offer the same sales price but have a few hundred dollars difference in actual price due to the conveyance fee. Or, one dealer can offer a price $200 lower but charge a fee which more than make up the apparent price savings.

The dealer I bought from had a $479.50 fee while the guy I walked away from had a fee of "only" $398.50.

In my experience conveyance fees are pre-printed on the sales form. However, they can be eliminated by discounting the car's price further. Fees paid to the state are variable from one state to another, but not within the same state.

My last car, a '91, had conv. fee of $79. The dealer conv. fee has gone up much more than the price of a car in the last 14 years. Conv. fee is a new profit generator for dealers. It is set by the dealer, not the state, and should be considered a part of the purchase price.

backy

I've never paid a "conveyance fee". Is that the same as a documentation fee? Those are regulated in my state--$50-$75 tops. I think such fees should be separated from pricing discussions because they are so variable.

nivek911

Hard to tell OTD pricing with taxes etc being different per state. I bought a LX with Package 3 (Sunroof, etc) for 23,100 before tax, title, and rebates. Hope that helps you decide whether the LX with No sunroof is a good deal.

bhmr59

In CT, conveyance fee and documentatin fee are the same. This fee is NOT regulated by the State of CT. State requires that a notice be posted in the dealership showing what is inculded in the fee. (Try to find it, HA) This is basically for paper work and registering the car. If the buyer does some of the work he is supposed to get a pro rata reduction in the fee. Most people don't know this. It's all laid out in CT's General Statutes, i think it's Sec. 14-62 (or thereabouts).

So, if you quote a price before a $50 to $75 fee and I am looking to buy a car in another state, and that dealer charges a $500 fee, do we have a fair price comparison before tax?

I've seen a $200 difference in conveyance/doc. fee within the State of CT. I bought in FL, flew down there knowing the OTD price, and drove 1365 miles home and netted over $1200 savings. Sales tax is 6% in both states (I only had to pay it once). FL dealer's fee was $90 higher but his bottom line was much lower. Just change a couple things. Say my local dealer is $150 higher than a dealer 50 miles away. I've negotiated over the phone (or however) and make a deal with the guy further away. We drive to buy the car 50 miles away. When we get there we find his bottom line is $50 higher due to the difference in the conveyance/doc. fee. I don't know of anyone who would like that situation. All state fees would be the same but the further away guy would be charging a bottom line of $50 more after quoting a price of $150 less (in addition to having to drive 100 miles round trip to take delivery).

tb88

As of November 2005 and in view of poor sales of Hyundai and most other cars (October 2005) compared to Oct.2004 ; one should be able to get at least $2,000 off the MSRP + whatever Rebates available, and one qualifies for.
I bought a GL 4cyl. Auto for : $17,475 - $2,500 Rebates: $14,975 + Taxes.
MSRP:$19,480(including Destination $600) - $2,005 (discount) - $2,500(Rebates) = $14,975

(Hyundai Sales Oct. 2004: 33,111 ---- Oct. 2005: 29,413)
That is a drop of 11.2% from a year ago! (-3,698 cars) Hyundai sold in Oct. from a year ago.
It would be interesting to see how November sales compare to last Nov.04!
Usually Manufacturers respond to these sales accordngly: If sales are less than a year/month before; they will increase Rebates and Incentives.

bhmr59

Take your OTD price; subtract title, registration and other fees paid to the state (such as tire or battery disposal). This will tell you how much you are paying for the car including sales tax. Devide that price by 1.xx. ".xx" equals your sales tax (6% = .06; if sales tax is 6% devide by 1.06). Then deduct the amount of the rebates you're getting. This will tell you how much you are paying for the car after the rebate(s).

The result may be slightly off because some states don't tax the rebate amount and some may not tax the conveyance fee.

Or simpler, if you have a contract, subtract sales tax, etc from the OTD price.

bhmr59

That all depends on the model of the car you are looking at. Sonata sales are up about 1100 from a year ago. XG's were down and so were Elantra's, presumably due to limited supply.

Manufacturers respond to model sales, not the Brand sales.

Think back to the Ford Fairmont (ugh) and Mustang. Ford didn't lower the Mustang price because of the Fairmont.

yidp5

I feel like I did get a very good deal for
Sonata 2006 GL-AT. Out the door 16 540 ( I got 2500 rebates).

Here it is more info.
I red somewhere: the last 2 days a the best for getting a deal-all car dealers have quotes to meet monthly.
So I did send sent some e-mails on 27 and 28, NEGOTIATE
and let them fight their own "balloon prices".

The best one was 16500 otd(rebate 2500).
I went down to the dealer. There was a few more attempts to add t+t+t. We have shaken hands - 16500. I was about to sign for 16 500 and the manager came with some $40 for...... bunch of BS.

