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Oldsmobile Aurora Maintenance & Repair

18283858788

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    bgadamsbgadams Member Posts: 9
    Thanks for all the advice, I was able to get it to release, and took it to the dealer.
    They found a lot of gunk build up around the shifter, under the rubber cap, cleaned it out and for now it is operating properly. They tell me that if it fails again, will have to go to new shifter linkage at a cost of $350. Hope the cleaning solved it for a while. Again thanks to all of you for suggestions.
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    michaels99michaels99 Member Posts: 1
    Hello from a new member. I have a 99 that is constantly going through front wheel bearings. I cooked the front brakes a few years back driving in the mountains and was not terribly surprised that that my bearings needed to be replaced soon after. Since that time, at 93K miles, I have redone the right side at 108K and just recently at 118K. My mechanic did the first two and I just did the last.

    The question I have is why am I going through something that should last almost the life of my car. The rest of the front end appears to be in good shape, I had the outer tie rod ends replaced at 108K, and this car drives great. The car is garaged or stored indoors so I don't think weather is a factor.

    Any help you might provide would be greatly appreciated.

    Michael

    ps I have owned this car since new in Sept 99
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    pscheidpscheid Member Posts: 190
    My 1998 just passed 113K miles. Original bearings, suspension, ignition, and exhaust. Your problem sounds weird. Wish I had some advice.
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    pscheidpscheid Member Posts: 190
    You may want to do a search here in the maintenance and repair section on wheel bearings. Lots of discussion and it may give you some hints.
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    cadillacraigcadillacraig Member Posts: 18
    I did manage to bypass some stuff, and varified the starter to function. I replaced the neutral safety module and contemplateing replacing the ignition module.I now am leaning towards a security issue. The security light flashes when the key is on and doesnt stop. I have cleaned the key and chip and of course all the fuses and breakers. Please help. I do apreciate all of the Olds Aurora mechanics who take time to help others for Free! Thank You All. Cadillacraig
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    kenharwkenharw Member Posts: 3
    Wow! Something is wrong. I replaced mine last summer at 196,000 miles. 70,000 of those miles were towed miles behind a motor home. Lots of side loading occurring during towing. The replacement bearings you had installed must have been flawed.

    Ken
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    e_net_ridere_net_rider Member Posts: 1,380
    99K might be a bit early, but it does seem I read somewhere that the wheel bearings would go a bit early. As to needing that soon again, I'd say your mechanic used cheap bearings. I ordered the one I needed from Rock Auto and it lasted far longer. I ran across some terribly cheap bearings in idler pulleys at Autozone and Discount Auto. The seal was the problem I spotted easily and i returned them getting better ones at NAPA. There was actually a gap between the hub of the bearing and the seal. Consequently any dirt or moisture could enter bearing and be spun centrifugally into it. It is little wonder they only had a 30 day guarantee.
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    vettefan77vettefan77 Member Posts: 3
    I owned one of these (a '96), and now my girlfriend does as well. The popping sound is a backfire out of the intake. The most notorius cause for this is the crankshaft position sensor, since it reports to the computer vital ignition information. its $40 in the parts store, $20 on ebay. I just fixed hers yesterday, and it took about 30-40 minutes.

    The other big things were the catalytic converter, and the egr valve. egr valve is $200 in store, $80 on ebay. dont bother replacing the converter unless you need it for emissions...pay a cheap mechanic $50 to cut it out and put a straight pipe in its place.

    We are down to one trouble code now...still workin on that one. Good luck! ;)

    -K
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    vettefan77vettefan77 Member Posts: 3
    @ cwiley1 - welcome to it brother :). Might check your coolant temperature sensor - its a $10 part on ebay. I read somewhere that it reports temperature info to the computer, and tells the fan when to turn on and off. if the fan works fine, only thing you can is find the highest coolant line near your throttle body, unbolt it, and let the car run until coolant trickles out. this will hopefully get any air in the system out of the system. :cry:

    Unfortunately they didnt make a valve for this, so youll have to improvise. My greatest suggestion to anyone is this: if its still running reasonably well, sell it for what you can and buy something japanese. ;)
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    vettefan77vettefan77 Member Posts: 3
    @ johnny34 - unfortunately, NASA didnt include a decent repair manual for these things ;)....best repair info youre going to get is from Mitchell OnDemand.

