Yes, I had a mechanic that specialized in the electronics field install a switch to the high speed fan side. I had this done on my '95 and my '97. I have since sold my '95. On the '95 it worked great without turning my check engine light on. On the '97 when we use it it turns the check engine light on. It will eventually go out when you turn the ignition off. As soon as I see the temp. gauge get to the mark above the 200 deg. I flip the switch and it starts cooling down. I haven't posted on this board for some time since I sold my '95. I drove it and my wife drives the '97. She still drives the '97 and I drive the vehicle we purchased about a year ago. Worst thing I ever did was to sell that '95. I hope this helps. Sorry I'm so late in answering you concern.
I own a 97 Aurora I purchased new. It has developed a serious problem. When the outside temp gets into the 80's it will just stop running. It makes no difference if your going 30mph or 70mph. If we just let car set for a few minutes it will start again. Then stop. the cycle just repeats itself. This does not occur in cooler temps.
I have spent nearly $1000.00 to have dealer determine the problem with no luck.
Anyone have a similar experience? If so what was the issue.
Any way to run the car and watch the temperature gauge? See if it's stalling when it hits a certain temp? There are 2 high-speed cooling fans on the Aurora. The second doesn't come on until the temp gauge goes over 230. Wonder if somehow the car is dying when the second fan comes on.
I would try to troubleshoot/pinpoint this further, to see if an idling car (on a hot day) will just die.
How many miles on the car? Had the plugs, wires, Fuel Pressure Regular replaced, cleaned out the throttle body? Checked out the EGR valve?
The car has 137000 miles on it. I did the 100,000 mile tune up. They changed wires, plugs etc. I do not know about the other items I will check. The fuel pump was replaced under warranty. I can not speak to the pressure regulator.
Hi, I have this dented piece of trim on the right side of the driver's side window. I am trying to find a replacement piece, but have found no luck. If anyone knows what the part might be called, that would be great. A link to a photo of what I am talking about is here.
In May the A/C started not being as cold...or what I thought. So I took it in and the refrig. was low, they refilled it with the oil change for around $100. Figured we were okay. Last week had it in for another oil change, tires rotated, and tranny flush. I was being good with prevent. maintenance after reading the posts. The previous May I also had the coolant flushed. Replaced the FPR myself last month.
So, I take it in and they call me at work and say the A/C is shelled out. So, I figured since we were doing a new compressor might as well replace the water pump and belt since we are down there. Would you all have done that? The mechanic told me it was $400 to get at that stuff anyways, so I figured I might as well. The throttle body was sticky so had that done as well. Here is the detailed bill and prices for all to tell me if I got a good deal or ripped off.
Labor $282.64 Compressor with Warranty $619.84 R134 Refill $ 22.95 Pump Kit with Warranty $ 85.51 Belt for Water Pump $ 13.91 Gaskets (2) $ 14.12
Throttle Body Flush with Zak $65.00 (labor) Intake Cleaner $8.50
Labor $347.64 Parts $764.85
Total with Tax $1179.59
This was at the local GM dealer in Lincoln Nebraska...Husker Auto.
I'm thinking of doing the plugs and wires next, and I should be done with prevent. maintenance for a while. Tires next spring. Maybe front shocks. I'm glad I'm going to pharmacy school so I have some money to pay for this car! This might have to be a school expense with loan money.
In the Mitchell Collision Estimating Guide, that part is listed as the "Front Frame Applique". Its listed under the Front Door - Exterior Trim. Part Number in the guide is 25717736
I guess this is a guide book that you physically have. I was wondering, is there any way you could send me that page? Also- does this book list where you can buy this part or anything? I am anxious on getting this trim piece fixed. Thanks again.
A lot of folks on this forum have had good experiences buying from gmpartsdirect.com. I believe there is a similar parts guide online there. This part would be available from them or any GM dealer parts department.
I am a new member of this forum and own a 1999 Aurora. From your descritption I am experiencing the same issue you are describing. I tried to go to the website that you suggested but it does not seem to want to work for me. I would like to know more about this multifunction switch that you mentioned in your post. Looking forward to hearing from you. My e-mail is jmuncy@bellsouth.net. I would appreciate any help you could give. My lights flash even when the switch is in the off position and everything is cut off. I am perplexed. It is so bad that I have to disconnect the battery cable just to keep the lights from draining the battery. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.
