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Comments
the only thing is that my dash lights are out only when I turn on my head lamps.
I would like to know if there is a simple fix for the dash lights. I noticed you mentioned something about the fuse under the seat. I'll have to check into that.
Also, when I disconnected the battery, the radio has the anti-theft lock... anyone know if there is a factory reset code? If so what is it? My father just gave me the car today and he wasn't aware of any set code right off hand.
Thanks for your help!
If you do however, there are four fuses that could be involved. I/P 1 (10 amp), I/P 2 (10 amp), and INT LP (20 amp) are all under the rear seat; they are not likely the source of your problem because they do not connect (at least not directly) to lamps. There is a 10-amp fuse labeled INT LP located in the panel to the left of the steering column behind a rectangular door that can be seen when the driver's door is open. If there is a fuse problem, this one is most likely it. There are also two dimming modules mounted on either side of the steering column below the instrument panel. I would look at the dimming wheel first. This info comes from my '97 factory service manual; there are some differences compared to '95.
Radio THEFTLOCK: my service manual mentions a "factory backup code." I'm sure GM protects these strongly. I imagine that you will need to go to a GM dealer or ACDelco radio repair shop with your VIN. They may not give you the code, but require that they unlock the radio for you (at a charge, of course).
Enjoy your father's Oldsmobile and let us know how you make out.
Les
There seems to be a whole lot of little things that I need to fix, but I'm not really complaining since the price was right (free) and afterall, the car does have over 172,000 miles on it! I think I can get another 40k or so. New tranny and new A/C... not too bad.
One thing is for sure, it gets better gas mileage than my 4.8 liter 2000 Chevy Silverado!
Thanks for all of your help!
I was patient (for a change) and it just turned off today!
Probably 30 starts or so.
When it did, I could not control the air using the knobs. The steering column
control still worked. Dealership said it was likely the control head and would
cost $1000 to fix. A light tap on the temp knobs would temporarily cure it.
This weekend I pulled the control head (pretty easy) and took it apart (6 torx screws) . I found 8 (2watt??) resistors on the circuit board with the main connecter all had broken solder joints. Maybe the thermal ramps in Colorado stressed the joints. Anyway a quick solder job and know it works great!
kenj1
That is the first thing I would check...
--Robert
Problem. Your front number didn't match what I ordered. I had subscribed to that AllData site. Man I dislike it. Hard as heck to find what you are looking for as many of the links seem to lead you in circles and constantly confuse with general crap you might find in a separate chapter if you were looking a paper. Drill down method to what you want seems inconsistant as if everytime a stupid search engine were involved.
But anyway for my 96, After 45 minutes to refind the info, it gives the same part number Rock Auto does for the front.AFS109. BTW, wasn't happy with GMParts direct shipping policy. What year is yours?
Thanks for those who input the console trick. I knew I had a major leak near the rear of the case on the left side. Thought maybe the case split there and maybe someone had changed that lower left motor and didn't get it quite right. Major tear into it to get a look. Finally pulled center console and all center dash components. Really tough getting that duct off the plenum for left side and center vents. The gasket behind it was totally misplaced. Also several others were loose or misplaced and a product called seals all does a good job. So hopefully getting the proper amount of air circulating will be a big help.
I would never have found that shift knob pin. And some idiot spilled so much sugary liquid it pretty much glued that wood panel into the console. So be careful and patient when trying to remove. There is no telling what extra problems you will find including lots of change and sugar packets.
On the bad side again, the wires to the shift knob were already broke, two places, above and below the slide panel they go through. But is it only two wires for the light and transmission switch?
Is there only two wires for the light and transmission switch on the knob?
Sounds like it really is.
Turns out the foam gasket for that right side main duct is also very badly misplaced. Pretty certain this is somones work as most of the gasket was running across the middle of the ducts hole on both ducts. This now brings into question what might be hidden in the area of the recirculate door.
HELP!
But now that I know the wiring is fixed, can barely wait to try it. Broken wire yields normal position. Vroom!
And also who is the idiot engineer calling out for such cheap wire that it breaks at flex points. Lets see, since it has to be a safety issue in order to force a recall, door wiring breaks, you can't adjust rear view mirrors. Isn't there a law requiring the mirror's? For those with broken door wiring, maybe its time to contact NHTSA.
And since I have another vehicle that has the same issue, only it shorts out the third brake light wiring taking all brake lights. Maybe they will look into it as an industry problem.
Les
Why are you replying to 4 year old messages?
Not shifting out of second for a 95-96 Aurora is 99% caused by bad shift solenoids. Replacement is a few hundred dollars, nothing like needing an overhaul.
