Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!
Options
Most popular vehicles
Popular New Cars
- New Acura MDX
- New Acura RDX
- New Audi Q5
- New BMW 3 Series
- New BMW X3
- New Buick Enclave
- New Cadillac Escalade
- New Chevrolet Equinox
- New Chrysler 300
- New Dodge Challenger
- New Ford Edge
- New Ford Escape
- New Ford Expedition
- New Ford Explorer
- New Ford F-150
- New Ford Focus
- New Ford Mustang
- New Honda Accord
- New Honda Civic
- New Honda CR-V
- New Honda Fit
- New Honda Odyssey
- New Honda Pilot
- New Hyundai Elantra
- New Hyundai Santa Fe
- New Hyundai Sonata
- New Hyundai Tucson
- New Jeep Compass
- New Jeep Grand Cherokee
- New Jeep Wrangler
- New Mazda 3
- New Mazda 6
- New Mazda CX-5
- New Nissan Altima
- New Nissan Maxima
- New Nissan Rogue
- New Porsche Cayenne
- New Ram 1500
- New Subaru Crosstrek
- New Subaru Forester
- New Subaru Impreza
- New Subaru Outback
- New Tesla Model S
- New Tesla Model X
- New Toyota 4Runner
- New Toyota Camry
- New Toyota Corolla
- New Toyota Highlander
- New Toyota Prius
- New Toyota RAV4
- New Toyota Sienna
- New Toyota Tacoma
- New Volkswagen Jetta
- New Volvo XC60
- New Volvo XC90
Popular Used Sedans
- Used BMW 5 Series
- Used Chevrolet Impala
- Used Chevrolet Malibu
- Used Chrysler 200
- Used Dodge Charger
- Used Ford Fusion
- Used Ford Taurus
- Used Honda Accord
- Used Honda Civic
- Used Hyundai Elantra
- Used Hyundai Sonata
- Used Tesla Model S
- Used Toyota Camry
- Used Toyota Corolla
- Used Volkswagen Jetta
Popular Used SUVs
- Used Acura MDX
- Used Acura RDX
- Used Ford Edge
- Used Ford Explorer
- Used Honda CR-V
- Used Honda Pilot
- Used Hyundai Santa Fe
- Used Jeep Compass
- Used Lincoln Navigator
- Used Mazda CX-5
- Used Nissan Rogue
- Used Subaru Crosstrek
- Used Subaru Forester
- Used Tesla Model X
- Used Volvo XC90
Popular Used Pickup Trucks
Popular Used Hatchbacks
Popular Used Minivans
Popular Used Coupes
Popular Used Wagons
Comments
MSRP?: Selling Price of new Car?: Amount of any applicable rebates?: Dealer fees, such as Doc fee?: (You've answered trade-in value at $4500, plus the $800 upside down): plus title and registration. All this should equal your OTD price.
Remember, while they gave more for your trade-in, they still had some value in that trade-in after paying off the note.
It all boils down to: what was the price of the car, before trade-in, taxes and registration. (Note, I did not say before Doc. fee since that is part of what the dealer is charging you for the car.)
What are your experience for buyers who went through a dealer exchange.
Thanks.
How good of a deal these two cars are depends on their options and their condition. Be aware that because these are used cars you don't get the remainder of the original power train warranty. You only get the remainder of 5 years 60,000 miles on the power train. I believe that the remainder of the original bumper to bumper (5 yr, 60,000 mi) still applies. I recommend before you buy either of these cars that you drive them over rough and bumpy pavement as some owners have reported suspension noises.
If you want a new 2007 V6, expect to pay about $4,000 more. A 2008 V6 will cost even more because you don't get the $2,500 rebate.
BTW, I own a 2006 GLS V6 and love the car.
MSRP(window sticker): $26,395.00
Selling Price: $25,763.17 (including sales tax)
Sales Tax: $1,338.71
Rebate: $3,000
License and Reg: $171.00
NJ Tire Tax Fee: $7.50
Doc Fee: $289.00
Down Payment: $3,000
OTD: $23,230.67
Amount Financed: $20,230.67
Guess what, upon second glance at my contract, I see that they didn't penalize me for the trade in. It says that the car's gross allowance(money paid by the dealership) is 5,300, less the amount owing 5,300 equals a net trade in of 0(zero). So it looks like they didn't add the 800 to the top of my deal. Only thing they probably got away with was the Doc fee.
The Sandman :confuse:
Sunroof
Power driver's seat
17" wheels
Believe the suspension noise cited by some owners were mainly with the 2006 and early 2007. I've not had that problem with my 2006 Sonata.
Also before you buy either of the used vehicles consult an owner's manual and make sure the dealer has done all the 30,000 mile scheduled maintenance.
Selling price before rebates was $24,424.46 which is about $350 below invoice.
Sales tax of $1,338.71 @ 7% indicates you paid sales tax on $19,124.42. Add back the $5300 trade-in (because you get a sales tax exemption on the value of the trade-in) and you are back to the $24,424. So the numbers check out.
