The wires on my 99 are white, they are in a black casing that runs from the ignition switch over the steering column and back into a bundle of wires that connect to harness on the left side of the firewall on the drivers side. Good luck
Our 2001 Aurora won't start or turn over. It blew the starter relay switch and we replaced that with a new one. Checked all others in engine area and under back seat fuse box but all are good. We had battery, alternator, starter, ignition control module checked at auto parts store but all were at full strength. Any suggestions?
First, you did not say which engine you had and as I recall, that year also had a V6 available. So does it have solenoid on starter? If it is the 4.0, and had the starter tested, then you have pulled the intake manifold, so is power getting to the starter? Can you hear the starter attempt to engage? GM had three engines that were highly effected with blown gaskets in connection with DexCool, the 3.0, 3.?, & 3.8. You may have blown gasket, flooding combustion chamber, and water will not compress thus you can not get it to turn over. Pull spark plugs and try it. You could still have a seized up engine if everything in the start circuit is working.
I am having the same water leak problems in my 2001 Aurora. Where is the rain deflector shield located???? Was it easy to install???? Did it fix the problem???? Any help would be appreciated!!!! Dan
It's a 4.0. I forget to post things like that in my messages. NOT mechanically inclined unlilke dad. I finally got pissed at it and towed it to a garage. It was the starter even though it had tested good. Wasn't firing at all inside. Couldn't find any used or rebuilt parts so had to buy new one for $250. There went our light bill payment. Now we're having problems with it overheating all the time. We're going to start with the thermostat since it's cheaper and we can hear a noise like a groan when it's starting to get ready to overheat. We're hard of hearing so it's hard to describe. Any suggestions?
Can anyone tell me how to reset my welcome name on the DIC message? Mine says welcome Alex but I've tried holding the reset button to erase the name or at least have just a hello. Bugs the crap outta me.
I would check all of the simple and obvious things first because several things could cause overheating.
You didn't say where you live (outdoor temperatures) or the situations where the overheating occurs (stop and go).
Is the coolant level in the overflow tank.correct? Do you have to keep adding coolant? If so, there is a leak...... somewhere.
Is the coolant fresh/functional? Antifreeze (fresh) keeps water from freezing but it also raises the boiling temperature. The mixture in the engine coolant system optimally should be 50%.
Is there any coolant on the ground, visible under the car after you left it parked overnight?
Some folks with 1999 and prior Auroras find they are missing the rubber air deflector under the front fascia (bumper) which provides adequate air flow up and through the radiator to cool the coolant.
Or steam under the hood? Check in the dark with a flashlight when the engine is hot and running, especially around hoses, hose connections and the water pump. Don't reach in and get your hand chopped off!
Is the overflow tube between the radiator and the overflow tank blocked, not allowing the coolant in the overflow tank to replenish the radiator? Sometimes the coolant level in the overflow tank appears correct but the radiator is low on coolant! There may be some blockage.
Is your overflow tank cracked and leaking? Some have had this problem.
Do you smell antifreeze burning but get no leakage on the ground? This could indicate a head gasket leak.. You might find coolant in the motor oil.....discoloration and smell of the oil.
And you are right, a failing thermostat stuck in the closed or partially closed position could cause the overheating because the the engine is not getting enough cooler coolant from the radiator. It is one of the less expensive starting points if you come up blank with the more obvious stuff.
I have had a leaking radiator where the top radiator hose connects to the radiator which no one could find for 6 months until the system was pressure tested. I also had a slightly seeping/failing water pump which was discovered at the same time. Mechanic found these using the "in the dark with a flashlight" approach and a simple system pressure test.
Have your mechanic check this stuff before jumping in to any repairs. I am fortunate to have a long and positve relationship of 15 years with a private mechanic who actually diagnoses the problem from the symptoms, starting with the most obvious and cheapest stuff first.. He doesn't just start throwing my money up against the wall with replacement parts, hoping some of that money sticks and the problem is solved. He is not the cheapest, but I have never had a "bring back, it ain't fixed."
Memory is a little foggy at this moment, but it seemed to me that the orientation of the thermostat could affect flow. The support arms built into it might partially impede circulation. And if you are going as far as to replace thermostat, consider doing a flush and fill since you will lose much of the fluid anyway. To do it properly you will need to remove thermostat and run water through system until it is clear. Add flush and run without thermostat and I prefer to do this on hotter days since it gets radiator hotter allowing chemicals to work better. Some say to never flush because it causes leaks. In truth these were likely impending failures that the antifreezes antileak properties were hiding. And if you have a weak water pump, it will likely show up as well because water does not lubricate as well as antifreeze. Weak heater cores will show up as well. Also I've found that the crud created with Dexcool is rather stubborn and might take extra effort to remove from radiator. I talked with a radiator shop and they say they can get it out and it was only about $25 if I took the radiator to them. A very small price compared to a new one. And don't forget hoses. Yours being an '01, you may have some life left in them if they are originals. Too often they get replaced with cheap hoses and I made such a mistake. It blew when it was one year old. My past experience on Olds and Pontiac was that V-8, non-serpentine belts and hoses were good for about 10 years. The OEM was of higher quality than base available. Belts were often DayCo and I suspect the hoses were too. So, either by OEM or find a parts place that has access to all models. Example, I found one that handles full DayCo line and moving one step up from OEM was a cogged belt. The next step up was a Top-Cog. Remember, no belt will last if pulley alignment is wrong. I had an OEM belt that I changed at 120K because it was starting to crack.