Les
It seems that the stock radio has a somewhat funny shape. On Crutchfield all of their radios require modifying the mounting area (I am almost certain the bezel will have to be cut).
If anyone on here has an aftermarket radio in their Aurora, let me know how it works with the steering wheel controls and how many modifications had to be made.
Thanks!
I've never heard mine. Where are you when you hear it? Is it continuous? Might the sound you hear be from the air pump for the rear shocks? I do hear that one occasionally.
Les
Your mechanic may be right. I'll check tomorrow for fuel pump sound.
I replaced my fuel pump last year at 115,000 miles. Preventive maintenance, as I did not want to compete with Henri with his experience of fuel pump failure in the Holland Tunnel. The other reason I replaced was the sender had not been working right for several months.
Les
Is there some shortcuts I should be aware of?
AllData says something about removing bolt from left trans mount.
What did you have to do? Jack the engine far enough to get the mount plate off the idler stud? Or did you try to shift the engine rearward (to left fender)??
I'm most of the way apart, but can't get the mounts out of the way. All nuts and bolts removed.
My first thought was to check your fuel rails, but I see that's already been replaced.
NAPA, didn't fair a whole lot better, but at least the bearing appears sealed. First, one of them was not seated far enough into the pulley. The design is not at all like the original and included a insert saying if the original washer don't fit, through it away. So my faith in NAPA is fading fast. And also the bearing in the idler pulley, not tensioner, is much smaller. I can only guess how long the life.
For those attempting this job, AllData says to remove the pin from the left (front)
transmission mount. And then I had to almost jack the engine out of the car. Two jacks, one to remove wheel, one under oil pan with large sturdy peice of wood near crankshaft end. Also suggest removing the coil pack and of course watch for any other interference. Don't want to break more than you fix.
If for some strange unknown reason, say I threw the new belt a year from now, worse yet on the road and found that the mechanic said he had to pull the mount in order to put a new belt on. So much for NAPA quality.
I am looking at a '99 Aurora with 63K miles. What issues/problems should I be aware of? Anything in particular that I should be looking for? All the electrical systems work fine, but there was some tapping coming from the engine on start up. I think it was cold because after the drive it was better. Is this common with the 4.0 or should I be wary?
Any help is greatly appreciated. I have always liked the Aurora and now I have the opportunity to get my dream car.
Thanks,
Jerry
If the valve stays open the symptoms will be rough idle or stalling at idle, and hesitation on acceleration.
Does this sound like the issue? Has anyone else had this issue?
How difficult is it to replace the coil packs? Is it a possible DIY job? Please advise... thanks!
Man, this car is HIGH-maintenance!
IF the coils do need to be replaced, it is not a difficult job. Each one is held in place by two screws that thread into the ignition module. You will need a socket with extension or a nut driver (I forget the hex size). Biggest danger is dropping the screws and not being able to retrieve them. There ar two plug wires on each coil. The coils plug into the ignition module. My '97 is running on its original coils at 124,000 miles (knock on wood).
Les
I was told originally my multi function switch is defective in my 1999 Oldsmobile Aurora. These are the results of the diagnostic test:
The multi function switch is giving erroneous inputs to the lamp control module. The multi function switch needs replacing. After the technician checked into the parts (MFS), he found this is a common problem with this vehicle. There is no recall on this, there is a back order on these parts, due to the high replacement rate. During the diagnostic testing he found device failures or shorts that are found to be constant and reproducible during a normal road test or while the vehicle is just sitting (parked). The cost quoted me to replace this part was $854.56 and from another repair shop $532.00. This is why I need input. There is clearly a huge price difference here. :sick:
--Robert
Problem 1... smoke: the smoke is actually from an oil leak that just developed. What happens is that the oil is leaking onto the catalytic converter and thus is being burned off.
Problem 2... rough idle: The rough idle I have determined, along with a mechanically inclined friend of mine, is from using 87 octane vs. 93 octane fuel which is recommend by the owner's manual. We have burned out the lower octane fuel and have dumped in 93 octane fuel in hopes of getting rid of the rough idle. We also noticed that it started to ping a little, but is not constant which the owner's manual said it will do. After this tank of gas we figure it will correct itself once the higher octane fuel has had time to go through the system. This happened to me in my 1995 Dakota years ago and it took 2 weeks to stop pinging and the rough idle. Only time will tell!
Tomorrow I turn the car in for two safety recalls: the fuel rail and back seat belts.
Stay tuned!
The fuel rail and back seat belts are both bad and the parts are on order at the dealer. This is part of the factory recall which is covered by the dealer (thank god).
HIGH MAINT RIDE!!!