I just want to mention I followed the directions on my 1995 Aurora and it worked. the only thing is that my dash lights are out only when I turn on my head lamps.
I would like to know if there is a simple fix for the dash lights. I noticed you mentioned something about the fuse under the seat. I'll have to check into that.
Also, when I disconnected the battery, the radio has the anti-theft lock... anyone know if there is a factory reset code? If so what is it? My father just gave me the car today and he wasn't aware of any set code right off hand.
Dash lights: Sounds to me like the problem is with the interior lamps dimming switch (variable resistor) or connections. It's a wheel to the left of the steering column; try rotating it. You may need to replace the switch if it is defective. I see them occasionally on eBay. Since your dash lamps work with headlights off (same as DRLs on for '96 to '99 Classics), I do not think you have a fuse problem.
If you do however, there are four fuses that could be involved. I/P 1 (10 amp), I/P 2 (10 amp), and INT LP (20 amp) are all under the rear seat; they are not likely the source of your problem because they do not connect (at least not directly) to lamps. There is a 10-amp fuse labeled INT LP located in the panel to the left of the steering column behind a rectangular door that can be seen when the driver's door is open. If there is a fuse problem, this one is most likely it. There are also two dimming modules mounted on either side of the steering column below the instrument panel. I would look at the dimming wheel first. This info comes from my '97 factory service manual; there are some differences compared to '95.
Radio THEFTLOCK: my service manual mentions a "factory backup code." I'm sure GM protects these strongly. I imagine that you will need to go to a GM dealer or ACDelco radio repair shop with your VIN. They may not give you the code, but require that they unlock the radio for you (at a charge, of course).
Enjoy your father's Oldsmobile and let us know how you make out.
There seems to be a whole lot of little things that I need to fix, but I'm not really complaining since the price was right (free) and afterall, the car does have over 172,000 miles on it! I think I can get another 40k or so. New tranny and new A/C... not too bad.
One thing is for sure, it gets better gas mileage than my 4.8 liter 2000 Chevy Silverado!
This spring, The display on the temp control went blank occasionally. When it did, I could not control the air using the knobs. The steering column control still worked. Dealership said it was likely the control head and would cost $1000 to fix. A light tap on the temp knobs would temporarily cure it. This weekend I pulled the control head (pretty easy) and took it apart (6 torx screws) . I found 8 (2watt??) resistors on the circuit board with the main connecter all had broken solder joints. Maybe the thermal ramps in Colorado stressed the joints. Anyway a quick solder job and know it works great! kenj1
I just picked up a 1996 last week and I found only 1 issue so far. When the headlights are on, the halo light on the driver's side seat control is out and my seat motor constantly ticks and does not move. when the car is on and the light are off, i have to hit the seat buttons repetatively to inch it to where i want it. when the car is off and lights off, the buttons work fine. please help. even if anyone just knows which harness to uplug so the motor doesn't run at all. i can set the seat where i want then do it. the ticking is driving me crazy. thanks.
First place I would check is the rubber strain relief where the wires go through the door. The wires controlling the seat adjustments/lumbar/heated seats (if you have them) are a very thin gauge, and repeated opening and closing of the door causes them to break, or at least be intermittent.
Thanks Les. Computer went to hell as well, so down for a few days. Problem. Your front number didn't match what I ordered. I had subscribed to that AllData site. Man I dislike it. Hard as heck to find what you are looking for as many of the links seem to lead you in circles and constantly confuse with general crap you might find in a separate chapter if you were looking a paper. Drill down method to what you want seems inconsistant as if everytime a stupid search engine were involved. But anyway for my 96, After 45 minutes to refind the info, it gives the same part number Rock Auto does for the front.AFS109. BTW, wasn't happy with GMParts direct shipping policy. What year is yours?
BTW, this computer not aurora. I came across some charts for the aurora and wow, this is a relatively weak system. seems the duct temp was like in mid 50's at 90 degrees. And at 100 very near 60 degrees duct. Thanks for those who input the console trick. I knew I had a major leak near the rear of the case on the left side. Thought maybe the case split there and maybe someone had changed that lower left motor and didn't get it quite right. Major tear into it to get a look. Finally pulled center console and all center dash components. Really tough getting that duct off the plenum for left side and center vents. The gasket behind it was totally misplaced. Also several others were loose or misplaced and a product called seals all does a good job. So hopefully getting the proper amount of air circulating will be a big help. I would never have found that shift knob pin. And some idiot spilled so much sugary liquid it pretty much glued that wood panel into the console. So be careful and patient when trying to remove. There is no telling what extra problems you will find including lots of change and sugar packets. On the bad side again, the wires to the shift knob were already broke, two places, above and below the slide panel they go through. But is it only two wires for the light and transmission switch?