Go to Google and type "Aurora Multifunction switch" and you'll get a detailed description of a cheap fix for the problem. I share the same problem, but instead of unhooking the battery, I just open the fuse panel on the side of the dash by the drivers door and pull the 3 fuses on the right side of the cluster. That keeps the lights from flickering and my battery from draining...until I get around to a fix.
How true, and a bad plug as well. The secondary of the coil is throwing a high voltage designed to jump a gap. And it seeks ground, usually through the plugs. It will take the path of least resistance which could be a break in wire shorting out or even internally to the coil if nothing better is available. This might even fry the control module.
Actually, turns out the starter was fine... the problem was in the wire connecting the starter to the battery. It was corroded pretty bad, and I guess just wasnt' letting enough juice through. That starter is a pain to get to, but everything seems to be going well now.
Here is the problem... I have a 2001 oldsmobile Aurora 3.5 and the check engine light came on.Now it will take between 15 and 20 seconds for my car to start I will keep turning the key until it starts not letting go. Cause if I let it go I will have to keep doing it. It will turn over fine.After the car runs it runs fine its just the starting.I brought it to autozone and they said it was a secondary air sensor. Then they said its called a secondary shut off valve.They said there are a right and a left sensor. Then just yesterday when the car started a small cloud of white smoke came out so I called a shop and they told me it was something with the air and gas mixture. My question is where are these sensors and are they easy to change? I already posted this before but now I was wondering if someone can show me where they are located...
$528! Yipes. Had it replaced w/WarrantyGold 2 years ago at the dealer and it cracked again. gotta pay for it now. Anyone with a 95 use an aftermarket rad successfully? It seems the 95 is diff. (what's new) and has plastic tanks and engine oil cooler. Alot of the afterm. list 1 rad for all 95-99s which can't be right, but others list one for 95-96 which makes sense. But I think GM lists even more for specific years (Autobn. diff?).
Have you had your crankshaft position sensors changed out? That's a common cause of a hard start/no start issue on the 3.5L "Shortstar" and the 2001-2003 Aurora V8.
As to where these sensors are, sorry, I don't have any diagrams. Perhaps you can post over in the Maintenance and Repair discussion? Or else, perhaps you should invest in a subscription to http://www.alldatadiy.com - you can pay per car, per year to get the schematics/how-to's.
A mechanic just looked at it really quick and he said it was the Fuel pressure regulator or something like that. Can that be it? He pulled a real small hose off of something and a lil fuel came out and he said that was the problem. Does that sound right?
Well, that could be. The FPR is a little oil-can like contraption before the injectors. It's a common failure point on the "Classic" Auroras (hard/difficult starts, lots of cranking, especially when the car is warm) but this would be the first time I've heard of this happening on a 2001-2003 model. The FPR should be a $50 or so part, and it's a few minute install (if it's like the one on the 1995-1999, you need to pop open the gas cap to release pressure in the fuel system, remove the engine cover, remove the line from the FPR and un-twist it to remove it. Put the new one in, being extremely careful of the small rubber O-ring (make sure the old one came out, if there is one - compare the old one and the new one to double-check), then just attach the fuel line, re-attach the engine cover (again, if necessary), and tighten the gas cap.
hi guys! Im haveing the same problem wont start with the first or second time . I read in here that the most common is the FPR i change it my self and was very easy 5 min job.For 3 days it stared nice after the 3 day same problem wont start with the first or second sometimes. My mecanich saw that and he read from the compiuter that u have a bad KEY ,, but he said 99 %is not the Key is the PCM something like this,i just asking maybe somebody in here got this problem before and could give some advise
Your ignition key has a built-in resistor that is read by the ignition switch when you insert the key. You can try to clean the key but many times the receiver in the ignition switch has worn due to the key going in and out so many times.
Don't forget to check for vac leaks for a possible cause of long cranking times although the FPR is usually the cause.
