I have a 1996 Olds Aurora and I seem to be having a problem with the fans on the radiator. They are only coming on only when the a/c is running and shutting off when I shut off the a/c. Also I am having a second issue with the twilight switch, all I have to do is lightly tap on the instrument panel where its located and the headlight and twilight lights go on and off. The shop working on my car told me I would have to take it to someone who works on the electricial systems of the car. Is anyone having or have had these issues befor? I really need help. I go over bumps and I have no headlights. Its scarey.... Thank you for reading this post. Kara
The fan operation you describe is correct up to coolant temperature of 229 degrees F. or transaxle fluid temp up to 302 degrees F. When one or both of those temps are reached, the powertrain control module (PCM) turns the fans on low speed. As you have observed, AC being on also engages the fans. If coolant temp reaches 234 degrees or transaxle fluid 304 degrees, the PCM turns the fans on high speed. That's the way the car is designed. I would have the fans come on at a much lower temp. This information comes from my 1997 service manual. I imagine other year Classics are the same.
Several people have added a switch to turn the fans on manually.
BTW, the service manual contains a discrepancy between the written text and the electrical schematic; I believe the schematic is correct. The mistake is describing one fan as low-speed and the other as high-speed. That is the way my '86 Toronado worked. On my Aurora both fans operate at either low speed or high speed.
Probably much more than you wanted to know about fans.
Finally replaced my FPR. First thing I have done to it since the rear shocks. Both have been very easy. I think the throttle body needs to be cleaned.....how much do you think a dealership should charge for that and a tranny fluid drain/flush/replace?
Tranny service is close to $200. Parts kit for the trans flush is close to $100. Just had this done for the second time (51k, 95k) before putting the car away in storage until October...
I recently got a 96 aurora. the battery was almost dead, so the sound system locked itself. Although, I have the unlock code but I dunno where to plug it in.
I am tired of looking at the owner's group and seeing problems and solutions as the board with the most postings. Our cars are NOT falling apart. I think we should start a new thread in the Owner's Group. The "Good News about My Aurora" thread.
Thank you so much for the help!!! Here is the verdict on the Aurora... I was loosing oil pressure and not only was it coming up on the screen, but also I was getting a coolant warning as well...... $6300 dollars later a new engine and belts, hoses, water pump and so on. I will get my car finished. Next will be those fans. The shop like I said does not do electrical work so I have to tow it down the street to get the other things taken care of. I love my car so much, to me its all been worth it. I want a good running car and relieable but will this cost ever end. It seems lately that I am spending so much on this car and driving it so little. Do you happen to know how much an electrical shop will charge me to get these issues resolved? Since I am a woman, sometimes I feel they dont tell me everything. Funny thing is I'm a technician and I know more then they realize. I just dont want to get taken in expenses. I did my homework on the engine and labor on that, and it was very reasonable. As far as electrical work, nobody wants to give you a figure. Makes me skeptical. Well mainly I just wanted to say thank you again on the info. My mechanic says the temps for it are right in the computer, but for some reason it still wont kick the fans on. Think it may be a wiring issue. HUMMMMM, makes one wonder?????? Thank you Les,
Somewhere, I read something about modifying the air cleaner box, for better airflow. Anyone know the procedure, or where to get the instructions? :confuse:
I have been looking on ebay for weeks with no luck. Thanks for the input, I will keep looking there. I also spent the weekend junk yarding it and no luck there either.
I asked because you had never specifically stated that that was your problem. Since the fans come on with A/C, that indicates fans, wiring, fuses, relays, and signal from the PCM are OK.
How do you know that the coolant temp is over 229?
If you want to reset your computer for your 95 Aurora you just need a wrench.
Take out the back seat, loosen the positive (red) battery connection let the car sit "dead" for a minute. Tighten back up and your codes will be reset.
I used this method for about a year when I didn't have money to fix my "hard shifting problem" I found that if you reset the pc your car will not shift hard for a good week or 2.
"Take out the back seat, loosen the positive (red) battery connection let the car sit "dead" for a minute."
NEVER disconnect the positive cable while the negative is attached. Always disconnect the negative first and re-connect it last unless you want a face full of sulphuric acid and little bits of battery. If a wrench on the positive terminal contacts any ground point while the negative is attached, you've created a dead short to ground.
Well I have my sound system attached to the battery so I have an extra bolt there and I found when I loosened the bolt the car will shut down.
