Oldsmobile Aurora: Modifications

nne3jxc · February 2003

Kayaman,

I put KYBs in the front of my 95 last spring. This is what I wrote about them then:

...After adding the KYB struts, the ride has changed significantly. The body roll has been dampened as well as the disconcerting "float" of the front end over rises/dips in the road. The body stays more level and gives a greater sense of confidence while maintaining a comfortable, even ride.

And after almost a year, I still like the ride and handling.

Jim

mindseye97 · February 2003

I put Monroes on the front and rear last fall at around 65K on my '97. I'm happy with them so far but it remains to be seen if they can withstand Michigan roads which are as bad as you all have heard about. I had a '95 Grand Am that burned out 3 sets of struts in 80K miles. Unlike that setup, the stout Aurora suspension and body is up to the task, that much I'm sure of.

Henry · February 2003

I kept the rear shocks factory because of the load leveling system.

I had been advised by folks that sold aftermarket parts to stay with the GM to make sure the fittings on the load leveling system matchup.

Have you run into problems with the LL system??

mindseye97 · February 2003

The Monroe's work fine with the LL system. It was one of the easiest shock swaps I have done. The set was around $60 and the stock air line just pushes on the fitting. There is a spring clip to hold it on which seemed a little loose but when squeezed with pliers it seems to hold fine.

nne3jxc · February 2003

Hey Guys,
A few posts above, I wrote about the KYBs I put on the front of my 95. I need to do the rears soon too. What do you think of KYBs on the front and Monroes on the back? Do you see any problems with that setup?

BTW: Are the Monroes any firmer than stock? And what model are they?

Thanks,
Jim

mindseye97 · February 2003

I would do the rears anyway as the airbags are most likely leaking air and letting the body really LEAN in corners. The air pump comes on shortly after you start the car and if they leak the pump stops trying to fill them. I noticed an improvement with Monroes controlling the lean although not a lot firmer than stock (something I don't need living on a dirt road). Don't know the part#s but just ask for your year and the fronts should be Sensetrack and the rears are standard air shocks.

kayaman420 · February 2003

I bought some infinity 6x9's and door speakers to replace my stocks. Does anyone know what the factory color codes are for the speaker wires, I mean as far as positive and negative go.

Also the doors are lined in plastic. Would it be wise for me to cut out the plastic behind the speaker or should I leave it the way it is? The magnet is much bigger than the stocks.

Thanks

sinatra2 · February 2003

Do not cut the plastic in the doors as that acts as a moisture protection. This can be peeled away from the back of the panel and re sealed afterwards.
Colour codes
Right rear + dk blue - lt blue
Left rear + brown - Yellow
Right front + lt green - dk green
Right F tweeter + lt green - dk green
Left front + tan - grew
Left F tweeter + tan - grey

This is for a 96 with the standard 6 speaker system. I believe it should be the same for years 95 through 98.

sinatra2 · February 2003

grew should read Gray and grey should read Gray....colour is correct in the great white north...............have a good one

kayaman420 · February 2003

Thanks a million. Hope I can help you with something one day.

Henry · February 2003

One Thing I got confirmed in this snow storm in the great state of New Jersey.
MY TIRES SUCK!

sinatra2 · February 2003

your welcome, glad to be of help........let us know how the speaker change went and if you notice a great improvement in sound quality

Cheers

kayaman420 · February 2003

It went very well. They sound great even though I am still using the stock deck, but it seems to push them just fine. I seem to have a little more vibration noise in my doors though since the new speakers create more bass. Any cures for this???

javidogg · February 2003

I'm going to replace in a couple of minutes, I got to see the wiring for my 1999 Aurora, sinatra2 posted some color codes, hopefully they will be the same for mine.

I'm going with some Kenwood 3/4" tweeters, 170 watts each.

I need to replaced them bad, every time I turn up the volume on my Kenwood eXcelon deck I can hear the tweeters rattling in there, there for sure popped.

I'll let you all know how it went.

Http://www.cardomain.com/id/javidogg

mike98c · February 2003

I replaced mine with a polk audio tweeter and midbass set, whaat a dif.

