Oldsmobile Aurora Maintenance & Repair

izzyinstl

check and clean your EGR I had the same problem. would just die ..the EGR valve was frozen from carbon build up after cleaning, it never has done it again. I have had to clean another time as the check engine light came on and went off again after cleaning.

hammen2

The official GM flush and fill has them putting sealant tabs (actually, crushed walnut shells - I believe the tabs are similar to Bars Leak products) in the radiator. I don't have a TSB number or anything - may be best to post this in the general Repair and Maintenance section, and ask alcan or 0patience about it...

--Robert

dred98

My 1998 service manual - section 6-398 says that "this engine uses Dex Cool and GM coolant supplement (sealant) P/N 3634621 specifically designed for aluminum engines. Failure to use the engine coolant supplement (sealant) and the approved coolant antifreeze could result in major damage." Then it goes on to say that 3 pellets should be added to the lower radiator hose.

Henry

I have been told by more than one tech that you should not use Dex Cool because of the sludge build-up it causes. They have all said that it is better to use the "green stuff". Some law firm actualy has a site up about dex coll litigation.

When I changed my radiator the mechanic put in the green stuff and the pellets. I have not had a problem with the car in the way of over heating or damage to the NorthStar.

By the way, 99,153 miles. I am wondering where I will be when I finally roll it over.

Henri

blk97aurora

Greg,

You have received a few responses to your post; I'll add my $0.02 (where did that come from?). The GM line is that sludging has been caused by excess air in the cooling system, especially with the 4.3 V6 engine. Therefore, if you use the orange or pink stuff, keep the system full. There have been some claims that GM stopped recommending the crushed walnut shells -- not true for our aluminum Northstars. The tabs are cheap, even from a dealer -- about $3 for six. The additive package in the coolant is claimed to have properties to reduce cavitation in the water pump and to increase water pump seal life.

My '97 with 115,000 miles is eight years old this month. Three years ago I drained and flushed the cooling system and refilled with 55% Havoline Dexcool and 45% distilled water. Flushing it completely was such a pain that I have taken a different approach which I think will accomplish the same goal -- each year I drain one gallon and replace with the same 55/45 mixture. I also remove and rinse out the surge tank at the same time.

Karen_S

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rjs200240

I'd still use the Dex-Cool, but change it more often. And Greg, I do believe the sealant tabs are required for the classic. I think with the redesign they became an optional addition to be used if there are symtoms of coolant leakage. But they don't seem like they could do any real damage if you added them and they aren't needed. Coolant doesn't lube anything (well, the water pump), so having some fibers in there to stick in small openings shouldn't really hurt.

maytag87

Good evening folks,

First off, thanks pmontgomery for the info on where the water pump belt is. I assume when you say its on the opposite end of the motor, you mean the driver side of the block? Hmm, that cant be, can it? Maybe you mean the top part of the passenger side of the block. I'll look near the valve covers on both sides and see what I can see.

Secondly, new problem - I noticed tonight that my lights are flashing on and off, so I got the standard multifunction lever problem. My friend Joe, who owned this 96 Aurora before me, had the dealer fix it for big $$$ like 70K ago (current milage 140K), so I guess a replacement wand is subject to the same issue the original is. Cannot get contact cleaner until tomorrow, so I disconnected the battery to keep it from going dead. I have only seen one other person have this issue in Sept, as it appears this issue occurs with high heat and humidity. Currently its drizzly and 60 outside.

The Aurora has to take my wife to Boston reliably on Saturday so I am hoping that tomorrow the contact cleaner will fix this. I plan to reconnect the battery, pull back the rubber boot on the multifunction lever, look for the brass contacts and spray away while rotating the switch. Any other places that I should spray that could be affecting this problem?

Thanks!
Maytag

hammen2

Mine died in September of '02, fixed under my extended warranty (about $500). Killed my battery, too. Thankfully it was the day before I went on vacation - 24 hours later and it would have been on the way to the airport :-(

Google for "Aurora multifunction switch" and this will take you to another web site that has automotive forums (hint hint) which I can't directly post the link. There are detailed instructions there. Or, email me for them. You will probably want to do more than just shoot contact cleaner in there.