For me, this came to confirm the nature of this business.

I would like to Thank All and "Edmunds". Would not be possible without your help.

backy

So, if you quote a price before a $50 to $75 fee and I am looking to buy a car in another state, and that dealer charges a $500 fee, do we have a fair price comparison before tax?

We have a comparison before tax. All I am saying is that I think people who post prices here should break out all taxes and fees and list them separately, e.g. (Hypothetical example):

2006 Sonata GLS - no options:
MSRP including destination: $19,995
Discounted price: $18,500
Rebate: $500
Loyalty rebate: $1000
HMFC rebate: $1000
Price after discount and rebates: $16,000
Sales tax @ 6.5%: $1040
Doc Fee: $50
License: $300
Total out the door: $17,390

If you disagree with that approach, fine--let's move on.

larryxp

I've finally made an offer on a 4 cyl GLS with a sunroof. Here's the breakdown after a meeting with the sales manager.

MRSP $20,845 - no rebate
Invoice $19,280 - no rebate
Offer $19,328 - Including $500 consumer rebate
$18,444 - without sunroof

Two problems with negotiating. The advertising fee was $342 and this dealer extends the power train warranty to 20/200,000 which adds about $250. Both items could not be changed.

His original offer was MRSP-$500 rebate. His last offer was invoice +300. My last offer was the above. I split the difference between where the salesman's figure and mine.

Should I push harder or is this fair? The HMFC rebate(only one I can try for) is not included in above numbers.

backy

I would push if I were you, especially on the 20/200 warranty--unless you really think you'll keep the car more than 10 years, OR unless this extra warranty is transferrable to any other owners--then it might be worthwhile. Be sure the warranty is from Hyundai, though--3rd-party warranty companies can go belly-up and then in 10 years you'll have nothing. There is no reason the dealer can't drop the 20/200 warranty if you insist--they are the ones who added it, and it's just paper, so no cost to them to drop it. On the adv fee, some dealers are really adamant about that and actually do pay that fee, so then you just need to factor it into the overall deal. But some dealers do NOT charge this fee, so it might be a good idea to call some within, say, a 100 mile radius of you and see what they say. Also think about getting the HMFC financing if you qualify for it--then refinance right away; you could easily save $900 or so that way.

stockmanjoe

I think you were right on. I paid 18,100 minus 2,000 in rebates. A pretty good deal but I think I could have done 500 or so better. Glad you did!!

zen2

Conveyance fee? I've bought maybe 10 or 12 new cars,
never heard of that one. Wouldn't pay it if I did
see it. What state do you live in? I've bought
cars in NY, Va. and Pa. Is that something like
Additional Dealer Markup, with a new name?
I also never paid that in the DC area, just drove
a little further, where there was no Additional
Dealer Markup.

larryxp

I finally got tired of this process and settled. Some final thoughts are that the warranty is transferable. The extra 10/100 is good for the extra miles, not necessarily for the 10 years. 100K miles is easy to pass in much less than 10 years.

Read the contract carefully. They had left the $500 consumer rebate off.

They tried to sell a $1000 plan to extend the bumper to bumper to 100K. Not likely worth it, especially since I had to fork over $250 for the power train 10/100 extension.

The HMFC rate is high, about 9.5%. They finance 100% of the price and like long terms. Personally if you need a loan longer than three years you have the wrong car.

The rebates are taken off at the time of purchase so you don't have to wait for them.

rkramb

I am posting this to warn potential Hyundai buyers in the Dayton/Cincinnati area of my mother-in-law's experience with Voss Hyundai in Centerville. She had agreed over the phone with a salesman there to a price of $17,700 for a Black GL Sonata. (additional details: $100 doc fee, 6.3% HMFC rate for 60 mo, tax around $1100) She went to the dealer to pick up the vehicle after work. When she got there, the salesman said someone else was test driving the car, and they had first choice. (She thinks they said that because the other customer offered a higher price even though the salesman had already agreed to sell it to her) They sold the car to the other customer and she walked out. :mad: I guess we'll try again at another dealer if Hyundai renews the rebates.

bhmr59

Maybe you know this fee by another name, such as documentation fee. Here is a paste from Connecticut General Statutes Sec. 14-62: "(c) Each dealer shall provide a written statement to the buyer or prominently display a sign in the area of his place of business in which sales are negotiated which shall specify the amount of any conveyance or processing fee charged by such dealer, the services performed by the dealer for such fee, that such fee is not payable to the state of Connecticut and that the buyer may elect, where appropriate, to submit the documentation required for the registration and transfer of ownership of the motor vehicle which is the subject of the sale to the Commissioner of Motor Vehicles, in which case the dealer shall reduce such fee by a proportional amount. The Commissioner of Motor Vehicles shall determine the size, typeface and arrangement of such information."