    Most mechanics wont charge you for a few printouts if you know exactly what you want
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    e_net_ridere_net_rider Member Posts: 1,380
    Although there are a varying number of O2 sensors on these 4.0, all that I've seen diagrams for have one that is post catalytic converter and that would screw up what the computer reads because it compares the output of that last sensor to what is read upstream by other sensors.
    Also, it is against the law to own a vehicle without converter and a $10,000 fine to remove one.
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    e_net_ridere_net_rider Member Posts: 1,380
    It won't hurt to check FPR since it is so easy to do, but I suspect he has an issue with the aftermarket wires that may have caused a problem with a coil. Be careful to just snug the screws that hold it in place. Excess tightness might also crack a coil.
    Glad to hear you still have yours. When I get settled with what I bought, I think I'll locate another one, a classic, just as a nice cruising vehicle.
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    roc6roc6 Member Posts: 5
    I have a 95 Aroura. I replaced the engine and ive been having alot of issues. 1. while driving during the summer the car would just shut down while it in idle ( at a traffic light etc). 2. now that is winter it takes a long time to start( i have to rapidly press the gas pedal in order to start). When it does start there is smoke that cpmes out of the tail pipe and there is a slight smell of fuel. (This has only happened since the winter has come).

    I have taken it to a mechanic. I had the fuel lines blown out, the plugs changed.
    The fuel system is entirely new so ive ruled that out. the problem he says is that the plugs are flooded with gas which doesnt help . the alternatoer has been checked and the starter has also.

