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They found a lot of gunk build up around the shifter, under the rubber cap, cleaned it out and for now it is operating properly. They tell me that if it fails again, will have to go to new shifter linkage at a cost of $350. Hope the cleaning solved it for a while. Again thanks to all of you for suggestions.
The question I have is why am I going through something that should last almost the life of my car. The rest of the front end appears to be in good shape, I had the outer tie rod ends replaced at 108K, and this car drives great. The car is garaged or stored indoors so I don't think weather is a factor.
Any help you might provide would be greatly appreciated.
Michael
ps I have owned this car since new in Sept 99
Ken
The other big things were the catalytic converter, and the egr valve. egr valve is $200 in store, $80 on ebay. dont bother replacing the converter unless you need it for emissions...pay a cheap mechanic $50 to cut it out and put a straight pipe in its place.
We are down to one trouble code now...still workin on that one. Good luck!
-K
Unfortunately they didnt make a valve for this, so youll have to improvise. My greatest suggestion to anyone is this: if its still running reasonably well, sell it for what you can and buy something japanese.
Most mechanics wont charge you for a few printouts if you know exactly what you want
Also, it is against the law to own a vehicle without converter and a $10,000 fine to remove one.
Glad to hear you still have yours. When I get settled with what I bought, I think I'll locate another one, a classic, just as a nice cruising vehicle.
I have taken it to a mechanic. I had the fuel lines blown out, the plugs changed.
The fuel system is entirely new so ive ruled that out. the problem he says is that the plugs are flooded with gas which doesnt help . the alternatoer has been checked and the starter has also.
I really need help im a struggling college student and i would like to know if i should give up hope.
If that all seems OK, you need to get a fuel pressure tester, some parts shops loan them. It just screws onto the port on the fuel rail. Make sure pressure is not bleeding down on its own and check maximum pressure as well. This would be the first suspected area since it sounds like all plugs are getting wet.
If it is just one, possibly an injector is stuck open. You should not have power to any injectors if engine is not turning over.
Also because of the engine change, be suspicious of miswiring, wire damage, or production changes.
Also I found that the main computer replacements that are factory replacements have major problems. If you use dealer, and they replace with a factory rebuild and they don't work, they do not charge to put in another one.
Be causious as the dealer went through 4 rebuilds that said the transmission was bad, when in fact it was defective rebuild computers. Try to find someone in the club that can recommend dealer or mechanic familar with them in your area.
Good luck,
Don
Are you getting a check engine? Check for codes just in case one has been set. That ABS conrol module was one that was connected to failure due to missing diodes from cooling fan circuits. The fix was a jumper harness added near the fans.
After the change, the rail blocks access to some bolts and likely the only way to properly torque the manifold bolts is with a device such as a crows foot requiring the recalculation of the proper setting for the torque wrench.
There are two thick platic gaskets with orings in them under the manifold. Not enough torque and it could easily leak. Too much and you might crack the manifold, even internally where you would not see it. Last known price for that special manifold was about $450.
Backing up a moment, you have to move the plug wires out of the way. Hopefully you had GM wires and marked as to which plug they went to. As I recall, it was not necessary to remove the coil pack assembly, but that also needs to be done with care when done.
Coolant flows through a portion of the throttle body, so it is either disconnect everything from the throttle body and remove attached to manifold or disconnect it from manifold. Also there are several vacuum hoses involved that must be put back properly.
At this point, if you wish not to disassemble again to insure all is proper, I'd start with plug wires and make sure they are properly connected. You might remove them from plugs and check down in the well to make sure something foreign is not present.
Make sure all hoses are properly connected.
See if you can spot any leaks, fuel, coolant or vacuum.
Make sure the antibackfire valve is fully closed, it is opposite end of throttle body.
Make sure wiring to injectors is properly connected and not damaged. It is possible that the lower orings on injector may be leaking vacuum. If it were the upper, you'd see fuel. And of course check to make sure TPS, mass airflow, etc. are reconnected.
This very much sounds like something created during the repair since it was not present prior to.
Good luck.
9 Oldsmobile Mechanics Are Online. Ask a Question, Get an Answer ASAP.
http://Oldsmobile.JustAnswer.com/Aurora/
You may want to try the link noted; worked great for me.
Whoever told you that does not know Auroras. Temp gauge over 200 is almost universal.
There is no "cooling fan switch" as such. The fans are controlled by the Engine Control Module (ECM) and programmed to come on low speed at 227 degrees or with AC turned on or coolant level low.
Hope this helps
Les Young
Transmission shop swapped out the tranny, but didn't replace the mounts. Found one for the rear (transmission side), but need top, passenger, motor mount.
Dealers don't carry & no luck after market.
Boneyard (statewide search) nothing doing....
Craigslist/Ebay, nada... help.
Thanks. Russ
First, the first generation Aurora classics have the delay feature which leaves the headlights on after you remove the keys from the ignition, exit the car, and close the door. I can't recall if the delay is just for for the headlights or for the interior lights as well. The adjustable "wheel" is to the left of the steering collumn and can easily be "readjusted" by accident.
Second idea, I also think the classic has the run down feature. This willl turn off the overhead front center map lights if they were turned on and not turned off, saving us from a dead battery. If that is the case with you, the map lights would stay a very long time before they turn themselves off, more than 5 minutes. Do your map lights come on and stay on when you first start up the car? If so, your map lights may be "on."
Let us know what you find.
Thanks.
Black being rich, check FPR, known to go bad quite often. Do you have any codes set?
If it is oil or the smell of antifreeze you have big problem. In case you don't know, these engines have a very low oil pressure when warmed up. Are you using the proper viscosity of oil? 10W30 is the only approved weight.
If i gentle give it gas sometimes it will just run on its own like its suppose to. When its sputtering if i pump the gas pedal it sorts goes after a while. i replaced the fuel filter and the air filer, put a fuel cleaner through my system but still nothing. the car will idle fine for a while the by itself rev and then shuts off.
Has anyone had these issue or can anyone help please. i just want to fix this once and get it over with.
Paul
Make sure you properly torque the manifold back because you could end up with a crack and if it is internal you won't be able to see it. I used oven cleaner to break down the crud and solvents to help remove it. Just make sure you rotate to get all the water out after flushing it. I put new gaskets in while it was apart.
I think there is a bleed procedure to make sure you get all the air out of the system. It has been awhile for me.
I no longer remember the exact logic of the relays.
If the fans come on with the AC pump, it probably is not the low speed relay. The box, it is on the right side. Also in there are a number of fuses you might want to check. The signal for pulling the relays comes from the computer I think. They should kick into high speed around 230 as I recall. And around 235 is where you should get 4 cylinder mode as I recall. Alldata has this information.
If you are running an aftermarket thermostat, it may be partially blocking flow. The correct thermostat is like 192 or more. Going to a cooler thermostat will not help an overheat problem.
Les Young
Also sensors such as crankshaft and camshaft position sensors. Maybe the computer. Do you get a check engine just before it dies?
Not likely the converter if it waits till it gets heated up. (expensive)
I'm not sure what happens if the oil pressure sensor suddenly detects a loss of pressure. The sensor may have gone bad acting like you lost pressure. It would make sense that it would shut down immediately in such a case to protect the engine.