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Oldsmobile Aurora Maintenance & Repair

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    e_net_ridere_net_rider Member Posts: 1,380
    I'd definitely ask what brand the dealer is using. Other than that, your option.
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    ohheyitsjesseohheyitsjesse Member Posts: 12
    i also guess there's always the option to just buy a new car. i've put almost, if not more, than what I paid for the car in just fixing this problem...
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    auroraborealsauroraboreals Member Posts: 4
    Procedure documented really well with a procedure and photos at the website: http://65.39.242.200/~aghl/Aurora/index.html

    Your right, Q-tips are the way to go, but trying to blow debris around with air spray can might make it worse.
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    linkman1linkman1 Member Posts: 1
    I can absolutely endorse this fix. For the cost ($7.99) of a can of electrical contact cleaner from Ace Hardware, I have fixed the problem and saved $500. With a shop compressor and air spray nozzle, you wont need a can of compressed air. If you dont have a 3/16 driver, grinding down a 3/16, 1/4 drive socket will give you a tool that fits into the holes in the lower half of the plastic cover.
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    e_net_ridere_net_rider Member Posts: 1,380
    I'll second that. There are sockets that will fit without altering. You apparently had a thick walled one. I used an old can of contact cleaner meant for the day when tv tuners still had contacts.
    I suspect the cause may be white grease, lithium based, that with age its conductivity increases as the grease drys.
    That is what we used to lubricate the tuning strips in really old TVs. Each channel had its own tuning strip with about 10 contacts. Often silver or gold plated but they could fail that perfect contact. Washing with solvent and recoating with grease fixed most tuner issues.
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    tricoletricole Member Posts: 1
    My windshield wiper fluid drips out slowly when I try to wash the windshield of my 2001 Aurora...the pump works, the blades are fine, but I'm having trouble figuring out how to see if the lines are plugged & unclog them. Can I pull the hoses from the wiper assembly to clean them? Is there a good way to clean out the holes where the washer fluid shoots out of?

    Many thanks in advance for your time & advice!!!
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    starshine176starshine176 Member Posts: 1
    hi i just bought a used 95 aurora i was just wondering about the power button on gear shift, how does it work?? ive clicked it and cant tell any difference, i also have the surge problem ive seen several people talk about on here, we'll have to check out the fpr and see if that helps
    thanks
    mr
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    e_net_ridere_net_rider Member Posts: 1,380
    What power button?
    Are you thinking of the button that controls traction control?
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    pscheidpscheid Member Posts: 190
    edited October 2011
    STARSHINE......the button on the gearshift knob, or power button, changes the shift points on the transmission.

    In the off or normal position, the car should upshift sooner with a given amount of gas/accelerator. This is the better position for everyday driving and fuel economy

    In the power mode, the transmission, with the same amount of gas/accelerator pedal as you had in normal mode, should hold the gear longer. The result is that the engine will hit higher RPM before it shifts and put you closer to the peak horsepower and torque the engine has on tap.

    In the latter mode, the car should be a tad quicker in everyday driving, but the fuel mileage should be down a bit.

    Why not just skip the power mode and, in normal mode, let the driver just depress the accelerator pedal a bit more with the same "increased quickness" result? Beats me, other than the car is quicker without you having to depress the accelerator more or think about it.

    Think of this feature as a forerunner of adaptive transmissions, where the transmission automatically adjusts to a driver's driving style, aggressive versus conservative. The results are similar.

    The Aurora was ahead of it's time in many respects and sported some interesting features and accommodations only found in a few upscale brands.

    The 4.0L V8 "mini-Northstar" engine and its larger 4.6L Cadillac brothers were arguably the most advanced V8 engines ever to come out of Detroit. The Northstar was a Cadillac mainstay for about 15 years.

    Even the Corvette did not sport dual overhead camshafts and multiple valves per cylinder if my memory serves me correctly. At 250 horsepower and 260 lb. ft. of torque, the Aurora's Northstar version was a monster waiting to be released. But in GM's inimitable style, they left it pretty much unchanged and let another opportunity pass.

    Check out the three sun-sensitive sensors in the dash that automatically adjusted the interior HVAC system for temperature consistency and comfort. Or the dual/separate climate controls for the front passenger and driver. This was leading edge stuff back in 1993 when production started on the GenI Auroras. Standard powered (by pump) rear air shocks. The list goes on.

    In a good state of tune, the GenI Aurora loaded with passengers and luggage, could cruise at 70+ MPH on the highway and top 27 MPG while doing it in style.