    I really need help im a struggling college student and i would like to know if i should give up hope.
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    e_net_ridere_net_rider Member Posts: 1,380
    That sounds like a definite case of FPR, fuel pressure regulator. Check for fuel at vacuum hose connection. If present, replace. Remove FPR and look for small oring that is on the tube projecting from the underside. Also check to make sure it did not stick down in the housing, and also make sure you did not accidentally end up with two because the FPR was replaced before without removing the old oring.
    If that all seems OK, you need to get a fuel pressure tester, some parts shops loan them. It just screws onto the port on the fuel rail. Make sure pressure is not bleeding down on its own and check maximum pressure as well. This would be the first suspected area since it sounds like all plugs are getting wet.
    If it is just one, possibly an injector is stuck open. You should not have power to any injectors if engine is not turning over.
    Also because of the engine change, be suspicious of miswiring, wire damage, or production changes.
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    kingdomtrainkingdomtrain Member Posts: 1
    All 3 lights on my "95 Aur. Brake system went out and the traction control light on the dash is on. Could it poss. be a fuse or switch on the pedal?
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    donnapacadonnapaca Member Posts: 26
    These have a lot of computers-my ABS computer went out and it cost $750 to replace. You need someone experienced with the Aurora as they have a lot more computers that a normal car. I would search your local dealers for a dealer that has mechanics that work on the Aurora. In my case I found a Olds, GMC dealer which has gone on to add honda since olds went out of business. They still have experienced aurora mechanic. I tried using non dealer mechanic that was not familar with the aurora and spent a lot of money while he was trying to figure it out.
    Also I found that the main computer replacements that are factory replacements have major problems. If you use dealer, and they replace with a factory rebuild and they don't work, they do not charge to put in another one.
    Be causious as the dealer went through 4 rebuilds that said the transmission was bad, when in fact it was defective rebuild computers. Try to find someone in the club that can recommend dealer or mechanic familar with them in your area.
    Good luck,
    Don
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    txshadow12txshadow12 Member Posts: 10
    Experienced similar electrical/computer module problems; trustworthy dealer with outstanding repair facility solved all of my needs. Where are you located? We may be able to recommend someone to whom you may go to make certain of the diagnosis and solve your problem.
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    e_net_ridere_net_rider Member Posts: 1,380
    Yes it can. Also check the control center under the hood, right front. Also a couple of fuse blocks under rear seat.
    Are you getting a check engine? Check for codes just in case one has been set. That ABS conrol module was one that was connected to failure due to missing diodes from cooling fan circuits. The fix was a jumper harness added near the fans.
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    roc6roc6 Member Posts: 5
    . I have a 95 Olds Aroura. I lost the keys to my car. luckly i was able to get a locksmith to make a key but i only make the one to start the car. The one for the door i didnt get made. went to open my door and he alarm went of. I was able to get the car started and put it in gear which shut the alarm off. Is there anyway to bypass the alarm system without making the other key
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    e_net_ridere_net_rider Member Posts: 1,380
    The key should be the same unless someone has done some altering of the sytem. Does your remote work?
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    loraron513loraron513 Member Posts: 1
    I also have same problem. Was there a reply or fix that I don't see posted? Thanks.
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    mommieof05mommieof05 Member Posts: 2
    I have an 01 aurora first it wouldnt start so I got a new starter and had to replace my sensors. Now my car runs really rough and the check eng light keeps flashing and a smell of something burning comes from the vents its crazy I just put all this money into it and now another problem.Can someone please help what could be my problem?
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    e_net_ridere_net_rider Member Posts: 1,380
    If you have the 4.0 V8, to change starter, the intake manifold is removed. This can be problematic if not done exactly as needed. And if you have the stainless fuel rail from the recall it gets more difficult. Before that replacement you could remove the manifold, injectors, and rail as one assembly.
    After the change, the rail blocks access to some bolts and likely the only way to properly torque the manifold bolts is with a device such as a crows foot requiring the recalculation of the proper setting for the torque wrench.
    There are two thick platic gaskets with orings in them under the manifold. Not enough torque and it could easily leak. Too much and you might crack the manifold, even internally where you would not see it. Last known price for that special manifold was about $450.

    Backing up a moment, you have to move the plug wires out of the way. Hopefully you had GM wires and marked as to which plug they went to. As I recall, it was not necessary to remove the coil pack assembly, but that also needs to be done with care when done.
    Coolant flows through a portion of the throttle body, so it is either disconnect everything from the throttle body and remove attached to manifold or disconnect it from manifold. Also there are several vacuum hoses involved that must be put back properly.
    At this point, if you wish not to disassemble again to insure all is proper, I'd start with plug wires and make sure they are properly connected. You might remove them from plugs and check down in the well to make sure something foreign is not present.
    Make sure all hoses are properly connected.
    See if you can spot any leaks, fuel, coolant or vacuum.
    Make sure the antibackfire valve is fully closed, it is opposite end of throttle body.
    Make sure wiring to injectors is properly connected and not damaged. It is possible that the lower orings on injector may be leaking vacuum. If it were the upper, you'd see fuel. And of course check to make sure TPS, mass airflow, etc. are reconnected.
    This very much sounds like something created during the repair since it was not present prior to.
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    dmoor3dmoor3 Member Posts: 1
    i have a 96 with 124000 miles ive been having problems with when it startyed getting cold the fuel pump went out so i changed it and the filter then i drove it home it ran strong and i tryed to start it and it wouldnt start till it warmed up outside then it was starting really rough and was throwing smoke out the tailpipe and when it warms up it loses oil pressure i really like the car but i dont know if i should fix it junk it or what wrong to fix????
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    txshadow12txshadow12 Member Posts: 10
    You may want to have a repair shop check exhaust for evidence of moisture. With the mileage point you noted (124,000) it's fairly common to be confronted with a leaking head gasket. A bad head gasket may result in the symptoms you describe. Note: Replacing a head gasket (if I remember correctly) is risky business. When replacing the gasket and machined heads, it's often impossible to reach the prescribed torque for each bolt surrounding a given cylinder. What happens? The threaded bolt holes get stripped and your in deep trouble. Solution: Forget the attempt to make the repair and instead get a rebuilt engine or pull one from a junked auto. Been there; done that.
    Good luck.
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    keith_kdeekeith_kdee Member Posts: 1
    I have a 95 aurora. this lady runs too. But i have a concern. My temp runs up their in the 200 or more %. But it doesn't over heat. I was looking at the fans and saw that they are not coming on . I was told to check the cooling fan switch. just dont know where its located. can some one tell me please. thanks
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    txshadow12txshadow12 Member Posts: 10
    Ask an Aurora Mechanic
    9 Oldsmobile Mechanics Are Online. Ask a Question, Get an Answer ASAP.
    http://Oldsmobile.JustAnswer.com/Aurora/