Henry · February 2003

I wanted to put them in the Aurora but I did not have the money. But those Focals sound better than my home speakers which are polks. Granted the polks are 20 years old.

mike98c · February 2003

I don't call me Mr. thrifty (well maybe that's not the exact word that my friends use) for NOTHING.:-)

javidogg · February 2003

I finished them yesterday, Oh man what a pain they were, sort of.

I had to take the whole door panel of the frame of the door, to get inside the back of the door and unplug the whole wiring, placed the door panel on a table and spliced the wires to add the tweeters that came wich also came with a In-Line High-Pass Filter to my 6 3/4 Kenwood speakers.

At first I thought I was going to keep the original tweeter grill that came with the Aurora but, the installation did not allow me to keep the original Aurora tweeter grill, So I did a flush installation using the Kenwood tweeter grills which fit perfectly, and man it looked so sweet.

I'm very happy with the outcome and the sound is 100% better than the stock tweeters.

If anyone out there has their tweeters blown, replaced them right away you don't know what you've been missing till you replace them with newer ones, preferly aftermarket ones if you have an aftermarket radio like me.

Peace.

Javier

Http://www.cardomain.com/id/javidogg

larryfl · February 2003

javidogg, Mike98c: Ok, I'm confused. I have the Bose system in mine and the speakers sound great for how I use it (and yes, I've been known to rattle a few mirrors).

I didn't think I could replace them. Do you all have the non-bose system?

Henry · February 2003

mike98c · February 2003

YES.

javidogg · February 2003

In Reply To:______________________________________________________

Javidogg, Mike98c: Ok, I'm confused. I have the Bose system in mine and the speakers sound great for how I use it (and yes, I've been known to rattle a few mirrors).

I didn't think I could replace them. Do you all have the non-bose system?

_________________________________________________________

I have in my 1999 Aurora the Non-Bose sytem, I guess for me is a lot easier to replace and upgrade my tweeters.

I think for some people like larryfl it would be some what challenging to upgrade or replace their 1" tweeters simply because I believe the speakers that are in a Aurora that has the Bose system come with a separate amp for the speakers, that might include the tweeters but ah, I could be wrong.

I have a tip, if you are looking to replace them call or drop an e-mail to Crutchfield.com or call a Product Advisor at 1-888-955-6000, 8am - midnight, Eastern, for more information.

Trust me those people at Crutchfield know their stuff.

That's all I have for now, I'll be enjoying my new set of tweeters for now.

Peace.

Http://www.cardomain.com/id/javidogg

javidogg · February 2003

Friday finally I finished the set-up on my aftermarket system, I hooked up a Kenwood eXcelon X201T amp with a JL Audio 12"W3V2 speaker in a bandpass box.

I got it all set and it sounds nice, my system is not like heard blocks away but ah, it gives it that bass that is needed for some cruzin' jams, I got the amp bridge and the JL Audio speaker is hooked up in series, so the dual voice coils are actually being used at it's fullest, as well as the Excelon amp.

I'll try to get some pictures up and running as soon as I get a chance at cardomian.com.

Peace.

Http://www.cardomain.com/id/javidogg

800wattaurora · February 2003

Bet it sounds pretty nice. Congrats on the new stereo set-up. Looking forward to seeing the pictures.

http://www.cardomain.com/id/800wattaurora

mariposarosada · February 2003

Hey guys!
I've replace the front door and rear deck speakers (non Bose) in my Classic with Polk 2- and 3-ways, respectively. But, I haven't yet replaced the tweeters. Do you think it will make much a difference if I do?

I wish Olds would have put them on the dash-- Tweeters sound so much better there.

mike98c · February 2003

Well i'm tired of replacing the bulbs of the foglamps (no I don't touch the glass capsules) so I think i'm going to use two of the burned out bulbs and solder high output leds to the posts. now what color white, yellow or blue. Hmm.

javidogg · March 2003

Hey people I had these idea, I wanted to replace my drivers side power window console switch with one from a 1994-1996 Chevy Impala SS, which has the chrome button switches, it kind of looks like it's the same size as the Aurora's.