You did not post mileage on vehicle. Most seem to love the vehicle, 95-99 especially, but hate repairs, so you will have to look at it as an investment if you wish to keep. And I'd look around for the info on bonding the radiator, etc. to ground to stop galvanic corrosion.
I live in the far right corner of North Alabama. The car has 220000+ miles on it. The thermostat is opening up fine when warmed up and the fan kicks in. It will overheat in regular traffic, stop and go, and long distance driving. Once the car warms up. There aren't any leaks. You can't smell the antifreeze until it boils over when we've sit for a long time or overnight trying to refill the resivor. We've filled it cool and when it's cool and running to get it circulating. No coolant on the ground. Not missing the deflector. Overflow tubes and hoses aren't blocked. However, we have just bought the car in June and this is the 1st thing wrong. We'll try flushing the radiator and see if that helps. We do have steam or smoke coming out back side of the engine and no hoses are located there. Don't know if this is related or not.
Where is the location on a 2001 Oldsmobile Aurora thermostat and the water pump. We can hear the thermostat kick in but can't find it. One auto store said it was on top of engine area and other said it's on the right. Can't afford the repair shop right now. We're looking to flush the system to see if it cures the overheating problem.
On the 4.0 it is at the rear of the engine, driver's side. The thermostat is in the block housing where the upper radiator hose goes. Two bolts, as I recall. The water pump is near there. Just follow the belt that is on that end of engine. One end is driven by the camshaft. There is a bracket/shield that needs removing to get at belt and idler/tensioner. You may as well check the condition of the belt and the idler pulley while there. You can replace just the pulley rather than the entire tensioner, and the bearing will go out at some time. Look for play in the bearing. Earlier models had the drain cock for the radiator hidden up inside the frame.
I have a 2001 V6, I've had it for 2 1/3 years and 35k miles (has 120k) and realized it has the standard green antifreeze not DEX COOL. I've had no problems with it while I've owned it
I lose power when its raining or very high humidity to the point the car going up hills crawls and backfires and i have to pull over and restart.the engine is hard to start in moist weather and at idle surges from 500 rpm to 1500 rpm constantly...is it the Mass Air Flow Sensor?
The issue with Dex Cool was that folks/mechanics claimed it was eating gaskets if my memory serves me correctly, and some switched to the green stuff like Prestone. The matter was "settled" and the Dex Cool was reformulated.
I brought this up with my experienced mechanic and he was aware of the issue.. He does not use Dex Cool.
I have a 2001 Aurora 3.5 that is leaking water into the floorboard of the driver's side back seat. I have blown compressed air through the drain tubes towards the front of the sun roof... and they appear to be clear. Are there any other "drains" from the sunroof????? The water is not dripping from the roof, as the tops of the seats and headliner are not wet. Could it be the seal around the back window???? The trunk appears to be dry.... but I do understand that water leaks can be hard to trace back. Any help would be very appreciated!!!!!
Recently my A/C compressor has been making a whining noise. The A/C in my car has not worked for about two years. I do not want my A/C compressor to seize on me and I don't have the money right now to buy a new or used one and pay for the installation. So, I am going to attempt to take out the Compressor and replace the serpentine belt with a shorter size.
Does anyone have any advice before I start this project sometime next week?
My 96 had sensors for over and under pressure that would disengage clutch. So it seems odd that the clutch would be engaging when your system has not been working. Is the noise because the bearing is going out? What you are attempting to do sounds more of a headache than what it is worth. If the compressor is actually engaging, just remove the electrical plug. If it is the bearing you could have just the bearing replaced, maybe. But because you say it has not been working you might be wasting money on bearing if compressor is bad. The main question would be, "why was AC not working?" Was the problem because of blend doors or control head, or something to do with the freon circuit? That is, did the freon leak out, or possibly a blockage in system? Still, in either case I would say it is best to change the pump and leave the wires disconnected at the compressor. Often you are required to buy a new accumulator at the same time as compressor to get long term warranty. Just make sure you put the proper amount of oil in system. Leave system sealed until you are ready to finish repair, then disconnect at accumulator and pump, flush lines, reconnect and then finish charging. Or you could get the flush out of the way before installing new pump and accumulator. I would also check the orifice tube while it is apart.
My belt idler pulley/ belt tensioner was making the racket, not the a/c compressor. Turned out the bearing in that was cooked. This was at 73K miles on a 1998 about 2.5 years ago. These parts plus the belt ran about $195.
The bearing in the a/c compressor had a lot of play in it at the time but was still functional.
enet knows more than I do about this stuff. But it is not an easy repair the way these items are packed so close to the right fender well and down in there.
Regarding disconnecting the wire to the a/c compressor. Wouldn't that isolate the noise problem between the idler assembly and the compressor? Also, there is a button on the center console by all of the hvac controls that says AC. It is lighted when the a/c is operating automatically and can be pressed to shut off the a/c compressor when you don't want it cycling on and off.