Unless I''m confusing the negative and positive wires I've done this about 100 times.... Maybe I was explaining it wrong because I haven't had any problems with acid in my eye yet.
How do you remove the rear seat? I couldn't find any bolts for it. I am sure I was looking in the wrong place. It's a 97 Aurora and any opinions and or suggestions would be appreciated on a Battery. Thanks Oldswrench
From memory, I think you kind of pull "forward" on the seat bottom (from the front of the seat), and then pull up once it moves forward an inch or two.
Yea I went back out and gave it a closer look and a firmer yank and out she came!!! But thanks anyway. I thought that I had a battery problem as in replacement, but it was just loose cables and the white vent pipe is broken, and the short one is missing. Any thoughts on that? Oldswrench
Definitely replace the vent tubes... I've "heard" stories of Aurora fires/explosions caused by the battery gases building up from unvented batteries... Javi, didn't you meet someone who had that experience?
Now I have a real question. With the batttery problem solved I would like to learn more about the headlights!!! I have already taken care of the daylight running lights, now I want to take care of the situation where the headlights come on automatically whether you like it or not. I wonder why the thing even has a headlight switch on it, it doesent do a damn thing. This is very annoying anyone figured out how to take control of the headlights back and make the switch work as it once did on the older cars? IE off really means off! Some times I would lik e just the parking/running lights and fog lights on!! Oldswrench
I am trying to find out what these codes mean and if there is any solution. These codes are coming up randomly when I put a CD in and even less often when a CD has been in for some time. Anyone else ever have this problem either? I would believe that it would be due to overheating however when it does it when I have just started the car it leads me to believe that this is not the case.
This sounds dumb, but it could be the EGR Valve. Mine did that and when we replaced it, it ran like it was brand new. Didn`t know if you checked that out. My computer never picked up on it, but someone told me that could be the problem and it was. aurora1999
Mine is a 97 as well and I have tried to turn off the sentinal. I guess the sentinal switch could be bad? What do you think, I will definetly check it out. Oldswrench
Well on my 95' there are the 2 switches on the left side of the steering wheel. One is for indoor lights and the other is for the headlights. If you turn them all the way down until they "click" the headlights go off for me. Not sure if the 97 is different though.
I have and 98 Aurora with 88,000 miles. I have never had any problems with it until recently. My service engine light came on and while driving the car would just shut down. However, I would put it in neutral and it would start right up, as I drove it continued to shut down. I took it to my mechanic who indicated that it was the mass airflow sensor, so he replaced it. That was in May and a month later the same thing occurred. This time the mechanic said there was about 21 codes take it to the dealer who said it was the crank sensor or mass airflow sensor. So the dealer fixed the crank sensor. Well, the car doesnt shut off but the service engine light came back on about 10 miles after picking it up from the dealer. Called the dealer and they said it is from the work they did but from independent mechanic who I took my car too (no surprise)! Has anyone had this happen? What is the problem? HELP!
Sometimes when I start my '98 Aurora, it runs rough. Then as I drive the check engine light comes on and flashes. Took it in, they said there was nothing in the memory of the computer that the light had been on, but cleaned fuel injectors from my description of the problem. Everything was fine for atleast a month and now is happening again. (He also said that there is no such thing as "bad gas" anymore because of what the fuel tanks are made out of) The manual has that as a possiblity of the problem for a flashing check engine light. Anyone had this problem?
IIRC a flashing "check engine" light is a serious problem, and you're not supposed to drive when this happens. My wife's new Envoy was running rough (i.e. idling at a stoplight) - complained to the dealer's service manager, who said "my wife has one, they all do that". One month later, the car started running REALLY rough - way reduced power (couldn't go over 40 mph), and then the check engine light came on and began flashing. Turned out to be a cracked spark plug.
Have you done plugs and wires on your car? How many miles? If you want to test the wires, fill spray bottle with water. Pop the hood, start the car, then spray over the wires - if you get a fireworks show, it's time to change them (and ONLY use AC Delco plugs and wires - you will have problems with third-party ones on a Northstar). Might also be a coil pack. Any other maintenance you have or haven't done? Fuel Pressure Regulator would cause problems at startup (hard starts, lots of cranking), but probably not when running. Might want to get some throttle body cleaner (do NOT use carb cleaner) and clean out the butterfly on the throttle body.
