Oldsmobile Aurora Maintenance & Repair

Henry

" . . .killed in this heap."

Heap? HEap?? HEAp??? HEAP???!!!!

I know you didn't just call aROARa a . . . a . . .

H--E--A--P.

Henry

Time for the PAT POLICE to chime in with a warning. I am SURE the term "heap" when applied to Aurora is a violation of the TOS agreement.

frs64

Oh great! Now I have to tell my wife I bought her a heap.

alcan

Start here:

http://www.timesert.com/

fasteddie50

ive been having this problem for a while now and im just too stubborn and frugal to take it to the dealership for fear of the cost...in warm temps.(above 50 degrees...my parking and headlight breaks flick on and off....or stay on until the battery is dead...also, there is a buzzing sound intermittently inside the car at the same time.....i have disconnected the fuses inside and disconnected the fuse for the headlights under the backseat...but this of course keeps the battery from going dead but i cannot drive at night.....what is causing this and how much is it going to cost to fix????....also lovre this message center...THANKS A LOT!!!

blk97aurora

You don't mention year of your Aurora. If it is a Classic (and maybe 2001+, too), your description reads like the fairly common multifunction (turn signal, highbeam switch, cruise) switch problem. Check the archives. Dealer replaced the one on my '97 under warranty. The part is ~$400 MSRP plus labor. I experienced a lot of clicking, but not buzzing. I, too, found the right fuses to pull under the rear seat. Mine was intermittent, and I was lucky enough to have it happen when the service manager was present.

Several people have reported that the problem is caused by too much grease in the switch, and that the problem can be fixed by removing the excess grease. Good luck.

Les

stevejobdig

My 1996 Aurora has almost 160k and runs great, but the last two mornings I've noticed a blue cloud of smoke when I first start out. It must be burning oil, but only after starting cold. Once I am down the road a mile or so, there is no smoking. Is there an additive out there that could help?

fasteddie50

thanks for the reply...the year of my Aurora is a 96. It has a little over 100k miles on it

rjs200240

I think it's been discussed here that this car is a pain because of the OBD-I capability, but OBD-II connector. This place (and possibly others) sells something that will work:

http://www.obd2.com/personal/personal_gmobdi.htm

2k1olds

The grinding you hear is caused by by a power steering hose that is too short in length. There is a TSB on it, check those out. The fix is a longer power steering hose. Not too expensive to fix. We'll forget this time that you called your Aurora a heap. But don't ever call it that again on this board!

blk97aurora

The condition you describe is typically caused by worn valve guides and seals. My '97 with 118,000 miles does not have this problem (yet?). I will relate my experience with an '86 Fiero V6; the engines are considerably different, so I do not know if this will apply to Northstars or not. My Fiero with 95,000 miles was smoking on start-up as you describe. I switched to Mobil 1 synthetic for reasons not at all related to the smoking. To my great surprise, the smoking on start-up ended. I read later that it could have been because the synthetic oil caused the seals to swell a bit and therefore not allow oil to flow down the valve stems and into the cylinders.

Les

sda

Doesn't it seem things happen in a series of threes? In my case, this has happened like clockwork. In the past 6 weeks, I have had three trips to various garages for unexpected repairs or replacements. First, my transaxle is replaced and the intake plenum is repaired. Second, after thinking all is well, the water pump fails, and an emissions air pump burns up and is replaced, along with the wiring connector that leads up to it. A week later, sigh, I notice a low tire which ends up being a nail stuck in the sidewall of my left front tire. Since the tire was 50% worn, I opted to replace the front pair. I know my 01 4.0 came originally with Michelins, but when I bought it (used) it had a new set of Goodyear Eagle LS's. Not fully satisfied with these (I could never get a true balance out of them, they always vibrated over 67mph), I opted to replace them with the o.e. Michelin MXV Energy Plus. Oh, what a difference. Even though I only have 2 on the front, the improvement in ride is remarkable. I can hardly wait until I replace the rear set. But at $370 pair, I can wait.

rjs200240

What happened to your tranny and intake manifold?

stevejobdig

Thanks blk97aurora. I'll give that a try on the next oil change.

sinatra2

before you go to the expense of a new switch.try spraying electical contact cleaner in the rotary part of the switch. This is accessable by carefully pulling back the rubber cover and pointing the spray extention inside.. you should notice about 6 contacts fanned out in half a circle.spray on those while rotating the switch back and forth

fudgecake

I need help with the DIC on my 98 aurora, the display screen is blank. The bell is ringing to alert me of a problem, but I can't see what it is. The electronic climate control lights are off too, AUTO-PUSH, AUTO-FAN

chasj

Recently purchased a 1992 Oldsmobile Achieva for my son, knowing it leaked water onto the driver's side floor after a heavy rain. Thought we would be able to trace the problem to its source but have not been able to track it. Removed the vent grille at the base of the windshield and looked for any possible entry points that we could seal. Couldn't visually spot an area where water could get through. Would appreciate any advice from someone who's had a similar problem. Other 1992 GM cars such as Grand AMs, or a comparable Buick model could have the same problem, so if you've had a similar problem with these cars, I would appreciate any advice you could share.
Thanks

rjs200240

This is an Aurora forum, not an Achieva forum. If the car has a sunroof, check that the drain line works properly. Also, search around here for the appropriate forum. Edmund's has forums that cover a lot of makes, I'm sure there's one more appropriate.