Live in Florida, bought the car used in 2005 with about 50,000 miles, great shape inside and out. Once the weather turned cold enough for a heater I noticed that occassionally the car would just stop running while sitting at a red light. It started right up again and didn't show anything in the information center. It still does it now and then.
I drive two vehicles changing out between the 1998 Aurora and a 1996 Lumina. I had been driving the Lumina for awhile and changed back to the Aurora driving at night when it started raining and I reached to the left for the windshield wipers and messed with the Aurora dimmer switch/cruised control instead, then realized my error. Upon returning home, I turned the car off and went inside, next day the battery was dead, seems while trying to turn on the wipers, I turned something on that drained the battery, anyways the battery was dead. It was fully recharged and the car starts up as always, however since then the information center lighting, the radio lighting, and other center dash lights, radio lights, thermostat light, a/c-heater light intermittently just disappear or don't light up when the car starts. Now, another oddity since that time and it didn't start happening immediately after the dead battery episode but, I started to hear an chattering, arcing sound from the left side of the dash and I think it was coming from the dimmer/cruise, once I turned off the cruise at the switch, it stopped. A day or so later I stood in the yard with the dog early in the morning and the parking lights on the car flashed on and then went off again several times, I feared the battery would be dead again but the car started right up as always. The cables were removed completely from the battery in an effort to reset it if you will and it seemed to work for a short time, the dash lights came on and stayed on when they should have, the arcing sound was gone for a week or two then it started all over again with the exception of the flashing parking lights. Ideas or educated guesses?!
Another problem with it! I drove it a few miles one night and noticed the temperature was rising, I turned off the a/c, parked and turned it off. The windows fogged up, the temp kept rising. I was able to drive it home and park it. Next morning checked the antifreeze and it was not at the cold line, added some antifreeze and its been fine for a couple of weeks. Today driving in heavy stop and go traffic I noticed the temp rising again, turned off the air while sitting and on while moving, got home and smelled antifreeze. It's dripping front and center about a foot back from the hood latch. Suggestions?
I have a friend who also had a 1998 Aurora with the V8. He also had some of the same symptoms. Turned out to be "Crankshaft Position Sensor"... I think it maybe is even a factory recall. I also had to replace the same part on my 2001 V6... but not a recall. It just manifested itself as an engine missfire for me. Hope this helps!!!
Check out the easy stuff first. Radiator, clamps, and hoses. Water pump. Thermostat. The air dam under the front fascia. Fresh coolant. A properly functioning radiator cap. And if I am not mistaken, isn't there an auxiliary electric cooling fan to assist the radiator fan when the temperatures exceed 220?
When the car is hot and it is dark, and with the engine running, take a flashlight and see if you can locate exactly what the source of the steam is. If you are fortunate, you may have a leaky radiator, a bad thermostat, or a failing water pump issue. I had both the radiator and the water pump issues at the same time a year ago about now. I have a 1998 Autobahn with 111K.
The location you mentioned, about 12 inched behind the hood latch......
Well as you are facing the engine in the dark and using your flashlight, you might want to look over to your left (car's right side) under the radiator shroud to see if either the top radiator neck is the source due to a failing hose, a loose hose clamp, or a leak in the radiator at the top neck (common). The leak may be running across the top of the radiator to the center as you described, 12 inches behind the latch.
The water pump is up front too, but off to the right of center as you are facing the engine. Mine was still functioning but was seeping, and you could see steam from that as well as the wetness. By the way, how old is your thermostat? Is it functioning correctly or stuck intermittently? That is right there with the water pump.
Some guys are missing the rubber air dam under the front fascia. Since there is no grill on the car, this air dam is the only thing forcing cooler air up into the engine compartment and assisting the radiator in the cooling process.
The symptom you describe is consistent with a leaking fuel pressure regulator. I have replaced 3 in my '97 with 170,000 miles. The part costs about $50 (buy nothing but AC Delco) and takes ~10 minutes to replace. If I am right, outside temp was merely a coincidence.
Gave up the ghost at 111,000 miles on my 1998 with no warning. Worse, it happened at 11 PM on an interstate 25 miles from home with the wife and the dog in the car. Not good.
Further, the metal fuel pump mounting ring on the top of the plastic gas tank was 80% gonzo, requiring a new tank (drop rear suspension). The repair guy showed me the old tank and pump, and the old fuel pump was essentially attached to virtually nothing.
The good news is that the pump assembly includes a new fuel gauge sender, so now the fuel gauge works properly. The better news is that the check engine light throwing a fuel evaporation code has been resolved with this fix, and the car will pass emissions. And the raw gas fumes I very recently started to get on a full tank, also gone.
Wife bugging me to get rid of the car....... My exceptional economic analysis of the benefits of the repairs versus vehicle replacement is falling on deaf ears.
Apparently to her the dog's safety trumps my argument.
