the way I do it. while parked in park, put seat where you want it and press the button, either 1 or 2, then press set. now the seat will go to that position when you have changed it and want to go back to the preset. you can't do this when the car is being driven.
Just to add to what brinwood said, don't forget that the car came with two sets of keys/remote key fobs. One set of keys/fob controls memory button 1 and one set memory button 2.
And don't forget to also set the driver's and passenger's mirrors before you hit the set button. They are controlled by the same memory.
i have a 97 aurora an it do not start no lights come on when i try to start i was told it was my battery but when it was starting it act like it didnt want to so my question it do anyone have the same proplem as me if so HELP!!!
There are 4 speed sensors in each hub that detect the wheel speed to correlate with your abs or traction control.. If any of the sensors are defective or nonop your light will come on on the dash and the abs or traction control may not work properly.
I have the same problems with my lumbar buttons too. Mine also will turn on by themselves while driving down the road. Recently all 4 of my windows stoppeed working,but all my fuses, connections, and switches are all good. Can't figure it out. If you find anything out let me know would ya. Thanks
Thanks for the detailed instructions. It worked great for my 1999 Aurora. Problem was flashing of the turn and cornering lights after the car was turned off. The five hole squirt and air application solved my problem. Since I did not have a compressor I used my shop vac. Your detailed step-by-step was most helpful. [kenith]
A new alternator was replaced but after a few days later battery had to be replaced also. Replaced with a new battery but voltage kept going low, it started with 14.50 voltage and now its only at 11+. Monitoring system also indicating to check charge system. What's causing this problem?
hello to everyone im new to this site. I have a 96 aurora 115,000 miles . My problem is i was on my way home from work one day and i went to turn the corner and hit the gas and noticed that it had shut off on its on. so i pulled over and it started right up like nothing happened. Maybe 5 miles later it did it again while i was just coasting down the road so i pulled over and attempted to start it again this time with no luck...... now i noticed before it cut off my oil pressure went from regular operating pressure down to 5psi on the information center. And when i tried to start it up agian it just made a cliking noise but the power was being drained because the lights were getting dimmer. So i had it towed to the repair shop and the replaced my starter, alternator, gave it an oil change and the battery was brand new and now it still wont start. they are telling me that i just need to swap the engine cause its gone bad. does anyone have any clue to whats going on im so confused i dont know what to do. oh ya not to mention my service engine light had been on for about 2 months (on and off) the sad thing is no one could tell me y it was on,and at one point while i was driving the service engine light would flash occasionally
well see the funny thing about it was that my service engine light had been on and off for about a month and half, no one could tell me why the light was on and occasionally the light would flash at me. and when i took it to schafer & strominger they told me that my engine had seized up and i needed a new one. and he said that he turned it manually and he got it to start but while it was running he said it sounded like something was cought in the motor. i just dont get it.
All of a sudden my gages(Fuel, Batter, Oil, Information Center, A/C temp, and door locks) just quit working! So I got my battery replaced because they tested and it was bad! Now they still don't work. Does anybody know what fuse goes to them? I lost my owners manual, so I am screwed! Please help me!!!!!
Jeff, Try the Maxifuse/Relay Center located under the hood. The inside of the cover has a chart that explains the features and controls governed by each fuse and relay. You probably have already discovered that there should be 3 main fuse panels; namely, (1) the instrument panel fuse block and (2&3) 2 (driver's side and passenger side) rear compartment fuse blocks. The "fuse block instrument panel" has fuses arranged in rows with 4 across and 7 down. Upper left hand corner = #1 fuse, uppper right hand corner = #4 fuse, etc. Look at fuse #17 which is the 1st one in the 5th row from the top. This is the "Driver Instrument Center" one. P.S. There should be a fuse puller clipped to the inside of teh cover to the fuse box unless it's been "misplaced". Hope this helps.
Hey there! Thank you for your suggestion, we tried it and it didn't help:(! I just don't know what else it could be, I guess I am going to have to take it to the shop and see. Anymore suggestions on what it could be?