Looking at 96, the picture I have, which is really a drawing, it shows it rear of the egr valve and following the flex pipe from it a few inches I have an arrow saying hidden. Sounds like it really is.
I have seen several posts on this subject. Why are people turning off the DTR lights? I would like to know the reasons and maybe how to turn them on if this 96 has it.
I took a look at the car and well it must be hidden. I noted a small wire run off the main at this end of engine, which runs under the crossover about where the EGR is located. You might want to find an EGR gasket and remove it to see if it gives enough clearance. manual time allotted for change is 1.5 hours.
Follow up as I need more info. How do you remove the right side of the dash. I appear to have it loose everywhere except the right side top. Turns out the foam gasket for that right side main duct is also very badly misplaced. Pretty certain this is somones work as most of the gasket was running across the middle of the ducts hole on both ducts. This now brings into question what might be hidden in the area of the recirculate door. HELP!
I figured it out. No light. Dang, that almost looks like an oversight for this sophisticated car. But then who was the idiot engineer that made the ash tray out of meltable plastic? But now that I know the wiring is fixed, can barely wait to try it. Broken wire yields normal position. Vroom! And also who is the idiot engineer calling out for such cheap wire that it breaks at flex points. Lets see, since it has to be a safety issue in order to force a recall, door wiring breaks, you can't adjust rear view mirrors. Isn't there a law requiring the mirror's? For those with broken door wiring, maybe its time to contact NHTSA. And since I have another vehicle that has the same issue, only it shorts out the third brake light wiring taking all brake lights. Maybe they will look into it as an industry problem.
It does seem odd, the change from 96 to 97. I double checked at rock auto and they show the change as well. Also there is the number stamped into the metal of the old one. But couldn't say it was the factory one.
I have taken the car to the dealer and it sat there for two weeks. They ran a complete diagnostics and couldn't find a problem or they were unable to recreate the problem. The problem is that when driving the car it just turns off. It happens on and off sometimes when I'm at a stop sign or even while on the road traveling. When I turn ignition its as if the car is dead, no sound nothing. Then I try again and it kicks in like its attempting to start after 3 times or more it kicks in and starts up. Can anyone tell me if this might be a fuel pump issue or electrical.
Hi johny34. your problem is that the tranny has gone bad. first, never change transmission fluid on any vehicle with over 70k on it unless it has been serviced regularly eg tranny service. You're just asking for trouble. It sounds like the clutches for 3rd and 4th gears have slipped. This means an overhaul. Prior to the decision of a very expensive o/haul, get it scanned by a diagnostic shop to ensure that all the shift solenoids are operating properly. if so, o/haul time or replace with a used unit. I recently found a used 4T80E for 550.00 here in SC. Cadillacs use the same trans. Hope this helps you.
Hi Izzy, I'm co-owner of a repair shop here in SC and I'm having the same issue with a clients 95 model. It started out as once in a while, now it stalls all the time, especially in turns...quite dangerous. I've not been able to solve this problem in the 60 days I've had the car...Do y ou really want this issue on your hands?
Not shifting out of second for a 95-96 Aurora is 99% caused by bad shift solenoids. Replacement is a few hundred dollars, nothing like needing an overhaul.
Hi momrc, It sounds as though you're having a pass key ll issue. When/ if the problem re-occurrs, check to see if there is a message about a dirty key. If so, you may want to consider a replacement ignition lock cylinder. As far as the stalling issue is concerned, have all recalls been performed to the vehicle? Check with your local dealer to ensure they have been performed.
blk97aurora, hi, late night/early morning at the time, never even noticed the date . and yes, while it's true that 60% of gm shift problems can be solved by replacing solenoids, the other 40% or so require an overhaul or replacement with a used/salvaged unit .
Does anyone know of a particular brand of aftermarket stereo that will allow using the steering wheel controls in a 1995 Aurora?
It seems that the stock radio has a somewhat funny shape. On Crutchfield all of their radios require modifying the mounting area (I am almost certain the bezel will have to be cut).