You poor dude. We had the alternator go out on our 2001 without warning about 2 blocks away from the shop. The city was working on the road we was on and had to detour but didn't have enough power to get there. Husband is still recovering from 2 total hip replacements and I had just gotten cortisone injections in foot. Had given kids only cell phone to take to college that day in case they broke down in [non-permissible content removed] car. I knocked on every house but no one home and just happen to come across woman talking on phone in yard. Mechanic started looking at it and said just about whole front end has to come off just to get to alternator. Under the radiator area. Who were the genuises who thought of that design. It's like they want to piss of every shade tree mechanic around. And the alternator was almost $320! even a rebuilt one was only $30-40 less. Love the car but hate
Thanks for all the input. Soon to be in the process of changing the water pump, had to get that special socket, Autozone lends it out with a $30 refundable fee. Will let you know the outcome.
This may sound unimportant to some, but to those of us who not only love the Aurora, but love our dogs as well, this is important. My dog loves to ride with me when possible I take him but his nails are leaving deep scratches in the leather seat in the back and his drool is making the back door sloppy, now the door cleans up ok but the seat is another story. I've tried hanging a piece of cardboard on the door when he goes with me but it looks tacky and doesn't work very well. I've tried covering the seat with a blanket, sheet, towel and of course he just slips and slids on those and they end up on the floor. Suggestions?
jhowdy......I did some reading on this forum on the topic of overheating. A couple of folks found the coolant level in the radiator was low while the overflow tank was filled to the proper level. Blocked tube.
A couple of folks found a leak in the overflow tank.....cracked. Other things discussed. A faulty radiator cap.
Little overlooked things can cause big problems. I just hope you find a simpler and less expensive fix.
I have had and have Dobermans. The Aurora has been and is the dog car. The rear seats are unmarked by dog nail scratches. My first male was 32" tall at the withers and weighed 130. The female was 27" and 75 pounds, a squirmy worm. Blankets were effective for about 5 minutes if that. Your solutions to avoiding scratching the rear leather seats is threefold. The proper seat cover. Short dog nails. A collapsible fabric dog crate that can be slid into the back seat and then opened up.
There are washable and easily removable seat covers, but they are only as good as the fit and effectiveness of the adjustment mechanisms, usually the expandable corners and draw strings. Cheapos......don't waste your time, money, or patience on them. They are as ineffective as the blankets.
Get your dog's nails shortened by a professional groomer. Then keep them short and blunt. You should not be able to hear your dog walking on a hard floor around the house. If the groomer cannot get them short enough because of the location of the nail quick (from being too long), have the vet put the dog out and shorten them, very short. Then keep them short. We do our dogs' nails at least once a week. We use a Dremmel tool and grind them. Fast. Accurate. And good for keeping the edges blunt. If you think all of this is a lot of wasted money, you may find that your dog's natural gait has been altered by the longer nails, and this will show up later while you are writing checks at the vet's office when the dog's hips and other leg joints start acting up due to stress caused by the unnatural gait, even if it is ever so slight and not noticeable to the normal person. Your floors and rugs and couches will last a lot longer and look newer to boot.
Wal-Mart and Target and similar discount places sell collapsible fabric (washable/wipeable) dog crates that fold up and fit in a bag. These can be far less expensive than hitting a pet supply store that charges 2 or 3 times more for essentially the same thing. Some collapsible dog crates zipper on the end for ingress and egress. Some also zipper on the side. And some zipper on top as well. The collapsible dog crate would keep the dog's nails and slobber in check. It is also the safest way to travel with your dog in your car. I figured I didn't need 200 pounds of dogs flying around the inside of the car if I hit something or something hit me. Saves on vet bills too because dog injuries are reduced in the event of a collision. Finally, you can fit these dog crates in the back seat collapsed and then open them up. There isn't a lot of width and height clearance in the back of the Aurora for the non-collapsible dog crates.
Again, I thank you for your input, great idea, the collapsible crate. I have a Blue Heeler, he's always wired, bossy, doesn't like you to touch anything of his, lol, especially his feet. I have the rotary nail file but don't have much luck holding him, using the tool and keeping my fingers! All this said, I love him dearly and wouldn't trade him for any other dog, so I'll check out the crate and he can stand in it while attempting to chase a passing car instead of cutting up my Aurora back seat. Thanks for the advise re. his nails and possible future problems.
Our 2001 Aurora started running hot about a month ago. We put in a new thermostat with no luck. Took to a garage and had a pressure check but everything was fine. Mechanic said to get a new radiator cap and that water pump seemed to be working fine b/c it wasn't overheating just sitting there. It was after driving about 30 minutes. No matter what traffic- stop and go or driving on highway 50-65 mph. The mechanic said that he's had about 3-4 cadillac cars and engines that had overheated just a little and messed up the engine. He did another pressure test but showed no leaks, didn't blow out through engine, and doesn't leak from tailpipe. Car still overheats fast and needs a long time to cool off. We've flushed radiator, refilled with fresh and water, put stop leak in it, changed oil. Had a starter problem last month and had to replace. This month the alternator went out and now it's also saying to use headlights on DIC panel although it's very bright out and in an open area without shadows. This engine has over 215000 miles on it and not sure if I want to put more $ into it. Owe 9 more payments of 150. Help!!!! The kids need it for college.