Does anyone here know the correct part number for both the Aurora and Impala switch box?

I know somewhere out there, there is a GM website listing the part numbers but ah, I'm hoping some would know these.

Any input on these would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks.

http://www.cardomain.com/id/javidogg

hammen2 · March 2003

Javi, try http://www.gmpartsdirect.com and use the "alternate" search. (I think the URL is http://www.gmpartsdirect.com/partsvoice/

The driver's side ("master") power window switch is GM part number 25606315. I know this because the switch for my '98's window is sticking (both up or down), causing the window motor's switch to work intermittently. Paging my warranty company...

--Robert

slinkydink · April 2003

Hey guys, first time here. I've owned my 95 Aurora for 18 months and its been awful for the repairs (new transmission, new AC, NEW MOTOR, etc, etc, etc)
I've spent $6K worth of repairs on my $6.5K card >:(

Anyways, I want to replace the struts and shocks, but not to my surprise the rear load leveling compressor is shot and I dont want to replace it (way to expensive).

Everyone here is saying good things about KYB struts, but what shocks on the rear would work ok with KYB's up front? Although I'll also be happy with Monroe's all around if I have to.

I've never installed struts before, I imagine its required to use a spring compressor (which I dont have), so I suppose I'll order the struts online then have a local shop install them.

Should the strut support pad be replaced aswell? The Aurora (Or as me and my GF call, joke and call it, "The OldMan", hahaha) has 116K miles on it (70K on the new motor)

Any suggestions would be great, I only wish I had found out about this site sooner!
Thanks!

garnes · April 2003

6k - yikes. I like RSM, but an intake and exhaust = 280 HP?

rjs200240 · April 2003

I think much of the 280hp comes from the "SS" badge and the spoiler.

Henry · April 2003

SPOILER.

u g l y

stickking1 · April 2003

I really like some of the add-ons that RSM has, and I'd go with them just from the reviews you guys have given here on the site...but they really need to update their pictures of the products for the Aurora. Some of them look like they were taken with an instant camera in someone's driveway...very bush-league. And I agree, the spoiler on the SS should go. Does anyone know the details on the exhaust they offer? It says "$899 installed". Do they have an RSM system that they have developed, or are they just reselling one?

hammen2 · April 2003

Got an insider deal on the Delphi Sky-Fi satellite radio (see http://www.xmradio.com/skyfi/ for more info) with car kit. Also purchased the boom box so I can listen at work as well. I really, really enjoy it, and don't mind paying the $10/mo. to not listen to FM radio ever again. My AM radio doesn't work very well due to engine interference (works fine with the car off).

I did not mount the antenna on the top of the car, like you're supposed to, but up on the dash on the A-pillar on the passenger side. I still get 3 bars of signal. Only time I have problems/issues is *sometimes* going under an underpass.

I'm using the car kit w/cassette adapter (never listen to cassettes any more, with the 12-disc in the trunk and the single disc in the dash). I have to figure out how to try to mount the cradle up on the dash sweep near the DIC - the third-party brackets I've seen (which hang off the right of the radio) would cause the radio to hit my wife's knees, so I've got to move it up higher :-(

One question (and I apologize in advance, I haven't looked in my owner's manual); I know the car has retained accessory power for the radio, windows/sunroof/etc., but the minute I turn off the car, power is cut to either cigarette-socket outlet (thus shutting my Sky-Fi off). Is it supposed to do this/does it work this way on everyone else's Classic (I've got a '98)? I'd appreciate a response.

Thanks, and go check out XM Radio,

--Robert
(not employed by XM, just deeply happy I can finally listen to music in my office at work - can't get FM through the thick concrete walls, but can get satellite. Go figure!)

stickking1 · April 2003

Hey hammen2...you're right about the XM...great stuff. I can't imagine not having it anymore. I have the FM modulated unit from Pioneer and I have the antenna placed on the rear deck under the window. Didn't want to go through the hassle of mounting it outside the car. Works great though...I only lose the signal in a tunnel or a big overpass.
With the XM, I don't ever listen to FM anymore, so I decided to install a rocker switch to disable my power antenna. IMO, the mast kills the look of the car from behind and besides, mine always freezes up in the winter. I'll have to dig up the pictures I have of the project, the switch is actually located next to my ashtray. That way I can flip up that little door in front of the shifter in my classic and switch the antenna on or off, then close the door to hide the switch. I got the idea from a guy on the boards here, but it's worked out nice for me too.
I couldn't tell you about the power loss to the cigarette lighters..mine is wired right in to the radio, but I thought I'd share my XM story.

