Oldsmobile Aurora Maintenance & Repair

jfs6741

I believe it is a cv joint. Had same noise for a couple of weeks - tonight I looked closely and found driver side cv joint rubber boot ring/clamp dislodged and grease was everywhere. The noise is like a sort of rumble which varies in pitch with acceleration. As you mentioned, performance seems unaffected. Will go to the dealer on Monday. Also, if I steered towards right noise was louder, towards the left, noise was significantly lower. Left cv joint is bad.

John

alcan

A worn outer CV joint usually causes a clicking sound during lower speed tighter turns to that side. A growl which changes as the wheel's rocked side to side at higher speed is usually a defective wheel bearing.

drogran

All of a sudden I have no interior lights on my 2001 Aurora 4.0 (139K miles) yet ALL other electrical functions seem fine. The under hood fuse box has no positions for interior lighting and the owners manual is no help. Any ideas??? Dennis Ogran

cplmac

I picked up a new water pump, the specialty socket for the twist lock, a replacement belt for the cam drive and now am waiting for the gaskets to be shipped in. When I finish replacing the pump I will post the procedure. It is a twist lock pump, and there are 3 seperate gaskets for the pump housing not including the O-Ring for the pump itself. Should be an interesting job. And yes indeed it is a chain driven timing assembly. Not sure if they could have made this a more bizarre vehicle to work on if they tried. Spark plugs was a fun job, and so was trying to figure out where the battery was when it needed replacement a couple years ago.

sadgirl

Thank's so much for your input I will check the previous messages. $400-500 is that the cost from a dealer or to do it myself? Is that something that I can do myself?

my96ahroarahhh

I purchased my 96 Aurora in March with 107K. I replaced the fuel ring due to two leaks and subsequently the FPR, wires and plugs. For those buying pre-owned aurora's know that there's a recall on the fuel ring (nylon tubing replaced with a stainless steel ring) free. I still have issues though. I can't get over 50 or 60 mph without the car stuttering. Sometimes I just try to push past it, but then it rides kind of sickly for a while. When the rpms reach 3000 it just dances and stutters. Any idea what an aurora lover can do about it?

Thanks

ibtiggs

Does anyone know the tsb (Technical Service Bulletin) that outlines the replacement of the fuel rail, from nylon to stainless? I spent 20 minutes arguing with a GM service writer, and Service Manager about it. It seems they know absolutely NOTHING about it, and deny there is such a thing!

Any help would be appreciated!

hammen2

Hmm... stuttering after a tune-up (I assume the tach is jumping, and it's not the tranny slipping). Did you do it yourself, or pay someone to change the plugs and wires? Plugs gapped correctly? Only used AC Delco brand? How bad were your old plugs and wires? I have personally seen where driving too long with bad plugs and wires has fried a coil pack. If the plugs and wires check out, you might try picking up one coil pack, swapping it for one on the car, taking it for a drive, if no change put the old one back and swap the new one for a different one, et. al.

--Robert

hammen2

http://www.nhtsa.gov is your friend.

It's not a TSB - it's actually a recall. The relevant summary is below:

Make: CADILLAC, OLDSMOBILE
Model: ELDORADO, SEVILLE, AURORA
Type: ANY
Year: 1996
Recall Number: 04V110000
Summary:
SOME PASSENGER VEHICLES EQUIPPED WITH 4.0L V8 ENGINES HAVE A CONDITION IN WHICH THE NYLON TUBING USED IN THE FUEL RAIL CONSTRUCTION MAY DEGRADE AND CRACK. ADDITIONALLY, THE 1995 MODEL YEAR USES A UNIQUE UNDERHOOD FUEL RETURN LINE THAT MAY CRACK. CRACKING OF THE FUEL RAIL OR RETURN LINE TUBING CAN RESULT IN A FUEL LEAK INTO THE ENGINE COMPARTMENT.
Consequence:
FUEL LEAKAGE, IN THE PRESENCE OF AN IGNITION SOURCE, COULD RESULT IN A FIRE.
Remedy:
DEALERS WILL INSPECT AND, IF NECESSARY, REPLACE THE ENGINE FUEL RAIL WITH A NEW STAINLESS STEEL FUEL RAIL. DEALERS WILL ALSO INSTALL A REVISED CHASSIS FUEL RETURN LINE. THE RECALL BEGAN ON JUNE 2, 2004, FOR 1996-1997 OLDSMOBILE AURORA VEHICLES. OWNERS OF 1995 CADILLACS AND 1996-1997 OLDSMOBILE AURORA WERE SENT LETTERS ON AUGUST 6, 2004. ADDITIONAL LETTERS TO OWNERS WILL BE FORTHCOMING. OWNERS SHOULD CONTACT OLDSMOBILE AT 1-800-630-6537.
Notes:
GM RECALL NO. 04014. CUSTOMERS CAN ALSO CONTACT THE NATIONAL HIGHWAY TRAFFIC SAFETY ADMINISTRATION'S AUTO SAFETY HOTLINE AT 1-888-DASH-2-DOT (1-888-327-4236).