--Robert
still without his GTO

march94aurora

Instructions from that other site with the forums:

You will need to gain access to the rotating contact part of the switch that is hidden under the steering wheel covers but you will not have to remove the switch in order to clean it. You will need to buy a can of electrical contact cleaner and a can of compressed air like you use for keyboards. Both can be had at Radio Shack and both come with the red extension tube that fits the spray nozzle. First move the seat all the way back, then disconnect the battery, remove the sound deadeners, remove the two 10mm bolts at bottom of knee bolster, use your fingertips to pry the sentinel/dimmer assembly and trunk/fuel door release assembly from dash (leave harnesses connected and let dangle) to expose the remaining two 10mm bolts securing knee bolster, remove knee bolster, remove 10 amp fuse for Air Bag, disconnect SIR (air bag) yellow connector at lower left corner behind ins panel, tilt wheel up, use 3/16 or 5mm nutdriver to remove 3 screws securing steering wheel top cover (note that 1 screw is accessed thru the opening for the tilt lever while the other 2 are located on either side of the column closest to the lense/guages), remove 3 more of the same small tapping screws securing the lower steering wheel cover to column, remove black ring of text around ignition lock by pulling straight out, upper and lower covers can now be unsnapped and removed. With your left ear against the mirror control looking just forward of where the stalk goes to the column, you will see 5 tiny holes in a semi-circular pattern. When turning the headlamp switch you can see the contacts moving from hole to hole. Spray contact cleaner in the holes and immediately follow up with the compressed air can to flush out the contact cleaner. Move the headlamp switch rapidly thru all the detents and repeat several times with the contact cleaner followed by several bursts of compressed air to flush out the excess cleaner and dry. When finished, wait 30 minutes to make sure contacts are thoroughly dry then reconnect battery and test. Hopefully all is well and like me you just saved some major $

Paul (aka thumpin455)

march94aurora

More details on the post from that other site:

I would like too clarify a few things. The semi-circular hole pattern is about the diameter of a nickle. There will be five tiny holes at the 12:00, 2:00, 4:00, 5:00, and 6:00 o'clock positions. Use the Radio Shack #64-4315 Contact/Control Cleaner Lubricant and the Radio Shack #64-4351 Velocity Dust Remover Spray as your compressed air follow up. Both of these have the little red straw nozzle allowing you to spray directly into the 5 tiny holes on the switch at point blank range. Use towels and be very liberal with both. Spray cleaner into each hole several times while working the switch. Spray the compressed air into each hole while working the switch. Repeat 10 or 12 times and that should do it.

Paul

maytag87

Paul,

Thanks much for the additional info. I did a google search and did find another forum but the info was not detailed and did not help, I dont think I found the "desired" site... I had gone to Radio Shack on Fri afternoon and got the contact cleaner. That evening, I pulled the rubber boot on the switch and started spraying where the switch inserts into the column. I waited a bit and reconnected the battery and the problem was still apparent. I sprayed some more, but to no avail. My wife had to take my 87 442 into Boston in the rain on Saturday, I was really sad about that... But with the detail provided, I am hoping the Aurora will again be returned to service.

Thanks!
Maytag

march94aurora

Maytag, I can pretty much guarantee that if you follow these instructions exactly as written then your flashing lights problem will be cured. I have had several email me with absolute positive results; However, a couple of people seemed to think their small tapping screws that hold together the upper & lower steering column covers (clamshells) were stripped and gave up. Turned out that neither were using the specified 3/16" or 5mm nutdriver which is of a single peice integral construction. Instead they were using 3/16" or 5mm sockets on a 1/4" drive handle. Even 12 point thin-wall sockets do not have adequate clearance vs. a nutdriver in a couple of the access holes to the clamshell halves.

My 84 H/O was a daily driver rain or shine until it got stolen in the summer of 89. If I had it today it would have since earned a spot in the garage and my poor old roara would be out in the rain.