Hey there! Ok, I figured it out myself before I went and spent money! There are 2 fuse boxes under the back seat and it was my instrument panel fuse blown! I did need a new battery too, so I got a new battery! But I fixed my gages! THank you so much, you were a big help!
I am new to the forum. In researching old posts I found similar problems and answers but not exactly the same. I have a 1998 Aurora with 212000 miles. Suddenly all power windows and the sunroof stopped working. I checked the circuit breaker under the rear seat. It was very hot to the touch. I thought it might be bad so I exchanged it for an identical circuit breaker that protected a different circuit. It also didn't fix the problem and got very hot. I put the original breaker into the non-power window circuit and it worked fine.
Has anyone had this happen, and better yet found out what was wrong?
Hi, What is the part called and where is it located that controls the auto lamps. My lights were staying on so I pulled the fuses to turn them off. When I re-installed the fuses the problem was solved but I know it will happen again. Thanks for any help.
Nevermind, I just noticed brinwoods detailed fix-it. Guess I'll have to go and tear it apart. When I'm done I guess I'll owe Brin one of "his" favorite beverages! Thanks.
I have a 2001 Aurora and I am having a problem with the DIC as well. When I start my car at night I can see the information center is faintly working. Do you have any advice on how I can brighten the DIC information?
Hello everyone. I have a 1995 Aurora that I love. Lately, the gauge, radio, and instrument panel lights will go out when I turn on the headlights. When the headlights are switched off, the lights return. Anyone have any ideas about how to fix?
My '95 Aurora doesn't start, the security system light turned on, and it gives me a messages that says "clean key, wait three minutes". I already did and it doesn't work. My dad is a mechanic and he says he might be able to fix it, but he wants to know how to disable the security system or how to restart the computer. Please help!
the problem is with the receiver that activates the electrical system when the key is inserted in the key slot by the computer chip in the key. my aurora did the same thing and the gm dealer said he could bypass that portion of the security system for about three hundred dollars. luckily it cured itself after getting that message a half a dozen times over a period of a month, i could always get it started by wiping the key and waiting 3 minutes. the dealer said it was quite complex and didn't suggest doing it myself because it is tied into the computer and more damage could result if the bypass wasn't done correctly.
The part that is tied to the key is a separate box and far less than $300 I'd think. It is accessed by dropping the glove box. You might get at it from the lower panel. This box does all the sensing and then sends signals to the computer allowing start and fuel pump I think. If you read through the forum, I think there is info. It might be the two wires from the ignition to the box have a problem or the ignition switch not making good contact with the key. Some have put a resistor of the same value as the one on the key at the box location with success. This deletes the two wires from the ignition switch and your car will think the key is always in when it comes to security.
my radiator has a crack right below where the upper radiator hose goes into the radiator.... hear this is a common problem...wondering if anyone has used j/b weld to fix this problem or has any ideas rather than a new radiator.... $$$$$..
I replaced my radiator. Bought a new OEM off ebay. Hey if it works do it the cheap way, but I wouldnt skimp on that engine block. the more stress you put on it the less you'll get out of it. Good luck. New radiator was around 150$ with fluid costs around 175 total. Take it to the dealer and they will charge you 600-700 for the job if not more.
My 1998 got a leak in the exact same place. I opted for the new radiator, hoses, a water pump (leaking also), and a themostat. Private mechanic. My 1998 had about 84K at the time, about 2 years ago. I was planning on keeping it so I bit the bullet rather than find myself stranded somewhere.
If you want, I will look up what I paid to get this stuff done.
just got off the phone with a radiator dealer... if i pull it they will replace the plastic end cap for 100.00... i am going to go that way.. really didn't want to skimp on her.... luv the car.. surely wasn't going to give her a drink of stop leak like someone told me to do..