If anyone on here has an aftermarket radio in their Aurora, let me know how it works with the steering wheel controls and how many modifications had to be made.
helo everyone,,,is it normal to hear a slight hummm from the fuel pump...or should you not be able to hear the fuel pump running at all ??? thanks everyone
I've never heard mine. Where are you when you hear it? Is it continuous? Might the sound you hear be from the air pump for the rear shocks? I do hear that one occasionally.
hey les,,,thanks for the response...if your sitting in your vehicle with motor ideling,(everything off such as radio,fan,air,etc.) listen towards the rear of the car and listen for the fuel pump humming...you can also open the trunk,put your ear near the floor of the trunk and hear it more clearly...the humming sound is continuous..i'm only asking because a mechanic recently told me when the fuel pump starts humming,it may be the beginning of the end for the pump ????
Your mechanic may be right. I'll check tomorrow for fuel pump sound.
I replaced my fuel pump last year at 115,000 miles. Preventive maintenance, as I did not want to compete with Henri with his experience of fuel pump failure in the Holland Tunnel. The other reason I replaced was the sender had not been working right for several months.
Yep they getting me too. Is there some shortcuts I should be aware of? AllData says something about removing bolt from left trans mount. What did you have to do? Jack the engine far enough to get the mount plate off the idler stud? Or did you try to shift the engine rearward (to left fender)?? I'm most of the way apart, but can't get the mounts out of the way. All nuts and bolts removed.
Can you describe exactly what you mean by acting like it's not getting enough fuel? That would help greatly in know where to start to diagnose the problem.
My first thought was to check your fuel rails, but I see that's already been replaced.
Key word, "may". Which don't mean didly. We had a Taurus that went to making noise. Since it was local use and one of those aroun'to it, it never quite got checked. Tank full when there was time or the opposite. It was so darned loud you might think you had an exhaust leak. Fortunately, I didn't drive the car often as the daughter had inherited it and you know kids, the radio is extra loud. At the volume I would listen, I could still hear the pump. Anyway, still going strong after 30K of noise until the car totaled. So do you think 30K is it won't last? "Your milage may vary"
Well I got it apart, and to save time, I got local pulleys. Now hear this if you decide to do this job. Autozone pulleys appear to be crap. Most quality American bearings I've seen have a feathered edge to maintain seal to the hub or may even use some sort of garter spring to maintain seal. These Korean crap just have the seal laying against the hub, and it appears there may actually be a very fine gap. Any contaminant, water, dust, oil will all kill a bearing in short order. And once past the seal it is spun (centrifugal force) into the bearings. For long life, bearings can't even be touched with bare hands. They need a white glove environment and that is why the seal is important. NAPA, didn't fair a whole lot better, but at least the bearing appears sealed. First, one of them was not seated far enough into the pulley. The design is not at all like the original and included a insert saying if the original washer don't fit, through it away. So my faith in NAPA is fading fast. And also the bearing in the idler pulley, not tensioner, is much smaller. I can only guess how long the life.
For those attempting this job, AllData says to remove the pin from the left (front) transmission mount. And then I had to almost jack the engine out of the car. Two jacks, one to remove wheel, one under oil pan with large sturdy peice of wood near crankshaft end. Also suggest removing the coil pack and of course watch for any other interference. Don't want to break more than you fix.
updating this job if using aftermarket parts. The pulley for the idler arm is a pressed peice of metal and wider than the original. Once mounted, I found I could not slip a belt between it and the block. I overcome this by using a large socket and driving against the outer part of the bearing, seating the pulley slightly farther onto the bearing. The pulley ends up quite close to the arm of the idler arm. It doesn't take much, maybe an 1/8 of an inch. Remember, don't drive on any part of the bearing except that which the pulley is pressed onto.
If for some strange unknown reason, say I threw the new belt a year from now, worse yet on the road and found that the mechanic said he had to pull the mount in order to put a new belt on. So much for NAPA quality.
Hi all, I am looking at a '99 Aurora with 63K miles. What issues/problems should I be aware of? Anything in particular that I should be looking for? All the electrical systems work fine, but there was some tapping coming from the engine on start up. I think it was cold because after the drive it was better. Is this common with the 4.0 or should I be wary? Any help is greatly appreciated. I have always liked the Aurora and now I have the opportunity to get my dream car. Thanks, Jerry
is it possible to have overheating issues if the valve stays open? Its hot here in Texas and my 97 has been running hotter and hotter. just replaced the thermostat and now even hotter. at the same time, the mechanic replaced the airfilter which was black and furry, made me think the egr was stick open... thoughts? any way to test or check it? thanks
Yesterday, my 1995 Aurora started to run a little rough. I noticed the car would idle rough almost like when you get bad gas. By the time I got home from work and stopped the car, a little bit of smoke was coming from the back of the engine near the firewall. After talking to the previous owner of the car (my father), he said the last time that happened to him was in October of 2003 and he had to replace the coil packs.