Good morning and a question: Does your Aurora appear to be losing coolant; i.e., is additional coolant needed every so often? Does your diagnostics-to-date include checking if coolant vapor is present in the exhaust? I had a similar situation and it turned out to be a leaking head gasket. Tried to replace the head gasket but couldn't torque the bolts sufficiently without striping the threads in the block. Ended up replacing the engine with a used one. Perhaps my experience will help in your efforts to find the culprit with your Aurora. Good luck.
Well, it's done, the water pump has been changed, no more leaking, no more antifreeze smell. So for now, I'll consider the problem solved. Thanks again. If things change in the near future, I'll be back looking for answers.
We put more water and coolant anytime we drive it since it boils through the over-flow tank. If we don't do this we can't drive it far without overheating right away. No water or vapor in exhaust but the mechanic said it might not do that anyways. Is there any way to check to make sure the water pump is running 100%? Mechanic pressured tested it and said it was fine but wary of needing new engine. If needed how much do they go for and about how much for mechanic. We're pinching pennies so hard ol Abe is screaming.
There is also a chemical test to check for combustion gases in the coolant itself.
One sure-fire method is to pressurize the system and then remove the spark plugs while the system is under pressure, and look for drops of coolant on the plugs, or using a scope, inside the cylinder.
It's a LOT of miles----the engine, and the car, owe you nothing at this point.
Nail trimming is a two person job with one person restraining the dog while the other does the "manicure."
The control person can use 'to die for" food to distract the pup while the other is working on the nails. Start out by doing only one or two nails each day for a few weeks. Use a muzzle initially or until the pup reaches the conclusion that resistance and tantrums don't work.
Eventually it can become a one person job and some dogs go from going ballistic nail trimming time to taking a nap during the process.
Stripping the threads is common with this engine. Doing a rebuild requires using helicoils for the heads. Most have stripped them out when removing. It sounds like you got lucky and maybe would not have had the problem if you used anti-seize and some engines require new head bolts when assemblying.
When I turn car my car on the dash lights dont come on but when I turn the day headlights off manually my dash lights will come on but my headlights go off. I did put in a new multifunction switch about 2 years ago now they are saying it is this again I am not under any warranty and this is going to cost around 850.00 again could it be something else, also when I press in on the roller for the twilight it will make the lights flicker both the dash and the headlights sometimes they will both stay on and sometimes goes back to either no dash lights or no headlights.
HERE is THE FIX AGAIN Yes I too can confirm that the multifunction headlight switch is what makes the headlights randomly flash back on and off after the car is turned off. The relays inside the Lamp Control Module box located under the left side of the dash will also make a random click noise that coincides with the random flashing of the lights. In my case and most others, you will find that the Lamp Control Module is not the problem and niether is the twilight sentinel adjustment control. Again, the multifunction switch seems to be the common culprit. I did a search here and on a couple of the other Aurora forums and everyone seemed to cure their flashing lights/stuck on syndrome by replacing the multifunction switch which cost over $500 for a dealer to do it. I also found a few posts by Hammen and others that made reference to too much grease in the rotating part of the switch where the contacts are housed. I found another post about using contact cleaner with good results and this is what I did to cure my problem today.
Pardon me for being longwinded but here is how I saved over $500 and you can do it too. You will need to gain access to the rotating contact part of the switch that is hidden under the steering wheel covers but you will not have to remove the switch in order to clean it. You will need to buy a can of electrical contact cleaner and a can of compressed air like you use for keyboards. Both can be had at Radio Shack and both come with the red extension tube that fits the spray nozzle. First move the seat all the way back, then disconnect the battery, remove the sound deadeners, remove the two 10mm bolts at bottom of knee bolster, use your fingertips to pry the sentinel/dimmer assembly and trunk/fuel door release assembly from dash (leave harnesses connected and let dangle) to expose the remaining two 10mm bolts securing knee bolster, remove knee bolster, remove 10 amp fuse for Air Bag, disconnect SIR (air bag) yellow connector at lower left corner behind ins panel, tilt wheel up, use 3/16 or 5mm nutdriver to remove 3 screws securing steering wheel top cover (note that 1 screw is accessed thru the opening for the tilt lever while the other 2 are located on either side of the column closest to the lense/guages), remove 3 more of the same small tapping screws securing the lower steering wheel cover to column, remove black ring of text around ignition lock by pulling straight out, upper and lower covers can now be unsnapped and removed. With your left ear against the mirror control looking just forward of where the stalk goes to the column, you will see 5 tiny holes in a semi-circular pattern. When turning the headlamp switch you can see the contacts moving from hole to hole. Spray contact cleaner in the holes and immediately follow up with the compressed air can to flush out the contact cleaner. Move the headlamp switch rapidly thru all the detents and repeat several times with the contact cleaner followed by several bursts of compressed air to flush out the excess cleaner and dry. When finished, wait 30 minutes to make sure contacts are thoroughly dry then reconnect battery and test. Hopefully all is well and like me you just saved some major $
The washing fix works good. All Data has very good wiring diagrams and descriptions if you are slightly inclined. Not sure why you are pressing on the twilight adjustment. That panel will easily pop off, unplug, and test the rheostat inside with a cheap ohm meter. It has to be cheaper than a whole harness assembly.