    You may want to try the link noted; worked great for me.
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    blk97aurorablk97aurora Member Posts: 573
    Keith,

    Whoever told you that does not know Auroras. Temp gauge over 200 is almost universal.

    There is no "cooling fan switch" as such. The fans are controlled by the Engine Control Module (ECM) and programmed to come on low speed at 227 degrees or with AC turned on or coolant level low.

    Hope this helps

    Les Young
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    hockeydoofhockeydoof Member Posts: 2
    Hey Gang,

    Transmission shop swapped out the tranny, but didn't replace the mounts. Found one for the rear (transmission side), but need top, passenger, motor mount.

    Dealers don't carry & no luck after market.

    Boneyard (statewide search) nothing doing....

    Craigslist/Ebay, nada... help.

    :o)

    Thanks. Russ
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    e_net_ridere_net_rider Member Posts: 1,380
    GM Direct had them a while back, but they were pricey.
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    jagir03jagir03 Member Posts: 17
    New problem with my Aurora. The interior lights stay on while the car is being driven and stay on for long time after the car is turned off and keys removed from ignition. Has anyone come cross the same problem and found the fix. Thanks in advance
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    pscheidpscheid Member Posts: 190
    What is a long time? In minutes. Year of vehicle? Do you have your owner's manual?

    First, the first generation Aurora classics have the delay feature which leaves the headlights on after you remove the keys from the ignition, exit the car, and close the door. I can't recall if the delay is just for for the headlights or for the interior lights as well. The adjustable "wheel" is to the left of the steering collumn and can easily be "readjusted" by accident.

    Second idea, I also think the classic has the run down feature. This willl turn off the overhead front center map lights if they were turned on and not turned off, saving us from a dead battery. If that is the case with you, the map lights would stay a very long time before they turn themselves off, more than 5 minutes. Do your map lights come on and stay on when you first start up the car? If so, your map lights may be "on."

    Let us know what you find.