Paul

sephroth

1997 Oldsmobile Aurora 91,000

Currently my vehicle is hesitating. At idle there is a slight knock/shutter every few seconds sometimes not even noticeable. When accelerating you can feel the lack of power but the engine runs smooth however when the vehicle gets into fourth gear and low 1500 rpms the hesitation is much more pronounced. At higher rpms and highway speeds the engine is smooth however still with the lack of power. I have changed all the plugs/wires/coils/control module with AC/Delco OEM parts. Plus have installed a new PVC valve and fuel filter. After I did the above the car ran fine for a few weeks then the same problem occurred again. I had AutoZone run the codes which came back O2 sensor high voltage and cylinder 7 misfire. I changed the # 7 spark plug again with AC/Delco platinum for another $6. Car ran fine for a few days then the same problem. Same cylinder # 7 misfire although I pulled the plug out it looks fine however there is oil on the threads and on the tip of the plug. Is this normal? So before I change my third # 7 plug what else could be my problem? I would hate to have to bring in the car to the dealer since I have not had to yet except for the recall. Any advise would be greatly appreciated! Thanks in advanced.

95mushroom

It might be the O2 sensors as you mentioned. It seems weird, but I've heard good results. I plan to include them in my projects as soon I can fit it between college and hurricanes (Jeanne is on us as I type).

vlenox

As for switches to control your heated seats, try looking at the controls on each front door just forward of your shoulder. You will see a light on when the seat heater is on and it won't take long to heat the seat of your pants and your back.

Try searching eBay "1997 Aurora Service Manuals" include the year of your car and don't buy the wrong year. I found a three book set for our '97 "G" Body (Aurora and Rivera) for $69. and an Aurora owners manual for $15. Start with the owner's manual. You will learn more about your car in that small book that fits in the glove compartment.

vlenox

Our '97 Aurora runs great and gets 18mpg in town and 26 Hwy. but, on several occasions it develops a serious run problem (only after restarting a warm engine). It drives great for 5 miles or 25 miles but when we stop for ten minutes at the store or a few minutes for any reason, it may start OK and then die when you put it in gear. If it keeps running it will not develop enough power to drive even three miles per hour. If you let it stand over night or for any multi hour shutdown it has never failed to start and run like a new car. It has had a new fuel filter, new AC Delco platinum plugs and the factory recall for the "fuel rail" replacement to stainless tubing. All codes have been cleared and none have returned. On first startup it has never failed to start or run great for hours. On two occasions I have gotten the problem to correct itself after shutting down and restarting multiple times. It is only a problem on SOME WARM STARTS. Maybe one in twenty warm starts has a problem. It can set in the hot Arizona sun for hours and always starts fine. The problem has only happened six or seven times in three months. We use only Top Tier Premium Detergent Gasoline (Chevron Premium) and Castrol GTX 10W-30W oil. The dealer told me I had a fouled injector that was fooling the computer. If that were the case, why does it always run great after setting for a few hours? One time it was only able to run two or three miles per hour. I stopped and turned off the engine and restarted several times then suddenly it started and ran like a new car. Once it started and ran poorly even up to 60 MPH down the freeway. We drove home 15 miles with it still acting like it was taking its last breath. The next morning it started and ran like a new car. It will run great for weeks and then suddenly it has this problem on a warm startup. Can any one help solve this problem? The Aurora is beautiful and enjoyable to drive but, I won’t have a car if it can’t be ready to go when I need it.
I have owned two 4cyl. SAAB 9000s over the past 18 years and only once in 250K miles was the old ’87 out of service when I needed it (idler pulley bearing failed). My ’93 has never had anything worse than a battery problem in 100K miles and it is still running like new. I sure hope GM “limits its improvements” on the SAAB. If I don’t find a resolution for my Aurora’s warm starting problem soon, I will find myself a nice clean ’97 SAAB 9000 AERO hatchback, a real SUV not a gas guzzling tank. I will settle for an American Classic Oldsmobile from the '50s for my toy.

garnes1

I seem to remember intermittent starting problems like you describe related to the fuel pressure regulator (FPR). It is supposed to be a relatively inexpensive fix that you can do yourself.

I think it's right under the plastic engine cover.

I hope some others can confirm this or offer something else.