I have had similar problems with my light switches. Behind the rubber casing they put around the light lever, there are contacts that get caked with grease and dirt. If you take some contact cleaner and a couple long q-tips you can clean these contacts off. Some times it helps to remove a few of the plastic casings that go around the steering wheel and underneath, but it is not always necessary. Typically you can just pull back the rubber housing on the light lever. Spray a good amount of contact cleaner on the tabs and that some times is enough. I typically clean them up with q-tips as well. You can also then take a can of air spray and blow that in there to clean up any debris. I have a feeling your switch was never bad from the get go. Dont fear the Reeper and dont give into the reeper as well.
The shifter lever wont release from park position so that I can select reverse, or any other position. Any suggestions? I'm stuck in my garage and will have to end up towing to dealer if I can't get it to respond.
Try turning your steering wheeel. Sounds like it locked. Turn steering wheel While pulling shifter down into neutral or reverse. If this doesnt work your cable to the shifter might have come undone or it broke.
Iam looking for answers tp figure out why all of a sudden it wont crank over. I checked all the simple things and then replaced the neutral safety switch and it still doesnt crank over. vin. c and the radio reads E34. I dont know the codes or how to run system checks. The starter has always worked fine. and is located under the intake manifold. Craig
There should be a horseshoe-shape retainer that holds the shifter handle in place (on radio side). If the retainer is missing, the handle can move upward so that the button will no longer release the shifter to move. Solution: hit down on the handle sharply with your hand to force it back into position. Then replace the retainer clip.
I have the same issue with my 95. I lubed the cable under the hood and it helped some, it still is hard sometimes. Do not try to force by trying to move to reverse without button pressed in. I found if you put very firm pressure on the release button while you depress on the brake peddle and hold sometimes for a short time, all of the sudden it should release.
Please advise it this works. My wife sometimes had to use two hands to put enough pressure, but it has always released. You might first try the very firm pressure on the button before you try lubing and hold for up to a minute. Don
I find this occasionally happens when the car's front wheels are cranked nearly all the way to the left or to the right, up against the stops. And not just in the Aurora but in other automatic transmission vehicles as well.
Comments
http://mattwindsurfs.wordpress.com/2007/12/30/gm-pass-key-ill-pass/
The wires on my 99 are white, they are in a black casing that runs from the ignition switch over the steering column and back into a bundle of wires that connect to harness on the left side of the firewall on the drivers side. Good luck
Can you hear the starter attempt to engage? GM had three engines that were highly effected with blown gaskets in connection with DexCool, the 3.0, 3.?, & 3.8. You may have blown gasket, flooding combustion chamber, and water will not compress thus you can not get it to turn over. Pull spark plugs and try it. You could still have a seized up engine if everything in the start circuit is working.
Any help would be appreciated!!!!
Dan
You didn't say where you live (outdoor temperatures) or the situations where the overheating occurs (stop and go).
Is the coolant level in the overflow tank.correct? Do you have to keep adding coolant? If so, there is a leak...... somewhere.
Is the coolant fresh/functional? Antifreeze (fresh) keeps water from freezing but it also raises the boiling temperature. The mixture in the engine coolant system optimally should be 50%.
Is there any coolant on the ground, visible under the car after you left it parked overnight?
Some folks with 1999 and prior Auroras find they are missing the rubber air deflector under the front fascia (bumper) which provides adequate air flow up and through the radiator to cool the coolant.
Or steam under the hood? Check in the dark with a flashlight when the engine is hot and running, especially around hoses, hose connections and the water pump. Don't reach in and get your hand chopped off!
Is the overflow tube between the radiator and the overflow tank blocked, not allowing the coolant in the overflow tank to replenish the radiator? Sometimes the coolant level in the overflow tank appears correct but the radiator is low on coolant! There may be some blockage.
Is your overflow tank cracked and leaking? Some have had this problem.
Do you smell antifreeze burning but get no leakage on the ground? This could indicate a head gasket leak.. You might find coolant in the motor oil.....discoloration and smell of the oil.
And you are right, a failing thermostat stuck in the closed or partially closed position could cause the overheating because the the engine is not getting enough cooler coolant from the radiator. It is one of the less expensive starting points if you come up blank with the more obvious stuff.
I have had a leaking radiator where the top radiator hose connects to the radiator which no one could find for 6 months until the system was pressure tested. I also had a slightly seeping/failing water pump which was discovered at the same time. Mechanic found these using the "in the dark with a flashlight" approach and a simple system pressure test.
Have your mechanic check this stuff before jumping in to any repairs. I am fortunate to have a long and positve relationship of 15 years with a private mechanic who actually diagnoses the problem from the symptoms, starting with the most obvious and cheapest stuff first.. He doesn't just start throwing my money up against the wall with replacement parts, hoping some of that money sticks and the problem is solved. He is not the cheapest, but I have never had a "bring back, it ain't fixed."
Good luck!
.
And if you are going as far as to replace thermostat, consider doing a flush and fill since you will lose much of the fluid anyway. To do it properly you will need to remove thermostat and run water through system until it is clear. Add flush and run without thermostat and I prefer to do this on hotter days since it gets radiator hotter allowing chemicals to work better.