Then you have the $3,000 rebate (including owner loyalty?) for a price of $21,424 plus the $289 doc fee for a total paid to the dealer of $21,713. The rest of the charges went to the great state of NJ.
That was a good deal.
Thanks!
I am sure the 6 cyl one would be even more peppy, but you will suffer 10% less MPG. Test drive yourself and see if 4-cyl power is enough for you. Another note, in the long run, they say the 4-cyl engine is more robust and easier to maintain.
Thanks for sharing your thoughts. Two more questions/concerns, the SE is what my husband really wants because he likes the look of the 17" alloy wheels plus the auto-dimming rear view mirror, compass, etc. He's a features guy.
1. The dealer has 18" chrome alloys on the SE right now but will switch those out for the standard 17" alloys if we buy the car. Should I make a big deal about test driving an SE with the 17" wheels before I buy this car? Should I expect any negative ride impact from switching to the 17" wheels? The dealer does not want to switch out the wheels until after we buy the car. I just want to make sure that the change in wheels is not going to result in a less comfortable ride? It's my understanding that the 17" wheels should actually provide a better ride, is that correct?
2. The dealer has had this car on his lot since the end of last year. It has 56 miles on it. Should I be concerned about buying a car that has been sitting around the dealer's lot that long? Anything I should ask or double-check? The build date was July 2006 and dealer received it in November 2006. I'm guessing that it was just harder to sell once the newer 2007s came in because it doesn't have the XM radio, or the steering wheel audio controls.
Thanks again for all your help. I just don't want to make a decision that I will regret. I think I can live with the reduced gas mileage but I wanted to double-check these other concerns with you all. We are supposed to go and buy the car today so please answer as soon as possible. Thanks!
If I were you, I'd mention the 56 miles, who knows, maybe the dealer will throw in a couple of free oil changes. As to the color, I'd go with the gray, especially if you have kids. Not sure about extended warranty. But for me the factory 5yr/60k bumper-to-bumper and 10yr/100k powertrain is more than enough.
As for the age of the car, be sure to inspect it carefully for any body or interior damage, e.g. hail or door dings. Make sure they are taken care of before delivery. I agree about asking for a couple oil changes or whatever. If the car doesn't have mats ($85 option), ask for those to be thrown into the deal--you'll want them.
As for warranty, I think a lot depends on your tolerance for risk and how long you plan on keeping the car. If you can get a good price on the extended warranty (as in under $1000), I'd consider it. One benefit is that it's transferrable to the next owner, and it's 10/100k bumper to bumper. It used to be (maybe still is) that you could get the Hyundai extended warranty up to 1 year/12k miles after purchase. You might check with the dealer on that. If so, it lets you wait, which does no harm since you won't actually use that extended warranty for a few years (unless you sell the car).
I am in the proces of buying new sonota. Can you tell me the excat model of your car and also details of the financing.Is it auto or stic?
thnx.
vipul patel
Is this price good? Not many cars left to buy though. They provided VIN for the car and asked for deposit paid by credit card to hold the car. Does it sound normal?
And the dealer offers referral bonus, if anyone in Eastern Mass is interested, send email to lvdouwa@carspace.com
07 Deepwater Blue Sonata SE, AT, moonroof + floormats
TMV Price, $21,519 (average price "other" people pay before rebate)
My invoice
$20,774
+399 processing
+635.19 VA sales tax (3.2 or so)
+42.35 Dealer business license tax?
+10.00 online systems fee
+49.50 Title/License
= $21,910.03
-2500 manf rebate
-500 Hyundai financing rebate @ 6.65%
-500 military discount
$18,410 OTD
Was planning on paying $17,500 OTD for a 07 Civic LE base model, glad I went with the Sonata, I love it.
Tysinger is a really good dealership, I went to Hall Hyundai and got the high pressure sales tactic and rude attitude while negotiating a price. They wanted $19,200 OTD and made me feel like I was trying to steal from them.
Make sure you get the Hyundai financing rebate + the $2500 cash rebate, Hall Hyundai said I couldn't get both.
* You see cars listed for $16k+. But... what are they selling for? Are these at dealers or private party? (You won't get a retail price for a private-party sale.) A new 2007 can be had for not much more than that. Who would buy a used 2006 at that price?
* What would you buy? What would give you comparable value for a little more than what you've paid for the Sonata? Would it be new or used? If used, would it be in as good a shape as yours? Also when you buy another car, you'll (probably) need to pay sales tax and other fees. Factor that into the equation. So if you can get, say $14k for your Sonata, you won't be able to afford another car much more than about $13k, depending on taxes/fees.
Processing $399-wow, that is exorbitant.
Dealer Business License Tax $42.35-that's a new one, are dealers getting more desperate or more creative-which is it?
Online Systems Fee $10-nice sounding name.
Are these fees unique to Virginia and did you question any of them?