This fee, by whatever name some states call it,is charged in CT & FL to my knowledge, probably many more states as well. While this is a BS paperwork fee to close out the deal, the dealer can negate it by reducing the price of the car by an amount equal to the fee. It is not ADM, at least in CT. It is a separate fee that the state requires to be shown as a processing fee to the dealer.

Wanna bet it was proposed by lobbyists for car dealers? Liberal legislators would have jumped on it under the guise of "consumer protection." The fee varies from dealer to dealer. That's why I suggested to backy that this fee should be included when posting prices. His reply of a full listing of all prices was even better.

I posted earlier that I bought in FL while I live in CT. FL dealer conveyance fee was pre-printed on sales contract, as it was in CT. FL dealer's fee was $90 higher, but it didn't matter because the price was about $1500 lower. FL dealer simply discounted the price more.

Years back this fee was nominal. It's become a major profit generator. Even when it was $50 I felt is was a rip off. What other product do you buy and have the seller charge you extra to process the paper work of the sale?

bhmr59

Doc/conveyance fee is not a tax. It is a fee the dealers keep and therefore should be considered in the price the dealer is charging.

Your suggested price break out makes the most sense. I was trying to point out that the doc/conveyance is strictly a dealer fee, dealer keeps it and should be part of the price the dealer quotes.

backy

I agree. I didn't say the doc/conveyance fee was a tax.

metafizik

I purchased my 2nd Sonata LX in the past year from Keffer Hyundai in Charlotte, NC. I liked our 2005 LX so much I couldn't resist the 2006 after having driven it. I paid 21,200 out the door after the $3000 in rebates (Aquamarine/Tan). I guess it was an ok deal but I probably could have done better with more haggling. The taxes, tags and fees seemed a bit high but I am very happy overall. It's amazing how much different the 2 Sonatas look parked side by side. If you weren't familar with them you'd never know they were the same make and model. I can only hope the new one gives us the same troublefree performance as the 2005 has thus far. I know the wife will be happy to be driving the 2005 everyday after all the hassles we have had lately with our aging Chrysler products('94 Concorde and '94 Dakota). It's about junkyard time for those 2 vehicles.

averigejoe

In Arizona, most dealers are charging $250 to $350 for the doc fee. Documentation? Hahaha. What a joke.

94hawkskin

Am interested in the new Sonata, but have some questions. Is the GLS worth the extra money and are there still rebates coming from Hyundai for December? When I looked it said no incentives for the Sonata. I live in Baton Rouge and I also checked Houston.

backy

Rebates are as they were in November, but now the GLS lease deal is $189/mo, down $10.

I think the GLS is a great value over the GL. For about $500 you get mats (extra on the GL), fog lamps (Honda charges over $500 for those on a new Civic), alloy wheels, steering-wheel audio controls, lumbar support, automatic headlights, trip computer, chrome trim, and nicer sill plates. The alloys alone are probably worth about $500.

zen2

On the Sonata I paid a 55 dollar documentation fee.
This is not too bad considering what AAA and
notaries charge for doing title and registration
work. Pa. is a strange state. This was the only extra fee on my bill of sale.

tb88

"...I think the GLS is a great value over the GL. For about $500 you get mats (extra on the GL), fog lamps (Honda charges over $500 for those on a new Civic), alloy wheels, steering-wheel audio controls, lumbar support, automatic headlights, trip computer, chrome trim, and nicer sill plates. The alloys alone are probably worth about $500...."

$1,500 difference... not $500!
But IMO, it is still a good/great value for the price...

What is even a better deal is the the GLS V6 : because for another $1,000 ($1,500-$500 [rebate difference from the 4cyl.] = #1,000; you get a fully loaded car and a lot quieter (it is not that the 4 cyl is too loud but you can still hear it!.
So, for a total of an extra $2,500 or less (if you are a good haggler) you get the best deal ever!
I wish I took that myself... but I bought mine on the spur of the moment without taking time to evaluate the difference.
But I am still happy with the GL... even though I could have been happier with the GLS!!!

backy

It's $500 when you compare automatic-to-automatic. Of course, the stick shift is $1000 less.

tb88

You are correct! Sorry about that!
Now I am really pissed off for not getting the GLS for an extra $500!
I wish I did not rush into it, before evaluating both styles!

nivek911

Robert:

Just curious, the actual price of the car was what? Was it $22,100 before the rebates, taxes, etc?

lightfootfl

Hey guys, tb88, backy, 94 hawkskin
Don't forget the extra "solar control Glass" thrown in for free on the GLS V6

tb88

You must be joking!
How come it is not mentioned anywhere? I just compared all trims and they say:
Tinted Windows: light light light light
I just spent $145 to tint the glass!

ps: I just looked in the Sonata brochure and there it says :Solar control for the GLS V6 and the LX!
Does that adjust to the light? Darkens when it is too bright?

tiburon118

I see a lot of prices that appear below "invoice" out here along with some confusion about what each set of numbers includes or doesn't. Here my clarifying 2-cents.