The answer is the in the DTC's (diagnostic trouble codes). Go to AutoZone, if you have one, and they can read the codes - that will help determine the problem. The CEL can come on if you have a loose or defective gas cap - no way to pinpoint this further (since the car is running) without further detail...
There is about 86,000 miles on the car. Never changed spark plugs and wires. Never really had another other problems with the car. It starts right up, just rough running sometimes. I follow manual instructions when it happens, pull over wait 10 seconds re-start, also try replacing gas cap. Sometimes it does it again, sometimes not. Will check the spark plugs, though. Thanks!
Your '98 is probably between 7 and 8 years old. With 86k on it, you very likely need plugs and wires badly (changed mine almost a year and a half ago, around 72k miles - ditto on my mother-in-law's car). Hope you haven't fried a coil pack, either - run long enough with bad plugs and wires and you will need to replace one or more of 'em...
I am looking into purchasing a 2001 Aurora and I heard that they might have possible engine and tranny trouble. And the mechanic I talked to said it is like $2000 for a new motor?
Anyone with any negative or positive information about the 2001 Olds Aurora 4.0 let me know!!
Just had to have my 97 towed to mechanics that explained that after attempting to do a radiator flush (all gummed up--low coolant light warning), that the intake gasket was blown. It only gets worse from here...now I'm paying $1,000.00+ to replace 2 blown head gaskets and no car for over a week now. My car is great, I love my car...98000 mi now and no other problems. I had added water to my green coolant and after a few months saw how gummed up it had become and took it to one of those quick oil change business for a quick rad.flush and bam! Anyone else ever have that happen?
Why did your '97 have green coolant in it? It would have come with the orange DexCool from the factory.
If you didn't have the engine professionally flushed, and added green coolant, it's very possible this is what sludged up your engine. Green and orange coolants don't mix - they turn into a sludgy, slimy mess.
And, your car came with DexCool for a reason - the green stuff is particularly corrosive to aluminum - which is what our engines are made from. Lots of head and head-gasket issues on early Caddy STSes and the first year Aurora, until they switched to DexCool sometime in the 1996 model year.
DexCool ain't all great shakes (I personally get it flushed every couple of years) - see some of the 3800 plastic intake issues with other cars. But, at least on our cars, I wouldn't run anything else.
also if u didn't know a car with aluminum headers overheats at like 240 and any higher ur at high risk of mealting the headers as i belive u learned. jest thought i make sure u know when the car will mealt away incase ur coolent probles dont get fixed rigthaway. good luck!
I am trying to find out if there is any solution to these codes.They wont stop coming up randomly when I put a CD in right as i start the car, in mid trip, basicly whenever. Sometimes if i try repeatly it will work sometimes. Other time i try for like 10 mins then get pissed and give up. Anyone else ever have this problem either? Also its not my cds they all work fine in most other cd players!!! Plz help in my car the cd is king and the radio sux!!!!!!!!!
I'm guessing it's either a dirty lens or an alignment problem. Three options:
1) http://www.car-part.com, or your local junkyard, or eBay to look for another 2) Send it to CorvetteRadios.com for repair 3) Take it apart and try to fix it yourself
Comments
The fan operation you describe is correct up to coolant temperature of 229 degrees F. or transaxle fluid temp up to 302 degrees F. When one or both of those temps are reached, the powertrain control module (PCM) turns the fans on low speed. As you have observed, AC being on also engages the fans. If coolant temp reaches 234 degrees or transaxle fluid 304 degrees, the PCM turns the fans on high speed. That's the way the car is designed. I would have the fans come on at a much lower temp. This information comes from my 1997 service manual. I imagine other year Classics are the same.
Several people have added a switch to turn the fans on manually.
BTW, the service manual contains a discrepancy between the written text and the electrical schematic; I believe the schematic is correct. The mistake is describing one fan as low-speed and the other as high-speed. That is the way my '86 Toronado worked. On my Aurora both fans operate at either low speed or high speed.
Probably much more than you wanted to know about fans.
Les
Both have been very easy. I think the throttle body needs to be cleaned.....how much do you think a dealership should charge for that and a tranny fluid drain/flush/replace?
--Robert
IS EVERYBODY WITH ME!!!!!