Before I left and without doing any negotiating he offered 3,000 off the sticker price for any 2008 Sonata model . I doubled checked with the manager and he confirmed and said the offer would stand until tomorrow.
I'm going back tommorow with my Pops. Is 3k off sticker for a brand new Sonata a good deal?....Should I push for more?
There's currently a $1000 general rebate and $500 loyalty rebate (if someone in your immediate family owns a Hyundai). If you qualify for only the general rebate (no loyalty, military, or graduate rebates) then that's a pretty good deal from the dealer, several hundred bucks under invoice. There may be some manufacturer-to-dealer incentives going on, allowing the dealer to sell way under invoice and still make a profit.
'06 LX, 12K to 35K miles: $14K to $17K
'07 SE, 5K to 20K miles: $16K to $19K
Saw an '07 Limited with 8K miles, for $17K
My spending limit will be $16,000. Tax in CA is 8.25%, meaning the purchase price should be around $14,750 max, including any doc fees.
Has anyone gotten a good deal on a used '06 LX or '07 SE or Limited? If so, I would greatly appreciate any details you can share about your purchase.
Dealer Business License Tax $42.35-that's a new one, are dealers getting more desperate or more creative-which is it?
Online Systems Fee $10-nice sounding name.
Are these fees unique to Virginia and did you question any of them?"
The online systems fee is pretty stupid, it was only $10 though. Dealer business tax? You got me there too, I didn't question anything though as long as my OTD price was still honored. I haggled the best I could to get one of the dealerships to get my OTD price to $19,000. Turned out I got the same rate for my loan through Hyundai as it was through my home bank, so I got an additional $500 off for that.
According to Edmunds the invoice price for the car is $21,408, the "what others are paying" price is $21,519. They charged me $20,774, so adding the processing fee's I'm still a couple hundred bucks under invoice. $225 under invoice + tax/title while taking advantage of $3,500 in rebates seemed like a good deal to me.
Look around and find what model and features you want. Once you've picked out a car you want, go to edmunds.com and price the car in your zip code with the options you want. Doing this will give you the invoice price of the car, and the price other people are generally paying. For example
08 Sonata SE Auto Trans w/ floormats goes for $21,769 invoice, with the edmunds TMV price at $22,668
Subtract any rebates you qualify for and go from there. I'd set a goal of paying edmunds invoice price -rebates + tax/title. Contact dealerships by email/phone and see what they're offering. Most of the time you will get a otd price $1,500-$2,500 more than what it costs them. If you're happy with invoice + tax/title - rebates then give them that price, and say you won't buy unless they will meet it. If they don't, talk to a different dealership, see what they say. Once they know you're willing to buy the vehicle, the price being the only problem, they will meet your requirement, or they will get as close as they truly can. Once you get the price you want, don't be afraid to again call up their competitors and see if you can get another $100+ off or so, maybe some free oil changes, etc. That's up to you though, even when they seem like they won't budge, there's usually something more you can squeeze out of them
If the dealership gives you a guilt trip claiming they aren't making any money because you're getting the car for invoice and not paying any other fees - play them the worlds smallest violin. Dealers make money by getting those vehicles off the lot, holdback, inventives, etc..they're doing fine. The salesman may be disappointed because he's not making $1,000+ by selling you an overpriced vehicle, but F him, let him overcharge someone who is willing to pay more for having their asses kissed. Don't be afraid to walk out, 9 times out of 10 if you can't work out a deal they will call you back offering you a lower price. Just don't rush a purchase.
How good i did? :confuse:
I have to disagree with this. Being in the car business if they meet your price and you told them you would buy at that price you darn well better buy. That's the way it should work. I guess in a perfect world that's how it should work. But why not mess with the car guys?
In my mind in a perfect world when you go to the dealership there wouldn't be any games. When you go in to the finance office they wouldn't try to sell you "mop and glow" over priced warranties. etc.
2011 Hyundai Sonata, 2014 BMW 428i convertible, 2015 Honda CTX700D
2011 Hyundai Sonata, 2014 BMW 428i convertible, 2015 Honda CTX700D
I actually ending up purchasing the car b4 you posted however I did do some of things that you mentioned.
Here's a quick rundown of my deal for the sake of others.
I purchased a new 2008 Hyundai Sonata GLS V4 A/T Black with Popular Equipment package.
MSRP: $20,195
Invoice: $19,350
TMV: $19,369
+ taxes, titles & fees.
So the total OTD Invoice/TMV price was close to 20,500 if my calculatoions are correct.
I ended up paying $17,000 OTD (I received 750$ on trade in on a very very beat up 95 Nissan Sentra --- I was really happy with that value --- the car was in horrid shape)
I feel like I got a pretty good deal.
I put 5000 dollars down and financed 12k at 6.85% rate for 6 years.
My monthly payment is $204.
Only thing i'm not sure if i did right by paying 499 for interior & exterior armoring. They said it GREAT thing.
BUT it's worthed. I love it!