95mushroom

The FPR problems were when the car didn't want to start. The engine just turned over for 5-10 seconds. It sounds like vlenox's car starts fine just runs terrible. I thought it was an ignition prob. but sounds too random (though I'd check it anyway). Though, if you left an Aurora with a bad FPR for a couple hours, it started/ran fine (just like vlenox said). I'd replace it anyway as a "preventive maintance" step for a 8 year old car.

autobahn95

Yesterday was my very first trip to the shop for my Aurora (in the 4 years I've owned it anyway). I took it in for the fuel line recall. They were kind enough to throw in a new fuel filter since they replaced all the chassis lines. I also got a brand new fuel pressure regulator since I had replaced mine with an aftermarket one that didn't match up correctly to the new lines for some reason. They did an awesome job, the new stainless steel lines look great. The total cost out of my pocket was 0$.

Overall it was a very pleasant experience. I just hope I never have to go back!

2k1olds

I am now the proud owner of 2 Aurora's, a 2001 (which I've had) and a 1997. My wife thought I was a little obssesive about the 01, but now that it is hers, I caught her in the driveway the other night cleaning off bird crap, which she just used to let accumulate on her Venture van.
Anyway, I've had this 97 for 8 days now. When I first filled up with premium at Speedway/Marathon
it set off the SES and the code was water in fuel. Bought a can of dry gas, light went out. Filled up again yesterday and the light came on again. Does anyone living in the Ohio/Kentucky/Indiana/West Virginia area know of a good fuel for these cars. My choices in Cincinnati are Shell, BP, Speedway (this is the one causing problems), Thornton's, and that's about it. Sorry for the lengthy message but if anyone can help, please let me know.

huskerfan_21

I'm not in the area, but I think Shell V-Power is regarded as the best there is. I use it during the summer.

Greg

'96 Aurora

95mushroom

Sat. I went to the Cadillac dealer for the recall. I'm living at UCF and the recall notice went to my mom who lost the paperwork. Anyway we went to the Dealer who didnt know if they had the part. So I left the rora there for the day and they said they would call if they could/couldn't get the parts, so I could return home Mon. (the Cadillac dealer was at my home town).

First, whatever the pipe in the front is, the one that goes from the intake elbow to next to the oil cap, I think front PCV?, they had a rubber piece clamped over it, like it was in two piece. The guy said "That's the way we got them from Oldsmobile. I know, I picked them up myself." When I got home, I pulled the hose and it was definetly broken. Just want to make sure you guys didn't get a new piece with your recalls.

My other concern, is that he told me that, its just an inspection of the fuel rails and a replace of the lines. I can tell there's new connections by the brake booster. I have to go make sure I got the complete set of lines and check they didn't con me there either.

It just sounds like you guys got new stainless steel fuel rails. Did the service guy say anything that sounded like this? Does that mean, your rails were in bad shape and mine are good?

I just really feel like I got the fork up my rear end.

2k1olds

I just took my 97 in last week, didn't even have the recall notice. I just purchased the car and took it in for a road force balance and asked him to run a vehicle service history on it. The recall showed up and they replaced the fuel rails with stainless steel. I would take it back and tell him to do it right. By the way, the dealer I bought this car from said he machined the rotors and replaced the brake pads about a month before I bought it. These front brakes squeal like a stuck pig at slow speeds. I am goint to have it checked out, but could this be a. a rotor problem, or b. just some cheap as# pads they put on? Any known brake problems with 97's??

blk97aurora

Shawn,

I know there are differences between '95s and later Classics, so my experince with my '97 may not apply. That pipe is PCV; the dealer did not change mine for the recall. Aside from the recall, I have had a problem with that pipe because it is too short. I had to add a hose clamp on the driver side to keep the pipe from pulling out of the rubber grommets.

The new stainless steel fuel rail cannot be missed. I find it hard to believe that an inspection would indicate no need to replace the original fuel rail nylon pipes. I believe the '95s also get new fuel lines back to the tank. That is not the case for later years. I have been curious why not.

Hope this helps.

Les

watersurgeon

There suppose to replace the entire fuel rail. Its stainless steel.