Henry · April 2003

The aux power goes off when the car is turned off. The cigerette lighter is on all the time.

aurora5000 · April 2003

My '02 is aux off when key is off, cig. off after a 10 minute cycle ...

Steve

mike98c · April 2003

Ditto 10min. lighter off.

Henry · April 2003

Olds must have changed the lighter setting in the 98. I know my 95's stays on because I left my cell phone hooked up overnight and the charge light was till on in the morning. And no, the battery was not dead.

seth042280 · May 2003

what throttle enhancer did taylor use? i know what it is but I need to know which one he got

seth042280 · May 2003

what do you think about this . remember where we took out the air reservoir out of the bottom of the stock air box? well what if we ran a hose from the front to fit right there but had some way to disconnect if it rained or any other water hazard ? what do you think . I dont exactly know where the scoop would go but maybe on the bottom engine bay flap ? let me know

rjs200240 · May 2003

My wife and I were out for a drive the other day, windows down, soaking in the fresh air and sun. She mentioned how nice my car sounds, and how it sounds like it is purring. I thought that was a nice description of the engine. Now it's got me thinking I should get some sort of custom plate along the lines of "SWEET V8" or "V8 PURR" or something, I don't know.

My Corsa system has always sagged a bit where the resonator hits the catalyst. I thought the spacer I recently installed would fix that as there would be more overlap of the two pieces, but it has not. My father and I are going to take a weekend trip to Cedar Point, Ohio to sample some of the best coasters in the world. I am going to stop by Corsa while there and see if they can't weld it up a bit. Jim Browning Jr. was quite friendly and helpful when I corresponded with him about stopping by. I am looking forward to seeing the plant there and how they make those awesome pipes.

blk97aurora · May 2003

seth042280:
Is your Aurora classic or 2nd gen? I don't remember how long you've been on the board, so please pardon duplications I may write here.

Garnes and I made the same airbox mods about the same time. I installed a remote thermometer in the air box of my '97 to measure the inlet air temperature. When driving at normal highway speeds, the temp is 2 to 3 degrees F higher than the dashboard temperature display. Stop or get slowed down to a crawl by traffic, and the inlet air temp rises quickly to much higher than ambient. On a hot day I have seen my remote thermometer hit its maximum, which is about 160 degrees. Because hotter air is less dense, we lose about 1% power for each 10 degree F increase in temp.

I like your idea of ducting outside air to the airbox. I have not figured out a good solution for the classics yet. A scoop below the existing front end will restrict ground clearance unacceptably. Hood scoops are out -- at least for me. Tomorrow I hope to have the time to remove my Aurora's driver-side fog light. I think there may be a path through the fog-light opening to the airbox area. What I have in mind is flexible tubing or hose to route air from the opening to the space under the air box. Since the last part of the hose will by oriented vertically, I think water ingestion will not be a problem. I plan to experiment with making both a tight and a loose (leaky) connection between the hose and airbox. For me, cool/cold air is the objective as opposed to any kind of a ram effect. I don't like the idea of losing my left fog light, but if that will get me substantially cooler intake air, I'm willing to make the sacrifice.

mike98c · May 2003

Is your airbox sealed (foam in my case) to the openings in the fender and below?

seth042280 · May 2003

I have been on the board for a little over a year now . I just took a break and started working on my other car . a rice racer. anyways . yes about the vertical drop from the bottom of the box . I still would like to try and figure some kind of quick disconnect for the ram air tube . if you placed a scoop on the bottom not directly flush with the bumper . you could still pull into parking spaces the same way ..the clearance is not an issue. you might lose 2inches if you can find the right scoop. our cars sit pretty high up so I am not worried about speed bumps I think I will do it this weekend if it doesnt rain. I will let you know how it turns out . once again I will be the lab rat

garnes · May 2003

I don't know if running a hose through the bottom opening would help much. I think you will pull the same amount of fresh air behind the fender with the standard box by just removing the plastic insert.