YOu may be money ahead to spend an extra hundred on a quality new one. Assume you do a major flush to get gunk out of system. You may damage water pump and it be short lived. But you could save most of the fluid and only have to add a little with the swap. Buy quality new hoses, not the cheap ones, they won't last. While the radiator is in the shop, you can have them clean it. A flush just does not do the job of some of that gunk and won't remove corrosion layer from inside core. So you spend a little on that. Your radiator is still old, other tank is aged and core is likely getting weak. Maybe it lasts a year, but then you are back to buying a new one plus fluids and labor. Theirs or yours.
Your approach with the radiator shop, replacing the top end, is FAR less expensive than a new radiator.
When mine let go, I nearly got stuck 40 miles from home in the middle of nowhere with the wife and two dogs in the car in the dead of the frigid New England Winter. My 1998 now has 110K miles and is my daily driver 24/7/365. I too initially hesitated at a new radiator because of the cost. But I don't do the work myself. And I planned on getting a few more years out of the car and didn't want to travel this road again.
For me, I was not comfortable pondering the average effective remaining life expectancy out of a repaired 10 year old radiator (at the time), even if it was boiled out and had been flushed 3 times previously with new/fresh coolant added.
So beyond the safety/peace of mind factor, the labor costs for both the short and long term became the deciding factor for me to simply replace the old one with a new one. Cheaper in my mind to do it once and get it over with.
Another thing in the back of my mind was reading all of the posts from "classic" 1995-1999 Aurora owners about cooling issues in the heat of the summer. There isn't a grill on the car for cooler air intake, away from the scorching pavement, and you can just watch that water teperature needle climb sitting in traffic!
I may have missed some detail re: age of your current radiator but since you appreciate having a great car (mine is a '98 with 118K miles), I replaced the radiator with a new one at 106,000. Why? 1. Core deteriorates over time even with regular maintenance/fluid changes, etc. 2. Leak developed slowly but when the core gave way maximum travel distance before all coolant was gone was approximately 0.5 miile. 3. Have peace of mind with a new radiator; no worries when the weakest spot in the core will give way leaving me high and dry. With the heat buildup and 100+ temps Texas affords us, I just couldn't justify gambling on how much longer the original radiator would last. Good luck.
thanks to the input i have read... i fixed my windows..... the passenger and the back seat riders weren't able to put their windows down....no... the window lock was not the problem...lol...after reading posts about roara problems,i checked the wiring that runs thru the accordion boot between the car and door...there it was...plain as day...broken wire.... quick fix and no dolllars out of my pocket...don't have to put the windows down for everybody while enjoying the smoooth-powerful ride of the roara...they can now do it themselves...thnx all!!!
how shut I off water to heater-core? control unit works great only blows just hot air I cn hear the A/C compress come-on & go-off appropreatly. Even on full defrost I cn feel cold air on the rt & hot on the Left. Just seem like heatercore has Hot water flowing through it. I chk 3 fuses. OK
My 2001 Aurora temperature control panel has recently changes from farenheit to celsius. The DIC is showing liters instead of gallons, km instead of miles. I have looked thru the manual and can not find anything. I am not sure what I might of hit. Does anyone know how I can change these features back? Any assistance would be greatly appreciated. This is driving me crazy!!!
I believe there is no shut off valve and that would make sense with the automatic design. Temp is controlled by blend doors, one each for driver and passenger side. Door may be stuck or malfunctioning. It has also been a common complaint that the driver side is warmer than the passenger when the unit is low on freon.
The Driver Information Center (DIC) displays information in either English or metric. When the system is on or off, push the ON/OFF button down for three seconds to change the display between English and metric. This will also change the digital screen for the climate control system between English and metric.
i have a 96 aurora and i need to know the color for the oem wires to match with the bosch universal o2 sensor wires.... its 2 white wires which has to be the dumbest thing ever... one for the 12v heater and the other for heater ground.. im assuming the thicker white wire is the 12v.... i need to at least know the oem colors for the oxygen sensor signal + and the oxygen sensor signal -
If you read through the forums, you will see that a lot of people have corrected problems that re-arose after a short time by replacing the aftermarket part with a GM OE, especially if computer related and that includes spark.