sinatra2

you may wish to check with the Canadian recall listing as I ran into the same thing with my 96...funny thing is I bought a 97 in Florida this past Feb and to import it into Canada I had to make sure all the US recalls were performed and get proof....Mine had the new fuel rail already done.

grnhornet

if you had this repair done on your own or in the past GM will refund your money if you have the receipt.

ibtiggs

Thank you all for the info... I think it is a US recall only, as the dealer has no idea what I am talking about

hammen2

Although the info I posted was from the U.S. NHTSA, given the serious nature of the problem (leaking fuel rails = engine fire), I cannot imagine that GM has not issued the same recall (under a different campaign number) in Canada. Perhaps searching the Transport Canada web site?

I would be vigilant and INSIST that they call GM TAC regarding this issue, and not let it slide...

my96ahroarahhh

Thanks, I had my son-in-law replace the wires and plugs. I'll check with him on the brand. The receipt reads AC Platinum. He actually replaced the fuel ring and the car acted like it was going to cut off on acceleration, and it wouldn't start. I had it towed to the dealer who "checked the fuel ring out" and they said I needed a new FPR. Thinking my son-in-law was learning as he was going, I paid 316.51 to let the dealer replace the FPR that my mechanic had to move from the one side of the engine to the other anyway. They were going to charge a grand total of 655.00 to replace the wires and plugs. I asked my son-in-law what he was gapping the plugs at and he said 0.050. That's what the owner's manual says even though from this forum I've read that 0.060 worked on some??? The old wires were replaced just prior to my purchase in March of 04 according to the seller.

Do you know anything about the "driving through water" theory? The owners manual says "If you drive too quickly through eep puddles or standing water, water can come in through your engine's air intake and badly damage your engine. Never derive through water that isslightly lower thatn the underbody of your vehicle. If you can't aoid deep puddles or standing water, drive through them very slowly". I'm wondering if this is the problem.

Thanks again for your quick response.

cplmac

I bought the parts to replace the water pump this weekend.
Water Pump 50
Gasket upper 10
Gasket lower 10
Gasket housing cover 10
Water pump removal socket(specialty tool) 30

Turns out it was leaking from the weep hole in the water pump. The leaking coolant really seized it in the housing. This water pump is basically just a big twist lock. No bolts holding it in, very weird design. No more leak, pretty simple fix, but a little tricky breaking the twist lock loose on the old water pump. Hope this helps someone out. Did not need the upper and lower gaskets.

2k1olds

My 97, which just turned 100,000 miles, has started leaking oil onto the garage floor for about a week now. It appears to be coming down the rear side of the oil pan before dripping on to the floor. I clean the spot every morning, and a new one is there the next morning. I thought the rear seal problem was mainly on the 95 and 96 model years???? Any help is appreciated.

Thanks,
John

hammen2

Welcome to the "NorthStar rear engine seal" club. I had this on my 1998, so it's definitely not just a '95-'96 problem. The newly-designed seal that can be installed is a definite fix for this problem, but, since the engine and tranny have to be dropped, and the engine split and re-sealed, it's big $$$ - I want to say my job was $1800 (thank you, extended warranty). I would definitely shop the job around if you decide to pursue it - not exactly DIY...

--Robert

2k1olds

Robert,
Thanks for the info. As much as I love this car, I would sell it before I dump $2000+ grand on this repair. it just does not make economic sense to spend that kind of money on a 9 year old car with 100,000 on the clock. Will wait to see how things progress.......

hammen2

Sorry I missed you post earlier. $400-$500 would be a baseline cost for dealer repair. The parts kit you need, and a procedure, was spelled out in post #2202 in this discussion. I would not attempt this unless you were moderately DIY-capable. Having said that, I would tend to avoid dealerships for these kinds of repairs, due to the high $$$ charges - may be best to find an independent mechanic, but print out and give them these instructions.