Does this sound like the issue? Has anyone else had this issue?
How difficult is it to replace the coil packs? Is it a possible DIY job? Please advise... thanks!
My '97 has idled rough 2 or 3 times. The problem always went away by itself, so I never knew the cause. How many miles on your plugs and wires? Are they ACDelco? I would suspect plugs and wires before the coils. I have no explanation for the smoke.
IF the coils do need to be replaced, it is not a difficult job. Each one is held in place by two screws that thread into the ignition module. You will need a socket with extension or a nut driver (I forget the hex size). Biggest danger is dropping the screws and not being able to retrieve them. There ar two plug wires on each coil. The coils plug into the ignition module. My '97 is running on its original coils at 124,000 miles (knock on wood).
I currently own a '99 olds aurora and after 2 years of ownership my multifuction switch has become a real headache and problem. My headlights will flash on and off without warning and without pulling out the 20A fuse will drag my battery down until it is dead. It is apparently from what several mechanics have told me a real issue with this model of oldsmobile and was never put on the recall list. :surprise:
Has anyone out there experienced this problem: I was told originally my multi function switch is defective in my 1999 Oldsmobile Aurora. These are the results of the diagnostic test: The multi function switch is giving erroneous inputs to the lamp control module. The multi function switch needs replacing. After the technician checked into the parts (MFS), he found this is a common problem with this vehicle. There is no recall on this, there is a back order on these parts, due to the high replacement rate. During the diagnostic testing he found device failures or shorts that are found to be constant and reproducible during a normal road test or while the vehicle is just sitting (parked). The cost quoted me to replace this part was $854.56 and from another repair shop $532.00. This is why I need input. There is clearly a huge price difference here. :sick:
The switch is not bad, there is simply too much grease on the rotating assembly. Paying big $$$ to effect this repair just means it's going to happen again. There are instructions posted here, or a link to explicit instructions on how to clean your switch, using $20 in contact cleaner/compressed air, assuming you are at all mechanical. Do a search.
My 95 ended up having a bad ign. switch in the column, for those who have had the 'no crank' prob. No 'clean key' message, VATTS code, bad fuses or bad grounds under the rear seat. Early symptom was a one second delay in the engine starting to turn over after the key had been turned to start. 2 hours labor at the dealer and the GM part lists for over $200. Bargained for a 10% disc. on the part. I really didn't want to go through the corner dude wanting to do the starter and 'noid, and then try this and that.......
Earlier I had posted a message in reference to bad coil packs (re: message # 2917). this is what I have found out:
Problem 1... smoke: the smoke is actually from an oil leak that just developed. What happens is that the oil is leaking onto the catalytic converter and thus is being burned off.
Problem 2... rough idle: The rough idle I have determined, along with a mechanically inclined friend of mine, is from using 87 octane vs. 93 octane fuel which is recommend by the owner's manual. We have burned out the lower octane fuel and have dumped in 93 octane fuel in hopes of getting rid of the rough idle. We also noticed that it started to ping a little, but is not constant which the owner's manual said it will do. After this tank of gas we figure it will correct itself once the higher octane fuel has had time to go through the system. This happened to me in my 1995 Dakota years ago and it took 2 weeks to stop pinging and the rough idle. Only time will tell!
Tomorrow I turn the car in for two safety recalls: the fuel rail and back seat belts.
The pinging has stopped now in the Aurora, but the rough idle remains. Though I must say that once I switched back to 93 the idle isn't AS rough. Still rough though!
The fuel rail and back seat belts are both bad and the parts are on order at the dealer. This is part of the factory recall which is covered by the dealer (thank god).
Comments
the only thing is that my dash lights are out only when I turn on my head lamps.
I would like to know if there is a simple fix for the dash lights. I noticed you mentioned something about the fuse under the seat. I'll have to check into that.
Also, when I disconnected the battery, the radio has the anti-theft lock... anyone know if there is a factory reset code? If so what is it? My father just gave me the car today and he wasn't aware of any set code right off hand.
Thanks for your help!
