By accessing this website, you acknowledge that Edmunds and its third party business partners may use cookies, pixels, and similar technologies to collect information about you and your interactions with the website as described in our
Privacy Statement, and you agree that your use of the website is subject to our
Visitor Agreement.
Comments
It has a problem and ALLDATA or my manuals don't identify its location.
#2838 of 3177 Electrical Issues i think by anita3 Aug 05, 2005 (3:40 pm)
Bookmark | Reply | E-mail Msg
Hello.. first I want to thank you guys for helping me with my "no power issue " i had a few months back with my 98 Aurora... turned out to be... ground wires loose and corroded .. ughh lol Now on to bigger problems lol Today, I open car door.. door chimes automatically went off for no reason.... about 9 times....then while sitting in the car( key not in the ignition yet) the door chimes ding again but this time i hear what sounds like a shorting out sound....thought it was the dash because of the heat.. so hurriedly put the car on and a/c... that shorting out sound continuing....at that point didnt notice any warning lights etc... Car behind me goin down the road tells me that my lights in the back are flashing... so i pull over... yup sure are everytime i hear that shorting out sound the lights are flashing... Make it home... take key out ... lights still flashing and door chime is still dinging... I had to un plug battery now because would run my battery out.. Any suggestions or idea's as to what the problem is ???? ANY HELP WOULD B APPRECIATED
thanks.. Nete
Replies to this message:
• hammen2 (Aug 06, 2005 6:12 am)
• rburson (Aug 06, 2005 3:35 pm)
• hammen2 (Aug 06, 2005 6:13 pm)
• anita3 (Aug 11, 2005 5:02 am) and 10 more...
Hope this helps
1995 Oldsmobile Aurora Base Recall ID from NHTSA: 04V110000
Recall Date: 03/04/2004
Component: FUEL SYSTEM, GASOLINE:DELIVERY:HOSES, LINES/PIPING, AND FITTINGS
Potential Units Affected: 483477
Summary: SOME PASSENGER VEHICLES EQUIPPED WITH 4.0L V8 ENGINES HAVE A CONDITION IN WHICH THE NYLON TUBING USED IN THE FUEL RAIL CONSTRUCTION MAY DEGRADE AND CRACK. ADDITIONALLY, THE 1995 MODEL YEAR USES A UNIQUE UNDERHOOD FUEL RETURN LINE THAT MAY CRACK. CRACKING OF THE FUEL RAIL OR RETURN LINE TUBING CAN RESULT IN A FUEL LEAK INTO THE ENGINE COMPARTMENT.
Defect Consequence: FUEL LEAKAGE, IN THE PRESENCE OF AN IGNITION SOURCE, COULD RESULT IN A FIRE.
Remedy: DEALERS WILL INSPECT AND, IF NECESSARY, REPLACE THE ENGINE FUEL RAIL WITH A NEW STAINLESS STEEL FUEL RAIL. DEALERS WILL ALSO INSTALL A REVISED CHASSIS FUEL RETURN LINE. THE RECALL BEGAN ON JUNE 2, 2004, FOR 1996-1997 OLDSMOBILE AURORA VEHICLES. OWNERS OF 1995 CADILLACS AND 1996-1997 OLDSMOBILE AURORA WERE SENT LETTERS ON AUGUST 6, 2004. ADDITIONAL LETTERS TO OWNERS WILL BE FORTHCOMING. OWNERS SHOULD CONTACT OLDSMOBILE AT 1-800-630-6537.
There is a CD DVD version floating that covers many years of GM cars together.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
Has anyone had this problem? My tires this winter were constantly loosing air, and the DIC kept going off a few days after I refilled the tires.
Took the car in, was told the rims were cleaned, tire-center could not find any leaks, I even had them rebalanced. Weather is warming up and air pressure seems to be holding.
ok- the bad, have 69K miles on the car and still original tires. I was going to keep car to end of year so trying to avoid the new tire purchase.
With only two showing saturation, it sounds like computer or shorted wires.
You don't want washed down cylinder walls, so you'd be better off disconnecting those two injectors if you have to run until diagnosed.
I have a '95 Aurora, its been in the shop for 2 weeks, Reflashed or whatever they do the first time I was in limp mode- lasted 2 weeks, another $140 tow, replaced pcm- lasted 2 hrs, back to the dealer, ordered and replaced eeprom- lasted 20 mins...GM techs in Lansing ( I think its Lansing) say " order another pcm " rebuilt one was "flaky". Install new pcm this morning- now SES light is on - no cam shaft signal- try new camshaft sensor- No-go- GM says order ignition module- $ 900 canadian - hmmmm - ordered one from the wrecker $ 200.00 if that clears it up - its going to the auction !!!! Bye Bye GM Hello Japan - enough of this garbage.
Its too bad, the Aurora is a really nice car...but like most North American consumer products, they are built to break. Ya think its because they want us to buy new ones???
How come a Japanese car can last for years and years and 100's of thousands of miles yet they are still selling cars in record numbers??
Pissed off
It didn't ruin my day.
I already know where I stand with my 95 AURORA. Its sadly comforting to hear another with the same problems, at least I know I'm not 100% going insane with the thing!
What makes me sick is the dealer asking $85.00/hr to look at the dam thing when I know its something simple like a loose or broken wire(s) somewhere.
Sadly and grateful that I still have my 1992 Mitsubishi with 310,000 miles on it and I'm now driving it again, runs like a charm with no major repairs ever, and I took the same care of the Aurora over the last 11 years!
The Aurora is a great car when its running and doing what its supposed to do, but its almost like a British car... you never know when it will break, stall or if it will even start...
I'm not giving up on the car yet, it will sit in the garage till spring.
I still need any information on finding a wiring diagram for this car.