javidogg

I would say start by checking all the fuses in the Aurora.

sda

Check engine light came on. Went to Autozone where they plugged in the OBD scanner. Indicated right bank running lean...Autozone said it was an oxygen sensor $125. Since I had an extended warranty that covered oxygen sensor(s), I took it to the Cadillac dealer that has done all the service on the car. (Also used to be an Olds/Cad dealer). Coincidentally, I noticed the transaxle felt a bit funny when I came to a stop. Felt like driving a manual transmission, ie. as you get close to a stop and forget to push in the clutch, the car starts to push and shudder. Well, I felt a shudder, and then a release. I thought nothing of it really, thinking it was tied in with the computer and electronics, and assuming the oxygen sensor was bad, the car was not getting a good read...and therefore not running as it should. They said I had two problems. One the lock up mechanism was failing on the transaxle, and could be repaired. Second, the check engine light was not because of an oxygen sensor, but because the plenum had a small hole in it. He said they have seen very few with this problem. Anyhow, extended warranty co did not want to repair, but replace with a rebuilt unit from an unknown source. They also gave me the option to pay the difference if I wanted a GM certified unit. It opted for that, and it came with a 3yr/50k warranty. Shifts/performs as new. Side note: I did have the trans fluid serviced (exchange) at 58K. Failed at 71k.

philguy

Hi, everyone. A couple of days ago, my running lights on my 97 Aurora refused to turn off, and the "lights on" beeping wouldn't stop when I opened the driver's door to get out. I've taken out the two fuses to turn out the lights for now. Has anyone encountered this before? I can't get them to turn off. I'm thinking the switch for the lights (on the turn signal) indicator is shorting, or a relay has broken or something. Any ideas?

ibtiggs

The Driver's power seat in my '95 has stopped working. Actually, the forward/back, up/down has. The recline still works, as does the memory function. The passenger side works fine. Anyone have any ideas?

ibtiggs

What the heck is an "Autobahn package"? How do I tell if I have it? If I don't, how do I get it?

hammen2

The wires going from the door through the strain relief to the chassis are a very thin gauge, and don't take the stress of repeated openings/closings. Since you indicated that the seat does move if the memory buttons are pressed, the motors are working/this is very likely the problem. Need to take the door panel off and run new wiring from the switch through the door...

--Robert

hammen2

The Autobahn package offers a 3.71 gear instead of the standard 3.48. This provides for more power/faster acceleration, but slightly less (1-2 mpg) gas mileage. Autobahn-equipped cars have no speed limiter. If you look for the RPO build sheet (usually in the trunk, either on the spare tire cover, or maybe the trunk lid) look for option code QQX which would indicate Z-rated (149+ mph) tires.

--Robert

hammen2

Lots of weird problems with the multifunction switch (turn stalk, headlights, cruise control) caused by too much grease. I'd start by cleaning this switch - ther's a procedure documented here somewhere (or Google for "Aurora multifunction switch"). I'd start there.

--Robert

march94aurora

Try here for multifunction switch cleaning procedure. I know first hand it works to cure flashing headlamps but not sure about lamps stuck on and steadily lit. Definitely worth a try.

http://www.howardm.net/dred98/underhood.php

Paul (march94aurora aka thumpin455)

95mushroom

There is a limiter at 140 mph (from experience) and option calls for V-rated tires not Z.

knowido

help me on this if u can , but MY problem is i notice i have a LOTof oil under the intake (pasenger side ) tell me thats not a head or something is there a oil sendin unit in there or maybe the devil,put it there,,;like a half quart ,,,,oh i have a 95 with autobahn ,runs like new 95000 on it

fasteddie50

where is the switch your talking about located?...and how do i get to it??.....this is really getting to be a nuisance....taking out the fuse for the headlight means taking out the back seat every time i want to turn on the headlights.....can only drive the car in the daytime!!!..

hammen2

If you're talking about the multi-function switch, it's the turn stalk/headlight switch/cruise control just to the left of the steering wheel... follow the link a few posts up to the page that describes the complete disassembly, cleaning, and reassembly procedure.