    Jack
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    donnapacadonnapaca Member Posts: 26
    I looks like your question has been answered. I wanted to give you an alert-I also have a 95 and found that the main computer goes out more frequently that most other vehicles.
    The diagonistic's a lot of time will say your transmission has problem and needs work-this is totally wrong. I have gone throught this about 6 times in the 100,000 miles I have on it.
    The indications that the computer is going out is cruse controls stops working, more immediately indication is hard shifts from park to reverse-it bangs into reverse. The computer controls the shift and when computer starts failing it gives command to shift harder.
    When this happens I highly recommend you take to GMC dealer because sometimes you have problems with the new GMC rebuilds. One time they went through 4 rebuilds before they get one that works. Each time the diagnostic said bad transmission. If you research transmission issues you will find people had rebuilds only to find out it was the computer, not transmission. I talked to parts manager at local GMC (formally was olds dealer also and he said that pontiac also "ate" computers and had similar problems.
    Try to find a GMC dealer tha has an experienced tec on aurora's, as it can save you a bundle of money if you have a problem and have a bad diagonistic.
    When a GMC dealer does the work and their part is bad, they cover the labor and you only pay once. One time I had the computer go out as mention above it took a week to fix and they went through 4 rebuilds before they found one that works.
    I just went throught this again about two months ago, first they said transmission needed work. I told them to ignore the code and replace the computer. They did it it fixed the hard shift problem and I also got back me cruse control. If you have similar problems I can email you wrong codes the computer was sending.
    Don
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    mprocopiomprocopio Member Posts: 1
    I bought this aurora one month ago. It is a 3.5 and has only 36,000 miles. There is something going on with the electrical system. The key less door, trunk, and gas release don't work and sun roof and interior lights, also the buttons from the inside to open the trink and gas lid don't work. From going thru the car it is three differant relays and fuses and they are all working. Any ideas what to look for next.
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    westsidetoriwestsidetori Member Posts: 1
    The computer in my 1995 Aurora went bad. Got a new one. Now, do I need to get it flashed or reprogrammed? Because it does not work with the new computer installed. Please help!!!!
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    e_net_ridere_net_rider Member Posts: 1,380
    95 not OBDII.
    I had a 95 Regal which had a weird connector. Not OBDII or the connector that was common before it. I never did figure out what the situation was.
    If it is the system prior to OBDII, you had the computer and a chip inside that was preprogrammed to the model of the vehicle. The same computer would be used across several models and sometimes years. My daughter bought a Buick Skyhawk that had several functions not working. Cruise control, torque convertor lock, etc. It turned out the previous owner had a death on highway. Towed to the area dealership and they stole a computer out of a Corsair. Correct computer, wrong chip. I had it to some very good shops that all ended up scratching head. It cost me $30 for the correct chip.
    I think the current practice is that if you buy a computer, you are expected to remove the chip from the old computer. If you no longer have it because of core charge, you will have to buy a new chip. Go to the dealer with the VIN.
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    rosemarietrosemariet Member Posts: 1
    did you every find what was happening mine keeps blowning the fuse as soon as i start my car :mad:
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    florindaflorinda Member Posts: 1
    have an 02 aurora olds,and need a tune up bad, check engine light is on .
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    astro98astro98 Member Posts: 1
    My 97 aurora had the same problem of losing coolant. Mechanic found it was leaking out of the head gaskets externally. This has been a problem with this engine. GM came up with some special pellets that are put into the coolant. The cost was $30 for the pellets and after a couple hundred miles of driving the leak stopped. It has been 2 years now and everything is OK. It is not 100 % certain the pellets will stop the leak. If this did not work the mechanic had another possible solution. It involved some kind of micro (nano) pellets and draining the coolant system. I did not understand this solution, but it was over $100. The only other solution was to take off the heads and have them smoothed down and then replace the gaskets. Had to be done at a dealership and very expensive. Try the pellets.
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    pscheidpscheid Member Posts: 190
    Friend of mine works at a Caddy dealer and told me this is not an uncommon problem with the Northstar engines once they start pushing 120,000 miles, or with any engine with aluminum heads. The GenI 1997 Oldsmobile Aurora has what is loosely referred to by some as the mini-Northstar at 4.0 liters.

    My Aurora did not exhibit these symptoms at 114,000 when I traded it. The only coolant losses I experienced throughout ownership were due to a cracked overflow tank in a place where I could not see it. A failing water pump. And a small leak in the radiator neck by the top hose.