If you do however, there are four fuses that could be involved. I/P 1 (10 amp), I/P 2 (10 amp), and INT LP (20 amp) are all under the rear seat; they are not likely the source of your problem because they do not connect (at least not directly) to lamps. There is a 10-amp fuse labeled INT LP located in the panel to the left of the steering column behind a rectangular door that can be seen when the driver's door is open. If there is a fuse problem, this one is most likely it. There are also two dimming modules mounted on either side of the steering column below the instrument panel. I would look at the dimming wheel first. This info comes from my '97 factory service manual; there are some differences compared to '95.
Radio THEFTLOCK: my service manual mentions a "factory backup code." I'm sure GM protects these strongly. I imagine that you will need to go to a GM dealer or ACDelco radio repair shop with your VIN. They may not give you the code, but require that they unlock the radio for you (at a charge, of course).
Enjoy your father's Oldsmobile and let us know how you make out.
Les
There seems to be a whole lot of little things that I need to fix, but I'm not really complaining since the price was right (free) and afterall, the car does have over 172,000 miles on it! I think I can get another 40k or so. New tranny and new A/C... not too bad.
One thing is for sure, it gets better gas mileage than my 4.8 liter 2000 Chevy Silverado!
Thanks for all of your help!
I was patient (for a change) and it just turned off today!
Probably 30 starts or so.
When it did, I could not control the air using the knobs. The steering column
control still worked. Dealership said it was likely the control head and would
cost $1000 to fix. A light tap on the temp knobs would temporarily cure it.
This weekend I pulled the control head (pretty easy) and took it apart (6 torx screws) . I found 8 (2watt??) resistors on the circuit board with the main connecter all had broken solder joints. Maybe the thermal ramps in Colorado stressed the joints. Anyway a quick solder job and know it works great!
kenj1
That is the first thing I would check...
--Robert
Problem. Your front number didn't match what I ordered. I had subscribed to that AllData site. Man I dislike it. Hard as heck to find what you are looking for as many of the links seem to lead you in circles and constantly confuse with general crap you might find in a separate chapter if you were looking a paper. Drill down method to what you want seems inconsistant as if everytime a stupid search engine were involved.
But anyway for my 96, After 45 minutes to refind the info, it gives the same part number Rock Auto does for the front.AFS109. BTW, wasn't happy with GMParts direct shipping policy. What year is yours?
Thanks for those who input the console trick. I knew I had a major leak near the rear of the case on the left side. Thought maybe the case split there and maybe someone had changed that lower left motor and didn't get it quite right. Major tear into it to get a look. Finally pulled center console and all center dash components. Really tough getting that duct off the plenum for left side and center vents. The gasket behind it was totally misplaced. Also several others were loose or misplaced and a product called seals all does a good job. So hopefully getting the proper amount of air circulating will be a big help.
I would never have found that shift knob pin. And some idiot spilled so much sugary liquid it pretty much glued that wood panel into the console. So be careful and patient when trying to remove. There is no telling what extra problems you will find including lots of change and sugar packets.
On the bad side again, the wires to the shift knob were already broke, two places, above and below the slide panel they go through. But is it only two wires for the light and transmission switch?
Is there only two wires for the light and transmission switch on the knob?
Sounds like it really is.
Turns out the foam gasket for that right side main duct is also very badly misplaced. Pretty certain this is somones work as most of the gasket was running across the middle of the ducts hole on both ducts. This now brings into question what might be hidden in the area of the recirculate door.
HELP!
But now that I know the wiring is fixed, can barely wait to try it. Broken wire yields normal position. Vroom!
And also who is the idiot engineer calling out for such cheap wire that it breaks at flex points. Lets see, since it has to be a safety issue in order to force a recall, door wiring breaks, you can't adjust rear view mirrors. Isn't there a law requiring the mirror's? For those with broken door wiring, maybe its time to contact NHTSA.
And since I have another vehicle that has the same issue, only it shorts out the third brake light wiring taking all brake lights. Maybe they will look into it as an industry problem.
Les
Why are you replying to 4 year old messages?
Not shifting out of second for a 95-96 Aurora is 99% caused by bad shift solenoids. Replacement is a few hundred dollars, nothing like needing an overhaul.
Les
It seems that the stock radio has a somewhat funny shape. On Crutchfield all of their radios require modifying the mounting area (I am almost certain the bezel will have to be cut).