--Robert

hammen2

AC Platinum - probably is AC Delco.
$316.51 to replace the FPR? Wow, that's insane. I would not visit that dealer again/would call up the service manager and complain - that's literally a 5-minute job, and a $50 or less part. $655 for plugs and wires?!?!? I think the parts alone were just over $100, and it was literally a 45-minute job to do that and the FPR. I used .050 for the gap and the car is running fine.

Have you removed the air filter and MAF tube, and looked at the throttle body? For whatever reason, the throttle body on Northstars tends to get gummed up with crud. Would strongly suggest getting a $2 can of throttle-body cleaner (do NOT use carb cleaner), spraying it in there, and wiping it down. You can actuate the butterfly valve manually. If it's really bad, you may need to remove the whole assembly and clean it up.

Did you drive through a deep standing pool of water or something, since you brought that up? If not, I would not think that's the case - would purse the throttle body and coil pack ideas, once you've confirmed the plugs and wires...

--Robert

keumnam

My door lights on my 2001 (43k miles) aren't working when any doors are opened. The only lights that work are the onces under the dash.

My right back passenger door power window mechanism went south last week...$440 later for a new assembly (the cable broke) installed later...and now the door lights don't work. But it is my wife's car so I don't know if the lights were not working prior to this or not. I took a quick look at the door switches for the lights but I didn't see any. I need to find the time to figure out where they are located.

There is a fusebox under the back seat by the battery (I just replaced the battery..it wen't bad on Thanksgiving day)

keumnam

My wife's 2001 3.5 (43k miles) atarted being very noisy which was directly related in pitch and intensity to speed. I initially thought I had a bad tire, it seemed like roadnoise...almost...so I replaced the tires (it was nearing due anyways) but it made no difference.

Took it in and apparently it was in some planetary type gear in the differential type setup..$2k later and it is fixed. They had to ship the unit to Salt Lake City (we live in Boise, Idaho) for overhaul and they shipped back the bad parts and it was definitely bad. There was a gear and a bunch of needle bearings and such...

I love driving the car, my wife loves driving the car..but hate the maintence we are beginning to see...tranny, air conditioning leak (2 years ago), delamination of the front window post covers, light lense fell off drivers door, transmission problems, battery, right rear window wouldn't go up ($440 to fix..bad cable assembly) and the steering kind of clunks which I had checked out and told it is in the steering mechanism which requires lubrication. It is much more prevalant in cold weather. Other than that...great car...and only 43k miles on it. It shouldn't have ANY problems with this mileage on it. After my nightmare with our 1999 Grand Prix money pit, I am afraid of GM cars now. It had a tranny go out (2300 dollars), the a/c blower resistor pack go out, the a/c blower go out, the radio lights are possessed, the plastic intake manifold plenum cracked (600 dollars), all four door interior panels falling off (those cheesy little plastic stick on things to hold the panels in are too cheap..replace under warranty once...now I will have to pay), and delamination of the vinyl from the armrests on the doors. But we like how it drives overall. Maybe the Aurora will be a little bit like the Grand Prix in that after all that work was done, it has been a pretty reliable car. The GP has 85K miles on now. My best vehicle...my 1971 Volkswagen camper bus. Easy to work on and reliable. Just no heat or air conditioning..or power.

keumnam

A associate of mine where I work recently bought a Pontiac Bonneville and immediately flushed out the dexcool and put the green stuff in. I do believe he stated his engine is a 3.8 and he also stated he did this after hearing about my problems with my Grand Prix 3.8 with the cracked plastic inlet plenum.

Is this advisable to do?

keumnam

How critical is it to replace the battery, located under the rear passenger seat, with one which hooks to the vent lines?

To me it looks like a gimmick to try and get someone to buy a overpriced battery. I drove VW's for years which had not battery vents...it looks gimmicky to me. The warning talks about the rear seat belt restraint system and such...baloney.

e_net_rider

I think such action may have been a bit hasty since I've seen recommendations that if the green stuff is ever in, don't switch. Logic would be, since I've even seen a spec of allowable seepage past gaskets for GM, that no amount of flushing will get that having seeped past the barrier edge of the gasket. It is likely a closely held secret by GM of what actually happens to that gasket when the orange seeps far enough to catch up to the green.
And it would seem certain that there could be a problem of using older coolant with todays newer components. You certainly wouldn't use SC,SD,SE,SF oil in your Aurora.
I would lean towards one of the newer coolants that claim they are compatible with anything, but then who knows if that is just a sales gimmick betting they'd never get sued.
Still, I'd have more confidence in that than something designed for much older vehicles.