I have a 2001 Aurora, with 57K on it. The last 4 months have been a nightmare with this car and looking for any suggestions. Noticed in February that the inside of the car smelled like coolant, although the coolant was full. Also we noticed that when we would start the car you could almost hear a bubbling/gurgling sound. Started to then notice that when we would drive it up a hill the temperature gage would rise almost to red, then drop down after we were on level ground. Took to a repair shop, they said heating core needed to be replaced. After that was replaced, it did not seem to resolve the problem, because check engine light would come on and temperature issues continued. We then took to a dealer, who said that he would flush engine coolant tank, and thought that this rising temperature problem could be caused by air that got into the lines, so he would bleed the line to get rid of the air. The day we took the car home from the dealer, the car's temperature got so hot, that we had to pull over on the side of road and wait for it to cool down. Another trip back to dealer, and a month of them having it we were told they replaced the cross over pipe and a couple head gaskets. So today after 3 weeks of having the car and taking it on "short trips" to work decided to take on an hour ride.....well, temperature was in the red...had to stop about 8 times for the car to cool down, and discovered that the coolant that was full yesterday is now empty....what can be causing these issues? Seems like check engine light is always on. I am taking back to dealer today, but at this point I feel trading it in. Problem is, bought this car used 3 years ago and still owe $$$...any recommendations???
i m having a problem with a jumpy tack on a 97, at idle it jumps from 750 to 2000 plus.More irretating than anything,it has to be something elet. trouble is it only happens sometimes???help
He did tell me that I have a vac leak so I dont know what to do...I am waiting for the mechanic to call me regarding the PCM thing. Would it fix the problem if I were to get a new key? What would happen with the vac leak?
I had a problem with difficult starting on my '98. Car wouldn't even crank, and the "security" light came on. Turned out to be the key - sprayed some contact cleaner on it, sprayed compressed air and a little contact cleaner into the keyswitch, and the problem hasn't returned.
If the car's not cranking at all, it's probably the key or ignition switch (PASS-KEY, can't read the resistor on the key).
The PCM is the Powertrain Control Module, i.e. the primary engine computer. A bad/flaky PCM could be the cause of many problems, but be aware that it's an expensive repair, and probably best done after other troubleshooting methods have been attempted. At least make sure ahead of time that you don't have to pay for the PCM if changing it doesn't change the problems...
Jumpy tach? I'd suspect bad plugs/plug wires, or a bad coil pack. Do the "mist test" - with the engine running, take a mister and spray the plug wires... if you get a fireworks show, it's definitely time to replace them. Make sure to use only AC Delco, as anyone who doesn't typically has problems... the Northstars seem to be VERY sensitive to non AC Delco plugs and wires...
We recently purchased a 2002 Aurora and are having the identical problem with our auto climate control. The air works when it wants..and when it wont come on we can't manually turn on anything...heat; air;defrost. In checking this site I found your posting from 2003 and am hoping you can tell me what you found to fix this! Thanks!
Update: the local 'Radiator Factory' can get either a Modine or Vistastar-or-something for $225 and almost found an AC Delco 214-54 for the same price but no one had one and seems to be disco'd due to price and part# crossover issues! Sounds like it was too cheap. I had 207-35 as the correct 95 Delco # while he came up with the second#. If anyone finds a 214-54 for a little over $200, check it out and see if it is correct! (Seems like GM almost let a cheap one get out!)
Since the windows only go down about 4" in the rear of the vehicle, I'm guessing this would be a child safety feature. Last week I had no A/C (blew hot, but now fixed) and to mention that the passenger's window won't even function anymore. So, the only windows I had were mine (drivers) and the stupid kiddie ones in the back, which provide almost no air! Even though this is not a problem to me anymore, I was wondering if there was a turn off with this feature, or if it is permanant. I don't see why they would do something like this, because it is really asinine. Any help would be great. Thanks in advance.
I have a '99 Aurora, and I have a problem that perplexed my trusted mechanic so much that he gave me back my $700 because he couldn't fix it. The car has daytime running lights, and a sensor to detect when the lights should turn on automatically. When driving, the lights flicker on and off. Worse, then the car is parked with no keys in it, the lights still turn on and off sporadically. If you sit in the car with the engine off and no keys you can hear a clicking noise in the dash. And if you open the driver door a bell will ring to remind you that you left your lights on. The only problem is they are on, but the light switch is on "off".
So my battery died and I took it to my mechanic. He thought he had fixed it by replacing a "watch clock" and securing some loose wires in the dash. It didn't fix it. So he kept it for two more weeks. Went through the entire dash, called other mechanics, etc. After two weeks he gave me my $700 back and said the only thing he could suggest is to go to a dealer and have them "hang parts" off it until they figured out what was wrong.
This guy has been my mechanic for years, and he's good and I trust him. He's not some guy in his garage either, he has a full team of certified mechanics. So for him to give me a full refund says something to me.