If anyone on here has an aftermarket radio in their Aurora, let me know how it works with the steering wheel controls and how many modifications had to be made.
Thanks!
I've never heard mine. Where are you when you hear it? Is it continuous? Might the sound you hear be from the air pump for the rear shocks? I do hear that one occasionally.
Les
Your mechanic may be right. I'll check tomorrow for fuel pump sound.
I replaced my fuel pump last year at 115,000 miles. Preventive maintenance, as I did not want to compete with Henri with his experience of fuel pump failure in the Holland Tunnel. The other reason I replaced was the sender had not been working right for several months.
Les
Is there some shortcuts I should be aware of?
AllData says something about removing bolt from left trans mount.
What did you have to do? Jack the engine far enough to get the mount plate off the idler stud? Or did you try to shift the engine rearward (to left fender)??
I'm most of the way apart, but can't get the mounts out of the way. All nuts and bolts removed.
My first thought was to check your fuel rails, but I see that's already been replaced.
NAPA, didn't fair a whole lot better, but at least the bearing appears sealed. First, one of them was not seated far enough into the pulley. The design is not at all like the original and included a insert saying if the original washer don't fit, through it away. So my faith in NAPA is fading fast. And also the bearing in the idler pulley, not tensioner, is much smaller. I can only guess how long the life.
For those attempting this job, AllData says to remove the pin from the left (front)
transmission mount. And then I had to almost jack the engine out of the car. Two jacks, one to remove wheel, one under oil pan with large sturdy peice of wood near crankshaft end. Also suggest removing the coil pack and of course watch for any other interference. Don't want to break more than you fix.
If for some strange unknown reason, say I threw the new belt a year from now, worse yet on the road and found that the mechanic said he had to pull the mount in order to put a new belt on. So much for NAPA quality.
I am looking at a '99 Aurora with 63K miles. What issues/problems should I be aware of? Anything in particular that I should be looking for? All the electrical systems work fine, but there was some tapping coming from the engine on start up. I think it was cold because after the drive it was better. Is this common with the 4.0 or should I be wary?
Any help is greatly appreciated. I have always liked the Aurora and now I have the opportunity to get my dream car.
Thanks,
Jerry
If the valve stays open the symptoms will be rough idle or stalling at idle, and hesitation on acceleration.
Does this sound like the issue? Has anyone else had this issue?
How difficult is it to replace the coil packs? Is it a possible DIY job? Please advise... thanks!
Man, this car is HIGH-maintenance!
IF the coils do need to be replaced, it is not a difficult job. Each one is held in place by two screws that thread into the ignition module. You will need a socket with extension or a nut driver (I forget the hex size). Biggest danger is dropping the screws and not being able to retrieve them. There ar two plug wires on each coil. The coils plug into the ignition module. My '97 is running on its original coils at 124,000 miles (knock on wood).
Les
I was told originally my multi function switch is defective in my 1999 Oldsmobile Aurora. These are the results of the diagnostic test:
The multi function switch is giving erroneous inputs to the lamp control module. The multi function switch needs replacing. After the technician checked into the parts (MFS), he found this is a common problem with this vehicle. There is no recall on this, there is a back order on these parts, due to the high replacement rate. During the diagnostic testing he found device failures or shorts that are found to be constant and reproducible during a normal road test or while the vehicle is just sitting (parked). The cost quoted me to replace this part was $854.56 and from another repair shop $532.00. This is why I need input. There is clearly a huge price difference here. :sick:
--Robert
Problem 1... smoke: the smoke is actually from an oil leak that just developed. What happens is that the oil is leaking onto the catalytic converter and thus is being burned off.
Problem 2... rough idle: The rough idle I have determined, along with a mechanically inclined friend of mine, is from using 87 octane vs. 93 octane fuel which is recommend by the owner's manual. We have burned out the lower octane fuel and have dumped in 93 octane fuel in hopes of getting rid of the rough idle. We also noticed that it started to ping a little, but is not constant which the owner's manual said it will do. After this tank of gas we figure it will correct itself once the higher octane fuel has had time to go through the system. This happened to me in my 1995 Dakota years ago and it took 2 weeks to stop pinging and the rough idle. Only time will tell!
Tomorrow I turn the car in for two safety recalls: the fuel rail and back seat belts.
Stay tuned!
The fuel rail and back seat belts are both bad and the parts are on order at the dealer. This is part of the factory recall which is covered by the dealer (thank god).
HIGH MAINT RIDE!!!