I did recover a few globules from the reservoir. Wasn't brown, more like a black, but not diesel black like in the Buick. Since what is in the Aurora has less than half the time of the Buick, maybe more time will tell. Also had a significant leak by the crossover loosing a quart every couple of thousand miles. Probably added close to 3 gallons of 50/50 since the change. I managed to tighten a bolt a little and slow it, or else there is another leak. That is one of the things with a coolant system. Plug one and another shows with the increase. In the old days of metal radiators, often a slip-shod mechanic would punch a tiny pinhole in the radiator. No recovery back then and cooler engines so you'd never see the leak of steam venting pressure unless you looked closely.

e_net_rider

Critical enough that NHTSA forced its use. Recorded cases of explosions because of the hydrogen gas vented.
Look at it this way. Would your drive around with open gas cans or a bunch of fireworks in your backseat?

imidazol97

The DexCool does not contain certain parts which affect the life of the seals and waterpump. The DexCool does not cause the intake manifold to deteriorate. That's a function of the heat from the EGR tube sticking up through the earliest design. Replacements have a large space between the metal tube and the plastic of the intake.

If the DexCool is maintained and replaced regularly it's better for the longevity than the green stuff.

hammen2

If the DexCool is maintained and replaced regularly it's better for the longevity than the green stuff.

Agree 100%, especially when there are documented head gasket and other problems with the "green coolant" and aluminum engines...

e_net_rider

A recent study claimed the best cars out of Detroit were mid- late- 80's. It seems every since then they have been finding ways to cut corners to meet union obligations and still compete in the market. So the near implosion and announcement yesterday that GM is closing 8 plants and bond status is junk should be no real surprise. After the industry nearly imploded in the early 70's you'd think they'd learned something.
Toyota was said to, paraphrasing, be kicking their [non-permissible content removed]. So they either build better or they will close. I visited the Corvette assembly line about 15 years ago. Don't know what they were paid but purportedly very good wages. 90% of the time they were standing waiting for the next part. It looked like the most technical was the dozen mechanics at the end of the line. Each car got about a two minute run-up and if not satisfactory they worked on them. One was making horrible noise like bad wrist pin or rod bearing. I asked the mechanic if they'd put another motor in it. He said no, they'd fix it. Personally, I wouldn't want that car. I'd want a motor that had gone through entire batch of runup tests and not repaired before it left the plant.

jgj

I RECENTLY PERFORMED A TUNE-UP ON MY AURORA BECAUSE IT STARTED BACKFIRING & WOULD NOT ACCELERATE WHEN YOU COME TO A STOP. AFTER THE TUNE-UP, IT WORKED FINE FOR 2 DAYS & THE PROBLEM CAME BACK. I HAVE 87,000 MILES...ALSO WHEN DRIVING, IF YOU STEP OFF THE ACCELERATOR & PUSH BACK ON IT, THERE IS HESITATION..BOTH ISSUES OCCURED BEFORE THE TUNE-UP.. PLEASE HELP..THANKS

keumnam

Understand your logic. In other words, if I buy the same battery at half the cost, enclose it in tupperware container...and hook those vent tubes up...I will get the same result.

What they really need is a enclosed battery box...cheap and actually more effective in my view.

If you read the warning on the OEM battery, it talks about protecting the seat belt "system". Seems pretty weak to me.

Anyway...this is what Popular Mechanics says...
REMOTE ACCESS
I just bought a Saturn Ion. The battery is mounted in the trunk next to the spare. Why? Is this safe? Don't batteries give off hydrogen gas? There's no ventilation in the trunk.
HARRY HOSLER
CIRCLEVILLE, OH

There are any number of vehicles on the road with the battery mounted someplace other than the engine compartment. VW Beetles have had the battery mounted under the rear seat since before World War II. There isn't really enough hydrogen produced, especially with modern battery technology, to produce a fire or explosion hazard. Any car with a trunk-mounted battery will have either a vented battery box or a battery that doesn't vent hydrogen. The advantage? More room in the engine compartment. As a secondary advantage, the battery should last a lot longer separated from the heat underhood. Also, front-heavy vehicles can benefit from moving the weight to the rear.