Anyone ever heard of this problem before? I am not looking forward to giving my car to a dealer and saying "I have no clue"....who knows what the bill will be. But as-is I can't sell the car (which I was about to do...dumb luck).
It's your turn signal stalk (which also handles your cruise control... and headlights). There's too much grease on the switch. This happens to about every Aurora. There is a simple fix. Use Google to search for "Aurora multifunction switch". You will find a complete description on how to remove and clean the switch. I can't give you a URL because it's on another site that has forums, and the Edmunds hosts will delete my post.
This disassembly and cleaning will definitely fix your problem.
Thanks Robert! I just took a look at the solution and it looks like it describes my problem exactly and how to fix it. Would have never thought I'd get the exact solution so fast. Really appreciate it!
I was by the board this morning still looking for details on my A/C. I got some gauges from someone I know. I read about the flashing light stuff, but no new A/C info. Again a case of the mechanic being the worst medicine. It took me a couple of hours to clean up and try to replace missing seals. The connectors wet with oil were absolutely filthy. The oil wouldn't have been a problem, maybe! But the fine grit, sand, and evidence of "black death" contamination was there when I flushed the lines. OK, so instead of getting right to the system I sweated away a couple of hours this morning cleaning up and hunting seals. But I get hooked . What is this? Only 60# of pressure on low side and it is almost 90 degrees. Actually it started with about 30 until I gave the guage a good tap. And the high only went up to 150 once I fired it up. Took the guages themselves off my R12 manifold and tried again. Still seemed a little low until I pushed the A/C to high in the heat of the day and then I was seeing around 200# with low hanging around 50. Upon reving the engine up, the low climbed to about 60# and the high climbed to about 275#. This pressure doesn't seem right to me. But that was a heavy load. Cutting the fan back to low and allowing the car to cool, at idle, it would occaisonally cycle. Cut out about 33 and on about 46. But very hot and dehydrated I decided to take a break late afternoon. A couple of hours later I step out by the car and the lights were flashing and it was making weird sounds. I was nowhere near anything that should have caused it. I managed to get it most of the way apart and then the light bulb blew. That is it for tonight. But I still seek info on the air. I think I might need to get at the evaporator to make sure nothing got sucked up and blown against, partially blocking the evaporator. And when I dropped the lower panel for the lighting problem, I find something that I have know idea what it is. Someone did another butcher of some sort. There is a little flat connector screwed to the edge of the panel with about 6 wires. The other ends were obviously push-spliced to something and two of the wires go to a relay. Anyone have knowledge of what this might have been?
I found a site that might be useful for A/C. It has a lot of general info. I learned something I didn't know. That is that the cold freon returning to the compressor is necessary for cooling it and keeping the compressor from burning up. This makes the charge level even more critical despite what one person tells me. Critical to the point that he claims his shop practice is to remove all freon and then charge in the exact amount shown on the system decal. Problem I have here is I can't find the underhood decal. Does anyone know the amount required for a 96? Also does anyone know which compressor GM uses on this vehicle?
While researching I came across a replacement for the FOT - fixed orifice tube, commonly used in most vehicles. It is called a VOV and available from several sources including NAPA & Four Seasons. The claims are improved cooling in stop and go traffic, lower compressor load at such conditions, lower emissions (better fuel economy), and extended compressor life. I presume that the 96 would not have implemented this device. Has anyone done the conversion? Still would like to find a cheap set of manuals or CD's. I have wondered if this system is the same as the Caddy ATC? If so, I haven't been able to get it to read out the codes by pressing off and temp increase simultaneously. But it does appear to use the temperature sensing clutch cycling switch versus the low pressure switch commonly employed. Comments and help needed.
