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Comments
I have spent nearly $1000.00 to have dealer determine the problem with no luck.
Anyone have a similar experience? If so what was the issue.
I would try to troubleshoot/pinpoint this further, to see if an idling car (on a hot day) will just die.
How many miles on the car? Had the plugs, wires, Fuel Pressure Regular replaced, cleaned out the throttle body? Checked out the EGR valve?
--Robert
Thanks.
Michael
Thanks,
Nick
In May the A/C started not being as cold...or what I thought. So I took it in and the refrig. was low, they refilled it with the oil change for around $100. Figured we were okay. Last week had it in for another oil change, tires rotated, and tranny flush. I was being good with prevent. maintenance after reading the posts. The previous May I also had the coolant flushed. Replaced the FPR myself last month.
So, I take it in and they call me at work and say the A/C is shelled out. So, I figured since we were doing a new compressor might as well replace the water pump and belt since we are down there. Would you all have done that? The mechanic told me it was $400 to get at that stuff anyways, so I figured I might as well. The throttle body was sticky so had that done as well.
Here is the detailed bill and prices for all to tell me if I got a good deal or ripped off.
Labor $282.64
Compressor with Warranty $619.84
R134 Refill $ 22.95
Pump Kit with Warranty $ 85.51
Belt for Water Pump $ 13.91
Gaskets (2) $ 14.12
Throttle Body Flush with Zak $65.00 (labor)
Intake Cleaner $8.50
Labor $347.64
Parts $764.85
Total with Tax $1179.59
This was at the local GM dealer in Lincoln Nebraska...Husker Auto.
I'm thinking of doing the plugs and wires next, and I should be done with prevent. maintenance for a while. Tires next spring. Maybe front shocks. I'm glad I'm going to pharmacy school so I have some money to pay for this car! This might have to be a school expense with loan money.
Good deal at the dealership?
Greg
I guess this is a guide book that you physically have. I was wondering, is there any way you could send me that page? Also- does this book list where you can buy this part or anything? I am anxious on getting this trim piece fixed. Thanks again.
Thanks alot
I have a 2001 oldsmobile Aurora 3.5 and the check engine light came on.Now it will take between 15 and 20 seconds for my car to start I will keep turning the key until it starts not letting go. Cause if I let it go I will have to keep doing it. It will turn over fine.After the car runs it runs fine its just the starting.I brought it to autozone and they said it was a secondary air sensor. Then they said its called a secondary shut off valve.They said there are a right and a left sensor. Then just yesterday when the car started a small cloud of white smoke came out so I called a shop and they told me it was something with the air and gas mixture. My question is where are these sensors and are they easy to change? I already posted this before but now I was wondering if someone can show me where they are located...
As to where these sensors are, sorry, I don't have any diagrams. Perhaps you can post over in the Maintenance and Repair discussion? Or else, perhaps you should invest in a subscription to
http://www.alldatadiy.com - you can pay per car, per year to get the schematics/how-to's.
--Robert
Hope this helps,
--Robert
Im haveing the same problem wont start with the first or second time . I read in here that the most common is the FPR i change it my self and was very easy 5 min job.For 3 days it stared nice after the 3 day same problem wont start with the first or second sometimes. My mecanich saw that and he read from the compiuter that u have a bad KEY ,, but he said 99 %is not the Key is the PCM something like this,i just asking maybe somebody in here got this problem before and could give some advise
Don't forget to check for vac leaks for a possible cause of long cranking times although the FPR is usually the cause.
What would happen with the vac leak?
If the car's not cranking at all, it's probably the key or ignition switch (PASS-KEY, can't read the resistor on the key).
The PCM is the Powertrain Control Module, i.e. the primary engine computer. A bad/flaky PCM could be the cause of many problems, but be aware that it's an expensive repair, and probably best done after other troubleshooting methods have been attempted. At least make sure ahead of time that you don't have to pay for the PCM if changing it doesn't change the problems...
--Robert
--Robert
So my battery died and I took it to my mechanic. He thought he had fixed it by replacing a "watch clock" and securing some loose wires in the dash. It didn't fix it. So he kept it for two more weeks. Went through the entire dash, called other mechanics, etc. After two weeks he gave me my $700 back and said the only thing he could suggest is to go to a dealer and have them "hang parts" off it until they figured out what was wrong.