A disadvantage would be the increased voltage drop in the battery cable caused by the longer wire run. This can be compensated for by upgrading the gauge of the cable. Downside: The positive battery cable for your Ion lists for $128. Ouch. Just be sure to maintain your battery clamps. They'll be easy to ignore hidden out of sight back there.

http://www.popularmechanics.com/automotive/sub_care_clinic/1272181.html?page=2&c=y

keumnam

At what interval do you recommend replacing the coolant? I had our system flushed in our 2001 Aurora a few months ago..I'd say at 37k miles, along with the transmission fluid.

Is this a reasonable period or should it be done sooner i.e. annually? I don't buy that 100k lifespan stuff...too much crap and contamination (dirt, metallic material, etc) can flow through the system in my view.

keumnam

Good advice. I will stick with the dexcool and just replace regularly. Cheap insurance in my view.

keumnam

We have a small random problem with our Aurora with no pattern except it happens a minute or two after driving.

The entire lighting system..headlights, interior lights, dash lights, everything lights as far as we can tell, do a momentary flicker just once. This has been going on since we owned the car...we bought it at 5300 miles on it.

blk97aurora

What was done in the tuneup? What brand parts?

A leaking fuel pressure regulator can manifest itself with several symptoms. Backfiring and hesitation are among them. Replacement is a 10-minute job; ACDelco FPR can be had for about $50 mail order. Don't delay; backfire in my '97 caused an underhood fire.

Has your fuel rail been replaced under the safety recall program? I have seen different part numbers for FPR depending on (old) plastic or (new) stainless steel fuel rail.

Les

drogran

I finally found that fuse box and replaced it. However, it continues to blow about every other day. Obviously a short somewhere in the interior lght circuit but I've no idea how to locate it.

jgj

I HAVE A '98 OLDS AURORA...98,000 MILES..
THE (ABS) LIGHT REMAINS ON & THE TRACTION CONTROL LIGHT STAYS ON ALL THE TIME ALSO...
THE BRAKES/ROTORS ARE FINE..
THERE WAS SLIGHT PULSATING ON THE FRONT BRAKES, BEFORE I CHANGED THEM..HOWEVER THE (ABS) & TRACTION CONTROL LIGHTS BEGAN TO STAY CONSTANTLY LONG BEFORE I NEEDED BRAKES..
ANY SUGGESTIONS?

e_net_rider

I think the anti-lock light will flash a number of times during key-on indicating bad sensor and which one.
If that were problem.
Coming on at beginning and staying on sounds potentially serious. But then it might just be part of the check bulb circuitry.

hammen2

Probably a wheel hub assembly... not sure which one, though. Search this discussion for "hub" or "sensor"...

--Robert

jerdfx

Hey everyone. Figured I'd make a post to get some of your guys thoughts on my current problem. I know it could be alot of things so I'll decribe what is going on.

The car just recently passed inspection about 3 weeks ago. Needed a fuel pump and rotors all the way around. I got a OE rebuilt pump and not the whole module. Gauge is still a little wacky but not sure how it is really working.

Car ran alright for a few hundred miles or so. I was told there was a code for a oxygen sensor in the car. It was cleared and the car passed emmissions and inspection. The next day light came on. Took it to my mechanic. Code P0300 random multiple cylinder missfire. Car was running alright so I said I would deal with it for right now. But eventually the car got worse and lost all it's power again.

It was fine until we got the first cold day. It started up then was really rocky out of the drive way. Got to the top of the hill and it died on me about a mile away from my house. I had to walk home with my 2 younge kids and it sucked. Called a friend we went up to the car. It wouldn't start. We got some starting fluid and it started up. I had to keep it ideling with my foot on the pedal or it would die. Barley got it home. It has no power at all. Feels like a 1 cylinder.

When the temp is warm out it fires right up and wants to run it seems. I get a very loud popping like a gun shot when I let the car sit for awhile and try and start it. Doesn't happen everytime but scares the hell out of you. My hood area actully moves when this happens. Then the next time I turn the key it fires up strong. But won't
start at all in the cold unless your lucky to get it before the battery dies.

I had the hood open the other day and my son was looking at the egine and said he saw sparks near the coil pack area. I did see a small bit of smoke in that area. I just got a tune up not even 3,000 miles ago. I pulled a plug yesterday and it was heavily blackened with carbon.