It is recommended that you change all of them at 100K. I made it to about 125K before the first one went and within a year two more failed. And the one after the converter is suspect for a problem although it does not show a code. If you are past 100K, do yourself a favor and change all 4 of them. You might want to put a small amount of anti-seize on the threads. There are two places talked about in the forum that discount parts. One, I think is GM Direct. I ordered from the other, cheaper and fast. GM Direct has a lot of caveats concerning order, read through that.
Greetings. I'm trying to trouble shoot my ride leveling system in my 1999 Olds Aurora. I was told by my mechanic that the compressor and leveling switch was bad. I picked them up from eBay for $100, and replaced them. The compressor now works, but when connected with the leveling switch, it runs continuously. There are no leaks in the system as it will pump the read end up to the moon and it WILL stay there for weeks. I've tried a second leveling switch and the same problem prevails. Any ideas on the problem mode? I was thinking that there might be a solenoid, or a relay at the compressor that may be causing it to stay on all the time. Thoughts?
Chances of 2 switches being bad are minimal. It's possibly a wiring problem. You need to check the switch connector real good and follow the wiring harness looking for any breaks or places where it might be rubbing metal and possibly shorting out.
hey guys. It has been a while. well I have a pin hole fuel leak just inside of cover on the motor of '96 olds aurora 8 cyl. I have found the sight for what vin # was recalled but i dont know if mine is in it yet. I am taking it into a shop that has fixed my car for more than 10 years. Will the makers of olds aurora honor the recall if i am not the origanal owner? I cant drive it to the nearest dealer because it is about an hours drive from where I live.I am a single mother and I am afraid to drive it after I found out it can catch on fire. I am in Georgia and need to know where to call about recall. Will it do me any good?
Recalls follow the car, regardless of owner and ownership changes. This recall repair should be performed by your GM/Cadillac dealership as they took up the slack when Oldsmobile was terminated.
Call the dealer with your vin #, explain the issue, and to verify their recall repair protocol.
I just bought a 2001 Aurora 3.5. While it wasn't leaking oil at all before I bought it, it is now. It appears to be leaking above the pulleys on the left hand side of the engine but the leak could be lower and shooting it up when the belt turns, right?
I have a 2001 Aurora 3.5, and after heavy rains... the rear drivers side floorpan is FULL of water. I have adjusted the sunroof... as it seems to 'sag' in it's seats.... and have had my shop blow air through the front drain tubes in the sunroof drains... Is there any other drainage tube that runs down the pillar between the doors on the drivers side???? How else could this amount of water get in??? Any help would be appreciated!!!!! Is there a WEB site where I can get an engineer's diagram of this car.... showing drainage tubes...etc????
If it is the fuel rail, it is definitely covered. The pressure regulator is not. If it is the railk, sadly they cheaped out on the fix. It is stainless steel and rigid, no flex at all. This could interfere with the injectors keeping a good seal and also it makes it so the intake manifold can not be removed without first removing the replacement rail.
Comments
Thanks.
now the seat will go to that position when you have changed it and want to go back to the preset.
you can't do this when the car is being driven.
And don't forget to also set the driver's and passenger's mirrors before you hit the set button. They are controlled by the same memory.
Try the Maxifuse/Relay Center located under the hood. The inside of the cover has a chart that explains the features and controls governed by each fuse and relay. You probably have already discovered that there should be 3 main fuse panels; namely, (1) the instrument panel fuse block and (2&3) 2 (driver's side and passenger side) rear compartment fuse blocks. The "fuse block instrument panel" has fuses arranged in rows with 4 across and 7 down. Upper left hand corner = #1 fuse, uppper right hand corner = #4 fuse, etc.
Look at fuse #17 which is the 1st one in the 5th row from the top. This is the "Driver Instrument Center" one.
P.S. There should be a fuse puller clipped to the inside of teh cover to the fuse box unless it's been "misplaced".
Hope this helps.
Has anyone had this happen, and better yet found out what was wrong?
What is the part called and where is it located that controls the auto lamps. My lights were staying on so I pulled the fuses to turn them off. When I re-installed the fuses the problem was solved but I know it will happen again.