--Robert

mr_n8

I've read a lot of the posts here, and it seems like I may be experiencing the ever so popular Pass-Key failure. My car used to not start about 1 in 15 times, and then I would get the "clean key - wait 3 minutes" message. Now it's about 1 in 4 times that it actually starts. OK, so now for the questions:

1. Can the ignition switch be replaced by me? Yes, I've done it in other cars, but since it has that Pass-Key system, I'm worried that it won't start again with a different ingition switch.

2. How much does it cost to have a dealer repair this?

3. Could a locksmith or a mechanic do this job for a better price?

Thanks for the help.

soxfan32

Did you ever figure out what this was. I have a 96 and it is doing the same thing.

Thanks,

Len

ibtiggs

Thanks for the info... anyone know where to get a wiring diagram to tell me what I am looking at? The recline function still works, but nothing else. I would also like to diagnose the heater in my (drivers) seat, as it doesn't work either. Funny, passenger controls all work (including heat), but I guess that is because it isn't used as much...

ibtiggs

Has anyone ever had a problem with the trans stumbling when shifting into 2nd at WOT? I tried selecting 2 leaving the lights, and when the car shifted into 2nd, It stumbled so badly, it almost stalled! It recovered, and started pulling again, but for a moment, I thought I had a real problem!!
Anyone with advice (other than don't put you foot into it anymore, because THAT ain't gonna happen), would be greatly appreciated
-Jeff

hammen2

Best option would be the official service manuals.... $135 from Helm Inc. (http://www.helminc.com). Or check eBay for used manuals for your year... there's also some guy selling GM Service CDs on eBay for less than that (they cover a wide varietty of GM vehicles)...

You probably don't open the passenger door as frequently, hence those wires are fine whereas the driver door ones have flexed many more times...

--Robert

hammen2

What year is your Aurora? There's a known issue with shift solenoids on the '95's and most of the '96's...

stainer

Where is the bank one sensor one oxygen sensor located and where can I buy the lease expensive sensor?

blk97aurora

You mention neither year nor engine of your Aurora. On my '97 sensor 1 bank 1 is in the exhaust manifold near the firewall. Sensor 1 bank 2 is in the exhaust manifold at the front of the engine compartment. For Auroras that have four sensors, sensor 2 bank 1 is upstream from the catalytic converter and sensor 3 bank 1 is downstream.

I recommend you use only ACDelco replacement parts; you will hear the same advice from others on this board. Try RockAuto.com and GMPartsDirect.com; I have no affiliation with either except as a satisfied customer.

Les

stainer

Thanks, I happen to have a black 97 aurora. Every time I replace one it goes out in a
few months. So I decided I will try and change it myself, many advice? Seems like bank1 sensor 1 is the hardest to get to.

blk97aurora

Interesting. My black '97 has 119,000 miles; I replaced the bank 2 oxygen sensor last year when I replaced the radiator -- very simple (with the radiator and a/c condenser out of the way) and needed only an open end wrench for the job. The other three have been in place since 37,000 miles when I bought the car. I intermittently get a pending code P0135, which is bank 1 sensor 1, but I have not replaced that one yet. I don't know how difficult it will be to get to and whether or not it will require one of those special sockets.

What brand sensors have been lasting only a few months?

ibtiggs

It is a 1995, with autobahn, and about 185,000 k (111000 miles).
-Jeff

hammen2

You most definitely have the shift solenoid issue. Not sure how comfortable you are doing the repairs yourself - some have done so, if you are reasonably mechanically inclined - otherwise it's about a $400-$500 repair. Any knowledgeable Caddy service department should know what you are talking about/can get the kit (this is a common problem on '93-'96 cars equipped with the 4T80E automatic tranny... I believe the revised shift kit contains a metal part, whereas the tranny used a plastic part from the factory - part was changed midway through the '96 model year).

Sorry I can't point you with more specific links right now... must get back to work (nose to the grindstone)...

--Robert

hammen2

From another site - the text below is NOT from me:

Bulletin No.: 77-71-73

A/T - Revised Serviceability of 1-2/2-3 Shift Solenoids

Date: January, 1998

INFORMATION

Subject: Service Availability of 1-2 and 2-3 Shift Solenoids

Models:
1993 Cadillac Allante
1993-98 Cadillac Eldorado, Seville
1994-98 Cadillac Concours
1996-98 Cadillac DeVille
1997-98 Cadillac d'Elegance
1995-98 Oldsmobile Aurora
with HYDRA-MATIC 4T80-E Transaxle (RPO MH1) and with 4.0L, 4.6L Engine (VINs C, Y, 9 - RPOs L47, LD8, L37)

During the 1996 Model Year, transaxle Julian date 047, a new 1-2, 2-3 shift solenoid assembly, and a pressure control solenoid valve fluid filter retainer, were implemented on the 4T80-E transaxle.