Any thoughts guys. It's getting old throwing parts at this problem. It could be so many things. I think it's the coil packs or the injectors. The light would periodically go out when I filled up with a full tank or if I ran injector cleaner. But it was all just a tempory fix. Gas mileage is down about 33% to about 12.5 per gallon.

If anyone has seen this problem before. Let me know what you did to try and cure it.

Thanks Jeremy

jerdfx

Sorry It's a 96 with 79K. I guess I used all my edit's up. Don't see the button.

Thanks Jeremy

blk97aurora

Jeremy,

The symptoms you describe are more severe than what I have read about or experienced, but I believe your problem is a leaking fuel pressure regulator. See #3059 in this discussion and search archives for FPR. In addition to what I have posted before, a backfire can dislodge the PCV pipe, which could cause additional drivability problems.

Les

alcan

Start by having any stored diagnostic trouble codes retrieved with an ABS capable scanner. Although it's probably a wheel speed sensor (which is integral with the hub/bearing assembly), any other approach is guesswork, and guesswork gets expensive in a hurry if you start throwing parts at it. Less expensive in the long run by having it diagnosed properly in the first place.

claywell

i bought a 96 aurora it has milege but runs great. the only problem i have is that it runs hot (around 200 degreas) if its sitting it doesnt get hot but if you drive it for a few minutes the temp rises to 200 the coolant doesnt boil out when you take the cap off. is this normal operating temps? any comments with my concearn would be greatly appreciated

blk97aurora

Up to 220 appears to be "normal" for classic Auroras.

After six years of worrying about this, I have finally accepted it. I have replaced the thermostat and radiator and cleared all leaves, etc. from the radiator -- nothing helped. If the lower air deflector is missing, that can cause about 12 to 16 dgree increase. I have found that the temp gauge is often lower with the AC on. Counter intuitive, but the fans are always on with AC, and not on without AC until coolant temp reaches ~227.

All my previous cars ran at the thermostat setting when everything was OK. That is what I expected with my '97. I suspect that perhaps the temp sensor is in a different location from my previous cars. Or maybe it just runs hot.

Les

claywell

thanks les for your input was getting a little worried i also put a new thermostat on as well as a water pump was begining to think i had a real problem.

claywell

hello everyone im looking for somemore info. my heater in my 1996 aurora just quit working.it wont blow any air out.i checked the fuse and it was good. any suggestions?

jerdfx

Thanks for the reply Les. I checked today on the fpr. Is it attached to the fuel rail. I had the recall done this year. If that is it just by looking it looks brand new. Mine doesn't look like it comes off though. Has a nipple at the top with a small vac line coming out of it. But looks to be part of the fuel rail. All one peice. Unless the clip thing attached to it makes it come off. Not sure but I think that was it. Would it be sort of near the injectors under the plastice aurora cover.

I don't have the right plugs and wires on the car. I got bosch wires and plus 4 plugs. The plugs are really carboned. They have less than 3,000 miles on them. Should I try and clean them some how or replace with ac delco platinum plugs.

Thanks for the help. If you could let me know If what I was looking at was the fpr I would appreciate it.

Jeremy

blk97aurora

Jeremy,

From your description I'd say you have located it. If you pull the clip out, the FPR will be released. Careful, there's fuel under pressure there unless leaking has bled the pressure down. When my fuel rail was replaced, the dealership reinstalled my existing FPR; this practice may vary.

If your FPR is leaking, there will be fuel in the line you mention. It goes directly into the intake manifold, dumping excess gasoline which leads to a rich mixture resulting in various problems such as hard-to-start, stalling, backfires, lower fuel mileage, etc.

Although you will see strong recommendations on this board to use only ACDelco parts, I have a hard time believing use of bosch parts would cause such severe symptoms after only 3000 miles.

I would pull the hose off the FPR to check for presence of gasoline. If it is there, then the FPR is leaking and should be replaced. If not, then it may be the coil(s). Did you mention sparking in an earlier post? Take a look in the dark with engine running. I think the coils are about $40 each.

Les

claywell

ok so maybe i'm a idiot but can someone tell me how to operate the cd player in 96 aurora?i dont see any cd buttons and i just spent 60 bucks on a new magazine. I cant even get the magazine out of the changer, can someone please give me some input.