Your rock with that idea. At first I had my doubts, but I guess I didn't understand the problem correctly. At least I hope I whipped it as it is OK for the moment. As to the procedure, it is very difficult to find anything small enough to go between the contacts of the relays. The only thing I could find was the tip of a small jewelers screw driver. That said I didn't grasp that it is the rotary portion of the combo switch that is the problem. Several sprayings didn't get it at first. I was lucky to have a can of tuner contact cleaner left over from many years ago. This was when TV's had a knob and click type tuner to change channels. The stuff used to be available in several varieties and some worked much better than others. Part of that might have been due to the type of contact. Cheap was copper on a rotary gang switch. Earlier models had silver and in some cases gold contacts. Sometimes a liberal dosing of lubri-plate grease would do the magic. But you have to be careful with using it where resistance is critical because it does conduct. This is the same stuff GM sells for contacts during the 80's and often used in the gear drive of outboards about that same time. Maybe that is what is in the switch and with time it has spread to undesireable areas. As to the contact cleaners (aerosol) some have chemicals designed to remove corrosion from contacts and simultaneously lubricate. I suspect in this case you want it non-conductive. And with that application and simultaneously turning the switch rapidly back and forth it suddenly stopped acting up. Note switch has to be in off position to know. I noticed the contacts of the relay appeared blackened. This might also be a silver contact and a little oxidation there as well so I sprayed them too.
I didn't bother with the air because this cleaner was highly evaporative. I recommend caution when first starting the use of the cleaner. Some have solvents which might melt the plastic housing or other components. Definitely test carefully before flooding. Just checked, still behaving itself, so maybe back to the A/C.
Added note that should get your attention if your cooling isn't satisfactory and these things work as advertised. They claim the cooling is so improved at idle and low speeds that even an R-12 conversion to 134 with this orifice tube cools better than the R-12.
Other than my dad (joke), a "mister" is a spray bottle set to mist, rather than spray a jet... you just want to get a little water on the plug wires when the car is running, to see if there is any sparking (if so, wires are toast).
I had no wiper delay control, so while I was working the ghost out of the flashing lights problem, I decided to check this. There are two separate modules mounted together under control of the stalk. One of them is a switch and the other acts like rheostat inside a small box. There are two wires connecting these modules together. The rheostat like, actually a stepped switch, is in the outer one. Spray didn't help this. But removing two torx screws makes a cover plate accessible. Drilling two rivets off enables swinging the cover out of the way. There is a metal wiper contact to choose the speed attached to a plastic gear driven by the control knob. The metal wiper is secured by melting the plastic pegs sticking up through two small holes in the base of the wiper. Apparently this one wasn't very good from the factory or had an age problem. Pushing the wiper back into position and using a plastic glue fixed the problem. Reassembled and I should have no more problems here.
I have been having problems intermittantly. While I had all this apart around the key module, I gave it a double check. The springy clip to hold the unit tightly is blued, and showed a little corrosion. Also the contact points showed that it might not be making good contact. I sprung the clip to put more pressure against the key module and also put lubriplate on the contact areas. While I had this spring clip out I noticed this lower forward area that wasn't making sense to me. A close inspection revealed that I had seen this as a terminal in a GM many years ago. Maybe one of the earlier door/key buzzer models. I don't see a missing wire. Also I lubed the tilt wheel pivot with lubriplate. Hopefully this will make this long time intermittant problem go away. If anyone knows there is supposed to be a positive ground wire hooked to that spade by the key, please post back.
I managed to get through what messages might have existed. Even though there seems to be a problem with the search engine, I eliminated much of the wrong info by including in the string "not Delco". I now have to question how to get to the blend door as well as the evaporator? And how do I check them? StickKing are you around?
I have a 2001 Aurora and the Low oil Pressure light comes on when i start it for the first time. It usually stays on a few minutes, goes out and doesn't come back on again until the next day when i'm starting the car again for the 1st time. I've had the oil changed recently and it's still occuring, anybody with any advice? i would really appreciate it. Thanks
I haven't seen this posted yet, but there is a kit that replaces the bulb assembly for the gear shift selector light. Mine on my '97 went out again, 13 months after the complete wiring harness was replaced by my extended warranty. This wiring harness is covered by warranty only for 12 months. It cost around $140 dollars to replace. The bulb assembly is much cheaper, $46. The part number from my invoice is 12027008 (socket). I know the classic's all had this problem.
Is this the light on the tach/speedometer dash board that is lighting up, or is it displaying on the message center thing in the middle? When you get the oil changed, are they resetting the system, because most of the time it doesnt recognize new oil on its own.
1. With the ignition on, press the Select right arrow button on the DIC to OIL so the OIL LIFE percentage is displayed. 2. Press Reset and hold for five seconds. OIL LIFE XXX% will appear and when the button is released OIL LIFE 100% will be displayed.
The oil lamp on the dash is coming on, as well as the message center says Low Oil Pressure. I just bought the car Tuesday and they changed the oil at the dealership so i would assume that they know that. I am taking it in Wednesday. I just wanted to make sure that there wasn't something simple i could do to try and stop it from happening.