Some say to never flush because it causes leaks. In truth these were likely impending failures that the antifreezes antileak properties were hiding. And if you have a weak water pump, it will likely show up as well because water does not lubricate as well as antifreeze. Weak heater cores will show up as well.
Also I've found that the crud created with Dexcool is rather stubborn and might take extra effort to remove from radiator. I talked with a radiator shop and they say they can get it out and it was only about $25 if I took the radiator to them. A very small price compared to a new one.
And don't forget hoses. Yours being an '01, you may have some life left in them if they are originals. Too often they get replaced with cheap hoses and I made such a mistake. It blew when it was one year old. My past experience on Olds and Pontiac was that V-8, non-serpentine belts and hoses were good for about 10 years. The OEM was of higher quality than base available. Belts were often DayCo and I suspect the hoses were too. So, either by OEM or find a parts place that has access to all models. Example, I found one that handles full DayCo line and moving one step up from OEM was a cogged belt. The next step up was a Top-Cog.
Remember, no belt will last if pulley alignment is wrong. I had an OEM belt that I changed at 120K because it was starting to crack.
You did not post mileage on vehicle. Most seem to love the vehicle, 95-99 especially, but hate repairs, so you will have to look at it as an investment if you wish to keep. And I'd look around for the info on bonding the radiator, etc. to ground to stop galvanic corrosion.
Does it matter?
Should I drain it and replace with DEX COOL?
Thanks
KPD
I brought this up with my experienced mechanic and he was aware of the issue.. He does not use Dex Cool.
You may want to Google Dex Cool for the details.
Does anyone have any advice before I start this project sometime next week?
It is a 1998 Olds Aurora w/ V8.
Thanks in advance,
Anthony
What you are attempting to do sounds more of a headache than what it is worth. If the compressor is actually engaging, just remove the electrical plug. If it is the bearing you could have just the bearing replaced, maybe. But because you say it has not been working you might be wasting money on bearing if compressor is bad.
The main question would be, "why was AC not working?" Was the problem because of blend doors or control head, or something to do with the freon circuit? That is, did the freon leak out, or possibly a blockage in system?
Still, in either case I would say it is best to change the pump and leave the wires disconnected at the compressor. Often you are required to buy a new accumulator at the same time as compressor to get long term warranty. Just make sure you put the proper amount of oil in system. Leave system sealed until you are ready to finish repair, then disconnect at accumulator and pump, flush lines, reconnect and then finish charging. Or you could get the flush out of the way before installing new pump and accumulator. I would also check the orifice tube while it is apart.
The bearing in the a/c compressor had a lot of play in it at the time but was still functional.
enet knows more than I do about this stuff. But it is not an easy repair the way these items are packed so close to the right fender well and down in there.
Regarding disconnecting the wire to the a/c compressor. Wouldn't that isolate the noise problem between the idler assembly and the compressor? Also, there is a button on the center console by all of the hvac controls that says AC. It is lighted when the a/c is operating automatically and can be pressed to shut off the a/c compressor when you don't want it cycling on and off.
Hope this helps!!!
When the car is hot and it is dark, and with the engine running, take a flashlight and see if you can locate exactly what the source of the steam is. If you are fortunate, you may have a leaky radiator, a bad thermostat, or a failing water pump issue. I had both the radiator and the water pump issues at the same time a year ago about now. I have a 1998 Autobahn with 111K.
The location you mentioned, about 12 inched behind the hood latch......
Well as you are facing the engine in the dark and using your flashlight, you might want to look over to your left (car's right side) under the radiator shroud to see if either the top radiator neck is the source due to a failing hose, a loose hose clamp, or a leak in the radiator at the top neck (common). The leak may be running across the top of the radiator to the center as you described, 12 inches behind the latch.
The water pump is up front too, but off to the right of center as you are facing the engine. Mine was still functioning but was seeping, and you could see steam from that as well as the wetness. By the way, how old is your thermostat? Is it functioning correctly or stuck intermittently? That is right there with the water pump.
Some guys are missing the rubber air dam under the front fascia. Since there is no grill on the car, this air dam is the only thing forcing cooler air up into the engine compartment and assisting the radiator in the cooling process.
Good luck. Let us know how you make out.
Les
Further, the metal fuel pump mounting ring on the top of the plastic gas tank was 80% gonzo, requiring a new tank (drop rear suspension). The repair guy showed me the old tank and pump, and the old fuel pump was essentially attached to virtually nothing.
The good news is that the pump assembly includes a new fuel gauge sender, so now the fuel gauge works properly. The better news is that the check engine light throwing a fuel evaporation code has been resolved with this fix, and the car will pass emissions. And the raw gas fumes I very recently started to get on a full tank, also gone.
Wife bugging me to get rid of the car.......
Apparently to her the dog's safety trumps my argument.
A couple of folks found a leak in the overflow tank.....cracked. Other things discussed. A faulty radiator cap.
Little overlooked things can cause big problems. I just hope you find a simpler and less expensive fix.
I
There are washable and easily removable seat covers, but they are only as good as the fit and effectiveness of the adjustment mechanisms, usually the expandable corners and draw strings. Cheapos......don't waste your time, money, or patience on them. They are as ineffective as the blankets.