    Thanks.
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    e_net_ridere_net_rider Member Posts: 1,380
    What does the smoke smell like?
    Black being rich, check FPR, known to go bad quite often. Do you have any codes set?
    If it is oil or the smell of antifreeze you have big problem. In case you don't know, these engines have a very low oil pressure when warmed up. Are you using the proper viscosity of oil? 10W30 is the only approved weight.
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    roc6roc6 Member Posts: 5
    I recently had some issues with my Aroura I fixed those now there are new ones. I notice that when i give the car gas it sputters, and wont go. the rpm is up but its like i have no power.
    If i gentle give it gas sometimes it will just run on its own like its suppose to. When its sputtering if i pump the gas pedal it sorts goes after a while. i replaced the fuel filter and the air filer, put a fuel cleaner through my system but still nothing. the car will idle fine for a while the by itself rev and then shuts off.
    Has anyone had these issue or can anyone help please. i just want to fix this once and get it over with.
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    roc6roc6 Member Posts: 5
    Car also backfires when being driven only when sputtering occcurs
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    tootertatertootertater Member Posts: 26
    have you changed the mass air flow valve or sencor? My '96 aurora did something simular and that was the problem.
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    tootertatertootertater Member Posts: 26
    edited April 2010
    I have a '96 aurora 8 cylinder. As it gets hot outside so does my car. I drove my car around and when temp gauge almost reached 225 it went dead. As in DEAD.I waited until it cooled down(about 2 hours) and started her up and drove home. We changed thermostat with one from dealer($51). Started her up and fans kicked in before reaching 200. Today i had to drive thru stop and go traffic and noticed temp once again pushing 225. about a mile from home i keep going. guess what?? It DIED on me at 10 pm. It hasn't been long that i replaced radiator and intake values. I have been told maybe antifreeze but just changed it thermostat plugs oil, oil filter.I dont seem to have the rubber air dam others on here are talking about. where to purchase? Water pump? sensor?please help i can't get stranded with kids. and most mechanics will cheat a woman.oh! is the car suppose to cut off at certain temp to stop further damage? at what temp should fans kick in? my fans work but not that I see until around a little over 200.
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    ambercococleoambercococleo Member Posts: 9
    as soon as you notice the temp rising pull over to a safe spot right away and let the engine cool down for at least an hour before even attempting to put in antifreeze or water in the radiator. These cars will cut off if the temperature gets too high and won't come back on until it goes down to a certain level. But, having said that and gone through what we did, don't drive it hot again. Our 2001 overheated once and that was all it took to warp the head. We ended up driving with gallon jugs of water with us at all times. It only lasted for 3 months before the car's engine blew completely. We were told that this is a huge problem for all Oldsmobile especially cadillac engines.
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    roc6roc6 Member Posts: 5
    yes i have replaced the mass air flow
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    kansaspaulkansaspaul Member Posts: 1
    I have a 95 Olds Aurora that has a vacuum leak at the "flapper valve" in the intake manifold. The mechanic who did a smoke test on the car has told me that the manifold has to be replaced. I saw in an earlier posting that the valve can be replaced. When I called the dealer, they had no idea what I was talking about. Does anyone have any information regarding the replacement of this valve, and where I can get one? I can't afford $450 for a new manifold (that's me installing it, the mechanic quoted a repair of $725). Any help would be greatly appreciated.

    Paul
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    e_net_ridere_net_rider Member Posts: 1,380
    The flapper valver, anti-backfire valve, had been available. It may be the same valve as on some other engines. I'm not sure that you can remove it without removing the manifold. It takes a partial turn to remove it and there may be buildup on the inside making it difficult to pull out even after the turn. There are two place it could be leaking, the big oring around it and the rubber seal under the flapper. On mine, that came loose and doubled over not allowing it to completely close. I glued it back in place.
    Make sure you properly torque the manifold back because you could end up with a crack and if it is internal you won't be able to see it. I used oven cleaner to break down the crud and solvents to help remove it. Just make sure you rotate to get all the water out after flushing it. I put new gaskets in while it was apart.
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    e_net_ridere_net_rider Member Posts: 1,380
    The cooling fans are multi-stage. That is they come on slow first and with the AC. The speed is much faster when it gets too hot and the engine should go into 4 cylinder mode.
    I think there is a bleed procedure to make sure you get all the air out of the system. It has been awhile for me.
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    tootertatertootertater Member Posts: 26
    I watched my temp gauge and from what everyone here says my fans should kick on at 227 mine don't. I sit and let my car cool down for over a hour,but when checking the coolant& water it is full.I had a gentleman look at it and he says that to change relay switch which is located on left hand side in black under hood.He told me that my fans were not comming on when needed, that with a 180 factory thermostat (and also 2 from parts store) the fan should kick in around 200 degrees. mecanic said if my relays are bad and it doesn't kick fans on then my car knows this it cuts off to prevent further damage.
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    tootertatertootertater Member Posts: 26
    They are called radiator fan control relay switch. They (2 of them) are located under hood left side in a black box. They look like square fuses. I am having mine replaced tomorrow . They run about $12 - $17 apiece but you got to start with little things first. I'll let you Know how it goes. oh-- Forgot There is also a small fuse in your regular fuse box that needs to be checked also. My large fuse box is under back seat with battery. This fuse lets it all work. Like a headlight fuse. See ya.
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    e_net_ridere_net_rider Member Posts: 1,380
    You need a circuit diagram to troubleshoot, available at alldata.com.
    I no longer remember the exact logic of the relays.
    If the fans come on with the AC pump, it probably is not the low speed relay. The box, it is on the right side. Also in there are a number of fuses you might want to check. The signal for pulling the relays comes from the computer I think. They should kick into high speed around 230 as I recall. And around 235 is where you should get 4 cylinder mode as I recall. Alldata has this information.
    If you are running an aftermarket thermostat, it may be partially blocking flow. The correct thermostat is like 192 or more. Going to a cooler thermostat will not help an overheat problem.
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    blk97aurorablk97aurora Member Posts: 573
    227 degress is correct; 200 is not. Two things that should turn the fans on at low speed other than high temperature: 1) AC on and/or 2) low coolant, which can be simulated by disconnecting the electrical connector at the bottom of the surge tank.