Good luck (pissed off) we all feel your pain!
:sick:
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
I am in chicago area as well, care to mention where I can find that good shop?
thanks,
As for specialty shops that "know" the model, I know the fellow across the street takes his Honda Acuras to a specialist who knows what will go and what won't and keeps him way ahead of expenses compared to a dealer (he has 4 Honda Acuras).
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
Interesting that you comment on "like a british Car" hahah if you notice my "handle" 87XJSC that is my 1987 Jaguar XJ-SC Cabriolet. soooooo I indeed appreciate the comment. The JAG, I can deal with the anomolies of everthing british - gremlins and such , because it is a toy and so very sexy , like a fickle woman.
Now, The Aurora's problems are just NOT acceptable.
I hope this damn ignition module fixes it.
Ahh the days when our biggest problems were stuck accelerator pumps and bad heat riser valves..
I'll let you know monday or Tues what the module does or doesn't do!
Cheers
Caddy dealers are your best bet for the Aurora as the chassis and drive train are Cadillac based.
These cars need the support of knowledge that few mechanics have. Try this site for a lot of knowledge:
"auroraclubna"
For my oil changes I go to Walmart 23.00 dollars.Just had a fuel pump replaced.Keep in mind I never had any electrical problems at this point,177k on my 95.
Computer? I think all have to be programmed before install.
95? OBD I, I have no idea of the capabilities of that system. AllData, as I recall has a subscription for about $30. Much cheaper than factory manuals and likely near as good. Should have charts for all possible computer codes and associated trouble shooting charts, sometimes by symptom. Also wiring diagrams, part break downs etc. Also have support for any questions.
Another thought would be the temp sensor. Could it be out of range causing the vehicle to think it is extremely cold. Easy to check if it is the purely resistive type. (cheaper too, than shot gun method) Charts likely to show signals from ignition control module to computer. also inputs to module. Car can run in default mode with some of these missing.
Good Luck
Thanks
Is it a fuel pump problem? I know one car mechanic talks about driving around with pressure gauges taped tot he windshield of cars to find what's really happenign?
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
Maybe something on the line of crankshaft or cam sensor, but not sure that would limit it to just a couple of cylinders going that rich.
I like that idea of shorts in the wires to the return signal for those injectors.
Fuel pressure seems low! I would think it more in the 40# range for fuel injectors. Maybe some trash got in the system and is causing injector to stay open. I'd say get spec on fuel pressure since you talk like you have a guage and monitor it.
key on engine off, it should build fairly high. Caution, if it is pumping fuel into cylinder not running, you could get a lock of the engine.
Any data on how that functions would be greatly appreciated. It does function sometimes, just not as much as I would think it should.
Also cruising steady at say 45MPH, engaging cruise control disengages the TCC. That seems stupid.
Anyone had a symptom of cruise causing TCC to disengage?
The car has 85M.
I have been to 2 shops and they cannot figure out what is wrong.
Has this happened to anyone else?
I'm thinking the only sensor accessible through the bottom might be temp.
Or were they able to pull the side cover without pulling tranny?
thanks
Anita
jerry
I used a Rochester, I think, and have had lingering questions ever since, but then the old one had been bad for a long time I suspect. Maybe to the point it ate the front O2. I looked at as many replacements as were available for it and all of them had less flutes on the sensor. Bought GM instead.
I can't recall what exactly I was looking for in the AllData troubleshooting. May have been following symptom troubleshooting, but in one step it called for removing the screen from the FPR, like throw it away?
Of concern for me about the FPR is that one model will fit several vehicles. Maybe the regulation across the entire curve isn't accurate, particularly to this V8. The Rochester looked so close to the OEM, it would take close inspection to determine a difference.
You earlier mentioned pressures. Were you referring to oil pressure or to fuel pressure? Those pressures mentioned would be way too low for fuel injection or this vehicle.
I have a brand new fuel pump module. New 02 sensor. New Fpr new plugs and wires plus both air and fuel filters new. And had all injectors and full lines and rail cleaned out from the tank to the injectors.
Runs great getting 24 highway and 17/18 in the city. No codes are present.
I did notice a very slight leak on the rail were the plastic clip connects the stainless steel line to the black plastic line. I guess from the few pressure test I had done weakened it.
It will leak maybe a few drops per hr. I can see a very small ammount of fuel on top of the transmission.
Do you guys have any idea what may be causing this problem. Also in the mournings I noticed a small ammount of blue white smoke coming from the tail pipe. Only does it in the mournings.
Not loosing any coolant at all. Haven't had to fill it in about 8 months. Seems to loose a quart of oil every thousand miles or so.
Could this be a leaky injector. My mechanic says no. But I think he gets a little lazy at times on me. As long as it's running good he's happy. But hey I'm not. We all love our aurora's and want them close to perfect all the time.
Thanks again for any help
Jeremy
Your warm-start problems sound like FPR. Was your replacement part a genuine AC Delco? May consider trying another replacement (being careful of the small O-ring at the bottom of the FPR - you didn't leave the old one in there, did you?) and see if the problem gets better...
It's only been 2 days since the new FPR was put in. Maybe I need to wait a few days for it to adjust. It was all new though.
I had the fuel rail replaced about 3,000 miles ago. It was the recall job. My mechanic was the one who told me I needed a new fuel pressure regultor. I didn't see fuel in the black tube but he said it didn't matter.
Could the starter be getting weak maybe. Thanks for any direction you guys can send me in. I know a good bit about the aurora now. But don't know what else to check right now.
Thanks Jeremy
My first replacment FPR came with a bad O-ring on the bottom. GM replaced it once I put my old one back on and my warm-start problems ceased. There was a size difference in the O-rings... might wish to check this out.