All transaxles with a Julian date prior to 1996, 047 must be serviced with a service kit - 1-2/2-3 shift solenoid valves, which is available at GMSPO. This kit, P/N 24211355, contains the 1-2, 2-3 shift solenoid valves, the pressure control solenoid valve filter, the pressure control solenoid valve fluid filter retainer and the bolt to hold the retainer to the lower control valve body. All components in this kit must be used when servicing these transaxles.

1996 transaxles with a Julian date after 047, and 1997 through 1998 transaxles, should be serviced with individual components.

a) the job is a mess, be prepared.
b) drop the pan, and careful remove the tranny gasket, it is re-usable. Once you clean the pan, you can reset it with gasket sealer.
c) disconnect the solenoid electrical connectors and the mechanical linkage. The linkage has a metal clip you lift and slide.
d) remove the valve body screws, and drop the valve body.
e) place the valve body where you can afford a mess, it will continually leak. Best thing is to set it on cardboard on a bench. There is a valve spool that can be removed as well, careful it can slip out, you don't want to damage it.
f) remove the two clips holding the solenoids, careful they are spring-loaded and will fly
g) remove the screws holding the "large" portion of the valve body split, this is where the solenoids are encased. Remember the screw locations, there are about four different screw lengths
h) CAREFULLY remove split, there are 4 steel check balls loose inside the split (about 1/4" diameter, they will fly, as well)
i) inspect spacer plate, if the black coating is not chipping off you can re-use it, otherwise plan on spending another $ 70 at the dealership parts house. If you replace it you will have to remove the "smaller" split, as well. It also has three check balls.
j) replace the solenoids
k) now comes the fun,....you will note three holes in the spacer plate where three of the check balls reside, seat them there (appr. 3/16" diameter with a smaller relief hole next to it, as I remember). The fourth check ball will need to be inserted in a spherically-cast cavity which is near one the solenoids. You can set it with grease, I re-assembled successfully without using grease.
l) re-assemble valve body, carefully and equally torque.
m) you will note a square black plastic item near one of the solenoids, on the end. Replace this plastic filter with the new filter in the solenoid kit. The kit will also come with an L-shaped bracket that is to be used to "capture" this filter and keep it from backing out. The kit also comes with a slightly longer screw used to mount the bracket to the valve body (discard the old screw).
m) re-assemble valve body to transmission, hook up linkage and electrical connectors
n) replace both tranny filters
o) replenish fluid
p) reset codes

omalley

I have a 1995 Aurora with 150,000 miles on it. Yesterday it just stopped in the middle of the road. I cranked it many times and no start, it did not even come close most times. twice out of 40 times is started but it was ideling very slow, When I hit the gas it died. Later in the day (after the flat bed) I changed the fuel filter, the plugs and the wires. The car still just turned over. For some reason it started this am on the 10th try, ran around the block great turned on and off properly, then it started cranking again... thats where we are now. I have read about the FPR as a possibility. Could a fuel pump cause this problem? could it be a problem with the spark?

alfordtl

I have a 1995 Olds Aurora with a problem with the dash lights not working with the lights on. They also go off with the fog lights on. Any solutions would be appreciated.

hammen2

Could be the fuel pump... Henri had his die in, what was it, the Holland Tunnel?

FPR would be long crank-crank-crank starts (especially on warm starts)... probably a good preventative maintenance change, since it's easy and fairly inexpensive...

--Robert

omalley

Where is the fuel pump actually located in this vehicle ( 1995 Aurora )? Is there any way to trouble shoot the fuel pump. I have tried to locate a repair manual for this vehical but there does not seem to be one....any ideas?

Question on the long crank with a bad FPR, how long is a long crank, I never cranked more then 3 or 4 seconds.

Rob

blk97aurora

Fuel pump is inside the fuel tank. Access is through a removeable panel in the trunk just behind the rear seat (or drop the tank). I would not have been able to replace my fuel pump without the lock nut wrench tool (Kent-Moore J-39765).

Factory service manuals are available from Helm (www.helminc.com); also try eBay.

If your FPR is leaking, there will be fuel in the flexible tube that runs from the FPR to the intake manifold. That's what causes the engine to flood and to be hard to start.

Good luck.

Les

hammen2

Hey, this statement reminds me:

I would not have been able to replace my fuel pump without the lock nut wrench tool (Kent-Moore J-39765)

What Aurora-specific tools have shadetree mechanics had to buy? I know about the water pump removal tool, and now this one for replacing the fuel pump. Anything else Aurora-specific that I should get? Now that Olds is gone, I have the service manuals and want to get any specific tools that I need.

My Aurora goes into storage for the summer on Friday of this week :-(. I've been spending time detailing and prepping the car, inside and out. Still looks/shines/smells great. It'll ride great once I replace the shocks and struts in the fall (every time I hit a significant bump I can feel the car shudder sideways a little bit, so I know it's time)...

--Robert