    Les Young
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    tootertatertootertater Member Posts: 26
    well took her (96 aurora 8 cyl) in to shop. every time I drive her and It hits 225 it goes dead. Mechanic at shop says my water pump wasn't circulating as should. did a Head test come back negative.(YA) Mechanic called says my water pump looks practically new. This was checked out because my fans is not coming on after changing 2 relays and coolant temp sensor. he said my other problem with it going dead is separate issue. He says my catalystic converter is probably stopped up. He is still checking it. could it be something else?
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    e_net_ridere_net_rider Member Posts: 1,380
    It could be a number of things that when they get hot they fail. Coils often act this way, but not likely since you would only lose one and run rough. Maybe the control unit under the coils, expensive.
    Also sensors such as crankshaft and camshaft position sensors. Maybe the computer. Do you get a check engine just before it dies?
    Not likely the converter if it waits till it gets heated up. (expensive)
    I'm not sure what happens if the oil pressure sensor suddenly detects a loss of pressure. The sensor may have gone bad acting like you lost pressure. It would make sense that it would shut down immediately in such a case to protect the engine.
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    tootertatertootertater Member Posts: 26
    I kind of get a heavy feeling when pushing the gas then it sputters I pull over and my dash sort of light up like when you first put key in ignition to crank it. My DIC says "low oil pressure". This only happens when my car runs in the 225+ temp. Thats what has us stumped. Some days I drive it and temp only reaches 200 and all is fine reach 225+ and it sputters and goes dead.I am going thru these message boards with a fine tooth comb and writing down anything close to my problem. Most keep coming back to fuel regulators. I know I have changed in the past 1-2 years the idle air control value and pulley, serpinetine belt ,water pump and belt, oil pressure switch or sensor, worked on intake manifold and seals ,new radiator ,thermostat, radiator cap, fuel rail ,both fan relays ,coolant temp sensor.
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    tootertatertootertater Member Posts: 26
    well guys its still in shop and recieved call saying that my mecanic has called 2 dealers and went online for my problem. They are all telling him either head gasket or head problems even if only slight is my problem. Does not show up in testing, no liguid on plugs no leaks, no water out of tail pipe etc... He wants to wire a free standing switch to flip my coolant fans on when my temp reaches 200 line. He says eveyone agrees with him that if this keeps my motor cooled off and it doent ride up with this I can drive my car for a longer period. If I pull heads its going to cost over 1000 $ just in labor and with no visual on this maybe not problem.
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