I would go back and tell them that if they don't repair it I your going to call of the U.S. Department of Highway Safety, (the ones that issued the recall) and have a little conversation with them.

watersurgeon

Sold my 96' Aurora a couple weeks ago to some guy in LA and he calls me up tonight complaining that the dash instruments no longer work, (dash lights work fine) the Climate control no longer goes on, and the DIS no longer goes on.

He's not mechanically incline and the car is too far away for me to trouble shoot it. (Frankly it was sold as is) but I am a good guy and I want to help him out. Any Ideas what would cause this electrical issue? Any relays or fuses I should have him look at? I was thinking maybe they tried to jump start someone and shorted out the electrical on the body? Anyone seen or heard of this before.

Henry

Is this the problem where the dash does not "boot up"when you start the car? I had this problem, but it fixed itself. I believe other fokks who had it happen to them said it was the ignition switch not making all of the contacts. You might want to search for "dashboard" and see what was said.

Henri

edge

Hello, I have a '95 Aurora. I got the starter replaced recently, but I notice there is something wrong with the ignition. When the key is turned to where the instrument panel/computer/radio comes on, the car then starts. And when I turn it once more, the starter just cranks, and I have to slightly pull the key towards me to keep the engine running.

I also was driving down the highway the other day, and my doors unlocked, computer went off, and the engine shut off while I was driving! Yikes! My radio stayed on though which was weird. It does this here and there, but the ignition problem stays the same.

What are the problems, and what can I do about these problems, and how much does it cost to repair? Thanx!

Henry

Is this the problem where the dash does not "boot up"when you start the car? I had this problem, but it fixed itself. I believe other fokks who had it happen to them said it was the ignition switch not making all of the contacts. You might want to search for "dashboard" and see what was said.

Henri

1995oldsaurora

well i am no expert but some things i can tell you for a fact.if you car is running 200 degrees on the highway that is perfect..in slow traffic or when ideling the low speed fans should kick on at 223 degrees and off at 216 degrees..the high speed fans shoukd kick on at 230 degrees and off at 221 degrees..the first thing you have to do is compare the temperature gauge to when the fans are turning on..if the gauge gets hotter then 223 and the fans are not turning there is a problem..

1995oldsaurora

helo everyone,,need your help..my cooling fans will not turn on unless the a/c is on..as soon as the a/c is turned off the cooling fans turn off regardless of the temperature..i decided to have the vehicle (95 aurora) scanned at a local garage..after $150.00 and 3 new fan relays,fans still are not kicking on..any ideas ?????

dr_turbo

I read that this is most likely caused by the shift solenoids not working and going into limp mode. Is there a sure fire way to test this or definately diagnose this to be the problem?
The car has 129,000 miles but otherwise runs fine.
Are these located inside the trans pan? Are they easy to replace?
Please advise any thoughts as I am debating on whether to buy this car as is.

paul

2k1olds

I had the hood up last night and had just replaced the pcv. I started racing the car with the hood still open and everytime I depressed the accelerator, I heard this short burst of air. It almost sounded like an air hose you inflate tires with. Does anyone else's car do this?

dr_turbo

So what was the outcome of the transmission solenoids? I think I may have the same problem on my 1996.
I posted a question on this yesterday but no replies as yet.
How do I check to be sure and if it is solenoids how are they replaced? Thanks

maytag87

Paul,

Just wanted to say thanks, as a few weeks ago I was able to get things all apart with the great instructions and clean up the switch contacts. The problem was resolved and has not come back. Now just to get to that water pump belt!

My 84 HO was stolen in '99 out of the interior shop that was doing the headliner. I got paid back by the insurance company, so I picked up an 83HO. Fun fun fun!
 
Thanks for the help!
Rob

hammen2

I have a '98 so I have not experienced this problem, which can affect all '95's and most '96's. It "sounds" like this is your problem, but one can't be 100% certain (i.e. if the car doesn't shift beyond 2nd, it's more likely than not to be the solenoids).

I have seen how-to descriptions posted... not sure if on this site or another site with automotive forums (hint hint). In any case, Google is your friend... might search on "Olds Aurora" or "Oldsmobile Aurora" and transmission shift solenoid.

Hope this helps,

--Robert

2k1olds

Who do you have your warranty through, and are you satisfied with it? I'm looking for one for my 97 with 75,000 on it. Please let me know.