    How did your mechanic determine it was a head gasket leak (internal). From the exhaust? From the motor oil?

    PJ
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    mrkbker1mrkbker1 Member Posts: 4
    9 years later, how (some of us) learn...I installed platinum+4's in my 2001 aurora at 79,000 miles about 6 years ago, it now has 122,000-still runs like a new car, smooth, quiet, and gets close to 19 mpg in mostly city driving,
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    pscheidpscheid Member Posts: 190
    edited April 2012
    When in 2010 I (sadly) traded in my black/graphite 1998 GenI Autobahn at 114K miles, it was still on the original plugs, coils, exhaust, and suspension. While my rational brain was telling me to swap out the plugs at 100K miles as prescribed in the maintenance schedule, the car was running like new from start up right up to the red line, and the pure highway gas mileage on cruise was always 26-27mpg with about 19 mixed city/highway. At just shy of 4,000 pounds, the Aurora was no lightweight.

    It "wasn't broke" so I didn't "fix it." Trans was the same as the motor.....smooth and trouble free. What was I anticipating? Head gasket @ 120K at the advice of a friend who worked on Northstars at a Caddy dealer.

    During ownership, here is what I had done as routine maintenance: motor oil changes, one tranny flush/fluid replacement, two replacement sets of brakes, my second set of replacement tires, the belts and hoses of course, and a thermostat just in case.

    What else? Radiator. Water pump. Idler tensioner. Fuel pump and gas tank........neck on fuel tank was rusted off, I live in snow country where the roads are salted. Yet the sheet metal and paint held up nicely, just a quarter-sized bubbling over one of the rear fender wells.

    When the idler tensioner went bad at about 94K, I elected to have the a/c compressor replaced because, while it was running/cooling fine, there was slap in the bearings. "While the car was apart" decision where the labor costs were already spent.

    Why did I get rid of the Aurora? Grandchildren and dogs, needed more hauling capacity. Traded it for a low mileage CPO GenI AWD Cadillac SRX with the Northstar V8, third row seating, and almost every available option including NAV, DVD, Bose, surround, rear A/C, twing package, heated seats, and the largest sunroof ever put on a production vehicle!!!

    The 1998 Olds Aurora was the nicest, most satisfying car I have ever owned in my 45 years of driving. As a replacement vehicle, the SRX still doesn't float my boat quite like the Aurora did. But the practicalities of life intervened as well as the upcoming pipeline maintenace costs on the Aurora which were inevitable. Also, the 4.6L Northstar in the SRX cranks out 320hp and 315lb. ft. of torque. Coupled with the 6 speed trans, it is about 1 second quicker to 60mph than the Aurora. And the AWD provides peace of mind in the snow.

    PJ
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    iamwilley83iamwilley83 Member Posts: 2
    could be an exhaust backup. The cat could be backed up and or a tube that is going from the throttle body to your thermostat housing. The tube looks like a metal flex tube and is only held down by one bold on each end 13 mm in size. These cars are notorious for getting build up inside of these hoses.

    Good luck.
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    iamwilley83iamwilley83 Member Posts: 2
    when my car is running for the first 45 min or an hour the oil pressure at idle is from 10 to 19. When the car runs past that time it drops from 0 to 5 and the oil light comes on as well as the warning in the obd. The pressure stays at normal while the rpm is above 1200. another important note to put on here is that when I first start up at cruising speed the oil pressure goes to 75 psi then slowly goes down to 50 psi. Is this a oil pump problem or pressure relief valve or worn out bearings? I also have a 96 aurora that has 250,000 miles on it but doesn't have this problem at all. Any suggestions for the 97 would be appreciated.

    Thanks in advance :)
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    Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Well the oil pump does not directly control oil *pressure*, only flow. It's the clearances in your engine that determine oil pressure in most cases; HOWEVER, a pressure relief valve can also exhibit your symtoms--in your case, the condition would be a partly open/partly closed relief valve.