This guy has been my mechanic for years, and he's good and I trust him. He's not some guy in his garage either, he has a full team of certified mechanics. So for him to give me a full refund says something to me.
Anyone ever heard of this problem before? I am not looking forward to giving my car to a dealer and saying "I have no clue"....who knows what the bill will be. But as-is I can't sell the car (which I was about to do...dumb luck).
Bo
This disassembly and cleaning will definitely fix your problem.
--Robert
Bo
Again a case of the mechanic being the worst medicine. It took me a couple of hours to clean up and try to replace missing seals. The connectors wet with oil were absolutely filthy. The oil wouldn't have been a problem, maybe! But the fine grit, sand, and evidence of "black death" contamination was there when I flushed the lines. OK, so instead of getting right to the system I sweated away a couple of hours this morning cleaning up and hunting seals. But I get hooked . What is this? Only 60# of pressure on low side and it is almost 90 degrees. Actually it started with about 30 until I gave the guage a good tap. And the high only went up to 150 once I fired it up.
Took the guages themselves off my R12 manifold and tried again. Still seemed a little low until I pushed the A/C to high in the heat of the day and then I was seeing around 200# with low hanging around 50. Upon reving the engine up, the low climbed to about 60# and the high climbed to about 275#. This pressure doesn't seem right to me. But that was a heavy load. Cutting the fan back to low and allowing the car to cool, at idle, it would occaisonally cycle. Cut out about 33 and on about 46. But very hot and dehydrated I decided to take a break late afternoon.
A couple of hours later I step out by the car and the lights were flashing and it was making weird sounds. I was nowhere near anything that should have caused it. I managed to get it most of the way apart and then the light bulb blew. That is it for tonight.
But I still seek info on the air. I think I might need to get at the evaporator to make sure nothing got sucked up and blown against, partially blocking the evaporator.
And when I dropped the lower panel for the lighting problem, I find something that I have know idea what it is. Someone did another butcher of some sort. There is a little flat connector screwed to the edge of the panel with about 6 wires. The other ends were obviously push-spliced to something and two of the wires go to a relay. Anyone have knowledge of what this might have been?
Problem I have here is I can't find the underhood decal. Does anyone know the amount required for a 96?
Also does anyone know which compressor GM uses on this vehicle?
The claims are improved cooling in stop and go traffic, lower compressor load at such conditions, lower emissions (better fuel economy), and extended compressor life.
I presume that the 96 would not have implemented this device. Has anyone done the conversion?
Still would like to find a cheap set of manuals or CD's.
I have wondered if this system is the same as the Caddy ATC? If so, I haven't been able to get it to read out the codes by pressing off and temp increase simultaneously. But it does appear to use the temperature sensing clutch cycling switch versus the low pressure switch commonly employed.
Comments and help needed.
what a MISTER hammen?
Maybe that is what is in the switch and with time it has spread to undesireable areas. As to the contact cleaners (aerosol) some have chemicals designed to remove corrosion from contacts and simultaneously lubricate. I suspect in this case you want it non-conductive. And with that application and simultaneously turning the switch rapidly back and forth it suddenly stopped acting up. Note switch has to be in off position to know.
I noticed the contacts of the relay appeared blackened. This might also be a silver contact and a little oxidation there as well so I sprayed them too.
I didn't bother with the air because this cleaner was highly evaporative. I recommend caution when first starting the use of the cleaner. Some have solvents which might melt the plastic housing or other components. Definitely test carefully before flooding.
Just checked, still behaving itself, so maybe back to the A/C.
Other than my dad (joke), a "mister" is a spray bottle set to mist, rather than spray a jet... you just want to get a little water on the plug wires when the car is running, to see if there is any sparking (if so, wires are toast).
--Robert
I now have to question how to get to the blend door as well as the evaporator? And how do I check them?
StickKing are you around?
1. With the ignition on, press the Select right arrow button on the DIC to OIL so the OIL LIFE percentage is displayed.
2. Press Reset and hold for five seconds. OIL LIFE XXX% will appear and when the button is released OIL LIFE 100% will be displayed.
I'll try your suggestion.
Thanks a lot