Get your dog's nails shortened by a professional groomer. Then keep them short and blunt. You should not be able to hear your dog walking on a hard floor around the house. If the groomer cannot get them short enough because of the location of the nail quick (from being too long), have the vet put the dog out and shorten them, very short. Then keep them short. We do our dogs' nails at least once a week. We use a Dremmel tool and grind them. Fast. Accurate. And good for keeping the edges blunt. If you think all of this is a lot of wasted money, you may find that your dog's natural gait has been altered by the longer nails, and this will show up later while you are writing checks at the vet's office when the dog's hips and other leg joints start acting up due to stress caused by the unnatural gait, even if it is ever so slight and not noticeable to the normal person. Your floors and rugs and couches will last a lot longer and look newer to boot.
Wal-Mart and Target and similar discount places sell collapsible fabric (washable/wipeable) dog crates that fold up and fit in a bag. These can be far less expensive than hitting a pet supply store that charges 2 or 3 times more for essentially the same thing. Some collapsible dog crates zipper on the end for ingress and egress. Some also zipper on the side. And some zipper on top as well. The collapsible dog crate would keep the dog's nails and slobber in check. It is also the safest way to travel with your dog in your car. I figured I didn't need 200 pounds of dogs flying around the inside of the car if I hit something or something hit me. Saves on vet bills too because dog injuries are reduced in the event of a collision. Finally, you can fit these dog crates in the back seat collapsed and then open them up. There isn't a lot of width and height clearance in the back of the Aurora for the non-collapsible dog crates.
One sure-fire method is to pressurize the system and then remove the spark plugs while the system is under pressure, and look for drops of coolant on the plugs, or using a scope, inside the cylinder.
It's a LOT of miles----the engine, and the car, owe you nothing at this point.
The control person can use 'to die for" food to distract the pup while the other is working on the nails. Start out by doing only one or two nails each day for a few weeks. Use a muzzle initially or until the pup reaches the conclusion that resistance and tantrums don't work.
Eventually it can become a one person job and some dogs go from going ballistic nail trimming time to taking a nap during the process.
Most have stripped them out when removing. It sounds like you got lucky and maybe would not have had the problem if you used anti-seize and some engines require new head bolts when assemblying.
Pardon me for being longwinded but here is how I saved over $500 and you can do it too. You will need to gain access to the rotating contact part of the switch that is hidden under the steering wheel covers but you will not have to remove the switch in order to clean it. You will need to buy a can of electrical contact cleaner and a can of compressed air like you use for keyboards. Both can be had at Radio Shack and both come with the red extension tube that fits the spray nozzle. First move the seat all the way back, then disconnect the battery, remove the sound deadeners, remove the two 10mm bolts at bottom of knee bolster, use your fingertips to pry the sentinel/dimmer assembly and trunk/fuel door release assembly from dash (leave harnesses connected and let dangle) to expose the remaining two 10mm bolts securing knee bolster, remove knee bolster, remove 10 amp fuse for Air Bag, disconnect SIR (air bag) yellow connector at lower left corner behind ins panel, tilt wheel up, use 3/16 or 5mm nutdriver to remove 3 screws securing steering wheel top cover (note that 1 screw is accessed thru the opening for the tilt lever while the other 2 are located on either side of the column closest to the lense/guages), remove 3 more of the same small tapping screws securing the lower steering wheel cover to column, remove black ring of text around ignition lock by pulling straight out, upper and lower covers can now be unsnapped and removed. With your left ear against the mirror control looking just forward of where the stalk goes to the column, you will see 5 tiny holes in a semi-circular pattern. When turning the headlamp switch you can see the contacts moving from hole to hole. Spray contact cleaner in the holes and immediately follow up with the compressed air can to flush out the contact cleaner. Move the headlamp switch rapidly thru all the detents and repeat several times with the contact cleaner followed by several bursts of compressed air to flush out the excess cleaner and dry. When finished, wait 30 minutes to make sure contacts are thoroughly dry then reconnect battery and test. Hopefully all is well and like me you just saved some major $
casing they put around the light lever, there are contacts that get caked with grease and dirt. If you take some contact cleaner and a couple long q-tips
you can clean these contacts off. Some times it helps to remove a few of the plastic casings that go around the steering wheel and underneath, but it is not always necessary. Typically you can just pull back the rubber housing on the light lever. Spray a good amount of contact cleaner on the tabs and that some times is enough. I typically clean them up with q-tips as well. You can also then take a can of air spray and blow that in there to clean up any debris. I have a feeling your switch was never bad from the get go. Dont fear the Reeper and dont give into the reeper as well.
While pulling shifter down into neutral or reverse. If this doesnt work your cable to the shifter might have come undone or it broke.
Hope this helps.
Les Young
'97 black Aurora
I have the same issue with my 95. I lubed the cable under the hood and it helped some, it still is hard sometimes. Do not try to force by trying to move to reverse without button pressed in. I found if you put very firm pressure on the release button while you depress on the brake peddle and hold sometimes for a short time, all of the sudden it should release.
Please advise it this works. My wife sometimes had to use two hands to put enough pressure, but it has always released. You might first try the very firm pressure on the button before you try lubing and hold for up to a minute.
Don