On my deal (GLS v6 no packages), the Edmunds invoice including destination was $19,831. The Dealer showed an invoice of $20,431 (which included a $600 National advertising charge above the Edmunds total).

I negotiated a pre-TT&L price of $20,229 (17,229 from me and 3,000 from rebates). So depending on which invoice you believe, I either paid $398 over the Edmunds invoice or $202 below the Dealer invoice. Plus, I got a window tint tossed in.

Not bad either way. I neither believe that I was soaked nor that the dealer got rich on my deal. I don't know what to think about so many claims about negotiated prices coming in so dramatically below invoice. Frankly, I have tired-head trying to sort out what the various examples include or not.

Yeah, I know that there is a dealer hold-back but it's not that large and dealers don'readily dip into that. Through research I couldn't find any other incentives to the dealer although there may be other expense reimbursement that we never will be able to quantify.

And I am sure that there are some folks out there getting better prices than I did - and some that aren't. But what I can say I that after the first thousand miles, I feel I have one heckofa car and a great value - one that probably can't be touched by Honda or Toyota. In the end, isn't that what really matters?

94hawkskin

dealership in Baton Rouge. Overall not a bad experience. I test drove an 06 GLS with no extras. The window sticker said 19995 plus a thousand dollars for some underspray rustproofing. I immediatly told the salesman I was not going to pay for that. Sure enough when we got into negotiate a price he came in with a price of 20,500. I said the MSRP is only 19995 and he said that they couldn't remove the rustproofing. I again told him I will not take that. He went back and sure enough came back with 19,500 in which I took the price and slashed 1,500 from it for the rebates that I qualified for to make it 18,000 and then wrote down I will pay 17,000 for the car.

He kind of laughed and then came back in with his manager. His manager said he could do the 18,000. I said I will only go to 17,400. He agreed initially, but then came back and said with the $500 advertising fee and the $600 destination charge the invoice comes to over 19,600 and then with the rebates it would be 18,100 and that they would sell it for 18,000 because they can still get a bonus.

I said I will settle for 17,600 (Don't know why) and they again agreed. I told them that I would pick the car up on Saturday and they said that for them to get there bonus that they would need to get the paperwork done tonight. After some more haggling I got another 50 bucks, 3 tanks of gas and 2 oil changes to bring my total to 17,550.

Here is a summary of everything I paid. I actually pick the car up on Saturday, so technically it still belongs to the dealership. I feel pretty confident about the price, but was wondering what others thought, since I still have time to change my mind.

20791.74 Total before any rebates and with TTL
-1500 (500 rebate and 1,000 financing rebate that I will refinance)
-1579.14 (Louisiana sales tax)
-162 TTL and other fees
= 17550 plus two oil changes, three tanks of gas, and the so called rust proofing underspray.

The total amount that I financed was 19291.74 that included my TTL.

Tell me what you think. Also, is the advertising cost for real. I have seen others on here who have said it is hard to negotiate against.

jrock65

Can I get the $1000 HMFC rebate and then pay off the loan the next day after the purchase?

tb88

...plus a thousand dollars for some underspray rustproofing
They tried to pull a fast one on you with that old gimmick of rustproofing/spray nonsense!
A GLS 4cyl- Auto4 :MSRP is 19,395 + 600 destination charge which comes to $19,995 + advertising cost which most dealers try to pass on to the buyer is around $400: Some dealers call it Prep/Documents...
It appears to me that he used an overinflated sticker price ( i believe that the stickers are manipulated and printed at the dealership!)... so one must be aware of the real MSRP by looking it up here at Edmunds/or CarDirect/ or KBB.
The19,995 you give first as sticker price above is the real MSRP including 600 Destination for a GLS 4Cyl - Auto4.
IMO this dealer played a dirty trick by inflating the price!(unless there are Options): It looks like he added destination :$600 twice!

larryxp

Yes. The dealer likes you to wait 90 days so they can get their cut. There is no prepayment penalty.

tb88

"... I actually pick the car up on Saturday, so technically it still belongs to the dealership..."
No, once you sign the papers it is yours!
But in the unlikely event you can get out of it; and to have peace of mind, I would ask for quotes from as many dealers as I can in the area!
It can be done by phone and/or e-mail.
As a rule of thumb; the going discount price before any Rebate is applied is -$2,000 from the MSRP!
PS: most dealers give FREE Service for 1year/12,000 miles