    Other possibilities, aside from worn bearings, might be a defective seal in the oil pump pickup tube (sort of an internal oil leak).

    your oil pressure specs are:

    Minimum Pressure at Normal Operating Temperature at Idle: 35 kPa (5 psi)
    Minimum Pressure at Normal Operating Temperature at 2000 RPM: 250 kPa (35 psi)
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    johnnieboyjohnnieboy Member Posts: 16
    My 1998 Aurora oil pressure varies greatly; 45 kPa at idle and 250 kPa at driving speeds - has been doing this at least since 75,000 Kms. I was worried but the GM dealers said it was not a problem. I now have over 200,000 Kms and no problem with the engine. In addition to the other suggestions, could this be false readings based upon some weakness in the sensing mechanism?
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    Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Sure, it's always a good alternative to plug in a manual (analog) gauge before one tears apart an engine.
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    brinwoodbrinwood Member Posts: 32
    my 97 with 150000 has 62 PSI at start up, 9 at hot idle.
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    donnapacadonnapaca Member Posts: 26
    My instrument cluster just stoped working and engine died. Engine restarted fine, but no instruments working. After about 5 minutes after being off, everything reset. This just happened for the second time. Did yours go out all at once or intermitant?
    Did you get new cluster from dealer?
    Thanks your your imput.
    Don
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    donnapacadonnapaca Member Posts: 26
    I just saw your post while researching my cluster stopping working. After turning it off for a few minutes it reset and worked. This happened twice within 30 minutes.
    How did you resolve your problem? ( I know it is an old post)
    I just checked with the local dealer and they said new not available, just send in for repair if it turns out that is needed.
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    dkarnesdkarnes Member Posts: 4
    My rear view mirror fell off today, it is fairly heavy with compass integrated. Looks like a thin stickrum layer held it to the mirror, Anyone know can you purchase that separately and it looks like there is a metal mount in the housing that may pop out to mount the mirror on, once it is glued to the window?

    I have another job to do on the car, replace the transmission filter , has anyone done that, looks like there are two separate filters.

    Also have the red indicator lite out on the transmission gear shift console. Is that a lite that is easy to get to??
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    Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    yeah, if the mirror fell off the glass itself, and the mount didn't break, you can buy a re-glue kit at autozone, Kragen, etc. The TRICK is to make sure your new gluing area is spotlessly clean. Follow directions carefully and it should be a successful repair. And that's right, you slide the mirror off the mount, and glue the mount on first.
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    dkarnesdkarnes Member Posts: 4
    Thanks ,I will work on getting the mount off, I picked up a repair kit, the original mirror mount had a small piece of pliable material between the mount and the glass, suspect I should re-glue it in?
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    dkarnesdkarnes Member Posts: 4
    Re-glued the button to the windshield, trick was getting the button off the mirror, take the housing apart so one can use pliers to squeeze clip together to slide button down and off.
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    Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    yes some car mirrors are tedious because of their design. So it works now?
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    dkarnesdkarnes Member Posts: 4
    Yes the mirror/w compass and housing clicked onto the button fine. I had bought a glue kit from OReilly's but when I found the mirroe/compass was fairly heavy, I went down to the Cadillac garage and got a kit that they use, a couple dollars more but I wanted to be sure it would work. They also did the initial "button" removal for me, which was not easy. A metal compression spring holds the "button with teats on the back) in place! So does did not slide out easily. Needed to use pliers to compress the spring metal etc. Thanks a Bunch!
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    brinwoodbrinwood Member Posts: 32
    The clicking could be from one or many injectors. they do click when functioning.
    (sorry I am 7 years late with an answer) !
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    mikehill1mikehill1 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2001 Aurora 4.0, installed Bosch Platinum +4's...6 years ago. Still runs like a new car (124,000 now, had 70,000 when installed). I plan on taking them out at 170,000 miles or more if it still runs like it does now-so much for internet myths. By the way, install those 'regular' plugs in your aluminum heads (more often) and tell me why it is a good thing.
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    01intrigue01intrigue Member Posts: 92
    I know its late, but I just saw this post. When I bought my 2003 Aurora 4.0 in July, it had similar condition. Replacing the master window switch in the drivers door cured my problems. (Dealer had diagnosed it; they sent me the part when they got it.) I cannot remember if the sunroof was bad, but I know the remote gas/truck lid would not work until I replaced the switch, which is easy to do. The power for those switches runs through that switch.
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    korcarikorcari Member Posts: 16
    Brody3

    I have an '99 Aurora and ran into the same problem. I cant open the passenger front door from inside or outside.

    What did you do to get your open?

    Thank you
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    brinwoodbrinwood Member Posts: 32
    my mechanic opened it with a slim jim opener.
    door needed a new mechanism.
    rust got it.
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    karanzale1karanzale1 Member Posts: 1
    you repair that and can also look to buy radar detector for vehicle under $500
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