One thing to consider with any cold air set-up is that I would not be to happy with something that required a lot of tubing with several bends and perhaps a small diameter in some places to squeeze through a small opening. Such a solution may end up restricting flow at the higher rpm's.

garnes · May 2003

With the air box mod, do you have higher air temps at a light than with the regular set-up? Have you ever compared the two?

blk97aurora · May 2003

mike98c: Yes, my '97's airbox is sealed to the panel it's mounted on.

garnes: I added the remote thermometer after modifying the airbox and haven't undone the mod to check.

My idea about accessing fresh air through the driver-side fog-light opening will not work without cutting the panel behind the fog light -- which is something I do not want to do. Yesterday I finally got my Classic on ramps so I could get under the front end. Removed the air baffle to gain access to the rear of the fog light. I found several interesting things. There was much oil seepage on the right side -- not enough to account for my one-quart-in-1200-miles problem. Looks like it may be coming from the oil lines to the cooler in the radiator. It didn't look like it was coming from the threaded connections, but from the areas where the rubber lines were crimped (or whatever) to the metal fittings.

When washing my Classic, I was always surprised by how loose the front fenders were just in front of the wheel openings. I found that the brackets on both sides were not connected to the fenders. Furthermore, the inner fender liners were missing some of those plastic fasteners. It was obvious that sometime before I owned the car, someone had not reassembled the parts completely.

garnes: I disagree with you on a point you made yesterday, "I don't know if running a hose through the bottom opening would help much. I think you will pull the same amount of fresh air behind the fender with the standard box by just removing the plastic insert." The reason I disagree is that there is no specific opening for air intake into the space around the airbox. That space is bounded on the top and outside by the fender; on the rear and bottom by the fender inner plastic liner, and on the inside by another panel. Looks to me like all the air accessible by the airbox gets there by "infiltration" through the loose openings between the surfaces I mentioned above. I think this is why I observe the high intake air temps at stop and low speeds -- most of the intake air comes in from the area of engine and radiator.

Therefore, I believe opening up a direct path to fresh air will result in lower intake air temps. I agree with you about not wanting restrictions and small openings. Maybe the best way to describe the solution I am trying to describe/achieve is to open up an alternative air path without taking away any that already exist.

garnes · May 2003

I'm not sure I/we understand each other.

With the air box mod, air comes from under the box (air behind the fender) and through the original side opening (same air behind the fender). I think you may be referring to that side opening but I'm not sure. With the box mod, I do lose that little bit of "horn" that extended about an inch toward that side opening. But the opening in the box (without horn) is still no more than 2 inches away from the opening in the side of the inner fender.

I've looked at it and gave it some thought in the past and I just don't think much air (if any) would snake its way from the engine and around the box to enter the original side opening. The path of least resistance is directly across from the box about 2 inches away - big opening in that inner fender. The stock horn thing did not fit up against it either.

Plus a lot of air will be coming from the bottom so the amount pulled from the side is probably decreased by 1/2 or more.

Anyway, that's the way I see it. I could be wrong, but I really think any air supplied from the side will just come across as it did before.

seth042280 · May 2003

let me put you both at ease .
I did the ram air mod this weekend . I took out the left fog light and routed a flexible radiator hose from there to the stock air box .
I will put it this way you can have both .ram air and you can still have it sucking from normal place.use a y shaped couper at the bottom of the airbox . one side uses the hose and the other the regular air . I say this because just routing the hose to the airbox is not enought air for the engine to start (I found this out)ram air is not getting air until your car is moving. the best way to do this is to lose both fog lights . use mesh in the place where they were to keep trash out.you would route the two hoses to a coupler and then send it to the y coupler at the airbox. If you did this right I think that it could be benificial but it would take time and alot of head sctratching so I honestly do not know if it worth it.

Oldsmobile Aurora: Modifications

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