Thank you so much for the help!!! Here is the verdict on the Aurora... I was loosing oil pressure and not only was it coming up on the screen, but also I was getting a coolant warning as well...... $6300 dollars later a new engine and belts, hoses, water pump and so on. I will get my car finished. Next will be those fans. The shop like I said does not do electrical work so I have to tow it down the street to get the other things taken care of. I love my car so much, to me its all been worth it. I want a good running car and relieable but will this cost ever end. It seems lately that I am spending so much on this car and driving it so little. Do you happen to know how much an electrical shop will charge me to get these issues resolved? Since I am a woman, sometimes I feel they dont tell me everything. Funny thing is I'm a technician and I know more then they realize. I just dont want to get taken in expenses. I did my homework on the engine and labor on that, and it was very reasonable. As far as electrical work, nobody wants to give you a figure. Makes me skeptical. Well mainly I just wanted to say thank you again on the info. My mechanic says the temps for it are right in the computer, but for some reason it still wont kick the fans on. Think it may be a wiring issue. HUMMMMM, makes one wonder?????? Thank you Les,
Kara
Are you saying that coolant temp goes over 229 and fans do not come on?
Les
Yes it was going over that temp and no fans coming on till I turned the a/c on. Why?
Kara
I think you can find most of those parts that your looking for on eBay.
I would look there first, just type in the search bar "Oldsmobile Aurora".
Javi
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/225739
I have been looking on ebay for weeks with no luck.
Thanks,
Kara
I asked because you had never specifically stated that that was your problem. Since the fans come on with A/C, that indicates fans, wiring, fuses, relays, and signal from the PCM are OK.
How do you know that the coolant temp is over 229?
Les
http://www.car-part.com
Hope this helps,
--Robert
Kara
Take out the back seat, loosen the positive (red) battery connection let the car sit "dead" for a minute. Tighten back up and your codes will be reset.
I used this method for about a year when I didn't have money to fix my "hard shifting problem"
I found that if you reset the pc your car will not shift hard for a good week or 2.
NEVER disconnect the positive cable while the negative is attached. Always disconnect the negative first and re-connect it last unless you want a face full of sulphuric acid and little bits of battery. If a wrench on the positive terminal contacts any ground point while the negative is attached, you've created a dead short to ground.
Unless I''m confusing the negative and positive wires I've done this about 100 times.... Maybe I was explaining it wrong because I haven't had any problems with acid in my eye yet.
Thanks
Oldswrench
--Robert
Oldswrench
--Robert
Oldswrench
aurora1999
Oldswrench
The next time I started my car, it just ejected out on its own. Anyone have a similar problem, and how do I fix it?
ps - when it does eject them, they are SMOKIN hot.
http://www.corvetteradios.com/TroublesShooting.html
Has anyone had this happen? What is the problem? HELP!
Have you done plugs and wires on your car? How many miles? If you want to test the wires, fill spray bottle with water. Pop the hood, start the car, then spray over the wires - if you get a fireworks show, it's time to change them (and ONLY use AC Delco plugs and wires - you will have problems with third-party ones on a Northstar). Might also be a coil pack. Any other maintenance you have or haven't done? Fuel Pressure Regulator would cause problems at startup (hard starts, lots of cranking), but probably not when running. Might want to get some throttle body cleaner (do NOT use carb cleaner) and clean out the butterfly on the throttle body.
Just some thoughts,
--Robert
--Robert
Starter? Battery? PASS-KEY security system (tried the other key, if you have 2)?
--Robert
--Robert
Anyone with any negative or positive information about the 2001 Olds Aurora 4.0 let me know!!
M. Colvin
Anyone else ever have that happen?
If you didn't have the engine professionally flushed, and added green coolant, it's very possible this is what sludged up your engine. Green and orange coolants don't mix - they turn into a sludgy, slimy mess.
And, your car came with DexCool for a reason - the green stuff is particularly corrosive to aluminum - which is what our engines are made from. Lots of head and head-gasket issues on early Caddy STSes and the first year Aurora, until they switched to DexCool sometime in the 1996 model year.
DexCool ain't all great shakes (I personally get it flushed every couple of years) - see some of the 3800 plastic intake issues with other cars. But, at least on our cars, I wouldn't run anything else.
FYI,
--Robert
1) http://www.car-part.com, or your local junkyard, or eBay to look for another
2) Send it to CorvetteRadios.com for repair
3) Take it apart and try to fix it yourself
Sorry,
--Robert