Well as for the message center thing, those procedures should erase that. Most of the time the mechanic changing the oil will know what to do, but sometimes things just happen. He/she might not know, or they might have just forgotten to take care of it.
Comments
I have spent nearly $1000.00 to have dealer determine the problem with no luck.
Anyone have a similar experience? If so what was the issue.
I would try to troubleshoot/pinpoint this further, to see if an idling car (on a hot day) will just die.
How many miles on the car? Had the plugs, wires, Fuel Pressure Regular replaced, cleaned out the throttle body? Checked out the EGR valve?
--Robert
Thanks.
Michael
Thanks,
Nick
In May the A/C started not being as cold...or what I thought. So I took it in and the refrig. was low, they refilled it with the oil change for around $100. Figured we were okay. Last week had it in for another oil change, tires rotated, and tranny flush. I was being good with prevent. maintenance after reading the posts. The previous May I also had the coolant flushed. Replaced the FPR myself last month.
So, I take it in and they call me at work and say the A/C is shelled out. So, I figured since we were doing a new compressor might as well replace the water pump and belt since we are down there. Would you all have done that? The mechanic told me it was $400 to get at that stuff anyways, so I figured I might as well. The throttle body was sticky so had that done as well.
Here is the detailed bill and prices for all to tell me if I got a good deal or ripped off.
Labor $282.64
Compressor with Warranty $619.84
R134 Refill $ 22.95
Pump Kit with Warranty $ 85.51
Belt for Water Pump $ 13.91
Gaskets (2) $ 14.12
Throttle Body Flush with Zak $65.00 (labor)
Intake Cleaner $8.50
Labor $347.64
Parts $764.85
Total with Tax $1179.59
This was at the local GM dealer in Lincoln Nebraska...Husker Auto.
I'm thinking of doing the plugs and wires next, and I should be done with prevent. maintenance for a while. Tires next spring. Maybe front shocks. I'm glad I'm going to pharmacy school so I have some money to pay for this car! This might have to be a school expense with loan money.
Good deal at the dealership?
Greg
I guess this is a guide book that you physically have. I was wondering, is there any way you could send me that page? Also- does this book list where you can buy this part or anything? I am anxious on getting this trim piece fixed. Thanks again.
Thanks alot
I have a 2001 oldsmobile Aurora 3.5 and the check engine light came on.Now it will take between 15 and 20 seconds for my car to start I will keep turning the key until it starts not letting go. Cause if I let it go I will have to keep doing it. It will turn over fine.After the car runs it runs fine its just the starting.I brought it to autozone and they said it was a secondary air sensor. Then they said its called a secondary shut off valve.They said there are a right and a left sensor. Then just yesterday when the car started a small cloud of white smoke came out so I called a shop and they told me it was something with the air and gas mixture. My question is where are these sensors and are they easy to change? I already posted this before but now I was wondering if someone can show me where they are located...
As to where these sensors are, sorry, I don't have any diagrams. Perhaps you can post over in the Maintenance and Repair discussion? Or else, perhaps you should invest in a subscription to
http://www.alldatadiy.com - you can pay per car, per year to get the schematics/how-to's.
--Robert
Hope this helps,
--Robert
Im haveing the same problem wont start with the first or second time . I read in here that the most common is the FPR i change it my self and was very easy 5 min job.For 3 days it stared nice after the 3 day same problem wont start with the first or second sometimes. My mecanich saw that and he read from the compiuter that u have a bad KEY ,, but he said 99 %is not the Key is the PCM something like this,i just asking maybe somebody in here got this problem before and could give some advise
Don't forget to check for vac leaks for a possible cause of long cranking times although the FPR is usually the cause.
What would happen with the vac leak?
If the car's not cranking at all, it's probably the key or ignition switch (PASS-KEY, can't read the resistor on the key).
The PCM is the Powertrain Control Module, i.e. the primary engine computer. A bad/flaky PCM could be the cause of many problems, but be aware that it's an expensive repair, and probably best done after other troubleshooting methods have been attempted. At least make sure ahead of time that you don't have to pay for the PCM if changing it doesn't change the problems...
