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Comments
Thanks.
now the seat will go to that position when you have changed it and want to go back to the preset.
you can't do this when the car is being driven.
And don't forget to also set the driver's and passenger's mirrors before you hit the set button. They are controlled by the same memory.
Try the Maxifuse/Relay Center located under the hood. The inside of the cover has a chart that explains the features and controls governed by each fuse and relay. You probably have already discovered that there should be 3 main fuse panels; namely, (1) the instrument panel fuse block and (2&3) 2 (driver's side and passenger side) rear compartment fuse blocks. The "fuse block instrument panel" has fuses arranged in rows with 4 across and 7 down. Upper left hand corner = #1 fuse, uppper right hand corner = #4 fuse, etc.
Look at fuse #17 which is the 1st one in the 5th row from the top. This is the "Driver Instrument Center" one.
P.S. There should be a fuse puller clipped to the inside of teh cover to the fuse box unless it's been "misplaced".
Hope this helps.
Has anyone had this happen, and better yet found out what was wrong?
What is the part called and where is it located that controls the auto lamps. My lights were staying on so I pulled the fuses to turn them off. When I re-installed the fuses the problem was solved but I know it will happen again.
Thanks for any help.
Guess I'll have to go and tear it apart.
When I'm done I guess I'll owe Brin one of "his" favorite beverages!
Thanks.
If you read through the forum, I think there is info. It might be the two wires from the ignition to the box have a problem or the ignition switch not making good contact with the key. Some have put a resistor of the same value as the one on the key at the box location with success. This deletes the two wires from the ignition switch and your car will think the key is always in when it comes to security.
cheap way, but I wouldnt skimp on that engine block. the more stress you put on it the less you'll get out of it. Good luck. New radiator was around 150$ with fluid costs around 175 total. Take it to the dealer and they will charge you 600-700
for the job if not more.
If you want, I will look up what I paid to get this stuff done.
Assume you do a major flush to get gunk out of system. You may damage water pump and it be short lived. But you could save most of the fluid and only have to add a little with the swap. Buy quality new hoses, not the cheap ones, they won't last. While the radiator is in the shop, you can have them clean it. A flush just does not do the job of some of that gunk and won't remove corrosion layer from inside core. So you spend a little on that. Your radiator is still old, other tank is aged and core is likely getting weak. Maybe it lasts a year, but then you are back to buying a new one plus fluids and labor. Theirs or yours.
When mine let go, I nearly got stuck 40 miles from home in the middle of nowhere with the wife and two dogs in the car in the dead of the frigid New England Winter. My 1998 now has 110K miles and is my daily driver 24/7/365. I too initially hesitated at a new radiator because of the cost. But I don't do the work myself. And I planned on getting a few more years out of the car and didn't want to travel this road again.
For me, I was not comfortable pondering the average effective remaining life expectancy out of a repaired 10 year old radiator (at the time), even if it was boiled out and had been flushed 3 times previously with new/fresh coolant added.
So beyond the safety/peace of mind factor, the labor costs for both the short and long term became the deciding factor for me to simply replace the old one with a new one. Cheaper in my mind to do it once and get it over with.
Another thing in the back of my mind was reading all of the posts from "classic" 1995-1999 Aurora owners about cooling issues in the heat of the summer. There isn't a grill on the car for cooler air intake, away from the scorching pavement, and you can just watch that water teperature needle climb sitting in traffic!
1. Core deteriorates over time even with regular maintenance/fluid changes, etc.
2. Leak developed slowly but when the core gave way maximum travel distance before all coolant was gone was approximately 0.5 miile.
3. Have peace of mind with a new radiator; no worries when the weakest spot in the core will give way leaving me high and dry. With the heat buildup and 100+ temps Texas affords us, I just couldn't justify gambling on how much longer the original radiator would last.
Good luck.
Even on full defrost I cn feel cold air on the rt & hot on the Left.
Just seem like heatercore has Hot water flowing through it.
I chk 3 fuses. OK
The Driver Information Center (DIC) displays
information in either English or metric. When the
system is on or off, push the ON/OFF button down
for three seconds to change the display between English
and metric. This will also change the digital screen for
the climate control system between English and metric.
http://aurorah.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=Audio&action=display&thread=17780
asap
If you read through the forums, you will see that a lot of people have corrected problems that re-arose after a short time by replacing the aftermarket part with a GM OE, especially if computer related and that includes spark.
It is recommended that you change all of them at 100K. I made it to about 125K before the first one went and within a year two more failed. And the one after the converter is suspect for a problem although it does not show a code. If you are past 100K, do yourself a favor and change all 4 of them. You might want to put a small amount of anti-seize on the threads. There are two places talked about in the forum that discount parts. One, I think is GM Direct. I ordered from the other, cheaper and fast. GM Direct has a lot of caveats concerning order, read through that.
Call the dealer with your vin #, explain the issue, and to verify their recall repair protocol.
Anyone else have this particular problem?
Is there any other drainage tube that runs down the pillar between the doors on the drivers side???? How else could this amount of water get in???
Any help would be appreciated!!!!! Is there a WEB site where I can get an engineer's diagram of this car.... showing drainage tubes...etc????