Thanks for any help.
Guess I'll have to go and tear it apart.
When I'm done I guess I'll owe Brin one of "his" favorite beverages!
Thanks.
If you read through the forum, I think there is info. It might be the two wires from the ignition to the box have a problem or the ignition switch not making good contact with the key. Some have put a resistor of the same value as the one on the key at the box location with success. This deletes the two wires from the ignition switch and your car will think the key is always in when it comes to security.
cheap way, but I wouldnt skimp on that engine block. the more stress you put on it the less you'll get out of it. Good luck. New radiator was around 150$ with fluid costs around 175 total. Take it to the dealer and they will charge you 600-700
for the job if not more.
If you want, I will look up what I paid to get this stuff done.
Assume you do a major flush to get gunk out of system. You may damage water pump and it be short lived. But you could save most of the fluid and only have to add a little with the swap. Buy quality new hoses, not the cheap ones, they won't last. While the radiator is in the shop, you can have them clean it. A flush just does not do the job of some of that gunk and won't remove corrosion layer from inside core. So you spend a little on that. Your radiator is still old, other tank is aged and core is likely getting weak. Maybe it lasts a year, but then you are back to buying a new one plus fluids and labor. Theirs or yours.
When mine let go, I nearly got stuck 40 miles from home in the middle of nowhere with the wife and two dogs in the car in the dead of the frigid New England Winter. My 1998 now has 110K miles and is my daily driver 24/7/365. I too initially hesitated at a new radiator because of the cost. But I don't do the work myself. And I planned on getting a few more years out of the car and didn't want to travel this road again.
For me, I was not comfortable pondering the average effective remaining life expectancy out of a repaired 10 year old radiator (at the time), even if it was boiled out and had been flushed 3 times previously with new/fresh coolant added.
So beyond the safety/peace of mind factor, the labor costs for both the short and long term became the deciding factor for me to simply replace the old one with a new one. Cheaper in my mind to do it once and get it over with.
Another thing in the back of my mind was reading all of the posts from "classic" 1995-1999 Aurora owners about cooling issues in the heat of the summer. There isn't a grill on the car for cooler air intake, away from the scorching pavement, and you can just watch that water teperature needle climb sitting in traffic!
1. Core deteriorates over time even with regular maintenance/fluid changes, etc.
2. Leak developed slowly but when the core gave way maximum travel distance before all coolant was gone was approximately 0.5 miile.
3. Have peace of mind with a new radiator; no worries when the weakest spot in the core will give way leaving me high and dry. With the heat buildup and 100+ temps Texas affords us, I just couldn't justify gambling on how much longer the original radiator would last.
Good luck.
Even on full defrost I cn feel cold air on the rt & hot on the Left.
Just seem like heatercore has Hot water flowing through it.
I chk 3 fuses. OK
The Driver Information Center (DIC) displays
information in either English or metric. When the
system is on or off, push the ON/OFF button down
for three seconds to change the display between English
and metric. This will also change the digital screen for
the climate control system between English and metric.
http://aurorah.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=Audio&action=display&thread=17780
asap
If you read through the forums, you will see that a lot of people have corrected problems that re-arose after a short time by replacing the aftermarket part with a GM OE, especially if computer related and that includes spark.
It is recommended that you change all of them at 100K. I made it to about 125K before the first one went and within a year two more failed. And the one after the converter is suspect for a problem although it does not show a code. If you are past 100K, do yourself a favor and change all 4 of them. You might want to put a small amount of anti-seize on the threads. There are two places talked about in the forum that discount parts. One, I think is GM Direct. I ordered from the other, cheaper and fast. GM Direct has a lot of caveats concerning order, read through that.
Call the dealer with your vin #, explain the issue, and to verify their recall repair protocol.
Anyone else have this particular problem?
Is there any other drainage tube that runs down the pillar between the doors on the drivers side???? How else could this amount of water get in???
Any help would be appreciated!!!!! Is there a WEB site where I can get an engineer's diagram of this car.... showing drainage tubes...etc????