John

northstar98

My has a problem starting after sitting for about a hour or long really it happens on and off I would have to hold the key start it a little longer than norma.l for it to turn over I had it checked No battery trouble fuel filter,starter autenator problem changed to many types of gas just dont know was is making the car not turn over as quick as it suppose to ANY SUGGESTIONS.

hammen2

I'm not Javi but I haven't seen him post here for awhile. I believe that he has a GM Major Guard warranty (seem to recall this from the past).

My warranty is through 1Source and they've been OK - paid out about 3x the cost of my warranty. They only were a litle difficult when I needed the "Northstar rear engine block seals" job, which was $1800 - sent out an inspector, had to send them a bunch of oil change receipts, took awhile to approve the repair, and paid out about $1300 of the total cost. They did stand behind the warranty and pay for most of the repair.

--Robert

hammen2

If the car turns over but doesn't start right away, I'd lay money down that you need a new Fuel Pressure regulator. Part should be $40-$50 from your GM dealer and is a pretty easy DIY job...

--Robert

2k1olds

Do you have any info on Warranty Wizard? I can get 3/36000 coverage(which covers just about everything) for 1199.00 with a $50 deductible. They are also offering me two airline tickets, which kind of bothers me, don't know why. Warranty Wizard.com is their website if you'd like to check them out.

John

dr_turbo

Robert or anyone else, can you be more specific on the sights to get answers?
I know there have been many people who have gone thru this problem with solenoids so please hekp with what the replacement entails. This is prior to me just taking it to the dealer. Thanks!!

paul

hammen2

From a Cadillac-related forums website (another hint):

"Here is that part number and related info:

Bulletin No.: 77-71-73

A/T - Revised Serviceability of 1-2/2-3 Shift Solenoids

Date: January, 1998

INFORMATION

Subject:
Service Availability of 1-2 and 2-3 Shift Solenoids

Models:
1993 Cadillac Allante
1993-98 Cadillac Eldorado, Seville
1994-98 Cadillac Concours
1996-98 Cadillac DeVille
1997-98 Cadillac d'Elegance
1995-98 Oldsmobile Aurora
with HYDRA-MATIC 4T80-E Transaxle (RPO MH1) and with 4.0L, 4.6L Engine (VINs C, Y, 9 - RPOs L47, LD8, L37)

During the 1996 Model Year, transaxle Julian date 047, a new 1-2, 2-3 shift solenoid assembly, and a pressure control solenoid valve fluid filter retainer, were implemented on the 4T80-E transaxle.

All transaxles with a Julian date prior to 1996, 047 must be serviced with a service kit - 1-2/2-3 shift solenoid valves, which is available at GMSPO. This kit, P/N 24211355, contains the 1-2, 2-3 shift solenoid valves, the pressure control solenoid valve filter, the pressure control solenoid valve fluid filter retainer and the bolt to hold the retainer to the lower control valve body. All components in this kit must be used when servicing these transaxles.

1996 transaxles with a Julian date after 047, and 1997 through 1998 transaxles, should be serviced with individual components.

Here is the procedures I used.

a) the job is a mess, be prepared.
b) drop the pan, and careful removing the tranny gasket, it is re-usable. Once you clean the pan, you can reset it with gasket sealer.
c) disconnect the solenoid electrical connectors and the mechanical linkage. The linkage has a metal clip you lift and slide.
d) remove the valve body screws, and drop the valve body.
e) place the valve body where you can afford a mess, it will continually leak. Best thing is to set it on cardboard on a bench. There is a valve spool that can be removed as well, careful it can slip out, you don't want to damage it.
f) remove the two clips holding the solenoids, careful they are spring-loaded and will fly
g) remove the screws holding the "large" portion of the valve body split, this is where the solenoids are incased. Remember the screw locations, there are about four different screw lengths
h) CAREFULLY remove split, there are 4 steel check balls loose inside the split (about 1/4" diameter, they will fly, as well)
i) inspect spacer plate, if the black coating is not chipping off you can re-use it, otherwise plan on spending another $ 70 at the dealership parts house. If you replace it you will have to remove the "smaller" split, as well. It also has three check balls.
j) replace the solenoids
k) now comes the fun,....you will note three holes in the spacer plate where three of the check balls reside, seat them there (appr. 3/16" diameter with a smaller relief hole next to it, as I remember). The fourth check ball will need to be inserted in a spherically-cast cavity which is near one the solenoids. You can set it with grease, I re-assembled successfully without using grease.
l) re-assemble valve body, carefully and equally torque.
m) you will note a square black plastic item near one of the solenoids, on the end. Replace this plastic filter with the new filter in the solenoid kit. The kit will also come with an L-shaped bracket that is to be used to "capture" this filter and keep it from backing out. The kit also comes with a slightly longer screw used to mount the bracket to the valve body (discard the old screw).
m) re-assemble valve body to transmission, hook up linkage and electrical connectors
n) replace both tranny filters
o) replenish fluid
p) reset codes