--Robert
--Robert
So my battery died and I took it to my mechanic. He thought he had fixed it by replacing a "watch clock" and securing some loose wires in the dash. It didn't fix it. So he kept it for two more weeks. Went through the entire dash, called other mechanics, etc. After two weeks he gave me my $700 back and said the only thing he could suggest is to go to a dealer and have them "hang parts" off it until they figured out what was wrong.
This guy has been my mechanic for years, and he's good and I trust him. He's not some guy in his garage either, he has a full team of certified mechanics. So for him to give me a full refund says something to me.
Anyone ever heard of this problem before? I am not looking forward to giving my car to a dealer and saying "I have no clue"....who knows what the bill will be. But as-is I can't sell the car (which I was about to do...dumb luck).
Bo
This disassembly and cleaning will definitely fix your problem.
--Robert
Bo
Again a case of the mechanic being the worst medicine. It took me a couple of hours to clean up and try to replace missing seals. The connectors wet with oil were absolutely filthy. The oil wouldn't have been a problem, maybe! But the fine grit, sand, and evidence of "black death" contamination was there when I flushed the lines. OK, so instead of getting right to the system I sweated away a couple of hours this morning cleaning up and hunting seals. But I get hooked . What is this? Only 60# of pressure on low side and it is almost 90 degrees. Actually it started with about 30 until I gave the guage a good tap. And the high only went up to 150 once I fired it up.
Took the guages themselves off my R12 manifold and tried again. Still seemed a little low until I pushed the A/C to high in the heat of the day and then I was seeing around 200# with low hanging around 50. Upon reving the engine up, the low climbed to about 60# and the high climbed to about 275#. This pressure doesn't seem right to me. But that was a heavy load. Cutting the fan back to low and allowing the car to cool, at idle, it would occaisonally cycle. Cut out about 33 and on about 46. But very hot and dehydrated I decided to take a break late afternoon.
A couple of hours later I step out by the car and the lights were flashing and it was making weird sounds. I was nowhere near anything that should have caused it. I managed to get it most of the way apart and then the light bulb blew. That is it for tonight.
But I still seek info on the air. I think I might need to get at the evaporator to make sure nothing got sucked up and blown against, partially blocking the evaporator.
And when I dropped the lower panel for the lighting problem, I find something that I have know idea what it is. Someone did another butcher of some sort. There is a little flat connector screwed to the edge of the panel with about 6 wires. The other ends were obviously push-spliced to something and two of the wires go to a relay. Anyone have knowledge of what this might have been?
Problem I have here is I can't find the underhood decal. Does anyone know the amount required for a 96?
Also does anyone know which compressor GM uses on this vehicle?
The claims are improved cooling in stop and go traffic, lower compressor load at such conditions, lower emissions (better fuel economy), and extended compressor life.
I presume that the 96 would not have implemented this device. Has anyone done the conversion?
Still would like to find a cheap set of manuals or CD's.
I have wondered if this system is the same as the Caddy ATC? If so, I haven't been able to get it to read out the codes by pressing off and temp increase simultaneously. But it does appear to use the temperature sensing clutch cycling switch versus the low pressure switch commonly employed.
Comments and help needed.
what a MISTER hammen?
Maybe that is what is in the switch and with time it has spread to undesireable areas. As to the contact cleaners (aerosol) some have chemicals designed to remove corrosion from contacts and simultaneously lubricate. I suspect in this case you want it non-conductive. And with that application and simultaneously turning the switch rapidly back and forth it suddenly stopped acting up. Note switch has to be in off position to know.
I noticed the contacts of the relay appeared blackened. This might also be a silver contact and a little oxidation there as well so I sprayed them too.
I didn't bother with the air because this cleaner was highly evaporative. I recommend caution when first starting the use of the cleaner. Some have solvents which might melt the plastic housing or other components. Definitely test carefully before flooding.
Just checked, still behaving itself, so maybe back to the A/C.
Other than my dad (joke), a "mister" is a spray bottle set to mist, rather than spray a jet... you just want to get a little water on the plug wires when the car is running, to see if there is any sparking (if so, wires are toast).
--Robert
I now have to question how to get to the blend door as well as the evaporator? And how do I check them?
StickKing are you around?
1. With the ignition on, press the Select right arrow button on the DIC to OIL so the OIL LIFE percentage is displayed.
2. Press Reset and hold for five seconds. OIL LIFE XXX% will appear and when the button is released OIL LIFE 100% will be displayed.
I'll try your suggestion.
Thanks a lot