While you have the trans pan off take the time when you are finished changing the solenoids to remove the "hidden" drain plug for the trans side cover. It is over towards the left side of the car/trans and within the area normally covered by the bottom pan. You will drain about 5 more quarts of old fluid out of the trans that is stored in the side cover for a more complete change of trans fluid while you are at it."

Again, these are not my instructions. I just Googled for "Oldsmobile Aurora" "shift solenoids" replacement and found this article on the first page of results.

Hope this helps,

--Robert

hammen2

I personally have no experience with Warranty Wizard (looked at 1Source, Warranty Gold (RIP), and WarrantyByNet three years ago when I was shopping for my '98), but the "airline tickets" thing makes me raise my eyebrows as well. There is an "Extended Warranty" thread going on over at the "Finance" board here on Edmunds. Most of the posters there will tell you not to buy a third-party extended warranty for your Aurora, and just sock away the cash - but you could still end up in the poorhouse (just remember Zincster's Aurora). I would still consider one of these for a Classic Aurora, just would try to find a reliable vendor (i.e. maybe one sold by your local AAA or a local auto dealer, where you might have some leverage if the warranty company backs out of their responsibility).

Hope this helps,

--Robert

dr_turbo

Robert, that allot for that reply. This has really helped me realize what is involved in this. Doesn't sound too bad. I have worked long hrs on my back before so I may tackle it, The dealer was saying they may have to remove the enire front subframe/crossmember and use special cradles for this.
Thanks again. I will do another search and see what more I can find but this description is really good.

paul

gisom

The shift solenoid is not too bad. Make sure you use the bracket that comes with the kit. That bracket MUST be used to hold the little filter in place, otherwise it will not shift to third gear. Job will take about 3 hrs, but you will save at least $300. Good luck and also be careful of those little ball bearings.

Greg

dr_turbo

Thanks to all that responded. Since I will have the car in the air, is there any other items that should be checked/replaced that have a potential for wearing out or going bad? ie. mounts or bushings or cables?
What other items are problem areas that are common to these? It will be a prime time to get any/all work done. Thank you.

paul

2k1olds

I just washed and polished the 97 yesterday. I've been using Meguairs wash and then cleaner wax. I bought some Meguairs Yellow Wax #26. Is this stuff supposed to be really grainy? I only did the roof and I had yellow balls of this stuff all over my windows and stuck in the window seals. Also, I replaced the air filter and the SES came on (again). First time it was water in fuel, according to Auto Zone.I had them pull the code yesterday and it showed intake air sensor. I had him reset the SES and now the SES came back on.
Intake air sensor seats just fine and wires are in good shape. Is this an expensive fix? And, exactly wha does this thing do?

Thanks,
John

javidogg

Hello there,

I have the GMPP Warranty, I don't have the other one (GM Major Guard) I don't know if there the same, but they should be, I have never had a problem with mine, I paid like a little over a grand for it and never had any problems with them covering stuff, and let me tell you I used my warranty for everything, from the sunroof, to the radio power antenna, door locks and handles, scratch inside of my passenger front window, to a blown AC motor, and other stuff, that GMPP Warranty is like the best thing, and I go get my Aurora serviced at a Cadillac dealer.

I would find some info on the GMPP Warranty just to compare.

Let me know, which one you go with.

Javs.